The Leather Element: Preventing Dye Rub Off
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 ก.ค. 2024
- In today's video, Chuck answers a question about preventing rub off when dyeing leather. While there are many opinions on this subject, we'll walk you through step-by-step on dyeing and top coating your leather to create the least amount of rub off. We hope this is helpful information and helps you in your leathercrafting endeavors!
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Chuck speaks so clearly it's remarkable.
I find I usually have to have subtitles on for most videos I watch, but this is the first of Chuck's videos I've seen and I don't think I could misunderstand his words if I tried.
Perfect choice in presenter.
I was making some black leather gun magazine holsters from veg tan leather and I first used powder based dye. I did not know about the science of rubbing your leather. I later used the alchohol based dye. When I used powder based dye I kept getting rub off excess dye. I went into a mentor of mine. He told me about 100% of the time I was going to get rub off. Whether it is powder based or Pro dye.
So, I said ok, how do I work with it? His answer was interesting. It was buffing process before I added any type of conditioner or oil to the leather.
I was of course listening intently. He recommended, as a professional, to use whoole or rag when I buffed the leather. That way it would work in the dye and buff and take off the excess dye. I also used alcohol wipes to take some of the excess dye off. However, when using the alchohol wipes to remove excess dye. I learned that it took off the top coat of dye if I rubbed too much, making it lighter black. I realized alcohol wipes were not good on the leather itself. I also learned that applying oil into the leather was important, but only applying a little bit and then let it completely soak after I buffed it. If I added too much of the oil into the leather it would continue to bleed dye.
But in all, I had very to no issues with bleed out from the top of my leather. But it was the process of applying dye in the right amounts, then rubbing with whoole, and then applying the top coat or finish. Afterwards, I had no issues. But again, applying dye, let dry, rub off excess dye, applying oil, rub, then apply finish, then rub depending on the top coat. Tan coat works best.
Yes allot of rubbing.
Thanks for all you do.
Nice!
When I used alcohol dyes I buffed it after a minute I dyed it, repeated it 10 minutes after, then again 10 minutes more and after it dried it completely and then applied a top coat
Oil dyes are so much better and far less care
What is this word “Whoole”?
Thank you for taking the time to make this video. It's exactly what I wanted to know. The passion and knowledge you have for/of the subject are second to none. So whenever I need to know something regarding leather work, you are the first source I look to. Thanks once again.
Since you put me on to the pro dye my rub of problems have just vanished. Happy tails
I love this guy. The enthusiasm in his voice just makes every vid adhd friendly & engaging even when talking abt boring stuff. So I’m gonna be experimenting dangerously with Angelus & run off on an old suede messenger bag cause it was all I had access to, fingers crossed lol.
Thanks for the info Chuck! I’ve been working leather for ten years now and still learn new tricks from your videos!
Thank you so much!
Hey Chuck, I asked you this very question the other week in the live question and answer so I appreciate the time you put into making this video. I have been using a thin veg tan lining on the inside of the gun belts I have been making and taking the time penalty punching and hand sewing as a result. I've been using the alcohol based dye so far so it looks like I've got an excuse to buy some oil based dye to see how they compare. Thanks again
Thank you, Ben - glad the video was helpful!
Thank you for this! I have been planning to make a set of 18th century leather stays and was concerned with dye rub off on my white shift (it’s worn close to the body so sweat and body heat help shape it but that also means rub off is a huge concern if I dye it). I think I’ll just forgo the dye for this project just to be safe and let the leather patina naturally!
Rub off is A HUGE concern in my goods that I make....leatner goods for the firefighting industry. Lots of bosses in light blur shirts and chiefs in white shirts. I switched to pro dye and also buying the leather pre dyed from the tannery (Wickett and Craig) has made a HUGE difference. Love the videos Chuck! You remind me of my grandfather (Ohio native) who taught me how to do leathercraft. Keep up the good work!
Just starting to get into this as well. Stay safe, From MA with love, brother.
Chuck, great video. I have struggled with rub off for years and wondered what can be done to prevent it if anything. I have started lining my belts with veg tan and no dye and the same for pancake style sheaths. Thanks. Very informative.
You got me into leather working chuck, just made my first buttstock cuff for my marlin 336 but im having a problem with ruboff thanks for the video
Hi Chuck; came across your channel in January and just LOVE your dedication and teaching skills! Also I really appreciate your honesty if comparing products or like in this vid stating which are typical trade-offs coming with certain dyes or finishes. Want to share my beginner's luck with preventing rub off, so plz excuse the wall of text following now...😬
I started with leathercraft in 2022 by crafting myself a custom belt because I was in need for a really broad belt after having acquired a pair of absolutely awesome winter cargo pants for hunters made of heavy wool felt. All of my ordinary 3.5 or 4 cm jeans belts looked just flimsy in those massive belt loops... So I started with a tannery pre-dyed (dark brown) veg tan belt, gave it a groove line and a felt lining for, ya know, learning that saddlers stich by putting the hours in it & also staying true to the style of the trousers. Well, what can I say, to this day I still love the grey wool+dark brown belt combo.
But I have other trousers & shorts which aren't grey, e.g. khaki or sand coloured chinos & cargos, a white one as well and all kind of shirts in lighter colours too, so while I currently make belts for these other outfits which ideally have a wider colour range that pre-dyed brown or black, I am well aware of the possible rub off.
I dye with the water-based Fiebing's "LeatherColors" (formely known as "Institutional Dye"; btw. thanks for your dye comparison vids!) and have found out by doing a set of test straps that applying the Finish sold as supplement specifically for these is good enough to prevent rub off on the skin side for all the colours I tried (red, blue, dark brown, black), but will (oddly) only do a good job on preventing flesh side and edge rub off for black and dark brown, especially after adding a top coat.
After watching this vid here, I applied my personal preference of top coat to all straps after the Fiebing's LeatherColors finish had been allowed 24 hours to dry completely. That top coat is a german finish/top coat/conditioner which combines various natural oils &waxes towards the overall goal of making the leather more supple and water repellent. It's called B&E Beeswax Leather Balm and has a Pegasus Horse as Company logo. Besides providing help with mitigating the known problem of water based dyes making the leather hard as as a board, all of the strips could then be fully submerged in water for five minutes without losing dye (I took them out because I wanted to go on with the test; maybe they would've lasted even longer without losing dye - love that top coat!). The red and blue test strips however would still rub off on white shirt material if the edges were getting heavy "see-saw" contact like you tested here in your vid.
And then I grabbed another red dyed strip which had been finished with the Fiebing's Finish but not yet top coated with the german all-purpose product and semi-carefully daubed the edges (black dye, being water based, creeped a little under the tape on flesh & skive side!) with the black LeatherColor dye, let that dry for 2 hours and then took the pure besswax cake and the burnishing stick to those edges and that was the magic bullet. Now the edges don't rub off anymore!🙃💯🕺
Best Regards & sorry for that looong text, but I tried to make my steps to success crystal clear in all steps!
I just bought my first set of Leather working tools cant wait to get started. Thanks for the inspiration and great videos!
That's great to hear - I hope you have fun with it!
Thank you for such a comprehensive tutorial. I'm making a black bifold for my brother and I'm pretty new to dying veg-tan, so I'm really trying to ensure the wallet isn't gonna stain his pants. I've gotten good results with testing pro dye on smaller projects but maybe for the wallet I'll use a top coat since it'll be at high risk of rub off being carried in a pocket.
Thanks for the video Chuck!
Talk about perfect timing. Thanks
Good information, thanks Chuck.
I really like these videos and I’m not a fan anymore of Tandy leather but they sell a product by Eco-Flo called Top Finish. It is literally liquid plastic and crazy flexible. I don’t like the gloss it gives to the front of projects but I put it on the edges and flesh side of everything and there is absolutely zero rub off. I’ve done lots of stress tests to be sure it works and I’m 100% confident. This product has been a game changer for my business. Again, I am absolutely NOT endorsing Tandy Leather. But that one product is amazing!
How do you apply the Top Finish? The bottle says to use a sponge, but I am applying it to the back of a belt, wondering if I can brush it on? That may be easier to control where it goes and keep it from the front and edges, which I like to burnish with Gum Trag or Tokenole.
Good question Mary. Sorry I didn’t clarify. I would definitely not use a sponge. It’s thicker than most finishes and is prone to showing streaks unless applied perfectly evenly, (which is another reason why I mostly use it on the back of projects.). So what I do is just put on a latex glove and pour it In a small dish. I then dip two fingers in and use the pads of my fingertips to apply it directly. It spreads pretty easily so I slowly work up to the edge without going over. And for the edge itself, I turn the project on its side with gravity working towards the back of the project instead of the front and apply a small amount with one fingertip and slowly work it along the edge. For this I will dip my finger lightly in the dish of Top Finish, then dab off the first drip on my finger before applying it to the edge. It’s easy once you get the hang of it but you gotta go slow so it doesn’t accumulate on the edge and end up dripping or running to the front. If it matters I always round and slick my edges with water first then apply the Top Finish. If you’re putting it on a rough edge it will likely soak in faster and be less likely to drip. Practice on scrap and you’ll get it. I hope that helps. Feel free to message me at LeatherStorm (dot) com if you have any other questions. I’m not advertising and there’s no need to buy anything. I just teach leather and answer questions for free and that’s the place I check daily for questions to answer. Good luck and have fun!
@@suspectii Thank you for responding, I applied it the way you suggested on the back of a belt. It seems to be ok, I just hope it doesn't crack/flake off with wear.
I’ve been using it for years with no problem. It doesn’t crack but all finishes will wear off over time. But with this product I’ve never had any issues. I probably should have mentioned that I message the first layer into the leather so that it soaks in. Then once it’s dry and I apply the second layer, (not always necessary) I do a light coat just to ensure complete coverage and appropriate saturation. Good luck! I hope it works well for you!
I’m not fond of gloss finish so have been using the satin Eco-Flo Satin Shene product. Whatever you do don’t shake it, it takes forever for bubbles to go away. Stir only. I use the tiny 2” foam rollers found for crafts. It goes on even and leaves no streaks or bubbles.
Wow, absolutely sold me on pro dye after this! I’ve been losing my mind coating and re-coating my belts and guitar straps with finishers when I was using regular dye, this helps a ton!
Glad I could help!
My experience has been much the same. There's a lot less rub off with the pro dyes, unfortunately they don't make it in every color so there are times when you have to use the regular leather dye, Oxblood is one example which is an awful color for rub off. An acrylic finish helps a bit but I imagine if it gets wet it's going to bleed onto whatever it touches.
This guy is a whole mood
I found this video when asked by a customer for a black sheath for a knife I made for him. I've only ever used saddle tan dye and never experienced rub off until the black. I just purchased the non-pro as I normally do and found the same rub off experience. I've basically used elbow grease, many clean rags, and some light neatsfoot oil to work out the excess dye on the top coat. Agree, the sides are the worst offenders and slicked the heck out of them. Next time I'm going with the pro dye.
Great video. To prevent rub off on my edges, i typically use fiebings edge kote followed by burnishing with wax. I also use a piece of canvas to burnish instead of a slicker or burnishing wheel. Hope I could help someone.
The problem with edgecoat is that it cracks when it flexes, and if you bang in against something or push something up against it it flakes off. Had to stop using it on my sheaths for that reason just not durable enough.
Great video, very informative.
As you said black bleed is a problem. Got this tip years ago and worked well for me. Dip leather in ( I used Kelly or Fiebings spirit ) black dye 3 times then rub on black antique dye. Don’t let the antique sit on there long as it gets difficult to take off. Start rubbing off the antique and let sit a few min. Apply neutral carnauba cream all over. Let sit a few min and buff.
Thanks for the tips!
This is how I dye crazy horse. I use fiebings antique gel, a little at a time, about 3 even coats that I let dry between. I then take a warm, damp washcloth and basically give it a light scrub. Let it dry again, then I use some Saphir Renovateur, let dry again, then buff it well. No rub off whatsoever on my wallets. It's slightly time consuming, but it's better than wasting leather that I overbought and didn't want to waste.
I use the pro dye but I have some red alcohol dye a supplier sent by mistake. Red is notorious for rub off but I put a very thin coat on my veg tan and then go over it with a thin coat of pro mahogany. The colour is great and practically no rub off. Also, I bees wax my edges then burnish. I find this helps. and I use tacanole rather than tragacanth first.
Thanks Chuck great video
Thanks for the info! 😃👍🏻👊🏻
👍😉. Be waits on information for this. Thanks Chuck. 😉
Hi Chuck. I really enjoy your informative videos. I learn something new with every one. I've been wanting to make a pair of leather suspenders. I don't want to use snaps or clasps, but rather a loop to go over the belt. I am pretty comfortable with my idea, but am having trouble with the "crossing" in the back. I have looked at several factory made styles that all have a round or oblong piece encasing the 'cross' and stitched around the edge. This is the area that has me baffled. Could you do a Leather Element on making a pair of suspenders? I know you will have a great idea for making them look professional. Thanks again for all you do!
Great video, perhaps you can do a leather element on choosing proper tool/hardware sizes for the type/size of projects you would be making. Also for everybody, a video on the French mise en place, everything in its place would be great for workshop efficiency. God bless
Omg thank you it took me forever to find any solution for this
Great informational video, do you have any videos on removing strong odors from leather? I have a new leather jacket and it has a strong smell, I bought what claims to be an odor neutralizer but it was a waste of money.
Thank you for all the awesome videos! I could really use some of your advise right now. I'm in process of making a motorcycle windshield pouches. I glued a yellow suede lining from an old jacket to the thick top black leather. I'm on the last step before sawing them and made a mistake of dying the suede lining with the Fiebing's black professional oil dye. It's been 48 hours and it's bleeding that dye a lot. Is there anything I can do to save this project? Please help!
Doing a lot of book cover projects as practice. I found adding a layer of Acrylic clear satin sheen seals a lot of problems away, but am definitely a student and solicit feedback. Have you tried the satin sheen clear coat?
I just came across your channel and I love your videos. If you have not covered these already here are 2 ideas for future videos. Hope you can cover these;
1) Dying suede products: difference from dying full-grain leathers? what kind of dye to use? Topcoat? Avoiding rub off? Etc…
2) Blending colors? Let's say we would like to dye a piece of sand/tan leather to olive-green; should we use green or blue so that the outcome is olive green?
Thanks!
I wax with atom wax, Buff then a coat of Master's Quick Shine Finish. This seems to seal it pretty good.
Chuck, love your videos. What are your thoughts on using Rosolene to seal the edges, front, and back of a belt?
Hi Mr. Dorset, Would using diluted resolene as a top coat reduce the rub off significantly? Just wondering about using a blue eco-flo waterstain on a belt.
Fantastic video Chuck. Time to get some pro dyes! Can you explain the different uses of oil tanned leather versus latigo in similar weights please?
HI Sean,
Latigo leather is usually chrome tanned and then veg tanned and is known for it's strength. A lot of the time it's used for things like saddle strings, tack and pet collars and leashes (just to name a few). It's going to be much firmer than chrome tanned leather and it's usually heavier than chrome tanned leather, around 6/7 oz. or heavier.
Most chrome tans are used for bags, chaps, accessories, anything where a softer, more supple leather is desired. Hope that helps!
Thanks for this as I dyed a bag with black pro dye and had hideous rub off till I sealed it. I’m very much a novice though
I had the same problem with the pro dye. almost a year now and it still rubs off. I have rubbed in neatsfoot and resolene. still rubs off.
I only use the Pro Oil dye. I did a test many years ago with different brand/types of dye, and the colors on the Pro Oil dye were the best and had the least rub off.
I'm really starting to like these leather element videos more and more! I think just about the only dye that doesn't rub off is vinegarroon, as it isn't really a "dye" at all, but rather causes a chemical reaction within the tannins of the leather. So maybe it's a "stain"? It won't work on chrome tanned leather for this reason--it requires the tannins from the bark or "vegetable" matter used during the tanning process. At least as far as I understand. In my experience, it's an extremely durable finish.
So the positives of this method are:
1. It's inexpensive
2. No rub off, or bleeding, even without a top coat
3. It is very easy to make
And the drawbacks are:
1. The vinegarroon solution has an unpleasant smell, and it tends to hang around on the item for a while.
2. No matter how concentrated the solution is, it doesn't seem to be a very rich black. More like a very, very dark grey. It can be improved by a few coats of neatsfoot oil, but it won't ever be like a commercially made dye.
3. It is time consuming to make (although it is almost entirely hands-off)
In my opinion, most people who try vinegarroon and have unimpressive results are usually using a batch that is much too weak. If you are reading this and you are interested in making your own to try here is my method. Please keep in mind this is not terribly scientific:
Put a handful or two of rusty nails or any rusty thing in a glass jar and pour white distilled vinegar to cover. Do not put a lid on the jar, as it will produce gas and you don't want it to build up pressure. Let it sit somewhere undisturbed for several weeks. Add vinegar as needed--some will certainly evaporate. It will smell quite unpleasant and form a black crust on top. This is all fine and normal. After a few weeks, remove the rusty nails and strain all solid matter from the liquid. It is best to strain the liquid using coffee filters (please don't use the drip cone from your kitchen. You will be very sorry if you do). Once the liquid is as clear as you can get it, let it sit in the glass jar undisturbed for several more weeks, until it has evaporated down significantly. You want it to be a very dark liquid, like dark roast coffee. Strain one last time, and place in a sealed jar. Against the light, it may have a dark amber hue, but when applied to leather it will transform it to black! It works on wood, as well. I use this often to artificially age wood. Keep in mind that the final color of the wood will be in direct correlation to the tannins. So pine won't be very dark, but red oak will be jet black.
Awesome video. Could you apply angelus leather paint over dye?
I have heard of some using olive oil as a conditioner. Is that a good alternative to neatsfoot?
Thank you!!
Love the side by side comparison. So helpful. I’ve seen some makers who paint parts of their projects and then dye. Would pro dye still be the best choice?
Hi there!
Yes, the Pro Dye works great for that as well!
About the dye rubbing off thing. I have less experience working with leather than I do searching for videos on the subject and not much of that, but I did manage to come across a page by a fellow titled 'Vinegaroon Black Leather Dye' purely by happenstance.
You have to make your own but it is quite simple as you only need white vinegar, steel wool and a couple of days for the vinegar to dissolve the steel wool and later on a mix of water and baking soda to neutralize the vinegar acid smell on the work piece.
This fellow dip dyed and says the dye goes all the way thru and does not rub off. I can see that it would go all the way thru as the steel wool is not particles as it has been dissolved like salt in water so just would soak all the way thru with no particles to rub off.
Finishes not mentioned.
You do only get the black with the steel wool, but I do wonder if this dyeing after mild acid dissolving method might work with other particle pigments to realize other possible colors. But likely, if you see me experimenting with this, expect to see me doing it as remotely as possible, outside and standing upwind in a breeze with a fire extinguisher on hand.
Diamond chisel vs pricking irons?
Doing vegetable tan I run a groove and diamond chisel the holes.. now that I've been doing some top grain I've been printing pdf's that use pricking iron holes ,but I have to punch single holes...
Heres what's on my mind,. are the holes being punched bigger than the diamond forks going to leave my stitching looking lazy? If I was weaving lace these holes would be awesome, but, to just stitch what's the difference?
I/ve had the best results using Resolene to prevent rub-off. Often I will line the inside with pigskin, since I like the look of it and it doesn't add much bulk. I rarely dye edges, preferring a more natural look after burnishing it with gum trag. I have dyed the edges, but I usually sand, gum trag, burnish, and repeat that process another one or two times. I like a glossy edge.
Resolene is the only ting i have found to seal rub-off. Thanks for including this!
"I have two straps here, like I was going to make a leather belt of a pair of straps!" Well.. Yes!
Haha, just had to! Great video as always and thank you for the tips!
I made a collar for my cat and the dye started to rub of on his fur. He has some white fur on his chest and there was a brownish shade to it for a while. Luckily it came off pretty quickly.
Thanks for another awesome video. After I follow these steps can I then use the eco flo super sheen to give it a shine?
Hi Matthew,
Super Sheen is going to be a top coat as well so we would recommend applying it after dyeing and using that instead of the Leather Balm.
I use Eco-flo waterstain, they're so good at not rubbing off. Also, dip or spray with Resoline and it'll never rub off.
Looking for help. Dyed some pieces with the pro dye, and then used a super shene finish, and it pulled the dye off in some areas. Should I use a leather sealer or something else instead?
Hey weaver, I ordered a saddle and unfortunately they have some real sloppy painting done on it. Can I use deglazer on a quip and remove the sloppy edges?
Great. Very Informative
Glad it was helpful! Thank you for watching.
Hi Chuck, I have a new baseball glove that is a camel color with black lacing. I applied a conditioner to break the glove in, and the black lace dye is bleeding and smudging around. How do I clean the black smudging properly?
Chuck do you have a video showing the different waterproofing techniques and tips. I have many projects that require a good seal from the never ending rain. Thank you!
Hi Marianne,
The best thing I've found in my testing is beeswax. Leather is porous so I can't say I would recommend waterproofing completely but the beeswax will offer water resistance.
Thank you Chuck for these videos! I have learned a lot with these. But I have a problem with Fiebings leather balm that I haven´t found an answer. I´m using pro dye and leather balm to finish. But after I have used balm and I need to bend my leather (for stitching etc.) I´m getting cracks on the surface. Have you any idea how to avoid that? 1.dye 2.bend 3.assemble and 4. finishing last?
oil? after dying you need to feed oil to the leather to hydrate.
or if its severe bending, water?
Question submission: Does leather have a Bias like fabric? Shrinking or stretch. I made some small cases / covers for a particular brand of ear phones that come in a small case. Veg tan. Wet formed and dried for d a day. Dyed with Fiebings, then glued ,cut and stitched. It seems that the edges shrink an leave a larger gap between the lid than what I cut. It probably me and doing something else wrong, but just thought I'd ask that question. Thank you.
Chuck, I would love to see a leather element video on how to create removable liners. I am blind and carry a bait pouch on my waist for my guide dog. I’m planning on making one out of leather but I don’t want the oils from the kibble to soil the leather. I’m thinking a waxed Canvas liner that can be removed and cleansed, what are your thoughts?
Put them in a plastic bag
Only took me a year to start watching these excellent videos. What about a product like Fiebing's Saddle Lac or similar? I don't make saddles or tack. But do make costume accessories and have had issues with rub off. Saddle Lac was one suggestion. The other was a paste type wax.
Useful Knowledge. I just bought a leather journal and the red/brown dye is coming off without rubbing it with my fingers. What do you recommend that I do as it's an original pattern pressed journal?
Hey Chuck, great info as always. When you want to tool, color and dye veg tan, what is the best order?
Hi there,
Always tool first and then you can add your dye and paint. Here is a good video on how to add dye and paint to the same project. fb.watch/3PuAiyhYv1/
I use feibings premium dura edge finish . I use two 2:1 coat of thinned resoline with a sponge ( it gets absorbed deeply ) . Next I apply 3 coats 1:1 ratio with an airbrush .
Hi Chuck! I picked up an old rolled up leather piece at a yard sale a while back. Pretty dried out. When I examined it closely, it turned out to be carvings in the leather of someone's experiences from his beginning of WWII, to the end. Not signed. I would like to preserve it, but do not want to wash out the carvins(4 or5). Will neatsfoot oil help preserve this piece and highlight the carvings? Recommendations?
Hi Joseph,
You can use neatsfool oil or if the leather is pretty dirty you can also use Bickmore leather cleaner and conditioner. As long as you don't completely saturate the leather with oil, the carving should be just fine. Maybe test a small corner first and make sure it gives you the outcome you're looking for.
Great video!! Dye run off is a big concern in falconry hood making as you don't want to coat the birds feathers in dye.
I have a question related to falconry:
How can i make the skive side more soft or less abrasive?
Since it is the part that makes contact with a bird i was wondering how to make it less irritating and more comfortable. Would help with a revolver holster project i have coming up soon too
Hi Nick,
The easiest thing to do would be to use a lighter weight leather and line it with a thin veg tan. This would eliminate the rough part being in contact with the bird.
You could smooth the rough side with gum tragacanth and a glass burnisher but I would test a piece of scrap leather first to see if it gives you the results you're looking for.
This is exactly what I was looking for. Looks like the pro dye is superior to the alcohol dye. I’m making a leather sling seat so the edges are critical and I can’t accept any rub off. Has anyone ever tried a sharpie to color the edge and then burnish or a top coat? I have dark veg tan from wicket Craig so on the edges where it is cut the color is not all the way through, but I’m wondering if I shouldn’t still leave it un colored. Thanks!
Hello, don’t know if you can help. My husband had a belt that was cordovan . After the shop refurbished it , it turned out a muddy brown color. He doesn’t like the color. Is it possible to dye it back to cordovan? Thanks for any advice you may have.
Thanks Chuck. I have been using Resolene and Pro Resist over my dyed areas in prep for staining. However, Resolene and Pro Resist all pick up the dye off the leather, fading the covered area. Since I like to apply resist over the top of my carvings to highlight the design, is there a resist I can use that wont dilute or pick up my dye off the leather? This happens even after several days of letting the dye areas dry. Thanks, keep filming.
Thanks for connecting with us and I’ll do my best to keep filming! I am sorry to say that I rarely use a resist since it either takes multiple coats over multiple days or it just doesn’t do what I think it should. The RTC Sheridan Resist seems to be the best I’ve tried. I wish I had a better answer for you. Here is a link to the RTC ... www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/item-detail/50-1968/bee-natural-rtc/pr_27366
What oils do you suggest using before the top coat?
Hello again Chuck & all the guys hanging out in the wednesday live sessions! I got a question for Y'all & really hope to get some feedback & good advice since I'm a beginner who doesn't want to ruin a project on the last leg of the production process.
What products and project steps do you use to not just prevent "dry" rub-off, but to also make a dyed AND antiqued belt water repellent in the sense that it does not bleed anything on the wearer if he gets into heavy rain?
My current project is a veg tan belt that has been stamped, then dyed with the red dye from the water based LeatherColors (formerly known as "Institutional Dye") and then antiqued with the medium brown antique finish paste. I'll describe at lenght what I did for finishing in the next paragraph but the "short book" is:
1) I got an absolutely stunning look - this looks EXACTLY like I want now.
2) It is not as water repellent as I would like it to be for a belt.
I found that following Chuck's advice on preventing rub-off and the method of edge finishing I described last month does an excellent job in making any strap dyed with any of the LeatherColors water repellent & safe against rub-off. So I tooled my strap, let it dry for 24 hours, beveled the edges, dip-dyed it once with the red LeatherColors, let it dry for 24 hours, then conditioned it with one application of the B&E Beeswax Leather Balm, just enough to mitigate the stiffness it got from being dip-dyed with the water-based LeatherColors. After this, I painted the edges with the black LeatherColors dye and after letting that dry I antiqued the tooled top grain with the medium brown antique finish paste. This I let dry for 45 minutes, then buffed it and then applied a heavier coat of the B&E Beeswax Leather Balm, let that wick in for an hour and buffed again. While this gives already a great look and is completely safe against dry rub-off , I then tested what happens if I splash some water over it, like, when we have a really heavy summer rain here in Germany or an accident with a glass of water at the table would happen. The red dye held it's ground, no bleedout at all, but some of the antique did bleed out, especially from the groove lines where it was thickest. I then applied one thick coat of the Fiebing`s LeatherColors Finish (Institutional Leather Dye Finish) carefully as in: no circular moves, but rather dabbing but not, repeat: NOT! sparingly with a wool dauber. After 24 hours I buffed, then repeated this step. It gives a glossy finish optically resembling Acrylic Resolene, but it's not that water repellent. Granted, I can practically hear the red dye molecules yell: "HOLD! THE LINE!!!" and they do. But the antique molecules...While they don't break completely, some of them DO run away. Now I wonder if the actual Acrylic Resolene might offer me more protection for the antique or if Bee Natural RTC Sheridan would do a better job at that - Or maybe it's something else I haven't thought of? I don't want to buy a can of every finish/sealant to test if it's the right product for that kind of project so please share your advice. Thank you in advance for reading until here and for sharing your experience!
Any thoughts on dying a shearling coat
Is there anything one can do to smooth up the ruff interior of a leather holster? I'm assuming it is the back, ruff side, of the leather when the two pieces were sewed together to make the holster. It collects dust and I'm concerned about gun wear. ANY help will be appreciated. This is my first purchase of a leather holster, my next holster purchase will definitely be lined
Add a thin coat of clear glue like rubber cement to the edges, them buff it down after a few hours of dry time.
Hey guys I have a question maybe (hopefully) someone could answer. I bought some black scrap split suede a while back, it's a very dark black, if I were to guess, I'd say they probably didn't complete the dye process. Just handling it turns my hands black. It's not wet, but there is a certain smell to it. I don't really know how to describe it other than raw. Is there any way I can salvage this? I'd really like to use it because it's perfect for a project I'm working on aside from the dye getting everywhere lol. Is there some way i can stop this or maybe complete the process I'm feeling like they didn't finish?
Is the veg tanned treated in any way before you apply the dye??
Could you make a tutorial on how to make a western style gun rig? I've wanted to make one for a while but cant find a good video to show me.
Oh yes, oh yes! I would just love to see Mr. Dorsett`s take on that :)
I used this tutorial and have made one from it.
There are four parts:
th-cam.com/video/6_ZMeW0o434/w-d-xo.html
Thanks!
Hi! I know nuthin' about nuthin'...but I was wondering if there was a way to put a wax finish on the leather. That might help to keep the dye from coming through and rubbing off. Just a suggestion, but like I said...I don't know what you can do with wax and leather.
Would you clean, oil and balm AFTER you add a antique finisher or would you clean, oil and balm before, with your dying process?
Thanks for the video, I have a quick question. I tried using fiebing's saddle lac spray on a strap for a bag after seeing one of your videos, but when it dried it started peeling and cracking off, any suggestions as to if I used it wrong or for the wrong application? I ended up rubbing it mostly off with a rag and just using a sheen instead.
Hi Pat,
The only thing I can think of is to make sure you're making light, even passes over the leather - you don't want it on there too heavy. Also making sure the bottle is room temperature or even warmed up with your hands to a little more than room temperature. I would try a light coat on some scrap with the can warmed up and if you get the same results it may be expired. If you just bought it, contact whoever you purchased it through and see about getting a replacement. If it was from Weaver we'd be happy to help you with that. Hope that helps!
Weaver Leathercraft thanks for the suggestions, I’ll try them out!
Hey Chuck, have you tried Feibing's Acrylic Resolene or Pro Resist on the flesh side? I've used the resolene on small projects and it seems that one or two thin coats help quite a bit with preventing rub-off. Just wondering what your thoughts/experience are with this.
Hi Mike!
I have not but with your advice and level of comfort with it I will give it a try!
@@WeaverLeatherSupply That would be awesome to see your results and hear your thoughts on it. I've used it for sealing pieces for costumes, but I haven't received much feedback specifically about rub off from anyone I've made those items for.
So I'm new to leather and I want to make tool belt accessories like plier holders and such, but I'm not sure what kind of leather to use, I was gonna use veg tan so I could mould it, but does it need to be sealed? Cause I sometimes work in the rain
Hi Dan,
We would recommend veg tan for this if you're going to be molding it. And yes, I would put some type of top coat on the leather, especially if it's going to be in the elements. Beeswax works great as a water resistant top coat.
I am new to leather crafting but I have been using Pro Tex CAMP high content silicone water and stain protectant spray. 2 coats.
Seems to stop the brown dye transfer even on edges.
Is this bad for the leather?
I’m having issues when I only use Eco-Flo gel antique (acrylic) to get the color I want on tooled pieces. Both the Resolene & Leather Balm with atom wax make the color run (bad). I’ve tried everything except using an airbrush to apply it. Should I just go with Saddle Lac for straight gel antique or is there a trick to reduce the issue? I have pro dye, but some folks prefer the rich colors & look of only gel antique. Thanks.
I wipe a coat of 2:1 resolene then air brush 3 coats at a 1:1 mix . I don't use saddle lac on highly flexing projects as I've had it crack badly . I hate leather balm .
I've been wanting to dye and paint leather earrings. What is the best dye to see to need get bleed thru in my color? The pro dye? Should I seal it before I paint them. I'm wanting to use Angelus paints, but my dye bleeds thru.
Hi Amy,
It may take several coats of the lighter Angelus paint to paint over top of the dye. I don't know if the paint would stick very well if you sealed it after dyeing and then painted but maybe try a scrap piece and see if it holds up!
I dyed my $1200 leather jacket in jet black Angelus dye and applied LP on it, problem is lot of dye is bleeding making everything like hands black, any help? Thanks
Is it a problem to hang leather while you let the dye dry? I'm looking to die several feet of leather strips and it would be much easier if I could hang them to let them dry, but I don't know if that will cause any problem with the dye.
Do you have any suggestions for how to clean rub off on a leatherbound book? It's one of the Barnes and Noble leatherbound classics, so it's not super old. It may not be real leather, I'm not sure. Red dye is getting all over the cover and staining the white leather. I'd love to clean it up and use some sort of fixative if you have any suggestions!
Very interesting. The only way I know of to not get rub off is to not dye! Thanks.
I have old pair of 877s that I’d like to try and “tea core” and wondered what might work best. I’d been debating between oil and alcohol fiebings before finding this video.
My thought process was alcohol might be better for my use since:
1. I want to rub off with moderate use and show the red/orange color underneath.
2. I’m surface dying, not trying to fully die a crafted piece.
Here is my plan, at least with what I’ve learned so far:
1. Saddle soap and clean boots thoroughly.
2. Wipe surface lightly with rubbing alcohol. Just enough to remove some oils from the tip top of the grain. I think this would help alcohol dye penetrate just slightly as intended? Oil and oil mixes, while alcohol dye and the boots oils would “fight” each other.
3. Dye the boots.
4. Brush brush brush to remove excess dye. Dye again if needed and repeat.
5. Finish with very light coat of black shoe polish to even finish and enhance tea core effect.
Hoping someone can chime in with suggestions or a different method using oil based dye!
Sir, thank you for your videos, I deeply appreciate them. I am a newer hobbyist and my question is: if you have rub off, is there a good process to re-dye it? In particular, my problem is the shoulder piece which is two veg tan piece dyed black with the top grain outward. The part that goes on the shoulder is starting to brown.
Hi there,
We would recommend wiping the leather with a deglazer to remove any top coat first. You can then re-dye and add a top coat and it should be good to go.
@@WeaverLeatherSupply Roger, thank you!
Any of you all have any good way to clean dye that's rubbed off? I got a nice blonde baseball glove and the black laces are leaving a bit of a mess. I know it's not all that important but I'd like it clean it off if it's possible
Can someone please answer this question, iv asked and gotten so many different answers. Aussie leather conditioner and then resolene, or vice versa?
Thank you for the video! Could you please do one on selling leather products locally?
Street fairs when they come back, sell to specialty stores around you, or online but that will be time consuming and not as rewarding as toe to toe meeting with customers.
I used super shene. It seals a little too much but it does work for rub off
I just tried everything for two leather Bleu de Chauffe satchels that were leeching dye really badly. Don't waste your time on anything else - just go straight to using Liquid Kicks top sealant (I had to use 4 coats). It was the only way to seal in vegetable dye
I bought a leather purse of which the color from the cross-body straps keep rubbing off onto my shirt. What can I do to prevent this?