Timmy! You should totally do a 3rd gen, specifically 01-02, auto transmission conversion to a manual transmission. Specifically to get an awesome 5 speed, as well as getting rid of the terrible P0770 CEL code. I’d be willing to have you use my truck if you need one. I can hit the junkyard and get a manual Tranny and all the needed parts. I think the wiring harness is needed.
Good video, I've locked the rear diff on my 99 Highlander-4Runner three times in the last 21 years. Once in the lot prior to delivery and twice over the years just to see if it still works, it still works. Overriding the
Hey Tim, I just purchased another 3rd gen. A 2001 Limited with 377,000 miles! Everything works great except the brakes. The abs system is not functioning(bad abs pump) if you ever get a chance to do a video on the master cylinder/abs module replacement that would be great!
What were the symptoms? My friend has a 2000 Tacoma with the abs light on, we tried swapping one of the wheel speed sensors to no avail. We jumped the diagnostic port under the hood, got a bunch of codes from counting the abs light flashing (wheel speed sensors, deceleration sensor circuit, stop light switch circuit), leading me to be believe that the issue may be the abs ecu because it’s unlikely to be all of those issues at once.. however, the ecu is a little pricey to risk buying the part to find out that it wasn’t the issue..
Thanks! We're glad you like the video and it's good to hear you're learning a lot from us. Sean and I are learning all the time as well by making these videos. That's a big part of what makes this adventure fun, challenging and rewarding. Thanks for taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!
Thanks for all the videos Timmy! I recently picked up a clean 99 5 speed 4runner with the e locker and was transferring some parts over from my 1997 4runner. The E-locker on the 97 worked but the locker wasn’t engaging on the 99. I went through a full day of diagnosing and troubleshooting and I can’t figure out what my issue is. Both actuators and 4wd ECUs are good, the wiring looks good. On the 97 when I engage the rear E-locker the light flashes and I hear a clicking sound from under the hood (around where the abs module is) and the abs light comes on as it should. In the 99 I hear no such sound and the abs light doesn’t come on. Just to be clear I tested both the actuators/4wd ecu’s by putting them on the 97 and confirming the work. Where do you suggest I go from here?
Have you confirmed it's actually not engaging on your 99? Did you lift up the rear end and confirm the rear wheels don't turn together in the same direction? Where is your switch getting it's power from? In the video we did for the E-Locker Swap, the switch gets it's power from a fuse tap. Take a look at this video th-cam.com/video/qAznG_WoS44/w-d-xo.html and look at this wiring diagram that we link in the video description: drive.google.com/file/d/1Gi7fRSslBFb79xx1eD8ynXlDDcyMrFYE/view
2022 FJ auto transm with crawl control (CC). I did the blue/white ( under the footwell) hack switch to get locker in 2H,4H,4L. So, turn off the e-nannies with hack switch. Then 4L, engage locker ok. But but when you move to 4H it disengages the locker. I asked an aussie FJ group they said that happens to the ones with CC and if you ground the # 10 pin (over 5mph safety) the truck goes to limp mode. What if, after engaging locker in 4L, I disable the cable (with a switch) that signals the locker motor to disengage ( I think pin # 2 in the plug in the locker casing). The locker will stay engaged in 4H, dash light will blink and the ECU will try to disengage but locker stays. Any suggestion/idea. Thanks
You are asking about a vehicle we haven't tried this mod on. We unfortunately wouldn't be of any help to you. Toyota forums and Facebook groups would be your best bet to get your questions answered.
Hey Brian, we have an e-locker swap video that shows which wire that needs to be grounded out to disable the necessity to be in 4lo to engage the locker. Here's a link: th-cam.com/video/qAznG_WoS44/w-d-xo.html
hey timmy! doing my elocker swap soon. do you know what part numbers are for new hoses for the front and rear differentials? also, how much fipg and redline grease is needed? thanks!
I don't know the part numbers for those hoses. Your local Toyota dealer is probably your best bet. They can't be that expensive. One tube of FIPG is way more than enough. It's been a while and I can't even remember what I used grease on, but it can't be that much.
Thanks for all the great content! Where is the factory location for the locker ecu? I’m on the hunt for that rear end and everything that comes with it.
Newb to the locker world here. I have a 96 4:88 rear locker (I hope) first how do I ensure that's what it is and 2nd will the 98 schematic work for the 96 if it's the same gear?
I have never heard of a 3rd Gen 4runner come with 4:88 gearing. It's either 4:10 or 4:30. There's numbers on driver door jam sticker that can tell you what your gear ratio is. www.sonoransteel.com/download/library/1996-2004ToyotaGearRatio.pdf That schematic should work but I'm not 100% sure.
Where did he get the wires to extended the wires from the wiring harness? Or what type of wires do I use? My wires cuts off really short from the wiring harness that connects to the plug on the differential, I need to extend the wires so it can reach the driver side.
In the video we did for the E-Locker Swap, our buddy Seydzh said he used a 6 conductor trailer wire to create his harness because he bought the all the stuff he needed from a guy and the guy cut the plugs out of a vehicle. Just do a search online and you will probably find the trailer wire you need on Amazon. Something like this: amzn.to/2DVzylm Maybe Seydzh was mistaken because the trailer wiring I saw was either 4 wire or 7 wire but you could use a 7 wire harness and then just use 6 of the wires. Here's a link to the video: th-cam.com/video/qAznG_WoS44/w-d-xo.html Start watching at 31:30. You can solder the wires together or you could use butt connectors. I prefer using shrink butt connectors. I show how I use shrink butt connectors in this video: th-cam.com/video/cVmoRK54P9k/w-d-xo.html Go to play time 29:42.
i am trying to bench test my junk yard locker.. on the last connection from the actuator i have a white plug with 9 wires and a seperate black plug with the two white w black stripe ground wires attatched . then the locker computer i have has a white plug in it with 10 wires. my switch has 2 wires, im confused and how to connect my 9 wires from locker to the 10 that are in the ecu thanks
I wish I could help you but this video and the other one I shot with the two brothers is my only experience messing with the wiring for these e-lockers. Maybe post your question with some pics on a Toyota forum and somebody can help you out. Like you found out, there's some differences with the wiring with the years this e-locker was offered. You might have the wrong ECU paired with that locker.
i think i am figuring it out, is that added fuse going from the power side of the battery required for the test or can i hook it up without it? thanks for the help.
@adamburgess3243 I think you can test it without the add a fuse, but when you install it, you'll be pulling power from somewhere and that will most likely be via a tap a fuse into one of your circuits inside your cab fuse panel.
Tim, would you consider making a video on how to install the actuator motor after taking it off of the 3rd member? I am reading the FSM on it and it’s super confusing. Is there an easy way to do it correctly? From what I am reading, it isn’t as simple as dropping it in. Apparently I am looking for match marks and wider teeth at some point?! Help, please! Enlighten me!
Aged10Years we haven’t done this yet so it’s possible we will do it in the future, however maybe not as quickly as you need it. T4r.org should be the next place you visit to understand the nuances of fitting the actuator motor teeth correctly.
@@TimmyTheToolman Dang. I need this too--- but explained to me Timmy the Toolman speak and not FSM speak. :-) I'm in the process of the swap. I have the actuator and (locking) 3rd member already installed on the new (not-yet-installed) axle housing. The locker and actuator motor were tested before I bought it. Right now the diff is in the locked position. It had to be locked in order to get the actuator motor bolted on but now I can't get access to the fork in order to manually unlock it. Not really a problem if all works well once it's installed, but if it doesn't I'm stuck locked. I'm worried that once I plug it in the actuator motor might "think" it's in the unlocked position and then cause the whole damn thing to bind up once I hit the switch. My question is this: If I make sure the switch is in "on" the first time I plug it in will the motor calibrate itself as it cycles on/off between the limit switches in the ecu? Or does it all need to jive from the onset? Hope this makes sense...
@@johndaniels3984 Hey John, I don't know the answer to your question. We have some experience with this mod but we're not "gurus" when it comes to knowing everything about it. I would think the locker ECU would be able to discern the position of the switch and calibrate itself accordingly. If everything is installed and wired correctly, you should be able to lock and unlock your e-locker. But, before you install the axle, why don't you wire it up and bench test it? Support the axle on jack stands and turn one of the axles. With the diff unlocked, the opposing axle should turn the opposite direction. Next, lock the diff and the axles should turn the same direction. This will confirm for you that the locker is able to lock and unlock.
Timmy The Toolman I found this shortly after posting comment. It clarified it for me. I followed the instructions in the post, now I just need to remember to have the switch “on” when I first plug it in. Thanks for the great videos and quick response! www.tacomaworld.com/threads/e-locker-actuator-motor-install.466058/
Because Seydzh saved money making the wiring harness himself. Yes, we all know time is money but Seydzh obviously felt like it was worth his time to make the wiring harness himself since he had all the OEM plugs he needed to put it together.
tim, i have a 03 2.7 pre-runner. i not interested in a 4WD, but im interested in a locker of some sort. what is your opinion on a Detroit Locker? we will soon be moving from MS to GA to start building our house in the mountains so my needs are moving, building material, pulling 5 x 10 utility trailer etc. any help would be appreciated.
mr mojo risen people say good things about them. A lot of people use east cost gear supply and our buddy Jordan has used ZUK that owns gearinstalls with good luck too!
@@TimmyTheToolman thanks a bunch! i will look at your recommendations. just got done with my hayden tranny cooler... of course i watched your cooler install vid. keep up the good work and thanks for sharing.
ok this might sound stupied question but how the ecu will know the speed and the postion of 4wd since its not conected to main ecu and transfer case or speed sensor
@@TimmyTheToolman 6:58 pin 8 and pin 10 have to be grounded to engage locker...how the ecu know if it 4wd or 2wd or if it under 5 m/h to engage locker , its not conected to a speed sensor or position sensor
Question Timmy just got 96 4runner 4x4 with 4.10 and came across 97 4x4 for parts that came with 4.30 E Locker should I keep the 4.10 or do full front and rear with 4.30? Swap Note my 96 doesn't have elock. And I pulled out complete harness from 97.
@@victorllamas4252 The ones with the e-lockers usually came with 4.30 gearing from what I understand. If there really is a choice, I'd choose 4.30 gearing.
I have a 2010 Sport Prerunner. Can you r & r the 3rd member and install an e-locker without any other mods to the axle? I know you have to get the other stuff. But, I want to keep my axle.
Well, for the 3rd Gen 4runners and 1st Gen Tacomas you have to alter the axle housing so the e-locker will fit. You have to cut material out and drill and tap additional holes. I'd assume it would be similar for your 2010.
Hey guys I'm just wondering, if I had a buddy with a 4runner that had the e locker and the same wiring harness could I take my uninstalled locker under their truck and plug into that wiring harness and test that way? Thanks
@@TimmyTheToolman Hey tim just an update, I pulled my Buddy's 4Runner in the garage plugging in my locker and hit the button, the locker I bought worked. Total time about 30 minutes so this is a good option if you know someone. Thx.
Hey tim I've set up my e locker using your diagram and it works great. I purchased the wire terminals to add to the locker switch but they seem too large. Is there a trick to inserting those? Any help is appreciated. Thank you
I do have another question about the locker switch. Is it always supposed to be illuminated or only when the switch is on? When I hook mine up the switch turns on and stays on no matter if the switch is turned on or not?
Right now im bench testing the set up. I have it wired according the the diagram. The only thing that's different is the two pwr source wires on the switch, pin 4 and 5 I have running to the positive side of the test battery im using.
Ol" Wei is part of the E-locker club now thanks to you. We did his whole swap in one long day. We didn't finish the wiring though. Wei did the rest at home.
Very nice!!! That wiring diagram is also pretty darn helpful, glad more people can get eyes on it. You guys did the front and rear? Did he replace the whole rear axle or did he notch his existing axle housing to mate with the elocked diff?
Well, save some searches for 3rd Gen 4runners and 1st Gen Tacomas on the PickNPull website and you'll be alerted when vehicles meeting your search criteria show up at the sites within your search radius. Maybe you'll get lucky and find one you can pull the front diff and rear axle from. Then you'll be part of the Cool Kids Club with an e-locker.
I have a 99 4x4 Tacoma SR5 but with no diff locker, a same 4Runner year E-locker would be compatible with my Tacoma, or maybe any other same Tacoma model E-locker would be compatible to install it?
The rear axles are the same for 1st Gen Tacomas and 3rd Gen 4runners with the exception that one has leaf spring mounts and the other coil spring mounts. The e-lockers are the same for both models.
Timmy!
You should totally do a 3rd gen, specifically 01-02, auto transmission conversion to a manual transmission. Specifically to get an awesome 5 speed, as well as getting rid of the terrible P0770 CEL code. I’d be willing to have you use my truck if you need one. I can hit the junkyard and get a manual Tranny and all the needed parts. I think the wiring harness is needed.
Where do you live?
Couldn't have setup our E locker upgrade without this video since our harness was cut. Thanks so much. PayPal sent!
You're very welcome Jim. I'm glad our video helped you get your e-locker wired up. Thanks for the donation, and Happy Wrenching!
Thanks so much. Now I have a better understanding and can hopefully diagnose why my locker will only engage but not disengage.
You're welcome Eric.
Awesome video Tim!
Thank you my Kuwaiti Brother!
Gray wire mod, check. Elocker action at 5mins.
Another great video. Thanks guys!
Thanks Jonny!
Good video, I've locked the rear diff on my 99 Highlander-4Runner three times in the last 21 years. Once in the lot prior to delivery and twice over the years just to see if it still works, it still works. Overriding the
I don't understand either why people would want to override this safety feature, but they do.
Hey Tim, I just purchased another 3rd gen. A 2001 Limited with 377,000 miles! Everything works great except the brakes. The abs system is not functioning(bad abs pump) if you ever get a chance to do a video on the master cylinder/abs module replacement that would be great!
Just fixed the issue over the weekend. It was a bad electric motor that powered the abs vacuum pump
What were the symptoms? My friend has a 2000 Tacoma with the abs light on, we tried swapping one of the wheel speed sensors to no avail. We jumped the diagnostic port under the hood, got a bunch of codes from counting the abs light flashing (wheel speed sensors, deceleration sensor circuit, stop light switch circuit), leading me to be believe that the issue may be the abs ecu because it’s unlikely to be all of those issues at once.. however, the ecu is a little pricey to risk buying the part to find out that it wasn’t the issue..
Thank you for this ! Extremly helpful!
You're very welcome.
Finally found my e-locker for the swap and about to bench test today. Hope it works.Thanks for the vids!!
Hopefully it's all good Tim. Good luck with the install. You're very welcome and Happy Wrenching!
@@TimmyTheToolman Looks like I got a green ECU with 13 wires on mine. Is that a thing or did I get burned?
@@johnstontimothy901 I know there's a couple different ECUs for these lockers so I don't think you got burned.
Found a couple pics online for it but can’t find the wiring diagram. Lol it’s always a challenge when you’re learning as you go!
@@johnstontimothy901 Yeah, hopefully you can figure it out.
Thanks Great Video Excellence Job , Please keep Us More Video Do You Are The Best Of The Best.
@@rigosandoval282 Thanks for the compliment. We will continue to make videos.
Nice work tim
Thanks Antonio.
Great video
Very smart!!!. Nice job!
Nice video as all ways Timmy, I am learning a lot from you brother . .. 👌👍
Thanks! We're glad you like the video and it's good to hear you're learning a lot from us. Sean and I are learning all the time as well by making these videos. That's a big part of what makes this adventure fun, challenging and rewarding. Thanks for taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!
Thanks for all the videos Timmy! I recently picked up a clean 99 5 speed 4runner with the e locker and was transferring some parts over from my 1997 4runner. The E-locker on the 97 worked but the locker wasn’t engaging on the 99. I went through a full day of diagnosing and troubleshooting and I can’t figure out what my issue is. Both actuators and 4wd ECUs are good, the wiring looks good. On the 97 when I engage the rear E-locker the light flashes and I hear a clicking sound from under the hood (around where the abs module is) and the abs light comes on as it should. In the 99 I hear no such sound and the abs light doesn’t come on. Just to be clear I tested both the actuators/4wd ecu’s by putting them on the 97 and confirming the work. Where do you suggest I go from here?
Have you confirmed it's actually not engaging on your 99? Did you lift up the rear end and confirm the rear wheels don't turn together in the same direction? Where is your switch getting it's power from? In the video we did for the E-Locker Swap, the switch gets it's power from a fuse tap. Take a look at this video th-cam.com/video/qAznG_WoS44/w-d-xo.html and look at this wiring diagram that we link in the video description: drive.google.com/file/d/1Gi7fRSslBFb79xx1eD8ynXlDDcyMrFYE/view
2022 FJ auto transm with crawl control (CC). I did the blue/white ( under the footwell) hack switch to get locker in 2H,4H,4L.
So, turn off the e-nannies with hack switch. Then 4L, engage locker ok. But but when you move to 4H it disengages the locker. I asked an aussie FJ group they said that happens to the ones with CC and if you ground the # 10 pin (over 5mph safety) the truck goes to limp mode.
What if, after engaging locker in 4L, I disable the cable (with a switch) that signals the locker motor to disengage ( I think pin # 2 in the plug in the locker casing). The locker will stay engaged in 4H, dash light will blink and the ECU will try to disengage but locker stays.
Any suggestion/idea. Thanks
You are asking about a vehicle we haven't tried this mod on. We unfortunately wouldn't be of any help to you. Toyota forums and Facebook groups would be your best bet to get your questions answered.
Awesome video!! Can you do a video that shows the mod to allow the locking diff to be active in 2wd and 4-Hi?
Hey Brian, we have an e-locker swap video that shows which wire that needs to be grounded out to disable the necessity to be in 4lo to engage the locker. Here's a link: th-cam.com/video/qAznG_WoS44/w-d-xo.html
hey timmy! doing my elocker swap soon. do you know what part numbers are for new hoses for the front and rear differentials? also, how much fipg and redline grease is needed? thanks!
I don't know the part numbers for those hoses. Your local Toyota dealer is probably your best bet. They can't be that expensive. One tube of FIPG is way more than enough. It's been a while and I can't even remember what I used grease on, but it can't be that much.
@@TimmyTheToolman appreciate it! thanks timmy!
@@isaacsumera3795 No problem.
Thanks for all the great content! Where is the factory location for the locker ecu? I’m on the hunt for that rear end and everything that comes with it.
It's at the driver kick panel right under the fuse box
me and my friend got a donor truck that came with the e locker can i take everything out and follow this diagram and everything will work?
The wiring is different on some years. I can't guarantee it will be exact. Some of the e-locker ECUs are different.
@@TimmyTheToolman oh dang okay
Newb to the locker world here. I have a 96 4:88 rear locker (I hope) first how do I ensure that's what it is and 2nd will the 98 schematic work for the 96 if it's the same gear?
I have never heard of a 3rd Gen 4runner come with 4:88 gearing. It's either 4:10 or 4:30. There's numbers on driver door jam sticker that can tell you what your gear ratio is. www.sonoransteel.com/download/library/1996-2004ToyotaGearRatio.pdf That schematic should work but I'm not 100% sure.
Where did he get the wires to extended the wires from the wiring harness? Or what type of wires do I use? My wires cuts off really short from the wiring harness that connects to the plug on the differential, I need to extend the wires so it can reach the driver side.
In the video we did for the E-Locker Swap, our buddy Seydzh said he used a 6 conductor trailer wire to create his harness because he bought the all the stuff he needed from a guy and the guy cut the plugs out of a vehicle. Just do a search online and you will probably find the trailer wire you need on Amazon. Something like this: amzn.to/2DVzylm Maybe Seydzh was mistaken because the trailer wiring I saw was either 4 wire or 7 wire but you could use a 7 wire harness and then just use 6 of the wires. Here's a link to the video: th-cam.com/video/qAznG_WoS44/w-d-xo.html Start watching at 31:30. You can solder the wires together or you could use butt connectors. I prefer using shrink butt connectors. I show how I use shrink butt connectors in this video: th-cam.com/video/cVmoRK54P9k/w-d-xo.html Go to play time 29:42.
i am trying to bench test my junk yard locker.. on the last connection from the actuator i have a white plug with 9 wires and a seperate black plug with the two white w black stripe ground wires attatched . then the locker computer i have has a white plug in it with 10 wires. my switch has 2 wires, im confused and how to connect my 9 wires from locker to the 10 that are in the ecu thanks
I wish I could help you but this video and the other one I shot with the two brothers is my only experience messing with the wiring for these e-lockers. Maybe post your question with some pics on a Toyota forum and somebody can help you out. Like you found out, there's some differences with the wiring with the years this e-locker was offered. You might have the wrong ECU paired with that locker.
i think i am figuring it out, is that added fuse going from the power side of the battery required for the test or can i hook it up without it? thanks for the help.
@adamburgess3243 I think you can test it without the add a fuse, but when you install it, you'll be pulling power from somewhere and that will most likely be via a tap a fuse into one of your circuits inside your cab fuse panel.
Great video. But Timmy where can I buy the service manual?
Hey Ricardo, glad you like the video. Do a search online and you'll most likely find the 2 volume FSM set for sale on Ebay.
Tim, would you consider making a video on how to install the actuator motor after taking it off of the 3rd member? I am reading the FSM on it and it’s super confusing. Is there an easy way to do it correctly? From what I am reading, it isn’t as simple as dropping it in. Apparently I am looking for match marks and wider teeth at some point?! Help, please! Enlighten me!
Aged10Years we haven’t done this yet so it’s possible we will do it in the future, however maybe not as quickly as you need it. T4r.org should be the next place you visit to understand the nuances of fitting the actuator motor teeth correctly.
@@TimmyTheToolman Dang. I need this too--- but explained to me Timmy the Toolman speak and not FSM speak. :-) I'm in the process of the swap. I have the actuator and (locking) 3rd member already installed on the new (not-yet-installed) axle housing. The locker and actuator motor were tested before I bought it. Right now the diff is in the locked position. It had to be locked in order to get the actuator motor bolted on but now I can't get access to the fork in order to manually unlock it. Not really a problem if all works well once it's installed, but if it doesn't I'm stuck locked. I'm worried that once I plug it in the actuator motor might "think" it's in the unlocked position and then cause the whole damn thing to bind up once I hit the switch. My question is this: If I make sure the switch is in "on" the first time I plug it in will the motor calibrate itself as it cycles on/off between the limit switches in the ecu? Or does it all need to jive from the onset? Hope this makes sense...
@@johndaniels3984 Hey John, I don't know the answer to your question. We have some experience with this mod but we're not "gurus" when it comes to knowing everything about it. I would think the locker ECU would be able to discern the position of the switch and calibrate itself accordingly. If everything is installed and wired correctly, you should be able to lock and unlock your e-locker. But, before you install the axle, why don't you wire it up and bench test it? Support the axle on jack stands and turn one of the axles. With the diff unlocked, the opposing axle should turn the opposite direction. Next, lock the diff and the axles should turn the same direction. This will confirm for you that the locker is able to lock and unlock.
Timmy The Toolman I found this shortly after posting comment. It clarified it for me. I followed the instructions in the post, now I just need to remember to have the switch “on” when I first plug it in. Thanks for the great videos and quick response!
www.tacomaworld.com/threads/e-locker-actuator-motor-install.466058/
Thanks for posting this
Why wouldnt you just buy an aftermarket wiring kit? So simple and easy to use.
Because Seydzh saved money making the wiring harness himself. Yes, we all know time is money but Seydzh obviously felt like it was worth his time to make the wiring harness himself since he had all the OEM plugs he needed to put it together.
tim, i have a 03 2.7 pre-runner. i not interested in a 4WD, but im interested in a locker of some sort. what is your opinion on a Detroit Locker? we will soon be moving from MS to GA to start building our house in the mountains so my needs are moving, building material, pulling 5 x 10 utility trailer etc. any help would be appreciated.
mr mojo risen people say good things about them. A lot of people use east cost gear supply and our buddy Jordan has used ZUK that owns gearinstalls with good luck too!
@@TimmyTheToolman thanks a bunch! i will look at your recommendations. just got done with my hayden tranny cooler... of course i watched your cooler install vid. keep up the good work and thanks for sharing.
@@mrmojorisen6336 You're welcome Brother!
ok this might sound stupied question
but how the ecu will know the speed and the postion of 4wd since its not conected to main ecu and transfer case or speed sensor
what do you mean know the position of the 4wd?.. like if 4wd is engaged or not?
@@TimmyTheToolman 6:58 pin 8 and pin 10 have to be grounded to engage locker...how the ecu know if it 4wd or 2wd or if it under 5 m/h to engage locker , its not conected to a speed sensor or position sensor
An easy way is to take a 9v battery and jump the power terminals on the female locker side plug..
Thanks for sharing this.
Question Timmy just got 96 4runner 4x4 with 4.10 and came across 97 4x4 for parts that came with 4.30 E Locker should I keep the 4.10 or do full front and rear with 4.30? Swap Note my 96 doesn't have elock. And I pulled out complete harness from 97.
The front and rear gear ratios need to match. So, you'll either have to grab a front diff with 4.30 gearing or re-gear yours.
@@TimmyTheToolman yes on front and back to be the same my question is 410 or 430 what do you recommend 🤔
@@victorllamas4252 The ones with the e-lockers usually came with 4.30 gearing from what I understand. If there really is a choice, I'd choose 4.30 gearing.
I have a 2010 Sport Prerunner. Can you r & r the 3rd member and install an e-locker without any other mods to the axle? I know you have to get the other stuff. But, I want to keep my axle.
Well, for the 3rd Gen 4runners and 1st Gen Tacomas you have to alter the axle housing so the e-locker will fit. You have to cut material out and drill and tap additional holes. I'd assume it would be similar for your 2010.
My plan was to replace both the casing and the e locker. I guess, I have some research to do. Thanks for the quick reply.
Hey guys I'm just wondering, if I had a buddy with a 4runner that had the e locker and the same wiring harness could I take my uninstalled locker under their truck and plug into that wiring harness and test that way?
Thanks
Yeah, you could as long as you could get it up there high enough for the electrical plug to reach.
@@TimmyTheToolman Hey tim just an update, I pulled my Buddy's 4Runner in the garage plugging in my locker and hit the button, the locker I bought worked.
Total time about 30 minutes so this is a good option if you know someone.
Thx.
@@ritewaywelding Good to hear it worked out. Thanks for getting back to us and sharing this.
Hey tim I've set up my e locker using your diagram and it works great. I purchased the wire terminals to add to the locker switch but they seem too large. Is there a trick to inserting those? Any help is appreciated. Thank you
Disregard. Figured it out. NowI trying to get the switch to only light up when the switch is engaged
@@ev9918 Good luck figuring it out. Glad the video helped you out.
I do have another question about the locker switch. Is it always supposed to be illuminated or only when the switch is on? When I hook mine up the switch turns on and stays on no matter if the switch is turned on or not?
@@ev9918 Does it illuminate only when the headlights are on or is it on all the time?
Right now im bench testing the set up. I have it wired according the the diagram. The only thing that's different is the two pwr source wires on the switch, pin 4 and 5 I have running to the positive side of the test battery im using.
What battery is that
You can just use the battery from your vehicle.
Is same for tacoma 2004 1 gen?
yes
Is there a way i can get this video translated in spanish?
We don't have the time to do this. Your best bet is to get someone who can translate it for you.
yeeee buddy!
Also sick beats in the beginning, Sean.
Ol" Wei is part of the E-locker club now thanks to you. We did his whole swap in one long day. We didn't finish the wiring though. Wei did the rest at home.
Very nice!!! That wiring diagram is also pretty darn helpful, glad more people can get eyes on it. You guys did the front and rear? Did he replace the whole rear axle or did he notch his existing axle housing to mate with the elocked diff?
Yeah, we swapped out both the front and rear in one day. He replaced the whole rear axle like you did.
Yikes, solid work man!
Envy I dont have a locker
Well, save some searches for 3rd Gen 4runners and 1st Gen Tacomas on the PickNPull website and you'll be alerted when vehicles meeting your search criteria show up at the sites within your search radius. Maybe you'll get lucky and find one you can pull the front diff and rear axle from. Then you'll be part of the Cool Kids Club with an e-locker.
I have a 99 4x4 Tacoma SR5 but with no diff locker, a same 4Runner year E-locker would be compatible with my Tacoma, or maybe any other same Tacoma model E-locker would be compatible to install it?
The rear axles are the same for 1st Gen Tacomas and 3rd Gen 4runners with the exception that one has leaf spring mounts and the other coil spring mounts. The e-lockers are the same for both models.
@@TimmyTheToolman thank you
@@peperonni123 You're welcome.