youve been lied to for years
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 พ.ค. 2024
- Use code SDC50 to get 50% OFF your first Factor box plus 20% off your next box at bit.ly/4bfZmqa
GET THE PLANS: spencleydesignco.com/products...
👉 All My Plans - rebrand.ly/66hppxg
👉 Merch - rebrand.ly/d52ph5d
👉 Patreon - rebrand.ly/txql2ur
👉 Instagram - rebrand.ly/6mpey28
👉 Leave a Tip - rebrand.ly/5sjl536
👉 Podcast - anchor.fm/offthecutpodcast
👉 Tiktok - rebrand.ly/wpwjyk3
👉 Website - rebrand.ly/99iwzqj
💰 Exclusive Viewer Discounts 💰
SEE ALL DISCOUNTS - rebrand.ly/tfppzes
Bits & Bits Router/CNC Bits (10% off Code "SDC")
rebrand.ly/njveuj3
RZ Masks (10% off Code "SPENCLEY10")
rebrand.ly/mtv0j8t
Elgin Bluetooth Hearing Protection (10% off Code “SDC10”)
rebrand.ly/o8v4x9k
Serious Grit Sandpaper (10% off Code “SPENCLEY”)
rebrand.ly/z1cdlc0
Arbortech Tools (10% off Using Code “ACP10”)
rebrand.ly/9ptbqc6
TotalBoat Epoxy + Finishes (5% off Code "60C7XF2XQQAS")
rebrand.ly/r6yxcaf
🛠 Tools & Supplies 🛠
All My Tools and Gear - rebrand.ly/il7o6my
Bluetooth Hearing Protection (10% off Code “SDC10”) - rebrand.ly/o8v4x9k
TSO Track Saw Square - tsoproducts.com/guide-rail-sq...
Black Laminate - amzn.to/3UFNV5v
Contact Cement - amzn.to/3QqtSWv
Laminate Roller - amzn.to/3QsWfDr
Laminate Cutting Tool - amzn.to/3QsWHBA
Foam Brushes - amzn.to/3Qqw404
Large Router - amzn.to/3JGEigD
Large Spiral Straight Bit (10% off Code “SDC”) - bitsbits.com/product/compress...
Spiral Flush Trim Bit (10% off Code “SDC”) - bitsbits.com/product/udft5152...
Mini Template Bit (10% off Code “SDC”) - bitsbits.com/product/3001/
60° Chamfer Bit (10% off Code "SDC") - bitsbits.com/product/whitesid...
Mini Roundover Bit (10% off Code "SDC") - bitsbits.com/product/1978/ref...
UV Resin (5% off Code "60C7XF2XQQAS") - www.totalboat.com/products/uv...
Black Pigment (5% off Code "60C7XF2XQQAS") - www.totalboat.com/collections...
Total Boat Halcyon (5% off Code "60C7XF2XQQAS") - www.totalboat.com/products/ha...
Yellow Router Push Blocks - rebrand.ly/p4nlll6
Yellow Table Saw Push Blocks - rebrand.ly/c47dewh
Sandpaper Discs - lddy.no/1em9k
Glue Bottle - lddy.no/1ehd3
Painters Tape - lddy.no/1em9m
Hot Glue Gun - amzn.to/3XSPNI0
Planer - amzn.to/3ahVRCr
Festool Rotex Sander - amzn.to/3gOIUa1
Festool Track Saw - amzn.to/3uWg88F
Respirator - lddy.no/1ehed
Respirator Organic Vapor Filters - lddy.no/1ehec
Foam to Cut On - amzn.to/3FKBVJa
Orange Trigger Clamps - amzn.to/3sWh5ie
Orange Parallel Clamps - amzn.to/3DAuPUH
Kreg Workbench Clamp - amzn.to/3w8cIpI
T Track - amzn.to/3WmVM9F
Woodpeckers Track Saw Square - amzn.to/3G6efhp
Double Sided Tape - amzn.to/3UJU2Gk
Blue Metal Workbench Frame - amzn.to/3y0PcLJ
Green Pencil with White Lead - amzn.to/3G98780
Red Ratchet Clamps - amzn.to/3wrQZJc
Chamfer/Reamer Tool - tsoproducts.com/bench-dogs/ac...
Doghole Plugs Plastic - tsoproducts.com/workstations-...
Doghole Plugs Metal - benchdogs.co.uk/products/mft-...
Dovetail Bit - www.microjig.com/products/dov...
Dovetail Clamps - www.microjig.com/products/dov...
🍿 Related Videos 🎥
Milling Boards WITHOUT a Jointer - • YOU DONT NEED A JOINTE...
Drill Charging Station - • next level organizatio...
Systainer Storage - • this organizational ha...
TOOLS YOU SHOULDN'T BUY - • seriously... dont do it
How to Get FREE TOOLS - • Video
First 5 Tools You Should Buy - • Video
Flip Top Tool Cart - • I dont know why people...
Mobile Workbench - • I regret wasting tons ...
🔎 Shop Tours 🔍
• Shop Tours
🎸 Where I Get My Music 🥁
rebrand.ly/evks4o6
*DISCLAIMERS: Some of the above links are affiliate links.
Mailing Address:
Spencley Design Co
1747 Olentangy River Rd 1330
Columbus, OH 43212 - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Use code SDC50 to get 50% OFF your first Factor box plus 20% off your next box at bit.ly/4bfZmqa!
PLANS: spencleydesignco.com/products/doghole-workbench-top-plans
Where can I find the dog hole reamer and dog hole plugs? Also are they available in 19mm (3/4 inch)
Lol did you heart your own comment 🤣
Early in my woodworking career, an “Old-Timer” told me, “Don’t spend more time working ON your shop than IN your shop”.
Most Underappreciated comment on TH-cam. People spend so much time prepping the perfect shop instead of just doing the projects. The shop is only gonna be as good as the user.
That's cause your old-timer didn't make any more working ON his shop and this guy does.
I'd rebut, do what you enjoy. Motivation isn't always easy to find, even with your passions. If perfecting your shop is what you enjoy, make it happen
Old timers didn't need content for videos. This is a 10min workbench build interrupted by 23 min of adds and coupon codes
"ain't gonna buy no $500 pre-made workbench". Builds one for $4000..
Hahaha...spot on!!!
With a ton of Festools and Woodpecker gear...
@@jameskling9400 Am I wrong in my comment above?
I'm sorry you think tools are single use...
Guy pumping more products in one video than billy mays
Yeah, it’s an infomercial filled with requests to join his patreon so “he can quit his day job”.
Billy Mays never pumped more than one product into a video
Billy Mays… I’m embarrassed to know his name 😮
What the hell is everybody's problem, this is a regular woodworking video on TH-cam what the hell is wrong with your people, they use tools they these tools have brands...deal!
Making holes in your table to sell a product to cover them up is ingenious...
That's hilarious! Get 'em coming and going.
with that many holes, you could probably box off/seal the bottom, leave a port for vacuum, and use it as a downdraft table for sanding...
My thoughts exactly! Put the woodworking equivalent of marine diesel water-separator in the table-side of the system to allow screws to drip into it and not get sucked into the vacuum itself (sort of like a plumbing p-trap will catch a wedding ring before it going further down the waste line) and this ridiculous material- and time-wasting build might just possibly be worth it and definitely more utilitarian.
This might just possibly be the dumbest TH-cam video I’ve watched in a long time.
Been wood working for 60 + years . . .my work bench is topped with MDF with few dog holes. If i need a special hole I'll drill it but most of the time it's a scrap of wood with a tort screw making the clamp. When the MDF is butchered I'll flip it, simple, low cost and easy. Tip #2 , if you have some old pull down window blinds they make a great glue up surface . . .who knew . . .not bashing just helping. Stay safe and build something
I completely agree, and I love your Tip #2. 👍
I'm not a woodworker for a long time, but I like my stupid simple workbench: an old solid door topped with one layer MDF. The MDF is connected to the "door" with few screws. I have few dog holes on one side (3x4) an so far this was always sufficient. I can easly clamp long wood pices at the egdes wich serve pretty well as fences for different tool. I don't care to cut slighty in the MDF because I'll change it once a year for less than 20 €.
@@berndreuther704 I did a similar thing but with an old office desk top someone was giving away for free. It's laminated well and doesn't fall apart like the stuff he shows in the video.
Hah, great tip on the roller curtains for a glue up surface!
So you sealed the bottom with polyurethane to stop moisture absorption but then routed a ton of holes with probably the same amount of surface area as the bottom that can absorb moisture.
It's less about preventing the absorption of moisture at all, it's about preventing one side from absorbing moisture while the other side doesn't. If only one side absorbs moisture from the air, the entire surface will warp and bow.
He said in the video he applied more off camera: 29:04
You cured me of ever wanting dog holes in a workbench!😂😂😂
There's no way he is ever going to need all those holes.
Organic vapor cartridges should be stored in a plastic bag because the activated carbon in them will continue to be used up even when sitting in a drawer.
I finally bought a plastic container that’s big enough to hold the 3M mask and the large cartridges. It’s tough enough not to get torn in my shop.
I was under the impression that the degradation of organic vapor cartridges would put their lifespan at about 30 days after opening them regardless of storage, does keeping them in a bag actually extend that lifespan?
I already tend to use them longer than their intended effectiveness since I primarily use them for less critical applications, airbrushing acrylics and washing resin prints with IPA.
@@AuntJemimaGames I hope not! If so, it’s in the 3M fine print.
@@AuntJemimaGames yes it should, they have activated carbon in them and that stuff is basically a crazy high surface area that like to stick organic molecules to it. If you put it in a bag they stop absorbing since there is no flow across them and no way for more organics to get in. I was always told they are done when you can smell the stuff you are trying to keep out.
P-95 or P100 dust filters are a good choice for sanding.
T-tracks work wonderfully if you install them properly and clean them after use. Cleaning them is actually easyer than cleaning the dog holes. You just did a very poor job with your tracks.
I've just spent 33 min of my life watching this guy making holes in workbench
He is a lowgrade clickbaiter and scare monger. Abom 79 is another empty vessel.
@@jamesdrake2378 "low grade" based on what exactly? These benches with many holes are common in the UK -they are called MFT tops or "multi function tabletop" - you can buy them in MDF or quality birch ply, with cnc grade accuracy holes for dogs for laying out a tracksaw against, and the company that makes them even makes a knockdown easily portable site bench system - you're literally talking BS - the guy who invented the MFT system is a MILLIONAIRE NOW just from this product.
Rather churlish of you Sir.
But did you find it relaxing or stressful?
@@elmaddog1978 I do not know what floats your boat. Maybe you could try to focus on porn or watching paint dry.
A fundamental concept I was taught as an apprentice furniture maker in the early 1980’s, was the necessity of applying equal finishes to both sides of a wood panel. If a table top was finished with six coats of BLO, the underside MUST be finished with six coats as well. This allows for the equal transfer of ambient moisture/relative humidity. The underside doesn’t have be rubbed-out as meticulously as the top, but equal coats top and bottom are critical to keeping the panel flat. That said, if laminate is applied to the top of a workbench, it should also be applied to the bottom, if flatness is the goal. When building laminate countertops over the past 40 years, I always apply two coats of urethane to the underside to seal out moisture, even though the counters are firmly secured to the base cabinets.
SOOOO TRUE . . .. that's why IKEA furniture is laminated on both sides . . .now you know, NOT bashing just teaching
this may be THEE most important comment and overall concept to take away from this whole project video , especially given the primary goal in centered around construction of a surface which is "true and square" . I have had to learn similar lessons that deal with this type of phenomenon when painting something like wooden shelves one side at a time and letting it dry in the sun, or when i had had sprayed down a piece of 1x8 with water to open up the fibers after had incrementally sanded it down with a very high grit paper before i planned on staining it and then remembered that it would not take very well to stain when the surface is sanded super smooth and packed with all the fine dust powder, and spritzing it with warm water and giving it a wipe down does a great job at opening the grain back up to allow absorption of stain , but hell I couldn't believe in just a short matter of time before it dried it had crown my perfectly plained piece of wood
Those old rules don't apply to MDF. Unless it gets wet, MDF remains very flat and there close to zero expansion/contraction with humidity. I wouldn't even seal the bottom. It's overkill, at least because of moisture. There may be another reason.
Always appreciate a good tip in the comments, it's easy to assume viewers and video creators know all there is to know about stuff like this, but there's a lot to learn and always something you didn't know!
@@kwilliams2239 As someone who has built several speaker & subwoofer enclosures out of the stuff, I have to agree with kwilliams about the old rules not really applying to MDF. Compared to any traditional board, or piece of lumber, MDF is incredibly stable dimensionally. Moisture truly is its only weakness, but even then it only effects the parts of it that got directly exposed to it. Over the years I've dealt with a number of MDF sheets that had edges damaged from moisture exposure. Even what seems like a small amount of moisture can make an edge of a MDF sheet swell by a surprising amount. Of course this was nearly always due to my laziness & not wanting to move heavy ass sheets of the stuff any more than absolutely necessary... Thankfully when this happens, most of the sheet can be salvaged by simply sawing off the damaged edge. Even after having a couple inches along an entire edge swell to nearly double the original thickness, the rest of the sheet would still be just as perfectly true and flat as the day it was made. As long as it stays out of direct contact with moisture, MDF's superpower is it's ability to totally ignore things like temperature, humidity and time, and that makes pretty unique among woodworking materials.
I'd die of alcohol poisoning if I took a shot every time he uses the word "super"
T-tracks are disappearing from videos in 2024 but Factor is filling the void. Got it!
How someone would needs around 200 dog holes in a bench top is beyond me. The screws falling through is one thing, how about the dust that's constantly pouring through onto or into whatever below. I'd go nuts as everything else that fits in those holes falls through. I've been making furniture for years now and have a Roubo style bench with about 10 dog holes in it and haven't need more.
You might have noticed every hundred or thousand dollar piece of top equipment recommended in the past is now "not needed" and were onto the new set of expensive items to push, that in a year or so will be a total rip off and a waste, but the new items then to be pushed will be the rabbit's hurrah.
I think he has a case of collectors gotta-have-itis. All the Festool, all the dogholes, all the gimmicky jigs. This wasn't about functionality, it's his version of shopping for handbags.
My current work bench is a formika countertop that I got for free from a local cabinet shop. They pulled it out of someones house, and I stopped by one day asking if they had anything.
Another big benefit of dust collection with the router is the amount of fine dust that is sucked into your dust extractor rather than your lungs. MDF is some of the nastiest dust you can breathe in!
A lot of hardwood is even worse (toxic). Sanding is, by far, the most dangerous sawdust manufacturing operation. Dust extraction for all of these operations is critical. It's a lot easier cleaning it at the source, too.
May I suggest changing "find us" to "fine dust". :)
@@kwilliams2239 "A lot of hardwood is even worse (toxic)"
Hardwood is rarely toxic - MDF is.
You're dangerously wrong. Many species of hardwoods, primarily but not limited to exotics, are indeed toxic. Some are strong irritant that, some may have trouble breathing if inhaled. Few used in woodworking are drop-dead toxic but can be for some. Some really common but potentially strong irritants, like cocobolo, purple heart, and Padauk.
MDF is bound by a urea-formaldehyde glue, that while it outgases , it's not toxic at low levels. It's primarily danger is the dust, not the formaldehyde.
Of course one doesn't want to breathe fine dust of any sort, MDF isn't much different (plywood) than anything else, in this regard.
A quicker version for those starting out is a $40-ish half-mask respirator with P95 or P100 filters. The filters are click-in replaceable, and cost considerably less than replacement lungs. Won't protect your eyes though.
Drinking game: Shot every time he says "super" or "absolutely". I'm guessing this kills at least 3 people.
Yeah, the relentless emphasized superlatives are exhausting.
Now you're married, you have other responsibilities. MDF is extremely dangerous to lungs - even more than most hardwoods. Don't just use dust extraction. Use a top quality mask, even a full hood like Trend make. And, if you don't have one already, get and fit an air filter - just seen what looks like an AF hanging from your ceiling. I'm a DiYer and had about 20 years not doing any woodwork. Full time builder friends have lung diseases or have already died from lung diseases (tbf, they also smoked)
Lung safety is so important. Hands down the SINGLE best purchase I have ever made for my shop is a Trend Air Stealth P100 mask. It's less clunky and cumbersome than a full respirator and does a superb job of filtering out dust. It's also easy to clean.
My rule is if I'm cutting or sanding, that mask is on, and stays on until I'm done working. Before buying that mask and setting that rule for myself, I developed a persistent cough that wouldn't go away. After about 3 months of being disciplined about using that mask, the cough was gone and hasn't come back since. No doubt that cough was from dust exposure and had it continued I would have likely developed some serious lung problems.
Not enough YT woodworking channels take lung safety seriously enough.
Ok, but now you have fallen into and perpetuated another you tube myth, you don't need all those dog holes. Juse a couple of rows along the frount, and one side, with a row down the center and your done. Dont beleive my, just track how many you actually use over the course of a year and you'll see. Or you could take a look at a traditional cabinet makes bench and see where they placed their dog holes (square in those days) and you'll get the picture. How do I know this I to made a Polick workbench and when I went along and made my final one (out of all that expensive wood) I reduced the dog hole allotment (as described above) and spaced them according to the reach on the tail vice I added to one end and the moxen vice on the side) reduced the total dog holes by 87% and I have never missed them ever! Now in the Swiss cheese workbenches defence you can lay out your track saw anywhere to cut wood at right angles, but what about all those other angles, and do you want all those scares on your bench surface, I don't think so, so you'll probably never do that either. so track your hole usage and make a nice video next year on you thoughts, I'll look forward to that.
100% agree. Never understood the Swiss cheese bench. It’s not as bad as t-track, but it’s pretty terrible in practice.
I use all of the dog holes in my MFT. Keeping clamps out of the way of a router, for example, can be an interesting task without them being right where I want them. I don't want to hold the router at arm's length, either.
I was told not to breathe in MDF dust as it’s hazardous. You’re not even wearing a dust mask.
What he is doing is the typical “ gimmick” phase that most novice woodworkers go through. Traditional forms of woodworking benches with typically one row of dog holes and a few holdfast holes as needed, have been around for over 100 years for a reason. They work. Yes there have been improvements over the years. But they are small changes. Round dog holes and brass dogs for example. Better vise hardware. But having a bench with Swiss cheese holes is not a woodworking bench. It is inherently less than ridged.But it does make a nice assembly table if you have the room. The simple truth is he has very little skill and very little knowledge . That is ok. We were all there at one point. His actual skill is as a content creator.Not a woodworker.The real problem is he has fooled people into thinking he knows what he is doing as a woodworker.
The evolution of tools used on this show is getting out of my pay grade. You are the 'you tuber' that said you need something.
Claims to be a cheapskate and wants to save money, , whilst having k’s of dollars worth of the (in my view) overpriced “green and grey” tools!😂
I disagree about the overpriced thing but yeah😂true
You people are insufferable, what are you poor? don't have enough boot straps??
Have you tried not being poor? Or judging people for your failings??
"i used formica so nothing would stick to my tabletop, including epoxy"
"now i'm gonna put holes across the entire thing and ignore that epoxy will seep between the cracks!"
For which you use the reamer that he used to make the holes the correct size.
But he has a reamer....
Having worked in a wood shop for 12 years, I have some experience working with MDF. All of the holes that you have in your tabletop need to be sealed to prevent them from absorbing moisture and swelling. Hopefully, you don't bring a drink into the shop set it down on the tabletop, and spill it, sending all of that liquid into those dog holes. We used wood glue and a little bit of water to seal up the exposed/worked-on parts of the MDF to prevent that from happening.
Good note about sealing the holes, thanks!
made me short of breath watching you cut that mdf...look after your lungs mate
I think a lot of youtubers tend to not wear their masks for their videos as their face is sorta the brand i guess, but I would love to see a shift where they start wearing masks more. Woodworking is not a friend to your lungs.
@@thekylenovak they film enough that going maskless is extremely irresponsible for things like MDF
@thekylenovak the funny thing is that he doesn't use many things to need a vapor mask. Yes, it's essential to wear one. But with how little he needs it, it's really more important that he uses a mask whenever he's cutting MDF and even wood due to the much higher exposure
I've never seen anyone cut MDF with that much dust in a small space. I was cringing the whole time. It's almost irresponsible to be showing this to people, waving and smiling while you are making yourself a future client of Jacob Emrani for Mesothelioma.
Yes, please take care of yourself, MDF is quite toxic my friend.
I was an early adopter of the Parf Guide system in order to make a MFT cabinet. This serves many purposes (router table, base for midi lathe, clamping top Etc) one tip you may find useful if you decide to make another, and one of the major benefits of the Parf system is that I drilled the whole area with the 3mm guide holes and then only completed a section of 20mm holes leaving the remainder available to drill when and if required, this to a great extent solves the problem of small part falling through the 20mm holes (most of which you will not use) 18mm plywood is a better medium for the top with or without the Formica. Great work.
Plywood isn't nearly as flat as MDF. Unless you use Baltic birch, it's about as flat as the Rockies. Baltic birch makes the MFT look cheap, in comparison.
When you built your MFT cabinet, how did you mount the MFT to it? Did you leave the legs on? Can you reach under to feed clamps from the bottom? I've seen a few designs but they all made me wonder if I could get my arm, and a clamp, and come up from the bottom.
@@kwilliams2239 it’s a complicated design which has a drop in MFT top containing a router incert, there is sufficient room below (about 5inches) or it can be lifted from the front for access. It is removable to allow a midi lathe to occupy the same space and the MFT top becomes a rear safety wall whilst turning, I could go on but I won’t. It is truly a multi function unit.
Good tip on the Parf system, I’ll look it up!
With tee track always mount it under another plywood sheet that slightly overlaps the edge of the tee track which makes the holddowns operate against the plywood and not just against screws, this is how people put tee tracks on CNC's successfully.
what a brag 'spencley design co."
While I don't dispute what you said works great, assuming you don't do that, t-track should be set flush with the surface. Then when you tighten the screw it clamps the work piece to the top of the track and doesn't try to pull the screws out at all.
Of course this depends on what you use to clamp as things like toe clamps will pull up regardless. But positioning things like feather boards then don't put load on the screws.
Some t-track manufacturers put grooves in the sides of the track to allow you to bed it in glue, which really increases its holding power.
Great job using calls for laying your laminate top! One tip for future reference, don't start at one end of the top. Start in the middle. Line the laminate up and pull the center call out. Run your hand down the center of the laminate so it adheres to the mdf in the middle only. This really helps if you are trying to keep the laminate square to the piece or if you have very little overhang. Starting at one end can get you out of square really quickly. Ask me how I know!
Great video!
Personally, I wouldn’t recommend using Bluetooth earphones when using tools of any description in a working environment. If you’re looking to achieve a good job in a safe manner then you need to concentrate and not be distracted, even if it is somewhat repetitive in nature. If you have a lot of routing to do, then a set of ear defenders is the way to go.
I had the same thought, as to promotion of distractions while working with power tools to monetize links, being so reckless that such promoters need to get sued and face legal fees and massive losses of time defending, even if such suits are hard to win for a Plaintiff.
Hearing protectors are good to have in some variety, as well as spares for potential visitors or assistants. I like the higher end Browning branded deep over the head cans, as well as less effective behind the neck hardhat compatibles, and the softer in ear design for hot weather or less low frequency needs and sustained wear periods (not as easy to pop on or off), of the "dark green" brand that is softer and fits better than the major "orange" brand that doesn't seal as well and can be more irritating. Like respirators, hearing protectors are very easy to use wrong, with greatly diminished performance.
**sigh** most of you don't seem to get it - in the UK we use tops like these all the time - they are called MFT tops or "multi function tabletop" - you can buy them in MDF or quality birch ply, with cnc grade accuracy holes for dogs for laying out a tracksaw against, and the companies that make them even makes a knockdown easily portable site bench system - the ones saying "it's crap" you're literally talking BS. The multiple holes are more than for clamps - if the holes are laid out via CNC then they are perfect 90deg to each other - put the sheet down against 2 dogs, use 2 more dogs to lay out the tracksaw and PRESTO! perfect 90deg cuts EVERY.SINGLE.TIME. Who knew? Not everyone has an industrial sized tablesaw with sliding table, and I know several people that stopped using their TS almost completely after getting an MFT bench.
While hand planners new might be super expensive. Older vintage ones, are easy to find, and are easy extremely high quality. (They don’t make em’ like they used to) you may need to get them surfaced, and sharpened properly if they have been sitting in a barn, or a swap meet box for years. But in the end, way cheaper and of higher quality than new ones. Thankfully because everyone wants electric and simple, lol.
There’s something to be said for not making your bench top too precious. I worked in a small commercial wood shop making Southern Pine furniture. We would make small, disposable tables for most of our assembly work. We would make various assembly jigs quickly by shooting scraps of wood, into the table with a finish nail gun and ripping them back out when we were done. When the tables got too beat up, we threw them out!
I’m really not convinced about that dovetail profiled dado all around the edge. That’s gonna get ruined.
I don't know if I can trust someone who has tens of thousands of dollars worth of festool but doesn't have a basic dust collection or even a dust mask...
He plugs the Festool into dust collection 3:39, don’t see why he uses the Milwaukee at 4:19!
… the Festool leaks a good deal of dust, though! 6:50
deek. . . how big is your stick? For sure it's a lot smaller then your ego to bash. just saying
@@dannyoktim9628 and what are you saying using ESL?
What if you put the holes at X, 2X, 4X, 8X instead of every X. You should be able to get most combinations of distances without so many holes.
Am I supposed to take a woodworker seriously when he is wearing sandals?
The most talked about carpenter in history wore sandals.
@@TheStonedbanana I never saw Bob Villa wearing sandals.
@@miked.9364 😂
I remember back in the 60s when Pop was building coin laundries all across the southeast. Just needed a small shop with some heavy Rockwell table and radial saws. Maybe a Delta jointer. If you needed a hole in your table you just cut the damn thing. After a while, like a month or so, you just glued down another sheet of 3/4" BC plywood. The end of the month month he would have us run around with magnets on a stick. You know for picking up the Ferrous leftovers amongst the 4"-6" of sawdust. It was the good old days. No safety stuff to get in your way while you threw nails at the running table saw blade. Now Formica on the other hand was ubiquitous everywhere in the 50s and 60s. Needed a great router, strong hands, a lot of quarter over router bits. Ah yes don't forget the contact cement in 55 gallon drums. It would have you gleefully singing Daydream Believer by The Monkees without the radio being on. If the radio was on, it was AM
Glue a magnet to every dog hole clamp you own... trust me.
is the magnet there to lift out the doghole cap and to have a place to put said cap while a clamp is in place?
@@rampanttricky17 you bet. By your response, you've already done this (perhaps in a later video I haven't seen).
Why the hell aren't you wearing a mask when ripping that MDF with the circ saw?
I put t-track on my crosscut sled and then bought a very expensive stop from a very popular TH-camr. $75 later, I find clamping a wooden stop block remains the better approach and cost zero. Love your videos and approach. Congrats on wedding.
100% did the same thing and 100% agree. The kick in the nuts is… I knew it before dropping all that money but did it anyway.
@@theTobytheTitanwhich stop block did you buy? I’m considering one around the same price from a bigger you tuber and don’t want to waste me money if it’s the same as yours lol
KM. To be clear though- it’s nice. But… a scrap piece and clamp against the sled would be fine… for what I do.
I can 100% see how it benefits some.
I’m not trashing the product- I think you get what you pay for and its quality, precise, etc, etc.
@@terencemerritt0
I only use T track for fences and jigs that don't see glue etc. All they have to hold is the fence. They are easy to adjust but he's right, they aren't great for trying to clamp something down too. But that's not what they are for either.
I've never bothered with T track, table clamps or anything else, because you almost always have a ceiling above you and you can always get flexible pipe... jam the pipe in the ceiling on your bench top with the piece you want to work hold and that's it. Good enough for luthiers, good enough for me.
Have plywood to make? You will never find a better clamping method, need an overhang on a piece so you can cut it? Same (tho i usually just put it over foam on the table). Flexible pipe or batons, and you never need anything else.
Today I Learned: Design is an Iterative Process, where the initial design to solve a problem looks nothing like the final product.
I enjoy watching you learn through making mistakes and probably many appreciate your sharing, so they don't have to learn the hard way. One thing I've learned over the years as a furniture and cabinet maker is that plastic laminate, sorry, isn't the best surface to use as a work bench top. Glue can stick to it and if it's not cleaned up before it's completely dry it can pull the laminate film right off if you don't remove it carefully, plus PL can chip and come off over time and thus is not easily reparable. I've found a better solution is to screw down a piece of 1/8 or 3/16" sheet of hardboard over the MDF, as it's less expensive and easily repairable (a quick sanding with the random orbit sander) and can easily be replaced when needed. I apply an occasional coat of linseed oil on it to help keep glue from sticking and to give it better protection. Your laminate edges will be the first to chip off and you'll be looking to replace them. I would recommend just laying the hardboard over the top of the edges leaving the hardwood edge showing which can easily be sanded when it gets dinged up. And yes as many have already mentioned you went way overkill on the number of dog holes you need. And you could have saved yourself a lot of work by simply using a "hold fast" through the dog holes, the kind you tighten and loosen with a hammer, as they will go through a thicker workbench top without having to do all the chamfering you did, plus they hold really well .
One foot ladder routing should be a woodworking event in the Olympics.
Our old wood shop teacher wouldn't even let us into the building with sandals on, pretty sure he'd frown on Crocs too.😄 He had what would today be a totally unacceptable way of getting his point across.
So kinda too late now but for the hole jig starting to get a little jiggly towards the middle, why not use some of the new dog holes to clamp it down once it was 'centered'?
On a personal note, long and happy life together to you and your new wife. Cheers!
I've got dog holes and t-track in my bench. I use the dog holes for stops, and the t-track for clamping. Plus, I didn't put dog holes over the whole bench. Gives me a spot with no holes to work on small parts.
the Parf guide system is an excellent system to build out MFT style tables. I love the flexibility dog holes provide me . I can appreciate why people may hesitate , but they work perfectly in my workflow and the type of tools I use . I liked the tip on the chamfer bit on the underside . I want to rebuild my MFT table to be two layers thick to add that extra stability . Your solution will work perfectly thank you . I also own the wood pecker MFT jig I have never used it , the jig was an impulse purchase I thought the rougher method to bore the holes would be a perfect solution to the tear out I got using the Park guide system. I used baltic birch plywood to build my top . . I am surprised how upper able to utilize you apartment garage so effectively.
I suddenly don’t feel like such a schmuck. My projects almost ALWAYS wind up down the rabbit hole. Thx for being so transparent.
It is so easy to guess which companies did accept to pay for this video and... which ones did not ! ;-)
Definitively, "you've been lied for years". And this video proves this is not the end of it...
My best hand plane cost me $90 and spending the time to learn how to maintain and sharpen your tools quickly not only teaches precision but it also encourages confidence in your own skills. It’s not as difficult as many people think and you don’t have to break the bank with spaceship looking planes.
They really are ugly to me, and then their price is even more ugly.
thought about that when he said handplanes were super expensive to buy. Of course they are if you get those stupid Bridge City things that aren't even that great. Why would I want a plane where the sides are screwed on and made from alu, so it isn't even usable on a shooting board. Just get a normal iron plane and be happy.
@@johndoe920 I feel for the people that buy them because of dumb takes like this. I was a newbie not long ago and bought a jointmaker pro because of stumpynubs. It just collects dust after quickly realizing its a dumb gimmick for someone doing something very specific I can't even think of.
All my hand planes are old, and I never pay more than $20-30 for them. If I'm going to have to go through all the set up and sharpening even spending hundreds on one, I might as well just do the same thing to an antique from the flea market. I've got a few old wooden body planes and they are honestly the best ones I have, better than the stanley's in my experience.
@@matts.8342 the good old wooden ones are not bad, I just can't deal with the setting up. I'm too lazy to poke a tool with a little hammer for half an hour when the same thing could be done by turning a knob a few turns. But that's mostly just me not wanting to put in the practice.
You should definitely wear a dust mask.I mean really
For the clamps I would suggest pipe clamps they are easier to set up than clamping together clamps and with just the jaws you can have any length of clamp.
Are the Festools yours or they sponsored? Either way, is it worth the extra money to buy Festools?
@@rocketman13f51 I do not understand what you are asking
I have to wonder why there would be a reason to install hard maple edges if they are then covered with laminate. Seems that putting the laminate directly on the edge of the doubled up MDF would provide just as solid an edge since the Jami ate would prevent the MDF from chipping or gouging (at least unless you gouged all the way through the laminate first).
A,so, a tip for preventing T-tracks from lifting out of the top. Instead of screws, use machine screws and a washer and nut under the bench or place threaded inserts in the material under the T-track and use machine screws into them. Plus a little blue loctite to be sure the machine screws stay tight. And you can always drill and countersink some additional holes in the bottom of the T-track if you want to reduce chance of bending between mounting points. These methods will work for anyone except the Hulk? And remember, the tracks are only aluminum so not intended to hold against super forces!
I really like how you did the ad AS YOU WORKED, showing both! I usually jump ahead when they pop up, but I got what I wanted while you did what you needed, well done! Definitely a unique approach! You just got yourself a new subscriber!
Contact cement for attaching two pieces of MDF is pretty reliable as well and you can align it with sticks that you can slip out as you drop the top sheet into place. A little pressure after the two pieces are in place will assure it will never come apart. Laminate countertops are permanently attached this way
I use wooden dowels every time for that purpose
*Important!!!* MDF dust is REALLY bad for your lungs. It isn't just wood. There's a ton of glue in there for starters, but there's also a load of different chemicals in there as well.... anything from stuff to kill mould all the way through to stuff to extend the time it takes to start burning. The last thing you want to do is breath that dust into your lungs, so please make sure you wear a suitable dust mask when working with it (and not one of those cheap ones that never fit your face correctly).
No, the hand plane is not insanely expensive to purchase. Nobody says that you have to rush out and buy a brand new Lie Neilsen or Wood River. A used Stanley or comparable plane would suffice and sharpening isn't as bad as you make it out to be.
By the time I buy all the special tools shown in this video, I could have bought a nice bench! 🤪
In my younger years I worked with a neighbor doing cabinet refinishing with Formica :).. I also worked in a shop actually making the door for the cabinet doors as well. I have a few years under my belt working with this product.. With that said you have found a very effective way of putting down the sheet of Formica without it sticking when and where it should not.. and destroying the entire project. Looks like you got it down brother.. congrats. Top folks... have a very clean area where you are doing the gluing.. if anything gets on that glue that can cause a bump the project will be ruined... eyeball the hell out of the table and the Formica for anything that may have gotten on the glue before putting the 2 together or the project will be ruined. Let the glue get tacky to the touch but not dry.
Super impressed by your recovery fix on the bench dog depth of hole problem. I would have sat down and cried. Well done. Dude, you need to get into a nice HUGE shop. Wishing you the very best. AWSOME !
The correct pronounciation of chamfer is "Chu" with a hard "C". Just like "Chuck".
IF it was "Shu" as in "Shucks" it would be spelled with an "S".
Doesn't matter if your American or European, both pronounciations are the same (except brits tend to soften the "r")
Nice job on the homemade MFT Table! It looks very nice and the dovetail groove on the sides will definitely work fine! I 100% agree on the jig to create the dog holes. The Woodpecker's version is tedious to use at best. Not everything they make is the best solution.
Learn to spell and punctuate before you start presenting yourself as an authority on pronunciation - a word which you manage to mispell.
@@chippysteve4524 Learn to spell "misspell."
'Chamfer' is indeed 'shamf'r' in the non Americano speaking world
An 8*4 mdf does NOT weigh anywhere near 100 lbs. More like 77 - (37.5 kg in real money)!
Guy uses about 20,000$ of festool equipment as weights to laminate MDF for a cheap DIY workbench ... that tracksaw would cost me about as much as two months of rent ... lumber prices doubling ...
I think i will let go of woodworking all together
Two years ago I bought the Woodpeckers jig. HATED it! Bought the Parf system, LOVE it. I don't do woodworking for money and it was really depressing to realize that I had wasted over $200.
This is the best video of what not to do. Ingenius! Let me spend $10,000 for a $400 beginner table!
The Tee Track woodworkers are youtube woodworkers who do booogie stuff. So they generally paper down on glue ups and got all sorts of disposable income to justify a lot of the stuff, and then.. they sometimes use it, most of the time down.
Because it was probably a sponsored video thing.
I don't even really like dogholes in the bench myself. Which sucks, cause my 4x8 bench has no overlay for clamping except in 3 spots which are designed for the table saw to nest into when i'm using it for outfeed.
People need to learn the glories of saw horses.
You water proof the top and bottom but then you leave the inner surface of the dog holes untreated. I’d treat those as well. If you don’t want to change the dimension of the inside of the dog hole, I suggest thinning polyurethane 1:1 with mineral spirits. Then soak the inside of each hole with a paintbrush, it’ll soak into the MDF but shouldn’t leave a surface coat of urethane. It’ll take a while to dry, a week or two. But the 1:1 mixture will waterproof each dog hole. I used to do some astronomy, dew was a problem for untreated particle board. I’ve used the 1:1 several times to totally waterproof pieces of particle board and Masonite. If the 1:1 raises grain inside the dog hole, you can use your dog hole reamer to restore the accurately sized holes.
Rather than gluing two MDF sheets, make a torsion box, you can even use thinner MDF, add a sacrificial medite top. If you glue this up on several sheets of MDF then you jave a flat table good for furniture making.
I just use pony clamps that fit on 3/4" pipe, and have different lengths of pipe. they are certainly sloppier than parallel jaw clamps, but work in most cases plus I have 10" to 10' clamps when I need them.
For dog holes i have a grid of 3/8 holes drilled all the way thru w/ 5/16 tgnuts underneath. I keep a bin of 5/16 bolts and washers handy, along w/ some scraps of 2x2 that have 3/8 holes in them for clamping stuff down
You should NOT quit your current job to do woodworking, and DEFINITELY NOT teaching people how to do it. Also, you should check your lungs considering how much MDF cutting in such a small, closed space.
Haha, I ran in exactly the same issue. I have a 34mm MDF and was exited to use the clamps from my tracksaw track. Aaah, great, it didn't work. I'll still have to unscrew the worktop and chamfer the holes from the other side.
I picked up a 10$ 3d-printed template for drilling the holes into the mft with a forstner bit. It worked quite nicely.
You should use water based contact cement. Not cheap, I think we pay about $125 CAD for a gallon. But it works at least as well as the toluene based stuff, with no loss of brain cells! It’s designed to be used in the cabinetry industry, but can be used for any job regular contact adhesive is used for.
There's a lot to be said for a bench top made of 3 to 4 inches of solid timber that can be sanded or planed off to get a fresh surface when needed, combined with a couple of vises, a few bench dogs, and some strategically placed holes teamed up with holdfasts. But guess that's too old to be sexy anymore.
You are absolutely right. Traditional type benches have been around for over 100 years for a reason. Tried and true. But then I’m sure like most woodworkers you went through your “ gimmick” phase. Like Eric is in. The vast majority of hobbyists woodworkers, if they become serious about the hobby,eventually build some form of traditional workbench. Usually after they have built at least a few of these gimmick benches. Fortunately for me I got a copy of The Workbench book by Scott Landis when it was first published, and built a copy of Frank Klauz bench ( with a few mods to fit my space) That was 35+ years ago and it has always done EVERYTHING I ever needed to do. In a matter of seconds. With just a few accessories like dogs and holdfasts. Again tried and true solutions. I have bought my fair share of other “gimmicks” though. And BTW I started in a 1 car garage, built in the 1930s so it is sized for a model A ,with a cabinet saw with an out feed table, a jointer,a planer and a full sized bandsaw so for those that say there isn’t room, I say BS.
And for “ it’s too nice so I won’t use it” You treat it with the same respect you should treat ANY tool. In the words of John Economaki “ Quality Is Contagious” The first thing he needs to,learn is stop using so damn much glue. If it is dripping off your glue up,more than just one or 2 small drops you are using way too much. You do your glue up wipe up a couple of small drips with a rag and keep working. If it stars to get a little battle scared run a plane over it and you’re good for a couple more years.
when doing the top cover piece use lathes of wood to seperate the laminate and MDF instead of the "Betsie " cramps much easier to with draw
10:30 "My buddy Ronnie has a great grandmother that always told me the importance of protection..."
She clearly has no "ruhgrats".
I found that adding the laminate is overkill. I built mine 12 years ago and I just have bare MDF, I wiped on shellac and paste wax. Nothing sticks to it. Once a year or so, I’ll do a light sanding and reapply the finish.
I would 10000% lose those doghole plugs within 20 minutes of installation.
I’ve been Down the T track and dog or should I say rabbit hole and I don’t like either one. Here’s what has been absolutely indispensable for me. Install a 1 1/2” wide board on one long side of the work bench 1 1/2” below the surface. Bore several 3/8” vertical holes down through the board. Get a 1 1/2” X 1 1/2” quad track aluminum extrusion the length of the bench from 80/20 aluminum. The 4 tracks fit 3/8” carriage bolts perfectly. Install some long ones along one side of the quad track, one for each of the holes you drilled. Drop this assembly into the holes, add a washer and nut to each bolt securing the quad track to the workbench. You now have both a horizontal and vertical track along the entire front of your workbench. You now have a track even with the top and face of your bench. It’s extremely versatile, rigid and won’t pull out. Get a couple of those Kreg clamps (the ones you showed that hook into the key hole plate you said you couldn’t move). They will slide the entire length of your bench horizontally or vertically. Now you can clamp any size work vertically or horizontally along the entire face of the work bench including long boards. You will find all kinds of jigs and fixtures you can attach using the carriage bolts I mentioned. I made a Moxon vice that attaches to the front of my workbench and a jig for routing mortises. I don’t need no fancy domino! Your imagination is the only limitation as to the creative ways to use this addition to your workbench. You’ll be amazed at what you can do with it.
I got an idea, how about you make a TH-cam video. That way we can all understand what you are describing with 100% clarity. It just may get some likes and shares too. Just a suggestion.
Love this idea! Could you possibly post some pictures that would help me duplicate your setup?
What is Quad track?
@@johnrobinson1020 video posted at @randsipe224
Dig this hole. Now fill this hole. You're in the Army, now.
Thanks, I enjoyed watching the video, I made the same mistake with the double thickness top but I just bought 2 out of birch ply, ready made, for significantly less than the jig to make them costs!
I think if you're going to use a planer sled, you should put in the other way. The planer will pull against the stop, no need for glue or taping the wood down. Try it.
There is no such thing as the perfect work bench.
There will always be compromise.
It's the metal dog hole pugs that did it for me and earned my subscription! haha
to avoid routing slots into the black table top, if you were not using it as a permanent outfeed table, you could lower the black top and add flat sheet the thickness of the height difference that sits between the two mitre tracks and have locating pegs on that sheet that allow it to stay in position. If needed could add two more sheets on the outer edges if the one in the middle was not enough.
That MDF glue up will not be flat!
You're likely to grow to hate that bench top. You should have laminated the MDF prior to applying the edging and not put laminate on the edges. Regardless of how careful you are at some point you're going to hit those edges and when you do they will chip. That chip now becomes a point of snag and the laminate starts to chip and break more. The same issue is likely to happen with the dog holes.
At work, we used to have a large, heavy work table with a few slabs of MDF on top, and use a few screws on a new slab on whenever the old one got too uneven.
That Woodpeckers jig works fine if you make two passes and vacuum the dust out between passes. That makes sure there's no dust keeping the bushing from fully contacting the jig. I did this and never had to use a mallet or pliers with the registration pins.
Correction: if you do enjoy the video, the chances are you will LOVE the book. (And really appreciate the occasional references to things that happen in the video, but not specifically in the book.)
big question bro, do you know how well does this Formica stand against chipping when already applied to a plywood???
does it chip as easy as melamine??? I know that with the right blade it will cut perfectly, but sometimes a certain saw doesn't provide a blade for that application
Solid wood from laminated 2x4s, 13" wide with a 12" tool well, metal wood stop built in, face vise on one side. to hold down flat pieces I use a clamped stop and a hinged piece of wood that when flatted puts a great hold on the edge of wood held buy the metal stop. No holes, no tracks.
1. Mill 184 holes
2. Chamfer 184 holes
3. Ream 184 holes
4. Plug 184 holes
I wonder how many of these holes that will ever be used.
To your point about saving money with workarounds, the workarounds were how it was done before someone created a fancy jig or tool to do it. You can do most projects with the basics and a lot of time and patience. The jigs and tools only save time and money in the long run. If you’re not cranking out multiples of the same thing, a cheap temp jig, or lots of patience, will still get to through most jobs
I liked your point about work arounds being the way it was done in the past. My dad was a cabinet maker, trained in the 1930’s…he knew lots of “workarounds”
I stopped paying any attention to TH-camr product suggestions when most of the items I've bought ended up being not nearly as good as suggested. Case in point: the last one I listened to was the Milwaukee electrician's combo screwdriver bit for outlet/switch mounting screws. The suggestion is since the bit is designed precisely for that combo head screw, the bit wouldn't cam out of it. That's completely false. I get just as many cam-outs using that than I do a regular Ph2/3 bit. The best option ended up being what I already had; a Robertson (square) num. 1 bit.
Now on that purchase I only wasted about $5. However, I've spent a couple of hundred dollars in products I either very rarely use, or are sub-par quality that leads me to never use them at all. Those tracks seem like a great idea, however I've noticed you have to invest quite a sum of money to have enough to cut the full length of sheet goods. I bought the Kreg Accu-cut tracks that cost $90 for a 4ft. length. If I want to have enough to cut 8 ft. sheet goods it ends up costing $180...JUST for the tracks to do the job.
I've yet to bring myself to buy the other tracks so now I'm stuck with a system that has limited uses. I'll own that it's completely my fault for buying them. I just wish I paid more attention to some of the suggestions, lol.
I can’t believe you don’t wear even a dust mask while cutting all that mdf in an enclosed garage. MDF dust floats in the air and settles on everything. You gotta imagine that the same fine dust is being sucked into your lungs with every breath.
So.. you have festool track with holes, you have festool router, and you do not get festool router bit designed to make 20mm holes in one plunge cut (part no 491072)?
Instead, you mess with this jig, copy rings, smaller diameter bit...
Bit too obvious...
I also watched the Pedulla video on his workbench build. He had a different perspective for his workbench. I agree with both though. Pedulla is a perfectionist who’s also artistic with his builds. So having a workbench that inspires his artistic abilities is a totally valid reason for spending all that time and effort building that special workbench.
A new work bench was already in my future. And I was already planning on getting one of those dog hole reamers. That seems like a pretty nifty tool. And I appreciate your transparency with tools instead of just paddling whatever garbage is out there for money, so thanks. And I particularly like that you used black epoxy to make the slide grooves blend in with the rest of the top.
Did you test the first hole after the chamfer on the underside, or wait until you had chamfered all the holes like you did making the holes from the top?