You’re so Controlling! Replacing the front lower control arms on my 1997 TJ
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ต.ค. 2021
- The bushings in the front control arms look like they might be giving up the ghost. That, coupled with a sense of “sway” from the front makes me want to replace the control arms. It’s relatively cheap when it comes to parts. In this video, I tackle the front lower control arms. The lower control arms have cam bolts, which I’ll demonstrate replacing.
Torques: Axle bracket bolts get 85 ft-lbs. Frame bracket bolts get 130 ft-lbs.
Next project is replacing the upper control arms - be sure to subscribe to catch that episode.
Project TJ is the chronicling of working on my 1997 Jeep Wrangler. It's the SE version of a TJ with a 2.5L four cylinder and a standard transmission. At the time of making this video, the Jeep had ~205,500 miles on it.
I hope you enjoy! Subscribe to the channel and if you’re interested, you can support me on BuyMeACoffee at www.buymeacoffee.com/edvancise
Tools (includes Amazon Affiliate link):
• Torque Wrench (for 85 and 130 ft-lbs)
• 21mm, 13/16”, and 7/8” sockets and wrenches
• Impact gun or breaker bar
Parts (some links are Amazon Affiliate links):
• ACDelco Professional 45K0181 Front Caster/Pinion Angle Bolt Kit with Cams and Nuts (amzn.to/3e61HIN)
• Detroit Axle - Front Upper and Lower Control Arms Replacement for 1997-2006 Jeep Wrangler TJ - 4pc Set (amzn.to/3E5BqF6)
• Metric hex bolts, Zinc plated class 10.9 steel, 14mm x 2.0mm x 100mm (qty. 2) (www.boltdepot.com/Product-Det...)
• Metric hex nuts, Zinc plated class 10.9 steel, 14mm x 2.0mm (qty. 2) (www.boltdepot.com/Product-Det...)
• Metric flat washers, Zinc plated class 10.9 steel, 14mm (qty. 2) (www.boltdepot.com/Product-Det...)
Disclaimers:
This video is NOT sponsored by any of the brands mentioned throughout this video or video description. All thoughts mentioned are my own. Some links provided are affiliate links. They do not cost you anything, but I make a small percentage from the sale. Honesty is key on my channel, thank you for supporting me!
I am a Do It Yourself, also known as DIY, mechanic. I am NOT a professional mechanic. I do not have any formal training in the automotive field. I assume no liability for anything you choose to do to your car/vehicle or equipment before or after watching one of my videos. All DIY repairs or modifications you perform are made at your own risk. Sometimes, even if you've done everything the right way, you can destroy or damage one or more things on your car or equipment. You must understand this, but by leveraging knowledge and patience, the probability of encountering one or more problems can be reduced.
Also, if for some unfortunate reason, I do give incorrect instructions and something breaks because you followed my instructions, I will NOT reimburse or pay in any way for whatever cost that may be incurred due to following my wrong instructions.
Lastly, please don't do anything to your vehicle or equipment unless you yourself feel comfortable and confident in doing so. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Check out the video description for extra info, parts, tools, torques, and any updates.
I'm just a DIY guy and do the required maintenance on my Jeep. This is probably the BEST instructional video I've ever watched for Jeep repair. Thank you!!
Thanks, and thanks for watching! Good luck with all of your projects.
Excellent video! I liked your attention to detail with the cam bolt, thank you Ed 👍
Thanks for watching and the feedback, Shawn! The cam bolt part was something I didn’t find in great detail in my searches. It just happened, it seemed. I wanted to put the extra detail in to help fill that gap. Once you do it, it seems obvious, but at least to me it seemed pretty daunting before doing it the first time.
Thanks for posting about the cam bolts
Thanks for watching
Nice video production , captured everything in depth.
Good job mate
Thanks!
Good idea preloading the rust.
#rustislife
Great video Ed! Been there and done that but with the rusted cam bolt to the control arm. I am surprised you didn't have one(considering how TDSR had done you in the past). Shout out in my lasted video. Maybe it will help.
Thanks, Steve! After your video of doing it on JJ i was fearing the worst but it worked out surprisingly well. Probably waiting for me with the upper arms, though.
Thanks for the shout out and congrats on your hitting 3K subscribers, by the way!
I'm going to replace my upper control arm bushings first as the are falling apart . Next I will follow you example and replace the lower control arms next . Thank god they come with the bushings pre-installed. Have watched others and none have shown how to mark and use the cam the way you did. Considered installing adjustable control arms but having and front end Alignment will cost 2-3 time as much.
If you haven't already, be sure to check out my video on the upper control arms (th-cam.com/video/2C6aMzDXL0k/w-d-xo.html). They're their own level of "fun" due to the bushings. I'm right there with you - really glad the lowers come with all the bushings and I too chose to stick with stock length control arms. The geometry for the lift and tires currently on the TJ is rock solid and I really didn't want to mess with that. Especially on a '97 that's not going to see a whole lot of obstacles.
very good video and well explain!! is this tj lifted or is it stock ?
Thanks for watching, Nikos! In this video I had a 2.5” spacer lift installed. In a future video, I replace that with a 2.5” suspension lift.
Well done and great filming also . I assume you simply transferred the old cam mark to the new one before you put the on. but did not see that in the video. It looked like you simply marked it without comparing it to the original one you marked when you took it off. or did you clean up the old ones and remark the after.
The way I did it is that I marked the old cam bolt at the long "tip" of the lobe (furthest point from the bolt head) and then marked on the frame where that point was located (straight line across that lobe point to the frame). Then, on the new bolt, I marked the same "tip" of the lobe. When I installed the new cam bolt, then, I just needed to align the longest point on the cam (paint mark) with the spot on the frame where the previous cam paint mark was made and then the cams are in the same position. To improve accuracy, you could put the two cams next to each other and/or somehow else measure them to match measurements, but I didn't go to that level.
I hope that helps, thanks for watching, and good luck on yours, James.
Lmao I never met a lower control arm I didn't have to cut off :)
I consider myself lucky then!
Do you think the Ratchet Straps help with this job. Or can it be done with out it?
They definitely help! But are they necessary? If you do it like I did, I’d say yes. But if you loosen all your control arms, disconnect the sway bar, and disconnect the track bar, you can probably do it without ratchet straps. But I don’t know for sure. Just be sure the Jeep is sitting on its wheels when you torque all the bolts back.
I hope that helps. Thanks for watching!
So you don’t have to jack up the car
Nope, you can keep the wheels on the ground. If you do jack it up, make sure all four tires are on the ground before you torque the control arm bolts. That way you're sure that the bushings don't get bound out when the vehicle's weight is on the suspension.
Thanks for watching, Angel.