ND Miata Track Car - Quick Walkaround
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 ก.ย. 2024
- Hey guys, this is just a quick walkaround I shot a couple months ago. Some parts have changed since then so I’ll cover those later.
I really want to do a bunch of deep dives into the technical details about the car and how to properly set it up for track use. That along with diys, buyer’s guides, track breakdowns, cinematics, etc.
I’ve got some other things I’m focusing on right now, but around august I should be ramping up the uploads. See you then!
Absolutely love this, just got my first Miata two days ago. A 2017 club trim ND. Excited to eventually take it to the track.
Great looking car , looks very clean and functional.
I wish I lived in California. So many great tracks to drive. Car looks amazing I bet it drives amazing too
It took me 7 vids to find what I was looking for. Thanks
She's an absolute beauty
I remember following that wing at West last year. Great looking little miata.
Dang, cant believe it’s already been a year with the wing. Feels like I just put it on. See you soon!
Absolutely sweet ride. Can't wait to get one in a few months.
Nice setup!
Really gorgeous setup. Can't wait to own an ND2 in the next few years.
Thanks! Soon!
THANK YOU!
Sick Miata
Car looks sooooo good!
Thanks!😊
Nice car
Nice ride, thanks for sharing it with us. I am stuck between getting an ND2 and the new GR86...I am on the central coast so not too far!
Hey thanks, I think if you don’t absolutely love the top-down experience, I’d suggest the GR86. Don’t need a roll bar to get on track and can fit a set of tires in the back!
@@aaronsnd223 I appreciate the advice. I do want to track as much as I can(once or twice a month). Top down is cool, but I am good without it. I would probably only have the top down maybe 2% of the time. The MPG and weight on the ND2 vs the GR is what pushes me toward the ND2 more than anything.
@@NahBra_EUC Also consider the mods necessary to make it a track car. This is my min-spec build I send out:
205/40r17 RT660 on oem wheel 800
"V8R Stoptech BBK (ST-42, Fixed 12.19"" Directional)" 1400
Porterfield R4-1 Front Street pad, 7816 Shape (Track if not fast) 140
Raybestos ST-43 Front Track Pad, 7816 Shape (If you're fast) 85
Porterfield R4-1 Rear Street/track Pads 170
Goodwin Koni / Progress Spring Package 300/200 1100
"Karcepts Front Sway Bar 0.120"" " 600
Hard Dog Roll Bar 770
Toe Hook 25
RBF600 Brake Fluid 45
Goodwin Racing Front Strut Tower Brace 250
Motul Fluids (Engine, Trans, Diff) (Ask for specs) 100
Alignment (Ask for specs) 140
Karcepts Offset UCA Bushings (Not Pro Version) 100
Paco Seat Lowering Brackets 110
Total 5835
You can message me on Instagram for more info
@@aaronsnd223 I will message you on IG, maybe we can meet up for a track day. I had a CTR that I sold recently. I have been wanting to learn RWD on track.
Thanks for the video!
Very cool
Great job!! What material did you use for the splitter? thx
Hey thanks, and it’s 12mm birch plywood
Hey, great car and review... I just bought a 2016 MX5 and I am trying to dial in the suspension. Can you share the changes in street versus track rebound/compression settings? I would really appreciate that. Cheers
Sweet!
How come you didn’t decide to install a Verus diffuser?
It blocks all the airflow that cools the diff and isn’t designed like it should be to do anything significant. There are videos on TH-cam by a phd and ex-f1 aerodynamicist called KLYE.ENGINEERS that have many videos on diffusers and after watching you’ll be able to recognize that none of the verus stuff will actually do anything significant
Cool!
Nice build! I often Sonoma and Laguna Seca, but I'm in the more slower groups. Hope to see you around!
Yea, come by if you see me!
Do you need an improved roll cage with the group you run, Neil?
nice car!! can you share the front splitter brand name, or link? much thx
Hey thanks, and I built it myself
What is your front splitter made from? It's insane noone makes something like this for NDs!
Thanks for your review and information.
Please , How do you prevent the check engine light from being on?
Because of the cancellation of the catalytic converter
Tune
@@aaronsnd223
Thanks
Bellissima ❤
i see this is from 2 years ago but im wondering what wing you use? im trying to figure out how to build mine and i love the look of it
It’s an Apr gtc-200
Can you please tell me more about this splitter? I have a Sport ND2 and haven't found many options for not running the factory fangs, which I don't like. Thanks, Aaron!
Hey, yea you can scroll through my Instagram @aarons_ND2 , I have some posts and story archives that summarize the build process pretty well
Did you have to bypass the airbag when installing your race seat? Which seat model do you have? Thanks.
Yea I put a resistor between the two airbag terminals on the wiring harness side to fool it into thinking the airbag is there. And it’s a Recaro RS-GE!
Just curious do you have any rubbing issues on the street? How’s the ride quality also on street with these ohlins
I don’t have rubbing issues because I set the camber and caster right, as well as rolled fenders and took a hammer to the rear shock tower skirt.
It’s highly dependent on setup- you really should just remove the spring on each corner and jack the wheel up to see what needs to happen for a given camber and tire spec. More fender roll, more wheel spacer, etc.
And ride quality is highly up to personal taste. I see this car as a track tool so I have little expectations for ride quality.
Love the car! What's your ride hight? I run with flyin' miata's recommended alinment with a Falken RT660 215/45/17 on OEM BBS wheels. And the right front already rubbed through the fender liner after 3 track days(and daily). Maybe raise the front? Harder spring? Any opinions? I do plan on getting a set of 235/40 with 17x9s.
Hey, yea just back out the caster until the wheel is in the center of the wheel well. More caster moves the wheel forward.
With 235 and 245 I run minimum castor and the fronts are around 12.75-13”
If looks wouldn’t matter and it was a pure track car and only that, would u rather have smaller rims?
They wouldn’t be able to fit big brakes
Did you roll your fenders for this fitment setup? 17x9 +45 245/45/17 correct? I think I’ve seen you’ve just scrubbed a little bit on the front plastic liners.
Yea, I have front and rear rolled, with front at minimum caster and there’s still major rub due to launching off curbs
245/40/17. 45 sidewall is way too tall
@@Chilicharger665 yea /40
Nice car. Excellent choice of color! ;)
About the exhaust “sound.” You might be interested in hearing my onboard videos. It’s the siren’s song! It’s a dual tipped straight pipe.
Any idea of you hp and torque output?
I’ll check it out! Thanks!
Are you using any underbody brace such as RoadsterSport or Autoexe? why or why not? Would like to hear your opinion, thank you!
The car already comes with bracing from factory so I don’t see a need to add dead weight. Dave Coleman from Mazda has a video explaining what they’ve done to stiffen the ND
@@aaronsnd223 Thanks for your advice! I will go check out on Dave Coleman's videos now.
Nice build, do you have an oil cooler and if not how many track days between oil changes.
Thanks, I don’t have an oil cooler and I change oil every 3 track days
Hey what kind of engine data does the aim obd system give you?
Pretty much everything except oil temps. I only put a small subset of data on the custom overlays in my track videos. I’d suggest a garmin catalyst over an aim DL though.
Hey, how did you mount the little cubby door? My bucket is far enough back where I can barely open it, but I’d like to keep the functionality of the bucket portion
Hey, you can check out my post here :)
instagram.com/p/CDrNO0hHmcx/?
Thank you for posting this - Is there any way you can find a splitter set up like that?
I built it fully custom so no, not at the moment
Does the full exhaust with header actually make more power? I’ve been debating getting a header because I would like to stay emissions compliant, but if the power gains are significant I would think otherwise
The header/tune gave it a little more low end torque but I wouldn’t suggest it to anyone that’s on any sort of budget. It’s not significant. I bought the header/tune assuming the E85 variant was ready, but it still isn’t. Maybe when that gets released it’ll be worth it in my eyes. I miss how the car sounded with just the borla axle back.
@@aaronsnd223 Hey thanks for getting back to me so quickly. I also got a tune from Fab9 on my ND2 with no mods to the drivetrain. It definitely made a difference. Yea I’m going to stay with the stock exhaust manifold. To the best of my knowledge E85 has a higher octane so it will resist premature ignition that causes knock. I feel like it would be more beneficial to go the E85 route if you added a turbo somewhere down the line. Does a tune substantially increase compression ratios?
@@AT-fi9dj the E85 let’s you advance ignition timing to produce more power. It’s usually substantial. Compression ratio is between max and min cylinder volume- which can only be changed via physical crank, piston and cylinder geometry
@@aaronsnd223 Ok cool! Thanks for letting me know. I’m studying to become a mechanic and it goes to show that one can never stop learning! My next project is to learn how to build engines/transmissions. I really want to K-swap my miata somewhere down the line. I believe that somewhere around 250 horsepower/torque to the wheels in a ND2 would be a sweet spot. The LS swapped miatas produce too much power in my opinion
@@AT-fi9dj Nice! Yea I haven’t really done any engine work but I’ve watched people on TH-cam do it, and that’s good enough for me!
How do you like the front brakes? Been eyeing them but not sure if I should shoot for a full set, or the fronts are decent enough with cooling
Stock front brakes are garbage even with track pads and cooling ducts. I highly suggest a full BBK at minimum. Must have a larger rotor. Preferably a caliper that accommodates 16mm pads or more, else you’re replacing them every 3 track days and that cost adds up.
I suggest the following 12.19” PFC Rotor with STR42 caliper. Pair with the 16mm Raybestos ST43 brake pads for track, and Porterfield R4-S for street and you’re golden.
v8roadsters.com/product/mx5-nd-stoptech-big-brake-kit/
@@aaronsnd223 for sure!! I'll start looking into it then! Thanks for the video, I was looking into the Diffuser, but I'll put it off for now to get the brakes
@@aaronsnd223 did you have stock Brembo brakes or stock Advics? I have Advics and with Hawk DTC-30 pads and Motul RBF 600 fluid they are definitely not garbage.
@@OKMX5 Maybe garbage isn’t the right term but I faded them with track pads, 2-piece curved vane rotors and brake ducts after two laps on a small track so they certainly couldn’t keep up with the performance I was demanding.
The caliper isn’t really the issue- it’s the rotor and cooling. Proper brakes on a time attack car should be able to engage ABS at 100mph on hot tires and maintain that available braking torque throughout the session
@@aaronsnd223 most of the time I drive on small tracks. But I also went to a big one (Autodrom Most) and did not experience brake fade while doing 5 lap sessions.
Whats the size of the tyres and do they rub?
Those RS4s are 245/40r17 and they didn’t rub with stock fenders with at least 2 degrees of camber and min caster. Wider 245s like the A052, rival s, and CR-1 you’ll want to roll rear fenders
Did you have to roll fenders to run 245s?
Depends on a lot of factors, that’s why there are so many conflicting answers online. Everyone doing fitment check needs to take the coilovers out of the car, put the wheel/tire on, jack up that corner and actually test the fitment. On the front you need to also steer the wheel through its range of motion throughout the vertical travel range.
You also need to make sure you set your ride height correctly if you have an adjustable shock body length like ohlins. The shock body length defines at what vertical point the shock bottoms, and you want it to happen right before the tire hits anything. If you set it wrong then you’ll rub A LOT on the top/front fender liner because your fender liner bottoms out on the tire before your shock bottoms on the bump stop. Once you correctly set shock body length, then you use spring preload to actually set the corner height. If you end up needing negative preload for the desired height, you need to use a helper spring so the spring never unseats. It’s really that simple.
Rear:
You want the tire to travel between the shock tower skirt (inner) and fender (outer)- and not hit either one. If you run a lot of camber you risk hitting the shock tower skirt so you either need to hammer the skirt in, cut off the protruding part of the skirt, or run a wheel spacer. If you don’t run a lot of camber then you risk hitting the fender so you’d need to roll it.
Front:
Everyone’s subframe position is different. I have to set my caster to minimum to prevent the tire from hitting the front liner. Others may have to set it to almost minimum else the tire hits the rear liner. If you run any toe-in you moreso risk the tire rubbing a karcepts swaybar arm at full lock. There are steering rack limiting spacers you can buy (originally for a mustang) that reduces the steering angle enough to prevent this. If you don’t run enough camber and your shock body length is set incorrectly you will hit the front part of the fender which would require a roll to get around. If you’re running 245s and only 2deg of camber in the front you’re doing it wrong though.
Rule of thumb:
1) Get more front camber w/ karcepts or FM camber bushings.
2) Run -2.5deg rear camber and fold the fender lip in but no need to roll/pull. If you look at the underside of the rear fender it will be obvious what the lip is. I also have pictures on my IG if you DM me.
3) Run -3 to -4deg front camber and no need to fold/roll/pull
Note: A 235 RT660 is wider than a 245 RS4. So you need to check the section width of the tire when comparing for fitment.
I have a lot of guides in my head about many areas of this car, I just haven’t gotten around to making videos about them. For example I’m running 15x9s now with 225/45r15 tires which are way smaller diameter than 245/40r17s but the same sidewall length. So I still have good tire support and can fit a max caster alignment and don’t have to run so much static negative camber because the caster gives you camber as you turn the wheel. This less static camber makes braking significantly better cause it was truly compromised at -4.3deg w/ 17s.
Have you tried Yokohama a052? Running 225 on my ND1 1.5L. Good street and perfect track tire. IMO better than RS-4
Yea I recently got a dedicated track set and put CR-1s on, so pretty much an A052. I ran the RS4s as a dual duty tire and put 17k street miles on them in addition to over 10 track days. Helped keep consumable costs down while I was modding
@@aaronsnd223 it will be interesting to see times and compare cr1s to rs-4. We don't get them in Russia, but still interesting what we are missing :)
@@James1258ful For me it’s about 3 seconds on a 2min track
@@aaronsnd223 wow that's the difference! Wish they will bring them to Russia eventually :)
Thanks for the vid. I couldn’t shake the transmission-might-blow blues and sold my 2019 Sport a few months ago. I really hope yours lasts forever.
Where did you get those wing end plates? Those look so much better than the normal ones. Do they have an actual aerodynamic benefit over the normal ones?
We’ll see how long it lasts!
And I got the euro endplates from evasive. Since then however I’ve stepped up to the singular Motorsports endplates. They just keep air from under the wing wrapping around the end and loosing the pressure differential between top and bottom of the airfoil
It's possible to do NC transmission conversion.
@@OKMX5 which also requires changing the rear gear ratio.
@@Chilicharger665 yeah, you can use the rear end from Fiat 124.
How much weight do the wheels and tires add to each corner. Seems like there would be a point of not just diminishing, but negative returns. Light car, low hp. At some point the performance hit for weight added will outweigh the increased grip. I have no idea where that limit is, but I'd guess you are close to or over that line.
Without 17” you can’t run a BBK big enough to keep up with a full session, and the decreased tire load sensitivity of a wider tire has been widely proven to provide substantially more grip.
Also, I bought a Miata- so I really don’t care about acceleration much at all, I’m more entertained by the Gs I can sustain through corners. If I really wanted more power I’d just supercharge it.
Awesome setup! I miss my track day NC... what offset bushes did you say you run?
Nice, yea they’re the karcepts offset upper control arm bushings:
www.karcepts.com/shop/product.php?id_product=123
Wish I got the pro version with more offset though, as the CR-1 wants a bit more than I can get
Have you tested if the splitter and wing gave you an improvement in lap times?
I haven’t done a back to back comparison on the same tire, but the car is absolutely more stable a gripped up in high speed sections. It’s noticeable and significant
Hi Aaron, car looks sick, what happen to your CAE Shifter?
Hey, thanks! And I filmed this before swapping in the CAE
Did you consider changing the diff for a clutch type one? I have OS Giken Superlock on the way, can't wait to install it!
Yea I’ll be switching to the automatic’s shorter final drive and OS Giken some time next year when I can budget for more car parts
@@aaronsnd223 I'm doing the shorter final drive as well :) Together with BBR Super 220 kit it should be a total monster.
@@OKMX5 Dude! A 3.45 rear with cams, ITB's and E85 will be an absolute monster! I just wish I had confidence in the factory ND transmission surviving all of that.
@@Chilicharger665 not ITBs, just cams and headers with a tune on high octane fuel. The increase in torque is not that big so I hope the improved ND2 transmission can survive it. If not then I will do NC transmission conversion.
@OKMX5 not sure if you did this already but you should check out swiatek cams and their research they've done. The Poles really have figured out how to squeeze every HP out of this platform. I believe Seoul tuner channel does a quick video on swapping out the final drive as well. Poland, Korea, Japan even have a 13B REW in a ND while here in North America 70 year old purists will bark down anyone that posts anything beyond a strut tower bar on a miata.
bro can you give me a rundown of all the mods you installed his miata looks BUMPIN
You should do more vlog-style videos like this. Really enjoyed watching this. How much power are you making?
Thanks! I plan on it within the coming months. With the header and tune it’s likely making about 180whp
Do you have an aftermarket mid pipe?
No, the aftermarket midpipes largely just increase drone and don’t make any more power
Link for the splitter?
I made it
@@aaronsnd223 well it looks awesome!
@@Benjammin43 Thanks!
Buttonwillow time?
tune?
Yea, FAB9 stage 2 91 octane tune
Need more air going into the engine look up @saturn.works on IG for a cold air intake straight to the front grille
Actually the oem intake already produces cylinder pressures above atmosphere. Unless you’re boosted the oem intake is best due to tuned intake scavenging by mazda. The only extra performance you can get out of the intake on a stock engine is insulating the intake tubing with heat tape to reduce IAT
That wing has to go. Rest is nice.
So I can keep the 6” splitter?😂
@@aaronsnd223 lol absolutely !
@@WizardTerence Whew😮💨 thank you Grand Wizard Terence that took me so long to build
@@aaronsnd223 great looking car all around but I think the size of that wing makes it speak comical more than it provides functionality. If it was my car I would stay with the aggressiveness that you have provided for the overall look and make a four to six inch rise wing off the rear deck lid. The wing with some type of angular tilt up or down or winglets. But to each their own.
@@WizardTerence you need some milk 🥛
Very nice car, but why wasting ii with that shitty tiers?
Those “shitty tires” lasted 10 track days and 17k street miles. There’s no tire on the market that completes for longevity. I ran the RS4 as my first tire while I figured out the suspension setup and alignment, then switched to RT660 for lapping days and CR1/CRS/A052 for time attack days