*Support what we do at* KMTools.com *Best Sandpaper Test Ever Done* th-cam.com/video/NZDCRFi8dKY/w-d-xo.htmlsi=SYsELZFwlSMD6tWW *3M Cubitron Film/Net Sandpaper AND Sample Packs* kmtools.com/collections/sanding-and-finishing-1 *Soft Foam Sanding Pad* kmtools.com/products/3m%E2%84%A2-clean-sanding-soft-interface-disc-pad-5-6 *Scotch Brite Hook and Loop 3 Pack* kmtools.com/products/scotch-brite%E2%84%A2-hookit%E2%84%A2-7447-pro-disc-3-pack *Yellow Hand Sanding Pad* kmtools.com/products/5-hand-sanding-disc-pad-with-velcro *Non-Slip Pad for Finishing* kmtools.com/products/24-x-48-non-slip-pad-for-finishing-router-work-holding *Hook-it Sanding Pad Hook Saver* kmtools.com/products/3m%E2%84%A2-hookit%E2%84%A2-clean-sanding-disc-pad-hook-saver *The Katz-Moses Woodworkers with Disabilities Fund ABOUT* kmtools.com/pages/kmww-charity
Thanks for the detail on the pencil sanding tip! Truth be told proper standing takes twice as long as most people think. Patience is key. I’m still learning that one. Great video Jonathan!
A local body shop gives me their old sandpaper in 55 gal drums. Back at the shop we put on our dust masks and go through and sort it all. OMG those guys waste some awesome sandpaper!! I usually recover about 40 gal barrel of great 3M Cubitrton and have not bought sandpaper in years. Ask if you can "Help" them dispose of it. Pro tip- pick up the drums near lunch and take them pizza, etc. and the quality of the thrown out sheets increases over time lol.
Thank you very much for the sanding tips. Nobody likes to do it and perhaps we try to hurry through it. I've been guilty of that and nearly ruined a project. The tips you gave us should actually save time and I appreciate it greatly. I'm actually looking forward to sanding my next project thanks to you Jonathan! Thank you again 😊. 😊😊😊😊😊❤❤❤❤❤
I have the Bosch vacuum and it’s a great addition to my shop. Can’t speak enough about how great it works. I’m on year 3 of ownership and have had no problems.
Everyone I know that owns one of those Bosch vacs cant seem to speak highly enough about it. Obviously expensive but I’m convinced I’ll get one in the future.
@@moldyzucchinis3251 I in no way am associated with Bosch, this comes from someone who does wainscoting and trim for a living. Best addition I’ve made and the quality of my wood comes out night and day for paint prep because of it. I debated about getting the Festool, which I’m still not opposed to. However, I have the Bosch orbital sander. The ergonomics are great on the hands. They have a dampening pad on it that attracted me to the product, so I wanted to have the same brand of vacuum. Anyways, I hope this helps. Good luck in woodworking.
Lol I had to skim the video for what you were talking about and then missed it. To me that has become ubiquitous. If you want another trick. Check out the tape and CA glue trick. It has changed the way I work and earned CA glue a permanent seat in my tool kit. Used it the other day to set 2 pieces of wood that were slightly different thickness to be perfectly flush. It was a transition from wood flooring to wood stair nosing.
Just great advice as always from Jonathan. Just like most tools, the quality of the abrasive media used really makes a great difference in the final work product. But even with the best abrasives, there is no substitute for knowing when to do the sanding and using the proper methods and techniques. Jonathan's such a fantastic resource! Thank you, Jonathan!
I watched the 2nd sanding video you did with the robot sanding when it came out and immediately bought a sample pack of the 3M Cubitron net discs. Long story short, I then bought sample packs for several other woodworkers in my life and have been avidly trying to use up my old sandpaper so that I can completely restock with the Cubitron discs. Less time sanding, fewer swirl marks, and fewer disc replacements required. The hype around them (in my experience) is very justified. Also, just absolutely love the whole no-BS series. Keep them coming!
I have a couple of those 3M sanders, along with the 3M Cubitron sandpaper. With good dust extraction, together they make for a vastly better sanding experience.
I don't know if it's just me but I believe popping the surface brings up imperfections that I didn't see earlier. Bunch of great advice. I can tell you that you should be aware that the mesh sandpaper will not be as strong, so keep that in mind.
Love the No BS videos - this one no exception. Was reminded of several things I learned in my woodworking classes. I know it’s not for everyone but still prefer my hand planes, card scrapers etc when I’m working on fine furniture. Cutting boards and similar back to the sanders.
Gotta say, I really like my Black & Decker Mouse sander. That baby saner gets in all the small corners and is perfect for small items like knife and tool handles.
I bought a hepa filter kit for my rigid vacuum, that along with the dust deputy was a nice upgrade. Filter and bag last a long time, great for health & savings.
Great video again! And thanks for doing the most reliable sandpaper test ever. Bought 3M cubitron straight after seeing the video and it actually turned sanding in to something nice to do. Never thought I would say that 😅
Call me a masochist Jonathan, but I kind of like sanding. Taking a rough, uneven, discolored piece of wood and transforming it into a near perfect surface that will finish beautifully is a joy (albeit a slow one). I work with imperfect live edge slabs that can start out needing serious belt sanding, working from 40 grit up, and then going to a random orbital through all the stages shown in your excellent video. Belt sanding is not much fun, but I find finish sanding can be a calming, almost meditative process. Your body goes through smooth, repetitive motions that allow you think about anything... or nothing? That doesn't mean that I stretch it out - as the son of a cost engineer and OR nurse, seeking efficiency is bred in the bone. This video and your other related ones have certainly improved the quality of my work and cut down on the time spent sanding, leaving me able to do stuff I enjoy even more. Many thanks!
Great tip on the pencil trick. I find if you spend time on the first grit, subsequent grits take less time. I often go from 120 directly to 180 this way. Ultimately I think of sanding as how do I want my project to “feel” when touched. Visual is obvious, but touching a fine piece of furniture is a more visceral experience.
Great video, as always. The tip about the pencil trick makes great sense. I finally switched to mesh a year or so back and I absolutely love how much it improves the sanding experience - even with a low end sander. I originally tried the Diablo because of a store promotional price, but the Cubitron is even better - lasts forever!
DIY V-Drum sander ! Use it for first grit, its super fast and flattens surface. 90 Degree fence makes edge sanding perfect. You should make a kit to sell.
Sanding is not awful when you use the right tool. If you did not watch the sanding test he did, you should. You will want to switch to Cubitron and never look back. Thanks, Jonathan, for another great no bs episode.
You can also sand hard to reach spots with a multitool. Fein sells a set of very handy sanding pads that take sandpaper. However, most of the time I prefer scrapers for those tight spots.
use a pad saver in between your random orbital sander's pad and your mesh disc. friction and heat eventually wear out the hooks and the pad saver is much cheaper to replace than the pad. Non-mesh discs cause less wear.
The blue tape on the finished surface trick is great. How many times have I finished a piece only to find material handling marks and scrapes. I will be using this soon. Thanks!
I bought the Festool ETS 125 something something something with the angle adapter strictly for square-edge sanding, and I have to say... best move I've made in terms of "beyond the basics" for sanding. I couldn't find other (read as: more affordable) sanders with a good 90* adapter, so I completely overspent on the Festool. However: **worth it!** They really do make good tools, much as I hate to admit it.
Thanks great video 👍 I guess I’m kinda strange, I actually like sanding it means that the project is nearing completion. I’ve been doing woodworking for a very long time at one time the easiest way to flatten a top was with a belt sander, I’ll be using it until I get space for a flatting jig for a router.
Ya, the bigger, the better! Fill me with your CA glue and activate it! (Sorry, I work in construction) The tape & CA glue is probably the biggest tip I've gotten in the last couple years. It's revamping things I'm doing, making it more perfect, and easier.
Great video. I love the Cubitron discs but would love a word about how to tell when their net disc is done. It wears and the edges get ragged, so it looks beat up. But is it still efficient? When is it time to toss?
Jonathan, I always enjoy your videos and have learned so much from them. Been a woodworker now for about 7 years and have a long ways to go. I have a Festool sander and have found the blue sandpaper to be the most durable. How does it stack up to the Cubitron?
Jonathan, just a teenie weenie humble suggestion when it comes to scotch Brite, try instead 3M SPP Maroon pads instead of the Red Scotch Brite. Its is a 320(ish) grit factor, its a denser material and can be used wet or dry. its does cost more than any other like material, but it is worth it between coats of finish. And it mates well with hook and loop interfaces. I buy the 20" buffer discs for floor prep and recoats, I also use the 3 inch center pop out on my 3 inch buffer/sander for edge work etc. just a suggestion, like to hear from you if you get around to using this medium.
Great Information! Question: I am building a lap steel guitar which is essentially a 3" x 3 3/4" oak board with a thinner headstock. As soon as I cut it to size, I used a hand planer and then a card scraper to smooth the surfaces. Since the card scraper did such a great job (thanks to your instructional vid on how to use them!), should I by pass the coarser 80 and 100 grits and jump to 120 on up?
The 3m disk paper is super hard to find where I live, even online, but ive found that mirka abranet works very well and is cheap enough that even if it's a bit worse, it's not a financial burden
Upgrade your sandpaper is a good tip, but also don't stick with your $60 hardware store RO sander forever. If your wrist hurts after 30min of sanding it might be time for a higher end sander, it makes a big difference. (plus they can also remove more material in many cases, but that's secondary in my view)
I really wish they made cubitron sanding belts for the drum sanders. They do make cloth backed cubitron up to 220 or so grit, so why doesn't any one have that available. Not sure how much of a turner you are, but I can not live without an angle/close quarters drill for my bowls. I NEVER blow off any of my pieces. That puts way to much dust into the air.
People say sanding is boring. You need to listen to sanding music. "Sand by me" by Otis Redding, "Sand by R.E.M"., "I'm still sanding" by Elton John, and "Sand by your man" by Tammy Winette are a few recommendations. I know, I need help. You'll never be able to listen to these songs again the same way.
Thanks for the video, can you help me figure out the connection piece i need from my ridgid shop vac to a ryobi router or a dewalt sander? my Ridgid hose says 2 1/2" which is standard im guessing, but when I measure it its actually 2 1/4" is that a nominal 2 1/2"? Anyhow, im either going to 3d print some attachments of would like to check out what you have used in the video with that universal connector.
Nice fact based video. Don't forget when using a dust vac hooked up to your sander is not to run the vac at full suction this wiil add to much suction which causes heat and will shorten the life of the sanding substrate.
Very timely video. I just moved into my new shop and after 25 years of DIY woodworking kicking around a garage (that had cars in it), I've finally got a dedicated woodworking shop 14'x32' (I just retired). I've currently got a Ryobi sander, and looking for my 1st real performance = w/dust collection sander. I noticed you have 2 of them in this video, the Mikita BO5041 ($126), and the 3M Xtract 88758 ($464). How much value does the 3M provide over the Mikita if any? You picked up the Mikita in your video and said you use it 99% of the time but when watching the video your using the 3M most of the time. Both are random orbital so I'm guessing you meant you use a random orbital sander 99% of the time, not necessarily the Mikita. Really appreciate you NBS video's and will certainly shop at your store. Searched for sanders and nothing in the store, so prices are what I found on Amazon.
I have the Makita and it's all I've used so far. It's okay. My understanding is Festool, Mirka and 3M sanders are all top of the line. The 3M sander is a relatively new product but did make some waves when it was released for its high quality. I will likely upgrade soon and haven't decided which brand to go with. I think the Festool has some QOL features if you use their whole system together but obviously gets very pricey!
@@homtherobot Thanks for replying. Based on your comment and KM's below, I think I'll buy once cry once and spring for the 3M sander. I'll all about getting great value for my money, but also factor in what it will do for me personally. I just turned 65, and my hands are beginning to get a bit arthritic. My Mom had a very bad case of arthritis so I suspect its in my future as well. My left thumb just got what is called thumb pop, where it sticks when bent and instead of moving smoothly it snaps back from bent to straight. I've got a splint to wear on it for another 4 weeks (only when I sleep) and then back to the Dr. and possibly steroid shots. Not something I'm looking forward to. With what I've gleaned from reviews, the 3M, Mirka and Festool sanders are all very smooth as compared to others, so I'm thinking I'd be much better off with that banging away at my arthritic hands then something else.
I know everyone has different experiences but I had bad luck with the 3M sander. I loved the sander, but after about 3 months, after about 5 minutes of use it would just stop rotating. I would have to turn it off and back on for it to start back up. But then it would only run about 15 seconds and do the same thing. I sent it back in for warranty work and they offered either a new unit or a refund. I took the refund and used it to buy a Festool. Haven’t looked back. One other quick comment - when I bought the Festool I chose to go with a 6” instead of the 5” 3M that I had. OMG! What a big difference. That extra 1” makes a HUGE difference in terms of efficiency. (I know, I know…that’s what she said too😂)
@@byronforehand Thanks for the insight. I hadn't heard any bad press on the 3M to date, so good to know and I'll do a bit more research before I make the purchase.
Question regarding grit progression. You have 80-120-150-180-220 listed, perfect progression through what 3M offers. I generally skip 150 and do 120-180 from the school of thought being your next grit shouldn't be any more than 50% finer than your previous grit. I've personally never experienced any issues with swirl marks by not using 150, but otherwise following this process. Do you use 150 based on personal preference or do you feel it's necessary?
I'm curious if most people really start with 80 grit. That was the advice i received when i first started and i struggled to use it effectively due to its aggressive removal. Nowadays i start with 120 and if i have some rough joinery to clean up i reach for my block plane.
It depends. I mill my own lumber and definitely start with 80 grit if I haven't run it through the planer/jointer. If you're buying lumber presmoothed, you may not need 80 grit.
Same as the others stated - it depends. I generally only use S4S lumber so 80 grit feels like taking a step back in the sanding game. I generally start at 120 unless there is a very specific reason to need the material removal of 80 grit.
Thanks for the input all! To be clear, I wasn't trying to call out the advice in this video as bad - just wanted to see if there's a hole in my workflow. My planer seems to leave such a nice finish that even starting from rough lumber I don't see 80 grit fitting into my process.
*Support what we do at* KMTools.com
*Best Sandpaper Test Ever Done* th-cam.com/video/NZDCRFi8dKY/w-d-xo.htmlsi=SYsELZFwlSMD6tWW
*3M Cubitron Film/Net Sandpaper AND Sample Packs* kmtools.com/collections/sanding-and-finishing-1
*Soft Foam Sanding Pad* kmtools.com/products/3m%E2%84%A2-clean-sanding-soft-interface-disc-pad-5-6
*Scotch Brite Hook and Loop 3 Pack* kmtools.com/products/scotch-brite%E2%84%A2-hookit%E2%84%A2-7447-pro-disc-3-pack
*Yellow Hand Sanding Pad* kmtools.com/products/5-hand-sanding-disc-pad-with-velcro
*Non-Slip Pad for Finishing* kmtools.com/products/24-x-48-non-slip-pad-for-finishing-router-work-holding
*Hook-it Sanding Pad Hook Saver* kmtools.com/products/3m%E2%84%A2-hookit%E2%84%A2-clean-sanding-disc-pad-hook-saver
*The Katz-Moses Woodworkers with Disabilities Fund ABOUT* kmtools.com/pages/kmww-charity
“Like My Parents” great line. Very informative, thanks for sharing your knowledge.
"....most of the time...." 😆
The blue tape trick for already sanded surfaces was totally worth the price of admission.
The best way I found to not go wrong when sanding down proud joints from boxes corners is a stationary belt sander, preferably with a 90 degree fence.
Thanks for the detail on the pencil sanding tip! Truth be told proper standing takes twice as long as most people think. Patience is key. I’m still learning that one. Great video Jonathan!
Thanks Chris!!!
I never thought I could get excited or even passionate about sandpaper. Then I met 3m net. Unbelievable
This was very good. Thanks.
A local body shop gives me their old sandpaper in 55 gal drums. Back at the shop we put on our dust masks and go through and sort it all. OMG those guys waste some awesome sandpaper!! I usually recover about 40 gal barrel of great 3M Cubitrton and have not bought sandpaper in years. Ask if you can "Help" them dispose of it.
Pro tip- pick up the drums near lunch and take them pizza, etc. and the quality of the thrown out sheets increases over time lol.
You deliver the best woodworking information on the net, Jonathan. Thank you!
Thank you very much for the sanding tips. Nobody likes to do it and perhaps we try to hurry through it. I've been guilty of that and nearly ruined a project. The tips you gave us should actually save time and I appreciate it greatly. I'm actually looking forward to sanding my next project thanks to you Jonathan! Thank you again 😊. 😊😊😊😊😊❤❤❤❤❤
Jonathan, I wanna sincerely thank you for the teaching you provide. You’re a great communicator.
I have the Bosch vacuum and it’s a great addition to my shop. Can’t speak enough about how great it works. I’m on year 3 of ownership and have had no problems.
Everyone I know that owns one of those Bosch vacs cant seem to speak highly enough about it. Obviously expensive but I’m convinced I’ll get one in the future.
@@moldyzucchinis3251 I in no way am associated with Bosch, this comes from someone who does wainscoting and trim for a living. Best addition I’ve made and the quality of my wood comes out night and day for paint prep because of it. I debated about getting the Festool, which I’m still not opposed to. However, I have the Bosch orbital sander. The ergonomics are great on the hands. They have a dampening pad on it that attracted me to the product, so I wanted to have the same brand of vacuum. Anyways, I hope this helps. Good luck in woodworking.
Been doing this for 25+ years and always learn something from your videos. Great video! Thank you!
Definitely going to implement that pencil "trick". I've struggled with that very problem for years and now understand why. Thanks, Jonathan!
Lol I had to skim the video for what you were talking about and then missed it. To me that has become ubiquitous.
If you want another trick. Check out the tape and CA glue trick. It has changed the way I work and earned CA glue a permanent seat in my tool kit.
Used it the other day to set 2 pieces of wood that were slightly different thickness to be perfectly flush. It was a transition from wood flooring to wood stair nosing.
Just great advice as always from Jonathan. Just like most tools, the quality of the abrasive media used really makes a great difference in the final work product. But even with the best abrasives, there is no substitute for knowing when to do the sanding and using the proper methods and techniques. Jonathan's such a fantastic resource! Thank you, Jonathan!
I watched the 2nd sanding video you did with the robot sanding when it came out and immediately bought a sample pack of the 3M Cubitron net discs. Long story short, I then bought sample packs for several other woodworkers in my life and have been avidly trying to use up my old sandpaper so that I can completely restock with the Cubitron discs. Less time sanding, fewer swirl marks, and fewer disc replacements required. The hype around them (in my experience) is very justified.
Also, just absolutely love the whole no-BS series. Keep them coming!
I have a bunch of the Cubitron net discs, I've found that they are best with bare wood only.
I have a couple of those 3M sanders, along with the 3M Cubitron sandpaper. With good dust extraction, together they make for a vastly better sanding experience.
Much much better
Great content! The interface pad is the game changer and for sure needed with Cubitron
Great video Jonathan! So much good information in here! I hope the No BS series continues!
Thanks for this info - I have been making mistakes in my sanding. Now I know better.
Great video! You convinced me to go with high quality sandpaper in the future.
I don't know if it's just me but I believe popping the surface brings up imperfections that I didn't see earlier.
Bunch of great advice. I can tell you that you should be aware that the mesh sandpaper will not be as strong, so keep that in mind.
Love the No BS videos - this one no exception. Was reminded of several things I learned in my woodworking classes. I know it’s not for everyone but still prefer my hand planes, card scrapers etc when I’m working on fine furniture. Cutting boards and similar back to the sanders.
No BS love the no BS SERIES
Excellent video! Thanks for all the info, and I very much appreciate the "no BS" approach!
Gotta say, I really like my Black & Decker Mouse sander. That baby saner gets in all the small corners and is perfect for small items like knife and tool handles.
Great review and information
I see you’re rocking that Arkfleld Pro. I too keep one in my pocket everyday for inspection. I highly recommend that light
Thank you for explaining this so clearly. You helped with the explanation of the pencil trick and it makes sense.
I bought a hepa filter kit for my rigid vacuum, that along with the dust deputy was a nice upgrade. Filter and bag last a long time, great for health & savings.
Great tips as always Jonathan as a new woodworker these no BS videos have been great and a lot of great help and information. Thanks for sharing
You guys should add this to your No BS playlist when you get a chance 👍
Thank you and done
Great video again! And thanks for doing the most reliable sandpaper test ever. Bought 3M cubitron straight after seeing the video and it actually turned sanding in to something nice to do. Never thought I would say that 😅
I enjoy your tips, and getting them via e-mail also gives me a great way to build my reference material for later.
Really great channel! I am learning a lot
Excellent video. Filled with great knowledge and tips. 👍🏾
Outstanding! Learning from every video! Thanks
Call me a masochist Jonathan, but I kind of like sanding. Taking a rough, uneven, discolored piece of wood and transforming it into a near perfect surface that will finish beautifully is a joy (albeit a slow one). I work with imperfect live edge slabs that can start out needing serious belt sanding, working from 40 grit up, and then going to a random orbital through all the stages shown in your excellent video. Belt sanding is not much fun, but I find finish sanding can be a calming, almost meditative process. Your body goes through smooth, repetitive motions that allow you think about anything... or nothing? That doesn't mean that I stretch it out - as the son of a cost engineer and OR nurse, seeking efficiency is bred in the bone. This video and your other related ones have certainly improved the quality of my work and cut down on the time spent sanding, leaving me able to do stuff I enjoy even more. Many thanks!
Thank you.
Great tip on the pencil trick. I find if you spend time on the first grit, subsequent grits take less time. I often go from 120 directly to 180 this way. Ultimately I think of sanding as how do I want my project to “feel” when touched. Visual is obvious, but touching a fine piece of furniture is a more visceral experience.
Love this series
Fantastic tips, Jonathan! Thanks a bunch! 😊
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Terrific guide, Jonathan! Keep up the good work!
Thank You Jonathan. Good review and something new to add to my sanding process.
Great video, as always. The tip about the pencil trick makes great sense. I finally switched to mesh a year or so back and I absolutely love how much it improves the sanding experience - even with a low end sander. I originally tried the Diablo because of a store promotional price, but the Cubitron is even better - lasts forever!
Loved this episode, Jonathan. Thanks for all the insights into proper sanding methods and techniques.
Great information, Jonathan! Thank you for sharing.
Love this series. Thanks
Great information, as always.
DIY V-Drum sander ! Use it for first grit, its super fast and flattens surface. 90 Degree fence makes edge sanding perfect. You should make a kit to sell.
Very educational for me thanks for sharing Will use them in my processes
You are so welcome!
Sanding is not awful when you use the right tool. If you did not watch the sanding test he did, you should. You will want to switch to Cubitron and never look back. Thanks, Jonathan, for another great no bs episode.
You can also sand hard to reach spots with a multitool. Fein sells a set of very handy sanding pads that take sandpaper. However, most of the time I prefer scrapers for those tight spots.
Lots of good info. Tks.
Tips and Tricks and Techniques - Oh My! 😲
Right?!
Loved the comment about your parents!
Thanks for this great video! I wonder if you have any tips and tricks for getting into small nooks and crannies that a CNC could make?
Great Tips!!
Great info thanks!
Great sandpaper! Swear by it after stumpy nubs turned me on a year ago or so
use a pad saver in between your random orbital sander's pad and your mesh disc. friction and heat eventually wear out the hooks and the pad saver is much cheaper to replace than the pad. Non-mesh discs cause less wear.
The blue tape on the finished surface trick is great. How many times have I finished a piece only to find material handling marks and scrapes. I will be using this soon. Thanks!
Good pointers.
How do you know when you’re done sanding?
great video like always. What is the 3M sander that you had in the video?
I bought the Festool ETS 125 something something something with the angle adapter strictly for square-edge sanding, and I have to say... best move I've made in terms of "beyond the basics" for sanding. I couldn't find other (read as: more affordable) sanders with a good 90* adapter, so I completely overspent on the Festool. However: **worth it!**
They really do make good tools, much as I hate to admit it.
Can you say more about how to burnish end grain?
Thanks great video 👍
I guess I’m kinda strange, I actually like sanding it means that the project is nearing completion. I’ve been doing woodworking for a very long time at one time the easiest way to flatten a top was with a belt sander, I’ll be using it until I get space for a flatting jig for a router.
Thanks for the video!
Love your tips
Ya, the bigger, the better!
Fill me with your CA glue and activate it! (Sorry, I work in construction)
The tape & CA glue is probably the biggest tip I've gotten in the last couple years. It's revamping things I'm doing, making it more perfect, and easier.
Great video. I love the Cubitron discs but would love a word about how to tell when their net disc is done. It wears and the edges get ragged, so it looks beat up. But is it still efficient? When is it time to toss?
Go watch my sanding test video. That stuff lasts forever
another great video
Great tips
Jonathan, I always enjoy your videos and have learned so much from them. Been a woodworker now for about 7 years and have a long ways to go. I have a Festool sander and have found the blue sandpaper to be the most durable. How does it stack up to the Cubitron?
Jonathan, just a teenie weenie humble suggestion when it comes to scotch Brite, try instead 3M SPP Maroon pads instead of the Red Scotch Brite. Its is a 320(ish) grit factor, its a denser material and can be used wet or dry. its does cost more than any other like material, but it is worth it between coats of finish. And it mates well with hook and loop interfaces. I buy the 20" buffer discs for floor prep and recoats, I also use the 3 inch center pop out on my 3 inch buffer/sander for edge work etc. just a suggestion, like to hear from you if you get around to using this medium.
Very useful video, as always. Nice job buddy.
Thanks bud!
Great Information! Question: I am building a lap steel guitar which is essentially a 3" x 3 3/4" oak board with a thinner headstock. As soon as I cut it to size, I used a hand planer and then a card scraper to smooth the surfaces. Since the card scraper did such a great job (thanks to your instructional vid on how to use them!), should I by pass the coarser 80 and 100 grits and jump to 120 on up?
Don’t see the listing for the dust collection adapter 👀
The 3m disk paper is super hard to find where I live, even online, but ive found that mirka abranet works very well and is cheap enough that even if it's a bit worse, it's not a financial burden
Awesome video! But you forgot the mm stroke on random orbital sanders
Upgrade your sandpaper is a good tip, but also don't stick with your $60 hardware store RO sander forever. If your wrist hurts after 30min of sanding it might be time for a higher end sander, it makes a big difference. (plus they can also remove more material in many cases, but that's secondary in my view)
Thanks!
I really wish they made cubitron sanding belts for the drum sanders. They do make cloth backed cubitron up to 220 or so grit, so why doesn't any one have that available. Not sure how much of a turner you are, but I can not live without an angle/close quarters drill for my bowls.
I NEVER blow off any of my pieces. That puts way to much dust into the air.
People say sanding is boring. You need to listen to sanding music. "Sand by me" by Otis Redding, "Sand by R.E.M"., "I'm still sanding" by Elton John, and "Sand by your man" by Tammy Winette are a few recommendations. I know, I need help. You'll never be able to listen to these songs again the same way.
That has to be one of the coolest comments I've ever read on TH-cam
What sander and sandpaper do you recommend for removing lacquer and stain from the 1980’s. I don’t want to use chemicals to remove the varnish.
Sanding all my doors coming up on project list, good advice, isn’t writing with that Black Wing the dream?
I have been using cubitrons for over 5 years and I cannot imagine changing to any other sandpaper
How's that Hook and Loop Scotchbrite Pad or cleaning up a table saw surface?
What finish should I use for the inside of a vanity cabinet
thank you cool Katz . help me i do not understand why start off with the 80 grit ? i can see it on rough lumber .
Thanks for the video, can you help me figure out the connection piece i need from my ridgid shop vac to a ryobi router or a dewalt sander? my Ridgid hose says 2 1/2" which is standard im guessing, but when I measure it its actually 2 1/4" is that a nominal 2 1/2"? Anyhow, im either going to 3d print some attachments of would like to check out what you have used in the video with that universal connector.
Nice fact based video. Don't forget when using a dust vac hooked up to your sander is not to run the vac at full suction this wiil add to much suction which causes heat and will shorten the life of the sanding substrate.
I’m not sure about that. Where did you get that piece of info? I dont think vacuums often have suction controls
One of the first rules festool teaches you about their vac systems connected to thier sanders.@@katzmosestools
Came for the knowledge drop, stayed for the double entendres.
Very timely video. I just moved into my new shop and after 25 years of DIY woodworking kicking around a garage (that had cars in it), I've finally got a dedicated woodworking shop 14'x32' (I just retired). I've currently got a Ryobi sander, and looking for my 1st real performance = w/dust collection sander. I noticed you have 2 of them in this video, the Mikita BO5041 ($126), and the 3M Xtract 88758 ($464). How much value does the 3M provide over the Mikita if any? You picked up the Mikita in your video and said you use it 99% of the time but when watching the video your using the 3M most of the time. Both are random orbital so I'm guessing you meant you use a random orbital sander 99% of the time, not necessarily the Mikita. Really appreciate you NBS video's and will certainly shop at your store. Searched for sanders and nothing in the store, so prices are what I found on Amazon.
I have the Makita and it's all I've used so far. It's okay. My understanding is Festool, Mirka and 3M sanders are all top of the line. The 3M sander is a relatively new product but did make some waves when it was released for its high quality. I will likely upgrade soon and haven't decided which brand to go with. I think the Festool has some QOL features if you use their whole system together but obviously gets very pricey!
The 3M sander is so amazing. I was saying I use a random orbital 99% of the time not the Makita. The Makita is a good sander though
@@homtherobot Thanks for replying. Based on your comment and KM's below, I think I'll buy once cry once and spring for the 3M sander. I'll all about getting great value for my money, but also factor in what it will do for me personally. I just turned 65, and my hands are beginning to get a bit arthritic. My Mom had a very bad case of arthritis so I suspect its in my future as well. My left thumb just got what is called thumb pop, where it sticks when bent and instead of moving smoothly it snaps back from bent to straight. I've got a splint to wear on it for another 4 weeks (only when I sleep) and then back to the Dr. and possibly steroid shots. Not something I'm looking forward to. With what I've gleaned from reviews, the 3M, Mirka and Festool sanders are all very smooth as compared to others, so I'm thinking I'd be much better off with that banging away at my arthritic hands then something else.
I know everyone has different experiences but I had bad luck with the 3M sander. I loved the sander, but after about 3 months, after about 5 minutes of use it would just stop rotating. I would have to turn it off and back on for it to start back up. But then it would only run about 15 seconds and do the same thing. I sent it
back in for warranty work and they offered either a new unit or a refund. I took the refund and used it to buy a Festool. Haven’t looked back.
One other quick comment - when I bought the Festool I chose to go with a 6” instead of the 5” 3M that I had. OMG! What a big difference. That extra 1” makes a HUGE difference in terms of efficiency. (I know, I know…that’s what she said too😂)
@@byronforehand Thanks for the insight. I hadn't heard any bad press on the 3M to date, so good to know and I'll do a bit more research before I make the purchase.
Outstanding tutorial. What model number is the Makita sander? When do you use the Makita versus 3M sander?
I almost exclusively use the 3M unless it won’t fit
Question regarding grit progression. You have 80-120-150-180-220 listed, perfect progression through what 3M offers. I generally skip 150 and do 120-180 from the school of thought being your next grit shouldn't be any more than 50% finer than your previous grit. I've personally never experienced any issues with swirl marks by not using 150, but otherwise following this process. Do you use 150 based on personal preference or do you feel it's necessary?
I have a variable speed orbital sander, but i never know what number to spin the dial to. Whats a good metric for this?
Do you use a thin interface pad when using the cubitron discs?
I do
That blue tape is f*cking genius for protecting the faces!! 🤯🤯🤯
I'm curious if most people really start with 80 grit. That was the advice i received when i first started and i struggled to use it effectively due to its aggressive removal. Nowadays i start with 120 and if i have some rough joinery to clean up i reach for my block plane.
It depends. I mill my own lumber and definitely start with 80 grit if I haven't run it through the planer/jointer. If you're buying lumber presmoothed, you may not need 80 grit.
Best to use your best judgment but as long as it works for you
Same as the others stated - it depends. I generally only use S4S lumber so 80 grit feels like taking a step back in the sanding game. I generally start at 120 unless there is a very specific reason to need the material removal of 80 grit.
Thanks for the input all! To be clear, I wasn't trying to call out the advice in this video as bad - just wanted to see if there's a hole in my workflow. My planer seems to leave such a nice finish that even starting from rough lumber I don't see 80 grit fitting into my process.
Totally did not think you were. Great question my friend
Thanks for the info, appreciate you JKM. I would suggest skipping the 80 grit, life will be better