I was standing behind the blast shield With my solar eclipse glasses . But they fell off so I braved it .. Glad I did , you did AWESOME randy .. ENJOYED ..
I’m digging that mill jack with the t-slot end. Guess I’m gonna have to make me up a few of those. Nothing worse than having a complicated setup on the mill only to have your jack walk on you.
Excellent video Randy - it was all in there. LOL. The wins - the bumps - and the clever work arounds. This will be a go to video for many. Thanks for sharing. Stunning weather here today in Michigan and there is a broken Volvo in my drive. _Dan_
Great job randy turned out really nice. I have just bought a new 2hp motor for a buffing wheel. When I got the motor I needed it running in reverse. It took me 12 hours to figure out it was just two tabs to change in reverse literally a 2 second job. instead of the wiring I thought I did wrong which I took apart 3 times. With all the spade connectors I had to put on. What a pain in the backside. I hate wiring. Lol. The company I bought it from couldn't stop laughing. They said did you read the instructions. Well Daa no not really just a quick glance. Eventually it twigged after reading the instructions properly 😁
Nice result on the pulley bore. Also - had wondered how you'd cope with the rotor - but seems you got that sorted nicely... quite tricky set-up. Turned down beautifully and keyway cut looked good. Motor ran real sweet - nice.
Looked like you had a good fishing trip. If you're gonna put that much effort into a shaft repair, you've gotta use US made bearings. She sounds good! Should last another lifetime. Excellent work.
slik repair i have a vintage fairbanks morse that the shaft has a bunch of punch marks to try to make the pulley fit i need to get it fixed and probably rewound also . scared to see how much the rewind will be 220v single phase if i recall . i did a video a while back taking it apart . very cool old motor.
When your videos appear we know the material will be awesome and informative, so professional. Kindest regards. Joe. PS A wee mouse told me you are going to have a special visitor during the 'Bash'?
Hi Randy, I know I'm a little late on this one but I'm faced with the same problem. I would like to know the clearance between the shaft and pulley. I've had several tries at this and it's either to loose or to tight. what would be the proper fit? Thanks Randy...
@@RRINTHESHOP The old shaft was 1", well more like .9445" and the new one is .8745". The pulley will have to be sleeved. The original pulley was more like force fit. you really had to bang it in. With that size of shaft and from what you're saying I'm now thinking of .0003 to .0005. But would this be a minus or plus on the shaft size. This has been part of my confusion. Do I add .0005 to the .8745" shaft or do I subtract the .0005? I can't thank you enough for helping me with this. Jim
Well you have several problems to solve. Can you machine and measure in the tenths. This is difficult for most of us. So I make the shaft to a nominal size Let say 1" then machine the pulley to fit. Motor shafts are difficult to machine, pully's are easy. If your are going to sleeve the pully then make the sleeve fit tight in the pully then machine the bore to fit the motor shaft. It does not matter what one is larger or smaller. Determine what is the most difficult and least difficult process for you and your machines and abilities. Make the least difficult (Pully) the one you make to fit.
@@RRINTHESHOP I see what you're saying, I feel I can measure to within with in .0002 but machining to within 2 tens is an other thing. I have a Grizzly 12 x 36 Gunsmith lathe, and I have more tools (for a hobbyist then I can shack a stick at (just ask my wife, one more toy and there'll be trouble in paradise). The shaft will not be touched, it's .8743. So it leave me with the pulley. This is a 4 step tapered aluminum pulley for a round column mill, not easy to center on the lathe but it can be done. So my big questions is: If the shaft OD is .8743, to fit as you indicated the pulley ID should be what? I've already damaged one pulley beyond repair, which costs over $100.00. So once I take it out of the lathe chances are I probably will not be able to re-center the pulley to remove 1 or 2 tens. To top it all the key on the motor shaft is 3/16 and the key for the pulley is 5/16. I still have to figure that one out. Again, Thank you Randy for your kindness and your time. Jim So to restate the issue, If the shaft OD is .8743, the pulley diameter should be what to fit properly?
@@jimdeprey6584 Never enough tools. The key is easy, make a step key, half the key 3/16 and half 5/16. I would bore to .875 max to 1 or 2 tenths under. If it is to tight then make a lap and lap the bore a bit. Being Alu. this would be easy.
G’day Randy, a job well done. I’m thinking, 1.181 an unusual number to aim for, not 1.180 or 1.185, ah, quick calculation, 30mm. Keep hanging onto your imperial measurements, it reminds me of a past imperial age. Even after 40 years I and many others speak a fluent bi- measurement language , “ I’ll just take a couple of thou off and I’ll be at 30mm” Aussies and Brits do it all the time, it must annoy some. Cheers Peter
First time on your channel. I have a random question. I think you mentioned, in passing, you were working on a Logan lathe. What is the brand of motor we can see the ass-end of, just to the right of the headstock. It looks a LOT like an old Craftsman I have out in the shop, except mine has two output shafts.
Yes, Weld slow, weld a bead and let cool for a few min. and each bead is welded 180 deg apart on each pass. This is a induction motor and the "windings" are actually solid bars. This type of rotor can resist quite a bit of heat. Unlike a wound rotor where the windings are coils of fine wire. Thanks Ken.
I can't read. Well with a working Lathe large enough this would of been quite a bit easier and faster. This took far longer than you might think, It would be hundred's. But on a large motor well worth it. Strictly T & M job.
@@RRINTHESHOP That's ok. I have to reread stuff all the time. That was a bunch of welding, so I bet it would be high dollar. Keep up the good work and thanks for answering.
The machined surface between the welded bearing surface and the armature. This surface should be concentric with the centers. Thanks for stopping in, great question. HNY
Makes sense thank you. From the video I initially thought that the welded area was up to the diameter step up so I was wondering how you setup the steady on it.
I was standing behind the blast shield With my solar eclipse glasses . But they fell off so I braved it .. Glad I did , you did AWESOME randy .. ENJOYED ..
I learned something today and was not even trying, Thanks
Nice. Thanks Carl.
That is a very nice Jack that fits a tee nut slot. Another project idea
I’m digging that mill jack with the t-slot end. Guess I’m gonna have to make me up a few of those. Nothing worse than having a complicated setup on the mill only to have your jack walk on you.
Morning Randy! Excellent repair should serve you well for a long time,
Excellent video Randy - it was all in there. LOL. The wins - the bumps - and the clever work arounds.
This will be a go to video for many.
Thanks for sharing.
Stunning weather here today in Michigan and there is a broken Volvo in my drive.
_Dan_
Great job randy turned out really nice. I have just bought a new 2hp motor for a buffing wheel. When I got the motor I needed it running in reverse. It took me 12 hours to figure out it was just two tabs to change in reverse literally a 2 second job. instead of the wiring I thought I did wrong which I took apart 3 times. With all the spade connectors I had to put on. What a pain in the backside. I hate wiring. Lol. The company I bought it from couldn't stop laughing. They said did you read the instructions. Well Daa no not really just a quick glance. Eventually it twigged after reading the instructions properly 😁
Nicely repaired!
Thanks Brian, works great.
Good job, that should last for a long time.
Nicely done Randy! No vibration to speak of.. Sweet!
Very nice repair Randy 👍👍👍
Thanks you John.
You know a motor's done well when you don't have to chase it across the shop.. ;-) Looks good Randy.
Nicely done Randy
Nice job Randy! I especially likd the T-slot jack. You ought to market those as well.
Nice project Randy, everything looks great.
Thanks Eric. Works great.
Nice one Randy. Looks great
Nice result on the pulley bore. Also - had wondered how you'd cope with the rotor - but seems you got that sorted nicely... quite tricky set-up. Turned down beautifully and keyway cut looked good. Motor ran real sweet - nice.
Good job Randy, nice repair 👍
Great save!
Looked like you had a good fishing trip. If you're gonna put that much effort into a shaft repair, you've gotta use US made bearings. She sounds good! Should last another lifetime. Excellent work.
Nice repair job. Great video, as always.
Good Job! Very Smooth.
Thank you Royce, Works well.
Great video and great info. Just as good as it was four years ago. Did I miss something?
Great repair, great work as always
Thanks James. Got the package, thank you.
@@RRINTHESHOP Cool, can you send me some stickers? I need some for my wall. I could not move them when I moved the shop
slik repair i have a vintage fairbanks morse that the shaft has a bunch of punch marks to try to make the pulley fit i need to get it fixed and probably rewound also . scared to see how much the rewind will be 220v single phase if i recall . i did a video a while back taking it apart . very cool old motor.
Great repair, Randy. Good as new. Much better to repair a basically good old one than replace it with a maybe not so good new one...
When your videos appear we know the material will be awesome and informative, so professional. Kindest regards. Joe. PS A wee mouse told me you are going to have a special visitor during the 'Bash'?
Thank you Joe for the kind words. Mr. Pete.
Good job Randy, more like a re-manufacture job, but sweet outcome.
nice work.
Thank you.
Good job , Cheers .
great video and repair.....
Logan lathe saves the day again LOL
Yep I love the Logan. Thanks Bill.
Great job thank you
Thank you Just4Fun.
I have those same Broaches , and the smaller set.
nice job.
Thanks!
One stout looking motor!
But how do you take it out
Out of the Lathe? It was not easy, it is mounted under the gear box.
Hi Randy, I know I'm a little late on this one but I'm faced with the same problem. I would like to know the
clearance between the shaft and pulley. I've had several tries at this and it's either to loose or to
tight. what would be the proper fit? Thanks Randy...
Usually not more than about 0.001"but this will depend on the shaft Dia., a nice close sliding fit to light tapping to get it on.
@@RRINTHESHOP The old shaft was 1", well more like .9445" and the new one is .8745". The pulley
will have to be sleeved. The original pulley was more like force fit. you really had to bang it in. With that
size of shaft and from what you're saying I'm now thinking of .0003 to .0005. But would this be a minus or plus on the shaft size. This has been part of my confusion. Do I add .0005 to the .8745" shaft or do I subtract the .0005?
I can't thank you enough for helping me with this. Jim
Well you have several problems to solve. Can you machine and measure in the tenths. This is difficult for most of us. So I make the shaft to a nominal size Let say 1" then machine the pulley to fit. Motor shafts are difficult to machine, pully's are easy. If your are going to sleeve the pully then make the sleeve fit tight in the pully then machine the bore to fit the motor shaft. It does not matter what one is larger or smaller. Determine what is the most difficult and least difficult process for you and your machines and abilities. Make the least difficult (Pully) the one you make to fit.
@@RRINTHESHOP I see what you're saying, I feel I can measure to within with in .0002 but machining to within 2 tens is an other thing. I have a Grizzly 12 x 36 Gunsmith lathe, and I have more tools (for a hobbyist then I can shack a stick at (just ask my wife, one more toy and there'll be trouble in paradise). The shaft will not be touched, it's .8743. So it leave me with the pulley. This is a 4 step tapered aluminum pulley for a round column mill, not easy to center on the lathe but it can be done. So my big questions is: If the shaft OD is .8743, to fit as you indicated the pulley ID should be what? I've already damaged one pulley beyond repair, which costs over $100.00. So once I take it out of the lathe chances are I probably will not be able to re-center the pulley to remove 1 or 2 tens. To top it all the key on the motor shaft is 3/16 and the key for the pulley is 5/16. I still have to figure that one out.
Again, Thank you Randy for your kindness and your time. Jim
So to restate the issue, If the shaft OD is .8743, the pulley diameter should be what to fit properly?
@@jimdeprey6584 Never enough tools. The key is easy, make a step key, half the key 3/16 and half 5/16. I would bore to .875 max to 1 or 2 tenths under. If it is to tight then make a lap and lap the bore a bit. Being Alu. this would be easy.
G'day Randy nice repair, any idea why the motor had such a slow start?
Just the way I had the VFD setup with a 10 sec windup. Thanks Rope.
Randy, 3/8" is 1 of those "magic" values. It's more than close enough for government work as 9.5 mm. To be exact, 3/8" = 9.525 mm.
G’day Randy, a job well done. I’m thinking, 1.181 an unusual number to aim for, not 1.180 or 1.185, ah, quick calculation, 30mm. Keep hanging onto your imperial measurements, it reminds me of a past imperial age. Even after 40 years I and many others speak a fluent bi- measurement language , “ I’ll just take a couple of thou off and I’ll be at 30mm” Aussies and Brits do it all the time, it must annoy some.
Cheers
Peter
First time on your channel. I have a random question. I think you mentioned, in passing, you were working on a Logan lathe. What is the brand of motor we can see the ass-end of, just to the right of the headstock.
It looks a LOT like an old Craftsman I have out in the shop, except mine has two output shafts.
Not sure who makes the motor. Thanks George.
Did the weld pull it or was it off from manufacturer. Nice welding. Thanks
I am sure the weld pulled.
Where did you purchase the broach?
MSC. Thanks Jeff.
Randy, question, when you welded the shaft did you do any thing to limit heat transfer to the winding's?
Yes, Weld slow, weld a bead and let cool for a few min. and each bead is welded 180 deg apart on each pass. This is a induction motor and the "windings" are actually solid bars. This type of rotor can resist quite a bit of heat. Unlike a wound rotor where the windings are coils of fine wire. Thanks Ken.
Thanks Randy
What would you charge to do that? Nice job.
What would I change to do what? Could you be more specific? Thanks Kurt.
@@RRINTHESHOP not change, charge to do that job.
I can't read. Well with a working Lathe large enough this would of been quite a bit easier and faster.
This took far longer than you might think, It would be hundred's. But on a large motor well worth it.
Strictly T & M job.
@@RRINTHESHOP That's ok. I have to reread stuff all the time. That was a bunch of welding, so I bet it would be high dollar. Keep up the good work and thanks for answering.
Thanks Kurt. I had over 200+ comments to read when I returned from fishing.
That should do nicely but a thou of run out, were you having a bad day?😤😉
Yep some days. Thanks Chris.
this is super scary
What part? Thanks Louis.
excellent repair and video, very informative, great work Randy
Hello Randy on what surface did you put the steady rest to rebuild the center? Was it on the part of the shaft that was welded?
The machined surface between the welded bearing surface and the armature. This surface should be concentric with the centers. Thanks for stopping in, great question. HNY
Makes sense thank you. From the video I initially thought that the welded area was up to the diameter step up so I was wondering how you setup the steady on it.