Fixing a ripped leaking CV Axle Boot
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 ก.ย. 2024
- I'm not sure how this happened but it was time for shoe Goo Glue to be put to test and see how well it holds up
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cleaned mine with laquer thinner and used silicone and it lasted forever!
What kind silicone?
silicone? no way ordinary silicone is gonna adhere nor have the strength needed for this bro
@@skip741x3 it works.. RTV high temp silicone.
How did it hold up?
It should have worked with a hole that small. The Shoe Goo melts the rubber and sets really quickly. The video looks like you're working it too much. I've had long term success with it in the past.. Oh well. Thanks for posting
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I had some high temp red silicone that I put on the tread of a tire just to see how long it would stay. And the part that touched the road wore off but the part that was on the low area would not come off. This might work for a cv repair if the area was cleaned well. Just my thoughts. 🤔
I often wonder how those boots last, spinning thousands of times, in the coldest and hottest weather. They should use tire technology, and embed thin wires or Teflon in the rubber, to act as “rebar” does in concrete to improve strength.
Was thinking the same thing.
permatex gasket maker ultra black worked for me to patch the hole. just want to share.
Thanks man
Let us know how long this works for you please@
its still there. no leaking grease. mine is just a small puncture mark from a wire. i drive the car 40 miles to work one way, 4 times weekly. its been 3 weeks now. your situation might be different. I used gasketmaker because its what i have at that moment.
Update please!
I used the Dorman split boot kit that came with Loctite 401. Do you think the Permatex would work to reinforce the seams if applied to the outside ?
I used flex tape
Silicone worked on my repair hyundai excel cv boots was throwing grease into the wheel. Cleaned with methylated spirits and ran a thick bead over the tear and then covered the shit out of the join . Like a fishplate so if it were to stretch there is a lot more body for flex ! Temp fix but still for now as long as it holds. 2 weeks still good.let dry 24 hrs if possible
Any follow up on how long this lasted? You used just regular, standard silicone?
@@bjulienem well it still is hanging on.
@@bjulienem acetic cure dries quickly and stronger than neutral cure! Good luck! Cheers!
You don’t have to replace the whole axel you can also do a reboot and re grease. With loosing as much grease as you did that’s what you should have done to fix the issues instead of just patching it. Something is better than nothing tho…
Is this possible for rotating parts or propeller shaft boot what meterial using
Mine ripped I had to replace it
Trying flex seal spray tonight... gonna see what it does
Let me know actually
How did that work for you lol
@@willfreethemfreethem7671 the cv axles work still lol
So the flex seal worked?
More specific please.... we need details!
Just buy a new axle
Awesome video that was a great idea. unfortunately, I wasn't aware of CV boots getting a puncher from road hazard. I thought they just got hard and dry from the heat.
+Joe De Jesus my truck only has 5k miles I think it was damaged by tool at shop
Replace with one of those split boots.
Cut the music, better without it.
Which glue u used
Break out the plasti dip.lol
Split CV replacement boots are readily available and without removing anything
Split boots are junk honestly
Where do they sell sit boots? Havent ever heard of them being an option. Also, wHY are they "junk"?
@@FixItNick Mines been on a year and still fine ....if fitted correctly then NO problems
@@bjulienem Ebay
@@bjulienem they arent junk... theres just poor install thats given them that rep....Ive used split boots many times, usually the dorman brand which are in 2 halves. the dorman ones are very stiff and its usually Not the rubber which ever tears as they age... Rather ,its the seams that can let go and if that happens its always becuz there was a bit of grease or dirt in the seam that prevented the joint from having full strength... From what ive seen, once that glue does its magic, and its Not regular super glue, its a special type that literally starts to partiall melt and fuse the rubber halves into a one piece bond....if you do the bond with absolutely clean surfaces, its permanent and uber strong...The hardest part is getting every prepped, hospital clean and Not having a spec of grease get into ur halves b4 they are merged together...unedr a car, with all the grease and crap thats there, its so easy to have a seam touch a bit of grease,u put it together and a few months later its started to let go in that spot...people who give these bad reviews are those who did not keep the seam sterile...its a Real pain in the neck to do, nerve wreaking and tedious but it beats pulling the axle and if u do it right these will last 5yrs or more...the rubber tself is better than factory as long as you get a good clean bond at the seams...
whats the name of the sealant
Did this fix hold up for a long time?
No I didn’t, a different glue might work better.
I can’t believe you thought this would work. Axles spin tens of thousands of times a drive. Also, the centrifugal force alone would have undone it.
Yea it was a mistake didn’t work bought new one lol
They sell cv boots open, to put in place and to glue all along the line. If that works I can not see why it is not possible to glue a small cut with the same glue.
The repair probably worked, But the grease had already evacuated. Can you confirm @fixitnick ? Im debating of injecting more grease into mine and repairing the hole
He probrobly doesnt know.
@@FixItNick 😂
Did it work?
It failed later and I just bought used one not ripped
For 2 days max
That is very interesting, I just finished replacing my CV boot on a silverado that had the same puncher on the passenger side and was looking on how to tighten that clamp. It is $75 at the dealer. Could not find an aftermarket at the local shops
That clamp is weird it's like spit welded, I think it's a money grab so you buy more than you need?
Its a swage tool that is needed. Kentmoore specialty tool one made for the model as they are all sizes. Just toss it and put a standard ear clamp on that fits well.
Will do cheers😊
I wonder if flex seal would work better
Nah lol
LMAO The Flex seal spray, No.
The Flex seal tape, definitely.
And the tape is too thick...but theres no way that tape will ever come off... ever!
I tried silicone I'll see if it works
Let me know, I wonder if rubber cement for tires would work I’d clean and prep area well
@@FixItNick for tyres i took a chunk of rubber out . Not the thread just rubber on sidewall on my Toyota hilux 4wd 31×10.5 size. I scuffed and clean with metho and ised sikaflex as i used to be a glazier aluminum joiner i have a fair bit lying around. Only problem black sika is not uv rated and it did crack a bit around the repair.if you do use it make sure you put enough so it oozes out and put pressure on the sidewall. Not recommended but its very strong and flexible. Silicone is too weak. Btw i did a lot of driving and still holding on.
@@FixItNick chunk of rubber was from hitting a gutter at around 60 kmh. Cheers!😊
Can you solder it ? Mine is a tear but touching
I’m not sure honestly
I tried soldering iron and I wouldn't do it again. Just burnt rubber no fusing action
Are you serious?
Solder is for metal, the rubber the boot is made of and that needs repair will MELT. Come on guy
I wonder if gasket maker over the area would work
did not work for me
Did flex seal work
Yeah, anyone know??
Did you put new grease inside before sealing it? Tnx sir
No I didn’t, not much escaped, but glue didn’t hold long
Definitely add a little is smart. Must be cv rated grease.
What is that glue ? Is it contact adhesive?
Started leaking again, I’d try maybe some other glue that’s flexible for rubber
@@FixItNick hey mate just wanted to update you on the silicone on the boot trick. Make sure you turn it full lock so its at the worst as in opening , then get metho, or rubbing alcohol, i used electronic contact cleaner just cos i had some . Really clean it well so dry as a bone if its just a split like mine , cheap 5 buck silicone worked great ! Checked 10 mins ago and dry as a bone . Just let it cure for at least 24 hrs and ont spare it . I ran the silicone down the split in a straight line then in a swirling motion a nd basically covered half the boot as it had little cracks etc. If you want to dry quicker use acetic cure silicone . It smells like vinegar but touch dry in 10 mins . I used a 1200 watt hairdryer as i dont have a heat gun just warm it a bit at a time! Cheers i hope i explained it properly. If you have any questions send a message. Have a great day from Australia 😊
Hey aussie guy. How did that end up working out? Did it just peel off eventually?
@@bjulienem still good .
@@dragan3290 beautiful, im going to do that right now with mine.
Update? Did it hold? Just found a small hole in my cv boot. Thanks.
Negative, I ended up replacing my axle my friend had a spare
th-cam.com/video/AxssEgUxmZA/w-d-xo.html
I think it's because shoe-goo, even though it's pretty damn tough and lasts (I use it all the time, especially on shoes... haha), is not designed to stand up to road issues and more specifically the constant flexing. I just used black silicone on my leaking boot (several pin-holes). Because of the material, I think it has a much better chance of holding due to its flexibility.
We'll see....
Jake Jones update on the silicone, I put a bike patch on mine to see if it holds up but if not I will try that silicone if it worked for you.
Sorry for the response delay. I have been so busy with other (bigger) issues on the vehicle that I have not had time to complete the boot sealing. But what I CAN tell you is there were multiple leaks, and even though I was only able to seal about half of them, so far so good!
Hope this helps.
@@jakejones5736 the bike patches on mine failed and pulled the small tear in the boot to a bigger one so my boot is totaled . I still don't know why it failed in the first place but good news, I'm Getting a replacement axle since it's covered under warranty and it failed prematurely.