Hi Chris. $100-$102 are for motor steps per mm. These are dictated by your motor (1.80° per step usually multiplied by the jumper settings, mine are set at 16 against a distance). Mine are set to 800 which gives me, move 50mm travels exactly 50mm using a digital calliper to check the distance. Great vid, keep it up please
I've seen guys say they really like GRBL but this video makes me happy that I use Mach3. Maybe it's what you're comfortable with but Mach's set up screens seem way easier and more intuitive.
It’s not really much of a choice for these entry level hobby cnc machines. They come with Arduino controllers and therefore run grbl. Unless someone wants to change their controller, it’s what they’re stuck with. Most users wouldn’t see much benefit, or need, in upgrading.
@@ChrisPowellFSD Thanks for the reply. Yes I'm ignorant when it comes to these entry level CNC machines. I've only known a 5x10 light industrial model with Mach 3 and Artcam, (now Carveco) & V-Carve Pro. Now I understand why people babysit their machines. So many things can go wrong, plus hobbyists may not be designing and running daily like when it's your living.
I've never understood how to do things like the dome you spoke of...... can you do a video on how you set the tool paths for that and the drawing???? how does the machine know when to go up and down??? Well from start to finish...
Could you show how to change the homing position. I have a Shapeoko xxl with Vetric desktop and I use Carbide motion for the Gcode driver. I am adding a laser and the best place for homing would be the lower left as opposed to the upper right. Thanks Joh F.
I believe that’s hard coded into Carbide Motion. That’s also where you’re homing switches are located. In order to change that you would need to run a different g code sender like UGS and move your switches.
Just saw this video Chris Know nothing about coding or changing it currently running the XXL . I have the X / Z gantry to install along with the new proximity switches. Also just got the Bit runner to install which will require that I change the control board that came with the machine to the 2.4e board that will have the connector for the cable to the bit runner. Do you have a video on changing it and how to reset everything like the touch probe and bit setter.? Could you explain how fast the settings were that you changed and how fast the new ones are
@@ChrisPowellFSD You did a video on both didn.t you. I also watched your video on making your xxl longer . would there be any reason that you couldn ot do something and make it cut wider say handle a the width of a sheet of plywood?
I haven’t found a way to adjust that. I believe that’s just a hard setting in CM. I’m going to keep researching it though, because even the fast jog is a little too slow for me.
Thanks for this explanation/tutorial. For me it will be extremely helpful. Q1- do you know where these settings are stored (NVRam, etc.)? Q2- do you know what conditions will reset all these settings and you will have to re-input ?
They’re saved on your computer. Connecting a different computer, or clicking the resend configuration button in the settings would require you to input the settings again.
So today for some odd reason my x seems to be moving slower when I use it manually and when it’s heading back to home on intializing. When I do cuts it goes just fine, any thoughts?
Finding your TH-cam has been a blessing lol, no one has better information on a shapeoko out there
I really appreciate it
A good video explaining the inner workings and some code. Perfect for a technical troglodyte as myself.
Hi Chris. $100-$102 are for motor steps per mm. These are dictated by your motor (1.80° per step usually multiplied by the jumper settings, mine are set at 16 against a distance). Mine are set to 800 which gives me, move 50mm travels exactly 50mm using a digital calliper to check the distance. Great vid, keep it up please
Chris you saved me soooo much time. You are my hero Thank you!
Thanks. have been looking for that post that was on FB with these settings and couldn't find it at all..woo hoo.. you rock Sailor :)
Thanks for this video Chris, have been wanting to speed up the homing cycle.
I've seen guys say they really like GRBL but this video makes me happy that I use Mach3. Maybe it's what you're comfortable with but Mach's set up screens seem way easier and more intuitive.
It’s not really much of a choice for these entry level hobby cnc machines. They come with Arduino controllers and therefore run grbl. Unless someone wants to change their controller, it’s what they’re stuck with. Most users wouldn’t see much benefit, or need, in upgrading.
@@ChrisPowellFSD Thanks for the reply. Yes I'm ignorant when it comes to these entry level CNC machines. I've only known a 5x10 light industrial model with Mach 3 and Artcam, (now Carveco) & V-Carve Pro. Now I understand why people babysit their machines. So many things can go wrong, plus hobbyists may not be designing and running daily like when it's your living.
You are the MAN!
Good instruction. Thanks Chris.
Very informative video. Thanks.
I've never understood how to do things like the dome you spoke of...... can you do a video on how you set the tool paths for that and the drawing???? how does the machine know when to go up and down??? Well from start to finish...
I have a few tutorials on 3d modeling with CC. Here’s my latest one. th-cam.com/video/MJJsvmnT3lM/w-d-xo.html
This is an older one that covers extruding 2d shapes into 3d. th-cam.com/video/ict5lZ9PlyU/w-d-xo.html
Could you show how to change the homing position. I have a Shapeoko xxl with Vetric desktop and I use Carbide motion for the Gcode driver. I am adding a laser and the best place for homing would be the lower left as opposed to the upper right. Thanks Joh F.
I believe that’s hard coded into Carbide Motion. That’s also where you’re homing switches are located. In order to change that you would need to run a different g code sender like UGS and move your switches.
Just saw this video Chris Know nothing about coding or changing it currently running the XXL . I have the X / Z
gantry to install along with the new proximity switches. Also just got the Bit runner to install which will require that I change the control board that came with the machine to the 2.4e board that will have the connector for the cable to the bit runner. Do you have a video on changing it and how to reset everything like the touch probe and bit setter.?
Could you explain how fast the settings were that you changed and how fast the new ones are
I actually don’t use a bit setter or bit runner.
@@ChrisPowellFSD You did a video on both didn.t you. I also watched your video on making your xxl longer . would there be any reason that you couldn ot do something and make it cut wider say handle a the width of a sheet of plywood?
Is there a part of this that applies to the fast jog? I would like to jog it faster, not just the rapid positions/homing.
I haven’t found a way to adjust that. I believe that’s just a hard setting in CM. I’m going to keep researching it though, because even the fast jog is a little too slow for me.
Any updates?
I input the setting as described but they don't stay. I have to do every time i open CM
That’s weird. Those settings should be saved on your computer.
Thanks for this explanation/tutorial. For me it will be extremely helpful. Q1- do you know where these settings are stored (NVRam, etc.)? Q2- do you know what conditions will reset all these settings and you will have to re-input
?
They’re saved on your computer. Connecting a different computer, or clicking the resend configuration button in the settings would require you to input the settings again.
So today for some odd reason my x seems to be moving slower when I use it manually and when it’s heading back to home on intializing. When I do cuts it goes just fine, any thoughts?
That’s odd that it’s only one axis. Have you checked the settings?
@@ChrisPowellFSD no sir but after watching your video in going to give it a look and see what it looks like.
Commenting for our friend Al Gorithm.
I appreciate it. Al loves comments!