Why you can't upgrade your entry level road bike
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 ม.ค. 2020
- This video features a Cannondale CAAD Optimo and a Cannondale CAAD 12. I go through the features of each bike and explain how you can but might not want to upgrade your entry level road bike.
#CAAD12
#cannondaleroadbike
#CAADoptimo
I have to tell my customers this all the time, they usually come back to me and buy a whole new bike though. Vittoria Tactic wheelset 240$, 105 for about 500$ or so, 150 for labor etc. Great advice, I hope more people understand the importance of investing money from the beginning.
I'm glad you can relate, it is a common conversation for me.
Investing money? Idk, just keep the cheap bike clean and maintained, sell it, buy new during the fall. Beginner cyclists have no clue what they want until they sit in the saddle for a few hundred hours.
@@chrisE815 But there are plenty of great beginner options with 105's out there. Especially on endurance frames
You say it’s important to invest money in the beginning, but that presumes crystal-ball knowledge of the future. The new rider may lose interest, or move away from road bikes, or decide that entry level is just fine. I would strongly advise against “investing too much in the beginning”. If an unused, unloved $2500 bike is staring at you forlornly from a dusty corner, you’ll probably have such a guilt trip that you take up golf. God forbid :)
@@albertbatfinder5240 This is actually why I would consider going the other way, and buying an absurdly _cheap_ bike for your first bike. Spend $400, then when you've decided you like the sport enough to continue with something better you can drop the cool $1500 on something you really like.
Life hack: stop looking at other peoples bikes. Those are their bikes. Look at your bike, it appreciates it.
Replace bike with wife 😃
@@ayowser01 Yuk!
@@ayowser01 Wow, at 1st reading, I thought you meant to upgrade from wife to bike, which isn't right. 2nd reading, I thought that while both require time and money, the wife is worth it. I was feeling guilty as being in coronavirus lockdown, I want able to get a proper mother's day gift, flowers, and breakfast in bed. Finally, on 3rd reading, I realized that you meant that wives appreciate their husbands sole attention. A lot of emotion from 4 little words.
MrMikeV thanks for the college essay
@@kedapofeng8993 😄
The best part of upgrading is learning the ins and outs of bike repair and maintenance yourself.
That is true.
Also the worst.
I agree with you wholeheartedly. It is how I got to understand bikes. I don't go to workshops any longer; I just buy parts online and usually for cheap. The thing I reckon he is trying to point out though is that there is only a certain limited 'bandwidth' to upgrading, and so initial bike purchase needs a lot of pre-thought.
I spent 5k and waited for 3 weeks to make my bike 1 pound lighter, during that time, I gained 3 pounds at home, haha
Attaboy!!!
😂😂
This comment reads like a Rodney Dangerfield joke. Love it, thanks! :D
Paying thousands to have a bike that's only 1 lbs lighter is stupid.
@@kalijasin It's a joke. And for professionals it totally worth the money
If I ask my local bike shop which oil I should use, he recommends buying a new bike!
Have you ever visited an optician for a simple test and not walked out with a new pair of glasses? It's the same thing, really.
I'm a regular customer and friends with my local bike shop guys, and they've never tried to push me into buying something I didn't come in the door for. They don't have the most interesting stuff to buy, but they cover the basics and have a fantastic workshop and insanely good service for us regulars. We'll always come back for service parts, bottles, tires etc
@@krisberntzen
Sorry, I didn't mean to sully all bike shops - just my local one!
If I'm willing to travel I know a great one.
🤣🤣🤣
It's the same as any enthusiast hobby, I have a really old shitty bike I bought used, I happily cycle it around and for me it's ideal, it gets me to and from work. My colleague told me it was shitty and that I should buy a new bike and spend at least €1000 for it. My bike costed me €120, and it does everything I need it to, so I won't be doing that.
But then the other day my friend showed me his 'vinyl turntable'. It was a crosby cruiser. I had to fight the urge to tell him to turn it off because the cheap spring driven tracking force is wrecking his records and the built in shitty speakers are hurting my ears, and that he needs to go and buy a good turntable if he wants to get into vinyl.
We're all guilty of it somewhere I guess.
You don't have to change the wheels... just change your boddy. There are way more things that you can upgrade than only your drivetrain.
After biking for a while, I've realized that upgrading is worthless unless you're at the very top levels. The biggest thing to upgrade is the rider, their fitness, strength and aerobic capacity. Many 12 thousand dollar bike riders have been dropped by some guy on a 20 year old steel bike.
cliff cox Very true. Most people don’t race, they ride to keep fit and enjoy the great outdoors. You can fulfil both on a bike costing 800 bucks.
@@stevegeek I race,but noticed even with a nearly total bike change of parts, my time trial times were just tens of seconds faster. But where it all mattered was fitness and raceceaft. So in the end, I realized, the bike mattered very little. It was the man and his efforts that mattered most.
There are exceptions. When I moved from a maintained '86 Cannondale R400 to a 2014 Fuji Sportif 1.3, i gained about 1 mph on my rides. That made it more reasonable to do full centuries instead of metric century rides.
biggest thing to upgrade is the seat, i have not found a single bike that comes with one that isnt a torture device.
That's very cool. I see guys all the time here in LA with bikes from the 70's and 80's steel. Im thinking the same can be true with carbon, as time passes, why is there a need to own new carbon when your current bike can serve you well.
This is why I buy high-end bikes and downgrade.
RadioSnivins lol hilarious😂😂😂👍👍
Lol I love it!
hahahaha
ROFL🤑🤣😂
Coming up next: Downgrading my S-Works Venge Ultegra Di2 to a full Claris setup. Dream come true 😍
Thats why I only upgrade walmart road-bikes. I just replace the frame with PVC pipes.
🤣💀
Aero 100
Speed +10
Durability +10 tbh
😹
Best upgrades for a bike that will actually make a change: Tires, saddle, pedals.
Big facts... 💯
I'd say bike fit in general, and for tires I wouldn't say upgrades but getting the right tire for the right job. Pedals are meh too if you're no using clipless
@@0741921 absolutely not. Points of contact are where you will notice the biggest change, good set of pedals will absolutely improve the ride.
I ride flat pedals with 80mm carbon rims.
Also keeping your tires at the proper pressure, cleaning the gears and oiling the chain.
As Eddy Merckx said, if you want to get better: "Don't buy upgrades, ride UP grades".
Most don't really want to put in the effort to get better they just want to look like they do.
@@PoliticusRex632lol so true
Cyclesteffer he almost certainly never said that
It will works, until a certain point.
Can do both, pretty sure Eddy used the best equipment available at the time.
After running on an old 5 speed (1x5, so 5 total) for a few years, I've come to realize that unless you are racing, the hardware on the bike does not really matter so long as the bike isn't falling apart. There is always going to be something new and shiny, but unless its substantially better or fundamentally changes the experience you are probably better off sticking with what you have.
Good comments. The beauty of a bike is it's very simplicity. A five speed is very practical for most purposes.
Sure but with a 5 speed you probably won't be climbing any mountains and that's a beautiful experience, you're missing out !
@@Peakabike well not too long ago even to motch 2x10 werent much for climbing either, it came to being a thing once Tours started to have much more climbing.
and u can have 11 to 34 on 8 speed as well on 11 speed cassete,...
The problem with 5 or 6 speed may be today spare part supply, these groups are no longer produced (today they have 7 and 8 speed for simple bikes).
But in worst case you can convert this bike into a 8 speed one, here the cassettes and chains are dirt cheap
I don’t know - I upgraded my road bike from an Ultegra 6800 9-speed shifter/cassette to an Ultegra 8000 10-speed shifter/cassette and was immediately struck by how much easier it is to shift.
The cost to upgrade is less relevant after the original parts are worn out and need replacement, anyway.
Well put
My 20 year old gets nice parts not equivalent. So yea some math has to be done but that’s nothing, frame is good and fits me perfect. Originally a Schwinn super sport glx. Has now a mix of 105 and ultegra group set with Rolf rims. In the end to keep it on the road not that price per mile.
Yup ride it until it fails, then upgrade and the price difference is negligible.
What you can almost always upgrade are wheels. And it's always worth it. Get some good lightweight wheelset with replaceable freehubs and you'll love them. And a wheelset will make a more noticeable difference than anything else. And the best part, you can reuse them on a new bike.
Amen to that! How many times do you see someone with a mediocre- grade wheelset with a Chris King headset? Priorities, people.
Wider brand name tires at the proper pressure will make much more of a difference than a high end wheel set.
The more realistic upgrade would be to 10 speed Tiagra. Those groupsets go for about $300.
I think this video makes this a bit extreme on purpose.
Agreed. I upgraded from claris to tiagra for under $250.
Upgraded to 2x12 for the 300$ just buy online and not in such bike Shops. You get a full carbon bike for the 1500$ with the nice China prices.
He is apparently selling an Alloy bike with 105 5800 in 2020 for 1599 usd so that tells you a lot
@@PKownzthem Right?? Both of those are the old groupsets. Selling those bikes for brand new prices when they're a generation out of date is robbery.
MonsterInYourCloset „Robbery“ may be a little over the top and I like supporting local businesses but I won‘t complain over shops like this losing business to the online market...I mean old claris for 850 usd wtf...
granted the Caad12 seem to be great alloy frames and 105 5800 is solid but the new models cost the same and have the ultegra-rivaling 105 R7000
If you aren't specifically seeking more speeds, a sensible upgrade can be going from a current-generation, lower-end groupset, to a slightly older model of an upper-end groupset that had the same/similar number of speeds when that was the latest and greatest. This way, you can just swap out some key parts over time and even keep some parts as-is entirely (in practice even many _8- to 9- speed_ conversions involve a lot of cross-compatible parts besides cassette/indexed shifters). Just swapping out a heavy, entry-level crankset for an older, nicer carbon one, for instance, can save a lot of weight by itself, even if you have to keep the same chainrings for _best_ compatibility.
Meant to mention: this video does do a quality job of enlightening those who may be newer to cycling about some not-so-obvious considerations/limitations that are relevant for many scenarios.
This is a needlessly complicated upgrade for that frame. When the 9-speed junk on my first road bike wore out I upgraded to 10-speed Tiagra. Inexpensive, compatible, and runs great. I still ride it sometimes and still love it. And I learned a ton fitting it myself. Got the bike shop to do a couple of things where I wasn’t confident or didn’t have the tools. Guess what? They gave me a hard time and suggested I should just buy a new bike…
A shop is there to sell you things. They did exactly what they're meant to do, up sell you things
I bet the original components were not junk
Tiagra is an underrated groupset
A good advice from this video : if you are on a budget, try to go on the Shimano 105. You can upgrade it with Ultegra or Dura Ace later if you want.
And with the way Shimano filters down technology. In 2 years time, going from 105 to Tiagra is an upgrade. One of my old road bikes I have stacked away with Dura-ace, going to new Tiagra would be an upgrade.
Hey thanks! After many years of riding about 11 years ago I bought my first new road bike- and they sold me on the Shimano 105. I’m sure glad they did. I still love that bike-the last of the steel Allez-Elites. Your video sure clarified some things I’ve been wondering about concerning upgrades.
Richard Hall I’ve had 105 on my specialized diverge for 5 years now, the original shimano xtr 9000 pedals have broken, the axis 4.0 rear wheel has a cracked rim and replaced but the derailluers have been trouble free
Good points made here. I bought my bike 10 years ago with 105 and it’s done very well. Along the way I’ve just made small upgrades as parts wore out. I have thought about getting a new group set however, and upgrading to the new 11 speed 105 or even Ultegra would be cheaper than getting a new bike for me and I’ve certainly gotten plenty of use out of the current setup for what I paid back then.
That's why I went for the 100 dollar Walmart bike instead of the 60 dollar Walmart bike hahahah
Some people get so caught up in the bike rather then what got them riding in the first place. Buy whats you can afford and if you want a better bike save up. Trying to ride what the pros ride is silly unless you are trying to be a pro and then everything will be given to you.
agreed and until you are near pro level, a bike that is pro level is not going to help more then the rider who gets used to the bike they have, yeah upgrades will not help until you are Pro level he bike will not be the issue.
@@robbiddlecombe8392 I hear you. I bought my ten speed new in 1974 or 1975. I have a sentimental attachment to it, but I am getting something newer and better (if and when the new bike ever gets to the dealer).
@@robbiddlecombe8392 nobody is saying to compare things 30 years apart. What people are saying is certainly valid. You going from 10to 11 speed isn't going to change your fun. There are so many other costly things that are pushed to cyclists that have nothing to do with fun. Even an entry level Shimano group set, a proper bike fit will make things fun. Upgrades like aero carbon bars or wheels does nothing to your enjoyment, yet the average weekend rider is obssessed with those. No one here is jealous, because most people aren't swallowed into the buying the most expensive and latest gear. I'm aware not all upgrades are speed related and come like carbon frames can also be comfort. But once again, I've heard stuff like carbon frames are like riding 35c on aluminum whohc is a bunch of bulshit. If you wanted comfort, your best friends are thicker tires plus a suspension seatpost. If you want to buy something, by all means go ahead. No judgement. But it doesn't change the fact about the marginal returns on high investment in the cycling industry.
@@robbiddlecombe8392 and just to add to that, most people buying these bikes are definitely obssed with speed. Go to any bike forum asking how to put a kickstand on your bike and you'll be laughed out being told you're gonna add so much weight, why buy a road bike, and all that shit. Yet these baffoons riding in the city look like idiots trying to balance their bike everywhere sacrificing convenience and comfort for imaginary speed
Great advice, I was given my uncles old road bike he used in masters games races as he is no longer able to ride (cancer). It is an Avanti aluminium with Shimano sora. I love the feel of the frame and wanted to keep the bike on the road to ride and to honour my uncle, unfortunately the running gear was past its best and I toyed with the idea of a full upgrade to 105. After throwing ‘upgrades’ at my mountain bike that left me flat I instead decided to keep the bike stock but fit new parts. After spending only a couple hundred on a mix of sora, microshift and tektro parts plus some bar tape and a saddle from the spares pile, with a thorough service I now have a great riding bike that my uncle was so happy to see back on the road. I think we all get hung up on the more is better side of things, I’ve been guilty of that many times myself. And now I ride this old 2x9 whilst my other bikes hang on the racks, just have to go a bit harder on the hillls😄👍
I've found that it is very satisfying to put in the time and effort of resurrecting an "old friend" with the parts and repairs it needs, and having the joy of going on lots of good rides with a bike that has a history.
This exact bike ... i upgraded with Campagnolo Chorus shifters, front and rear derailleurs, and brake calipers and Mavic Kyrisium wheels. So, yes, you can absolutely upgrade an entry level road bike.
Have you measured frame weight?
@@dioright no, but not a heavy frame. This is CAAD technology (CAAD Optimo), so it has the DNA of the more expensive CAAD line of frames.
Yes campagnolo is way nicer than shimano . I'd rather upgrade than buy new . Once I find a frame that fits I keep it .
I was upsold to the 105 spec’d Cannondale six 5... 10 years later, I have replaced everything but the frame. Love my bike.
This is the best advice ever! On the other hand, the most sensible upgrades for the cheap bike would be wider tires and proper brake pads. Just switching from cheap and hard 25mm rubber to decent brand name 28mm tires will make a world of a difference. Replacing the stock generic brake pads with proper ones, such as Kool-Stop Dura, will feel like you got a completely different brake set.
Too late, i upgraded everything on my caad9, reynolds assault wheels, carbon stem, hanlebar, seatpost, ceramic pulleys, kogl bottom bracket, and full ultegra r8000, love it!!!
its about the journey not the final value, working and upgrading your own bike takes passion and builds skill, you get to know every inch of your device and learn along the way, most people who spend 5k+ on the latest builds don't know how to change a chain much less building, service or upgrading
@Bas Bakker that was the idea, most hooked up caad9 frame
That's silly.
Rip
Dude, thank you! You really helped me learn about shimano gear sets , cost and upgrades. I never understood this talking to my bike shop guys. This is great stuff. Hope you put out more videos like this in plain language that consumers relate too.....cost.
The best upgrade to your cycling life when you’re a total beginner, is your first bike. I myself have a 2021 specialized allez base, with the same Claris drivetrain, and it’s a true workhorse groupset after getting adjusted a little bit! I swear this bike has got to be one of my two favorite bikes I’ve ever owned, the other being my trusty trek hybrid.
I bought the exact same bike (2019 though) and upgraded it with great succes. I bought 3650 Hunt's wheelset, and will soon receive a Sensah Empire groupset. But the base bike is very capable, but is a bit lacking on the groupset side. I would recommend buying a bike with
105
@@jacktremblay7935eventually, I will. I didn’t find any decent used bikes around me when I wanted to try road cycling, and there was no way I was paying extra for a new 105 equipped bike in case I hated road cycling (not to mention bikes were very scarce around this time) so I bought my allez. Fast forward and, despite some fluctuations in attitude, this is still an amazing bike and I do plan to upgrade to 105 in the future
i have the giant equivalent sitting around for the rare occasion that I ride purely on pavement, and the only thing I've changed is the bars and crankset. the 52/39 it came with was a bit much for my legs, and I've been equally fast if not faster with a 48/34, with less knee pain.
"Why you can't upgrade your entry level road bike" DON'T TELL ME WHAT TO DO YOU'RE NOT MY REAL DAD
You had me cracking 😂
@Kleiner Helfer we're basically the same person, give or take about 3 decades
Lmao
...but he's a bike shop sales 😛
@@awawa420 hi pare
I always love when people say "entry level" and then show a $1,000+ bike. It's kind of like pointing at a Corvette and saying "that's an entry level car".
To be fair it is the cheapest road bike Cannondale sold at that time.
Very different scenarios honestly. Most entry level road bikes are in the $800-$900 range. In a field that can easily exceed $10,000. It’s more like looking at a Miata and saying it’s an entry level sport car.
This bike is an entry level bike. It's bottom of the range. It's the lowest spec you can buy. The bike on the lowest level of entry. Entry level.
@@john2.099 If you think this is the lowest spec you can buy, clearly you have never visited you local Walmart. Look, I get it, this is "entry level" for a name brand bike but lets be clear the average person on the street who has never ridden a road bike is not going to look at a $1,000 bike and think "entry level".
@@MrQuaiven they aren't bikes. They're landfill.
Nice points! I outgrew my Canondale Quick 6 after just a couple of months of bike commuting. To spice it up I was looking at either getting a nice Bianchi or doing a frankenbike fixed gear. Price comparison won out and I've got a lovely fixed gear with a gear ratio that was towards the top range of my Canondale's gear set. As often said, its more about the rider than the bike! Happy trails!
I've that green cannondale as well, only with 10 speed and it's a great sturdy bike, light for aluminium and now on my 5th year with it. Done many triathlons on it and biggest upgrade has been a set of clipon aero bars. Not the most expensive bike but served me so well
Thank you for this advice, 100% agree. I have an entry-level gravel bike (Fuji Jari 2.5) myself and I also found our that It does not make any sense to try to upgrade it to the top-level components. What does make sense is to upgrade the saddle, brakes (the ones in stock are too bad), put contact pedals and... enjoy it as is. It is still a great bike for everyday rides, for roads I have 2 relatively cheap tires that I can easily change myself. This bike now is a "working horse" and I don't care too much if something breaks down - it is much cheaper to change Alivio derailleur than fancy 105 or Ultegra.
I also think that it is always better to think WHY do you need an upgrade and if your REALLY need it. Personally, I know that I will simply buy a new road bike later on top components and will use it only for roads and training. But the old one, that is relatively cheap, but still gives me a lot of fun will stay with me as everyday bike.
Thanks again.
This is exactly what I would do..
I have specialized allez with shimano 2300 group (probably the cheapest one, even cheaper than claris). Rear cassette was 8 speed 12-25, after i warn it out I upgraded it to 8 speed 11-28, and that was enough for the hils (up to 15% slope) and downhill speed. Three cogs made significant improvement in the first gear. No need to change shifters, derailleur or anything else except for the chain (it was also warn out). Not many people are riding their bikes that much so they need top end group, not even 105 for the miles they ride. This cheap 2300 will get you everywhere the same way ultegra or dura ace is if you are amateur like most of us riders are. My bike was even cheaper than this cannondale and I enjoy every kilometer i make. Groupset is not going to help anyone to pass steep hills, riding your bicycle will.
Context is always critical in these scenarios. While I agree with his recommendation (likely better off selling your current bike and buying a new one) solely for the use case he outlined (e.g., upgrading a bike you recently purchased - within 1 to 3 years?), the reality is if you have an older bike that has an entirely acceptable frame, you owe it to yourself (financially) as well as the environment to pursue an upgrade and to avoid the 'consumable' economy. I upgraded my 30+ year Mongoose Alta with a Deore 9 speed cassette, wheel, crank set, bottom bracket, chain, and Alivio shifters for ~$300 a few years ago myself and it transformed the bike and saved me from paying $1,500+ for a new one. Always keep in mind the margin on a new bike is much greater than the margin on individual parts. As a result, bike shops almost always have an incentive to steer you towards the newer bike. Resist. Find a reputable bike shop (usually the mom and pop shops that are off the beaten path) that have your best interests in mind (and that allow you to order and buy parts through them - allows you to discuss your goals with an expert prior to ordering so that you don't buy the wrong part), and stay away from the glitzy shops except in those rare instances when you need a specialty part and it is worth your time and money to pay for the cost differential.
Yep. I have a 15yo Lemond with a hybrid steel/carbon frame that I love. It's 9-speed 105 all around with an Ultegra rear derailleur. Two weeks ago one of the rims cracked, and I found a crack in one of the pulleys. Finding a good 9-speed wheel is hard, so I compared new vs. upgrading the whole kit. Comparable bikes today are around $2,000, and with that you get an ALU frame with full 105 or a carbon frame with Tiagra. Or I can spend the winter installing full Ultegra 11-speed (including wheels) for around $1,000. In other words, for half the cost of a new bike, I'll have a better frame and better components than buying new.
Couldn’t agree more, I bought a second road bike and then upgraded to 11 speed 105 group set. All bought second hand and fitted at home for a fraction of the price of an equivalent bike (new or used), or for than matter the cost of new parts. The bike rides and handles so much better. Also, a major point not mentioned is that the upgrades can be purchased as a series of little purchases, as and when they are affordable. This mitigates the need for a huge one off cost of buying a new bike. My advice is to do your research, list what parts will fit and be compatible together, search for secondhand bargains, do the work yourself and save yourself a small fortune. Using this method, it is definitely worth upgrading your old bike.
HaHa, Mom and Pop bike shop. Where do you live, Portland?
I only upgrade when something breaks. On my 2015 Specialized Diverge, the rear rim cracked in June, I ordered a roval c38 carbon wheelset from specialized, they own Roval. Wheels come in and they don’t fit, send an email to specialized support, then call them, guy says you need to replace the endcaps so I order them immediately, next day different guy emails me to say those wheels won’t fit because you have a SCS frame and we don’t sell anything that will fit your bike, here’s a link to eBay to find parts. I found a new set of SCS compatible wheels up in Oregon from a shop for $950, alloy but at this point I needed wheels and these were drop in place. I like this bike but was disappointed with Specialized’s support and lack of parts for a 5 year old bike that was $3500 new. Kudos to river city cycles and the Hope SCS hubs with Stan’s holy grail rims
There are a number of components to a road bike system, the bike being only one of them, though obviously the most important. If a beginner wants to upgrade, he can start with
(a) bike computer and associated sensors
(b) training/coaching
(c) gym membership for strength training and flexibility classes
(d) sports watch
(e) taking part in a lot more paid events
(f) indoor trainer
(G) strava summit membership
(H) car mount or trailer for bikes
After all of that you can still keep your bike for commutes and winter, while the new racer gets to spin on race day and sundays
Shop around find some good deals ($700) and do the work yourself. That first ride after I upgraded the groupset was a special moment. Everything just works like it should with a noticeable increase in performance. You learn about the components, maintenance. Wheel truing is probably the only thing I would somebody to do. I have a few bikes and that ten-year-old entry-level Trek is still my baby.
You are NOT the average bike consumer. You realize that right?
@@DamascusHarris I know I'm not, but I think I SHOULD be the norm. Bike maintenance isn't as scary as it appears and some things are mandatory to know. Roadside maintenance is a must, change a flat, fix a chain. If you can do those things, you can change your pedals. If you can change your pedals you can change your break pads. If you can change brake pads you can tighten stretched cables. That goes all the way up to upgrading a groupset. I get that not everyone is excited about maintenance but my point is they shouldn't be afraid of it. Over the life of a bike one could easily pay thousands of dollars to have everything little thing done for them. Do a little research and you might find out that you capable of bleeding brakes or replacing bar tape. Spend the savings on beer.
My thoughts: entry level to get you into the sport. Get fit and when you’re starting to do some big hills etc and want that bit more range buy a mid range bike. Then when you’re really getting serious, if the mid range bike is carbon and you like the feel then start buying upgrades be that wheels or groupsets.
I agree 100%. Did the same knowing that my frames were perfect for me. My CAAD 8 has 105s and my Fuji Team has Dura Ace components. I bought my components on sale during Fall season.
Unless you're riding with a very fast racing group, it is very hard to replace the bike with anything better rather than looking for bling. If you think that 11 speeds lend ANYTHING to a bike you're crazy. This all started with 5 speeds. (speaking in a relative time period.) The ratios of the 5 speed were simply too wide for a normal rider. 6 improved it but only for close ratios like a 14-16-17-19-21 Well, normal riders end up pushing a bike uphills. 7 speeds definitely improved things giving you a 25 to climb with. Then the 8 speed came along and it gave you a 14-15-17-19-21-23-25-28 . Now MOST riders that were aficionados could train up to ride a 39-28 up most hills but it took a lot of time to train to that level. Also there was this horrible weakness. An 8 speed freewheel was too long and would too often break. Shimano countered this with a 7 speed and then 8 speed freehub that was mechanically much stronger. An 8 speed cassette was really the cat's meow. It gave you all the gears you needed as long as you weren't a professional racer and a Cat A amateur could ride a 53-14 very fast and most used that top gear. Then along came Lance Armstrong. He needed a closer set of gears for riding in the pack and then he needed a 9th gear so that he didn't have to change bikes to climb hills with a lower gearing. Shimano made that and Campagnolo followed suit. Now THAT was all the gearing that you would ever need. But the manufacturers discovered that when Lance wanted a 9 speed so did everyone else. So they would throw away their 8 speeds and buy an entirely new 9 speed. When they tried that with the 10 speed the same thing happened. Everyone dumped their 9 speeds and bought an entirely new 10 speed group. Now think about this 13-14-15-16-17--19-21-23-25-28 the bottom 6 gears were far too close together for anyone but a very strong amateur or pro racer to even be able to feel a difference. So the way you would ride is by shifting thought the 19-21-23-25-28 on the flats and on down-hills or with string tailwinds you could shift it down into the 13. But that was too high to ride otherwise. Then they made it even worse - 11 speeds and then 12-speeds and discussing 13 and 14. Since the time of the 8 or 9 speeds all you've been getting is components that wear out faster and are no additional benefit to the normal sports rider. Look man, I'm 76 years old and if you're patting yourself on the back because you passed me you're being childish. I'm getting there within minutes of you. Yeah, I have 11 speed Di2 but I KNOW that it isn't of any real benefit except to pro racers. I know that I'm only using half of the gears. I know that my Campy 9 speed shifted better and had enough gears. I actually thought that the 8 speed was the top end for sports riders. Though to make a comment an 8 speed Campy Record or Shimano DuraAce is all hell and gone better than that Chinese Shimano junk Claris group. Since you can now get a Compact Crank (and Compact front derailleur) That would give you all of the climbing gears you could ever want. When you start getting these super low ratios it is easier to spin uphill but the added climbing time pretty much nullifies anything lower than a 34-28. I would love to see them giving you a choice of 8, 9 or 10 speed DuraAce or Campy Record or Chorus. After all, it is only a different ratchet ring inside the shifter.
same with all the oddball wheel sizes- 26 for mtb an d700 for everything else is fine- its about selling bikes- your 3x8 or 3x9 are no good anymore you need 2x 10 or 1x11
Spot on sir, in a nut shell gearing and how it shifts is second to making another sale. The need to sell bikes is more important than the need of whats on that bike!
@@bikeman1x11 from a pure MTB point of view, the differences between 26, 27.5 and 29 are noticeable and they all have there place for different riding. Sure you can ride most things on either of the sizes but the difference between the capability of a 29 wheel Vs a 26 wheel over rough terrain is massive and vice versa riding steep jumps and doing tricks is much more suited to the smaller wheel. Yes I hate different standards as much as anyone else but I do believe having options in wheel sizes is definitely beneficial for MTB.
EDIT - I forgot to mention too how different size wheels can make a massive difference to bike fit for a rider (arguably the most important component). Having the option of sizes means a bike can fit the rider much better proportionally, it doesn't make sense for the same size wheel to be used for someone 5' Vs someone 6'5" when riding the same terrain.
@@samcoffey7317 all marketing sorry
@@bikeman1x11 ok
Very helpful video Thankyou. I was considering upgrading my Boardman sport with Shimano Claris to the 105 and now I have totally changed my mind!
You can change it to Tiagra instead.
Puntoni thank you 😊 I might well do that in the future. Or just go the whole hog and put some vision team 35 wheels on and go 105. The frame on my bike is good and I only paid £400 for it new when it was in the sale. So who knows.
In the video he didn't mention the most important thing, the frame. If you have a frame that fits you perfectly, you love it and you're going to ride it til it falls apart, it's absolutely worth it to upgrade that bike instead of getting a different frame with upgraded components and potentially not liking it as much. I bought a "cheap" $1200 Tiagra bike but it fit me so well, was perfectly comfortable, I upgraded it to R8000 Ultegra and have zero regrets. The frame, and how good it is for you, is the most important component to consider when upgrading.
I generally agree here, you will always get more value from a complete bike. But let's just say a rider on a budget really puts in the miles on their $850 CAAD and wants to make a meaningful upgrade for maybe $300 or so. A nice used wheelset and some clearance priced GP4000S II tires would likely cut at least a pound of rotating mass from the bike. That would actually provide a much more noticeable improvement than 3 extra cogs and the groupset that accompanies them, you can only ride one gear at a time anyway.
Or you could buy a classic racer for a 10th of the price that does exactly the same thing I could never justify spending that much on a bike.
@@ebenbaker1 I would love to find one of these magical $85 bikes of which you speak.
@@bk83082 Just look on gumtree or whatever the american equivalent is
@@ebenbaker1 classic road bikes are kinda terrible by modern standards. the old steel frames are really flexible, threaded forks are generally terrible (heavy/flexible/pain to service), downtube shifters are frankly dangerous and the brakes are pretty much all dangerously underpowered. This is assuming everything is in good working order and has been well maintained and also not so old it predates the use of aluminum 700c wheels.
@@Skooteh just make your legs stronger if I'm riding a bike I want to feel like I'm riding a bike it's not that hard to service a bike yourself you would be surprised how resilient and reliable a bike from the 80's can be.
Great video explanation. I got into cycling a few years ago and I wasn't sure how well I'd like it. A bike-shop owner friend of mine suggested a good hybrid that i could ride for a while and see if I wanted to move into a road bike or not. I got a Cannondale Quick 4 that I really like riding, but I keep getting passed by people on nice road bikes. I'd like to go faster, take longer rides than my typical 20 miles, etc. I thought maybe I could just upgrade gears and a few other components to upgrade toward a "road" bike, but I've heard a few people say it's not worth it. Your detailed explanation and costs really helps. I didn't know that going to the higher gearing requires a different chain, then the different sizes of derailleurs, etc. So, looks like I'm going to be in the market for a nice road bike. And again, thanks to your explanation, I'll avoid buying a lower end bike with the thought of upgrading as I go. I'll invest in something that should last me for a good long while.
Great video! Definitely a clear explanation of what alot of people wouldn't realize in terms of necessary compatibility
New rider. Somebody once told me "get 105, minimum" and i didn't know what they meant at the time, but i did it and am glad i did lo.
Just saying my own opinion. An entry level bike is always something people look down at. I own a specialized Allez sport (CAD1300), and I would love to upgrade it. (*I have already upgraded the wheel to zonda c17 which cost CAD400 btw) The reason why I choose to do so is simply because the frame is good enough itself which I believe I could get more performance from. For the price of upgrading, I come from China, and I am able to get a new (absolutely with no use) full shimano 105 r7000 groupset for CAD450 from Taobao. And I know quite a bit about bike mechanic, which I could have the job done myself. Now if I do what you suggested (with respect), I would have to get a new bike, which in order to feel the real difference, the price would be CAD2000+ (and probably still with a cheap stock wheel). And if I sell the stock bike at my local market, I couldn’t even get CAD400 back (point is nobody wants it-too shabby for racer, too expensive for normal people). And for me, by the time I own a CAD2000+ bike, I would not keep the old one as a CAD2000+ bike is not a true racer that need to be taken good care of, and it could be an everyday bike for me. Compared to having an extra bike for winter, having more living room space seems to be more urgent. At the end of the day, I am not saving much from getting a new bike (remember I could always sell stock parts for money in China, which I could earn far more that having them sold in Canada), and the performance gained from all this work of selling and buying wouldn’t make my cycling more fun, which I could easily get from learning my bike and building it myself. By all what I mean is a decent quality modern entry level frame with upgrades would serve me really well in terms of commuting and club riding. If in the future, I need to race, I would spend CAD5000 and buy a real racer dedicated for racing and competition, by that time, the entry level bike with upgrades would still serve as a backup and decent training friend.
I learned something.
I learned that I got a fantastic deal on my Giant OCR-2 when I bought it in the winter of 2006/07.
That has a Shimano Tiagra nine-speed cassette at the rear, carbon front forks, three chain rings and has done me excellent service for over a decade.
Old to bikes, new to gears... I needed to hear this. I got a cheap used 7spd which is amazing, I am going to ride that as much as I can through the shortage, but I was debating building up from a frameset and looking at some other options. I'm just going to wait and get a 105 bike once stock comes back.
Best advice is learn upgrade it yourself. I upgraded every part of my 105 bike to ultegra myself. Teach yourself how to upgrade simple components so that you don't depend on a shop.
Upgrading from 105 to Ultegra is a total waste of money.
@@djdelarosa25 not really, I upgraded from 105 5800 to Ultegra R8000 and the difference is night and day. Much lighter and much smoother shift change.
@@abu1950 do you think it's possible your 105 just needed to be adjusted?
Yeah, especially if you get a good used bike deal. Newer bikes are easier to work on too.
So a guy who works in a bike shop claims it's too expensive to upgrade so you should just buy the one that's twice the price...hmm. 105 gruppo = €450. Installation = €50 (what my mechanic charges). Removing spacer for 8 speed = free. All in €500.
The hub on the wheel is not going to be compatible with the 11 speed cassette. That's not about spacers. The wheel and hub combo adds about another $220 even if we go with your current pricing . All in $800. Almost as much as you paid for the original bike, assuming your bike shop in only charging $70 (converting currency) to install a groupset (including running cables) wheel hub assembly, bottom bracket install, chain install, etc.
Your install sounds cheap. I'm glad you found someone who will charge you those prices, but I can tell you the prices this guy quoted align with what i see at various shops across Chicago, and probably align with most major metro areas.
This is easily an $800+ conversion to ride what is probably a decent aluminum frame, versus an aluminum frame with carbon forks. I was fortunate. My first bike was stolen. I used the insurance payout to put towards an upgrade (that was in 2008). I recently upgraded again.
it's all about a MOAR bucks. Just bux, bux, bux. He forgot to mention a new bar tape for 50 bucks, duckt tape for 10 bucks, and... just more bucks.
50 euro for a groupset install? He's working for free over there.
@@jessereade5298 that's a one man half an hour job with limited tools and cummunity college degree.
@@feedbackzaloop spoken like someone who no idea what they're talking about. College degree doesn't mean you're smart. Community College has no relevance to a bike shop. You spelled community incorrectly. Thanks for taking my class
Great video. I’m in this exact situation (want to upgrade an 8 speed to an 11). Answered all my questions and a load I didn’t know I should be asking.
I have an old TREK 1000 SL and spent a lot of time thinking about this very question. Every bike shop I went to told me to just buy a new bike, except one. He told me that he always recommends people upgrade their bike because the most important thing is not what components the bike has, but rather that the bike fits you. If you buy a new bike, then you just end up with more components that still don't fit you. Instead, he recommended to spend the money on customizing what I already had. Made a lot of sense to me.
I understand the logic but dont understand why a new bike would not fit you the same or even better. If your being put through a proper fitting which may or may not have been done on the first bike then fit should not be a issue. The purpose of the video was not to tell everyone to buy a new bike. It is more to suggest that putting a large amount of money into and old bike might not be in your best interest.
@@ChrisEnockson I think in many cases, a new bike is the better option, but I think for many people, a bike off the rack will often come with a saddle, crankarm length, stem, chainrings, cassette, handlebars etc. that may not fit you. During a bike fitting, these things are often swapped out for ones that do. As an example, my ideal crankarm length is 165mm, but typically, bikes in my frame size will come with 170mm or longer. If I buy a new bike, I would still need to buy another set of cranks, or a shorter/longer stem, or a comfortable saddle, so I might as well keep what I have and upgrade the parts for a customized fit. Of course if a new bike fits you perfectly straight off the rack, then that would most likely be the best option for you, but if not, then upgrading/customizing may actually be a better choice. Just my two cents :P
My 2012 road bike came with tiagra / 105 mixed groupset. The old tiagra shifters had external cables just like the old Claris, which I always hated, so I just changed the shifters with 105 10 speed for 150 bucks and now it looks way better! You don't really need in my opinion anything more than that unless you are a pro.
Good video, real solid and honest advice. 👍
I usually get this advice about a year after purchase. Finally timely information. Thanks.
Thanks man love from India 🇮🇳 that’s a great video man . I’m going to start this cycling journey soon currently I’m a runner only so I’m looking for entry level road bikes under $1000 and this video told me something I didn’t aware of ...❤️
My $1,250 specialized bike asked me the other day, "Why don't you love me anymore"?
Tell her you love her long time.
@@stanle3833 she knows I do, she just gets jealous when I look at others (bikes). 😆😅
Works both ways, my 1st bike was an aluminum frame trek with 105 5800 group set , I paid like $1,400 for it . Bike was awesome but after a couple years I thought I needed carbon fiber so I upgraded to a $3,000 bike with all the goodies .. and although I love the bike and it rides smooth I dont think it is twice as good as my old one . It kind of makes me realize that aluminum is just as good . Again I love my bike but I'm not sure it's really worth double to get a slightly better group set and carbon fiber
Can relate on a different level. I had a 3 years pause from bike and decided to go for a new mountain bike last spring during Covid. Now since my last mountain bike lasted me for 15 years (more like 12 plus the 3 I wasn't riding it) and since I started to make decent money and since I was a bit depressed by the Covid situation, I just convinced myself that I need that carbon frame XC hardtail bike that is discounted from the equivalent of $3,350 to the equivalent of $2,500. Well, after that half a season of riding, I started to realize I like trail riding and that I probably need a full suspension trail bike instead... Oh and by the way the 12-speed Sram NX Eagle rear derailleur on the new bike just shifts worse than the 9-speed Shimano XT rear derailleur on the old one.
Perfect explanation! I learned this few years ago, glad somebody put it here. It is something everybody ask at some point.
i think alot of road bike riders over estimate how large the Perfomance differrences on upgrates is
This is even more true for mountain bikers.
@@shwndh True! Deore is as good as Deore XTR for the recreational rider at less than 1/4th the price
My first upgrade would be to lose all those reflectors and the plastic “dork disc” behind the cassette.
Haha
Haha I've always wondered what those were.
First time I removed the rear plastic disc I didn't check my low limit screw and the chain dropped between the cassette and the hub: 4 broken spokes, had to pay a shop to replace them as I didn't have a clue. Lesson learned the hard way
the pedals are the biggest
Cheap effective upgrade would be pedals
I rode a CAAD2 for for many years and only recently upgraded to a CAAD13. I ride just as hard, I just appreciate the brakes far more. Upgrade from rim brakes to disc is huge.
Very informative video. Thank you. I currently have a Caad10 and was thinking of purchasing a more capable bike but honestly doubt I’ve got all the potential out of my current bike at my fitness level.
And that's all just mechanical components, hydro shifters/brakes are significantly more than mechanical STI shifters.
Another "upgrade" people often wanted to do when I worked in a shop was to convert their bike from rim brakes to disc brakes. Again, it sounds simple, but it's worth investing in a whole new bike.
On mtbs doing disc on v brake bikes is quite an adventure. Some people do adapters, others weld stuff to the frame. Some leave v brakes in the rear and disc in the front because of a fork change.
Good video. I don't know about road bikes, but in the mountain bike world you CAN put a 11 speed cassette on a 8/9/10 speed freehub. Plenty of videos on it. And for the record I just upgraded my $700 dollar hardtail from 2X9 to 2X10 for less than $300. Did the work myself.
Great advice, thank you !
Own a CAAD12 105, great bike and an excellent value for the money. The shop I bought it at did not even try to sell me an Optimo
this is why vintage road bikes are awesome. no need to change shifters, because lever-style shifters cover a way wider range than you’d ever need.
Levers rock!!
hahahah i needed this video 3 weeks ago, bought a 2010 Specialized Sectuer with rusty bits and hardware, needed new calipers/pads, Shifter was a 2x9 Shimano Sora. And now it has an almost complete Ultegra 6700 10sp groupset with 105 Shifters cause yes they are the most expensive lol and now im trying to sell the bike
Dude thanks for spending your time helping us by making such in formative video.
Hi there, thanks for the video! I’m so glad I didn’t pull the trigger yet. What brand and model do you think is the best value for an upgrade able bike right now in 2023 in your opinion? I’m open to older and used models as well.
You come very close to touching on a point in this video and then I feel deliberately veer away from it. Should you upgrade an eight speed to an eleven speed? Probably not, but you often can upgrade to a ten speed and upgrade half as many parts, and give up on only one speed from what you wanted. I'd compromise one gear to save $400+ every time.
Also all your prices assume someone is buying from a brick and mortar store, and obviously buying online is a lot cheaper. Also you say someone has to be "handy" to install these components, but literally _none_ of them are hard to install or require special tools. Unless you're building a wheel, or replacing a headset or crankset, you really can just do it at home.
If you have the stand and the know how, you probably didn’t buy an entry level bike
“Don’t buy upgrades, ride up grades” as some reasonably good cyclist once said.
-durianrider
@@rodp7803 No, Original quote was from Eddy Merckx
Exactly the reason I went for an entry-level 6KU fixed-gear.
No headaches and tons of fun
I worked in a bike shop too. Exactly the same, upgrade this and that. What is often overlooked, is riding comfortable leads to riding powerful and enduring. Assuming the bike fits the rider, better take investments in in really good bibs, cycling shoes, jackets and so on. Good bibs can make all the difference, when it comes to saddle sores. And i love my Gore Paclite Jacket. Makes riding even in miserable weather fun, because you're warm and comfortable.
Well put
@@ChrisEnockson Thanks!
nah, I've just looked , you can get a full shimano 105 groupset and mavic askium wheelset for $640, people do your research and get a local bike mechanic who has an eye for attention to detail and you can save a ton of money.
Exactly. When your lbs charges full retail for components PLUS a 150 bucks premium to put it on the bike find another one or learn how to do it yourself.
@@aldertprast939 retail is the price of the part. 150 is the price of labor. not a "premiu"
@@Matt-ou7xm the mechanic clearly overcharges for work/is slow as anything, for me to swap shifters, brakes cassette, chain set, wheels and set it all up wouldn't take any more than maybe 45 mins at a push, if it involved building the wheels or the suffering involved with tubeless setups then the 150 would be justified but no idea how that would take him 3 hours to do if not
Also, when upgrading you want to mantain and reuse as much of the old parts as you can. If your wheels only allow for up to 10 speed, go for 10 speed, you are coming from 8, do you really need 11 anyway?
Oh you do? Okay, buy an 11 speed rear hub body and swap the body on your rear wheel so you can mount the cassette. You don't know how? LEARN.
Your rear hub is not compatible with 11 speed hubs? Get a new 11 speed rear hub and reconstruct the wheel with it, don't know how to assemble a wheel? LEARN.
The more work you save assambling a bike, the more you have to pay for it.
Assambling a bicycle is not hard. Yes you do need a few specific tools and general use tools but you want to have those anyway. And you learn so much in the process, your newly adquiered knowledge will translate into a bake that is always tuned, clean, in good working order and that wears less
This helps because im looking at getting a road bike
I'm not sure why TH-cam recommended this video to me but I was pleasantly surprised to see the Mill Race tags on the bike. I thought that shop looked familiar. My bike has been on that very bike stand.
Make it a great ride!
Upgraded my used 2011 road bike I used in college for getting around town and general road riding from whatever shimano group to a 11 speed 105/Ultegra group set for $290 and every part I bought was new take off parts or in the box. Got 105 shifters for $60, front and rear Ultegra derailleur for $55, 105 cranks for $50, BB for $15, Mavic Cosmic Elite UST wheels with tire and 11speed Ultegra cassette for $110 and just used the old brakes. Not bad imo and much of the parts were somewhat worn, had $300 to spend because the stock Oval wheels, tires and cassette got stolen and insurance company cut me a check for replacement value. Made a great improvement in the ride and when I’m out of school I can easily buy a used carbon frame and put the old parts to put back on the bike and use as a commuter or give to a friend. I do agree that new bikes should have at least a 11 speed 105 group set when purchased though.
had my bike 30 years, only ever replaced tyres, brakes and one wheel. Do about 50 miles a week.
That’s really cool. May I ask what bike is it?
@@KunaevNS Raliegh Titanium, still going strong, twist grip gears have never failed or needed adjusted, and is lighter than all but the most expensive modern bikes at just over 11kg. Although rim brakes probably not as good as they once was.
Uhh pretty sure that drivetrain is gonna look like Toothless
@@guantou2520 Nice! Kudos on not giving to all the new bike hype for all these years. Old technology is often the answer. Keep on riding!
Buy once, cry once.
Cheap man always pays twice.
HaHa. 105 costs less and lasts longer. Good alloy frame lighter and more durable
Ignorant man, who doesn't know what he is paying for and lets the seller decide for him pays triple.
n+1......means buy x and cry forever
cries twice 😢 😭
You go for the best you can afford
I used to want expensive bikes till I got myself a $200 used sport hybrid and I absolutely love it. More than happy with its performance don’t see a need for high end bikes
Great job with this clip. You are spot on.
Thanks
I bought a bike with the same spec as that Cannondale around 2014. I upgraded it to 11sp 105 a couple of years later with mid-range alloy rims and it cost me less than a quarter of what you quoted. Sadly component prices have gone through the roof since so now it’s uneconomical to buy an entry level bike and upgrade it as you progress. Leads to more waste and more entry level bikes like this in dumps a few years down the line. Sad really.
900 dollars is entry level? Jeeezus that’s more than my car.
Not even, if you go by the bigger name cycling channels / websites. Watched one on an "entry level" gravel bike and it was $1800 USD.
In my country you can't get a road bike under 1500€
@@okmies2113 where are you bro?
@@zpm3887 probably in germany, judging by his profile name.
@@okmies2113 what about decathlon?
On my merida ride 100 I replaced:
-the system (cassette, chain, rear and front derailleur, crank, pedals, BB, brakes)
-of course cables
-the wheels
-the stem
-the saddle
-the seat post
-bar tape
Now I'm looking at cinelli frame :)
My bikes are already expensive. I just upgrade my wheelset. Went up to DT SWISS. I love that hub!
I got an 11-speed, then my friend shows me his 12-speed... great now i want a 12 speed
facts
Doesnt matter how many speeds you have, but the max gear ratio and your physical fitness.
@@noonehere4332 that's my problem, physical fitness haha jk I just mean to say that that's how I felt when my friend upgraded his bike initially
Show you friend this and you can cry together: road.cc/content/tech-news/campagnolo-launch-ekar-13-speed-gravel-groupset-275995
upgrade your fitness not your bikes 🙄
Best upgrade: replace stock tyres with something decent. Spend £50/$60 and you’ll definitely feel the difference in comfort and speed compared to the crappy ones low and mid range new bikes ship with. TBH I don’t really see the benefit of changing from 8 speed unless you’re into TTs or properly racing.
This is a good video. Thanks for very clear and reasonable explanation. Your video is way better than my bike shop guys who just look at me really funny and talk really down grading. I rather buy bike from you.
I was about to say you also needed a new BB, but then you mentioned it...
I am so glad I bought a 105-level bike.
You don't have to change the wheels cannondale sell 8 speed bikes with 11 speed freehubs with a spacer. They're ALL 130mm spacing.
And even if it were a 8 speed feehub- you could probably change just the freehub.
That is true, but unfortunately that's only 1 problem solved 🙁
The wheel dish may not be centered for an 11 speed hub. You could put a 11 speed freehub on an 8 speed wheel but the rim and tire will be over centered to the left..
Recently I just upgraded my bike.
I got a Vision 30 tubeless-ready wheelset with 11speed hub from Rose for 150 EUR.
I thought about just changing the freehub. Maybe good that I didn't try it.
Anyway, I still think what the guy in the video is saying is utter nonsense. Only few things in life are more satisfying than upgrading a bike you came to like.
Except maybe riding up grades :D
@@drfusioncraft no need to change dish of wheels with this. 8 speed on 11 speed freehub just works fine with spacers. Shimano 11-34 11-speed road cassettes are designed to work on 10 speed HG freehubs (which basically is 11-speed MTB HG) This video is bullshitting around. There are issues of compatibility out there in the real world, but if you need to replace it's worth considering to upgrade.
Trust a bike shop worker to tell you to buy a new bike lol. Upgrading is cheaper if you get used or even new, doing the work yourself is really easy despite what this "expert" may say
yeah LBS workers are con artists, mine sells grips that are 2gbp on amazon for 18
and this guy sells a bike with 2x10 and plastic pedals for 850... you can buy a better bike in walmart now for less... you can even get an mtb with full discs and a dropper post for less.
@@iamkyleme Second hand market too is great for a starter bike. At the end of 2018 I bought a 2003 giant 2x10, freshly serviced with all new cables for £220. did over 5,000 miles on it in 2019 and still going strong. Finally looking to upgrade, now I know that I will be sticking with biking.
Exactly, I upgrade every part myself and let a guy at the decathlon shop look at the complex parts rather than having shop guys install everything. It will save you loads of money. Another weird thing is most shops can't even install ultegra r8000 as they are scared of the components. One guy told me he has never installed a front derailleur like this. In the end I did it myself.
@@iamkyleme which walmart bike?
@@Matt-ou7xm go on their website and look at the 500usd price bracket bikes.
Same applies to mountain bikes as well. If I were to put similar components that I have on my $1900 CAD trail bike on my $500 entry level XC bike, it would probably cost $800 CAD in parts to get a similar spec. Probably another 100 or more to get it installed at a shop (but I'd do it myself).
I've personally only sunk around $100 in upgrades. Mostly wider bars, shorter stem. also, new pedals.
I've been looking at getting a road bike, and this has been very useful, thanks! I guess the saying still holds true - buy cheap, buy twice, even if the cheap option is still a good machine.
Very good video and thank you for posting this sort of informative video. I have been biking and coaching for way too long and I always recommend people to buy at least Shimano 105 if possible. Anything below that will make you spend more money over time and underperform for a long time. Like anything you have to pay to play specially when you are investing in a toy that will enhance your health and lifestyle. Do not kill the messenger because it is not up to Chris( I do not know Chris) to come with the bike/component pricing(that is set up by bike manufacturers). Bike stores really do not have huge profit margins on the bikes as you may think.
I bought a 2019 Tarmac with 105 a year ago. I’ve got into cycling much more now and am upgrading the wheels to Roval cl50s. I can see the next upgrade being to Ultegra di2 or something but am wondering if the frame is suitable or I should just skip the wheels and di2 and wait to buy another higher spec bike?
The frame is all carbon and disc brake so I presumed it would be future proof and worthy of upgrades?
Disagree. I think that people that really start to get into it should then buy another bike and use the old one as a winter bike. Otherwise you end up wrecking your good bike.
I just bought a shimano thiagra did I fuck up and why? What costs are coming my way?
@@purplefabian 10 speed is as good as 11 speed. Worry more about how comfortable the seats and the frame are, how well the brakes can stop, how well you are positioning on your bike, etc. Also, like everyone says, best upgrades are to your legs. A few years down the line when you need to service the Tiagra parts themselves it'd probably only be $300 to upgrade the shifters and derailleurs to 105.
If your wheel hubs are not 11-speed compatible though, you'd best return the bike.
@@syrus3k Interestingly, thats exactly what I did. Old 9 speed bike is on the trainer. My Carbon Cannondale Synpase Ultegra is my main road bike.
Just ride the bloody thing! I've raced and ridden bikes of all catergories since the 1980,s including top end team bikes .As most of us just "Cafe race" any reason able bike will do the job,learn what your best ratios are and ride to your cadence
And buy good tires!
Something I did: I took my 12 speed steel Schwinn traveler, and I bought an aluminum frame Scott with 105 components off of Facebook marketplace, very cheap The Scott was obviously totaled, cracks in the frame galore. For $200 bucks I had controls, crank, chain, and wheels. I took both bikes to a shop and demanded a Frankenstein be born. $150 later I had an 21 speed steel frame with shamino 105s. $350 bucks for used parts and a major overall was a fantastic start for this beginner. I can keep up with all the carbon bikes on B and B- rides no problem.
Brought new steel framed average peugeot in 1998. I've upgraded from 7 to 9 speed. Was shimano 300 ex, now its campy veloce 9 speed. Still going strong every week. Doesn't matter what you own youve still got to pedal it.