This is the process that works for me and I've stained and sold thousands of pieces! I liberally, but thoughtfully apply the stain and make sure I'm not letting it pool on the surface or leave more than the wood can absorb. Yes, those would result in a sticky mess. You can certainly wipe away the excess for a lighter color/shorter cure time or to do more coats. Thanks for watching! 😊
This video is my inspiration video for my first staining project!! Thank you for putting this out, otherwise I wouldn’t have been brave enough to lay it on thick (but not too thick)
I hope it works out well! Some people might disagree with my thick coats, but it works for me! Just make sure to let it fully cure until it's no longer sticky to the touch before you seal it (which might take a few days especially in humid weather).
It's kind of like using sandpaper without the abrasiveness. Since I use paper towels to stain with, the paper bag helps remove any small pieces of lint before I seal it. After sealing, rubbing with a softened paper bag helps remove any leftover subtle texture without damaging the finish.
I'm glad I didn't go ahead with my pine staining project before discovering this video! I noticed a few things about pine that didn't seem "cooperative" to getting a pleasing finish. You addressed those items very well and at "my level." Thank you!
very nice results. at 5:20 you say you let the stain dry for 2 days, but did you wipe it off first as they recommend on the can? if so, how long after applying the stain did you wipe it off?
I break the rules and I don't wipe after applying. But after several years of frequent staining, I have it down to a science of how much I can apply without wiping. It's risky business, but it works for me. I would suggest lightly wiping the excess after 5-10 minutes. You just don't want a lot of stain sitting/pooling on the surface. A little extra will "dry" with enough time at room temperature (above 60 degrees).
A simple and easy to understand explanation, just what every beginner needs. Thank you! I bought a product that is supposedly a stain and finish in one, we will see how it turns out.
I'm not sure what the rules say but I do it all the time! You just have to make sure the stain is 100% dried. I give it at least a full 24 hours to dry at room temp before polying, maybe a little longer in cold weather or high humidity.
Wow, so much time spent per piece, how do you store all this stuff while waiting for it to dry?? Amazing! Also, I've been pronouncing it "Jake-o- bean" forever. 😂 great video, Katie!
Lol I'm glad I'm not alone! I have an odd setup where I have two separate tiny spaces in my basement, so they can sit undisturbed and free of dust while they cure.
That's a good question! I've never used a planer and don't own one, but I think it might still need a light sanding if the planer leaves behind any marks.
Thanks! No I haven't tried that, is that a wipe on finish after the stain? Brushing is very time consuming for me, would love to try something more efficient.
@@davidchait6010 Yes, but you can tinker with the amount of shellac. I first heard of it many years ago on the Furniture to Go. It is a 5:1 mix of denatured alcohol to shellac. You can also use it between coats of stain to build depth. They wrote a book that contains great information that sells used for around $5. There is also a finnish one by the one they did the most with wood for about the same price. I have both.
Thanks for the video! I'm putting some stained pine shelves in our bathroom. Can I use Varathane Spar Urethane oil based outdoor? My goal is to keep it from molding and mildew. Plus, I'd figure outdoor would be more durable.
Good question! The only time I have used Spar Urethane is on an indoor plant stand that could get exposed to moisture and it worked well for that project. It just might yellow over time compared to the water based poly. I used a dark stain and haven’t noticed any yellowing on mine.
I have a little bit! Sometimes I use it for larger voids but I don't always love how it looks once it's stained. It's definitely useful for the right application.
Do you get similar results with a lighter brown? I'm wondering if this looks so good because it hides the splotching going on underneath. Have an awful time with light brown stain not splotching like crazy. so yeah, any success with a lighter, antique brown?
Yes! I get good results across all colors/tones with the common #2 pine, WELL sanded up to 150 grit. Special Walnut + Weathered Oak is my favorite combo to use which is a much lighter brown. Premium pine is extremely finicky and I avoid it at all costs. I'd rather deal with knots than splotchy stain.
@@carpenterkatieco 1. weathered oak first, let dry, then special walnut? 2. I love that you ignored the wipe-off recommendation/instructions that all stains come with and did your own thang. Looks so good. 3. I've been experimenting with all kinds of stains, shellac, dyes, tinting shellac, tung oil blah blah blah. Using poly as a wood conditioner, japanese wood burning....you name it. Your video helped me so much, I subscribed (rare for me these days). Thank you so much and please let me know the staining order as per my first question, if you would be so kind. 4. You rock ✊🏼 😊
thank you!! For the stain combos, I always mix them first then apply. I do either 1:1 SW:WO or 1:2 for a lighter color, kind of a poor man’s white oak.
The finish is so beautiful! Seeing how you let the conditioner sit and how generous you were with the stain, I'm hoping will make a difference in my project. I'm staining my railing/stringers a darker color to match our new flooring and I keep getting blotchiness; but I also didn't out a lot of conditioner or let the stain sit. So hopefully that alone will correct it. Quick question - do you have a preference/suggest using liquid stain over gel stain when it comes to pine? Or does it depend on the project?
So sorry for the delay! You might want to do a bit more sanding if you're still struggling with blotches. The heavy-handed stain won't necessarily cover them up. It's usually something deeper in the wood, but sometimes more sanding can help. I definitely prefer the oil-based liquid stain (Minwax yellow can) over gel. I haven't had luck with gel in the past, it didn't apply evenly for me and was very gloopy (maybe I had a bad batch?).
🤣🤣 I like a richer color especially on pine and I just don't have the patience for multiple coats plus sanding. I wrote my own instructions, but you still have to be cautious because it can get sticky. Thanks for watching!
I'm very intrigued! I've used leather dye for a fun project and it worked great. I love the applicators and it comes in so many colors. I would love to explore more for future projects/products. Would be wonderful to get away from oil based stain and fumes.
Great video, well explained .finally foud how to stain pine. Keep up the good work.fanks 4 shareing
I'm glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!
Hey! Thanks for the demonstration. Great to see a new video from you.
Thanks for watching!
I'm going to try your techniques. Very beautiful finish.
Good luck with your project! I hope it turns out great
I'm glad that someone else uses the paper bag trick! My father, who was a master wood carver, did this, and taught it to me for carpentry.
That's so cool! I learned it from someone else along the way and it's been extremely useful.
Hi Katie great vid and very well explained 😁
Thank you so much! 😊
This is exactly what I needed thank you!
I hope it helped! Good luck with your project!
I always thought you had to wipe off any excess stain after letting it sit for a few minutes.?
You do, or it turns into a sticky mess.
This is the process that works for me and I've stained and sold thousands of pieces! I liberally, but thoughtfully apply the stain and make sure I'm not letting it pool on the surface or leave more than the wood can absorb. Yes, those would result in a sticky mess. You can certainly wipe away the excess for a lighter color/shorter cure time or to do more coats. Thanks for watching! 😊
I think you have to wipe away oil based stains, but water based evaporates.
@@rosek.584she’s definitely working with an oil based stain here though
so, no wipe off is an option. cool!
This video is my inspiration video for my first staining project!! Thank you for putting this out, otherwise I wouldn’t have been brave enough to lay it on thick (but not too thick)
I hope it works out well! Some people might disagree with my thick coats, but it works for me! Just make sure to let it fully cure until it's no longer sticky to the touch before you seal it (which might take a few days especially in humid weather).
I have never seen the paper bag trick. Great idea!
That's my favorite trick I picked up along the way. It works so well!
I don’t quite understand what the paper bag does. Does it remove excess stain? Or is it to change the texture of the wood?
It's kind of like using sandpaper without the abrasiveness. Since I use paper towels to stain with, the paper bag helps remove any small pieces of lint before I seal it. After sealing, rubbing with a softened paper bag helps remove any leftover subtle texture without damaging the finish.
I'm glad I didn't go ahead with my pine staining project before discovering this video! I noticed a few things about pine that didn't seem "cooperative" to getting a pleasing finish. You addressed those items very well and at "my level." Thank you!
Great! I'm so glad the video was helpful. Thanks for watching!
Excellent content. Thank you Katie!
Thank you so much!
very nice results. at 5:20 you say you let the stain dry for 2 days, but did you wipe it off first as they recommend on the can? if so, how long after applying the stain did you wipe it off?
I break the rules and I don't wipe after applying. But after several years of frequent staining, I have it down to a science of how much I can apply without wiping. It's risky business, but it works for me.
I would suggest lightly wiping the excess after 5-10 minutes. You just don't want a lot of stain sitting/pooling on the surface. A little extra will "dry" with enough time at room temperature (above 60 degrees).
A simple and easy to understand explanation, just what every beginner needs. Thank you! I bought a product that is supposedly a stain and finish in one, we will see how it turns out.
Good luck with your project!
Awesome video
Thanks!
Thanks for the nice video. My question is can water base poly apply onto the top of oil base stain?
I'm not sure what the rules say but I do it all the time! You just have to make sure the stain is 100% dried. I give it at least a full 24 hours to dry at room temp before polying, maybe a little longer in cold weather or high humidity.
Wow, so much time spent per piece, how do you store all this stuff while waiting for it to dry?? Amazing! Also, I've been pronouncing it "Jake-o- bean" forever. 😂 great video, Katie!
Lol I'm glad I'm not alone! I have an odd setup where I have two separate tiny spaces in my basement, so they can sit undisturbed and free of dust while they cure.
Can we just run it through a planer, wipe off the dust then stain it right after it ? Would that give a nice finish and avoid sanding?
That's a good question! I've never used a planer and don't own one, but I think it might still need a light sanding if the planer leaves behind any marks.
Those turned out rich. Have you ever tried shellac thinned with denatured alcohol to seal your wood?
I am pretty certain that is what the off the shelf conditioner is, it seals most of the pores to avoid bloching.
Thanks! No I haven't tried that, is that a wipe on finish after the stain? Brushing is very time consuming for me, would love to try something more efficient.
@@davidchait6010 Yes, but you can tinker with the amount of shellac. I first heard of it many years ago on the Furniture to Go. It is a 5:1 mix of denatured alcohol to shellac. You can also use it between coats of stain to build depth. They wrote a book that contains great information that sells used for around $5. There is also a finnish one by the one they did the most with wood for about the same price. I have both.
Thanks for the video! I'm putting some stained pine shelves in our bathroom. Can I use Varathane Spar Urethane oil based outdoor? My goal is to keep it from molding and mildew. Plus, I'd figure outdoor would be more durable.
Good question! The only time I have used Spar Urethane is on an indoor plant stand that could get exposed to moisture and it worked well for that project. It just might yellow over time compared to the water based poly. I used a dark stain and haven’t noticed any yellowing on mine.
"Jackob Bean" 😀. Not sure why I'm laughing I'd probably have done the same.
I still slip up lol 😂
Have you experimented with using the pine dust as your filler instead of Goodfilla?
I have a little bit! Sometimes I use it for larger voids but I don't always love how it looks once it's stained. It's definitely useful for the right application.
Do you get similar results with a lighter brown? I'm wondering if this looks so good because it hides the splotching going on underneath. Have an awful time with light brown stain not splotching like crazy. so yeah, any success with a lighter, antique brown?
Yes! I get good results across all colors/tones with the common #2 pine, WELL sanded up to 150 grit. Special Walnut + Weathered Oak is my favorite combo to use which is a much lighter brown.
Premium pine is extremely finicky and I avoid it at all costs. I'd rather deal with knots than splotchy stain.
@@carpenterkatieco
1. weathered oak first, let dry, then special walnut?
2. I love that you ignored the wipe-off recommendation/instructions that all stains come with and did your own thang. Looks so good.
3. I've been experimenting with all kinds of stains, shellac, dyes, tinting shellac, tung oil blah blah blah. Using poly as a wood conditioner, japanese wood burning....you name it. Your video helped me so much, I subscribed (rare for me these days). Thank you so much and please let me know the staining order as per my first question, if you would be so kind.
4. You rock ✊🏼
😊
thank you!! For the stain combos, I always mix them first then apply. I do either 1:1 SW:WO or 1:2 for a lighter color, kind of a poor man’s white oak.
@@carpenterkatieco thank you!!
Interesting !
I'm glad you like the video!
Indeed it is gorgeous.Please can you make a comparison of commonly used stains like shellac,Danish oil and ordinary bees wax.
Great idea! I'll add it to the list.
The finish is so beautiful! Seeing how you let the conditioner sit and how generous you were with the stain, I'm hoping will make a difference in my project. I'm staining my railing/stringers a darker color to match our new flooring and I keep getting blotchiness; but I also didn't out a lot of conditioner or let the stain sit. So hopefully that alone will correct it.
Quick question - do you have a preference/suggest using liquid stain over gel stain when it comes to pine? Or does it depend on the project?
So sorry for the delay! You might want to do a bit more sanding if you're still struggling with blotches. The heavy-handed stain won't necessarily cover them up. It's usually something deeper in the wood, but sometimes more sanding can help.
I definitely prefer the oil-based liquid stain (Minwax yellow can) over gel. I haven't had luck with gel in the past, it didn't apply evenly for me and was very gloopy (maybe I had a bad batch?).
In England we pronounce Jacobean, ' jack-o-bee-un '
Hehe thank you, I've since learned the proper pronunciation but I still have to remind myself 🤣
I feel like that's how it should be pronounced and might even be a reference to that era in England.
Huh. So don't follow instructions on the can. Which makes you use more product. (Wipe off after 3 minutes and throw it garbage)
🤣🤣 I like a richer color especially on pine and I just don't have the patience for multiple coats plus sanding. I wrote my own instructions, but you still have to be cautious because it can get sticky. Thanks for watching!
It is called a step by step video and it ends abruptly without parting much knowledge. Not recommending :-(
With all due respect, I never asked for your recommendation 🙂
Colin Knecht of WoodWorkWeb has become a fan of dyes instead of stains. What are your thoughts? Have you tried?
I'm very intrigued! I've used leather dye for a fun project and it worked great. I love the applicators and it comes in so many colors. I would love to explore more for future projects/products. Would be wonderful to get away from oil based stain and fumes.