@@AustinB1024 Tandy IS awesome. I love my job! This is the best breakdown of all the different dyes we sell that I have seen, and I am very excited to be able to point people to this video.
This is the video that every leather workers wanted when they first got started. Thank you sir from me and on behalf of all the future generations of leather workers.
Previous Tandy employee here, it is SO NICE to see this info out there. There’s a lot of misinformation that makes its way around, so I appreciate your thorough demo, and all of the good useful info you’ve shared here.
Another fantastic thing about the Fiebings Pro Dye is that it is a set pigment. You can add as many coats as you want and it won’t darken beyond what it is supposed to be. Which is super nice for when you are trying to match colors between pieces.
Hello im making my first leather piece and stumbled on this just now. Does what you said carry over all of their colours? No matter the colour i buy and the amount of layers it will always be consistent?
@@meki8216 that has been my experience with them! Brown and black have done that for sure. The red was slightly more variable. Haven’t branched too far behind those.
Great video! Couple comments as I've been testing a ton of different application techniques too: - My #1 tip: prep your leather before dyeing by dampening and lightly burnishing the surface with a wood or glass burnisher. This is AMAZING - it tightens the grain, resulting in way smoother dyeing, and makes the leather really pliable and smooth - I'm obsessed with the feel of the leather after doing this and it also helps with tooling, makes cuts much more crisp . Don't overdo it though or it will glaze up and seal the surface (good for undyed!). You may want to lightly oil your leather before all of this if it seems pretty dry, especially since the alcohol-based dye will further dry it out. - You should press your application tool on scrap leather or a rag after soaking it in dye to remove excess or pooling on your piece. Also, I think my favorite application tool is a rolled up cotton rag. Dip it, then press it on a piece of scrap leather or other rag to remove excess and then apply in circular motions. Most even application I've found (and an old fashioned method). Also, land your applicator away from the edge so you don't get pooling near the edges - my earlier experiments always had darker stains around the border - Dilute your dye. This helps tweak colors and apply it more evenly. Probably the most optional of all my findings. - Rehydrate your leather - apply oil after 24h of drying and buff heavily. Then put your top coat on. Would love to see an exploration of aging/patina techniques!
A few tricks we use at Seraphic Wood and Steel regarding leather dyes. if you want to do more detailed work with dyes, use a brush instead of a dauber, you can also use alcohol markers. I also use leather dyes to dye wood (I use this often for my guitars). alcohol based dyes can be cut with denatured alcohol especially useful to get blended grades.
I did the same, but also did another mix with 2/3 neatsfoot oil, 1/6 beeswax, and1/6 carnuba wax. Both worked great, but the mix with carnuba wax was a bit more solid and shined up a little better. In both cases, I heated the leather slightly with a heat gun, to help it penetrate.
Along the lines of the baking soda, you can make iron acetate by putting steel wool in vinegar until it dissolves, and use that to dye leather. It's a common technique for "ebonizing" wood, and works by reacting with the tannins in the woods. Since leather is also full of tannins (hence "tanning" in veg-tan), it also works here. It gives an interesting blackening effect that doesn't rub off, since it's a chemical reaction in the material rather than a pigment.
Question on the Iron. When I have used Iron mordants on wool, the hand of the fiber is noticeably harsher and the wool tends to be quite brittle. Does it have a similar effect on leather since both are protein?
@@karladenton5034 I've only wiped it on the surface, and it didn't seem to get too bad. I imagine if you soaked it (either applying a lot, or submerging it) it could get brittle. I know some people have also suggested washing it with water or even a light baking soda solution to rinse out or neutralize the acid. I'd suggest testing on a cutoff before applying it to a full project.
Quick tip, for the leather crafter that doesn't have access to a Fiebling's distributor (Tandy) or that mail order is too expensive for. Try a Sharpie. It works very well for small projects, like pouches or phone cases. One of my first projects was dyed solely with a black sharpie. It was a belt pouch for my wallet so I didn't have it in my back pocket all the time while driving a truck. That was about 10 years ago. I still wear the pouch, and it still looks as good as the day I made it. Olive oil will work as a leather conditioner if you don't have access to other oils made specifically for leather. Just work it in and wipe off the excess.
Over the years, I have found that water based dye stiffens the leather. Fiebings Aussie Condition is about the only thing I have found to make the veg tanned leather bend easily again. A long process. Fiebings Pro Dye does not have that problem. Just condition with leather balm after. No stiff leather.
Make a dark oil for finish that is darker than natural oil. Add Fiebings oil brown to a container of Neatsfoot oil. This will give you a color that is like plain leather that is oiled and has been exposed to the sun for a long time. Fiebings use to sell a dark oil 20 years ago. I learned this from a saddle maker 25 years ago.
@@mkuhnactual It is like putting pigment in to paint. Just add until you get the desired color. They use to sell a light brown and dark brown oil. Leather will darken if you put it on the dash while parked in the sun. None of it will be as dark as just applying stain.
i recently tested with rit dye. luke warm water, not super hot. soaked over night. black rit dye turned my leather a deep dark purple and then after oiling it, it looks almost black. in fact i left a picture on the discord of a belt i made using that same leather as keepers. ive also used purple (eggplant) rit dye and its very vibrant after applying a conditioner
@@LadyVineXIII fabric dye. The liquid is super concentrated and only a few dollars per container. It gets mixed with water and is used for fabric dying but it works well on large pieces of leather as well
worst part of youtube - you cannot like something multiple times xD deep diving on theory of a technique you do casually: like actually using logic in your experiments: like presenting your results in a neutral way (there are no wrong ways, it depends on your goal to achieve): like being an enthusiastic craftsmen: like gaining and sharing insight on subjects: like going back to basics as a pro: like i definetly forgot some "likes" in there but it really hits home to see you going over such trivial things just to learn new ways :D And now i'm out to do some projects! Thanks for your continued inspiration (and advise) :)
I’m watching this as I prepare to strip and revolve a pair of boots with fiebings regular dye and I now know I need to pretreat with neatsfoot oil. Thank you sir 🫡
Thanks for this video. I have watch so many videos on this subject, and none seem to go as deep as you did. Every question I had while watching this video, you went right into answering it. So you also leveled up your telepathy skill.
wow!! I really love that video!! The experimentations and results you have here are precious! I would really love to see the same kind of video but with the different top coat products and see which one is more resistant! :D
I've done application using an air rig to dye a cloak made of upholstery leather. Fiebing's Pro-dye in a 50/50 Kelly green and black. The 1 oz. hobby airbrush kept running out too fast, but gave an interesting mottling similar to the camo from star Wars 6. The larger 2-cup paint spray rig gave a smoother finish. Both gave a lot of overspray. If you try this you need full face PPE! I had dye on my glasses that won't come off, and my filter mask was green afterwards. I still was inhaling some of the dye. Be safe.
I loved this video. Been leatherworking for a year but never really experimented, just stuck with what works. Thanks for doing this, that bicarbonate trick seems a great way to antique leather
Dude.... You have no idea how much I enjoy watching your videos... I just started watching your stuff this year, and I look forward to each video like no joke. I attempted to make the Alchemist coffee maker and it came out different with my own touch.
For the more diluted baking soda soaked piece, the flexing streaks on it also kind of look like weathering too, so that's a really good way to get some weathering on the project too
You should be able to get some of the suppleness back by applying oil (mink or neatsfoot) or conditioner to the leather after dying. Though, like he showed, applying the oil first gives even coverage and keeps it from getting crispy, so that's probably a better plan.
I have 2 question, First did you have to thin your dye out when you used your mister. And what did you use to clean out the mister if you change colors
super helpful video!!! i only recently got into leatherworking, and the fiebing's dye was my go to as well. i always noticed it left it crispier than i liked lol and tried the eco flo water dye and that was better but still kinda streaky so i definitely will be checking out the pro dye!!!!
The shield is up on Discord and this weekend I'll finish it with the leather addings. Handle wrapping, carrying strap and because it dose have some weight to it, an arm strap for stability. Even I can't wait to see the finished product. 🛡🙂
This covered a lot more bases than I expected it to. +1 subscriber for you, you've earned it. I'm totally stealing that salad mister idea and the baking soda one. I like the idea of caustic coloring to ensure the piece won't bleed color onto other surfaces in use.
Thank you for your tutorial. I am new to dying leather. I purchased a kit from Tandy Leather to make a clutch purse. All the information you provided is very helpful and will be watching the video again a couple of times. I did purchase paint from Tandy Leather however, it talking with an owner of a Saddle / Leather shop he informed me not to use what Tandy told me to purchase which was an acrylic paint. Thank you again and now can't wait to get started.
Great Video! Really interesting to see the differences and for the large part similarities of the dyes and the ways to apply them. And I’m probably going to use oil on my leather before using the oil dye next time.
Excellent video and extremely topical for my current project. I'm making one of Dieselpunk's Dragon masks and wanted to try to blend colors together in an ombre effect. Your using the spray bottle saved me from even bothering with that one. I already own a Preval Sprayer and was leaning towards that, but the mister looked interesting, with less cleanup, assuming you can store dyes long term in one. Thanks again, your enthusiasm is wonderful also.
Thanks a bunch! I've been looking into dyes recently in an effort to find the shade I'd like to use on leather projects, and this video gave me tons of things to work with!
I love love love the result of the less baking soda solution (shown at 9:00 ) after you uncurl it, the flex marks? It looks like bark. Really cool. This whole video was great. I love that you don't discount any technique, depending on the results you want, they all work. That all said, I hope you replaced your wife's mister. Happy wife, happy life.
Ive used one of those pressurized lawn misters when dying with great results. If doing a larger item such as a sofa. Oh and the Dawn powewash dish soap bottles are also awsome!
I made a camouflage look by dropping drops of various colors. Then I let those sit for a few minutes before spreading the dies and stains. Turned out really cool!
Awesome and so comprehensive! will absolutely use that cheap spray bottle trick for some projects in the near future and am going to get one of those plant sprayers for my new go to leather applicator when I want smooth consistent coverage!
Have you ever tried a color like blue or green? I'm trying to make the Moraine vest from The wheel of time and I can't seem to find a good enough blue to use to get the color I want.
Know that your video is still being watched! My friend wanted pink, but I dont want to buy a whole bottle for one project. The food coloring idea is wonderful. I will let you know how it turns out!
This was great! Have you considered doing some blues? I have a piece I'm trying to restore but the natural leather has seen better days. I was thinking a dark blue would give it new life. 🤔
Hey, quick question - when applying oil before dyeing, should the oil soak in completely? If no, how long should you wait, and should you wipe off excess when applying? Thanks! EDIT: Another one popped into my head - have you thinned out your dye when using the mister? If yes, how much? And what have you cleaned it with after using it?
One thing you can do to keep the leather from curling during the drying process is to put it on a cookie rack which will cause it to dry evenly .... on a flat surface the skin of the leather dries first so it tightens with the flesh side still being wet ... leather shrinks wen it dries
I really enjoyed your science video and all the examples of applications. I would like to leave an honest feedback that it was a little confusing for me to follow on which examples I was being shown. As a person that is completely new to learning leather working, it would really help to add the text on the screen next to the samples labeling what they are. I would not be mad at a re-edit with the labels. Lol. Thank you for being so thorough in your analysis.
I diluted the light brown fiebings leather dye in a ratio of about 1:1 dye to water and dip dyed something and got an amazing result that was similar in colour to your pro dye
I am now curious. What about boiling beets and using the liquid OR using beet paste? Beets have historically been used as a natural vegetable based dye. Also, what about leather cleaners and conditioners? I posted what I use, but I'm curious what others have recommended and how well they work. EDIT: The Fiebings along with similar dyes benefit from a good conditioning after they dry. The crispiness will come right out. Won't save you from that chemical burn that the baking soda did though.
I am currently redyeing a pre-war cars leather seats. The leather is much thicker than modern leathers and they have some damage and serious cracking all over. My question is will leather filler paste, which will be required on all seats compromise the adhesion of the dye ? As the leather soaks in the dye I am concerned the filler which hardens when cured will not absorb the dye. I do have patches of leather filler on all seats after final fine sanding .
I've been searching and searching & can't find what I'm lookin for. I'm hoping you can help! I'm using Chamois for projects in one of my classes, but, instead of just having a light blue & tan I wanted to dye it. I know chamois is super soft, would using rit dye or any of these dyes you used in this video make the chamois hard, or bleed if it ever git wet? I have absolutely no experience with hand dying or leathers. Lol but I'm all about the experiment!
Having owned my own custom leather shop, I found the Fiebing's Pro Dye gave me the most consistent coverage and colors. The water based Eco dyes are okay, but if given a choice I'll almost always opt for the Pro Dyes. Sometimes I oiled the leather before applying the Pro Dye and sometimes it was after applying the dye. Didn't seem to make much difference either way.
Since you really liked using the mister for applying stain, I'd recommend trying a different style of mister. They sell misters (call them plant misters i think?) Which work in the same way as weed sprayers, you put the water in, you pump it to build up pressure and then you can apply the mist by just depressing the trigger instead of having to repeatedly pump. Should help given you even more even coverage.
Question. I have a 25-year-old Natuzzi plum colored leather sofa. My wife wants to change the color to brown. I am an experience commercial painter and have access to spray equipment. What stain do I want to do to the Tuesday leather sofas with. Thank you for your channel.
Ooooh. This is tricky. First, you would need to remove the protective topcoat. Then, the original color would have to eithe be just on the surface or able to be over taken by the new color. Not impossible but tricky for sure
So I don't know if you'll read this but I've got some chamois(shammi) leather that I want to dye but I've no idea which method would be best for such a soft and flexible leather. I'd assume dip dying but getting enough leather dye is A) expensive, and B) difficult for me in the UK. I was wondering if it's possible to use normal cloth dyes or even just watered down paint on such an absorbant leather. Your experiments with food dye and baking soda here make me think that it might actually be possible and I should probably cut a strip and test it out. I'm wondering if just grabing myself another pot of Tamiya water based model paint, and pouring it into a tub of water, then adding the leather and leaving for a bit, might actually do it or not. I've no idea. If I can get it dyed then I'm hoping to use it as a soft grip wrap for some of my wood working projects such as wands and swords.
Try using acetone in a spray bottle randomly spraying leather which has been dyed about 20 minutes prior, this will cause a marbled look which can be very intense. (Note I only use pro dye so I’m not sure how it will affect other dyes)
So I have a dying question, I have old pouches which are brown and I would like to dye black. I have heard so many different ways on how to do it. What would you recommend ? Do I sand the leather with fine grit to get rid of the sealant? Do I just dye over the old dye since I am going darker ?? Any help please.
Ooooh. Ok, first keep in mind that, depending on the process used or the type of leather, it just may not come out right. For example, if it is a chrome tanned leather. But, yes, I would hit it with sandpaper to take down the protective coat first. Next, a bit of oil to open the pores back up, then add you new dye. Let me know how it turns out!
@@SkillTree will do… I know you have been into larping and for the less skilled old army ammo pouches work nicely, but the leather is usually off colors. I will take some before and after pictures. Slowly leveling up :)
Do you think I could make a gradient with one of the sprayers? I'm thinking of an autumn ranger with leaf-inspired gear specifically those leaves that you see that are yellow in the center and as it gets further from that yellow it's red, then brown.
I have an old (soft) leather trifold wallet ( light/medium shade of a green) that i just can't let go of. However no matter how much I clean it, it looks dirty; perhaps due to the color lifting from years of cleaning ? Nonetheless is it possible to successfully re dye the wallet?
I dip dyed with Eco Flo oil dye and it is still leaking, really never dried even after a week. It also scratches off super easily. Probably not going to use this dye again. I think I'm sold on the Fiebings Pro Dye.
Awesome timing! I'm running low on dyes and I'm definitely going to try out the Fiebing's Pro dyes now. Also buying some neatsfoot oil so I can use my leftover alcohol dyes without the crusty leather effect... About the food colouring: might give more options for smaller projects, but I'm not at all confident that they will last. Even many alcohol-based dyes have a problem with fading, so I'm thinking food dyes won't be that permanent 😬
Food dyes tend to be pretty fugitive (fade easily). And some of them can 'break' into their constituent colors - black is especially notorious. I have done quite a bit of food color dying on wool. You really need to fix the food color and KoolAid dyes with heat and citric acid, which is fine on wool, but would be problematic on leather, I would think. But it's fun and very safe to dye with KoolAid and other food safe dyes when you are working with kids.
For sure! Both would make it so very little dye stays on the leather. That's how an antique tends to work. You seal the leather first then add the antique. All the parts that aren't sealed or ar deeper (like you get with tooling) will hold on to the dye. The rest just wipes away with very little color change.
"Fiebing" would be pronounced fee- (like pee) -bing. The ie sounds in German usually like ee. Hope this helps! Btw, just discovered your channel, and I'm binge watching and learning ❤ thanks!
I’ve just bought a new leather pouf but the colour is not what I expected. What can I do/buy to change the colour to a darker brown antique look? I’m a complete novice !
I was shocked at how dark some the those light browns were. The pressure sprayer worked amazingly well. I want to try that with some royal blue I have. It was a lot darker than I wanted it to be.
Good stuff - as always. I do have a question though: I am having a hard time getting the Fiebing’s alcohol-based dyes. Amazon won’t ship them to California and none of the local craft stores ever have them in stock. I’m forced to use the water-based dyes which are fine but, ya know - I want to use the alcohol-based dyes! Any suggestions?
Haven’t watched far enough to see results yet, but I love the Fiebings Pro Dyes. For me, they have always given me a much more consistent color then the normal dyes.
As a Tandy Leather employee, thank you for doing the Lord’s work.
Yo Tandy is amazing. I moved away from my old store, I still order from them anytime I need anything. They are some of the nicest people
Sadly, this may be the most recognition he gets on that front.
@@AustinB1024 Tandy IS awesome. I love my job! This is the best breakdown of all the different dyes we sell that I have seen, and I am very excited to be able to point people to this video.
@@dawsonehlke1290 send the video to corporate. Get him a sponsor.
@@zedzknight Already did. Here’s hoping!
This is the video that every leather workers wanted when they first got started. Thank you sir from me and on behalf of all the future generations of leather workers.
Hey leather worker, can you help me out? I have brand new baseballs I want to look used for a craft project. Tips?
I have been doing leatherwork for 25 years and I have to say this is probably the most helpful and informative video on dyeing that I've ever seen.
Previous Tandy employee here, it is SO NICE to see this info out there. There’s a lot of misinformation that makes its way around, so I appreciate your thorough demo, and all of the good useful info you’ve shared here.
Another fantastic thing about the Fiebings Pro Dye is that it is a set pigment. You can add as many coats as you want and it won’t darken beyond what it is supposed to be. Which is super nice for when you are trying to match colors between pieces.
Hello im making my first leather piece and stumbled on this just now. Does what you said carry over all of their colours? No matter the colour i buy and the amount of layers it will always be consistent?
@@meki8216 that has been my experience with them! Brown and black have done that for sure. The red was slightly more variable. Haven’t branched too far behind those.
Great video! Couple comments as I've been testing a ton of different application techniques too:
- My #1 tip: prep your leather before dyeing by dampening and lightly burnishing the surface with a wood or glass burnisher. This is AMAZING - it tightens the grain, resulting in way smoother dyeing, and makes the leather really pliable and smooth - I'm obsessed with the feel of the leather after doing this and it also helps with tooling, makes cuts much more crisp . Don't overdo it though or it will glaze up and seal the surface (good for undyed!). You may want to lightly oil your leather before all of this if it seems pretty dry, especially since the alcohol-based dye will further dry it out.
- You should press your application tool on scrap leather or a rag after soaking it in dye to remove excess or pooling on your piece. Also, I think my favorite application tool is a rolled up cotton rag. Dip it, then press it on a piece of scrap leather or other rag to remove excess and then apply in circular motions. Most even application I've found (and an old fashioned method). Also, land your applicator away from the edge so you don't get pooling near the edges - my earlier experiments always had darker stains around the border
- Dilute your dye. This helps tweak colors and apply it more evenly. Probably the most optional of all my findings.
- Rehydrate your leather - apply oil after 24h of drying and buff heavily. Then put your top coat on.
Would love to see an exploration of aging/patina techniques!
A few tricks we use at Seraphic Wood and Steel regarding leather dyes. if you want to do more detailed work with dyes, use a brush instead of a dauber, you can also use alcohol markers. I also use leather dyes to dye wood (I use this often for my guitars). alcohol based dyes can be cut with denatured alcohol especially useful to get blended grades.
This video is so comprehensive for someone trying to figure out how to dye for the first time. Honestly, just stellar job.
This is amazing timing. I just created my own leather balm balm. 1/3 beeswax 2/3 neatsfoot oil. It shines, protects and makes everything awesome!
That mix makes a lot of sense. I'll have to file it away to give it a go.
I use a more 60/40 mix but it is an awesome balm!!
I did the same, but also did another mix with 2/3 neatsfoot oil, 1/6 beeswax, and1/6 carnuba wax. Both worked great, but the mix with carnuba wax was a bit more solid and shined up a little better. In both cases, I heated the leather slightly with a heat gun, to help it penetrate.
Along the lines of the baking soda, you can make iron acetate by putting steel wool in vinegar until it dissolves, and use that to dye leather. It's a common technique for "ebonizing" wood, and works by reacting with the tannins in the woods. Since leather is also full of tannins (hence "tanning" in veg-tan), it also works here. It gives an interesting blackening effect that doesn't rub off, since it's a chemical reaction in the material rather than a pigment.
Question on the Iron. When I have used Iron mordants on wool, the hand of the fiber is noticeably harsher and the wool tends to be quite brittle. Does it have a similar effect on leather since both are protein?
@@karladenton5034 I've only wiped it on the surface, and it didn't seem to get too bad. I imagine if you soaked it (either applying a lot, or submerging it) it could get brittle. I know some people have also suggested washing it with water or even a light baking soda solution to rinse out or neutralize the acid. I'd suggest testing on a cutoff before applying it to a full project.
@@PKDoesStuff Thanks, I'm pretty confident with natural dyes on fibers, but am totally a beginner with leather.
Quick tip, for the leather crafter that doesn't have access to a Fiebling's distributor (Tandy) or that mail order is too expensive for. Try a Sharpie. It works very well for small projects, like pouches or phone cases. One of my first projects was dyed solely with a black sharpie. It was a belt pouch for my wallet so I didn't have it in my back pocket all the time while driving a truck. That was about 10 years ago. I still wear the pouch, and it still looks as good as the day I made it. Olive oil will work as a leather conditioner if you don't have access to other oils made specifically for leather. Just work it in and wipe off the excess.
Don't bother with metallic Sharpies for leather. They rub off badly and do other odd things even with a top coat.
Yes please. More deep dives. Compare, contrast, play and experiment please!
Can you possibly talk about different finishes and or waterproofing you can do after dying? This is a topic that doesn’t seem to be touched much.
Yes please!
Over the years, I have found that water based dye stiffens the leather. Fiebings Aussie Condition is about the only thing I have found to make the veg tanned leather bend easily again. A long process. Fiebings Pro Dye does not have that problem. Just condition with leather balm after. No stiff leather.
Make a dark oil for finish that is darker than natural oil. Add Fiebings oil brown to a container of Neatsfoot oil. This will give you a color that is like plain leather that is oiled and has been exposed to the sun for a long time. Fiebings use to sell a dark oil 20 years ago. I learned this from a saddle maker 25 years ago.
what ratio of dye to oil if i may ask?
@@mkuhnactual It is like putting pigment in to paint. Just add until you get the desired color. They use to sell a light brown and dark brown oil. Leather will darken if you put it on the dash while parked in the sun. None of it will be as dark as just applying stain.
Would love more of these crafting mythbusters type episodes!
i recently tested with rit dye. luke warm water, not super hot. soaked over night. black rit dye turned my leather a deep dark purple and then after oiling it, it looks almost black.
in fact i left a picture on the discord of a belt i made using that same leather as keepers. ive also used purple (eggplant) rit dye and its very vibrant after applying a conditioner
rit?
@@LadyVineXIII fabric dye. The liquid is super concentrated and only a few dollars per container. It gets mixed with water and is used for fabric dying but it works well on large pieces of leather as well
@@M4st3r0fN0n3 Good hack to know. Thank you.
worst part of youtube - you cannot like something multiple times xD
deep diving on theory of a technique you do casually: like
actually using logic in your experiments: like
presenting your results in a neutral way (there are no wrong ways, it depends on your goal to achieve): like
being an enthusiastic craftsmen: like
gaining and sharing insight on subjects: like
going back to basics as a pro: like
i definetly forgot some "likes" in there but it really hits home to see you going over such trivial things just to learn new ways :D
And now i'm out to do some projects!
Thanks for your continued inspiration (and advise) :)
Just started using that same mister and it is a life changer! THANKS FOR THE IDEA!!!!
I’m watching this as I prepare to strip and revolve a pair of boots with fiebings regular dye and I now know I need to pretreat with neatsfoot oil. Thank you sir 🫡
Thanks for this video. I have watch so many videos on this subject, and none seem to go as deep as you did. Every question I had while watching this video, you went right into answering it. So you also leveled up your telepathy skill.
wow!! I really love that video!! The experimentations and results you have here are precious! I would really love to see the same kind of video but with the different top coat products and see which one is more resistant! :D
this is really helpful my brother and I just got a leather kit to make some armor, so knowing these dyeing methods is good
I've done application using an air rig to dye a cloak made of upholstery leather. Fiebing's Pro-dye in a 50/50 Kelly green and black. The 1 oz. hobby airbrush kept running out too fast, but gave an interesting mottling similar to the camo from star Wars 6. The larger 2-cup paint spray rig gave a smoother finish. Both gave a lot of overspray. If you try this you need full face PPE! I had dye on my glasses that won't come off, and my filter mask was green afterwards. I still was inhaling some of the dye. Be safe.
I loved this video. Been leatherworking for a year but never really experimented, just stuck with what works.
Thanks for doing this, that bicarbonate trick seems a great way to antique leather
Dude.... You have no idea how much I enjoy watching your videos... I just started watching your stuff this year, and I look forward to each video like no joke. I attempted to make the Alchemist coffee maker and it came out different with my own touch.
How do we show you what we made?
The coffee maker is on my to-do list too. I've never been on Discord but I believe there is an active community there to share projects.
For the more diluted baking soda soaked piece, the flexing streaks on it also kind of look like weathering too, so that's a really good way to get some weathering on the project too
Eyyy this was great! The dauber with the baking soda was really interesting and im SO buying one of those misting cans
So happy i found this after years of leatherworking! It confirms all of the things I had to learn through trial and error! Thanks for making it easy!
So what about sealers and conditioners? Is there a way to bring the suppleness back to those crispier leathers?
You should be able to get some of the suppleness back by applying oil (mink or neatsfoot) or conditioner to the leather after dying. Though, like he showed, applying the oil first gives even coverage and keeps it from getting crispy, so that's probably a better plan.
I have 2 question, First did you have to thin your dye out when you used your mister. And what did you use to clean out the mister if you change colors
super helpful video!!! i only recently got into leatherworking, and the fiebing's dye was my go to as well. i always noticed it left it crispier than i liked lol and tried the eco flo water dye and that was better but still kinda streaky so i definitely will be checking out the pro dye!!!!
The shield is up on Discord and this weekend I'll finish it with the leather addings. Handle wrapping, carrying strap and because it dose have some weight to it, an arm strap for stability. Even I can't wait to see the finished product. 🛡🙂
This covered a lot more bases than I expected it to. +1 subscriber for you, you've earned it. I'm totally stealing that salad mister idea and the baking soda one. I like the idea of caustic coloring to ensure the piece won't bleed color onto other surfaces in use.
Thank you for your tutorial. I am new to dying leather. I purchased a kit from Tandy Leather to make a clutch purse. All the information you provided is very helpful and will be watching the video again a couple of times. I did purchase paint from Tandy Leather however, it talking with an owner of a Saddle / Leather shop he informed me not to use what Tandy told me to purchase which was an acrylic paint. Thank you again and now can't wait to get started.
Great Video! Really interesting to see the differences and for the large part similarities of the dyes and the ways to apply them. And I’m probably going to use oil on my leather before using the oil dye next time.
Excellent video and extremely topical for my current project. I'm making one of Dieselpunk's Dragon masks and wanted to try to blend colors together in an ombre effect. Your using the spray bottle saved me from even bothering with that one. I already own a Preval Sprayer and was leaning towards that, but the mister looked interesting, with less cleanup, assuming you can store dyes long term in one. Thanks again, your enthusiasm is wonderful also.
This video is excellent. Its super comprehensive and I haven't found a single other video this in depth. You're out here doing the Lord's work Cl3ver!
The scientific approach to the testing was really nicely done. I appreciate this video, thank you
I liked it and each technique has it's own effect and purpose for different looks so great job really informative
Holy shit! So much work went into this video. Thank you so much.
Thanks a bunch! I've been looking into dyes recently in an effort to find the shade I'd like to use on leather projects, and this video gave me tons of things to work with!
This video was very comprehensive and answered questions that were arising as I watched this video. Thank you for this.
I love the deep dive! I like watching these while I work on my renaissance fair costume. I’ve learned so much from your channel, so thanks!
I love love love the result of the less baking soda solution (shown at 9:00 ) after you uncurl it, the flex marks? It looks like bark. Really cool. This whole video was great. I love that you don't discount any technique, depending on the results you want, they all work. That all said, I hope you replaced your wife's mister. Happy wife, happy life.
When are you going to do marble and bubble dye? Great vid!
Ive used one of those pressurized lawn misters when dying with great results. If doing a larger item such as a sofa. Oh and the Dawn powewash dish soap bottles are also awsome!
Have you ever had any issues with clogging? How do you go about cleaning the mechanism?
I never would of thought of a mister bottle for leather dye. Genius!!
I made a camouflage look by dropping drops of various colors. Then I let those sit for a few minutes before spreading the dies and stains. Turned out really cool!
I have used MinWax wood dye on my leather and it produces a very rich, vibrant color.
Awesome and so comprehensive! will absolutely use that cheap spray bottle trick for some projects in the near future and am going to get one of those plant sprayers for my new go to leather applicator when I want smooth consistent coverage!
Have you ever tried a color like blue or green? I'm trying to make the Moraine vest from The wheel of time and I can't seem to find a good enough blue to use to get the color I want.
Know that your video is still being watched! My friend wanted pink, but I dont want to buy a whole bottle for one project. The food coloring idea is wonderful. I will let you know how it turns out!
Great deep dive! The tip about pretreating the leather with neatfoots oil before hand will certainly come in handy for me. Thanks! :)
Have you looked into using vingaroon on vegtanned? It makes a nice blue-black.
Exactly what I needed for my next level up. Thank you!
Can you do a test with other dyes? Like tie dyes for fabric?
This was great! Have you considered doing some blues? I have a piece I'm trying to restore but the natural leather has seen better days. I was thinking a dark blue would give it new life. 🤔
Hey, quick question - when applying oil before dyeing, should the oil soak in completely? If no, how long should you wait, and should you wipe off excess when applying? Thanks!
EDIT: Another one popped into my head - have you thinned out your dye when using the mister? If yes, how much? And what have you cleaned it with after using it?
Hello! The way it worked for me was to just add on a thin coat and let it soak in. Should only take a minute or so. At least that's how I did it lol
One thing you can do to keep the leather from curling during the drying process is to put it on a cookie rack which will cause it to dry evenly .... on a flat surface the skin of the leather dries first so it tightens with the flesh side still being wet ... leather shrinks wen it dries
I love this! Thank you
I really enjoyed your science video and all the examples of applications. I would like to leave an honest feedback that it was a little confusing for me to follow on which examples I was being shown. As a person that is completely new to learning leather working, it would really help to add the text on the screen next to the samples labeling what they are. I would not be mad at a re-edit with the labels. Lol. Thank you for being so thorough in your analysis.
I diluted the light brown fiebings leather dye in a ratio of about 1:1 dye to water and dip dyed something and got an amazing result that was similar in colour to your pro dye
I am now curious. What about boiling beets and using the liquid OR using beet paste? Beets have historically been used as a natural vegetable based dye. Also, what about leather cleaners and conditioners? I posted what I use, but I'm curious what others have recommended and how well they work. EDIT: The Fiebings along with similar dyes benefit from a good conditioning after they dry. The crispiness will come right out. Won't save you from that chemical burn that the baking soda did though.
Do you have a recommendation for dying RV captains chairs? Product and method?
Do you have any advice for dying a tan leather split sole jazz boot to dark brown?
I am currently redyeing a pre-war cars leather seats. The leather is much thicker than modern leathers and they have some damage and serious cracking all over. My question is will leather filler paste, which will be required on all seats compromise the adhesion of the dye ? As the leather soaks in the dye I am concerned the filler which hardens when cured will not absorb the dye. I do have patches of leather filler on all seats after final fine sanding .
I've been searching and searching & can't find what I'm lookin for. I'm hoping you can help! I'm using Chamois for projects in one of my classes, but, instead of just having a light blue & tan I wanted to dye it. I know chamois is super soft, would using rit dye or any of these dyes you used in this video make the chamois hard, or bleed if it ever git wet? I have absolutely no experience with hand dying or leathers. Lol but I'm all about the experiment!
Have you ever tried Fiebings Suede and Rough Out dye on smooth leather? I’m really nervous to try it on my boots.
Having owned my own custom leather shop, I found the Fiebing's Pro Dye gave me the most consistent coverage and colors. The water based Eco dyes are okay, but if given a choice I'll almost always opt for the Pro Dyes. Sometimes I oiled the leather before applying the Pro Dye and sometimes it was after applying the dye. Didn't seem to make much difference either way.
I was surprised to see angelus wasn't one of the dyes tested, they have like 30 different dye color's for both leather & suede
This is exactly the video I needed. Great timing.
Since you really liked using the mister for applying stain, I'd recommend trying a different style of mister. They sell misters (call them plant misters i think?) Which work in the same way as weed sprayers, you put the water in, you pump it to build up pressure and then you can apply the mist by just depressing the trigger instead of having to repeatedly pump. Should help given you even more even coverage.
Where did you get the myster? Tandy is out, and any I find leak and is a myst with dye drops.
Question. I have a 25-year-old Natuzzi plum colored leather sofa. My wife wants to change the color to brown. I am an experience commercial painter and have access to spray equipment. What stain do I want to do to the Tuesday leather sofas with. Thank you for your channel.
Ooooh. This is tricky. First, you would need to remove the protective topcoat. Then, the original color would have to eithe be just on the surface or able to be over taken by the new color. Not impossible but tricky for sure
So I don't know if you'll read this but I've got some chamois(shammi) leather that I want to dye but I've no idea which method would be best for such a soft and flexible leather. I'd assume dip dying but getting enough leather dye is A) expensive, and B) difficult for me in the UK.
I was wondering if it's possible to use normal cloth dyes or even just watered down paint on such an absorbant leather. Your experiments with food dye and baking soda here make me think that it might actually be possible and I should probably cut a strip and test it out. I'm wondering if just grabing myself another pot of Tamiya water based model paint, and pouring it into a tub of water, then adding the leather and leaving for a bit, might actually do it or not. I've no idea.
If I can get it dyed then I'm hoping to use it as a soft grip wrap for some of my wood working projects such as wands and swords.
Which dye is best for patent leather?
Try using acetone in a spray bottle randomly spraying leather which has been dyed about 20 minutes prior, this will cause a marbled look which can be very intense. (Note I only use pro dye so I’m not sure how it will affect other dyes)
Awesome work, mate! Done in a scientific way, too. Great comparisons in an easy to follow way. All I can say is...keep levelling up you 🤣
So I have a dying question, I have old pouches which are brown and I would like to dye black. I have heard so many different ways on how to do it. What would you recommend ? Do I sand the leather with fine grit to get rid of the sealant? Do I just dye over the old dye since I am going darker ?? Any help please.
Ooooh. Ok, first keep in mind that, depending on the process used or the type of leather, it just may not come out right. For example, if it is a chrome tanned leather. But, yes, I would hit it with sandpaper to take down the protective coat first. Next, a bit of oil to open the pores back up, then add you new dye. Let me know how it turns out!
@@SkillTree will do… I know you have been into larping and for the less skilled old army ammo pouches work nicely, but the leather is usually off colors. I will take some before and after pictures. Slowly leveling up :)
Do you think I could make a gradient with one of the sprayers? I'm thinking of an autumn ranger with leaf-inspired gear specifically those leaves that you see that are yellow in the center and as it gets further from that yellow it's red, then brown.
I have an old (soft) leather trifold wallet ( light/medium shade of a green) that i just can't let go of. However no matter how much I clean it, it looks dirty; perhaps due to the color lifting from years of cleaning ? Nonetheless is it possible to successfully re dye the wallet?
I dip dyed with Eco Flo oil dye and it is still leaking, really never dried even after a week. It also scratches off super easily. Probably not going to use this dye again. I think I'm sold on the Fiebings Pro Dye.
This was absolutely worth watching
Awesome timing! I'm running low on dyes and I'm definitely going to try out the Fiebing's Pro dyes now. Also buying some neatsfoot oil so I can use my leftover alcohol dyes without the crusty leather effect...
About the food colouring: might give more options for smaller projects, but I'm not at all confident that they will last. Even many alcohol-based dyes have a problem with fading, so I'm thinking food dyes won't be that permanent 😬
Food dyes tend to be pretty fugitive (fade easily). And some of them can 'break' into their constituent colors - black is especially notorious. I have done quite a bit of food color dying on wool. You really need to fix the food color and KoolAid dyes with heat and citric acid, which is fine on wool, but would be problematic on leather, I would think. But it's fun and very safe to dye with KoolAid and other food safe dyes when you are working with kids.
Do you have to use the dye reducer for the mist sprayer?
Not to add more work but does applying a waterproofing agent or bees wax alter the results?
For sure! Both would make it so very little dye stays on the leather. That's how an antique tends to work. You seal the leather first then add the antique. All the parts that aren't sealed or ar deeper (like you get with tooling) will hold on to the dye. The rest just wipes away with very little color change.
These types of videos are great for beginners like me. Cheers, mate🧙♂🧙♂. From downunder.
"Fiebing" would be pronounced fee- (like pee) -bing. The ie sounds in German usually like ee. Hope this helps! Btw, just discovered your channel, and I'm binge watching and learning ❤ thanks!
You can make Leather Armour with backing Soda Mix ! IT colors it antique and hard it Up!
Use 8-10 Oz. Leather !
I’ve just bought a new leather pouf but the colour is not what I expected. What can I do/buy to change the colour to a darker brown antique look? I’m a complete novice !
It would be cool to do a video on different leather paints as well, they’re good for adding colour on top of leather you’ve already dyed
If I do the water and bicarb trick can I save the water and reuse or is it once and done??
Can u do a metal pauldron? Or a leather pouch? Btw yesterday I made the drawstring waxed canvas bag! It’s amazing! Thanks
Have you watched the nutsack video from about a year ago?
@@craigbryant9925 of course
did you use the Reducer with the Mist Bottle?
It’s such a bummer we can’t get any Fiebing’s dye in California, have to use Eco-Flo which isn’t bad, oh and by the way, I love Tandy also!
I need to make brand new baseballs look used for a craft project. Any tips? I don't want it to be perfectly even or anything
A different question how 2 erase a dye u don't like , example it's 2 dark I want 2 put more light into it
Definatly gonna have to rewatch and take notes
I was shocked at how dark some the those light browns were. The pressure sprayer worked amazingly well. I want to try that with some royal blue I have. It was a lot darker than I wanted it to be.
Good stuff - as always. I do have a question though: I am having a hard time getting the Fiebing’s alcohol-based dyes. Amazon won’t ship them to California and none of the local craft stores ever have them in stock. I’m forced to use the water-based dyes which are fine but, ya know - I want to use the alcohol-based dyes! Any suggestions?
Haven’t watched far enough to see results yet, but I love the Fiebings Pro Dyes. For me, they have always given me a much more consistent color then the normal dyes.