Removing Stubborn Shafts from Flat Belt Pulleys
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 พ.ย. 2014
- While working on the J. A. Vance Planer Matcher restoration, I had a flat belt pulley that I needed to get a stuck shaft removed from the hub. It was a battle between me and the pulley - which I finally won. This video shows the process I went through to remove the shaft from this pulley - it was not an easy job.....
It's easy to make suggestions when watching from 3000 miles away, but I just can't help myself. By placing a piece of steel pipe with an inside diameter just a bit larger than the shaft underneath the hub and pressing down on that so you are not putting any pressure on the rim of the pulley, but rather on the hub, you have a much better chance of pressing the shaft out without breaking the rim or spokes. Here in Germany flat belts are still in use to some extent and this is a common problem. Supporting the hub is the answer. Really appreciate the efforts you make to share your work with us.
just commented the exact same thing :))
***** Thanks very much Keith. I honestly would have been surprised if that was not the case, but it really didn't look like it in the video. I did enjoy watching you struggle :-).
I agree Gents.. The energy of removing the shaft from the pulley is being absorbed by the spokes and rim of the pulley..
Please excuse me for saying.. It's so easy to see what is needed for the want of trying when seeing you struggling with your press, to remove the shaft.. Just sayin'.. There is a term in suggesting moves to a player to make when playing Chess.. It's called "Kibitzing".. I hope I've spelt the term correct.. How frustrating it is something doesn't go right in "Machine Work".. GENTS.. What a Great Video Clip, this is..
This was 3 years ago. Why are people suddenly replying to this?
I feel your pain Keith. Been on jobs like that many times. They can extremely time consuming and frustrating, even worse when the customers don't want to pay you for all the time spent working on the job.
But you did good, and tackled it in the same way I would, by boring out the center. I've done that on rotor shafts before. I'm glad to see that press finally pop! Success!
Talk to ya soon.
Adam
In the truck shop I regularly press out walking beam bushings, you can try to prepare yourself for when it jumps but it always gets ya. I've had 100 tons on some before they pop. 200,000lbs. the press literally jumps 1/2" off the floor. They really should bolt that thing down. lol
We have a 50 ton press... and I had a 70 ton in my shop... yep those can bounce off ground and make you drop a load in your pants.
Abom79 ?;6
I served a student observation fortnight on the copper mine in my home town in Northern Rhodesia in the '60's. We spent a couple of days in each surface shop. When in the electrical shop we had a 400 HP electric motor come in that had just burned up on one of the crushers. It was still smoking and you had to handle it with gloves. It cooled overnight and we had to get the drive flange off the shaft. They put a "Portapac" on the end of the shaft and pumped the ram to 100 tons. It wouldn't move. The tech put a screen around it and told everyone to stay away. A couple of hours later there was an "explosion" and the "Portapac" went hurtling across the shop. The inards of the motor had finally cooled enough to allow the flange to come off but I swear we all needed clean underwear after. Good thing the tech had warned everyone to stay behind the ram so as not to get hit by it when it came off. It would have severely mamed whoever it hit if they hadn't listened.
Why not take torchcut. It out torch won't cut your cast iron
Great job on the shaft extraction and lots of good comments too. One suggestion I didn't notice was to heat the shell of the shaft AFTER it has been drilled out. I've seen problems very similar with broken bolts in engine blocks. Keith's comment early in the series not to heat a stuck bolt but to heat the casting around it is spot-on. However, after the center has been drilled out, heat on the remaining shell makes it more malleable--which is just what you need when pressing it out.
A second option is to continue the slightly off-center drilling or boring until you break through the shell in one place. Then use had tools (chisel, punch) to collapse the shell toward the center. It doesn't take a lot of collapsing until the core is lose enough to remove with very little force. I've saved many a casting this way. And in the case of a hardened steel bolt broken off in aluminum alloy engine block, collapsing a drilled-out core is sometimes the only option.
You have learned by your past mistakes, and developed new methods that work.
WOW!!! You have me on the edge of my seat!
When that finally let go, I jumped!
Good video we pressed out shafts up to 8" at an electric motor company and there were times that puckered us up waiting for shafts to move. But you really need to be wearing safety glasses with sideshields at all times in the shop.
that and welding glasses . even if only heating up metal. cutting for sure
Well I have been enjoying your episodes quite a bit I love restoring sruff when I get a chance. I realize that part of the problem in getting the shaft out was it got galled by a set screw but , I can offer two suggestions when pressing a shaft out of a cast iron pulley. 1 Support the hub of the pulley so no force is applied to the rim or spokes only the hub. This will insure that the spokes do not shatter or flex and allows you to use the full force the press. 2 When you have as much force as the press will muster, tap on the hub with a hammer or use a blunt flat air chisel bit to apply some vibration to the hub and it will let go lots easier.
Great solution finding video, I love seeing problems get solved. Videos like this are great for exercising the mind, seeing how someone else gets the job done their way and hearing alternatives from others. Please keep on posting them.
After boring the relief hole use an endmill let's say 3/4 inch diameter and plunge mill on two sides of the sleeve until you just nick the orginal hole .This will release all of the pressure. Even if you do score the old diameter it will not be detrimental to the outcome or function of the new assembly. This has worked for me when on a breakdown and don't have time to be so patient. Thanks for the video and I appreciate your calmness.
I just watched a thirty minute video about pulleys and you had me on the edge of my seat for every single minute of it!!! I was rooting for you man and you finally got it!!! Haha!!
+cottoneye joe And I thought when I started that job that it was going to be easy.....
The last time I saw this much drama surrounding pressing a shaft out of a hub, someone was pressing a tapered shaft out the wrong way.
been a while since I heard the bells, always thought I had messed up , glad to see a very close fit and good machining can, down the road get a good machinists attention. your are awesome dude . they had made it work a long time ago
I enjoying seeing these types of projects. We have all fought a project like this. Thanks for showing the techniques, methods and resolution. Best to you.
I was on the edge of my seat watching this. I was actually cringing waiting for the 'crack' as the stuck shaft started to move. I don't know about you, but I always shut my 'good eye' when I'm doing something like this - you know, for safety :-)
Brilliant video, thanks for sharing!
Kev Too funny!
Well done Keith. I would have loved to have been working on this with you. I would have told you of the fantastic tip I was once given...Weld a nut onto under side of shaft, and use a slide hammer from below whilst pressing from above...nothing beats a little impact!
I have heard abom recommend you and I am glad I found you. I really appreciate the time you take to make the videos and explain things so well. I hope one day to visit the museum as I love old farming equipment - I guess it reminds me of growing up on a farm in the 50s and 60s. Thank you again for taking the time to do this - you are a good presenter and I learn constantly.
When the shaft broke loose the first time after all that you'd been through I hollered yaaahooo! ya got it! A satisfying moment for sure. As stuck as that was I was thinking it had to have spun on the shaft at one time in the past maybe welding it to it or something along those lines, good job man! Thanks for sharing that.
Great work! I couldn't believe how tough it was to press that out, even after you had removed 95% of the shaft material. Thanks for the post-mortem - I was really curious to see why it was so stubborn.
Hi Keith,
There's a technique I've used a couple of times because I lacked a large diameter drill. I drilled the shaft offset (close to its outer surface) and then bored it out until I just broke through the surface at one point. If the shaft alignment is good, you might break through all the way through the hub, but if not, no matter. I closed the boring head down a little and offset the hub to work on the unbroken sections of the bore wall. Eventually I had a break all the way through and the shaft pressed out no problem. On another even more stubborn shaft, I had to drill a row of holes across the shaft to allow it to 'spring' more easily.
Ya, drilling 30+ 0.125" dia deep holes is NOT easy,,, just have maybe 50" long bits and continuous oil flow in a 'rock solid' setup!
On 2nd thought, do it with .250 bits ..
Sorry! " 50+ BITS , not 50" ...
hi Keith having worked in the heavy transport industry for 30 years you are doing everything correctly but for the one thing it really needs. when things are seriously time welded together only extreme smoke and perhaps heat and pressure at the same time, but shock is the key.
thanx for the videos simon
I was on the edge of my seat toward the end there. It's amazing that even with all the tools to do it right that it is still hard to do. Usually I'll just destroy the whole thing with hammers and chisels. Absolute devastation and cursing the world while I'm at, too. You make keeping your cool look easy. Calm is the hardest thing ever especially when there's rage against the machine. Thanks for setting the example on having the right demeanor. You stayed cool as a cucumber, and in the end it didn't stand a chance against your unrelenting patience.
You sound like me. If it does not shift with a hammer keep getting bigger hammers till it does shift or be wrecked in the process.
take a hacksaw and cut a vert.slit in shaft after hollowing out the shaft. This works well with old pipe in fittings.
Mike B.
Perfect and obvious (but not to Keith) solution. Or possibly run a 1/2" mill down the inside so as to leave the bottom in to press on.
Keyway broach
I love this .... and I work for Verizon... But My father worked as a Machinist for Bethlehem Steel at the Sparrows Point Maryland Plant for 40 years, so I had plenty of exposure in dads shop...He taught.t me a lot but not enough... ;-) wonderful video indeed, thank you again
+N3ITE Ham Radio Station Thank you! It is fun messing with this stuff no doubt!
+Keith Rucker - VintageMachinery.org True Craftsman. It seamed my Father and his friends could fix or make anything... It was great to grow up exposed to such artisans and craftsman...You are well accomplished and great video editing, really important, hopefully this country will get back to needing this type of craftsmanship, It reminds of a time when life was better...
As an old fitter of 40 years, when we had shaft that were stuck we would blow a hole through the shaft with a gas axe, an with care, work towards the edge. When you reach the edge the air gap between shaft and boss would stop you touching the inner boss face, you can do this both side thus the shaft becomes two shells and can then be pressed or knocked out, a bit of care and a bit of nerve, saves a lot of hard work. This even work on threaded caps.
Man what a great video! I was just waiting for that pulley to shatter and when you finally broke it free, I jumped! Must have been so satisfying.
MattsMotorz That one turned out to be a much bigger challenge than I expected. I was worried there for a while that this pulley might indeed end up in pieces on the floor before I got through.....
THE HUB OF THE PULLEY SHOULD HAVE BEEN SUPPORTED so the spokes would not be stressed & possibly fail.
I agree.
The most basic and important rule of using a hydraulic press. Support your work properly!!
My brain was screaming the whole time! You never support a pulley of any size on the outside diameter like that. I also would have cut that long shaft off, shorter the better. You could hang your body off of the jack handle and not worry about hurting the pulley when supported properly. Heating it faster with bigger/more torches would also help. The hub needs to heat much faster than the shaft for it to break the seal. Slow heating doesn't work as well or at all.
the support plates are under the hub, you just cant see them.
A method i have used is shrinking the shaft instead of expanding the pulley with heat (which i try fist) ...when you heat steel/iron up, it expands we all know that.but when it is cold again it will have shrunk sightly and will be tighter than it was originly we can use this...after you drill the shaft out if you got the stick welder and run half a dozen breads on the inside the shaft ,let it cool off it will have almost fell out...i use this method on bearing outer races that are in a blind hole and cannot be knocked/pressed out ..one zig zag weld bead all the way round the race and they literally fall out
Ingenious!
I realize this video is 5 years old but I wanted you to know that I was holding my breath as you put the pressure on this and nearly jumped out of my chair when it let go the first time. Great video and persistence.
My goodness. I have watched a gentleman in Indiana that restores Oil Pulls, Averys etc.
He has had press's on shafts like this for weeks. I would stop in to see him on my trips to Florida. Week after week the report was that he gave it another quarter turn. They always give-one way or another.
Appreciate the videos. Glad I found them. Thanks!
The mother of all stucks there Keith, glad you got it out with the pulley intact. Stuck stubborn things like that pulley can be so exasperating as to lead to Shop Rage that can result in damage to not only the part but your pride for letting that inanimate object get your goat. Stepping back and regrouping is a great way to deal with those pesky little buggers that want to drive you crazy and egg you into making a big mistake.
I had a similar situation with a larger 4" shaft.
I did the same by drilling mostly through with a 3" drill.
We put dry ice into the hole for half an hour and it just fell out.
I've also used compressed keyboard air. Spray with can upside down.
Add a bit of acetone if you do that, transfers the heat way faster.
Thanks for taking us on your “journey” Keith!
Some tense moments!! Amazing resistance to pressure on that tricky one. Sort of problem I'd always dread. Most instructive video, thanks.
Don't know why I watched this, I've done this thousands of times, but this one was a tough one. You always need a bigger lathe or a longer/larger drill bit. It's a good feeling when one finally gives it up like this one did.
CONGRATULATIONS job well done!!!
I see at 23:02 where the gremlins decided to visit, you really need to lock your doors.
This is more than I ever knew about this. Thank you, Keith.
Keith I turned wrenches for 25 years in a automotive garage. I can't tell you how much time I lost by getting mad and aggravated and not walking away when I should have. The worst for me was broken bolts in the block that I just could not get to. What a pain. I never liked the air powered Jacks because I liked the feel of how much pressure I was putting on a part. Guess a gauge would have helped. I was removing a pressed race off of a front hub and was using an air hammer with a Snap on chisel. The end of the chisel shattered and metal in bedded in my neck area. Like to have never got all the shrapnel out of me. I do not think Snap on is nowhere worth the outrageous prices they charge. If you use Snap on credit they charge you 24% interest on top of the crazy price. Thanks as always for your time and effort. You are very talented person.
Yeah that's a tough one! Thanks as always Keith!
All the tension of a Hollywood blockbuster! On the edge of my seat until that final "POP".
Guy is a smart mechanic. I worked my whole life doing things like this, and he knows what he is talking about.
I beg to differ.
You, Sir, have the patience of Job! Thank you for a lesson on patience and perseverance. Whew!
Perseverance is something you are teaching, and a lot of young fellas never learnt.
Well done bro
penetrating oil: to make "great stuff", you need 3 things: a solvent, like your acetone, a lubricant, like your trans fluid, and number 3, a substance that likes to eat rust itself. now most stuff that does isn't entirely compatible with solvents and oils, or long term soaking of ferrous metals, or both. however, there are 2 glaring exceptions: turpentine (which can also double as solvent), and plain old dollar store DOT3 brake fluid (which also kind of doubles as an oil). my "secret formula" penetrating oil is about equal parts any auto oil (used or new, no real difference), some "past it's prime" lacquer thinner, and "the old bottle of brake fluid in every garage". leaving it actually covering the part (as in submerged, not just coated) works far better, as does taking whatever container it soaks in, and leaning it against some fairly constant (or at least frequent) source of vibration (like propping it against the air compressor tank). the lube's purpose is obvious, the solvent helps cut the old goo, which increases penetration, but the "rust antagonist" is where the "magic" hides. submerged, the rust eater has ample opportunity, the vibration floats out particles in suspension, and the solvent and lube pretty much preclude it just relocating in a way that is no help to your efforts. i've gotten parking brake cables on forklifts that had spent decades in brackish sand pit duty to return to "usable until the new ones come in" condition, from "ginger cousin itt that kind of resembles a cable or something". try it, you'll like it, promise!
ludditeneanderthal Really great tip, Thanks!
@@183charlesspiva entirely my pleasure! Glad to be of help
Dexron IID and acetone 50/50 is astonishingly effective even so. Your brew is quite interesting, thanks.
Equal parts, auto transmission oil, marvel mystery oil, and brake fluid. I've actually had a pulley on a small engine fall off by its own weight after soaking it over night with this.
Hi Keith! Nice job DONE!!! I couldn't really see your press setup; but am assuming you had the hub supported either with bed steel or a big bushing? This to eliminate ANY flex in the spokes and minimize damage......I'm sure you did; I just couldn't see it.
I do a lot of big sheeves on sand & gravel equipment....a couple things: when heating a big pulley like that; don't heat the hub. Heat the rim circumference. The hub is constricted by the spokes, and heating it just makes it tighter. You heat the circumference and it stretches the spokes and grows the bore. Also; a Slice ultrathermic torch would be a great investment for the work you do. I use mine frequently on big pins (crane or dozer drive chain).....with that shaft cut off you could blow a hole right through the center and indeed it would have shrunk enough to drop out with a hammer.
I enjoyed the video......with the tools on hand you GOT IT DONE!!!! Thanks, Sean.
This is a *classic* video and one I have returned to several times. What I particularly appreciate is the non-destructive problem-solving you demonstrate Keith. Not to mention the patience of a saint!!! I am absolutely _certain_ I would have been sledging away at that thing after the first couple of hours, broken the spokes, felt intense regret and then had to find another wheel.
*Very* cool that you could give a post-mortem and identify the problem afterwards as well.
I also really enjoy the musical interludes in these older videos. I think the folk music goes very well with the spirit of preservation and appreciation of these old machine. I actually miss it quite a lot in the more modern entries. I can imagine it was quite a hassle to get that custom audio all cued up and scrubbed in with the video though. Not to mention copyright nonsense as well probably.
Still. A *real* favourite of mine and two thumbs up if YT allowed it!!!
Been there there and done that. Once had to rebuild an old cider press. All was going well until I got to one of the driver gears. I put all the pressure I felt it could stand. Just as I decided to stop pressing, BANG! The cast iron gear exploded into 6 pieces. This press was handed down from the old man's father. It turns out that it had tapered keys and that one was on backwards. The more I pressed the tighter it got. I ended up making the gear from scratch. Used gun blueing to darken it to match its twin gear. When the owner came to pick it up, he didn't believe me when I told him what happened. I had to show him the broken gear pieces. Then he could not tell which gear I had made. That made my day!
now that was a tough one,, the others have covered my thoughts, so , nice work.
That was a great and wise fundamental engineering approach, Pull on an elastic band and it gets thinner, push on it, and it gets fatter. By pushing on the bottom of the "tube", you are literally pulling the shaft out, and thus thinning its diameter. Very good!!
Perhaps you, like me, enjoy the hand feel connection with the work process by keeping with the manual jack lever. Automating the press would be great for production, but I'd lose the feel of the job.
One thing I have learned over the years is it's a restoration- they do things like that. You take on what seems to be a simple task, 2 or 3 weeks later you're still scratching your head. The only keyword to apply here is "patience".
That first "pop" was pretty satisfying, but the amount of flex on the press frame made me a little wide-eyed.
Hey great, you got it. You won. It's amazing how patience and persistence along with brute strength and awkwardness will save the parts. I have not read many of the comments, but comment suggested supporting the hub of the pulley in the press. From my experience and escapades I'd had have made junk out of the piece, broken spokes in every direction. I thought you were quite brave heating the hub even a little to get the set bolts out of the other pulley. I've had even a small amount of heat in the center break cast spokes. I have many times heated the set bolts to just get the rust in the threads to break the seize but still being careful to not twist the bolt off. Don't try it while it's red. The way that shaft spun in the hub you not only had natures weld (rust) to deal with, but also the stacking of the metal wedged it extremely tight, almost a friction/stir weld. Sometimes I've ruined the hubs by horsing the shaft out in the press. It leaves an unwanted groove in there. I'm envious of your milling /drilling machine and how you used the indicator to find center. After you had the center bored out with the big drill bit, did you consider using the cutting torch to just cut a slot in the shaft out to the hub of the pulley? Granted you'd have needed hole clear through to get slag to blow on through. As much material as you bored out, running several beads of weld inside the bore, as was already suggested, would have shrunk the shaft enough to have relieved a lot of your seize, kind of like welding on the inside of a bearing race in a wagon hub. You had me on the edge on my seat. You always had another plan. When plan A or B or C doesn't work, there is always D, E and F. Congratulations. You WON. Mike Roberts
***** Hi Keith, lots of times I will just oil it down for a couple of days, put it in a press and put some pressure on it and leave it overnight. There have been many cases of coming in the next morning and finding the shaft sitting on the floor. That burr on the shaft is why I always have an undercut next to key ways.
Since the pulley is cast and the shaft is steel once I got a hole through the center I would have split that shaft with a torch and then I think it would have come right out. Once it didn't come after the center was cut out I figured it was galled did pressing it out score the bore of the pulley any?
The correct process is this: bore it out, heat the outside, fill the center with liquid nitrogen, support it from the hub (not the rim) on the press, then press it out.
LOL Liquid nitrogen? Who has that shit sitting around? If you already have it bored, just slit the remaining piece and it will pop right out easy-peasy with some light hammer taps, no press or dewar needed.
Now we see the two meanings of "galling". Great job. Thanks for showing us about patience.
Well done Keith! You're amazing. What a thriller :-) I held my breath a couple of times.
I was squinting when you had all of that pressure on it.
Was anyone else laughing with nervous anticipation waiting for the big bang of that last series of pushes with the press?
1984sFinest i was
Great video on getting that shaft out I had guessed that it probably had spun once or twice and marred up the shaft making it harder to press out Thanks for the lesson on walking away from it and taking a moment to think about it Instead of Cussing at it
Just watched this video... 7 years after it was made! One thought that occurred to me: With the stuck shaft bored out, and pressure on the press, heat it up from the outside. Then, while still hot, spray/pour water into the hollowed out shaft. The thin-walled shaft will shrink away from the pulley hub and initiate movement.
I'd accept your theory, but only iF you exchange your 'will' to to be 'possibly might' ... and without damaging the pulley ...
If I had been in the same situation due to my lack of a big press I think I would of bored all the way through to a thin wall then threaded a hacksaw through and cut the wall through to the casting in a couple of places, then attack with a hammer. In fact if you can get on centre well enough you could bore until it is like foil and pick it out. But it was a deep hole so might need more of the shaft cutting off. Or possibly the pulley would of ended up in a million pieces :)
Severing the outer edge of the shaft is my intent in the above post about drilling off center progressively bigger until it is severed. Might have to bore the last little bit so you don't get into the pulley. There have been a few times when I have slit the outer part to get a shaft out and then welded it back up for the new shaft (the one that comes to mind was a torflex axle spindle replacement). The split whether on the shaft or hub really breaks the grip.
Hey, your way worked... :)
***** There is one factor that is important to all of the approaches though and that is perseverance. Those moments at the press where you paused and must of thought "really, are you kidding me" but then carried on even if you needed a brief hiatus, that's what it takes.
Yea, he was stumped, but he didn't give up. :)
Have you ever tried stick welding some passes on he inside of your bored hole? It will heat and then shrink and pull in . Postville Blacksmith
Good advice and a great way to remove bearing outer races from blind holes.
I have used that welding trick on a alummom motorcycle rim to get the bearing race out be fore.
I feel for you Keith and I'm glad you persevered and got that shaft out. What a *HELL* of a job! I hope I never have to do this sort of thing in my life. But if I do, I now know how to tackle it. Thanks! :)
Love all your videos Keith. No matter what the content is. You are the mr rodgers of the youtube machinist world. Your videos are relaxing to watch and educational. I thank you for all your time and hard work
***** my dad was a wood worker so I grew up in a big wood shop. We made alot of crafts, furniture and about anything you can imagine. We watched alot of bob vila, new yankee workshop. I loved those shows, still do. Your alot like bob vila and norm abram. Im up here north of philly in pa. Grew up doin wood working, worked in a machine & repair shop for 6 yrs after high school, was an industrial maintenance mechanic for 13yrs all on night shift, now im back doin what I love building custom automated machines. Manual machines, cnc, fab, electrical, programming. Im into everything. I truely love it. My goal in 2015 is to make it to your weekend get together.
Thought of 2 additional things I wanted to add. First, after breaking a pulley(s) I think I would have supported the hub in the press as it was such a problem. Second, I like the blanket idea (yes shattered pulleys fly around) and I would have put on a full face safety shield.
For some strange reason it did make my laugh at you with the pulley - mostly because I have been there as well!! :-)
Thanks for the video!
And you never swore once!
Or is it just good video editing?
Thought you were gonna lose it Keith :-)
I like think he is very well mannered and mild mannered when he does let something slip.
Hi Keith,
Imagine, you're digging in steel made way over 100 years ago, just like an archeologist.
Yep just like you I've gotten into stubborn shafts, discouraging...
Good thing you were on video and you rate those "for all audiences".
And you're so right about patience and thinking the problem over.
Cheers,
Pierre
Good job that was well stuck really enjoy seeing how you tackled the problem. :)Great idea
Try tapping on with a hammer while under pressure on the outside housing. Done this all the time at work when using a 40-ton press and it would stall. As the vibration transfers from one metal to the other 99% of the time it will pop.... Give it a try some time.
support the hub not the outer wheel
cut a slot in the bushing
heat then quench the piece with water
I agree with the facemask comment and like very much the "blast blanket" tip. I applaud your patience and perseverance on this job. A LOT of us could take a tip from your experience here. Thanks so much for sharing....Fred
Went on a ride along with a CAT mechanic once. He was called out to get a huge king pin out. The local yocals had been beating on it for 3 days with sledge hammers. We rolled up, he took a gander. walked back and setup stuff on his welding equipment. He spent a about an hour blowing out the center with carbon arc. Hit the inside of the cut out with a garden hose and proceeds to shove it out with one arm. Pin hit the ground and we were gone. I was thoroughly impressed.
Don't know if you noticed but you have ghosts coming in and out of your door.
Just the wind....
Ya, well, that's wat they all say but I don't know. It will have been the ghost of the guy that put it all together laughing at you. I bet you.
After you get it drilled, crush up dry ice and fill the cavity with it.
or pour liquid nitrogen in
kieth, your videos have improved a lot since i first started watching you :) I really enjoy that you show your successes as well as your gotcha moments... :) keep up the wonderful videos mate
Man! That was a tough one. I have a 25 ton Dake in my home shop. It works good most of the time. Once I was trying to get the wishbone bolts out of the axle I was planing to use on my model T hot rod. The axle was from a 1937 Ford truck and I am sure it was never apart before. Ultimately I had to drill it much like you did your shaft. It took me a goot 6 days (after work) to get those out. What a pain!
you had to drill a hole of 18 mm from the otherside of the shaft too so the stress is of the the belt and you still had enough space to press the shaft out
That is indeed a method more common "in the field", as a matter a fact I did that lots of times but he has all these nice machines at his disposal so why not go for a nice and tidy milling job? There are always more ways that lead to Rome.
When you had drilled out the shaft you should consider using a coping chisel to cut a slot along the inside of the bore. That will destroy the hoop strength of the remaking ring of the shaft.
Or a gas torch carefully manipulated. When it gets to the interface with the pulley, the cutting action does not tend to cross into the cast iron, in my (admittedly limited) experience.
Yup I made this comment two years ago on this video but I really like Keith .
WOW! That last shaft was ON there. Keith, I'd have kept what was left of that old shaft as a trophy: that was a hard-earned victory. Well done.
As always, great video and quite informative. Keep up the good work.
I'm more of a heat man than a machinist, a torch man forever, and in my work, and once getting advice from a superb metal worker, you can take advantage of a strange phenomenon of metal shrinkage. Most people would think to heat the bigger piece to expand it, but this guy's advice and some personal experience taking out really stuck bolts, is to heat the bolt rapidly while trying to keep the big piece cooler, and then quenching the hot bolt (don't heat it red hot) will shrink it. Metal heated and cooled will often end up smaller in some dimension. Since the bolt is restrained in the wall, it cannot initially expand, so it does in the long direction, and then it will end up ever-so-smaller the round way. This feature is very apparent when re-arching flatbed semi-trailers as you heat and quench areas of the top half of the web sections without heating the flange. You can arch I-beams to a serious degree with nothing but this shrinking! I think a very rapid heating of the inner wall of that drilled shaft and then immediate cold-water filling would start the process. Then when everything is cold, warm up the wheel hub a bit and press. It might just work!Mike
...to paraphrase Prego's Spaghetti Sauce: "it's out of there!!"
Hollow carbon arc rod hooked to the air compressor and welder,burn right thru!
Years later. Still a valuable lesson in reality and patience and perseverance. Thanks!
This is my all time favorite video on his channel ... came back to watch it again.
That shaft may have been stuck, and resisted all your attempts to whisper sweet nothings in its ear, but I guarantee you, if it was put in service in a critical application, that pulley would've come flying off of there all on its own...
LOL, looks like that museum needs to buy you an electric hydraulic press.
Did anyone else jump out of their skin at 28:27? :)
i did at 2:35
I congratulate Keith on successfully removing that last shaft. Your patience is commendable. However, there is a part of me that is sorely disappointed that I didn't get to see a pulley shatter after investing my time and emotion! Well done, as ever, Keith.
Just come across this video. Back when I worked in a machine shop and we had extreme stuck shafts like the last one we would drill out the center like you did but all the way through then take a cutting touch to the inside of the drilled hole and cut to the outside. If one was careful the torch would stop cutting when it got got to edge of the shaft. This was especially true if the pulley etc. was cast iron. This was relatively fast and saved a lot of time and frustration.
press a verance
+dan katla sharpe Groannnnnn!
If you could bottle rust you'd put loctite out of business overnight, I've had some drama with marine shafts over the years and just kept building bigger hydraulic presses.
Wow, that was stubborn! Glad you were victorious in the end!
Great Work! It's nice to have all those machine tools to bring that stuff back to life.
+5 Acres on the Bayou Indeed it is nice!
Another title for this could be ... " Why the Split Tapered Pulley is a Great Invention". Those flat belt pulleys have so much surface area on the shaft, danger! Restoration creates challenges that modernization would avoid (by replacing ALL the rotating parts). Maintaining our manufacturing history makes it worthwhile if you stay safe, but don't forget you are the one to decide when any given part becomes better to scrap, or modify than restore. We need YOU thanks for your awesome work!
Hello Keith
Enjoyed and thanks for the blanket tip! When I saw it my first thought was "DUH"... Simple/smart! And safe!
ATB
Chuck
Love your work mate.
I trained as a diesel mechanic but worked as a machinist for my dad fixing rusted on crap on commercial fishing boats for a few years.
I often wish that we had the time to ponder on a job for more than a few minutes if the fish were running 😎
Keep up the good work mate👍
Keith - thanks for your video series. I was searching for how to adjust Bridgeport milling machines gibs and found your video. Good job removing the shaft, that was a challenge (to understate LOL).
Hi Keith, I'm with Bruce, 3000 miles away and thinking that it was being supported on the rim, especially when you turned it into a hospital case with the blanket. But I was with you when it started to move, what a relief that must have been. Well done. Turned out to be a riveting video, all in all. Much enjoyed. Regards.
Your patient approach is inspiration. True ZEN!
Outstanding job, Keith. I like how you kept at it and never gave up. Keep up the good work. Best regards, RS
its good you have it out, my thoughts was the shaft and pulley hub had a mild tapper, good work I enjoyed your patients,
I had a little concern about the rim and spokes on the press table as well with all the pressure, ...gold star
thanks for all the info. I am working to restore a 10" Sheldon Lathe (E drive). The info you have on the net has been invaluable. I am now trying to get the j-type furnas drum switch wired to a new motor. Thank you for the info you have made available across the various sites.
hi keith
i couldn't stop watching , i was on the edge of my seat , with that last shaft , great advice about going away and sleeping on it , i always end up rushing things in the garage and lose my head, end up replacing bits i didn't need too . very wise , great video very interesting thanks jason
Good job , lotsa times you don’t have days or weeks to figure stuff out . We were always under a deadline in all the mines I worked in as a millwright.
I love a story with a happy ending like this. Good job!