We've been lied to? -
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 มี.ค. 2024
- Today I discuss what you got to have to help take & produce those stunning Wildlife Portraits we see all over social media and what to be able to take them as well ourselves.
it comes down to availability of LIGHT and the Quality of that light.
NO ONE IS Lying to US!
![[Vowel]물고기는 물에서 살아야 해🐟🤣Fish have to live in the water #funny](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/3G9MH063Cx4/mqdefault.jpg)
beautiful photography, great video, very enjoyable
Thanks so much - it's appreciated
Yep. Here's the rule. 'Listen to everything. Accept it ONLY as a STARTING point in your own research! Then use what you've learnt to produce what you want!". BTW Image stabilized lenses and bodies can help too. I've got plenty of sharp shots at 270mm on an APS-C hand held around 1/100th. Tamron IS. No body IS. I tend to let auto tell me what's the optimum speed, f/stop and ISO. I know if I want to do ONE of those differently, I need to change one of the others to compensate.
Thanks for your input and watching
One reason that the Pro's don't tell us about those ISO issues is that they don't have ISO issues. The higher end cameras don't have the issues with low light. Thanks for sharing your thoughts.
True my R5 is better in low light than my 90D - Thanks for watching
Maybe I misunderstand you, but the ONLY way to freeze action of any kind is with a high shutter speed (or a moving camera) Of course, sufficient light to enable that depends on aperture and ISO. The notion of required shutter speed as a ratio of 1 over focal length is NOT a direct relationship at all, just a rule of thumb. Of course, a tripod will enable you to use virtually any shutter speed as long as the subject is perfectly fixed and you have time to wait for the exposure time to elapse. Stopping motion of a moving subject AND getting a proper exposure require either a larger aperture or higher ISO . But the only way to stop motion from a fixed position is a high shutter speed, which depends at the speed of the motion. I don't think I've ver seen a TH-cam video by a professional that suggested otherwise. If I misunderstood what you are saying I apologize!
Well, maybe you did or maybe I'm not clear in my explanations? - in either case I'll try here again - many Tubers for Wildlife clearly state that you should never go below 1 over your focal length - in my case that means my SS should never fall below 600 - but as I stated that only works IF, you have available light - I have many sharp Eagle photos at 160th of Second Shutter. on a Tripod. I would say one doesn't need HIGH SHUTTER to freeze action - just adequate - as you stated the speed of the motion matters as well - which is what I was trying to point out as well. - Thanks for watching.
And don't forget to take your camera of auto white balance if you don't want to lose the character of your light or spend time getting it back in post. You want the colour cast you got out of bed for, you don't want it auto neutralised, 5500K is a good place to set yourself as a start until you get used to what you like yourself and what your camera responds to, this is the value for old fashioned 'daylight' film.
Awesome pics,ive been messing around with Canon dslrs for year's,i still take hundreds if not thousands of below par images for every decent one but regardless of that i just enjoy getting out there & photographing wildlife,thanks for an informative video i for one really appreciate it.
awe- Thanks for the kind comment and for watching - I TOO, still take loads of sub-par pics - but I do have the most fun while doing so. Thanks again!
Time value priority, auto ISO, and a higher end ISO invariant camera, with a higher fps rate, and better programmable autofocusing scenarioes, are part of the secret sauce, as well as practice, practice, practice. Know your equipment so you don't need to fumble for buttons, read the manual, and reviews, use groundpods, monopods, and tripods, ball heads, gimbals, and panorama heads, L-brackets to change from horizontal to vertical without losing your basic composition, lever release instead of screw clamps, as well as IS when hand holding, and know when to turn it off. There is much more to wildlife photography than the exposure triangle, bokeh, and composition, and yes photography is all about the light, that's why we chase early morning light, sunrises, and sunsets. Golden pond doesn't conveniently happen at 2 p.m., and by 8 a.m. those raccoons are mostly back in their hollow trees, and the green herons are done with breakfast and napping. The majority of great shots don't happen by chance, learn the behavior of the animals you are planning to shoot, and what their biotope looks like. Even some of my macro shots of flying insects took me two years to develop a technique to get great shots of them every time. Hummingbirds also require their own technique. Most of all never give up, photography is an ongoing journey of learning, you never stop.I've done this for 56 years and it's as exciting as day one, you never stop improving, any photographer who tells you that they aren't learning, or experimenting anymore is full of it, and their body of work boring, repetitive, and unimaginative.
Loads of truth in your statement - Thanks for commenting and watching.
Great Photos...you are on the right track
Thank you so much
Good video. I recommend learning in shutter priority before trying manual as it adjust your ISO and exposure as you adjust your shutter speed. I always try to get the lowest shutter speed needed to freeze the action and keep the ISO as low as possible. Every photoshoot has different lighting and that lighting can change in a short period of time. It's also wise to take some test shots while you are waiting for opportune moment.
TRUE - Thanks for watching
Stunning Photos Sir
Thanks you for that compliment and for watching
that special setting is practice, I have a starter camera from 2011 the Canon EOS Rebel T3 with a Sigma 150-600mm and quite a few of my photos are amazing.
The camera writes what the user and the lens tell it to, the more we get out there the better we get at setting the camera up for the light.
Also very TRUE - Thanks for watching
Continue your journey. Very nice images.
Thank you for the compliment, especially for watching!
very true.
Thanks for watching
If you are shooting at high ISO it is critical that you get the exposure correct in camera, not post. It is counter intuative, but you will get sharper cleaner images if you raise the ISO and expose correctly for the scene. As opposed to unsderexposing with a lower ISO and raising the shadows in post.
I can go up to ISO 25 000 and get good images on a 32", 4k monitor after processing with Topaz and you do not pixel peep. That is on a Nikon. Z8. On my micro 4/3 OM-1 I get good detailed images up to IS0 12 800.
YOU MUST EXPOSE CORRECTLY IN CAMERA TO GET GOOD DETAILED IMAGES AT HIGH ISO NOT IN POST.
Thanks for your input and watching - Have you seen some of these video's that talk about ISO invariance? I've been looking into this to see if it's a real thing?
Your post makes me scratch my head…..I have Em1 Mark III mated to zuiko f4 300 mm , 12800 ISO? …are you kidding ? I know OM-1 sensor is SLIGHTLY better but that ISO is head shaker since you will lose details with Topaz ( removing noise is at THE EXPENSE OF DETAILS….Please folks keep it in mind, Denoise is going to take details away. Like what this video is about …GOOD LIGHT is the key to stunning images, not crappy light and high ISO with TOPASE Denoise.
@@photozen8398Watch this short video on the OM-1 at ISO 12 800. I also get similar results.
What settings do you recommend?
well hopefully I don't offend you here, but as to what? as I stated in the video there is NO magic settings, they will always be determined by your subject and the availability and quality of the light you have at any given moment. for example, just yesterday morning I'm set up in my blind waiting on Wood Ducks to show and to my surprise they did, very early, before blue hour even, my settings were 1/60 Sec SS - F/4 (wide open) and my ISO was 6400 to complete the exposure triangle, that setting gave me the Histogram I always look for (on this subject anyways) the Histogram touching the bar to the right - but you could double the SS and the Iso and the Histogram would read the same and I did that and took some shots as well, like 250 to be exact - I have 1 out of each set that are JUST OKAY - not even shareable in my book. half hour later I have enough light (its overcast) my settings are 800ss F/5 and 1250 Iso and I get dozens tack sharp shareable and print quality photo's, so, you see the light matters but those last setting would NOT work for a Wood Duck in flight - hope this helps.
You are correct about the ISO on your 90D. My 7DII was similar..but my R6 is an ISO warrior and, combined with Topaz Denoise, I have few concerns about ISO.
With regard to tripods, if you're in a blind or photographing in a pretty much single camera elevation angle, a tripod will help and a gimbal will help more. But, if you need to react to wildlife from multiple angles or directions, the tripod will get in the way and handheld is the way to go.
Your 600mm is heavy and probably needs a tripod. I'm older and can't handhold such a lens for long, but a slower, lighter, cheaper lens is a good solution. If you're still using Canon you should take a good look at the RF 100-500L or the RF 200-800 are really good choices and, if you are still using a DSLR, the EF 70-300L is a secret weapon and the EF 100-400L is excellent.
Light is important but it is manageable with good gear, modern software, and thoughtful working methods.
Thanks for your thought-out reply - you're spot on in my OP - I even have the EF 100-400 V2 Lens - works great on my 90D - Auto-focus is somewhat un-reliable on the R5 for some reason - in eye detection mode. I have been really looking at the the new 200-800 - the F9 scares the crap out of me for my style of shooting - most days I'm headed home when I see others showing up - Just may have to rent it and give it a try - thanks again
Forget below 600 ! Practice on stills , then hike it up , weather is everything (light is all) also not everyone edits to get great shots , but it helps most newbies
Thanks for watching and commenting - much appreciated.
That is why D6 is still more expensive than z9 ( gosh already they have discount on the ZZZZ but not a single drop of price on D6)….noise….that is the magic key for times when light does not help but you can still pull stunning photos with proper lenses that will resolve.
Thanks for watching and your input
get something like DxO Pure Raw so you can push you ISO and still get clean images. The better de-noising packages this year are doing a really good job and most have a free trial.
@@daemon1143 - I use DXO myself - works really good - the DXO-4 is on my list to upgrade. - Thanks for commenting
@@daemon1143 no substitution of clean image from low megapixel sensor with large eyeballs....may be i stand right if next z9 is 20 megapixel... 😉
Wildlife is very difficult to achieve with older gear as you do need lots of bright light. I started with eos 7D and any photos over 800 ISO were not that good, however my R7 I can push the ISO to 10,000 !
You have to learn to get the maximum results out of the kit you have, as you are wealthy I can not afford Sony A1, or Canon R3, or nikon Z9 with 600mm f4 prime lens. This kit will cost the best part of £20,000. Not our normal gear of used £500-£800 camera and lens,...lol
to be clear I'm far from being "WEALTHY" - my gear (6oomm Prime) i purchased used for half of a new one or double that of a good new 100-400 L from Canon - I appreciate you watching and the comment
Its all about exposures, pixel density. If it gets enough exposures you wont be able to tell the differences of the cameras. You can get pro result with vintages, if the light is right and you know what you are doing. The gear race is an over exaggerated hype, by insecure people. Although there does exist bad lenses that just dont work.
Thanks for your input and watching - much appreciated.
Each camera has a different sensor sensitivity. My Canon 5d is so much better at high ISO than my Canon 6d is. (And, the modern mirrorless cameras are even better.) But, the other trick I use is to let my ISO go a little higher and then using Topaz Denoise AI software to remove that noise. Not every photo can be recovered by denoise SW, but a lot of them can be.
This is also TRUE - the Denoise software's out there are a game changer as well. Thanks for watching
Light is everything, I often shoot birds in flight and its a big difference for the final outcome, compare to dim light, shoot micro 3/4, whats maybe a bit more affected by bad light. Also all this youtuber who make photo containt, I saw a Guy he had a scrappy Raw picture, completly looking underexposed, than with the expensive photo editor , he was able to make completly looking different photo and he was proud, I am not sure, but maybe thats photography in the future? Not for me, most of my photo I edite with Snapseed, what is more than good enough, if your photo is not your revenue center.
Thanks for your comment and watching
I thought they were lovely images 👌
Thank you and thanks for watching
They also forget to mention editing software, which can make an ordinary photo look great.
That’s the truth as well - thanks for watching
People use flash a lot. And then tripods. But you are right, trying to fight the light situation with iso makes no sense. I have found it better to just try and show what I see in the shade if I am in the shade. Also your pictures are great!
I've yet to try flash myself - Thanks for watching and the compliment - much appreciated.
No one is using flash for wildlife.
@@davidroberts5535 - I actually know a few guys that do - they use set-ups with perches and/or rocks put out some meal worms and use flash - typically they are limited to a slow shutter speed - outside of this controlled environment, you'd be correct - it would be useless to even try, in my OP. Thanks for commenting and watching