Exactly, why spend $25 if your going to change it at 5k , I'm not so sure about changing the Fram extra at 10k though it's only $6.I replaced the oil but left the filter on.I think I would with the ultra, leave it on a year but change oil at 5k
To a degree fram and mobil 1 have a bpv set at 5-10 psi my car requires an oil filter with a bpv set at 27 psi any bpv psi lower than that will cause it to run continuously in bypass mode not good. I do agree with you regarding regular maintenance is tye key
I use Fram ultra synthetic filters and mobil 1 oil in all of my vehicles. 3 of the 4 cars I have are all over 200k miles and never a problem with any of them. Never an oil leak, never an oil related problem of any kind and 1 of them is nearing 290k miles.
My neighbor has a bone stock '76 Ford F250 with the 400 in it. Odometer has rolled over twice. Doesn't burn a drop of oil, and he keeps it because it's the most dependable vehicle he's ever owned. The secret to why it's still doing what it's doing..... 3,000 miles it gets a new air filter, oil filter & oil change.
Interestingly enough, I just changed the oil in my 3.5 EB. Used mobile 1 5-30 as usual, with a Fram ultra synthetic filter. Here’s the key. I always change my oil every 3-4000 miles. Oil and filters are cheap compared to engine repair or replacement. Good video Boss!! Keep it up. We love it!!
To a degree. I definitely won't shame or discourage early oil changes at all. But let's say in a run of 400k miles, assuming someone keeps their vehicle for that long from vehicle birth, a change interval of 3500 miles will come to well over $4000 for a DIY and household name synthetic and quality filter. Again, all is well there as I'm a fool for this type stuff too. But for color and contrast there's been a couple vehicles on yt I've followed that made it to a million miles and both were have dealership oil maintenance done at dash clock % interval. A third vehicle is a current channel on TH-cam of a guy with an '03 car, I won't mention car brand but he changes his oil @ 15k miles with mobil 1 extended performance and the car currently has 930k miles on the original unopened engine. Last week it has developed an exhaust valve problem that will likely end its stellar run. That guy has spent around $2400-$2500 on oil changes. Would it had gone 930k- one million miles with 3500 mile change intervals, absolutely. But he would have spent 2x what a new engine costs by time he got there. Just food for thought, I'm not criticizing at all. Obviously not every engine will go those crazy miles, but it's a balance everyone can juggle between excessive oil changes and enough oil changes to get the engine to outlive a lot of other really expensive vehicle componentry. To cap off, I've never brought myself to go past 9k on a change, which is where the dash called for it. I used that one time run as reference to know 30% is roughly 6k miles and where I change it now. Naturally aspirated, responsibly driven 4cyl coupe that rarely sees 4k rpm. I used mobil 1 for prob 15-16 yrs but have since moved to other brands. I think oil brand on a properly maintained engine is nearly moot in this day & age. My current is pennzoil ultra but I'm not hesitant on any of them.
So I appreciate and totally get the frustration with Mobile 1. I started going with Mobile 1 extended performance oil because I did my own research into the standards and certification. From what I can tell, a ton of oils aren't actually 100% synthetics. I used to be an Amsoil fanboy, but realized everything I knew about their products was just hype, and bro science. Even though I buy the 20k mile, oil and filter. I change my oil at 5k or sooner.
@@FordBossMe did you ever mention your preference on actual oil brands or its safe to say it's all the exact same thing? I asked this question in 1993 and still haven't truly had a definite answer
I believe that the Mobil-1 filter just had its ass handed to it. These Fram Ultra filters are excellent. I have one on my Subaru Outback right now, it has 1,000 miles on it and the oil is looking very clean.
Mobil 1 used to marked a full PAO synthetic, did they stop? I now use Pensoil Ultra Plat in the Raptor and Shell 15-40 in the Gold Wing (can't use oil with significant moly). Where did ya get the cutter tool?
The Fram Ultra Synthetic is rated at 99% efficiency at 20 microns and the Mobil 1 Extended Performance is rated 99% at 25 microns. So I use the Fram because it's rated to catch smaller particles as well as the Mobil 1 does with larger ones.
I wouldn't feel bad running either of these on my engine, but, given the choice, Fram for the win. (even if they were the same price) I wouldn't go 20,000 miles between changes, regardless of oil or filter.
Back in the late 80's my Dad had a Fram orange can explode while driving. Fram did give him a check for another engine with similar mileage. I've heard that Fram has improved their pleat gluing methods as to not have any holes in the filters now (which did happen on rare instances from my understanding). I am not a fan of the glued fiber end caps BUT, they do work alright and meet the price point of the filter. I normally run Wix filters but I have run Fram orange can filters when I have had to have had my oil changed at a garage (I have health issues that sometimes interfere with my ability to DIY). I personally wouldn't run a Fram orange can past 4-5K miles personally. That said Fram does make some really decent filters such as the gold can filters.
Do not run the orange can Frams as they are junk. These gold can Ultras are in a whole different universe and share nothing with the orange and are among the best on the market.
The one time I used a mobile one filter, I was disappointed in its performance and quality. I have always used Fram filters in my vehicles and have always been pleased with their products and their performance. No reason to spend so much money on a filter that will be changed every 5k miles anyways. Nice review and greatly appreciated. Keep up the great content.
Back in the 1980s when mobil.1 was a pao ester based oil it was great stuff. Now though supertech synethic will do the job just fine and save a few bucks.
I would continue using whatever you feel comfortable using the channels not to make people go one way or another it's just so people what the truth is and debunk some of the bulshit Keep using your Mopar filter and keep using a Purolator or Wix filter for your G20
The new Fram Titanium's are actually really good. I think Mobil 1 has so many fanboys because for a long time they had the best filters for general use. I I think thats changed alot in the past 10 years, pretty much every filter you get with synthetic oil bundles at parts stores which is what most people do, are just fine. I kinda throw whatever my local parts store has on a bundle special on. Its either Mobil 1, Carquest Blue or Fram Titanium. All of them are fine by me. I don't push oil changes.
Mobil 1 was first on the block with synthetic back when I started driving in 81. I switched to Mobil 1 for my 1982 toyota Supra. from that point on, I was a Mobil 1 fanboy! I switched to Amsoil, Royal Purple, Redline and other synthetics since then. Currently run Amsoil (signature) in my Tundra, 4Runner and 4-stroke dirt bikes. Still run yamalube TWC 2 stroke in my boat. I use Fram Ultra & Purolator Boss filters in everything now.
Thanks for this video. Many of us don't know the difference in oil filter technologies. We think we are paying for a premium product and getting a premium product, when in actuality, we're getting ripped off. What synthetic oils do you recommend?
Friend, thank you for standing up for Fram. Fram is my brand of filters (Oil, Air, and Cabin Air); I side with you, my Oil Filter happens to be a Fram Ultra Synthetic XG9837, my Air Filter is a Fram CA9492, and my Cabin Air Filter is a Fram CF8804A. I can say that Fram is one of the best, as well as the pioneer company that invented the oil filter in 1934. I find people no longer appreciate their cars, they just get the cheapest products to get them by; because they figure they'll scrap their cars someday, little do they realize that the car will last longer if they invest in quality products.
Many sources say that Ernest Sweetland and George Greenhalgh invented the oil filter in 1923. They called their invention the "Purolator". www.pureoil.com/es/purolator-structure-old/import/history/ www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/28436/story-automotive-filters-engines en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oil_filter I am fairly sure you mean invented the replaceable cartridge filter for vehicles. I agree with the rest of your post especially the part about "they just get the cheapest products to get them by".
@@LionWithTheLamb Wisely said, friend. You got me on that one, my mistake on the first oil filter; however, I believe we can agree that Fram invented the first replaceable cartridge oil filter in 1934. In any case, I thank you for your support. 😀
I'm a Mobil 1 fan boy you SOB and in the last 3 days all you've done is make me pay triple for a Ford Racing filter on my next oil change! 😅 thanks bro🤣... Great vids! Keep it up.
Unacceptable! I will not be happy until my wallet is empty! Jokes aside thanks for making content that actually helps the regular guy. You're doing God's work.
We just started getting a new filter at my work and I'd love to see you open it up. It's the microgaurd select. Made by wix. The stores don't seem to stock it yet but they will soon. You can order it though
I’ve bought & used both before. I prefer the Fram ultra synthetic over the mobil one. The only reason I bought the mobil one was because the gold fram was out of stock when It was time to change my oil again. The lower price of the fram and the easy grip was an added bonus. Keep up the good work 👍🏻
Thanks for doing this , now I can switch filters with more confidence that I'm doing the right thing for my truck. I change my oil every 4000 miles , filter as well and always have since I bought this truck , a 2004 F350 Super Duty XLT 5.4 gas with 160,000 now on her . She runs great but now I question my oil. I switched to Mobil 1 higher mileage synthetic 5/20 and wonder what you reccommend for it ? I use 1quart of Lucas oil treatment with 5 quarts oil and it has been good so far . But of course would like to save some $ on oil changes , but still not compromise a good oil change either. Thanks again Boss!
Thanks for this. Walmart was out of the Mobil1 filters for a week so I hesitantly bought the Fram XG instead. After watching this, I'm glad I did. Thanks!
Just did 3000m oil change. 2015 mazda 3 2.5 I-4 58,000m. Mobil 1, dark oil was expecting it to be lighter. Mobil1 filter hand tight, the o-ring had a little distortion in it and that's just snugged with 1/4 hand tight. Yes I lubed the o-ring liberally prior to install. Installed the Fram Ultra Synthetic filter and Valvoline advanced full synthetic. You make me want to take better care of my vehicle. Thanks for your uploads.
Can someone pleaseeeeee tell me, what exactly do you notice so different about using the fram vs the Mobil filter? A ton of you are saying you like it better, or feels better, or notice a difference… please explain… is it just a placebo effect?? Oil on the brain? Or something tangible data?
The Fram Is synthetic - the mobil isn't The Fram has a better filtering efficiency the mobil doesn't The Fram is like 7$ on a Amazon subscription the mobil is 5 - 7$ more It's common sense
@@FordBossMe of course I understand that and the logic behind it… 100% makes sense. Just asking the people with comments like “feel it running better”, or noticed a difference… with either or.
Haha! I LOVE it!! I only use the fram ultra synthetic filter on my jeep, i also bought one for the partners ram, i tried explaining to him how much better the fram is than the mobile one or wix XP, i put the fram on his truck when i changed the oil.
But if you're using Fram back in the day You would have had no issues It was until all these other companies were hounding and lowering their prices where fram had to make a move to be competitive.
@@jesusthug how many oil pumps have you lost to Fram? All models or just a specific model? I'm the boshe and mobile guy too because I also just been using it since I was 18 hard to get new habits
Only two complaints about those fram synthetic filters is the metal on the filter body is stupid thin, and it's the only filter I've ever had where the O-ring actually stuck on the engine block. From a purely filtration perspective, I think they're damn good.
I mean at the end of the day let's all be honest it comes down to preference it's not a really about quality so much because they all have s*** filters that the low end they all have really good filters at their high-end
@@FordBossMe I'm not crapping on them. I've got a cabinet full of their version of the FL-500s. I'll keep running them. My complaint about the thin nature of the metal is really only a concern whenever I'm changing them out. I feel like my filter plyers will puncture them. Good filters. I'm not disagreeing. Generally if you keep your OCI below 5k, any filter is going to work just fine, and you'll never see any oil issues with the motor.
@@MikeMcCasland27 Fram tests their oil filters to 300 psi. The o-ring blows out well before the canister is anywhere close to bursting. m.th-cam.com/video/QnC0i5NLvjY/w-d-xo.html
👍 Been putting off doing this test myself Thanks! Guess I won't be using the Mobil 1 filter anymore. Can you cut a K&N filter apart next plz and thanks?
All he's saying is, get the cheapest filter, and change your oil every 3-5k miles and it wont matter what filter you use. Unless you start doing what he's doing with his Dodge and cleaning your engine, it will never fill up with crap and gunk in that short time. Mobil 1 is just expensive to be expensive, there is no reason to be, especially when he tore apart a Motorcraft one and it was a simple paper filter as well, just like the Mobil 1 and its cheaper. Get what ever you want, but really the cheap stuff WILL work just fine, don't be swayed by what some commenters say on how bad something is. That's all he's really trying to get across to people, stop being sheep and follow yourself.
I hate to sound like a fanboy but man. The Fram ultra's are absolutely top dog. They knocked it out of the park. I still have yet to find a filter that holds a bar to how that thing is built!!!
@@FordBossMe Well, not exactly. The best filter is the one that produces the best outcome when the oil is sent out for analysis with a specific oil and on a specific vehicle. Could be either one or a plethora of others regardless of cost
@@FordBossMe thank you for replying. That’s what I’ve been using for my 2015 Lexus GS350 and with Mobil 1 extended performance. Switching to Pennzoil Ultra Platinum on next oil change.
Ngl I keep getting mixed info - one year it’s K&N are the best, then Mobil 1, then this year I’m now learning about Amsoil. Have the Mobil 1’s gotten better?
I have been using the Ultra SYN XG2's. I found a deal on ebay for $5/a piece($30/ for 6). I noticed the grit used for the grip material, was in the box and on the flange/threads. I contacted Fram. They sent me replacements.
That’s the one thing I don’t like about Fram. They don’t seal the open end to prevent contaminants from getting in. All that dust instantly gets shot into the engine upon startup. 😤
I run them Fram Ultra filters for 10 years. In 500+HP engines... I never seen one fail...I still would use a Ford if they made them for all vehicles. As I run them in my Fords...
Solid video and I loved it! Not a fanboy, but I've been running Mobil 1 Extended Performance oil (5 quart jug cheap at Walmart) for ages on all my cars. Mobil 1 EP I believe is a full synthetic and my 210k '08 TL Type-S engine still looks awesome inside.
@@ajmedeiros77 Tell the rich guy who just picked up his new 911 Turbo S that he should use Amsoil instead of the required Mobil 1. The proof is in the pudding. 100% synthetic or not, Mobil 1 is just the best. I've run it since the 90's. All my vehicles were traded or sold still idling smooth and quiet, pulling hard. No leaks. No oil consumption. Better MPGs than when new. And I live in the very hot, humid Gulf South. Drive them all hard too. Mobil 1 all day, every day. I wish they made a 2 stroke outboard oil cause it would be in my Optimax for sure.
Been running Mobil1 on multiple vehicles and never had any oil related issues in two decades. May not be the best of the best but its the brand that I trust.
In your opinion what is the best oil and oil filter combination for passenger vehicles? Too many people go by "good enough" but I like to know what's the best from people who've done the research and not just fall for catchy advertising .
I called Mobil today and was told Mobile 1 filters are now made by Purolator. I looked at new Mobile 1 M212-A filter in Walmart, it was much different from the old ones I have purchased in the past.
I used to use the Mobil 1 Filters with the Black and Gold packaging and those worked pretty good. But now, On my Ram 1500 the Gasket leaks with the newer Green/Gray/Black packaged Mobil 1 filters with the 'A' suffix. I tried these 3 times before I gave up. I'd alternate between the Napa Gold and Black/Gold Mobil 1 filters, but now I alternate between the Napa Gold and Royal Purple. I had a 97 Camry V6 and sometimes I'd have to take the Camry to Jiffy Lube which uses the yellow Pennzoil filters. At 3k miles the oil is usually pretty dark. Sometimes Jiffy Lube would use an AC Delco filter and the oil was never as dark at 3k miles.
The Ultra was my goto filter, too bad shortly after this was filmed Fram decided to bait-and-switch long term Fram Ultra/ExtendedGaurd/"Fram X2" users by switching from dual layer microglass media with a wire backing to a shitty cellulose layer with a layer of microglass over the top of it with no reinforcement screen.
@@devonross5825 supposed to help with media warpage and that can decrease the holding capacity and reduce flow. Helps keep the pleats septated and structured while the core prevents total collapse.
As a result of plugged up pleats and suction the material can collapse on itself completely blocking flow in the affected pleats, having the reinforced mesh helps to prevent that.
Maybe I just had a one time bad experience but I bought a mobile 1 filter with a rebate a few years ago and I’ve changed oil for many years I put this filter on and first thing I noticed was it leaked pretty badly saw a puddle in my driveway nothing pissing out when driving. My car also had a horrible start up rattle I changed the oil the next day and filter and went back to what I usually use (motor craft) and the leak and start up rattle went away so maybe I just got a defective one. Also is that a 10th mountain tattoo?
"Synthetic" media is basically a cloth, so it needs a backer. Paper filters are more rigid so they don't need the mesh backer. Basically both types of filters are barrier type filters. They are a barrier with holes in it that block particles over a certain size from getting through... They do the same thing the same way. The better filter basically has the most surface area to clog... That's pretty much it. Years ago Hastings made a depth filter. Basocally they stuffed a filter with material and as the oil pushed it's way through the dirt got trapped in the sponge like filter. There was supposed to be more media to trap the dirt in depth, kind of like a sponge soaks up dirt rather than like a barrier filter like a screen that keeps flies out of your house. I drank the Kool-Aid and tried the Hastings filters twice and coincidently both times I wound up with my engine in pieces on the driveway for issues that might have been oil related. And yes... it might have been something else, but I wasn't going to try the depth filter again. Likewise a friend blew two engines on Mobil 1... one was a seized wrist pin and I forget the other failure. But he'll never use Mobil 1 again. So, I've got two Gen 1 Saturns with well over 200,000 miles running on Mobil 1 and neither even has a working odometer so at best I'm guessing on the oil changes, which is why I use 20,000 mile oil... and for me the Mobil 1 works fine. I ran the Castrol Syntec for several years, but without an odometer, I just feel safer with 20,000 mile oil, so at least I can convince myself that I'm doing oil changes within the recommended intervals. What really hurts is that I've only filled my car twice with gas since the pandemic started and have over a half tank left and it's almost due for another oil change, for the one year interval. On a Crown Vic Police Interceptor... that's less than 300 miles. On the up side after the pandemic, I'll likely have a lot of rust to fix.
@peter Health issues. age and some expensive auto repairs I can't do right now get in the way of me doing too much driving... not to mention gas insane gas prices kind of a strange situation 5 cars and I almost never drive. Still never give up the hope that tomorrow things will be better and I'll have somewhere to go.
I've used every type of filter made and never had any problems with any of them.. I've used them on Atvs, outboards, lawn mowers, pickup trucks, cars, log trucks, semis, skidders, tractors, hydraulic pumps ect ect!! Never seen a one go bad..
@@FordBossMe I used Mobil 1 oil and filters in my '97 K1500 GMC, with a 305 in it. Wore it out; at the very least, I probably should have swapped out the filter at 2,500, and topped off the oil. I have DECADES of experience with oil changes, and even back then, I should have stuck to the 3,000 mile change intervals. Lesson learned! My mom's '87 Lincoln Town Car got 2,000 mile oil changes; Michigan vehicle, and the oil pan on its 302 rusted, to the point it started weeping oil. When a new pan was installed on the engine, no, I mean NO "gunk" of any type was IN the old pan--it looked brand new inside... lol
@@FordBossMe For sure. M1 makes good stuff but a lot of what you pay for is their marketing budget. Solid product but you can find higher quality oil and oil filters at half the cost. Supertech makes a very solid oil and filter at a fraction of the cost. Check out Project Farms video on the matter.
@@HaloDaycare project farm proves that wix was the winning filter including the pressure testing I'm seriously considering switching to wix but I got lazy and didn't have a accurate part number for the wix I needed and went with what I knew already
I was just watching a video on this same thing last night. Ive been using fram filters for a long time..... never had a problem with them. Little did i know, they are actually decent filters.
I would probably say the fram because of how much it filters so if you had two of the same dirty engines the frame would probably filter out the dirt faster and go into bypass sooner
@@FordBossMe true the fram ultra has one of the best filtration numbers but the ultra is a 2 ply full syn media so it should have more holding capacity for contaminants. I believe they talk about holding capacity on the website but yes once they both open they'll both bypass but I believe fram talks about the full syn glass fiber media being able to hold dirt in much better without letting it go while in bypass.
The bypass opens every time the engine is started cold. The oil doesn't get filtered until it warms up and gets thin enough to get thru the filter media.
I like to support the "underdogs" or the ones that are not as popular. That is why I have been using Quaker State oil. Really impressed with the Fram filter. Thanks for helping me get rid of the "fram is garbage" mentality
Recently bought for oil change Fram shown in your video ,from Walmart there wasn't a a gasket . Returned it checked others of the same and more of them without gaskets also. To me this speaks volumes!
Just curious does Fram sponsor your channel? I have nothing against Fram use to use them but always considered them to be a cheap filter but used them nonetheless. But I have a 08 F150 and I just run the Motorcraft filter like came on it. I do run Mobil 1 high mileage. Is it not a good oil ? I don't know I'm just a weekend DIY er trying to save some money. 😎👍👋🤙
Fram doesn't sponsor my channel but I'm tired of people's b******* about friend being the worst product on the market they all have bad products and they all have good products I don't have any sponsors on this channel me myself and I and the work that I do that's it
There's another video that loaded at the same time this one did I have two more Purolator is coming but I already reviewed a basic Purolator on the other video. Just now loaded
this filter is made by Purolator, look at the base plate with those oval holes and a with the typical Purolator bypass valve, with a flat spring, it is similar to a Purolator pure one.
I use the Fram TG16 premium filters on my Jeep. I change them every 5K miles with Semi Synthetic High Milage Oil(5W-30) by Mag1 even though it's rated for 15K. It's what I do to keep my Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4.7L running smoothly with over 222K miles
Mobil 1 filters are decent, but pricy. $20 cdn plus 11% tax. Bought only when on sale. I found out ford filters at the dealer were half the price. So, i buy them now. FL500s are what the 2015 Taurus uses.
@@MrWhatis okay so the one thing I try to do is I try to be pretty respectful to people until they start getting pretty ignorant and then I have to turn it up a little bit before I get rid of them because they're just clowns so what I'm asking you to do is not be that person here because I won't tolerate it If you're not willing to go do the research and you're not willing to look things up then you shouldn't be willing to comment on this page
@@MrWhatis doing reviews of oil and filters does a small part of this channel it's not even the main purpose of this channel If you look through my videos you'll see me talking about engines and repairs things of this nature on brand new vehicles that nobody else on the internet talks about because I really try to step out of the way and help people into the right thing to make sure they're taken care of..... now that's what this channel is about Imagine a guy like me has his own independent shop plus is a Master Mechanic for the dealership giving his time to people all over the world trying to help them with their problems and somebody like you comes along and tries to be a thorn in their side all because of an oil filter Imagine somebody like me with my experience doing what I do every single day relentlessly generously giving up my time and you Joe Schmo comes along and tells me how to do my job or what is what and I do it every single day literally from the time I get off until the time I go to bed and then when I go to bed I'm dreaming about the s*** that I'm doing because I do is so much Mr Bob Ray I think I deserve a little bit more respect than what you're giving me right now and you're just trying to be a troll and I like to see a respectful sincere at least somewhat compassionate relationship aside from you and not this
@@FordBossMe I just notice you do have problem cutting it open, and on 3.03 of your video and say the filter is paper but on their web site moble 1 caims it is a synethethic blend. should i believe you or the moble 1 ?
Man, thanks so much for doing this. I am sorry you you get the hate mail, damn man you don’t deserve it. You spend your own money and buy these out out of your own pocket just to take them to bits. I am impressed by the quality of the off the shelf motor craft filters compared to the rest of the pack and am really surprised at the 9 buck fram. Not bad. Thanks for taking the time to show this and keep on truckin’. Cheers.
Anyone who checks their oil frequently and changes air and oil filetrs on schedule will be way ahead of the game. So many comments and here is one more about filter media. While you can make statements about the construction materials used in the various filters when eyeballing them, you can't look at filter media and know anything about how it performs. For that you need very sophisticated light microscopy, nitrogen and mercury porosimetry instruments and a host of various calibrated fluorescent beads to perform filter challenge testing with various diameter beads. Designing and engineering various filter media is a multibillion dollar industry and expanded cellulosic filter media is still widely used in industry for filtering oil. All engine oil filters use a depth style media. That means they trap particles throughout the depth of the media. Where the particle gets trapped is pretty random but this style of media has a much greater capacity for holding particulate matter and is much lower to clog under normal use. And let's not forget that almost all filter media is rated for trapping spherical particles while real world particles can be fine needles or shreds of metal shavings. And while you can specify the rate of particle entrapment in a single pass, the oil is recycled continuously so particles have many chances of being trapped. Could it be that engine designers do not know about specific oil design criteria and allow the specialists at oil lubricating labs to make those design decisions for them? How about filter media engineering? The real question is what is the source of the filter media used in these different engine oil filters and how quickly do they load up and how efficient are they at trapping particles at any given size range. A really fine filter media may clog too quickly vs another one that has a much greater capacity for larger particles that create much greater engine wear. That is an engineering tradeoff and requires extensive engineering expertise to balance the variables efficiently. Imagine an elaborate dry sump oil filtration system that weighs more and costs more than the entire production engine? Not so useful as a daily driver. But your oil would stay clean forever or until it broke down chemically. You get some of that engineering on a long haul turbodiesel engine for trucking but it would not fit under the hood of your passenger car. Driving conditions and frequent oil filter changes plus air filter changes can go a long way towards making the case for using a lower cost filter and changing it out more frequently. The industry is tending towards the opposite with a longer period between oil changes and increased service intervals. That makes sense when dealer service charges are ever increasing but not as much for the do it yourself crowd who enjoys the maintenance of their vehicles. All food for thought. Here is my idea for a real world oil filter test. Weigh your oil filter when new, dry and never installed. Install same oil filter at oil change. Run filter for rated mileage. Remove filter and now flush with solvents until absolutely all oil is removed. Blow dry slowly with compressed air until absolutely dry. Weigh and compare weight to measure amount of dirt trapped inside filer. Repeat with other brands and compare weight changes. Produce TH-cam video and get rich and famous. I am not this patient. Geek out on ISO 4548-12:2017 Methods of test for full-flow lubricating oil filters for internal combustion engines - Part 12: Filtration efficiency using particle counting and contaminant retention capacity This standard was last reviewed and confirmed in 2022. Therefore this version remains current. Abstract ISO 4548-12:2017 specifies a multi-pass filtration test with continuous contaminant injection and using the online particle counting method for evaluating the performance of full-flow lubricating oil filters for internal combustion engines. The scope of this document is limited to steady state conditions and does not address fluctuations in the flow rate. The test procedure determines the contaminant capacity of a filter, its particulate removal characteristics and differential pressure. This test is intended for application to filter elements with an efficiency of less than 99 % at particle size greater than 10 μm.
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Honestly if you maintain your vehicle like you’re suppose to, they’re all fine.
Exactly, why spend $25 if your going to change it at 5k , I'm not so sure about changing the Fram extra at 10k though it's only $6.I replaced the oil but left the filter on.I think I would with the ultra, leave it on a year but change oil at 5k
To a degree fram and mobil 1 have a bpv set at 5-10 psi my car requires an oil filter with a bpv set at 27 psi any bpv psi lower than that will cause it to run continuously in bypass mode not good. I do agree with you regarding regular maintenance is tye key
@@jonmo2694so you can go longer without changing duh
This Fram actually filters 50% better, 99% at 20 microns, while the other one is rated 99% at 30 microns!
I use Fram ultra synthetic filters and mobil 1 oil in all of my vehicles. 3 of the 4 cars I have are all over 200k miles and never a problem with any of them. Never an oil leak, never an oil related problem of any kind and 1 of them is nearing 290k miles.
“Put that in your pipe and smoke it “!
Tell em 😂
talk to em
The Fram looked about as good as the amsoil! Dude you’re paying out a fortune in oil filters to destroy!
Who is paying for the filters.?
@@vincentgotter4669 Shoot I guess the guy doing the video, I don’t know!
@@vincentgotter4669
He's paying for the filters.
When he was discussing the Napa Platinum, he said it cost him $18 from his local NAPA store.
My neighbor has a bone stock '76 Ford F250 with the 400 in it. Odometer has rolled over twice. Doesn't burn a drop of oil, and he keeps it because it's the most dependable vehicle he's ever owned. The secret to why it's still doing what it's doing..... 3,000 miles it gets a new air filter, oil filter & oil change.
Air filter is a little over kill but I see 10000 for it and the rest sounds right
@@freedomisntfree_44 I asked him the same, and he told me it was easier for him to do it with the oil, just so he doesn't forget.
@@BareRoseGarage makes sense, just get it all while under there
@@freedomisntfree_44actually, if a little research is done, the air filter is the most important filter on an engine.
Interestingly enough, I just changed the oil in my 3.5 EB. Used mobile 1 5-30 as usual, with a Fram ultra synthetic filter. Here’s the key. I always change my oil every 3-4000 miles. Oil and filters are cheap compared to engine repair or replacement. Good video Boss!! Keep it up. We love it!!
👍🏾🇺🇸
To a degree. I definitely won't shame or discourage early oil changes at all. But let's say in a run of 400k miles, assuming someone keeps their vehicle for that long from vehicle birth, a change interval of 3500 miles will come to well over $4000 for a DIY and household name synthetic and quality filter.
Again, all is well there as I'm a fool for this type stuff too. But for color and contrast there's been a couple vehicles on yt I've followed that made it to a million miles and both were have dealership oil maintenance done at dash clock % interval.
A third vehicle is a current channel on TH-cam of a guy with an '03 car, I won't mention car brand but he changes his oil @ 15k miles with mobil 1 extended performance and the car currently has 930k miles on the original unopened engine. Last week it has developed an exhaust valve problem that will likely end its stellar run. That guy has spent around $2400-$2500 on oil changes. Would it had gone 930k- one million miles with 3500 mile change intervals, absolutely. But he would have spent 2x what a new engine costs by time he got there. Just food for thought, I'm not criticizing at all.
Obviously not every engine will go those crazy miles, but it's a balance everyone can juggle between excessive oil changes and enough oil changes to get the engine to outlive a lot of other really expensive vehicle componentry.
To cap off, I've never brought myself to go past 9k on a change, which is where the dash called for it. I used that one time run as reference to know 30% is roughly 6k miles and where I change it now. Naturally aspirated, responsibly driven 4cyl coupe that rarely sees 4k rpm. I used mobil 1 for prob 15-16 yrs but have since moved to other brands. I think oil brand on a properly maintained engine is nearly moot in this day & age. My current is pennzoil ultra but I'm not hesitant on any of them.
Question, if the oil pressure runs 45psi and the by pass velvet opens at 15. then the oil is not being filter
So I appreciate and totally get the frustration with Mobile 1. I started going with Mobile 1 extended performance oil because I did my own research into the standards and certification. From what I can tell, a ton of oils aren't actually 100% synthetics. I used to be an Amsoil fanboy, but realized everything I knew about their products was just hype, and bro science.
Even though I buy the 20k mile, oil and filter. I change my oil at 5k or sooner.
I just did the same thing in the Dodge I put the $80 Amsoil kit
@@FordBossMe did you ever mention your preference on actual oil brands or its safe to say it's all the exact same thing? I asked this question in 1993 and still haven't truly had a definite answer
Try Pennzoil.
@@hjer731 I prefer Pennzoil also
I really hope you’re getting solid compensation my dude. You put out so much good content
Quick simple review without a great deal of time wasted.
Two thumbs up.
I believe that the Mobil-1 filter just had its ass handed to it. These Fram Ultra filters are excellent. I have one on my Subaru Outback right now, it has 1,000 miles on it and the oil is looking very clean.
1,000? That's crazy 😁
Fram discontinued the FPS series, but relaunched it as the Ultra series. It rocks like a landslide.
Would have been interesting to lay the media out flat and measure the square inches. Looked like more pleats on the Mobil filter.
You must be a "Mobil 1 Fan Boy" with those rational observational skills
I think that most of these filters will suffice if you are changing the oil every 3,000 to 5000 miles.
With 5w 30 on my hand I appreciate the textured grip personally...
I was wondering if it can be easier to overtighten the textured grip flters
Mobil 1 used to marked a full PAO synthetic, did they stop? I now use Pensoil Ultra Plat in the Raptor and Shell 15-40 in the Gold Wing (can't use oil with significant moly). Where did ya get the cutter tool?
Amazon
They have a lot of different types of Cutters I just put in oil filter tool cutter and it popped up
@@FordBossMe Thanks. My big pipe cutter makes moremess than you got.
Just used a fram ultra synthetic filter with some fully synthetic oil change it ever 6k miles on my 5.7 hemi. How’s that sound to you?
So what is the number one filter so far? I don’t care what brand it is I just want the best I can get.
Agree…….like to know myself 💪
The Fram Ultra Synthetic is rated at 99% efficiency at 20 microns and the Mobil 1 Extended Performance is rated 99% at 25 microns. So I use the Fram because it's rated to catch smaller particles as well as the Mobil 1 does with larger ones.
I use the Fram as well
Mann filters are good too
And Hengst.
I wouldn't feel bad running either of these on my engine, but, given the choice, Fram for the win. (even if they were the same price) I wouldn't go 20,000 miles between changes, regardless of oil or filter.
Back in the late 80's my Dad had a Fram orange can explode while driving. Fram did give him a check for another engine with similar mileage. I've heard that Fram has improved their pleat gluing methods as to not have any holes in the filters now (which did happen on rare instances from my understanding). I am not a fan of the glued fiber end caps BUT, they do work alright and meet the price point of the filter. I normally run Wix filters but I have run Fram orange can filters when I have had to have had my oil changed at a garage (I have health issues that sometimes interfere with my ability to DIY). I personally wouldn't run a Fram orange can past 4-5K miles personally. That said Fram does make some really decent filters such as the gold can filters.
Do not run the orange can Frams as they are junk. These gold can Ultras are in a whole different universe and share nothing with the orange and are among the best on the market.
The one time I used a mobile one filter, I was disappointed in its performance and quality. I have always used Fram filters in my vehicles and have always been pleased with their products and their performance. No reason to spend so much money on a filter that will be changed every 5k miles anyways. Nice review and greatly appreciated. Keep up the great content.
The sole reason to buy a premium quality filter(and oil) is so you can go longer than 5k between oil changes.
@@rodsmolter5046 well, it didn't act like a premium product for the price paid. To each their own.
Cardboard Fan Boy!
@@romeo1550bro did fram better than mobil1 in performance?
Back in the 1980s when mobil.1 was a pao ester based oil it was great stuff. Now though supertech synethic will do the job just fine and save a few bucks.
Dang man, the ONE oil change I try a mobil1 filter, and then you make this video. Backnto the fram extra/ultra guards 😂
Been at this game for decades ... I only use Bosch, Wix (NAPA) and Baldwin oil filters. Consistent, quality construction.
OK............ Point taken
I have a 95 Chevrolet G20 with a 350 and a 2017 Ram 3500 with a Cummins. What filters would you use?
I would continue using whatever you feel comfortable using the channels not to make people go one way or another it's just so people what the truth is and debunk some of the bulshit
Keep using your Mopar filter and keep using a Purolator or Wix filter for your G20
The new Fram Titanium's are actually really good. I think Mobil 1 has so many fanboys because for a long time they had the best filters for general use. I I think thats changed alot in the past 10 years, pretty much every filter you get with synthetic oil bundles at parts stores which is what most people do, are just fine. I kinda throw whatever my local parts store has on a bundle special on. Its either Mobil 1, Carquest Blue or Fram Titanium. All of them are fine by me. I don't push oil changes.
Mobil 1 was first on the block with synthetic back when I started driving in 81. I switched to Mobil 1 for my 1982 toyota Supra. from that point on, I was a Mobil 1 fanboy! I switched to Amsoil, Royal Purple, Redline and other synthetics since then. Currently run Amsoil (signature) in my Tundra, 4Runner and 4-stroke dirt bikes. Still run yamalube TWC 2 stroke in my boat. I use Fram Ultra & Purolator Boss filters in everything now.
Thanks for this video. Many of us don't know the difference in oil filter technologies. We think we are paying for a premium product and getting a premium product, when in actuality, we're getting ripped off. What synthetic oils do you recommend?
Pennzoil ultra platinum, platinum or platinum high mileage
Friend, thank you for standing up for Fram. Fram is my brand of filters (Oil, Air, and Cabin Air); I side with you, my Oil Filter happens to be a Fram Ultra Synthetic XG9837, my Air Filter is a Fram CA9492, and my Cabin Air Filter is a Fram CF8804A. I can say that Fram is one of the best, as well as the pioneer company that invented the oil filter in 1934. I find people no longer appreciate their cars, they just get the cheapest products to get them by; because they figure they'll scrap their cars someday, little do they realize that the car will last longer if they invest in quality products.
Many sources say that Ernest Sweetland and George Greenhalgh invented the oil filter in 1923. They called their invention the "Purolator". www.pureoil.com/es/purolator-structure-old/import/history/ www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/28436/story-automotive-filters-engines en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oil_filter I am fairly sure you mean invented the replaceable cartridge filter for vehicles. I agree with the rest of your post especially the part about "they just get the cheapest products to get them by".
@@LionWithTheLamb Wisely said, friend. You got me on that one, my mistake on the first oil filter; however, I believe we can agree that Fram invented the first replaceable cartridge oil filter in 1934. In any case, I thank you for your support. 😀
@@DanielAbreu1984 Yes, Fram did invent the replaceable cartridge oil filter.
I'm a Mobil 1 fan boy you SOB and in the last 3 days all you've done is make me pay triple for a Ford Racing filter on my next oil change! 😅 thanks bro🤣... Great vids! Keep it up.
Agree, it was a stupid observation with no facts.
Unacceptable! I will not be happy until my wallet is empty!
Jokes aside thanks for making content that actually helps the regular guy. You're doing God's work.
We just started getting a new filter at my work and I'd love to see you open it up. It's the microgaurd select. Made by wix. The stores don't seem to stock it yet but they will soon. You can order it though
The oriely special? I see gazillions of em here
@@SnipedGaming read it again. Microgaurd select. New filter
Does Wix make all of the microguard filters? I’m just curious because the regular Wix and Microguard are the only options I have at my local O’Reilly.
@@secondgenerationcleaning9246 yes they do
@@dustifilms oriely special because microguard is oriely's brand....
I’ve bought & used both before. I prefer the Fram ultra synthetic over the mobil one. The only reason I bought the mobil one was because the gold fram was out of stock when It was time to change my oil again. The lower price of the fram and the easy grip was an added bonus.
Keep up the good work 👍🏻
Thanks for doing this , now I can switch filters with more confidence that I'm doing the right thing for my truck.
I change my oil every 4000 miles , filter as well and always have since I bought this truck , a 2004 F350 Super Duty XLT 5.4 gas with 160,000 now on her .
She runs great but now I question my oil. I switched to Mobil 1 higher mileage synthetic 5/20 and wonder what you reccommend for it ?
I use 1quart of Lucas oil treatment with 5 quarts oil and it has been good so far . But of course would like to save some $ on oil changes , but still not compromise a good oil change either. Thanks again Boss!
I would try out Pennzoil Platinum Ultra
@@FordBossMe thank you!
Thanks for this. Walmart was out of the Mobil1 filters for a week so I hesitantly bought the Fram XG instead. After watching this, I'm glad I did. Thanks!
Thanks for making this one.
Just did 3000m oil change. 2015 mazda 3 2.5 I-4 58,000m. Mobil 1, dark oil was expecting it to be lighter. Mobil1 filter hand tight, the o-ring had a little distortion in it and that's just snugged with 1/4 hand tight. Yes I lubed the o-ring liberally prior to install. Installed the Fram Ultra Synthetic filter and Valvoline advanced full synthetic. You make me want to take better care of my vehicle. Thanks for your uploads.
Been running the Fram premium filter for years - no reason to switch. It's an excellent filter, thank you.
What brand/model filter cutter is that?
www.amazon.com/dp/B000CP8DFW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_FEYHYCBYWW5PJYSTM7GG?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
@@FordBossMe Thank you.
Can someone pleaseeeeee tell me, what exactly do you notice so different about using the fram vs the Mobil filter? A ton of you are saying you like it better, or feels better, or notice a difference… please explain… is it just a placebo effect?? Oil on the brain? Or something tangible data?
Don't put a like on your own comment
Only the ME TO people do that
The Fram Is synthetic - the mobil isn't
The Fram has a better filtering efficiency the mobil doesn't
The Fram is like 7$ on a Amazon subscription the mobil is 5 - 7$ more
It's common sense
@@FordBossMe of course I understand that and the logic behind it… 100% makes sense. Just asking the people with comments like “feel it running better”, or noticed a difference… with either or.
Haha! I LOVE it!! I only use the fram ultra synthetic filter on my jeep, i also bought one for the partners ram, i tried explaining to him how much better the fram is than the mobile one or wix XP, i put the fram on his truck when i changed the oil.
That just might be the only Fram I would run, I'm kinda digging it.
But if you're using Fram back in the day
You would have had no issues It was until all these other companies were hounding and lowering their prices where fram had to make a move to be competitive.
They will kill your oil pump eventually. 😉
I use fram ultra synthetic and have no problems
@@jesusthug how many oil pumps have you lost to Fram? All models or just a specific model? I'm the boshe and mobile guy too because I also just been using it since I was 18 hard to get new habits
I'm impressed by the Fram Ultra Synthetic, I'll still stick to my Purolator Boss though lol, Even tho its a little more expensive by $4 give or take.
Thats all I run in my vehicles. Great filters.
Thats all I run in my vehicles. Great filters.
Boss is 25 microns compared to Purolator one @ 20 microns.
Mobile 1 nano-technology is so small, so nano, you can't see it with your naked eyes. You need to have special nano-detection glasses on.
Only two complaints about those fram synthetic filters is the metal on the filter body is stupid thin, and it's the only filter I've ever had where the O-ring actually stuck on the engine block. From a purely filtration perspective, I think they're damn good.
If You're running a motor at enough oil pressure to possibly burst the side of a Fram oil filter then you are running the wrong application
I mean at the end of the day let's all be honest it comes down to preference it's not a really about quality so much because they all have s*** filters that the low end they all have really good filters at their high-end
@@FordBossMe I'm not crapping on them. I've got a cabinet full of their version of the FL-500s. I'll keep running them. My complaint about the thin nature of the metal is really only a concern whenever I'm changing them out. I feel like my filter plyers will puncture them.
Good filters. I'm not disagreeing. Generally if you keep your OCI below 5k, any filter is going to work just fine, and you'll never see any oil issues with the motor.
@@MikeMcCasland27 Fram tests their oil filters to 300 psi. The o-ring blows out well before the canister is anywhere close to bursting. m.th-cam.com/video/QnC0i5NLvjY/w-d-xo.html
👍 Been putting off doing this test myself Thanks! Guess I won't be using the Mobil 1 filter anymore.
Can you cut a K&N filter apart next plz and thanks?
Basically the same as the others. Only the fram ultra is in amsoil territory.
All he's saying is, get the cheapest filter, and change your oil every 3-5k miles and it wont matter what filter you use. Unless you start doing what he's doing with his Dodge and cleaning your engine, it will never fill up with crap and gunk in that short time. Mobil 1 is just expensive to be expensive, there is no reason to be, especially when he tore apart a Motorcraft one and it was a simple paper filter as well, just like the Mobil 1 and its cheaper. Get what ever you want, but really the cheap stuff WILL work just fine, don't be swayed by what some commenters say on how bad something is. That's all he's really trying to get across to people, stop being sheep and follow yourself.
Great demo!
I really these demo vids, see the inner workings...
I hate to sound like a fanboy but man. The Fram ultra's are absolutely top dog. They knocked it out of the park. I still have yet to find a filter that holds a bar to how that thing is built!!!
Fram US at our area walmarts is $8.97 and Mobil 1 is $9.97 FYI
Ok so you just answered which one the better filter is
@@FordBossMe Well, not exactly. The best filter is the one that produces the best outcome when the oil is sent out for analysis with a specific oil and on a specific vehicle. Could be either one or a plethora of others regardless of cost
What about the OEM Lexus/Toyota filters. Are they good enough for 5k oil change intervals?
Oh yes good filters
@@FordBossMe thank you for replying. That’s what I’ve been using for my 2015 Lexus GS350 and with Mobil 1 extended performance. Switching to Pennzoil Ultra Platinum on next oil change.
Ngl I keep getting mixed info - one year it’s K&N are the best, then Mobil 1, then this year I’m now learning about Amsoil. Have the Mobil 1’s gotten better?
I have been using the Ultra SYN XG2's. I found a deal on ebay for $5/a piece($30/ for 6). I noticed the grit used for the grip material, was in the box and on the flange/threads. I contacted Fram. They sent me replacements.
That’s the one thing I don’t like about Fram. They don’t seal the open end to prevent contaminants from getting in. All that dust instantly gets shot into the engine upon startup. 😤
@@I_know_what_im_talking_about That's wrong, the Ultra filters are sealed. The grit was from the material they use for grip, on the end.
K&N washable oil filter. What are your thoughts?
I run them Fram Ultra filters for 10 years. In 500+HP engines... I never seen one fail...I still would use a Ford if they made them for all vehicles. As I run them in my Fords...
The Fram Ultra hasn’t even been out for 10 years yet. Lol.
@@I_know_what_im_talking_about Yes it has you short bus rider...Walmart been carrying them since 2012.> Which is when they released them...
Solid video and I loved it! Not a fanboy, but I've been running Mobil 1 Extended Performance oil (5 quart jug cheap at Walmart) for ages on all my cars. Mobil 1 EP I believe is a full synthetic and my 210k '08 TL Type-S engine still looks awesome inside.
Full synthetic yes, not 100% synthetic. There’s a difference
@@ajmedeiros77 Tell the rich guy who just picked up his new 911 Turbo S that he should use Amsoil instead of the required Mobil 1. The proof is in the pudding. 100% synthetic or not, Mobil 1 is just the best. I've run it since the 90's. All my vehicles were traded or sold still idling smooth and quiet, pulling hard. No leaks. No oil consumption. Better MPGs than when new. And I live in the very hot, humid Gulf South. Drive them all hard too. Mobil 1 all day, every day. I wish they made a 2 stroke outboard oil cause it would be in my Optimax for sure.
Been running Mobil1 on multiple vehicles and never had any oil related issues in two decades. May not be the best of the best but its the brand that I trust.
Just an observation there seemed to be a lot more pleats in the M1 filter which gives more surface filter area .
Well so is the Ford Racing one compared to the Aimsoil one lol
People are still stuck up amsoils back side because of the type of material used
Awesome videos, love to see if a marine oil filter any different!
In your opinion what is the best oil and oil filter combination for passenger vehicles? Too many people go by "good enough" but I like to know what's the best from people who've done the research and not just fall for catchy advertising .
Fram Titanium or Fram Ultra filter and Pennzoil Platinum Ultra
Are you going to try to test the filters media wise just wondering
I called Mobil today and was told Mobile 1 filters are now made by Purolator. I looked at new Mobile 1 M212-A filter in Walmart, it was much different from the old ones I have purchased in the past.
Love your honesty and reviews.
I used to use the Mobil 1 Filters with the Black and Gold packaging and those worked pretty good. But now, On my Ram 1500 the Gasket leaks with the newer Green/Gray/Black packaged Mobil 1 filters with the 'A' suffix. I tried these 3 times before I gave up. I'd alternate between the Napa Gold and Black/Gold Mobil 1 filters, but now I alternate between the Napa Gold and Royal Purple.
I had a 97 Camry V6 and sometimes I'd have to take the Camry to Jiffy Lube which uses the yellow Pennzoil filters. At 3k miles the oil is usually pretty dark. Sometimes Jiffy Lube would use an AC Delco filter and the oil was never as dark at 3k miles.
I got the other day filters for all my vehicles at Walmart the Fram endurance, is the same as AMSOIL thanks to whip city wrencher.
The Ultra was my goto filter, too bad shortly after this was filmed Fram decided to bait-and-switch long term Fram Ultra/ExtendedGaurd/"Fram X2" users by switching from dual layer microglass media with a wire backing to a shitty cellulose layer with a layer of microglass over the top of it with no reinforcement screen.
I'll have another look
What would be your personal pick, A Wix or the Fram Ultra ?
Fram Ultra, the wix still doesn't do as good as the ultra
@@FordBossMe Thank you.
So which top 5 filters you like?
Excellently well explained !!
Is the metal mesh like a back up protection for the people who overuse the filter?
No it's a 2 ply full synthetic filter. The first ply has a wire backing and the second ply has core backing.
@@elihernandez330 I get that but what would be the benefit of it compared to one that doesn't have a wire backing?
@@devonross5825 supposed to help with media warpage and that can decrease the holding capacity and reduce flow. Helps keep the pleats septated and structured while the core prevents total collapse.
@@elihernandez330 makes sense, thanks for the info
As a result of plugged up pleats and suction the material can collapse on itself completely blocking flow in the affected pleats, having the reinforced mesh helps to prevent that.
But Rich what about the reusable screen oil filters? 👨🏼🔧
Have not tried them
Maybe I just had a one time bad experience but I bought a mobile 1 filter with a rebate a few years ago and I’ve changed oil for many years I put this filter on and first thing I noticed was it leaked pretty badly saw a puddle in my driveway nothing pissing out when driving. My car also had a horrible start up rattle I changed the oil the next day and filter and went back to what I usually use (motor craft) and the leak and start up rattle went away so maybe I just got a defective one. Also is that a 10th mountain tattoo?
Yes it is Hooah
"Synthetic" media is basically a cloth, so it needs a backer. Paper filters are more rigid so they don't need the mesh backer.
Basically both types of filters are barrier type filters. They are a barrier with holes in it that block particles over a certain size from getting through... They do the same thing the same way. The better filter basically has the most surface area to clog... That's pretty much it.
Years ago Hastings made a depth filter. Basocally they stuffed a filter with material and as the oil pushed it's way through the dirt got trapped in the sponge like filter. There was supposed to be more media to trap the dirt in depth, kind of like a sponge soaks up dirt rather than like a barrier filter like a screen that keeps flies out of your house.
I drank the Kool-Aid and tried the Hastings filters twice and coincidently both times I wound up with my engine in pieces on the driveway for issues that might have been oil related. And yes... it might have been something else, but I wasn't going to try the depth filter again.
Likewise a friend blew two engines on Mobil 1... one was a seized wrist pin and I forget the other failure. But he'll never use Mobil 1 again. So, I've got two Gen 1 Saturns with well over 200,000 miles running on Mobil 1 and neither even has a working odometer so at best I'm guessing on the oil changes, which is why I use 20,000 mile oil... and for me the Mobil 1 works fine. I ran the Castrol Syntec for several years, but without an odometer, I just feel safer with 20,000 mile oil, so at least I can convince myself that I'm doing oil changes within the recommended intervals.
What really hurts is that I've only filled my car twice with gas since the pandemic started and have over a half tank left and it's almost due for another oil change, for the one year interval. On a Crown Vic Police Interceptor... that's less than 300 miles. On the up side after the pandemic, I'll likely have a lot of rust to fix.
If that's the case the engineers may have been smoking something as filters should have a bypass. Filter will flow regardless if the media is clogged
Thanks for commenting……
@peter Health issues. age and some expensive auto repairs I can't do right now get in the way of me doing too much driving... not to mention gas insane gas prices kind of a strange situation 5 cars and I almost never drive. Still never give up the hope that tomorrow things will be better and I'll have somewhere to go.
I've used every type of filter made and never had any problems with any of them.. I've used them on Atvs, outboards, lawn mowers, pickup trucks, cars, log trucks, semis, skidders, tractors, hydraulic pumps ect ect!! Never seen a one go bad..
1:37 5 year old me tryin to make ravioli
Just wondering if it's safe to run the frame filter for 20000 km with full synthetic
I wouldn't run any filter 20,000 miles change your oil at 5,000 miles and no more and your filter
@@FordBossMe I used Mobil 1 oil and filters in my '97 K1500 GMC, with a 305 in it. Wore it out; at the very least, I probably should have swapped out the filter at 2,500, and topped off the oil. I have DECADES of experience with oil changes, and even back then, I should have stuck to the 3,000 mile change intervals. Lesson learned! My mom's '87 Lincoln Town Car got 2,000 mile oil changes; Michigan vehicle, and the oil pan on its 302 rusted, to the point it started weeping oil. When a new pan was installed on the engine, no, I mean NO "gunk" of any type was IN the old pan--it looked brand new inside... lol
Yes. Thank you! Amsoil has been saying this for a very long time, but even still acknowledge that M1 makes an amazing oil!
They make a great filter people just need to quit making it seem like they are our gift to oil filters
@@FordBossMe For sure. M1 makes good stuff but a lot of what you pay for is their marketing budget. Solid product but you can find higher quality oil and oil filters at half the cost. Supertech makes a very solid oil and filter at a fraction of the cost. Check out Project Farms video on the matter.
@@HaloDaycare project farm proves that wix was the winning filter including the pressure testing I'm seriously considering switching to wix but I got lazy and didn't have a accurate part number for the wix I needed and went with what I knew already
The man is all eyes, grabs the m1 filter and jogs off in glee to pay 2x higher than the best filters neer by. The m1 oil? Same0 same0!
Love your videos dude!
I was just watching a video on this same thing last night. Ive been using fram filters for a long time..... never had a problem with them. Little did i know, they are actually decent filters.
Best filer video hands down and finishes will class lol got to love it
Of the two, your pick of the first one to go into bypass, and why?
I would probably say the fram because of how much it filters so if you had two of the same dirty engines the frame would probably filter out the dirt faster and go into bypass sooner
@@FordBossMe true the fram ultra has one of the best filtration numbers but the ultra is a 2 ply full syn media so it should have more holding capacity for contaminants.
I believe they talk about holding capacity on the website but yes once they both open they'll both bypass but I believe fram talks about the full syn glass fiber media being able to hold dirt in much better without letting it go while in bypass.
Have you ever cut open amsoil oil filter? They are very expensive.
Yep in the library here
Quality control is something to keep in mind too.
The bypass opens every time the engine is started cold. The oil doesn't get filtered until it warms up and gets thin enough to get thru the filter media.
I like to support the "underdogs" or the ones that are not as popular. That is why I have been using Quaker State oil. Really impressed with the Fram filter. Thanks for helping me get rid of the "fram is garbage" mentality
I've used FRAM GOLD ULTRA Filters & they are good ...I wouldn't touch the dreaded Orange Can Of Death At All
I’m running the Fram Ultra in my 4Runner right now
Recently bought for oil change Fram shown in your video ,from Walmart there wasn't a a gasket . Returned it checked others of the same and more of them without gaskets also. To me this speaks volumes!
This is kind of ridiculous kind of hard to believe to be honest with you but hey anything can happen
@Ford Boss Me I don't blame you ,but although this situation really did happen . No quality control at Fram inc.
Finally some real unbiased comparison between the two brands. I for one will be switching to Fram XG for my next oil change.
Just curious does Fram sponsor your channel? I have nothing against Fram use to use them but always considered them to be a cheap filter but used them nonetheless. But I have a 08 F150 and I just run the Motorcraft filter like came on it. I do run Mobil 1 high mileage. Is it not a good oil ? I don't know I'm just a weekend DIY er trying to save some money. 😎👍👋🤙
Fram doesn't sponsor my channel but I'm tired of people's b******* about friend being the worst product on the market they all have bad products and they all have good products
I don't have any sponsors on this channel me myself and I and the work that I do that's it
👍😎🤙 Is Mobil 1 oil good or would you reccomend something else? That's all I've put in it since 08.
And fan boys just trying to get you all rialed up.
@@Jay388 It's a fine oil, the basics really come down to that the specific brand doesn't matter nearly as much as the change interval.
Great demo vid💯👍
Good stuff. What about Puralator? The construction looked decent from the outside.
There's another video that loaded at the same time this one did I have two more Purolator is coming but I already reviewed a basic Purolator on the other video. Just now loaded
this filter is made by Purolator, look at the base plate with those oval holes and a with the typical Purolator bypass valve, with a flat spring, it is similar to a Purolator pure one.
Nanananananananannananananan take that! lol Great video. I'm now really impressed with Fram! I think Fram really needs to up their ad campaigns.
I use the Fram TG16 premium filters on my Jeep. I change them every 5K miles with Semi Synthetic High Milage Oil(5W-30) by Mag1 even though it's rated for 15K. It's what I do to keep my Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4.7L running smoothly with over 222K miles
Mobil 1 filters are decent, but pricy. $20 cdn plus 11% tax. Bought only when on sale. I found out ford filters at the dealer were half the price. So, i buy them now. FL500s are what the 2015 Taurus uses.
notice the moble was harder to cut open. pletts on fram were farther apart. moble 1 pletts closer and tigher.
Fram is a synthetic filter mobil isnt....fram filters better
@@FordBossMe ya right
@@MrWhatis okay so the one thing I try to do is I try to be pretty respectful to people until they start getting pretty ignorant and then I have to turn it up a little bit before I get rid of them because they're just clowns so what I'm asking you to do is not be that person here because I won't tolerate it
If you're not willing to go do the research and you're not willing to look things up then you shouldn't be willing to comment on this page
@@MrWhatis doing reviews of oil and filters does a small part of this channel it's not even the main purpose of this channel
If you look through my videos you'll see me talking about engines and repairs things of this nature on brand new vehicles that nobody else on the internet talks about because I really try to step out of the way and help people into the right thing to make sure they're taken care of..... now that's what this channel is about
Imagine a guy like me has his own independent shop plus is a Master Mechanic for the dealership giving his time to people all over the world trying to help them with their problems and somebody like you comes along and tries to be a thorn in their side all because of an oil filter
Imagine somebody like me with my experience doing what I do every single day relentlessly generously giving up my time and you Joe Schmo comes along and tells me how to do my job or what is what and I do it every single day literally from the time I get off until the time I go to bed and then when I go to bed I'm dreaming about the s*** that I'm doing because I do is so much
Mr Bob Ray I think I deserve a little bit more respect than what you're giving me right now and you're just trying to be a troll and I like to see a respectful sincere at least somewhat compassionate relationship aside from you and not this
@@FordBossMe I just notice you do have problem cutting it open, and on 3.03 of your video and say the filter is paper but on their web site moble 1 caims it is a synethethic blend. should i believe you or the moble 1 ?
What is that cutting vise tool you used called?
The one I bought was a really expensive one it was like 70 bucks off Amazon but they make cheaper ones that are just as good
www.amazon.com/dp/B000CP8DFW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glc_fabc_CBKMYJKA77EJ100H50SE?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Man, thanks so much for doing this. I am sorry you you get the hate mail, damn man you don’t deserve it. You spend your own money and buy these out out of your own pocket just to take them to bits. I am impressed by the quality of the off the shelf motor craft filters compared to the rest of the pack and am really surprised at the 9 buck fram. Not bad.
Thanks for taking the time to show this and keep on truckin’. Cheers.
Anyone who checks their oil frequently and changes air and oil filetrs on schedule will be way ahead of the game. So many comments and here is one more about filter media. While you can make statements about the construction materials used in the various filters when eyeballing them, you can't look at filter media and know anything about how it performs. For that you need very sophisticated light microscopy, nitrogen and mercury porosimetry instruments and a host of various calibrated fluorescent beads to perform filter challenge testing with various diameter beads. Designing and engineering various filter media is a multibillion dollar industry and expanded cellulosic filter media is still widely used in industry for filtering oil.
All engine oil filters use a depth style media. That means they trap particles throughout the depth of the media. Where the particle gets trapped is pretty random but this style of media has a much greater capacity for holding particulate matter and is much lower to clog under normal use. And let's not forget that almost all filter media is rated for trapping spherical particles while real world particles can be fine needles or shreds of metal shavings. And while you can specify the rate of particle entrapment in a single pass, the oil is recycled continuously so particles have many chances of being trapped.
Could it be that engine designers do not know about specific oil design criteria and allow the specialists at oil lubricating labs to make those design decisions for them? How about filter media engineering? The real question is what is the source of the filter media used in these different engine oil filters and how quickly do they load up and how efficient are they at trapping particles at any given size range. A really fine filter media may clog too quickly vs another one that has a much greater capacity for larger particles that create much greater engine wear. That is an engineering tradeoff and requires extensive engineering expertise to balance the variables efficiently. Imagine an elaborate dry sump oil filtration system that weighs more and costs more than the entire production engine? Not so useful as a daily driver. But your oil would stay clean forever or until it broke down chemically. You get some of that engineering on a long haul turbodiesel engine for trucking but it would not fit under the hood of your passenger car.
Driving conditions and frequent oil filter changes plus air filter changes can go a long way towards making the case for using a lower cost filter and changing it out more frequently. The industry is tending towards the opposite with a longer period between oil changes and increased service intervals. That makes sense when dealer service charges are ever increasing but not as much for the do it yourself crowd who enjoys the maintenance of their vehicles. All food for thought.
Here is my idea for a real world oil filter test. Weigh your oil filter when new, dry and never installed. Install same oil filter at oil change. Run filter for rated mileage. Remove filter and now flush with solvents until absolutely all oil is removed. Blow dry slowly with compressed air until absolutely dry. Weigh and compare weight to measure amount of dirt trapped inside filer. Repeat with other brands and compare weight changes. Produce TH-cam video and get rich and famous. I am not this patient.
Geek out on ISO 4548-12:2017
Methods of test for full-flow lubricating oil filters for internal combustion engines - Part 12: Filtration efficiency using particle counting and contaminant retention capacity
This standard was last reviewed and confirmed in 2022. Therefore this version remains current.
Abstract
ISO 4548-12:2017 specifies a multi-pass filtration test with continuous contaminant injection and using the online particle counting method for evaluating the performance of full-flow lubricating oil filters for internal combustion engines. The scope of this document is limited to steady state conditions and does not address fluctuations in the flow rate.
The test procedure determines the contaminant capacity of a filter, its particulate removal characteristics and differential pressure.
This test is intended for application to filter elements with an efficiency of less than 99 % at particle size greater than 10 μm.
From the research that I have done; Mobil 1 oil is full synthetic. What say you?
Almost all on shelf oil even when it says is full synthetic is NOT 100% synthetic
Mobil is a low additive pack oil so it's on of the worst
Oil companies can put minimum synthetic and still call it full synthetic
Could we do a comparison with K & N and Royal Purple filters? That would be something..