I used to diagnose and repair electric motors. For very small shops with limited space, inductive bearing heaters are a great option for removing bearings. Great video as alwaysvmy friend.
Good video and strong jumping off /intro to motor repair. In the field (as opposed to a shop), we typically use pullers to remove the bearings and heaters (induction commonly) to replace the bearings.
Great video, i just went through this on a maytag motor that has been discontinued for some years and the motor and motor control board was re-engineered with a different hookup to the the main washer control board so it would be costly to get a washer technician to come out and rewire the new connectors and the different number of wires was fixed by the technician. They really made it hard to replace the 2 bearings because they used snap rings to limit the bearing on the shaft when installing them back on instead of machining a step on the shaft. It was difficult to get the bearings off especially on one end where the bearing was way back on the shaft with the snap ring about 1/8" from the rotor windings. The real stickler was the the small diameter belt pulley that was hydrolic pressed on at the factory and they turned the 5/8" shaft down to 3/16" and added splines before pressing it on at the factory, this had to come off before removing the bearing after pressing it off of the raised portion on the shaft, i took it to a car mechanic and he got it off because this is common problem when working on drive transmissions or rear ends. I was able to use your technique on one bearing but the other bearing where it was hugged right up to the rotor windings i had to cut it off. I when reinstalling heated bearings up in oven on aluminum foil to 200F for 30 minutes where it wasn't hot enough to melt the grease or make it smoke and the bearings where metal shielded, i ran these out one at a time wraped in aluminum foil where i had it allready setup on my Dake arbor press and the pressed on very easy right down to the snap rings on the motor shaft. Washer works great and i even allready had the NSK6002V bearings so it only cost me 20$ at car mechanic and a lot of free time to get job done.
This video breaks down motor maintenance perfectly! For anyone tackling industrial electrical work, Johnson Electric and Controls in California is a great resource for expert troubleshooting and getting the job done right. Highly recommend checking them out for any tough fixes!
My trade was rewind electric motors, In Australia we have 240v 1 phase and 440 v 3 phase and 480 2 phase, I could still pull 1 apart without any problem. use a center punch to mark the end housing locating.
Wow two phase. Have not came across a two phase motor in over 20 years here in USA. I have a few if them up and installed 3 to 2 & 2 to 3 phase changers. Recently attempted to locate one thru the internet rated 30 & 60 amps 250 volt four fuse safety switches with no luck. Back in the 1970's a two phase safety switch cost twice as much as a three phase switch. Philadelphia & Detroit still has some old two phase services from the local electrical provider.
The real question is how Robin Renzetti would skin a cat... Another great video, Adam. Thanks for always presenting things in a clear, easy-to-follow manner.
Ive never had such an in depth description given to me on what 1/4" drive socket consists of being or had the functionality of a nut driver broken down to me in slow motion.
You never told people to disconnect the motor from power first!🤣 These motors are often compatible across different brands. I had 2 motors, one a non working motor with the right length shaft and a working motor with a shaft that was too short. Different brand motors, but I swapped the rotor out and it worked great. I do remember the back bell cap not seeing all the way because the back bearing was out just a bit further on the replacement rotor, so naturally, I just used the bell cap from the other motor and it fit together perfect. Just make sure the motors are for example both 120v single phase or both 240v etc, etc. Also, when I install the back cap, I don’t tap it in until I get all 4 screws started in their threaded holes. That way I can twist the cap slightly if I need to. Then tap it down and tighten the screws.
hello, I would like to know one thing. I would like to buy a chinese DC brushed motor, but the problem is they are somewhat possesed by chain sprockets and D shafts. Is it possible to disassemble the motor and change the D shaped shaft for the shaft with shaft key ?
So what would the differences be if this motor was explosion proof? I've recently been schooled on the method of piping the wires where they come out of the motor, and filling that pipe with cement, but we weren't able to get the motor housing apart to see how that was assembled. Doesn't seem like you'd be able to fill the motor housing with cement, though, or else it would lock the rotor in place, so now you've got me curious. Thanks!
Thanks for the video!! I’ve been a commercial construction worker for ten years (never done many thing else) New industrial maintenance trying to get ahead of the curve. Im more lacking the electrical are of things. Any videos or advice you can point me toward to help me learn this stuff outside of work?
You can always pop the seals off the bearings with a pick. I like using a starrett scribe and then you clean out the bearings and back them in place without removing it from the shaft
These bearings are sealed and this motor is clearly designed only for sealed bearing. There are no grease ports. So pulling the seals off the bearings would be a less than optimal choice for bearing life as the seals/shields help keep the grease in and contamination out.
@@cowthedestroyerThat’s possible. But typically, most would actually just replace small inexpensive bearings like these in the video. In fact… if it were a little motor like this in the field most would just replace the whole motor and not bother with opening it (unless it was highly specialized-expensive and/or had a long lead time).
Very informative video. Thank You. Why do these types of motors get louder with age? Is it a rotor/bearing issue, or something to do with the stator? I didn't see any brushes on this particular model. Is there a way to replace or repair them?
Key reasons why an electric motor becomes noisier over time: Worn bearings: The bearings within the motor are crucial for smooth rotation, but as they wear out, they can start to wobble and create additional noise. Loose stator laminations: The metal laminations in the stator can become slightly loose over time, causing vibrations and humming sounds when the motor is running. Accumulated dirt and debris: Dust and dirt can build up inside the motor, adding to friction and noise. Damaged windings: Insulation on the motor windings can deteriorate over time, causing them to rub against each other and generate noise. Improper lubrication: Lack of proper lubrication on moving parts can lead to increased friction and noise. What to do about a noisy motor: Check for lubrication: If possible, re-lubricate the motor bearings according to manufacturer recommendations. Clean the motor: Remove any dust or debris from the motor housing and cooling vents. Inspect for damage: Look for signs of wear and tear on bearings, windings, and other components. Consider motor replacement: If the noise is excessive and repairs are not feasible, replacing the motor may be necessary.
@@mjremy2605 Thank you for your very thorough response. I'm not entirely sure where to lubricate the motor. I see an access hole(?). Also bearing lubrication seems to be beyond my ability as I do not have a press to remove or replace the bearings. Am I making this harder than it is? 😄
How did you pull the shaft/rotor/bearing assembly out so easily from the stator/motor casing? My rotor is magnetically stuck to the inside of the stator. When I try to pull the assembly out of the motor housing, the magnetic force is so powerful it yanks the rotor back inside. I could probably force it out but don't want to damage it. There's no power going to the motor so I'm not sure how the electromagnet is holding the rotor in so tightly.
Only time that I had what you called magnetically held was a PM DC ( permanent magnet ) motor. Might take two.people. One pulling shaft & the second person pushing on opposite end. They expect these strong magnets only an aluminum frame. Maybe one out of every 3 or 4 burnt bout PM could I remove these magnets in one piece. Never came across one over 1 or 2 HP.
Only time that I had what you called magnetically held was a PM DC ( permanent magnet ) motor. Might take two.people. One pulling shaft & the second person pushing on opposite end. They expect these strong magnets only an aluminum frame. Maybe one out of every 3 or 4 burnt bout PM could I remove these magnets in one piece. Never came across one over 1 or 2 HP.
Only time that I had what you called magnetically held was a PM DC ( permanent magnet ) motor. Might take two.people. One pulling shaft & the second person pushing on opposite end. They expect these strong magnets only an aluminum frame. Maybe one out of every 3 or 4 burnt bout PM could I remove these magnets in one piece. Never came across one over 1 or 2 HP.
Great video to let me know what I’m getting myself into. The only question that I have is the two clips that held the one bearing under the main cap. Those clips seem to be free spinning. So should you have not put them in place first and at least snugged them down before you put that cover onto the stater? Otherwise they may have never properly engaged the bearing?
Yes, my observation as well. Should have been snugged as you suggested and now "it's too late". Also, given the somewhat condescending nature of this tutorial, there really should be some caution on the proper torque for all those fine-threaded bolts. Still, a good little video IF you have a clean, brand-new motor.
Good video. However, by the time a motor needs to be disassembled, they rarely look this clean - mine appears to be corroded together. Again, good video and thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge.
A beautifully clean modern motor. No rust, no oxidation, no seized bolts, no seized and grinding bearings which allow the shaft to slop about. Easy peasy but no relation to the real world.
Did you not read the video description, it’s for green students at the Laney College lab. It has nothing to do with the dirty, hamburgered up factors of the real world that you mentioned 😂😎.
So useful! Very grateful for your excellent video. I do need to take some classes. Too hard to figure out motors on my own. I'm fixing a mini bench grinder I found in the trash. It looks unused. But won't work. Electrical wiring below deck seems alright. It might be the switch that is bad. I took motor apart, cleaned commutator copper cylinder gently. Carbon brushes seem fine too. The stator (housing) has two strong magnets. So when putting the long bolts back in, what a job! Cannot get the 2nd bolt back in, as the magnets pull it sideways. Arrrghhh#!%%^$!! So silly to make a magnetic bolt, instead of a non-magnetic metal bolt. I'll try it vertically, but I'm so close its frustrating. I have to put an aluminum rod thru then hot glue it to the bolt to pull it through maybe? How to do this? Anyone has ideas?
Three Phase AC Electric Motor - the workhorse of industry. I would have loved to go more into the theory and discuss various types of motors. But folks can sign up for our MACH 207 - Mechanical Drives class for that 😉
It's called an AC induction motor because there is no electrical connection to the rotor. Technically it has no brushes, but the term "brushless" is reserved for other types of motors.
@@laneymachinetechclassroom That's what I thought -- but I also thought I saw brush caps on the sides of the motor housing (black round thingies). Thanks!
im looking at your stator right now if im not mistaken this turns mechanical energy into electrical energy not the opposite i'm pretty sure thats an alternator
Bearing clips should have been tightened WAY before the end (as soon as you put the bearing in front end bell 20:53). The clips needed to be turned 90 degrees to hold the bearing.
Don't think too hard about the fancy equipment. Bottle jack or scissors jack, some sturdy wood, a couple metal plates and some sockets and you can get this done. It won't be pretty, but it does work. Replaced plenty of bearings in the middle of nowhere without the "proper" tools.
For a more thorough, if not more, umm... pragmatic, electric motor repair overview, I've enjoyed watching e.g. th-cam.com/video/hmE3rxqnOaU/w-d-xo.html ... (many similar videos available on her channel).
Hello my friend! I’m from Brazil! This video is helping me to improve my English. Thanks!
I used to diagnose and repair electric motors. For very small shops with limited space, inductive bearing heaters are a great option for removing bearings. Great video as alwaysvmy friend.
Good video and strong jumping off /intro to motor repair. In the field (as opposed to a shop), we typically use pullers to remove the bearings and heaters (induction commonly) to replace the bearings.
Great video and easy to follow for anyone starting out in the electric motor repair business.
Great video, i just went through this on a maytag motor that has been discontinued for some years and the motor and motor control board was re-engineered with a different hookup to the the main washer control board so it would be costly to get a washer technician to come out and rewire the new connectors and the different number of wires was fixed by the technician. They really made it hard to replace the 2 bearings because they used snap rings to limit the bearing on the shaft when installing them back on instead of machining a step on the shaft. It was difficult to get the bearings off especially on one end where the bearing was way back on the shaft with the snap ring about 1/8" from the rotor windings. The real stickler was the the small diameter belt pulley that was hydrolic pressed on at the factory and they turned the 5/8" shaft down to 3/16" and added splines before pressing it on at the factory, this had to come off before removing the bearing after pressing it off of the raised portion on the shaft, i took it to a car mechanic and he got it off because this is common problem when working on drive transmissions or rear ends. I was able to use your technique on one bearing but the other bearing where it was hugged right up to the rotor windings i had to cut it off. I when reinstalling heated bearings up in oven on aluminum foil to 200F for 30 minutes where it wasn't hot enough to melt the grease or make it smoke and the bearings where metal shielded, i ran these out one at a time wraped in aluminum foil where i had it allready setup on my Dake arbor press and the pressed on very easy right down to the snap rings on the motor shaft. Washer works great and i even allready had the NSK6002V bearings so it only cost me 20$ at car mechanic and a lot of free time to get job done.
Well explained video showing the proper way of dismantling and reassembling the electrical motors. Thank you very much.
Simple but I appreciate seeing it all broken down. Thanks!
Sure seems like he's making it up as he goes along. None the less a great video. Thank you.
This video breaks down motor maintenance perfectly! For anyone tackling industrial electrical work, Johnson Electric and Controls in California is a great resource for expert troubleshooting and getting the job done right. Highly recommend checking them out for any tough fixes!
My trade was rewind electric motors, In Australia we have 240v 1 phase and 440 v 3 phase and 480 2 phase, I could still pull 1 apart without any problem. use a center punch to mark the end housing locating.
Wow two phase. Have not came across a two phase motor in over 20 years here in USA. I have a few if them up and installed 3 to 2 & 2 to 3 phase changers. Recently attempted to locate one thru the internet rated 30 & 60 amps 250 volt four fuse safety switches with no luck. Back in the 1970's a two phase safety switch cost twice as much as a three phase switch. Philadelphia & Detroit still has some old two phase services from the local electrical provider.
The real question is how Robin Renzetti would skin a cat...
Another great video, Adam. Thanks for always presenting things in a clear, easy-to-follow manner.
Robin doesn’t skin cats. He performs feline epidermectomy.
Very good video sir . And the “ oddly blue colored grease “ is very typical for electric motors .
Agreed. Mobil Polyrex EM
Ive never had such an in depth description given to me on what 1/4" drive socket consists of being or had the functionality of a nut driver broken down to me in slow motion.
You never told people to disconnect the motor from power first!🤣
These motors are often compatible across different brands. I had 2 motors, one a non working motor with the right length shaft and a working motor with a shaft that was too short. Different brand motors, but I swapped the rotor out and it worked great.
I do remember the back bell cap not seeing all the way because the back bearing was out just a bit further on the replacement rotor, so naturally, I just used the bell cap from the other motor and it fit together perfect. Just make sure the motors are for example both 120v single phase or both 240v etc, etc.
Also, when I install the back cap, I don’t tap it in until I get all 4 screws started in their threaded holes. That way I can twist the cap slightly if I need to. Then tap it down and tighten the screws.
Thanks a lot from Brazil, mate! It was of great help.
hello, I would like to know one thing. I would like to buy a chinese DC brushed motor, but the problem is they are somewhat possesed by chain sprockets and D shafts. Is it possible to disassemble the motor and change the D shaped shaft for the shaft with shaft key ?
So what would the differences be if this motor was explosion proof? I've recently been schooled on the method of piping the wires where they come out of the motor, and filling that pipe with cement, but we weren't able to get the motor housing apart to see how that was assembled. Doesn't seem like you'd be able to fill the motor housing with cement, though, or else it would lock the rotor in place, so now you've got me curious. Thanks!
Merci from Montreal Canada
Very helpful, thanks!
Now I just need to come up with a motor to take apart!
Thanks for the video!! I’ve been a commercial construction worker for ten years (never done many thing else) New industrial maintenance trying to get ahead of the curve. Im more lacking the electrical are of things. Any videos or advice you can point me toward to help me learn this stuff outside of work?
Jim Pytel
I actually learned a lot in this video thanks!
You can always pop the seals off the bearings with a pick. I like using a starrett scribe and then you clean out the bearings and back them in place without removing it from the shaft
These bearings are sealed and this motor is clearly designed only for sealed bearing. There are no grease ports. So pulling the seals off the bearings would be a less than optimal choice for bearing life as the seals/shields help keep the grease in and contamination out.
@@logicaljuan you can put the shield back when you are done it doesn't damage them
@@cowthedestroyerThat’s possible. But typically, most would actually just replace small inexpensive bearings like these in the video. In fact… if it were a little motor like this in the field most would just replace the whole motor and not bother with opening it (unless it was highly specialized-expensive and/or had a long lead time).
Really useful 👍
Very informative video. Thank You.
Why do these types of motors get louder with age?
Is it a rotor/bearing issue, or something to do with the stator?
I didn't see any brushes on this particular model.
Is there a way to replace or repair them?
Key reasons why an electric motor becomes noisier over time:
Worn bearings:
The bearings within the motor are crucial for smooth rotation, but as they wear out, they can start to wobble and create additional noise.
Loose stator laminations:
The metal laminations in the stator can become slightly loose over time, causing vibrations and humming sounds when the motor is running.
Accumulated dirt and debris:
Dust and dirt can build up inside the motor, adding to friction and noise.
Damaged windings:
Insulation on the motor windings can deteriorate over time, causing them to rub against each other and generate noise.
Improper lubrication:
Lack of proper lubrication on moving parts can lead to increased friction and noise.
What to do about a noisy motor:
Check for lubrication:
If possible, re-lubricate the motor bearings according to manufacturer recommendations.
Clean the motor:
Remove any dust or debris from the motor housing and cooling vents.
Inspect for damage:
Look for signs of wear and tear on bearings, windings, and other components.
Consider motor replacement:
If the noise is excessive and repairs are not feasible, replacing the motor may be necessary.
@@mjremy2605 Thank you for your very thorough response.
I'm not entirely sure where to lubricate the motor. I see an access hole(?). Also bearing lubrication seems to be beyond my ability as I do not have a press to remove or replace the bearings. Am I making this harder than it is? 😄
sir , what is the tolerance of shaft fit into the rotor bore standard
? thanks
My cement mixer Motero starts good however when running for 3 minutes the mixer stops running can you advise please.
How did you pull the shaft/rotor/bearing assembly out so easily from the stator/motor casing? My rotor is magnetically stuck to the inside of the stator. When I try to pull the assembly out of the motor housing, the magnetic force is so powerful it yanks the rotor back inside. I could probably force it out but don't want to damage it. There's no power going to the motor so I'm not sure how the electromagnet is holding the rotor in so tightly.
Only time that I had what you called magnetically held was a PM DC ( permanent magnet ) motor. Might take two.people. One pulling shaft & the second person pushing on opposite end. They expect these strong magnets only an aluminum frame. Maybe one out of every 3 or 4 burnt bout PM could I remove these magnets in one piece. Never came across one over 1 or 2 HP.
Only time that I had what you called magnetically held was a PM DC ( permanent magnet ) motor. Might take two.people. One pulling shaft & the second person pushing on opposite end. They expect these strong magnets only an aluminum frame. Maybe one out of every 3 or 4 burnt bout PM could I remove these magnets in one piece. Never came across one over 1 or 2 HP.
Only time that I had what you called magnetically held was a PM DC ( permanent magnet ) motor. Might take two.people. One pulling shaft & the second person pushing on opposite end. They expect these strong magnets only an aluminum frame. Maybe one out of every 3 or 4 burnt bout PM could I remove these magnets in one piece. Never came across one over 1 or 2 HP.
Great video to let me know what I’m getting myself into. The only question that I have is the two clips that held the one bearing under the main cap. Those clips seem to be free spinning. So should you have not put them in place first and at least snugged them down before you put that cover onto the stater? Otherwise they may have never properly engaged the bearing?
Yes, my observation as well. Should have been snugged as you suggested and now "it's too late". Also, given the somewhat condescending nature of this tutorial, there really should be some caution on the proper torque for all those fine-threaded bolts. Still, a good little video IF you have a clean, brand-new motor.
Good video. However, by the time a motor needs to be disassembled, they rarely look this clean - mine appears to be corroded together. Again, good video and thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge.
Very very very simple machine.... if that was the case nobody wouldnbe watching this lol but im learning so thanks for vid
Thanks
Awesome just subscribed 👍
A beautifully clean modern motor. No rust, no oxidation, no seized bolts, no seized and grinding bearings which allow the shaft to slop about. Easy peasy but no relation to the real world.
Did you not read the video description, it’s for green students at the Laney College lab.
It has nothing to do with the dirty, hamburgered up factors of the real world that you mentioned 😂😎.
So useful! Very grateful for your excellent video. I do need to take some classes. Too hard to figure out motors on my own.
I'm fixing a mini bench grinder I found in the trash. It looks unused. But won't work. Electrical wiring below deck seems alright. It might be the switch that is bad. I took motor apart, cleaned commutator copper cylinder gently. Carbon brushes seem fine too. The stator (housing) has two strong magnets. So when putting the long bolts back in, what a job! Cannot get the 2nd bolt back in, as the magnets pull it sideways. Arrrghhh#!%%^$!! So silly to make a magnetic bolt, instead of a non-magnetic metal bolt. I'll try it vertically, but I'm so close its frustrating. I have to put an aluminum rod thru then hot glue it to the bolt to pull it through maybe? How to do this? Anyone has ideas?
Is that a brushless motor?
Three Phase AC Electric Motor - the workhorse of industry. I would have loved to go more into the theory and discuss various types of motors. But folks can sign up for our MACH 207 - Mechanical Drives class for that 😉
It's called an AC induction motor because there is no electrical connection to the rotor. Technically it has no brushes, but the term "brushless" is reserved for other types of motors.
@@laneymachinetechclassroom That's what I thought -- but I also thought I saw brush caps on the sides of the motor housing (black round thingies). Thanks!
im looking at your stator right now if im not mistaken this turns mechanical energy into electrical energy not the opposite i'm pretty sure thats an alternator
I wish my motors were that clean.
Bearing clips should have been tightened WAY before the end (as soon as you put the bearing in front end bell 20:53). The clips needed to be turned 90 degrees to hold the bearing.
You guys have bearing clips? 🥲
@@ThorOdinson1269, yes. See 12:52.
Nice🎉
What causes the motor to have drag and hard to turn?
Thank you, always clear and well presented.
What kind of motor is this? 3 phase? Synchronous?
In the video at only 26 seconds you can see the name plate. It tells you it’s a 3 phase motor.
@@logicaljuan thank you.
Removing the rotor shaft from the rotor assembly wouldn't have been a bad idea.
Very informative but please buy a power tool. You'll get carpal tunnel using a driver.
awesome educational video sir, thank you.
Praise the Lord!
By G-d's help
In Father and King Jesus' Name, Amen ✝️✨
Yooo, where have you been man missed you and your videos
11:52 No, you didn't LIE, a lie is intentional, you just didn't know all the tools you'd need.
I am from Ethiopia nice class am industry student in collage can I get better knowledge from you
My mans had no idea what he was doing the entire video lolol
YES TAKE MANY PICTURES
Hello fellow tech priest!
Size bearing ? Where can I to buy it?
Because everybody has a hydraulic press...
I mean, you can use an arbor press but who doesn’t have a hydraulic press?
Don't think too hard about the fancy equipment. Bottle jack or scissors jack, some sturdy wood, a couple metal plates and some sockets and you can get this done. It won't be pretty, but it does work. Replaced plenty of bearings in the middle of nowhere without the "proper" tools.
My brother in christ I don't even have a motor. Enjoy the video
Well I mean its a video to disassemble an electric motor the right way, not a DIY video lol
This guy problem solves
For a more thorough, if not more, umm... pragmatic, electric motor repair overview, I've enjoyed watching e.g. th-cam.com/video/hmE3rxqnOaU/w-d-xo.html ... (many similar videos available on her channel).
Woo youtube video!
Don’t get too excited 😆
And now I'm going to pick my nose off camera, a little too much detail man.
Run it..
You speak like we are idiots.
In the big scheme of things,we all are.
This was such a lack of information
lol I have that exact same Crescent set,
Pᵣₒmₒˢᵐ
If you suffer from insomnia watch this guys videos.
As an engineer: I love this.