The TRUTH Behind the ISO 100 MYTH that the PROS Know!
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In this weekâs episode, we discuss the truth behind the ISO 100 myth that professional photographers know. When you're a beginner photographer, there's many techniques and "rules" you hear about. One of the most common misconceptions is the ISO 100 myth, which is the belief that one must always shoot at ISO 100 in order to create the best and cleanest possible photograph. In this video, I'll put this myth to the test to see if you can really even notice the difference between a high ISO image versus the same photograph taken at ISO 100. I guarantee you'll be surprised by the results. I hope you enjoy this week's video and as always thanks so much for watching! - Mark D.
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ðĨQUESTION: Do you say "EYE-SOH" or do you say "I.S.O."?
Eye-so
I Say Izzoð
EYE-SOH
I.S.O. gang checking in.
EYE-SOH" because that how the ISO organization states it should be pronounced.
My question ....... why do the breezes wait until you want to take a photo before they start to blow???????
I know, right!
It's like the breeze saying "cheese."
ðĪĢðĪĢðĪĢI thought that only happens to me!
EXACTLY! Easter, we wanted family pics... the girls took position... the breeze had their hair standing straight up. It was just crazy. Not two minutes before , it was dead calm!
ððð there's always breeze! Try to take a phocus stack, an hdr image or an hdr phocus stack, you will get breeze. I think it's part of our cameras firmware
I am old. It was A.S.A. so I have always said it as I.S.O....I may be wrong but , does is really matter? I have the position that I want my ISO high enough that I can use a decent shutter speed as well as keeping my f-stop kind of in the middle. However, I am just a hobby photographer. No one sees my pictures... rarely are they shared. It is always a dance... trying to balance the triangle to get the picture we are looking for. That's the fun of photography!
Haha, I also thought Iâd pronounce ISO the way I do because of the way I used to pronounce ASA back in the film day - except I say eye-son and said ah-saâĶ thereâs enough space on this planet for both versions I hope ð
Same here, it was always A-S-A, and now it's I-S-O. Oldsters unite!
Iso or asa is important for film to get the other 2 correct. However digital... not sure.
Then there was also DIN in the ASA days.
I work professionally Shutter speed is important to me especially when using flash and ambient light together
Ok. Haven't finished the video. But you up close to the monitor looking with one eye up against it made my day. ð
ð
@@MarkDenneyPhoto a few seconds of it need to be made into a gif.
Yes a GIF from the perspective of the monitor ðģ
It's funny listening to you as a landscape photographer talking about going above ISO 100 when as mainly a bird shooter I routinely shoot at anywhere from 1000 - 3200!
Especially with todays brilliant noise reduction software and sensor tech those days of worrying too much are gone.
As the old saying goes "I'd much rather have a noisy sharp shot than and clean blurry one"
But after all, it's not just about the sums. A high ISO entails a whole host of consequences. Is it possible to see your photos smashed at 3200 ISO somewhere?
ââ@@JoannaMalak
The big problem with iso is that it's basically artificial. You're just underexposing and boosting it in the sensor instead of in post. Old cameras improved noise because their DAC didn't capture the whole sensor dynamic range, but since 2012 or so sony sensors have been pretty much iso invariant, 14 bit, and makes little difference between brightening in post vs in camera. When you shoot high iso, reminder that you lose a stop of dynamic range for every doubling of iso. If you like you clouds not clipping and also edit to bring the shadows up.. you want that extra couple stops of dynamic range unless you want it to act like a 20 year old camera in the edit. I use auto ISO. If they're not enough light, there's not enough light, but it's not like the landscape will run away from you.
Cracked me up that Gavin Hardcastle figured out how to work his way into your video!
So well put. Using the tools you have available to create the image and/or feeling about the subject in front of you. Thanks for sharing.
Back in the before times, I remember taking my 100 foot rolls of ISO 400 film, loading it into a canister, and then shooting it at 1600 at sporting events because film with a decently high-enough ISO was too expensive for a high school student to afford. I'm just now getting back into photography (now mirrorless, I guess) and people refusing to shoot above 100 is one of the weirdest things I've ever heard.
According to the International Organization for Standardization, the abbreviation for their name is ISO. On their website, they go on to explain that you should pronounce the abbreviation as a word: eye-soh and that the abbreviation and its pronunciation are based on the Greek root word for equal: isos.
Thatâs interestingâĶeye-soh sounded right to me because of the Greek prefix (as in isomorphic etc.), and when he asked the question I thought of that, but I never would have imagined thatâs actually where it came from
When I got back into photography with Pentax DSLR's, which were fairly good with pushing the ISO. Down the road I switched to Nikon, found that in most cases ISO6400 is as far as I like to push things - so now ISO is maybe the 4th or 5th thing I worry about. Composition, shutter speed, aperture etc. are much more important. So I really like the fact that I can set the other two and just not worry about the ISO. I'll let the camera choose what is needed - today's camera's really do a good job with noise (and we typically have editing tools to reduce noise).
If you want real noise - push Tri-X to 800 or 1600. LOL
Good argument for shooting in manual, and setting ISO to automatic, and letting it float. That is precisely how I shot airshows for years.
Me too works a treat.
Same.
I shoot sports and NEED my shutter speed high (3200 if possible). Shooting in manual with the aperture wide open & shutter set to 3200, the ISO has to "float" on Auto. I also prefer to set the ISO well above 100, so that it has room to "breathe". I achieve this by altering the shutter speed even faster to keep the ISO around 320. That way if it need to dip down to 200 or 100, it can.
Could not agree more!
Requires a small change in how you think about metering since you really manipulate exposure compensation more once you have chosen your shutter or f-stop for conditions, which at an air show are pretty static usually.
Auto iso. Aperture priority
Came to find out about the ISO 100 myth I've heard absolutely no one talk about and you didn't disappoint. Great service. ð
Thanks for reminding me I should already know this, good presentation.
Great video and advise about ISO...I begin to tremble whenever I push beyond ISO 400. Thanks for a dose of courage to push it!
Cheers Mark, thank you for an awesome video, sometimes we forget how good camera's are now. Love the SSS, will help me greatly in remembering ð
Eye-so
Great video! Just discovered your channel. Getting back into photography now that I'm retired.
Liked and subbed!
Beautifil photo samples and great advices on using ISO ! Thanks a lot !
Good stuff!!!
Great shirt for this weeks video!
What a great illustration of the difference. And wow, what a beautiful area to hike around in; love those foggy mountain spots. You can almost smell the air from the video
I agree also especially considering the fact that there are very powerful softwares out these days to reduce noise even more without compromising the image quality.
Awesome video as always Mark
Great video! I also of the opinion that the shutter speed is the most important, more than ISO. Great video!
Wow the details in the water in the waterfall of the Olympic Park are just perfect. Exactly as I like them. Awesome.
I follow your approach as well, well put ð
I am just at a little over six minute and I already learned something that is very useful. Thank you, Mark ð
Good thoughts and definitely going to practice increasing my Eye-S-Oh to increase the shutter to help with increased detail Iâm wanting especially when handholding my camera - thanks ðļ
I say eyeso. Great discussion today on a subject that I haven't commonly heard! Thank you Mark!
I so happy when you release a new video.
âĪïļ
Thanks a lot. Very inspiring. take care! GÃķran in Latvia
Very good information. I also believe that most keep low ISO for safety/security/snobbery/vanity reasons. Best Regards, Jay
Nice and informative video....i think modern day camera today manage the noise way better now but in the past It was signitificaly visible at highter ISO .
thanks for the info....I see that fototripper photobombed your video at 7:04.... ð
I probably say "EYE-SOH" most of the time, but I also remember when my film boxes had ASA/DIN on them! :) When shooting action (birds in flight) I'm still using 9-10 year old Nikons so I'm not shooting with the latest and greatest but those cameras are way ahead the 20 year old Nikons I used to shoot when it comes to usable higher ISO.
Hi Mark, freezing the video for a few seconds I quickly decided the one on the right was the one shot at ISO 100, from the superior clarity and resolution of the rock face to the lower right of the image. I have to say, though, I would not have put money on my assessment!!! Still, I was blown away when you said the image on the left was shot at 12,800. The largest ISO I ever shot was at 2,000 and that showed minimal grain, but the "trick"/technique I learnt is letting in enough light from what was a relatively stationary scene to illuminate the sensor, thus preventing excessive grain. It's not necessarily your high ISO that produces the grain but how you "marry" shutter speed with aperture value!. Enjoyed your video, as usual. Cheers, Frederick Jansohn
Great video and good advice. Actually Mark I'm so old I sometimes catch myself still saying ASA from the old film days. You are correct , go ahead and use the higher ISO. I was reluctant to do so but it made a noticable improvement in my photos. The high end I use is 3200. The technology is much better now so use it!
Brilliant hoodie! Where did you get it from?
I.S.O. Thanks so much Mark for your efforts in making us better photographers, you are so good at making a point that I understand.
I use a canon r5 body with a zoom lens... whenever I raise the ISO too high to use a faster shutter (as my camera allows it go to VERY high, I was excited about this!), but when I'm editing, I get a wavy pattern on my images. It's frustrating because otherwise the photo would be perfect, considering the light and sharpness I was able to get in a low light, windy setting. What causes this? I'm an amateur nature photographer, so I'm sorry if this is basic knowledge. I don't see these waves until I'm working in photoshop. I apply filters using a program called the Nik collections and that's when they REALLY show up.
I tend to select my aperture and shutter speed for whatever artistic effect I am trying to achieve. I then treat ISO(eye-so) as a support of brightness control to get my desired exposure level
Yea I believe a lot of photographers are still shell shocked from the DLSR world when if we went over 400 ðððŽðŽ things got scary quick!!!
I'm still suffering film range anxiety, 10, 12, 24 or 36 shots, and I've been using digital cameras for over 25 years.
@@geoffc1862 Iâve started my career digital but Iâve never been spray and pray. A large Majority of my shots are well thought out. Iâve also learned more to edit money work in front of the computer less time shooting.
Camera, lenses, you need to know your equipment. I just shot a baptism in a church, no flash was allowed. Having a good lense with low aperture is a must. I don't like grainy pictures so I set my ISO range and I know well my lenses. Every situation is different. How good is your camera's stabilization system. Bottom line. Your technical knowledge is crucial. Great video. I always appreciate them.
Yeah, you make good points. Have had many shots that seemed fine on the LCD. But then i get home, look at them on the computer, and realize i didnât raise my SS high enough. Lots of great shots!
Thanks for alleviating my fear.
Great video, I think too you can pump up those numbers to get the right image.
I know in photography we shouldnt tell each other what to do, but what stood out to me in most of your photos is that the perspective tilts down a little too much in my opinion. Maybe you should look up a bit more, for more comforting photos.
Iâm so old I still say âASAâ!
What happend to DIN? lol
OG
How about Gost
I forgot what ASA stands for in DSLR Photography
@@Triplebuc50it stands for American Standards Association in relation to sensitivity of light to film. ð
More and more people need to understand about ISO I came from the film days I had no idea you could use higher IS0. No no problem bumping it up now.
As an old electronics engineer, I probably see it more from the electronically optimal side. There is a constant electronically generated noise, from all the chips in the device, that we can never escape. In order to get as clean images as possible, we need to keep the incoming signal (the light) as high as possible. This will give a high ratio between the light and the natural noise.
The same experiment done in low light conditions is guaranteed to give a much worse image with a high ISO.
As a bad amateur photographer, I will take advantage of every opportunity to get a good result when I bring home too many "big" pictures.ð Hooray for ISO 100 ðūðūðū
This was a great video. Coming from the portrait world, where most of us use ISO 100 to 200, this helps me to see why I need to adjust my thinking when going out shooting in landscape. Question, do you have a formula that you use to calculate what to set your ISO to when shooting at different settings?
Thanks Mark ð
Those Greenland iceberg images are just stunning, bravo!
Great stuff Mark. I'm an Eye Soh guy.
Hey Mark, If I may blow some smoke. Your channel is one of the few of hundreds I follow and learn from but I'll never miss one of your videos. You do a great job. I wanted to ask you this. I use micro 4 3.. GH5, GH6 and now g9ii. If I am using my 100mm to 400mm lens and I am zoomed in all the way in at 400mm (800mm equivalent) would I double the 400 or the 800 for my rule of thumb regarding shutter speed. ???? Also I was watching a bunch of solar eclipse videos. The one pro felt we should stick to the base iso so to get all the dynamic range possible. What do you think about that? I suppose it's true but not sure. Thanks again.
I've found recently that I really enjoy manual mode with auto ISO. I still get the creative control over SS & aperture, but without an additional setting to worry about. In the best case scenario the scene isn't noisy at all, but if it is, I can either use the newer denoising techniques or just embrace the photo with a bit of noise!
Great insights to give me confidence in "taking the shot" regardless of ISO. I'd like to know more about how you process high ISO shots and your thoughts on ETTR.
Basically always ETTR when you can. Boosting iso on modern (~2012+ Sony) sensors is just as good as boosting in post, short of hitting second base iso. You lose a stop of fynamic range per ISO stop because you throw away the brightest stop on the sensor. Cinema style cameras do better and shoot at ASA 800, really just 100 but underexposed by 3 stops so that you get 7-8 stops of highlights above middle grey instead of ~4 of stills cameras. Most noise in photos is individual light photons, so the more of those you have, the more tonality you have to work with for editing or such.
Great video! I remember when I first started I was terrified of raising the ISO super high but now Im so free with it.ð btw, love the hoodie. got one myself and its one of my favs
Informative video once again. To your pronunciation of ISO question - I say I.S.O. Probably because i used to say A.S.A in the film days so the cadence was the same.
i did a media photography/videography internship with a college when i got my first camera and i learned quickly not to be scared of higher iso (especially shooting apsc) as most of it was indoors with no extra lighting
itâs been a while since then and iâve started to forget that, especially with a modern sony camera, i need not be shy with my iso lol
Thanks Mark, excellent video you explained everything is easy to understand English for the pro or novice.
ISO is in fact an acronym or abbreviation for the International Organization for Standards. I know they are not in the correct order, but it wasn't my idea.
Looking forward to more of your videos.
Great video! It would be nice if you would give the shutter speed and aperture during your narration.
Hi Mark, great video. I typically say eye-soo. For the longest time I insisted on staying below ISO 400, and subsequently missed a lot of opportunities because I could not get the right settings. Now I set it to what it needs to be so that I get the shot. Maybe it is not portfolio worthy, but it is a reminder of what is possible if the conditions are different. When hand holding I often will set it to auto ISO. You mention IBIS, and how it has improved. My camera does not have IBIS, but if it did, could the lenses with image stabilization be used with IS turned on along side of the IBIS? I have never heard anyone talk about this. Thanks again.
I totally agree about shutter speed. Some other Shutter Speed/ISO considerations would be, dynamic range and subject sharpness. For an example, if you were photographing a propeller airplane in flight you would want the propeller to show motion and the airplane to be sharp.
Very good video
Hello Mark love your landscapes amazing images, the first example you showed the first image at ISO 100 to me looked to have better colour and contrast only slightly but still perceptible. I totally agree with you about being able to push ISO these days with better cameras and also the denoise feature in Lightroom. One gripe I do have though is please stop using pros do this pros know this, I have shot alongside people who are supposed to be pros and are clueless I have also shot along side some of the best club photographers in the UK and the are streets ahead. If this video had been from anybody else I would have probably clicked not interested just my little gripe keep up the great work.
Thanks!
The main issue I'm finding with ISO atm (pretty new to photography) is the dynamic range impact. It can be a struggle to not just be blowing out the sky and I know bumping the ISO up makes the dynamic range worse! Mainly shooting things where I want a good Shutter Speed (like sport or wildlife) so it's pretty much the most extreme circumstances possible, must have high shutter speed and can't just bracket the shots!
EYE-SOH - Great video. I regularly shoot at ISO 800-1600.
Thanks for the education. Would the type of camera one is using impact the ISO choice / quality of images at higher ISOs? Say a mirrorless vis a vis medium format? What would you advise? Thanks and keep it going...
Great video!!!' I'll refer to the surf photos as an example. When you are presented with a situation where shutter speed is a key factor it would seem shutter priority (or manually set shutter and aperture) would be used. So, do you actually "bump up" the ISO or to you allow auto ISO to do its thing? Yep, I'm still in a learning phase.
I need that hoodie!
Thanks for sharing the I.S.O. info. I used Nikon DSLR cameras for as long as I can remember and always tried to keep the ISO as low as possible. Now using a high MP count mirrorless camera I have been able to shoot with a much higher ISO but rarely in the past have I went as high as 500. I thought the more MP in the sensor the more noise? Thanks Mark.
Great video. How fast is your shutter speed typically to keep the leaves sharp in the forest? Also, what do you normally have your aperture set to? Definitely eye so.
Great video Mark! I think the idea that high ISOs will degrade your image somewhat is a leftover truism from the "old" film photography days. Shooting with an ISO 1000 film would make your images look like they were shot through a screen door. Modern digital cameras ( and software) do a great job with higher ISOs. That and increasingly better dynamic range is where I'd like to see camera manufacturers put their emphasis when releasing new models.
Being an old school photographer using A-S-A in the film days as separate letters, pronouncing the replaced I-S-O with individual letters as well just came naturally.
Software noise reduction has also improved a lot, even with cheaper options like ON1
I.S.O - GREAT Video man!!! So funny - I've been pushing my ISO alot more lately and yeah, it's great... Especially because I use M43, It's sort of opened up my world :) LOL
I think ISO is a misnomer. We should call it SNR for signal to noise ratio. The best way to ensure noise in your photo is to not feed your sensor enough signal. Great video,Mark.
Agreed on moving water Mark, the creamy look has been done to death. Here in the UK Editors are looking for the best print quality that means your base ISO, with certain exception,s.
I was out shooting spring flowers this week and had to bump up my iso to get a shutter speed that would prevent the flowers blurring in the breeze. Especially tough with close-up shots. By the way, eye so is correct.
Well said, I have for the most part adopted Auto ISO whether I am in M, A, S, or P modes and yes the images are all very good accross all of the camera brands I use, Nikon, Olympus, Canon, Lumix, Sony, etc. I don't have a Fuji and most likely never will.
I usually shoot in manual mode with auto ISO using my Canon camera. Seems to work well most the time but not always. If I'm shooting a longer exposure say 1/2 to 1 second or more then maybe use a ND filter with ISO set to 100. I'm in the woods a lot so like you said, a higher ISO is often needed to get the shot in low light. Thanks for the video!
Thanks Mark. I became a free ranger a few years ago, I set my SS and Aperture to fit the scene, then review the ISO (I say Eye-So) . If it is too high/low, adjust, rinse, repeat.
Thanks Mark! If possible, could you discuss EV Compensation: what it is; how to use it; and situations where it maybe required? Thanks in advance.
I started selling cameras in 1980, when film-speed ratings were changing from A.S.A. (American Standards Association) to I.S.O. (International Standards Organization), so for me, the name referred to more than film sensitivity, but the reason D.I.N. (the much more arbitrary film speed rating system that was then used in Europe) was eliminated. Thus, I'll probably always say "I.S.O."
As photographers we donât always take photos for the average, ânormal â person to see it. Many of us actually take photos for themselves, only to enjoy the technology in the camera. As an astrophotographer, resolution is quite important, if possible I want to see the smallest galaxies deep in my image.
I flip-flop between I.S.O. and Eye-Soh, too. I totally forgot about A.S.A. until I bought a "new copy" of a Canon A-1, my very first camera from the Eighties. I find my long repressed high I.S.O fears from film a DSLR days cropping up again. ðĪĢ
Noticed what looked like Gavin Hardcastle in some of the footage. Did you do a trip with him?
1:02 ððð About time you get some comic relief in your videos. ð
Waaaay back in the early days of digital there was a huge penalty to pay for higher ISOs, heck I had a point and shoot where the noise at ISO400 was almost unusable. The idea of trying to stay as close to 100 as possible probably started then, no doubt aided by a film becoming very grainy at higher ISOs making it a logical assumption. I do remember feeling my mid 2000's DSLR was pretty much feature complete and the only thing that would make me want to upgrade would be lower noise higher ISO capability.
Oh and recently I have been shooting at 100 max and actually wanting for something lower! Somewhat different situation though, playing with a f/0.95 lens, and if you have one of those why would you shoot with anything else but wide open :)
The acronym ISO stands for âInternational Organization for Standardizationâ. However, camera ISO does not directly refer to the organization that creates various technology and product standards. Ever since two film standards called ASA and DIN were combined into ISO standards in 1974 (later revised for both film and digital photography), they were referred to as one word âISOâ from that point on. Although ISO initially defined only film sensitivity, it was later adopted by digital camera manufacturers with the purpose of maintaining similar brightness levels as film. Source - Photography life . Finally since itâs not an acronym , like I.S.O . , and rather a name that was set , itâs best to go with â Eye So. I say EyeSo .
Great video, Mark! I have two questions:
When you say that you're raising your ISO (pronounced I.S.O. lol), do you use Auto ISO? I'm on the fence with that myself, as I am using an 11 year-old Nikon d5200 that I've had since new and the ISO performance often peaks out around 1000. Also, not necessarily related, but you mentioned it...while my setup doesn't have IBIS, but a few lenses I have, do have VR, would the IBIS fight against the lens VR or would they help each other?
-Rick
I shoot alot of wildlife in tough conditions. As camera sensors improve I switched to auto ISO and never looked back. I live above 1000 ISO most days in order to shoot high shutter speed in low light. Now, Nikon sensors are known as iso invariant. (actually split invariant). Which means I can shoot under exposed and move exposure up in post and it will be identical to shooting in the higher "correct"iso. Times have changed
The other thing is that even if you have to boost the ISO to a high value and you notice the grain like I do on my camera, Lightroom's denoise tool is brilliant. I've started doing a lot of my underground shots handheld (unless I have to lightpaint) as the results are now essentially the same as they would be on a tripod with ISO 100.
Nowdays the main reason Iâm reaching to get down to iso 100 (160 for Fuji) is to actually preserve some shadows and blacks in the image., while still showing some motion or keeping up with flash sync. Which, you nailed it, itâs a shutter speed manager more than anything else
For my part itâs something like âeyessoh,â no acronym, full slur but all the phonemes present and distinct.
It is important to try on your camera as suggested near the end. It would have been great if you showed a comparison with your XT5. The GFX100 has an amazing sensor âĶnot so much on the XT5. I wonât use it over ISO 400 in most cases. I also shoot with the Nikon z7ii and the FF sensor has significantly better noise performance. I just recently picked it up and for the first time in a lot of years I am able to use the ISO dialð
Thanks
I have been doing photography for about 2 years now as a hobby. I started at 100 as everyone does. Its now very rare that I go out of 800. Sometimes 1600 if its low light. Thats the base ISO of my camera (A6700) and I get the best photo's out of 800 on it. I still clean it up a little using Lightroom, but only if im cropping or pixel peeping. Faster shutter will get shaper images.
I say ISO from my film days in the late 70s. If my shutter speed needs to go high, my ISO goes high. And if I have a little noise, that doesn't bother me. I either fix it in post or leave it in and still enjoy my image. Especially the very large black bear in the early morning standing on his hind legs looking straight at the camera. It's all about enjoying the moment. Thanks for the video, I enjoyed watching it.
Mark, coud you comment on how you adapt EYE-SOH when using filters?
I. S. O. started in the sixties but it was foreign. It stood for International Standards Organisation that represented the sensitivity of film. In Britain we used a different measure called ASA which stood for Advertising Standards Authority. The measurement of the sensitivity had a different numerical indicator to the foreign ISO and we'd set our camera for the ASA indicated on the cassette. We could at times alter this setting so long as we altered development appropriately. For example, Ilford FP 4 produced better results if rated at 100 ASA rather than 125, and then printed on multi-grade paper at grade 3.