Get out of the game mate , or going into some specialised like bms , install for electrics commercial / industrial side is ruined , full of romainians who work for penny’s
@@luluboxingtv2880 What's BMS? I'm a C&G Level 3 2365 holder looking to get in with a company and do the NVQ, but half the sparks I speak to don't even have a gold card anyway
@@louiecullen2318 Building management system (BMS) also known as building automation system (BAS) refers to a computer-based control system that needs to be installed within buildings to monitor and regulate the building's electrical and mechanical equipment such as power system, lighting, and ventilation to confirm sustainability
I have watched several of your videos, and you do amazing work. The 'Consumer Unit' concept is interesting and i see there is a huge difference between circuit protection in the UK and the US. One big difference is you could never have the service wires not protected in a conduit (or some jurisdictions allow a type of cable called Service Entrance (SE) cable) to protect the individual conductors. Another is the loads in the US are much higher. For houses built since the 1980's, or houses that have been upgraded since then, most common service in a single family house is a 240 volt 150 or 200 amp single phase service 3 wire service, where the two wires that have 240 volts across them only have 120 volts to ground due to the transformer having a center tap that is solidly grounded and bonded from the transformer to the breaker panel through the neutral conductor. Lighting, TVs, electronics, washing machines and small cord connected appliances are connected between the neutral and one of the lines and operate with 120 volts, but all large loads use 240 volt circuits. Also, there is a solid connection between the neutral at the house and the neutral at the transformer to clear a fault, and the neutral is not fused or protected by a circuit breaker. Ground fault protection is increasingly being installed at the individual circuits such as in kitchens, laundry areas, damp or wet areas, outdoor circuits, garages, basements, etc., and the latest code requires GFCI protection on 240 volt circuits for dryers, ranges or ovens located within 6 feet of a sink, and an EV receptacle in a garage even requires up to a 50 amp GFCI breaker to be installed in the breaker panel. Last big difference I note is there are no 'ring' circuits in the US. Thus in the US there are many more individual radial circuits for lighting and receptacles. And since the lighting and receptacles are 120 volt circuits, the branch circuit wiring is much thicker, 14 and 12 AWG (2.5 and 4 mm). The typical single family middle class house often has the following 240 volt devices: Air conditioner 25 to 40 amp breaker Electric heat, 9600 watts 60 amp breaker (this is backup heat for heat pump or main source of heat in houses located in areas like Florida where it does not get very cold) Electric water heater 4500 watts 30 amp breaker (some houses use natural gas) Range 40 or 50 amp breaker (some have separate cook top and oven, and some use natural gas for cook top with separate electric oven) Electric dryer 30 amp breaker (very few have natural gas dryer) The above are pretty much standard, but other 240 volt circuits include A 50 to 60 amp breaker these days for EV charging is becoming common in some areas. Hot Tub 40 to 60 amp 2nd air conditioner and electric heat A typical breaker panel will contain from 30 to 40 individual circuits. Larger houses may have a sub panel and some larger houses have 400 amp service, usually feeding two 200 amp breaker panels.
Ring circuits are weird and UK is weird for having them. Their tails aren’t unprotected, though. They’re double insulated cable, just as much as Romex are twin and earth is. Rest of Europe has the same 230-everywhere setups, with by far the most common being 16 amp radials everywhere on 2.5mm^2 cabling. Only Special loads get bigger circuits than that.
I always give myself half a day to change the DB like that one, including testing and doing the certs, electrical work should not be rushed. People that do offers like that are undermining the electrical industry. How can you compete with that. They can not be using fully qualified sparks.
At my previous employer speed was the game, like you said if you set ambitious goals you’ve got something to strive for. I listen to the radio every day and they have certain segments at the same time every day, and I always set goals based on that. Nice board as always!!
Another excellent video, does make me giggle when they it’s done in 1 hour cannot be tested properly if at all! There are some people who rewire a house in a day complete, testing and plastered 🥴 I bet that’s a quality install
I don't think he said they take an hour to change a consumer unit, he said to make it financially viable you would need to do it in an hour. Bet those guys don't don't do any testing or give you any paperwork
Like the work! Just a little question. Removing the distributers cut out is only permissible by them, or the meter company. I see you did this yourself. Whats your thinking on this, and your feelings about doing this.
DNO’s don’t care if you remove the main cutout fuse yourself most electricians have to do this as they need to safely isolate and the DNO won’t do it for you.
@@artisanelectrics when you seal it up, presumably you’re doing so with something that a) is traceable to you and b) is only issued to qualified people, right? And you basically warrant when you do so that you found the seal unmolested and you didn’t run a grow house off the tails before the meter for a while?
I always thought the metering company would need to seal the metering equipment back up afterwards. I wasn’t even aware it was possible to buy a meter sealing kit? Do you need to register a sealing tool with a reference number on the seals?
Bet the 120 quid cu change came without certification. Local chap to us charged 400 quid for a good quality DB upgrade 4 years ago and was with us for most of the day. Good value in my view.
I’m sorry but if this type of work is being offered at a totally unreasonable rate then this should be reported to Napit and Niceic for them to investigate. Enough money is paid in dues to these bodies to stop this type of thing. If somebody is charging this rate we all know the type of installation you are going to get and we know the installation 9/10 is not going to be as easy as this and we know the type of Landlord that would be all over this quote like a bad overcoat. This stuff needs to be addressed by the bodies that say they work for the best interests of the trade.
Those thick brown and blue that comes out the kWh-meter .. are they alowed to be installed like that? I believe here in the Netherlands it is not allowed.
It's nice to be the first craft in on a new construction or a remodel, but any rework / troubleshooting later on can be a challenge. Especially if your access points are boxed in. LoL Your a good craftsman.....
I have done that size in an hour but with it being tested before by other staff that do testing all the time but never £120 cheapest was £380 + vat Inc parts like wispa tail gland
If you want to hit 1h, you should have a look at the Wago TopJob S terminal blocks. That would be an interesting video, as you hardly see electricians outside Germany, Austria, Switzerland using these super useful time savers...
Full test and inspection, although if we have already done an EICR then we will just confirm the test results haven't changed from the previous report to make sure we haven't created any faults with our work.
@@sparkymacsparkface7497 having recently dealt with the DNO at my own home all i can say is yehaaa clippydeclop , they operate to a completly different set of criteria
@@sparkymacsparkface7497 Even when you pull the fuse your relying on the rest of the network to be fault free , you can still take a belt off the neutral if thiers an issue locally
@@artisanelectrics Thanks Jordan that's my take on it as well. Just good to double check as got NICEIC inspection soon so don't want to fail it on that 🙂
What is your thoughts on this just seen an advert for a NICEIC company not a self employed working from say they charge a fixed rate for Eicr for a 10 way consumer unit £139 Inc vat and are based in London but cover all over . What do people here charge for a 3 bed house 10 way unit and what part of the country as the north will be cheaper than London
Is the flexi tails code 6181Y or 6381Y? I struggle to find any wholesalers that sell the 6181Y (19 strand - felxi), as far as I know the 6381Y shouldn't be used as tails but I haven't looked into this much
You need to include plumbing in your repertoire😂nice job. I would avoid trying to give yourself too many time constrained jobs. You will either have to stick to a script which can be thrown off when you start testing and discover an issue. Moreover you will be working like a zombie without thinking and the potential for mistakes goes up. Not what I would call a safe installation. Stick to your quality working methods and always keep thinking and checking things as you go along. That way you give your best.
£120 board change that’s a joke really got to love these people I think you did well to get it done in the time you did it in to be honest. Was that with testing
Great job! Could of only realistically clipped those flex cables or stuck a section of flat trunking up. Was moving the wiring centre an option or just not possible?
Really maybe should do a video exercising your case with the landord to stop being so tight this is what brings our trade down come on sparks we need to stick together to get the prices to where they need to be opposed to bare minimum 🥺
@@artisanelectrics - Hmmm - not sure I would trust that !! - SPD connected directly across the incoming supply (it looks like its connected somehow on the switched side of the main breaker ? ) protected only by the suppliers 60/80/100 A fuse ?
@@Kevin-mp5of Kevin - I know its a surge protector - and uses Metal Oxide Varistors - (MOV) . MOV 's present a high resistance to a circuit under normal conditions hence don't take any appreciable current - but when sudden high voltages occur on a supply such as might happen during a thunderstorm for example - the resistance of the MOV is suddenly lowered, and thus the potentially damaging energy contained in the surge is thus dissipated in the MOV - and not ( hopefully !) passed down stream to sensitive circuits and devices . HOWEVER - for this to work efficiently - the connections to the MOV MUST be short (See BS7671) - since surges are transients of very short duration - hence they contain high frequency components ( well into the MHz's ) and so keeping the leads short ( that's Line, neutral and earth/CPC ) means that the inductive reactance (Xl) due to the self inductance of the connecting leads and their resistance is kept as low as possible . ( ie the total "impedance " (jXl + R) that the MOV "sees" from the source of the transient is kept as low as possible, since Xl is proportional to frequency, Xl = 2 * pi * F * L where L = inductance in Henries, and F = Frequency in Hertz ) . ( by the way -I didn't Google any of this as you suggested - - I happen also to be a Radio Engineer - and also Have an Amateur Radio licence so I'm well used to dealing with transients and high frequencies - and the protection of circuits using high frequency switching such as SMPU's etc ) Now- that is all very well .. but it still follows that we have a device that is connected across the "raw" supply - ( By "Raw" I mean its only "final" protection is the suppliers fuse ) ... and one might argue that it needs protection under its own fault conditions -hence - some manufacturers of SPD's recommend ( and indeed supply in their SPD pack) protection of the SPD by means of a 32A MCB .
@@Kevin-mp5of Kevin - No that is NOT a contradiction - OF COURSE adding an additional component will increase the overall impedance !!!! I KNOW THAT !! BUT.. in this case ....and since it is connected VERY CLOSE - ie adjacent to - the associated SPD in the consumer unit -the additional impedance added is small - but - unavoidable if one is going to add cct protection . It's not a case of "I want to" ... its a case of some SPD suppliers recommend adding protection .
Great video once again Jordan, that was an impossible challenge how the "One Hour Electrician" could carry that work out in an hour God only knows bet it was stuck to the wall with Fixall adhesive, I would love to see the test certificate for his work too bet non of the certificate results matched the actual results in the property. Can I ask you two things, firstly how do you go on for resealing the meter and cut out, do the keyboard warriors not criticise you for filming it (we all have to cut the seal on them to carry out our work) but people seem to pretend to be whiter than white and don't do the seal cutting, second question has Hager not followed every one else on the band wagon that an SPD has to be installed via an RCBO or MCB I got criticised the other week for not installing one on an SPD
People will criticize if they want to but it’s real life this is what we have to do to safely isolate. Regarding the SPDs Hager state that they don’t need OCP device upstream as they have their own protection built in.
@@artisanelectrics I don't see the point of the SPD having to have an OCP device myself that normally is designed to take 6K or 10K when a surge could be a hell of a lot higher and the device is supposed to direct the spike to earth what's the point of it being protected by an MCB when its installed onto the load side of a Main switch prior to anything else in the property
Seriously though, I've said this on other platforms, there are so called 'electricians' amoungst us that are charging themselves out at 15 quid an hour. Cheap 55 quid board and 4 hours, testing if done is extra.
tbh, im kinda glad you didnt do this in an hour! anyone who does is a rubbish sparky! end product was well better than a rush job that could kill someone! 😊
6:50 "issue a satisfactory EICR". Surely now you have completed work, you should be issuing a domestic electrical installation certificate for said works?
Artisan Electrics not strictly true, you wouldn’t have any EICR on a new installation, you’d only have the installation certificate detailing compliance, and for how long
Cannot thank you enough. In trade for 40yrs+ was up against this all the time. This really destroyed me half the guy's i worked with thought it was clever to see who was the quickest irrespective of standard of work .How dense were they not to know it was a race to the bottom.Now nearly retired and glad to get out for health reasons too. Sad to say apart from yourself Artisan who has @ least principles and pride it was the younger sparks who were over competitive and trying to prove themselves @ the expense of ruining the trade.
Hi Jordan Nice try but never going to do it in an hour, it takes longer than that just to do the EICR. Besides if the landlord could get it for £120 why did he go with you then, I get that all the time and I just do EICR I give them my price then thay tell me they can get it for Xamount so I tell the to go with iit then sometimes they come back to me other times I never hear from them again. Some you win some you dont.
Honestly very puzzled that someone could do a CU change in an hour for 120 quid. The wiring would be a complete mess and I don’t even know how they’d be able to afford any RCDs, as RCBOs are clearly out of question. Bizarre.
As far as I am aware, you aren't allowed to tamper with the energy supplier's equipment (electric meter). This would include chopping the seal and removing the tails. An easy way around this is to remove the suppliers fuse and install an isolator so the tails can be extended. Plus, if there was evidence of you tampering with the meter then surely you could be blamed if someone ends up bypassing it, even at a later date?
I think this video is very dangerous as it doesn't show the electrical supply from the supplier being turned off. I'm not a qualified electrician but I do know that unless the main fuse on the suppliers gear isn't removed then those tails Jordan was waving about would have been live and deadly
I’m sorry but if there are people offering these totally unrealistic quotes then the bodies of Napit and the Niceic should be informed and they should be looking into the quality of work, enough dues are paid to them to look out for the trades they profess to represent. We know the standard of work you are going to get at that rate and 9/10 they are not going to be as easy as this install. We also know the type of Landlord that are going to be all over this like a cheap overcoat.
How is electrical wiring tested?The quick way and incomplete way in my non qualified opinion is to use the special plugs with leds.But what about everything else?Every single wire un terminated and tested for eth leakage,short ccts etc?Would take ages,but,if the consumer unit was circuit breaker type,any faults should trip the breaker?
Yeah.. 1 h.. would have been a wonder. But wouldn't there be a requirement to replace the powermeter with a new digital one, that can transmit the data through the electric wire?
And that was a easy board try doing one in a cupboard no room cables coming from every direction got to put new wooden board up cos its coming away from wall new talls full test 120 bullshit got asked by letting agent other day can i beat 50 pound for a eicr cos they got someone for that price they try it on
Watch a more in depth Consumer Unit Replacement I did here: th-cam.com/video/DrBoGjUk5Zs/w-d-xo.html
Currently doing my first year apprenticeship , all videos are top notch and making it easier to learn
Awesome!
Get out of the game mate , or going into some specialised like bms , install for electrics commercial / industrial side is ruined , full of romainians who work for penny’s
@@luluboxingtv2880 What's BMS?
I'm a C&G Level 3 2365 holder looking to get in with a company and do the NVQ, but half the sparks I speak to don't even have a gold card anyway
@@louiecullen2318 Building management system
(BMS) also known as building automation system (BAS) refers to a computer-based control system that needs to be installed within buildings to monitor and regulate the building's electrical and mechanical equipment such as power system, lighting, and ventilation to confirm sustainability
I have watched several of your videos, and you do amazing work.
The 'Consumer Unit' concept is interesting and i see there is a huge difference between circuit protection in the UK and the US.
One big difference is you could never have the service wires not protected in a conduit (or some jurisdictions allow a type of cable called Service Entrance (SE) cable) to protect the individual conductors.
Another is the loads in the US are much higher. For houses built since the 1980's, or houses that have been upgraded since then, most common service in a single family house is a 240 volt 150 or 200 amp single phase service 3 wire service, where the two wires that have 240 volts across them only have 120 volts to ground due to the transformer having a center tap that is solidly grounded and bonded from the transformer to the breaker panel through the neutral conductor.
Lighting, TVs, electronics, washing machines and small cord connected appliances are connected between the neutral and one of the lines and operate with 120 volts, but all large loads use 240 volt circuits.
Also, there is a solid connection between the neutral at the house and the neutral at the transformer to clear a fault, and the neutral is not fused or protected by a circuit breaker. Ground fault protection is increasingly being installed at the individual circuits such as in kitchens, laundry areas, damp or wet areas, outdoor circuits, garages, basements, etc., and the latest code requires GFCI protection on 240 volt circuits for dryers, ranges or ovens located within 6 feet of a sink, and an EV receptacle in a garage even requires up to a 50 amp GFCI breaker to be installed in the breaker panel.
Last big difference I note is there are no 'ring' circuits in the US. Thus in the US there are many more individual radial circuits for lighting and receptacles. And since the lighting and receptacles are 120 volt circuits, the branch circuit wiring is much thicker, 14 and 12 AWG (2.5 and 4 mm).
The typical single family middle class house often has the following 240 volt devices:
Air conditioner 25 to 40 amp breaker
Electric heat, 9600 watts 60 amp breaker (this is backup heat for heat pump or main source of heat in houses located in areas like Florida where it does not get very cold)
Electric water heater 4500 watts 30 amp breaker (some houses use natural gas)
Range 40 or 50 amp breaker (some have separate cook top and oven, and some use natural gas for cook top with separate electric oven)
Electric dryer 30 amp breaker (very few have natural gas dryer)
The above are pretty much standard, but other 240 volt circuits include
A 50 to 60 amp breaker these days for EV charging is becoming common in some areas.
Hot Tub 40 to 60 amp
2nd air conditioner and electric heat
A typical breaker panel will contain from 30 to 40 individual circuits. Larger houses may have a sub panel and some larger houses have 400 amp service, usually feeding two 200 amp breaker panels.
Ring circuits are weird and UK is weird for having them. Their tails aren’t unprotected, though. They’re double insulated cable, just as much as Romex are twin and earth is.
Rest of Europe has the same 230-everywhere setups, with by far the most common being 16 amp radials everywhere on 2.5mm^2 cabling. Only Special loads get bigger circuits than that.
I always give myself half a day to change the DB like that one, including testing and doing the certs, electrical work should not be rushed. People that do offers like that are undermining the electrical industry. How can you compete with that. They can not be using fully qualified sparks.
Cracking job Jordan, there is just no way somebody can do a decent job of a board swap in that amount of time!
Thanks! Totally agree!
At my previous employer speed was the game, like you said if you set ambitious goals you’ve got something to strive for. I listen to the radio every day and they have certain segments at the same time every day, and I always set goals based on that. Nice board as always!!
Haha radio goals i like it! Thanks
I’d be interested in seeing what tools you use for sealing the main fuse. Maybe one for @tools4sparks?
Just what I was thinking
@@crumps84 A wax seal heated by a candle...
What cable clips did you use for the meter tails? I can't find ones that look like that online anywhere.
Another cracking and interesting video. Glad to see you use quality products, and are not lowering your standards,
Thanks 😊
Another excellent video, does make me giggle when they it’s done in 1 hour cannot be tested properly if at all! There are some people who rewire a house in a day complete, testing and plastered 🥴 I bet that’s a quality install
I don't think he said they take an hour to change a consumer unit, he said to make it financially viable you would need to do it in an hour. Bet those guys don't don't do any testing or give you any paperwork
I would love to see the state of one of those one day rewires😃
Me too! 🤦♂️
Thanks for the video. What was the date of the next EICR?
Do you have to use SPD or can it be just rcd with metal cladding?
Thanks
I didn’t realise Sparks were aloud to permitted to seal the meter and cutout? Does it depend on which area you are in?
Like the work! Just a little question. Removing the distributers cut out is only permissible by them, or the meter company. I see you did this yourself. Whats your thinking on this, and your feelings about doing this.
DNO’s don’t care if you remove the main cutout fuse yourself most electricians have to do this as they need to safely isolate and the DNO won’t do it for you.
@@artisanelectrics when you seal it up, presumably you’re doing so with something that a) is traceable to you and b) is only issued to qualified people, right? And you basically warrant when you do so that you found the seal unmolested and you didn’t run a grow house off the tails before the meter for a while?
Interested to see your meter sealer tool and where you got it from , nice video 👍
EBay 👍
Have you got a link as I couldn’t find it , thanks
He probably nicked the meter sealer Npower meter fitters have there initial on the sealer so if there's any problem they know who made the seals
I thought of the energy provider can access the cut out fuse and meter as the seals are marked with unique numbers 🤔
@@tylerbarker9535 Not they don't just their Abbreviation like BG on ours. There's not enough space to code it...
5:42 Can you explain the reseal of the Service supply Cut Out and what type of sealing kit do you use?
Beautiful job
I always thought the metering company would need to seal the metering equipment back up afterwards. I wasn’t even aware it was possible to buy a meter sealing kit? Do you need to register a sealing tool with a reference number on the seals?
How much would a 6 way RCBO cost with certification? Also, is BG (Screwfix / Toolstation) brands inferior to Hager? Please elaborate. Thanks 😊
Bet the 120 quid cu change came without certification. Local chap to us charged 400 quid for a good quality DB upgrade 4 years ago and was with us for most of the day. Good value in my view.
What method did you use/ do you normally use to enter the tails into the board?
Either a wiska gland or the standard gland Hager provides depending on the situation
Tidy install!😎👌
Great video Steve!
Hi can I ask how much should I pay for installing consumer unit?
Love your labelling!
0liver 0verson thanks 😊
I’m sorry but if this type of work is being offered at a totally unreasonable rate then this should be reported to Napit and Niceic for them to investigate. Enough money is paid in dues to these bodies to stop this type of thing. If somebody is charging this rate we all know the type of installation you are going to get and we know the installation 9/10 is not going to be as easy as this and we know the type of Landlord that would be all over this quote like a bad overcoat. This stuff needs to be addressed by the bodies that say they work for the best interests of the trade.
How do you switch the mains electricity off before disconnecting the old consumer unit??
6:48 “All good” - sounds like Ollie from Drain Addict 😀
No corn for Ratty tho!!
Hello fellow Addict!
@@callumBee 👋👋👋😂
No marching either 😕
Richard Pike Yes got to get the arms swinging in slo-mo and totally out of sync with the walking 👍
Those thick brown and blue that comes out the kWh-meter .. are they alowed to be installed like that? I believe here in the Netherlands it is not allowed.
Where did u buy this type of safety label
The pictorial stickers on the RCBOs for circuits 2 and 3 were the wrong way around.
Bore off
Josh Stephenson Valuable input 🤦♂️
ddfann where do you work
Josh Stephenson What’s that got to do with anything?
It's nice to be the first craft in on a new construction or a remodel, but any rework / troubleshooting later on can be a challenge. Especially if your access points are boxed in. LoL Your a good craftsman.....
How much would this cost?Thanks
It would have been interesting for the landlord to get it done then get yourself to inspect it and see what they have done and if they cut any corners
😂
Jordan? Is doing consumer units are very hard ?
It’s probably one of the more challenging parts of the job if you want to do it neatly but it is very rewarding!
Issue a satisfactory EICR ?is that after a completion certificate for the board?
I have done that size in an hour but with it being tested before by other staff that do testing all the time but never £120 cheapest was £380 + vat Inc parts like wispa tail gland
Thanks
Welcome
Does that need replacing tho, complies when it was install few years ago. C3 on EICR.
Can you or another spark tuber show the hole once you have sealed it? want to see if its a messy as when i do it :D
😂
Absolutely no need to seal that rear entry hole for fire rating . The boards are designed and tested to not require it.
If you want to hit 1h, you should have a look at the Wago TopJob S terminal blocks. That would be an interesting video, as you hardly see electricians outside Germany, Austria, Switzerland using these super useful time savers...
Im from Norway and I have never seen these before
Just wondering why no 100amp electricity meter isolating switch fitted as you pulled the incoming fuse anyway. I always fit one
Little tip All round band on the meter tails and earth would look nicer over cleats 👍 good job tho mate
I don't like the look of all round band to be honest
What extent of a test do you do when you do a board change
Full test and inspection, although if we have already done an EICR then we will just confirm the test results haven't changed from the previous report to make sure we haven't created any faults with our work.
Did You cut the distribution fuse seals?
Yeah its the only way to safely isolate the tails to work on them if there's not a main isolator provided by the DNO
Artisan Electrics We would end up in court if we were to cut the seals where I live, it’s a big no no.
youre allowed to pull the mains fuses? i was hoping to have mine changed, i didn't know they could do that.
Yeah we have to if there is no main isolator switch.
Yeah you’re right that explains it quite well
Yeah that’s a really good point
@@sparkymacsparkface7497 having recently dealt with the DNO at my own home all i can say is yehaaa clippydeclop , they operate to a completly different set of criteria
@@sparkymacsparkface7497 Even when you pull the fuse your relying on the rest of the network to be fault free , you can still take a belt off the neutral if thiers an issue locally
I'm interested to know is the fire sealant foam actually a requirement or not. Hear different opinions.
It’s not in my opinion as the board doesn’t need to be fire rated it just needs to be made of non combustible material there’s a big difference.
@@artisanelectrics Thanks Jordan that's my take on it as well. Just good to double check as got NICEIC inspection soon so don't want to fail it on that 🙂
They won’t check that I don’t think
What is your thoughts on this just seen an advert for a NICEIC company not a self employed working from say they charge a fixed rate for Eicr for a 10 way consumer unit £139 Inc vat and are based in London but cover all over . What do people here charge for a 3 bed house 10 way unit and what part of the country as the north will be cheaper than London
Personally always use a wiska gland for the tails.
Me too, but not if i was doing a 120 quid consumer unit change
Curtis J for the sake of £7 makes the job look a lot better. But I know what you mean
Yeah I love those wiska glands
Got a nice 40mm armeg holesaw especially!
@@artisanelectrics specifically?
No fire proofing foam in the hole behind the board??
Not necessary
Great job, very neat
Thanks! 👍
I thought 18th states if board does not have rcd then rcbo have to be used?
Is the flexi tails code 6181Y or 6381Y? I struggle to find any wholesalers that sell the 6181Y (19 strand - felxi), as far as I know the 6381Y shouldn't be used as tails but I haven't looked into this much
Not sure to be honest
What's the cost for this job?
The icons for Extension sockets and Lighting Extension (RCBO's 2 & 3) are reversed.
Yeah well spotted!
Bloody hell - you should have got the supply authority to change the cable head and metering equipment as well 😃
One hour is impossible. Only the PAT test is an hour. No need for double isolation from the meter?
Looks good!
Brilliant job again. Really liked (:
Thanks!
Elektirik sayacı içeride bizde dışarıda olsa bile hem sayaç hemde pano iç kapak mühürlendiği halde kaçak elektirik kullanıyorlar .
Circuits 2 &3 the pictorial and label seem to be reversed.Cheers, Gordon
Yeah my mistake, I was rushing! 😂
Sorry - I was nit-picking, it was a excellent bit of work, much better than some other CU swaps shown in other TH-cam channels 🤩, Cheers, Gordon
Why ask another tradesman to match a silly quote for a job though?............Most likely because the silly quote doesn't really exist 👍
Yeah haha true
So how long did it take then ? Obviously longer than an hour
Half a day with testing
You need to include plumbing in your repertoire😂nice job. I would avoid trying to give yourself too many time constrained jobs. You will either have to stick to a script which can be thrown off when you start testing and discover an issue. Moreover you will be working like a zombie without thinking and the potential for mistakes goes up. Not what I would call a safe installation. Stick to your quality working methods and always keep thinking and checking things as you go along. That way you give your best.
£120 board change that’s a joke really got to love these people I think you did well to get it done in the time you did it in to be honest. Was that with testing
Half day with testing
Artisan Electrics yes I would expect the jordon like you say there aren’t many circuits to test. Keep up the good work matey 👍
Thanks a lot!
Scrimping on a new earth bar
Great video mate, would love to know where you got the new meter seals from, the ones I have aren't the best. thanks!
Got em off eBay
Great job! Could of only realistically clipped those flex cables or stuck a section of flat trunking up. Was moving the wiring centre an option or just not possible?
Not possible
Nice one Jordan, great work as usual. It’s nice to set goals. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
Surely the new board and fittings will cost you at least £100 with vat ?
Exactly
Are ways 2 and 3 labelled the wrong way around? Pictograms and wire diameters don't look consistent with the Brother label :-/
Yeah they are... stupid mistake on my part...
@@artisanelectrics "I wondered who'd be the first to spot that" - Captain Mainwaring
Haha true
Yeah so annoying I can’t believe I didn’t spot that 🤦♂️
Spelling error I meant spot
I can’t believe you didn’t know how many hours this would take before you started? How do u price up a job ? What would u quote a customer.
Really maybe should do a video exercising your case with the landord to stop being so tight this is what brings our trade down come on sparks we need to stick together to get the prices to where they need to be opposed to bare minimum 🥺
neat board connections, shame the meter tails look untidy
Paul T thanks
Shouldn't there be a breaker (mcb) to protect the Surge protection device ?
It has its own protection built in
@@artisanelectrics - Hmmm - not sure I would trust that !! - SPD connected directly across the incoming supply (it looks like its connected somehow on the switched side of the main breaker ? ) protected only by the suppliers 60/80/100 A fuse ?
@@Kevin-mp5of Kevin - I know its a surge protector - and uses Metal Oxide Varistors - (MOV) .
MOV 's present a high resistance to a circuit under normal conditions hence don't take any appreciable current - but when sudden high voltages occur on a supply such as might happen during a thunderstorm for example - the resistance of the MOV is suddenly lowered, and thus the potentially damaging energy contained in the surge is thus dissipated in the MOV - and not ( hopefully !) passed down stream to sensitive circuits and devices .
HOWEVER - for this to work efficiently - the connections to the MOV MUST be short (See BS7671) - since surges are transients of very short duration - hence they contain high frequency components ( well into the MHz's ) and so keeping the leads short ( that's Line, neutral and earth/CPC ) means that the inductive reactance (Xl) due to the self inductance of the connecting leads and their resistance is kept as low as possible . ( ie the total "impedance " (jXl + R) that the MOV "sees" from the source of the transient is kept as low as possible, since Xl is proportional to frequency, Xl = 2 * pi * F * L where L = inductance in Henries, and F = Frequency in Hertz ) .
( by the way -I didn't Google any of this as you suggested - - I happen also to be a Radio Engineer - and also Have an Amateur Radio licence so I'm well used to dealing with transients and high frequencies - and the protection of circuits using high frequency switching such as SMPU's etc )
Now- that is all very well .. but it still follows that we have a device that is connected across the "raw" supply - ( By "Raw" I mean its only "final" protection is the suppliers fuse ) ... and one might argue that it needs protection under its own fault conditions -hence - some manufacturers of SPD's recommend ( and indeed supply in their SPD pack) protection of the SPD by means of a 32A MCB .
@@Kevin-mp5of Kevin - No that is NOT a contradiction -
OF COURSE adding an additional component will increase the overall impedance !!!! I KNOW THAT !!
BUT.. in this case ....and since it is connected VERY CLOSE - ie adjacent to - the associated SPD in the consumer unit -the additional impedance added is small - but - unavoidable if one is going to add cct protection .
It's not a case of "I want to" ... its a case of some SPD suppliers recommend adding protection .
Great video once again Jordan, that was an impossible challenge how the "One Hour Electrician" could carry that work out in an hour God only knows bet it was stuck to the wall with Fixall adhesive, I would love to see the test certificate for his work too bet non of the certificate results matched the actual results in the property.
Can I ask you two things, firstly how do you go on for resealing the meter and cut out, do the keyboard warriors not criticise you for filming it (we all have to cut the seal on them to carry out our work) but people seem to pretend to be whiter than white and don't do the seal cutting, second question has Hager not followed every one else on the band wagon that an SPD has to be installed via an RCBO or MCB I got criticised the other week for not installing one on an SPD
People will criticize if they want to but it’s real life this is what we have to do to safely isolate. Regarding the SPDs Hager state that they don’t need OCP device upstream as they have their own protection built in.
@@artisanelectrics I don't see the point of the SPD having to have an OCP device myself that normally is designed to take 6K or 10K when a surge could be a hell of a lot higher and the device is supposed to direct the spike to earth what's the point of it being protected by an MCB when its installed onto the load side of a Main switch prior to anything else in the property
Exactly
Seriously though, I've said this on other platforms, there are so called 'electricians' amoungst us that are charging themselves out at 15 quid an hour. Cheap 55 quid board and 4 hours, testing if done is extra.
😭
tbh, im kinda glad you didnt do this in an hour! anyone who does is a rubbish sparky!
end product was well better than a rush job that could kill someone! 😊
I agree!
6:50 "issue a satisfactory EICR". Surely now you have completed work, you should be issuing a domestic electrical installation certificate for said works?
Yes of course we did that but also issued a satisfactory EICR as well.
Why would you do that?
Because they have to have a satisfactory EICR for the landlord to be able to rent the place out
Artisan Electrics not strictly true, you wouldn’t have any EICR on a new installation, you’d only have the installation certificate detailing compliance, and for how long
Tim Gray yeah not sure where new builds fall on that to be honest... will have to check the GOV prs guidelines
Cannot thank you enough. In trade for 40yrs+ was up against this all the time. This really destroyed me half the guy's i worked with thought it was clever to see who was the quickest irrespective of standard of work .How dense were they not to know it was a race to the bottom.Now nearly retired and glad to get out for health reasons too. Sad to say apart from yourself Artisan who has @ least principles and pride it was the younger sparks who were over competitive and trying to prove themselves @ the expense of ruining the trade.
Thanks for your comments and for watching my channel! 👍
Where's live isolation switch 🤔 😊
Hi Jordan Nice try but never going to do it in an hour, it takes longer than that just to do the EICR. Besides if the landlord could get it for £120 why did he go with you then, I get that all the time and I just do EICR I give them my price then thay tell me they can get it for Xamount so I tell the to go with iit then sometimes they come back to me other times I never hear from them again. Some you win some you dont.
Totally agree with you!
I call it "totem pole effect"....If you aim high you may occasionally fall short, aim low you'll never reach the top !
True! Love it
Good job👍👍
Just out of curiosity how tall are u😂😂
5”11
@@artisanelectrics I'm not convinced that was the type of 'tall' he was asking about 🙄
Don't you use ferruless in UK?
Next time add a clock on the timelapse 😉
Haha good idea
Honestly very puzzled that someone could do a CU change in an hour for 120 quid. The wiring would be a complete mess and I don’t even know how they’d be able to afford any RCDs, as RCBOs are clearly out of question. Bizarre.
Totally
chopped the meter seal?
Yep
no isoloater so had no choice
@@craigdonnigan618 install an isolator then?
@@alexkane07 why should he install an isolator thats the electricity suppliers responsibility, not the DNO or the customer
As far as I am aware, you aren't allowed to tamper with the energy supplier's equipment (electric meter). This would include chopping the seal and removing the tails. An easy way around this is to remove the suppliers fuse and install an isolator so the tails can be extended. Plus, if there was evidence of you tampering with the meter then surely you could be blamed if someone ends up bypassing it, even at a later date?
Could change the CU in a hour, but thats it. Everything else is extras HAHA
Yeah, the new one would be on the wall with nothing connected, and no testing would have been done either😃😁
😂
Have you got the number of the guy doing it for £120.00?
I don't care one hour 20 hours😂😂
I think this video is very dangerous as it doesn't show the electrical supply from the supplier being turned off. I'm not a qualified electrician but I do know that unless the main fuse on the suppliers gear isn't removed then those tails Jordan was waving about would have been live and deadly
He pulled the main cut out fuse. You actually se him with it removed quite early on and he resealed it at the y
*end
Hence "I'm not a
qualified electrician"
To be honest if any sparks couldn't fit a single row consumer unit in an hour he she might as well look for a new job.
I’m sorry but if there are people offering these totally unrealistic quotes then the bodies of Napit and the Niceic should be informed and they should be looking into the quality of work, enough dues are paid to them to look out for the trades they profess to represent. We know the standard of work you are going to get at that rate and 9/10 they are not going to be as easy as this install. We also know the type of Landlord that are going to be all over this like a cheap overcoat.
Thanks great comment.
It's called a loss leader.
2 hours I would of done that in 30mins flat.
How is electrical wiring tested?The quick way and incomplete way in my non qualified opinion is to use the special plugs with leds.But what about everything else?Every single wire un terminated and tested for eth leakage,short ccts etc?Would take ages,but,if the consumer unit was circuit breaker type,any faults should trip the breaker?
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Anyone know why there wasn’t a DB with RCD protection installed?
Was there a reason?
So it looks like these 1hr guys, just throw the consumer unit at the wall.
2500?
Yeah.. 1 h.. would have been a wonder. But wouldn't there be a requirement to replace the powermeter with a new digital one, that can transmit the data through the electric wire?
Not required yet here
I could do that in an hour with a duel rcd board but no way I'd charge 120 pound next board change I do I'll do a vid
Nice looking forward to that video
And that was a easy board try doing one in a cupboard no room cables coming from every direction got to put new wooden board up cos its coming away from wall new talls full test 120 bullshit got asked by letting agent other day can i beat 50 pound for a eicr cos they got someone for that price they try it on
That’s madness
No way can it be done to a decent standard in 1 hour , you will spend an hour just testing it
Yeah I know what you mean!
@@artisanelectrics half a day minimum
Yep