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It’s an Apr gtc-200

Hey thanks, and I built it myself

Hey, actually yea I got engaged, both my dogs passed away, got a new job, moved out of my parent’s house (that had the garage full of tools), and have just been adjusting to a new life and planning/paying for wedding stuff. In the mean time I’ve been moding the car though. Put in a shorter final drive and OS Giken diff, and last month actually I just finished installing an HKS supercharger. The thing rips now and makes some pretty cool induction sounds so i’m going to mic up the engine bay and trunk for future videos and it should sound amazing. I still need to buy/install AP brakes, a built trans and oil/trans/diff coolers so that’s a ton of money I’m not ready to spend. Need to redesign the splitter mounting system too now that the intercooler piping is in the way. Maybe in 2025 I’ll get back on track 😅

Hey thanks, and it’s 12mm birch plywood

Thanks! And I’m not sure maybe it’s just an ND2 thing? The parameter is exposed on the aim solo

ahh maybe nd2 thing yeah, mine is nd1, don't have data unfortunately. thank you!

Depends on a lot of factors, that’s why there are so many conflicting answers online. Everyone doing fitment check needs to take the coilovers out of the car, put the wheel/tire on, jack up that corner and actually test the fitment. On the front you need to also steer the wheel through its range of motion throughout the vertical travel range. You also need to make sure you set your ride height correctly if you have an adjustable shock body length like ohlins. The shock body length defines at what vertical point the shock bottoms, and you want it to happen right before the tire hits anything. If you set it wrong then you’ll rub A LOT on the top/front fender liner because your fender liner bottoms out on the tire before your shock bottoms on the bump stop. Once you correctly set shock body length, then you use spring preload to actually set the corner height. If you end up needing negative preload for the desired height, you need to use a helper spring so the spring never unseats. It’s really that simple. Rear: You want the tire to travel between the shock tower skirt (inner) and fender (outer)- and not hit either one. If you run a lot of camber you risk hitting the shock tower skirt so you either need to hammer the skirt in, cut off the protruding part of the skirt, or run a wheel spacer. If you don’t run a lot of camber then you risk hitting the fender so you’d need to roll it. Front: Everyone’s subframe position is different. I have to set my caster to minimum to prevent the tire from hitting the front liner. Others may have to set it to almost minimum else the tire hits the rear liner. If you run any toe-in you moreso risk the tire rubbing a karcepts swaybar arm at full lock. There are steering rack limiting spacers you can buy (originally for a mustang) that reduces the steering angle enough to prevent this. If you don’t run enough camber and your shock body length is set incorrectly you will hit the front part of the fender which would require a roll to get around. If you’re running 245s and only 2deg of camber in the front you’re doing it wrong though. Rule of thumb: 1) Get more front camber w/ karcepts or FM camber bushings. 2) Run -2.5deg rear camber and fold the fender lip in but no need to roll/pull. If you look at the underside of the rear fender it will be obvious what the lip is. I also have pictures on my IG if you DM me. 3) Run -3 to -4deg front camber and no need to fold/roll/pull Note: A 235 RT660 is wider than a 245 RS4. So you need to check the section width of the tire when comparing for fitment. I have a lot of guides in my head about many areas of this car, I just haven’t gotten around to making videos about them. For example I’m running 15x9s now with 225/45r15 tires which are way smaller diameter than 245/40r17s but the same sidewall length. So I still have good tire support and can fit a max caster alignment and don’t have to run so much static negative camber because the caster gives you camber as you turn the wheel. This less static camber makes braking significantly better cause it was truly compromised at -4.3deg w/ 17s.

Whoopsie

Yea it’s pretty much gone away for me entirely after a few months

@@aaronsnd2 that’s encouraging

It blocks all the airflow that cools the diff and isn’t designed like it should be to do anything significant. There are videos on TH-cam by a phd and ex-f1 aerodynamicist called KLYE.ENGINEERS that have many videos on diffusers and after watching you’ll be able to recognize that none of the verus stuff will actually do anything significant

They do but it’s ~$4700 after tax and I can’t justify that. What’s wrong with stop-tech?

@@aaronsnd2 I've seen too many Stop-Tech failures.

@@maxymillion7480 If you’re talking about the C43 rotor failures like I mentioned in the description I’m familiar- but the kit I’m on now doesn’t use the C43 rotor that the stories are from. My kit uses a stop-tech ST42 caliper and PFC rotors which I haven’t heard of any failures from.

@@aaronsnd2 PFC's stuff is good, I'm sure you'll be fine.

On the aim solo you choose the car you have and it maps the sensors correctly. On Harry’s laptimer app you also set the ND as your car. I’m not sure how track addict works. I didn’t do anything specific it just always worked

Tune

@@aaronsnd2 Thanks

I’ll check it out! Thanks!

I don’t have rubbing issues because I set the camber and caster right, as well as rolled fenders and took a hammer to the rear shock tower skirt. It’s highly dependent on setup- you really should just remove the spring on each corner and jack the wheel up to see what needs to happen for a given camber and tire spec. More fender roll, more wheel spacer, etc. And ride quality is highly up to personal taste. I see this car as a track tool so I have little expectations for ride quality.

Haha yea, excited to break into the 1:44s!

At that time, no all I had was an axle back exhaust

It entirely depends on the track surface and tire compound. Softer springs for bumpy tracks and harder tire compound. Stiffer springs for smooth tracks and softer tire compound. This video was from when I was running RS4s which aren’t very grippy so 10/6 was about as much I could run before mechanical grip fell off a cliff. I think 10/5 would be more appropriate for a non-aero (verus package = non aero) car running 245 RS4s

@@aaronsnd2 thanks. A lot. I have the same feeling.

The wing alone will push down behind the rear wheels, acting as a lever to lift the front wheels up. So alone it doesn’t do much. When you combine it with a real time attack level splitter that’s when the car comes alive at 80+mph.

@@aaronsnd2 thanks a lot!

Thanks! And it’s always come out via obd2 both in Harry’s and in the aim solo 2 so not sure what to look for🤷🏻‍♂️

I suggest older cars like the NC or frs. They’re basically the same thing just $20k cheaper

The length of the splitter isn’t nearly as critical as the height of the splitter, and if you’re running splitter diffusers that exhaust airflow out through fender vents. My suggestion to everyone is to get the nine lives wing. The only reason I have the apr is because I got it for $600 including a spare ND trunk. As for splitter it’s only effective if you’re running a setup with mega stiff roll rate so the splitter stays low and parallel. So there’s a lot of factors that come into play that require the recurring testing and tuning to get your setup right. Also you can’t daily or even weekend drive a legit splitter. It’s just way to low to get up even the most mild of driveways

@@aaronsnd2 now i have 10kg front (probably 12kg in future), 6kg rear, sways, camber braces, a052 in 245 40 17 I've seen that Apr gtc 200 with gurney flaps produce around 200-260 lbf at 100mph. Talking with professional awesome they suggested me a 3" splitter extension with airdam. Height splitter i'm thinking around 3,5" (i can't reduce car height more) I want a not big splitter to mount with their quick release bracket to use it only at the track I don't think i do diffusers for now.

@@aaronsnd2 is your apr on sale?

@@Crono-MLaudi Wing was used from someone that had sold the car, and both the trunk and wing were painted white so I had to take care of that. And yea you can take a look at my Instagram @aaronsND2 i have pics of how I used the professional awesome hardware for the splitter.

Without 17” you can’t run a BBK big enough to keep up with a full session, and the decreased tire load sensitivity of a wider tire has been widely proven to provide substantially more grip. Also, I bought a Miata- so I really don’t care about acceleration much at all, I’m more entertained by the Gs I can sustain through corners. If I really wanted more power I’d just supercharge it.

They wouldn’t be able to fit big brakes

Thanks, I don’t have an oil cooler and I change oil every 3 track days

It’s a CAE shifter you can find it online

I made it

@@aaronsnd2 well it looks awesome!

@@Benjammin43 Thanks!

Those “shitty tires” lasted 10 track days and 17k street miles. There’s no tire on the market that completes for longevity. I ran the RS4 as my first tire while I figured out the suspension setup and alignment, then switched to RT660 for lapping days and CR1/CRS/A052 for time attack days

Yup that’s normal with stiff diff mounts. The bang at 0:38 is it

@@aaronsnd2 Thanks for that! Now that I'm listening with headphones, I do hear a similar sound when you're shifting at low speeds. Appreciate it!

Man the car has been expensive enough as it is I don’t want to think about more mods at this point😂 Really though other than Hoosiers, a proper BBK is what’s holding this car back the most given how quickly mine just heat soaks and can’t shed it off. My brother in his ND with the AP Radical BBK can brake so much deeper into corners and pretty much negates my entire aero advantage

Haven’t taken the car to buttonwillow yet, no