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@@umanahector You won’t regret it! This was a really awesome enhancement for us. Thanks for watching.

Here are some thoughts. I hesitate to say it's advice since the 5.7 hemi is something far from the I-4 and V6s that I've worked on. One general concern I'd have is if something truly snapped/broke off, you might have loose plastic in the system that could get into engine and block coolant flow. That could quickly lead to overheating. If the petcock is like the one in my video, you should be able to completely remove it. That'll drain most of your coolant (be ready for that!) but you'd be able to see what (if anything) of the petcock is broken (or the plastic threads of the radiator). If you're unable to get fluid to drain via the petcock now, you can remove the lower radiator hose and "drain" (in a rush!) the coolant that way. Just be ready for a large amount of coolant all at once. Maybe that'll also draw any plastic bits out and into the bucket. If it were a vehicle I was working on, I'd go after the above things first (and have a new petcock at the ready in the hopes that it's as simple as putting in a new one) before taking it to a shop. A shop will most likely just want you to replace the radiator (which you can probably do yourself) since it's not known if the problem is the petcock or the radiator threads. They might also suggest things way more invasive just in case plastic bits got into the engine. Not sure if that helps or not. I feel obligated to also make sure you read my disclaimer in the video description(s) - I'm just a lowly DIY homegrown garage wrencher. Good luck with your Challenger! Great car!

@@CarbonsDIYGarage Thanks for the info. I've watched a few videos on the somewhat crude extraction, which includes heating up a small straight screwdriver and quickly, but carefully pushing it into the plastic remnants of the valve, and turning just enough to open the valve to hopefully have a normal drain, then carefully removing it all together. I'll have to remove the so-called broken outer adjuster first, so I hope that all goes well. I'm going to the parts store now to order the valve. Thanks again for your quick response!! Barry

@@shanecoon859 For as long as we owned it, it was rock solid after doing this. Really happy with the results. Thanks for watching, Shane.

@@jasonscharf97tj Thanks Jason and good luck on this next project. It was such a great feeling to have a fresh front end on this ol’ gal.

Thanks for watching.

If you follow the link to the part that’s in the video description you can confirm that it fits your specific year/make/model. If it doesn’t, contact them. Give them your VIN number and I’m betting they’ll have one that fits your car. Good luck and thanks for watching.

​@CarbonsDIYGarage It says incompatible but the part looks identical

@@andrewgonzalez9244 I would contact the seller and ask them. A lot of parts can use the same outer casing but have different guts inside.

Thanks for the sub and thanks for watching!

I'm glad the video helped and I hope the new valve helps out with the oil burning! If it's any consolation, pretty much from day 1 I got my 2011, I've "lost" about 1 quart (give or take) every 1,000 to 1,500 miles, so about 1 quart every 4 weeks. Not nearly what you're losing but the 3.8 liter engines seem to have this problem. Thanks for watching!

The key is that you have to enable your phone as a hotspot and then connect the AutoSky to your phone's hotspot. From there, the AutoSky can then reach the internet and you can run Netflix, TH-cam, and also access the Google Play Store that's on the Autosky and update the apps already installed (and maybe download new apps? I never tried). I no longer have this at home, I gave it to a buddy that loves it but I'm not able to make a video for you. This video basically shows you what I mention above, though. th-cam.com/video/moUNPKlhqA0/w-d-xo.htmlsi=QNr6F4qBOS9qyBhQ I hope that helps! Thanks for watching.

Mark, check out this video I made on replacing the computer in my TJ. th-cam.com/video/ynBw6q95NTA/w-d-xo.html This is where I got the new one: www.fs1inc.com/engine-computer-programmed-plug-play-1997-jeep-wrangler-4886678-05014152aa-2-5l-ecu-ecm-pcm-oem.html Also check out wranglerfix.com I hope that helps. Good luck and thanks for watching.

Thanks for watching and the well wishes! I'm in hot & humid southeast Texas...

It could be a faulty sensor. It could also be your thermostat. If your thermostat is stuck closed, you won't get cooling from the radiator. Once your car is running and shows at operating temperature, carefully feel both the top and bottom hoses to the radiator. If there's coolant flow, both hoses should be hot. If they're not, you're not flowing hot coolant through the radiator and it's probably a thermostat problem. If both hoses are hot, it could be the sensor. Sensor is pretty cheap (so is thermostat). If you're not certain, start with sensor because you can replace it without draining the fluid. I'm not an expert mechanic, though, so use your own judgement (caveat, caveat). Good luck and I hope the fix is easy! Thanks for watching.

Good luck with the replacements. I’m sure it’ll run a lot happier afterwards. Thanks for watching.

It ended up being a bad replacement carrier bearing in the real diff. Full story here: th-cam.com/video/Xx937ZjPQNI/w-d-xo.html Thanks for watching.

Yeah, you'll have lost a lot of coolant in this process and will need to bleed/burp the system and ensure that it's full. I go over it at 22:40 in the video. Good luck, especially if someone did silicone it on you, and thanks for watching.

Oh gosh! I thought it was bad enough when I had to mess with them in my JK and TJ, but the newer JK sounds even worse! (and the JL/TJ probably even worse!) I'm glad the video helped a little - it sounds like you need to make a video of your own for the 2013+ JKs!

Thanks for watching

Thanks much!

Thanks, Carrie, and thanks for watching!

Thanks, Michael. That did seem to be its happy place, I agree. Thanks for watching!

Thanks for the feedback and for watching, Tony. You made my day!

31,000 miles and 2.5 years later it’s been going great. No troubles, leaks, codes, etc. Thanks for watching, Forgiato.

Spoiler alert: If you fast forward to the end of this saga, mine was exactly the same problem. Even though I actually had gotten the rear and rebuilt it turned out that one of the new carrier bearings was bad. After trying everything else I took it back to the shop. They rebuilt it again and sounds is gone.

That thing is a beast - takes beatings without giving me any grief. Love it! Thanks for watching.

Thanks for watching, Nikos! In this video I had a 2.5” spacer lift installed. In a future video, I replace that with a 2.5” suspension lift.

Honestly, I don’t recall there really being a difference in the air flow rate.

Thanks, Jason!

Oof! That’s a shocking way to go, for sure, yikes! Glad the video helped, though I’m glad I didn’t have any cleanup like you must have had. Thanks for subscribing!

🤣😂 Wouldn't surprise me if you couldn't find a bottle of it on Amazon... Thanks for watching, Victor.

Glad it helped. Thanks for watching.

I believe the OD of the hose is 1-7/8" so you just need a spring clamp that is appropriately sized for that size hose. Good luck, and thanks for watching.

Air tools definitely come in handy if you have them! Thanks for watching.

Nope! Did not drain the system first. You'll get some coolant that'll spill from the upper hose until you bend it back/clamp it off and from the thermostat housing but it's not that much. A bucket under the front of the engine is a good idea. Thanks for watching, JP.