Hey RM. I do a lot of fur trapping and wild canines are very hesitant to enter a live trap. Much more effective for them to use foot hold traps or snares. Looking forward to your chicken update videos and even butchering vids if you so choose. I lost 2 2 birds to an owl last Fall. My single remaining hen stopped laying until I gave her to a neighbor with her own chickens. Started laying again. I'll be getting 3-4 layers this Spring from L&M or Tractor Supply. I sure miss having chickens. Semper Fi.
Hey, new sub. Nice to see the new babies. Mine are 3 weeks today and already 1.2lbs or heavier. Moving them out to their run shortly. Have some New Hampshire roos too for a breeding program I'm going to start working on. They are so dwarfed by the CXs its hard to believe they are a dual purpose heritage breed. Fencing the bottom is not a good idea, as the chickens like to scratch and it may injure their feet. Either add a floating skirt; like you did to the stationary but attached so it moves with the coop: can be secured by stakes, or add electric fencing that is entirely supported by the coop structure - or both even. For the grounding rod, use a t post or metal rod, 12 to 18 inches into the ground (with something welded to the rod) so you can hook a 2x4 under it for leveraged removal. Only needs to be in the ground about 12 inches to be effective enough. Also, I've lost a bird (badly injured) that was inside a run and inside a kennel cage that was tarped on the top and 3 sides. It was a bobcat, but I think a fox would do just as much damage. Chickens can't see in the dark. If they hear something they will go right to the cage wall thinking you are there with food and lose a wing before they can react. We are predator heavy in FL so my tractor and runs have fully enclosed coops within them. My run extension is fully enclosed with 40% shade cloth acting as the roof and both primary and secondary runs are electrified. I've only had one secondary run breach and that was before the shade cloth and electric lines went up; one at 4 inches from the ground and one at ~24 inches.
When you retire and move to East Texas, are you going to settle away from the coast? Because avoiding Hurricanes is one of the best things I like about living in Waco.
If you move there you never have to evacuate from a hurricane ever again. Just have to put up with the occasional hail and thunderstorms. And possibly a tornado but I have only had the conditions for one twice in 12 years here in Waco.@@renaissancemarinetv3536
Cool vid, thanks
Cut down hog panels work good on the inside. I'm thinking about making them fold up and down for movement, still in the thinking stage!
i would love to see how that goes.
@renaissancemarinetv3536 still using the St.John pool noodle chicken pusher to move coop?
Damn good advice for these trying times - who knows? Wish I had the means to obtain some land.
Hey RM. I do a lot of fur trapping and wild canines are very hesitant to enter a live trap. Much more effective for them to use foot hold traps or snares. Looking forward to your chicken update videos and even butchering vids if you so choose. I lost 2 2 birds to an owl last Fall. My single remaining hen stopped laying until I gave her to a neighbor with her own chickens. Started laying again. I'll be getting 3-4 layers this Spring from L&M or Tractor Supply. I sure miss having chickens. Semper Fi.
RM Good idea putting fencing on the bottom. 🍀🍀👍Best
It's actually not. For rabbits, sure but not for chickens that like to scratch and forage for 80% of their day.
@@forced4motorsportsMaybe just an apron extension inside or outside. Best
Hey, new sub. Nice to see the new babies. Mine are 3 weeks today and already 1.2lbs or heavier. Moving them out to their run shortly. Have some New Hampshire roos too for a breeding program I'm going to start working on. They are so dwarfed by the CXs its hard to believe they are a dual purpose heritage breed.
Fencing the bottom is not a good idea, as the chickens like to scratch and it may injure their feet. Either add a floating skirt; like you did to the stationary but attached so it moves with the coop: can be secured by stakes, or add electric fencing that is entirely supported by the coop structure - or both even. For the grounding rod, use a t post or metal rod, 12 to 18 inches into the ground (with something welded to the rod) so you can hook a 2x4 under it for leveraged removal. Only needs to be in the ground about 12 inches to be effective enough.
Also, I've lost a bird (badly injured) that was inside a run and inside a kennel cage that was tarped on the top and 3 sides. It was a bobcat, but I think a fox would do just as much damage. Chickens can't see in the dark. If they hear something they will go right to the cage wall thinking you are there with food and lose a wing before they can react. We are predator heavy in FL so my tractor and runs have fully enclosed coops within them. My run extension is fully enclosed with 40% shade cloth acting as the roof and both primary and secondary runs are electrified. I've only had one secondary run breach and that was before the shade cloth and electric lines went up; one at 4 inches from the ground and one at ~24 inches.
good info. where in florida are you?
@@renaissancemarinetv3536Sorry, didn't see this reply. Southwest - Port Charlotte to be exact.
When you retire and move to East Texas, are you going to settle away from the coast? Because avoiding Hurricanes is one of the best things I like about living in Waco.
i looked at land around palestine when i was in texas hunting a few weeks ago.
If you move there you never have to evacuate from a hurricane ever again. Just have to put up with the occasional hail and thunderstorms. And possibly a tornado but I have only had the conditions for one twice in 12 years here in Waco.@@renaissancemarinetv3536