We don't do this to get wealthy and drive yachts. It's one of those careers that calls to you when you are a kid. and it never stops, even when you don't do it for a living anymore. it's what you are. 🏁
You are an excellent mechanic. Why you ask? Well because this is what I would have done. Instead of just saying “hey it needs lifters” you actually tried to save the customer money and make a real diagnosis, instead of just throwing parts on it. You don’t realize how much shops would have just changed lifters, pushrods etc. Great work once again!
I mean...he cleaned the throttle body and ran a scan all after he solved the customer complaint. He made sure he got his day wage even though it was fixed for under 60$.
Trust no repair shop or especially the Dealerships , sad state of affairs these days. Confirm all work , get more than one diagnosis. Their in it for the all the MONEY that can be extorted from the job.
Seriously. Tell me there isn’t a market for a simple old school truck without all the ass ticklers and cameras and screens? Somebody wake up and make one.
I recall a 64 Chev pickup so sludged up the V6 wouldn't run. We drained what we could then poured 2 gallons of kerosene in it. Pulled the spark plugs, chained it to a small tractor, put it in 4th gear and pulled it around slowly for 15 minutes. Drained and repeated 3 times. Then 5 quarts ATF and new filter. New points, plugs and drove it 50 miles. Regular oil and new filter and it ran great by then. That engine lasted many years after that.
I use the $5 motor flush on a hot engine, let it idle a long time and most of the sludge melts away and drains out quickly during the oil change. It has unstuck lifters and freed sticking rings. I've had great luck with it on many neglected used vehicles.
@@davidparker9676 Are you letting the vehicle sit with the flush longer than what the manufacturer recommends or are you following the instructions? Just asking what your approach is and nothing more!
@@christophersanchez7130For best cleaning, get the engine fully hot by taking it for a long highway drive, at least an hour. Then add the motor flush quart to the hot engine and let it idle, manufacturer says 5 minutes, I do it for 15 minutes. Do not drive or rev the engine with the motor flush in it, just idle. After those 5-15 minutes, immediately drain the hot oil and flush, it will be thin and splash more than a regular oil change so be ready with rags etc. Do your new oil change but don't fil it all the way, leave it about 1/2 to 1 quart low. If it is still making lifter noise, add either Sea Foam to your oil and drive it or add Rislone to the oil and drive it on long drives to get the oil with the Rislone treatment nice and hot. A sticky lifter should free up if it is possible to be saved. If the engine was neglected and full of sludge, do the flush at every oil change until the sludge gets melted away and drained out of the pan.
I'm not a professional mechanic, but I've been wrenching on my own and my family's vehicles for more than 40 years. I really appreciate the no nonsense, old-school approach you use. At many shops, they would want to tear the heads off to repair that lifter tick. Sometimes the KISS method is the absolute best!
Always run a quart of transfluid before I change my oil so I'm one quart over New or old cars especially race engines Nice that someone like you brings this to everyone's attention
Danm 150k views, Kenny is getting popular. Anyone out there who has the 5.3 with lifter issues, if using seafoam or trans fluid doesn't do it, then good chance the issue is low oil pressure. The o-ring that connects from the oil pickup tube to the oil pump goes flat, then oil pressure becomes too low, which makes the hydraulic lifters unable to collapse. There are multiple videos on youtube of this. I just did it myself on my 05 suburban with a pretty loud lifter noise. If you end up performing the work also remember to clean out the bottom of the oil pan, and clean the oil pickup tube screen.
I bought a used 1996 Blazer with the 4.3 this past November that had sat for over 6 months. Once I replaced the battery, cables and cleaned the fuel tank, it fired right up but had the tick. Changed the oil and filter with high mileage oil and a Wix filter. I am going to try the atf in the oil, it`s due for a change again, really do not want to do a cam and lifter swap. I will replace the Injector system due to really bad mpg-10-11mpg. I bought the AC Delco upgrade spider injector upgrade kit. Thanks for this tip Kenny, you have a new sub. So glad this video came up in my feed.
Had the same lifter tick in my 99 Silverado, has just over 150k on it! Used Seafoam in it and took it away. Bought it brand new in 98. Truck still runs strong! I like it better than my 2016. Great videos Kenny!
Essentially anything lighter than motor oil could unstick it. a can of engine flush might do it as well, but don't drive with that, follow it's instructions carefully.
Well I replaced my lifters and rockers on my 2000 silverado 4.3 only because they had 225 k on them and the new lifters are ticking wtf? Oil has 60 psi hot. And oil is getting up to each rocker. Have i screwed my engine up? The lifters are stock melling replacements.
@@srryan1changed em at 225k? Why? I've got damn near 350 and no issues on my '98. My buddy's '95 is pushing 500k and is all stock from factory besides the typical consumables like water pump(s) wires and plugs and one head gasket (of which is almost certain was a faulty install at factory or possibly a bad or damaged inadvertently during install gasket from factory) The old adage "If it AIN'T broke, DON'T fix it" comes to mind. Most of the time, in my experience, you go monkeying around with things that aren't TRULY presenting an issue, you just wind up CREATING an issue for yourself.
The 4.3 is a very durable engine! I had one in my 93 Silverado with 330,000 miles. Was still in great condition. I sold her last year for $2800. The only thing I didn't like was that no matter what I would do, it would only get 9-10 miles in the city.
I had a 97 w/t 1500 with over 200k miles daily driver, one cold morning 11 degrees Fahrenheit got off night shift, jumped in and took off about 10 minutes later I was wondering why I wasn’t getting any heat for the defrost, glanced at temp gauge and noticed it was still climbing, got about 6 miles farther down the road and gauge was pegged into the danger zone, pulled off and shut her down, sat for awhile and it would not even turn over, long story short. Towed home changed the oil it fired up and ran like nothing happened, sold it about 6 months later and it still is on the road 😊
ATF does work well for clearing lifters as well as helping the seals stay nice and resilient. Another great thing for clearing lifters and it works a lot quicker than ATF. Is Marvel Mystery Oil. All of these vehicles that have hydraulic issues like the hydraulic lash adjusters on 3.7 and 4.7 Chryslers and the 3.6 L Chrysler and Chevrolet engine. It even helps keep the oil passages to the cam phasers on that 5.3 L three valve Ford engine nice and clean.
You are a ok on this truck I have told others about trans oil in the motor and many others tell me you can not do that i have known this for years, and you are right it works well.
Have heard the ole transmission oil trick for clicking engines for years. Ford Rangers, back in the couple of years of production, had a 2.8L V6 engine with solid lifters that would start sounding like a Singer Sewing machine after about 60,000 miles. No way to fix them. Another one of those “Better Ideas” from Ford.
Thank You. I appreciate the practical knowledge you present. And the simple reminders especially just tight. 😁. It is a pleasure watching a professional
That was a great video and I appreciate great information and your efforts to make the video and help people learn from your experience. Thank you very much.
My truck’s ticking was getting louder and louder. I followed your suggestion and the ticking went away before I left the my street. Liked and subscribed!
4.3 in my 91 was a horse i pull (truck and trailer loaded)" 8000 pounds many times and did it good and that had a 700r4 4x4 trans motor went out 350,000 oil change every 15,000 with full synthetic oil every day driver 100 miles a day wish i had one more
About 41 yrs ago had 1973 Catalina 400ci, popping out the carb. Added quart and a half of kerosene in the oil. Let it idle with some gentle periodic revs of engine for 40 minutes. Hanging intake valve cleared up. No more popping. Changed oil n filter. Engine was fine for many more years.
Years ago I bought a 59 Olds that was noisy as hell. I thought it needed lifters. My older brother (I was only 17) called BS. We changed the oil & put straight tranny fluid in it, the old red stuff. Drove it around easy for about 200 miles total. It went quiet & we changed the oil back to normal. Tranny fluid was a light weight high detergent cleanser for those lifters. Now days I use a quart of engine flush or even diesel for about 20 minutes & get a much better cleansing before an oil change. I never get rid of anything below 250K, never have these problems.
I have learned it don't take long for the plastic clips to harden and break again , so what I do now is go to O Rileys and grab a couple packs of mixed carburetor linkage clips, there is usually a couple of each ,left & right and use them , never had to do the job again 🤔 also I've had good luck with Marvel's Mystery Oil for sticky valves and lifters ,my old 1964 Ford pickup actually recommended it back in the day ! Great video
What do you mean “fluid from a change”? Thank you, I just got a 5.3 van delivered with the Tick and I’m exploring options before I go all the way in on a lifter job
I have added about 6 ounces of Seafoam to the oil in my 2002 F150 5.4L 2V engine (171,000 miles) about 30 miles before changing the last couple of oil changes. The oil is blacker when drained and it is a little quieter on cold starts afterwards.
Your video lead me down the path to finding my tick. Not exhaust and not lifter, and not coil but close...spark plug was loose and was blowing exhaust. Pretty obvious once you see one of the four boots wiggling.
Good informative vid. GMC: that's Got Mechanic Coming. I hear more GM models with that distinctive lifter tick than any other manufacturers models. It's an iconic GM sound. Tick tick boom 🤣. I have that similar truck but labeled in Chevrolet: that's Chacked Heads Every Valve Rattles Oil Leaks Every Time. I have no loyalty to any manufacturer, they all have there good, bad, & ugly. I poke fun at all of them. Love it when a guy gets worked up and starts arguing defending his car manufacturer. So I do have something similar a used 01 Silverado 5.3 lasted 306,000+ till a gasket gaveup and decided to start leaking coolant into the crankcase. Replaced engine &transmission from another totaled 01 Silverado 5.3 I got for free. Lowest cost ride I have owned. Spend little more on gas but still saved a heck a lot more than everyone else.
Yes, I have also used the XMSN oil trick myself to quiet noisy lifters. I like the Type F, I think it has a higher detergent level. I also like Seafoam and Magic Mystery Oil. WD-40, water displacing oil works pretty well In many places, It can be used to clean out wet distributor caps. I change oil every 2,500 miles, so I have very few internal engine problems. I have had a couple of those 4.3 liter Chevy V-6's, very durable and reliable, I think they are 5.7 liter (350 cubic inch) V-8's with two cylinders chopped off. I also use old toothbrushes for cleaning just about everything, from guns and automotive/aircraft/engine parts to household cleaning, etc, etc. I am a retired military and FAA, Airframe and Powerplant (A & P) Mechanic. I like Wrenching with Kennys videos and old school process. He has a straight foreward and logical approach to diagnosing and repairing that I like.
I got tired of th plastic clips on my 02 Chevy tailgate latch breaking. I went thru my old carberators that are no good and robbed the metal linkage clips and modified them to clip on the rods to the handle. That was 10 years ago and no mre problems.
I have a 5.3 LS1 with "the tick" right now. My Brother in law was a GM service tech for many years. He told me to do an oil change and keep one quart out and sub with transmission fluid. run it through the oil cycle (3K or so). Drain and refill with all oil. He said 80% of the time, it would unstick the lifter on LS1's like mine. Displacement on demand engines are a whole other poop show. I'm gonna try it, what the heck.
I had to replace the hydraulic lifters in my 5.7 litre Chevrolet LS1 V8 engine about ,54,000 kilometres ago (4 1/2 years ago) because they were jamming up inside of the lifter bores & the valves were actually hitting on the piston crowns except on cylinder number 8 & I am lucky none of them got bent. The hydraulic lifters mushroomed out on the roller end but the engine has been going trouble free since I replaced them !
I watch a lot of mechanics video's and for certain, they almost never use penetrating oil before removing bolts. It's a simple procedure that saves time, money, and bolts...
A tiki LS motor is most likely the oil pickup tube seal. I have cured this on three other LS engines in pickups by changing the seal on the oil pickup tube
Nice job. Just a heads up if I might. On the throttle body on that vintage 4.3 there is a "wedge" fastened to the throttle valve to achieve a specific rate of air flow change when coming off idle. The V8's do not have it. Careless cleaning or being aggressive with that wedge can cause it to become loose. Removing it may cause a min air error. One thing for sure, that wedge becoming detached while the engine is running could ruin your day.
This happened to me on my 01 s10 4.3. Came to a stop and the wedge got lodged between the blade and the egr tube in the intake. Had to hold the brake down hard 😂 i ripped it off and it still had the rivets in it. Took the blade out and hammered them flat to get a good seal and put it back on. Lasted 125k miles till I sold it still going strong.
@@ChrisTheBmxGuy Glad there were no air flow rate errors. I had a 88 S10 EL model. 2.5 Iron Duke motor with 5 speed Borg Warner trans. Absolutely a no frills truck. Being a gm power train designer my employee price was $5895. Drove it to 173,000 miles before the salt killed it. Wish I could get another commuter like that again!
Mine is a 2000 c2500 classic with the 350. I bought it 5 years ago with 82k miles. It never ticks cold, only when the oil warms up. It's in the bottom, not the top. I figured the oil was too thin. Did a change with 0w-40 synthetic. It started easier, and quieted the tick significantly.
3 comments: 1) ATF works in Diesel fuel to clean injectors too. 2) My 4.3 LVO vin code H: vvt & afm, the same as the 5.3 & 6.0 for possible lifter collapse. 3) I was hoping you'd pull the latches so I could see. I went to replace my tailgate cables with quick connects and when I pulled the bolt out of the latch the nut fell inside the gate. That was 4yrs ago. ben/ michigan
If you use transmission fluid to unstick a lifter remember to add some more oil soon because the transmission fluid burns off pretty fast and the oil level drops quickly.
My 5.3 is quiet but I do run a qt of Mystery oil all the time in the pan. Marvel, ATF and hydraulic fluids in general are high in detergent, so it cleans orifices & galleys nicely. notice how clean the inside of an automatic transmission will be..but the crap will go to the oil filter. and if you change your oil more often than the usual interval, that's always a plus for your engine. it never hurts and I always do my own so I know what products are going in. I don't want what's in the drum-of-the-month or a very cheaply made filter. so, 5 qts 5W/20, and 1 qt red stuff for the 6 qt fill.
Hello, thanks for the info. Are you saying you run the 5w20 with the 6th quart red for the entire oil change cycle? Or do you run it for a little while then change the oil again? Thx
I have always used 1 qt. Of ATF, then 4Qts of cheap motor oil and new oil filter run the engine for 100 miles at alternating speeds, and it has always worked for me then change the oil and filter the normal way
Is the 4.3 in that truck the same platform as an LS V8? If so, I wonder if the O-Ring for the oil pick-up tube is in need of replacement (to bring the oil pressure up)? I also wonder if that ATF will cause that O-Ring to swell and seal better, and see an increase in oil pressure over time?
You don't know how much I wish you were in my area. I would be a loyal customer just like so many you have Sir. Thank you for your service 😅pun intended😅
love your videos kenny .good stuff always..i watched a video of a guy put plexy glass on side of block and oil pan and kept adding oil till it was like full foaming out the engine .haha but what i did learn is a person need not worry if you over fill by even a quart .probably better in the case of heavy service . keep the videos coming kenny it makes my morning coffee taste better .
Ive got an 01 2500hd 6.0 with an extremely loud tap like this, but its intermittent while driving. Especially if I get any rpms in the first 10 min of driving. It'll come in gradually, make a ton racket for a bit then fade away. I normally stop and shut it down, alot of the time it'll be gone after a few min of sitting. Sometimes it's weeks without, sometimes its everyday.
My 2004 Dodge Dakota 4.7L V8 does this, not as loud, but it pretty much tells me I'm down about a quart. It didn't happen much until the last year. I seem to have some leaky gaskets causing the issue. Ran the truck since new and never had to put oil, so I guess it's time. Doing the valve covers this week, but the oil pan looks like it will be a pain in the bottom to remove it, being a 4x4 and stuff in the way.
Be weary of "lifter lash" on that 4.7 the actual lifter will eventually come off it happened to me shot a hole through the valve cover and the entire upper valve train on that side was fked They have clips that prevent this it's not to bad of a job just pop off the valve covers And pit them on if your hearing that tick you might want to get that done ASAP, I didn't know anything about any of it until after it was too late.
Hello Sir your AWESOME I HAVE A 2014 5.3 TAPPING. I USING FULL SYNTHETIC OIL O-20W. WHEN I USE DO I USE SYNTHETIC ATF OR STANDARD. THNX KEEP UP GOOD WORK
1/2 a gallon of Barrymans Chem Dip right on top of the oil, it eats sludge and carbon. You need to flush after running it a few times. I no longer replace oil senders and oil pumps , works well for lifters as well.
My mechanic told me to throw a can of Seafoam in the oil about 50-100 miles prior to an oil change to help flush out sludge. Man, the chunks of crap that came out of the oil on my GMC 6.5 TD with 180k on it.
My sierra had that hard start rough idle and at times a long crank at the key. It was a leak in the fuel system at the absolutely rotten rusted fuel pump inlet on top of the tank. The way they're made water gets up there and puddles and rusts it all out. I had an air and fuel leak.
GREAT LEARNING EXPERIENCE THANKS SOOO MUCH.( GMC SERRA-MY TREAM TRUCK) ... WISH THERE WAS SOMETHING LIKE THIS ON THE LATE 80S BRONCOS ... SOO MANY QUARKS .. DIFFICULT THINGS IGINITION WARING, FUEL INJECTION HAS MANY CHALLENGES... BEST WISHES THERIN
How about sticking piston rings(oil) will transmission oil work, or should I take out the spark plugs out and fill up the cylinders with combustion chamber cleaner?…the problem is idling engine will start to smoke after five minutes…pcv changed already
It's Mrs Wrenching. Put this up on our Facebook page wrenchingwithkenny. Include the year, make, model of the vehicle. Be sure to add any codes that the truck has stored or is throwing now. There are lots of people on there to help. Kenny will be on the FB page later tonight. Keep wrenching 🔧 Meg
I have same problem and have a question ❓ what idle you set up when you do calibration because my long fuel trim reading is+25 at idle but in driving fluctuate low to 7-5-10-13-18-doing at stop signal coming back to+25 is that normal thanks ef you respond sr appreciate any way for your nice school video you are amazing mechanic ❤
I had a 2002 Silverado, and the tailgate latch is a common problem. The center pivot behind the handle gums up and won't let the cables return when you close it. Many of these are running around with a ratchet strap holding the tailgate closed because the owner hasn't figured out how to fix it.
Thank you for sharing! Do they have an adapter to hook-up to the OBD 2 and my laptop to read and change the car computer settings? Thanks again for sharing your knowledge with us!!
Great video and simple fix. By the way - what year was that truck - to me it looked like somewhere of the age of 2004 to 2007, the reason I ask is the older trucks are more simple to work on .
I dont think it was coincidence . I wasnt there to see or hear it first hand obviously , but as a 30yr mechanic for whatever reason my brain said the tick as comong from the drivers side , maybe thats My coincidcence in this but I think it was the Drivers side and as soon as that ATF fluid ran down the Pushods hole it immedialtely would reach that lifter . You know it doesnt take much to stick and/or unstick those s.o. b.z' when theyre doing that...👍
Mine was ticking, I changed the oil and found the filter was the one I put on (k&n) even though I hired it done the last time, bet they skipped the oil change too. It quit ticking after the change and I exclusively change it myself from now on. If you hire it done check the oil color and filter to verify
I’m sure you already noticed this but the right side taillight you installed is slightly different than the existing left side assembly. If you have a replacement left side taillight that matches the right side I would install it. If it were my truck I would want them to match.
I have a 2004, 5.3. it developed a lifter tick around 100,000 miles. It would go away after the engine got warm, until one day it did not go away. I removed the valve covers and discovered that I had a head with porosity. I was getting antifreeze in the oil, causing it to sludge up. I ended up replacing both heads, and installing new lifters. I flushed the engine with seafoam, and transmission fluid added to the oil, twice in less than 200 miles. After running another 22,000 miles I have not had any more problems with the oil. I installed 799 heads from a 2014. They do not have the porosity problems some of the other heads do.
Sounds familiar. Had a 97 S-10 with that 4.3 engine. Decent power for that little truck. Not so much for a full size. Made ~180 horsepower or something like that which plenty for the S-10.
Same tick in my 2013 6.2l yukon. Engine runs fine but that tick is definitely there on the passenger side. Tick JUST started too. 177k miles. You think this trick might work for me? 😬
Great video Kenny ... Kudos from ENC ! My question is my 2015 GMC Sierra truck with 100,000 has a slight tick and uses full synthetic oil .. What trans oil or other oil do you recommend for these engines ? Thanks !
I'm having a serious problem with my work truck (05 silverado 5.3) and it's rendering me from working. Anytime I hit a bump or railroad tracks (work a lot in the country) the motor loses power. It continues to idle but loses all power like I've lifted my foot off of the throttle. In the same moment I notice the temp gauge drops to about 150 or so. It had gotten so bad I couldn't drive so I put in a new Temp Sensor and it ran great for about a week, now it's beginning to get bad again.
Common sense and old school thinking often solve mechanical problems- Kudos on the fix
We don't do this to get wealthy and drive yachts. It's one of those careers that calls to you when you are a kid. and it never stops, even when you don't do it for a living anymore. it's what you are. 🏁
Was a old saying for noisy lifters , piston slap, rear dif -" put a handful of oak sawdust in the oil- will tighten up things"😀
You are an excellent mechanic. Why you ask? Well because this is what I would have done. Instead of just saying “hey it needs lifters” you actually tried to save the customer money and make a real diagnosis, instead of just throwing parts on it. You don’t realize how much shops would have just changed lifters, pushrods etc. Great work once again!
and they would have "GOUGED" the ever livin shit out of the customer...
Many so called mechanics these days are just glorified parts changers.
I mean...he cleaned the throttle body and ran a scan all after he solved the customer complaint. He made sure he got his day wage even though it was fixed for under 60$.
Trust no repair shop or especially the Dealerships , sad state of affairs these days. Confirm all work , get more than one diagnosis. Their in it for the all the MONEY that can be extorted from the job.
So. He's excellent because you're excellent? Weird compliment
I sure love the simplicity of a car or truck that isn't overloaded with electrical stuff that just goes bad.
Seriously. Tell me there isn’t a market for a simple old school truck without all the ass ticklers and cameras and screens? Somebody wake up and make one.
My 11 Silverado has both of these issues. Ain’t many of you old school guys left that help fellas and fellettes save money. Subscribed.
Thanks for your comment & watching the channel. Keep wrenching 🔧
I recall a 64 Chev pickup so sludged up the V6 wouldn't run. We drained what we could then poured 2 gallons of kerosene in it. Pulled the spark plugs, chained it to a small tractor, put it in 4th gear and pulled it around slowly for 15 minutes. Drained and repeated 3 times. Then 5 quarts ATF and new filter. New points, plugs and drove it 50 miles. Regular oil and new filter and it ran great by then. That engine lasted many years after that.
Was it a GMC with the big V6? A Chevy would have had a straight 6 or V8.
I use the $5 motor flush on a hot engine, let it idle a long time and most of the sludge melts away and drains out quickly during the oil change.
It has unstuck lifters and freed sticking rings. I've had great luck with it on many neglected used vehicles.
@@davidparker9676 Are you letting the vehicle sit with the flush longer than what the manufacturer recommends or are you following the instructions? Just asking what your approach is and nothing more!
@@christophersanchez7130For best cleaning, get the engine fully hot by taking it for a long highway drive, at least an hour. Then add the motor flush quart to the hot engine and let it idle, manufacturer says 5 minutes, I do it for 15 minutes. Do not drive or rev the engine with the motor flush in it, just idle. After those 5-15 minutes, immediately drain the hot oil and flush, it will be thin and splash more than a regular oil change so be ready with rags etc.
Do your new oil change but don't fil it all the way, leave it about 1/2 to 1 quart low. If it is still making lifter noise, add either Sea Foam to your oil and drive it or add Rislone to the oil and drive it on long drives to get the oil with the Rislone treatment nice and hot. A sticky lifter should free up if it is possible to be saved. If the engine was neglected and full of sludge, do the flush at every oil change until the sludge gets melted away and drained out of the pan.
So tell me,…..
What V6 was in a 64 pick up ???
Inline 6 cyl 230 235 250 are all probable
But I don’t recall no V6 in that vintage
I'm not a professional mechanic, but I've been wrenching on my own and my family's vehicles for more than 40 years. I really appreciate the no nonsense, old-school approach you use. At many shops, they would want to tear the heads off to repair that lifter tick. Sometimes the KISS method is the absolute best!
Can’t believe my luck finding this TH-cam. I have a Chevy 2007 dually that needs the tailgate latch replaced. Outstanding!!
Did adding atf fluid fix that 😂
@@BeefNEggs057😂😂
It does often🎉🎉@@BeefNEggs057
I'll take an ol school mechanics advice anyday....I'm one myself but I don't claim to know it all....these types of videos are awesome .....thanks.
Always run a quart of transfluid before I change my oil so I'm one quart over New or old cars especially race engines Nice that someone like you brings this to everyone's attention
Danm 150k views, Kenny is getting popular. Anyone out there who has the 5.3 with lifter issues, if using seafoam or trans fluid doesn't do it, then good chance the issue is low oil pressure. The o-ring that connects from the oil pickup tube to the oil pump goes flat, then oil pressure becomes too low, which makes the hydraulic lifters unable to collapse. There are multiple videos on youtube of this. I just did it myself on my 05 suburban with a pretty loud lifter noise. If you end up performing the work also remember to clean out the bottom of the oil pan, and clean the oil pickup tube screen.
I bought a used 1996 Blazer with the 4.3 this past November that had sat for over 6 months. Once I replaced the battery, cables and cleaned the fuel tank, it fired right up but had the tick. Changed the oil and filter with high mileage oil and a Wix filter. I am going to try the atf in the oil, it`s due for a change again, really do not want to do a cam and lifter swap. I will replace the Injector system due to really bad mpg-10-11mpg. I bought the AC Delco upgrade spider injector upgrade kit. Thanks for this tip Kenny, you have a new sub. So glad this video came up in my feed.
Had the same lifter tick in my 99 Silverado, has just over 150k on it! Used Seafoam in it and took it away. Bought it brand new in 98. Truck still runs strong! I like it better than my 2016. Great videos Kenny!
Old school t t icks do help save time an motor repairs
Essentially anything lighter than motor oil could unstick it. a can of engine flush might do it as well, but don't drive with that, follow it's instructions carefully.
Me as well my beat up 06 I drive more than the 18 Silverados 260,000 to 1600 bought it a year ago with 4644 on it wonderful chevys
Well I replaced my lifters and rockers on my 2000 silverado 4.3 only because they had 225 k on them and the new lifters are ticking wtf? Oil has 60 psi hot. And oil is getting up to each rocker. Have i screwed my engine up? The lifters are stock melling replacements.
@@srryan1changed em at 225k? Why? I've got damn near 350 and no issues on my '98. My buddy's '95 is pushing 500k and is all stock from factory besides the typical consumables like water pump(s) wires and plugs and one head gasket (of which is almost certain was a faulty install at factory or possibly a bad or damaged inadvertently during install gasket from factory) The old adage "If it AIN'T broke, DON'T fix it" comes to mind. Most of the time, in my experience, you go monkeying around with things that aren't TRULY presenting an issue, you just wind up CREATING an issue for yourself.
Rislone oil treatment never failed using it 50 years!
You sir, are an excellent mechanic 👍🇺🇸 Reminds me of Rainman Ray in Florida 👍
The 4.3 is a very durable engine! I had one in my 93 Silverado with 330,000 miles. Was still in great condition. I sold her last year for $2800. The only thing I didn't like was that no matter what I would do, it would only get 9-10 miles in the city.
That's a great story! Thanks for sharing. Keep wrenching 🔧
I had a 97 w/t 1500 with over 200k miles daily driver, one cold morning 11 degrees Fahrenheit got off night shift, jumped in and took off about 10 minutes later I was wondering why I wasn’t getting any heat for the defrost, glanced at temp gauge and noticed it was still climbing, got about 6 miles farther down the road and gauge was pegged into the danger zone, pulled off and shut her down, sat for awhile and it would not even turn over, long story short. Towed home changed the oil it fired up and ran like nothing happened, sold it about 6 months later and it still is on the road 😊
I wish that was for sale. Great older work trucks are hard to find here in Pennsylvania. Love your videos
I love them. I have four late 90 OBS GM trucks. Run great and easy to work on. A bonus is they are going up in value on good ones.
I learn something new from almost every video you put out. I just wish I could apprentice under you for a couple months.
When I was 16 in '67, I worked at a gas station and we had a product called Lifter Lube that worked great.
ATF does work well for clearing lifters as well as helping the seals stay nice and resilient. Another great thing for clearing lifters and it works a lot quicker than ATF. Is Marvel Mystery Oil. All of these vehicles that have hydraulic issues like the hydraulic lash adjusters on 3.7 and 4.7 Chryslers and the 3.6 L Chrysler and Chevrolet engine. It even helps keep the oil passages to the cam phasers on that 5.3 L three valve Ford engine nice and clean.
You are a ok on this truck I have told others about trans oil in the motor and many others tell me you can not do that i have known this for years, and you are right it works well.
Have heard the ole transmission oil trick for clicking engines for years.
Ford Rangers, back in the couple of years of production, had a 2.8L V6 engine with solid lifters that would start sounding like a Singer Sewing machine after about 60,000 miles. No way to fix them. Another one of those “Better Ideas” from Ford.
Thank You. I appreciate the practical knowledge you present. And the simple reminders especially just tight. 😁. It is a pleasure watching a professional
That was a great video and I appreciate great information and your efforts to make the video and help people learn from your experience. Thank you very much.
My truck’s ticking was getting louder and louder. I followed your suggestion and the ticking went away before I left the my street.
Liked and subscribed!
Addicted to your videos😂. One of the best mechanics channels on TH-cam imo.
taillight---there is a difference---take another look----black outline----great video----
4.3 in my 91 was a horse i pull (truck and trailer loaded)" 8000 pounds many times and did it good and that had a 700r4 4x4 trans motor went out 350,000 oil change every 15,000 with full synthetic oil every day driver 100 miles a day wish i had one more
About 41 yrs ago had 1973 Catalina 400ci, popping out the carb. Added quart and a half of kerosene in the oil. Let it idle with some gentle periodic revs of engine for 40 minutes. Hanging intake valve cleared up. No more popping. Changed oil n filter. Engine was fine for many more years.
Years ago I bought a 59 Olds that was noisy as hell. I thought it needed lifters. My older brother (I was only 17) called BS. We changed the oil & put straight tranny fluid in it, the old red stuff. Drove it around easy for about 200 miles total. It went quiet & we changed the oil back to normal. Tranny fluid was a light weight high detergent cleanser for those lifters. Now days I use a quart of engine flush or even diesel for about 20 minutes & get a much better cleansing before an oil change. I never get rid of anything below 250K, never have these problems.
I have learned it don't take long for the plastic clips to harden and break again , so what I do now is go to O Rileys and grab a couple packs of mixed carburetor linkage clips, there is usually a couple of each ,left & right and use them , never had to do the job again 🤔 also I've had good luck with Marvel's Mystery Oil for sticky valves and lifters ,my old 1964 Ford pickup actually recommended it back in the day ! Great video
Do you leave the marvels in, or more a like a flush?
Left it in the tank, just used it like every 5th fill up .
Oil change using the transmission fluid from a change, idle 20 min., then new oil...fixed dirty lifters...Toyota 4cyl.
What do you mean “fluid from a change”?
Thank you, I just got a 5.3 van delivered with the Tick and I’m exploring options before I go all the way in on a lifter job
Why use contaminated trans fluid? Terrible idea for anyone sir.
I have added about 6 ounces of Seafoam to the oil in my 2002 F150 5.4L 2V engine (171,000 miles) about 30 miles before changing the last couple of oil changes. The oil is blacker when drained and it is a little quieter on cold starts afterwards.
Your video lead me down the path to finding my tick. Not exhaust and not lifter, and not coil but close...spark plug was loose and was blowing exhaust. Pretty obvious once you see one of the four boots wiggling.
@BartGampe I'm glad you caught it before it blew the plug out of the head. Thanks for your comment & watching the channel. Keep wrenching 🔧
Was it a fast tick?
Good informative vid.
GMC: that's
Got Mechanic Coming.
I hear more GM models with that distinctive lifter tick than any other manufacturers models.
It's an iconic GM sound. Tick tick boom 🤣. I have that similar truck but labeled in Chevrolet: that's Chacked Heads Every Valve Rattles Oil Leaks Every Time.
I have no loyalty to any manufacturer, they all have there good, bad, & ugly. I poke fun at all of them. Love it when a guy gets worked up and starts arguing defending his car manufacturer. So I do have something similar a used 01 Silverado 5.3 lasted 306,000+ till a gasket gaveup and decided to start leaking coolant into the crankcase. Replaced engine &transmission from another totaled 01 Silverado 5.3 I got for free. Lowest cost ride I have owned. Spend little more on gas but still saved a heck a lot more than everyone else.
I had a 97 S-10 with the same motor, that IAC was the bane of my existence
Yes, I have also used the XMSN oil trick myself to quiet noisy lifters.
I like the Type F, I think it has a higher detergent level.
I also like Seafoam and Magic Mystery Oil.
WD-40, water displacing oil works pretty well In many places,
It can be used to clean out wet distributor caps.
I change oil every 2,500 miles, so I have very few internal engine problems.
I have had a couple of those 4.3 liter Chevy V-6's, very durable and reliable,
I think they are 5.7 liter (350 cubic inch) V-8's with two cylinders chopped off.
I also use old toothbrushes for cleaning just about everything, from guns and
automotive/aircraft/engine parts to household cleaning, etc, etc.
I am a retired military and FAA, Airframe and Powerplant (A & P) Mechanic.
I like Wrenching with Kennys videos and old school process.
He has a straight foreward and logical approach to diagnosing and repairing that I like.
I got tired of th plastic clips on my 02 Chevy tailgate latch breaking. I went thru my old carberators that are no good and robbed the metal linkage clips and modified them to clip on the rods to the handle. That was 10 years ago and no mre problems.
I have a 5.3 LS1 with "the tick" right now. My Brother in law was a GM service tech for many years. He told me to do an oil change and keep one quart out and sub with transmission fluid. run it through the oil cycle (3K or so). Drain and refill with all oil. He said 80% of the time, it would unstick the lifter on LS1's like mine. Displacement on demand engines are a whole other poop show. I'm gonna try it, what the heck.
5.3L LS1? What, did you resleeve it with super thick sleeves and use truck pistons for some reason?
I had to replace the hydraulic lifters in my 5.7 litre Chevrolet LS1 V8 engine about ,54,000 kilometres ago (4 1/2 years ago) because they were jamming up inside of the lifter bores & the valves were actually hitting on the piston crowns except on cylinder number 8 & I am lucky none of them got bent.
The hydraulic lifters mushroomed out on the roller end but the engine has been going trouble free since I replaced them !
Great job! I'm glad you got that done. Thanks for sharing. Keep wrenching 🔧
I've used it in the tank too. Works great cleaning injectors or spider injection
What kind of tank do you own? Where do you drive it, military shows?
good job Kenny! Nice looking truck!
I watch a lot of mechanics video's and for certain, they almost never use penetrating oil before removing bolts. It's a simple procedure that saves time, money, and bolts...
A tiki LS motor is most likely the oil pickup tube seal. I have cured this on three other LS engines in pickups by changing the seal on the oil pickup tube
Is this when you hear a ticking upon cold start then goes away within a few seconds once it’s warming up?
ACdelco engine oil supplement and amsoil SS always worked for me... Transmission oil for a clean up will also do.
Nice job. Just a heads up if I might. On the throttle body on that vintage 4.3 there is a "wedge" fastened to the throttle valve to achieve a specific rate of air flow change when coming off idle. The V8's do not have it. Careless cleaning or being aggressive with that wedge can cause it to become loose. Removing it may cause a min air error.
One thing for sure, that wedge becoming detached while the engine is running could ruin your day.
This happened to me on my 01 s10 4.3. Came to a stop and the wedge got lodged between the blade and the egr tube in the intake. Had to hold the brake down hard 😂 i ripped it off and it still had the rivets in it. Took the blade out and hammered them flat to get a good seal and put it back on. Lasted 125k miles till I sold it still going strong.
@@ChrisTheBmxGuy Glad there were no air flow rate errors. I had a 88 S10 EL model. 2.5 Iron Duke motor with 5 speed Borg Warner trans. Absolutely a no frills truck. Being a gm power train designer my employee price was $5895. Drove it to 173,000 miles before the salt killed it. Wish I could get another commuter like that again!
old school always works. Very nice
Mine is a 2000 c2500 classic with the 350. I bought it 5 years ago with 82k miles. It never ticks cold, only when the oil warms up. It's in the bottom, not the top. I figured the oil was too thin. Did a change with 0w-40 synthetic. It started easier, and quieted the tick significantly.
3 comments: 1) ATF works in Diesel fuel to clean injectors too. 2) My 4.3 LVO vin code H: vvt & afm, the same as the 5.3 & 6.0 for possible lifter collapse. 3) I was hoping you'd pull the latches so I could see. I went to replace my tailgate cables with quick connects and when I pulled the bolt out of the latch the nut fell inside the gate. That was 4yrs ago. ben/ michigan
Gracias Señor , I had that problem a day ago 😌👍👌
If you use transmission fluid to unstick a lifter remember to add some more oil soon because the transmission fluid burns off pretty fast and the oil level drops quickly.
I dig the 30ish year old Forward lift! Solid unit! looks like A DP09 or DP97
Have a 99 tahoe 5.7 vortec. Has the lifter ticking on warm up. Will have to give this a try.
Video notes add some transmission fluid to engine oil to help unstick lifters.
Very nicely done. Thank You!
Thanks for the info. Seafoam seems to work great also.
My 5.3 is quiet but I do run a qt of Mystery oil all the time in the pan. Marvel, ATF and hydraulic fluids in general are high in detergent, so it cleans orifices & galleys nicely. notice how clean the inside of an automatic transmission will be..but the crap will go to the oil filter. and if you change your oil more often than the usual interval, that's always a plus for your engine. it never hurts and I always do my own so I know what products are going in. I don't want what's in the drum-of-the-month or a very cheaply made filter. so, 5 qts 5W/20, and 1 qt red stuff for the 6 qt fill.
Hello, thanks for the info. Are you saying you run the 5w20 with the 6th quart red for the entire oil change cycle? Or do you run it for a little while then change the oil again? Thx
I have always used 1 qt. Of ATF, then 4Qts of cheap motor oil and new oil filter run the engine for 100 miles at alternating speeds, and it has always worked for me then change the oil and filter the normal way
My 04 Silverado has the 4.3 with 220 thousand and runs like new. Mobil 1 with a half of container of Lucas Oil Treatment. Great Motor
Is the 4.3 in that truck the same platform as an LS V8? If so, I wonder if the O-Ring for the oil pick-up tube is in need of replacement (to bring the oil pressure up)? I also wonder if that ATF will cause that O-Ring to swell and seal better, and see an increase in oil pressure over time?
I am from Malaysia and really enjoy your videos. Awsome
Yeah, I got something out of that, thx. Didn't know about the sticky lifter with ATF though. Maybe just forgot about that as I aged, lol.
You don't know how much I wish you were in my area. I would be a loyal customer just like so many you have Sir. Thank you for your service
😅pun intended😅
I have a 5.3 that ticks sometimes
love your videos kenny .good stuff always..i watched a video of a guy put plexy glass on side of block and oil pan and kept adding oil till it was like full foaming out the engine .haha but what i did learn is a person need not worry if you over fill by even a quart .probably better in the case of heavy service . keep the videos coming kenny it makes my morning coffee taste better .
Thanks so much for your kind words. I really appreciate you taking the time to reply. Keep wrenching!
Ive got an 01 2500hd 6.0 with an extremely loud tap like this, but its intermittent while driving. Especially if I get any rpms in the first 10 min of driving. It'll come in gradually, make a ton racket for a bit then fade away. I normally stop and shut it down, alot of the time it'll be gone after a few min of sitting. Sometimes it's weeks without, sometimes its everyday.
I've Used Trans fluid on swelling the crank seals on a 2 stroke to get a little more life out it
My 2004 Dodge Dakota 4.7L V8 does this, not as loud, but it pretty much tells me I'm down about a quart. It didn't happen much until the last year. I seem to have some leaky gaskets causing the issue. Ran the truck since new and never had to put oil, so I guess it's time. Doing the valve covers this week, but the oil pan looks like it will be a pain in the bottom to remove it, being a 4x4 and stuff in the way.
Be weary of "lifter lash"
on that 4.7 the actual lifter will eventually come off it happened to me shot a hole through the valve cover and the entire upper valve train on that side was fked They have clips that prevent this it's not to bad of a job just pop off the valve covers And pit them on if your hearing that tick you might want to get that done ASAP, I didn't know anything about any of it until after it was too late.
Amazing mechanic thanks for sharing your advice!
@David-zp8rz Thank you for your kind words. Keep wrenching - Kenny
Hello Sir your AWESOME I HAVE A 2014 5.3 TAPPING. I USING FULL SYNTHETIC OIL O-20W. WHEN I USE DO I USE SYNTHETIC ATF OR STANDARD. THNX KEEP UP GOOD WORK
Love your videos. Hello from Miami FL 👋
Thank you for watching !!
my dipstick tube did the exact same thing there was a small hole in the tube that I clamped a small piece of vacuum hose around to seal it up
I use transmission fuild in my old trucks about every 3rd oil change. Keeps them clean and no ticking.
Good job Kenny
1/2 a gallon of Barrymans Chem Dip right on top of the oil, it eats sludge and carbon. You need to flush after running it a few times. I no longer replace oil senders and oil pumps , works well for lifters as well.
My mechanic told me to throw a can of Seafoam in the oil about 50-100 miles prior to an oil change to help flush out sludge. Man, the chunks of crap that came out of the oil on my GMC 6.5 TD with 180k on it.
My sierra had that hard start rough idle and at times a long crank at the key. It was a leak in the fuel system at the absolutely rotten rusted fuel pump inlet on top of the tank. The way they're made water gets up there and puddles and rusts it all out. I had an air and fuel leak.
If it has low oil pressure,
Replace the oil pickup tube seal!
Fixed mine
I've got an '06 Silverado. It had a ticking sound on start-up that I traced to a heat shield. After warm-up it would quit.
GREAT LEARNING EXPERIENCE THANKS SOOO MUCH.( GMC SERRA-MY TREAM TRUCK) ... WISH THERE WAS SOMETHING LIKE THIS ON THE LATE 80S BRONCOS ... SOO MANY QUARKS .. DIFFICULT THINGS IGINITION WARING, FUEL INJECTION HAS MANY CHALLENGES... BEST WISHES THERIN
WHY ARE YOU YELLING?
@@gungadingo SO ITS EASIER TOOOO READ......EOM
Try the ol kerosine in the oil trick let it idle 20 minutes or so then drain it, out fresh oil.
How about sticking piston rings(oil) will transmission oil work, or should I take out the spark plugs out and fill up the cylinders with combustion chamber cleaner?…the problem is idling engine will start to smoke after five minutes…pcv changed already
It's Mrs Wrenching. Put this up on our Facebook page wrenchingwithkenny. Include the year, make, model of the vehicle. Be sure to add any codes that the truck has stored or is throwing now. There are lots of people on there to help. Kenny will be on the FB page later tonight. Keep wrenching 🔧 Meg
I have same problem and have a question ❓ what idle you set up when you do calibration because my long fuel trim reading is+25 at idle but in driving fluctuate low to 7-5-10-13-18-doing at stop signal coming back to+25 is that normal thanks ef you respond sr appreciate any way for your nice school video you are amazing mechanic ❤
I had a 2002 Silverado, and the tailgate latch is a common problem. The center pivot behind the handle gums up and won't let the cables return when you close it. Many of these are running around with a ratchet strap holding the tailgate closed because the owner hasn't figured out how to fix it.
Thank you for sharing! Do they have an adapter to hook-up to the OBD 2 and my laptop to read and change the car computer settings? Thanks again for sharing your knowledge with us!!
Great video and simple fix. By the way - what year was that truck - to me it looked like somewhere of the age of 2004 to 2007, the reason I ask is the older trucks are more simple to work on .
2004
I dont think it was coincidence . I wasnt there to see or hear it first hand obviously , but as a 30yr mechanic for whatever reason my brain said the tick as comong from the drivers side , maybe thats My coincidcence in this but I think it was the Drivers side and as soon as that ATF fluid ran down the Pushods hole it immedialtely would reach that lifter . You know it doesnt take much to stick and/or unstick those s.o. b.z' when theyre doing that...👍
My first thought..
Mine was ticking, I changed the oil and found the filter was the one I put on (k&n) even though I hired it done the last time, bet they skipped the oil change too. It quit ticking after the change and I exclusively change it myself from now on. If you hire it done check the oil color and filter to verify
I’m sure you already noticed this but the right side taillight you installed is slightly different than the existing left side assembly. If you have a replacement left side taillight that matches the right side I would install it. If it were my truck I would want them to match.
17:30 yes he bought a pair
17:30 yes he bought a pair
I've been thinking about the toothbrush deal to clean out throddel body .
I have a 2004, 5.3. it developed a lifter tick around 100,000 miles. It would go away after the engine got warm, until one day it did not go away. I removed the valve covers and discovered that I had a head with porosity. I was getting antifreeze in the oil, causing it to sludge up. I ended up replacing both heads, and installing new lifters. I flushed the engine with seafoam, and transmission fluid added to the oil, twice in less than 200 miles. After running another 22,000 miles I have not had any more problems with the oil. I installed 799 heads from a 2014. They do not have the porosity problems some of the other heads do.
When you don't run a motor with hydraulic lifters it takes a while for oil to get back in the lifter. 0w-20 add a little of it and the tick goes away.
Good to know. Thanks for sharing & watching the channel. Keep wrenching 🔧
Sounds familiar. Had a 97 S-10 with that 4.3 engine. Decent power for that little truck. Not so much for a full size. Made ~180 horsepower or something like that which plenty for the S-10.
Same tick in my 2013 6.2l yukon. Engine runs fine but that tick is definitely there on the passenger side. Tick JUST started too. 177k miles.
You think this trick might work for me? 😬
Make sure you check oil pressure many times it’s oil pickup sump o ring that reduces pressure so the hydraulic lifter cant send up the pushrod.
Great video Kenny ... Kudos from ENC ! My question is my 2015 GMC Sierra truck with 100,000 has a slight tick and uses full synthetic oil .. What trans oil or other oil do you recommend for these engines ? Thanks !
The same oil that he mentioned in the video. You do not use synthetic trans oil in the engine, even though the engine may take synthetic
Great videos do you advise removing a qt of oil or just adding a qt of trans fluid
We used to pour some Marvel in the carburetor to unstick lifters.
This happened to me in a 04 Durango 318 and was just Jiffy Lube and wrong oil weight.
I'm having a serious problem with my work truck (05 silverado 5.3) and it's rendering me from working. Anytime I hit a bump or railroad tracks (work a lot in the country) the motor loses power. It continues to idle but loses all power like I've lifted my foot off of the throttle. In the same moment I notice the temp gauge drops to about 150 or so. It had gotten so bad I couldn't drive so I put in a new Temp Sensor and it ran great for about a week, now it's beginning to get bad again.
Grandpa used ATF for lifter knocking I use Marvel Mystery Oil but when I check oil and see red I know, sticky or bad lifters
Is that pre-op or post-op fluid?