Sir, I just came across your videos and I can't tell you how much I've enjoyed them! I especially enjoy the ones featuring the x-tool. Thank you for making my evenings a bit more enjoyable. I appreciate you.
@@PawPawsWorkShop Once you have a flat piece of limestone you can make a trial. Because your tile got still slightly etched and it retained a bit a ink. Which may well be sufficient to make a print on paper if pressed enough.
Hallo PAL Paw, vou are so great!!! I love your Videos and your step by step explanation very much. Thanks a lot to you, greetings from southern Germany
Thank you I will definitely give the Norton white Tile a run. This will be my 1st time our 2nd time using my Longer Ray 5 Laser Enengraver. Thanks I will keep you in mind and watch your channel as much as I can for help.
@@PawPawsWorkShop I do not know how to send a photo mate but came out quite well for first attempt, used 150mm square tile with the Australian coat of arms, for some reason bottom half was a bit paler than the top and there was I think too much fine lines like the wattle flowers I need to try again with something les cluttered
Nice Video The Holy Grail for paint is Smokey Beige To speed up process I heat the tiles with an old hair Dryer from $ store I use a timer with two tiles at a time I,ve found if I heat them to 110 F (which correlates with 90 sec ) They can be used within 10-15 minutes
Thanks for preparing this video. It has answered all my questions. I was thinking of making these as table top displays. Have you come across any wooden frames that work with the tile dimensions?
Good morning my friend beautiful work could you please send me the link of the paint you use because in my country I am not finding it thank you very much attention
You need to find a paint with titanium oxide or you can just order the titanium oxide. I’ll be doing a video shortly just using the titanium oxide with no paint
Very cool! So the titanium oxide actually reacts with the tile… would this approach work on stainless steel as well? I don’t get good results on it with the diode either
Hola magnifico video, podrías decirme como hace para que valla el laser tan lento y poder ajustar donde se va a grabar. Muchas gracias un saludo desde España.
I know this is late but just wanting to try tiles. Your information is great I noticed you show max and min power in Lightburn. Even when doing fill. I only show minimum when doing a photo. Wondering if the is an option for that. For sure I have subscribed. You have the best information and make it very understandable. Gary
Hi Sir, very nice and instructible your video. Please tell me what power you have on the laser head. You have only the power ratio specified, but from what power. Thank you.
3:52 Question. When you clean it using mineral spirits, do you want to take the paint off too? I had a hard time taking the paint off using mineral spirits. Thanks!
Yes you can! You can use any light colored tiles. There are a variety of paints that will work. They must have titanium oxide in the paint to work or just get some titanium oxide and alcohol then you can skip the paint
A great explanation, which I’ve followed, and success. Do you recommend sealing the tile afterwards with a clear lacquer or varnish as I’m going to use it as a coaster. Thanks again for taking the time to make these videos 🇬🇧
very nice video and very helpful, congrats. Can i use any kind of spray paint or just rust oleum, it's not easy or cheap to find it where i leave. Can i use the same method for bronze or aluminium?
Hey thank you so much for the information. Could you let me know why when I engrave my tiles have a random line that ruins my tiles? It rips a random line across the image on my tile.
You will need to check to see if it is a software or mechanical issue. Try running the same files with your project in a different place on your wasteboard. If it is still there in the same spot it is a software or file issue
Follow up question. I've created some nice tiles I want to hang outside our shop. Has anyone placed them outside? How do they weather? Do they need any sealant - UV protection?
Thanks for the wonderful video. I have done some tiles with this method and with different settings and I get just pale gray color. Any opinion on how I can fix it?
I haven’t seen anyone talking about trying any other colored tiles? Or things like slate, quarry tile, porcelain tiles etc… so I got a big assortment and painted half each tile and will experiment?
I am new to this and surprised I cannot find any standard recommendations for various types of material. In this video you placed the laser head 20 mm above the tile and set the laser at 10"/sec at 60% power. I was under the impression that all laser work on my Atomstack A5 M50, 5 Watt laser were to be run at no more than 2mm above the material of any kind. Can you share a link to a reference guide as to how high the laser head should be placed above the material Or do you know of an online guide to height , speed and power needed for various standard materials such as white tile ?
This is not an exact science. Each laser is different. The z height will be listed in your manual as the different manufacturers have different focus positions. Even the amount of paint that you put on the tile will make a difference. You need to experiment to find what works best for you. There are no set power and feed rates that will give you the perfect results. Myself and many others always say to run a test grid for each material.
Thank you!!! Can you PLEASE let me know the settings you used for the X-Tool D1 10w? I haven’t made a single good looking tile yet! Help me please!! ❤️❤️❤️
No, the reaction is with the titanium oxide in the paint. The color is not the issue. Some colors have little to no titanium oxide. That is why white or Smokey beige is used the most
Titanium Dioxide/Oxide (TiO2) is basically white tint. It is contained in many paints with the quantity of TiO2 directly affecting the color/tint of the paint. Obviously white paint will contain the greatest quantity of it. As Paw Paw explained, it's not the color of the paint that affects the burn but the amount of TiO2 contained in the paint, which reacts and burns with contact from the laser leaving a black char behind. If you want to play with colors, take a look at this guy's TH-cam. Pretty cool. th-cam.com/video/yJeJxlRbWY8/w-d-xo.html Or look at Paw Paw's version of color tiles. th-cam.com/video/0x75uPUDA-k/w-d-xo.html
Hi sir may I please ask you a question I recently got a neje3plus A40630 module 5 watt I think diode see on materials like tiles I take it it's higher power lower speed I'd love some advice ✌️✌️✌️
Thank you so much, this is exactly what I needed. There is a video that uses rustoleum zinc spray paint. (Cold process) same chemical process with the laser reacting to the zinc instead of the titanium. Have you tried that paint? It seems to have great results and the final wash is with water and a brillo pad. Thanks again for all your hard work, I appreciate it.
I don't see TiO2 listed as an ingredient in the paint. Other than assuming that white is titanium white, is there a definitive source for that information?
I will have to try this method. I have been using the cold galvanizing compound on the glossy white tiles and using a 20w laser my settings are 100 in/min speed and 30% power and i get nice deep dark engraves with clean up using acetone but I am curious now to try this norton method too. Thanks.
Thanks for posting this. And thanks for using the sculpfun s9. I just bought the supplies to try this project and was wondering what type of paint I should use. Quick question roughly how long did it take to etch the tile?
do you actually etch down into the tile or do you just bond the titanium to the surface? I am confused. It would seem that etching down would remove the protective glaze. However, maybe the bonding method is not perm enough. Thank you
It’s not the color, it’s the titanium oxide that is in the paint. I do not think that the black contains titanium oxide. You might want to check with the manufacturer
Great video though you forgot to say there is a good deal of experimentation. Here is what I am doing, then some questions. Atomstack A20 laser, settings speed 800/50. I have used several white paints cheap and expensive. I am having good luck with krylon rust protector gloss white enamel. At first I had a good deal of variation grey to not quite black- 2 coats. I found uneven spray gives a wide variation. Then I tried really heavy 5 coats and it worked great. Clean up is a pain with paper towels and lacquer thinner. I bought a gallon of thinner submerged the tile for several minutes and when it blistered used paper towels. I also found that the super fine lines from the laser trap paint residue discoloring the black - particularly with fine text. Solution that worked for me was dipping a tooth brush into thinner and sort of washing the text so the residue floats out. How many coats of paint do you use? What power diode laser? What settings work best for you? Thx so much for all of the effort in the videos - Michael
Thanks for the wonderful video. Been wanting to do a tile but so long. Going to Lowe's and get me some white tile. Really appreciate your expertise, just one more thing. I have a Glowforge, do you think the settings will be much different? Again that you
Love these Paw Paw. I'm definitely going to try this. On a side note, what would you charge for these? My local box store only had 6x6 tiles. The laser time on my 7w Jtech is 30-60 minutes each.
Would you consider doing a video where you try to prepare the white tile with paint which does not contain titanium oxide. Its not available here and as far as i know neither is borax. 😢
I have tried this method exactly as you have outlined with my xtool D1 laser (10W) and found it did not deliver anything close to the results you show. I can only assume it is related to the laser?
Enjoy your channel. I have been using some of your advice. Question...Do you have to remove the white paint, or can I just put some clear coat over it? Thanks, and keep sending out your ideas!
Good afternoon sir, I just did my first tile following your instructions. Then used a sharpie and wiped it off with rubbing alcohol and the color didn’t stay. I’m thinking maybe not enough engraving ( depth)??? What do you think?
You should not have to add color to the tile. It should be black. If the tile is etched well paint it any color with the rust-o-leum paint. Let dry and the clean the tile with the lacquer thinner. You will lose a little of the color not so it will matter.
@@barbaraescoto2350 Did you watch the entire video or did you skip or fast forward? Paw Paw explains why he colored with a Sharpie to demonstrate a problem, not as a completion method.
I have been trying a similar method to engrave and old photo onto Canvas but having mixed results, could you recommend some settings on Canvas I am using an Atomstack A5 M50 5.5w diode laser.
Sorry to bother you again I'm still a rookie at this white tile method. I'm using this method on 4x4 white tiles painted white to make coasters. The issue I'm having is with the painted areas that's not burnt. When stacking the coasters after they set for a few hours they stick and mess up the paint on the tile below. They have cork material on the back of them. Any suggestions? Do you use acetone to clean off the white paint that doesn't get burnt. Please help.
I am going to assume that you are using the Rust-o-luem paint. I use white or Smokey Beige. Let the paint dry over night then laser them. The laser reacts with the titanium oxide in the paint to burn the image. After you engrave remove the paint with lacquer thinner. This paint is lacquer based. You will be left with a clean tile with not paint and the burned image
@@PawPawsWorkShop is there anyway to leave the paint? When you clean them with acetone the burn looks a lot lighter instead of crisp black lines they look more grayish. I am using the exact paint from your video.
@@PawPawsWorkShop my lines are good and black until I was them off. So you suggest shower speed to make a better black after the tile is cleaned with acetone?
Hi, i tried this as well with Rust-Oleum Painter's Touch 2X Ultra Cover Multi-Purpose Paint And Primer in Flat White. The test file gives me black squares. When i use acetone it removes everything. On the spots that had the black squares the glazing of the tile is gone. Does this mean its burning to high or to low ? its also a 5.5w diode laser.
I believe the given settings are for a 20 W diode laser. A 5.5 W one might be not powerful enough. I just bought a 10 W one, hoping that using it at almost full power will be enough.
I have done some white tiles with this method and got so so results, then I got one perfect. That tile wasn't grey but pure black in the burnt areas. just today I did another at what I thought was same settings but I got some areas that did well before the image was cleaned only to find out there was no image under it. This was at 1600 at 40 percent on a 10watt output laser. I tried again at 1600 at 50 percent, the uncleaned image was perfect, but after cleaning with acetone it was a mess some areas burnt thru to the raw tile but no blackening some other areas were sort of ok. this batch of tiles was painted flat white two coats two weeks ago. How about a video showing possible mistakes and what it was that should be corrected
same; had better luck just painting tile black, printing, then acetone washing after. On a ortur3 70%/2000 mm/s is a good dark black; shades nicely on photos. (Anywhere the laser doesn't hit the acetone will wash off the paint.) Tried a couple white paints; dark gray'ish was the best I could get.
To quickly place the tile I tape down a piece of cardboard (an old cereal box works). Then I draw a square the same size as my tile and put it on a line layer. Then lightly burn the square on the cardboard. Now you can put that square on a tool layer. Now aligned your design within that tool layer and put your tile inside the square you burned earlier and burn your tile. It probably takes less time to do it as it did to read this comment.
I am having a huge difficult time framing and using the rubberband frame in lightburn. I am trying to engrave a mirror and I did it two times before , but now, Lightburn will not frame for squat. It either frames completely way out of place or it starts engraving near the bottom left hand side. It won't center, and I am about to give up! This is aggravating. No matter what I do, it refuses to frame or center. I have moved the logo around and moved the laser all over the place to make it center or engrave correctly. I need some HELP! I am about ready to ship the D1 back. Nothing is working and it was fine before but I am wondering if the last update did something to change this. Can ANYONE give me some advice????
Have you seen this video on alignment. The Red Cross hairs frames the area when you use the frame button. It will not be ware the laser is moving. If you use the layer 29 as I show with 3 passes and .5 power will frame the laser point exactly. Please look at this video. It all part of the learning process. th-cam.com/video/1cmP6E86gM8/w-d-xo.html
I just updated my lightburn to 1.014 (the latest as of 2 May 2022). First of all I had a graphic with a box around it. When I engraved it... the box engraved 50% over my graphic, Nothing at all like it was on the screen. It did this twice to different degrees. Then... I lost all my artwork, it just showed names instead of pictures and it wouldn’t allow me to put the graphic into my project. Next all my artwork had disappeared. Now it says my cut and engraved file won’t load in. I’m ready to bin the software and hardware. I’ve been at it all day today and nothing will work. I’m feeling quite sick about it. I hope you had better luck. I’m using an Aufero professional (lol).
Getting a little frustrating trying to find the correct settings. I'm using a Onefinity machine with a Jtech 7w diode laser. I sprayed the 4.25x4.25 tiles lightly with Rust-Oleum 2X Ultracover in Smokey Beige Satin. The test burn looked pretty good with a 70% power and 15 ipm speed. When I burn images off of the free adult coloring they burn ok, I just wish the lines were a little darker. I have played with power up to 85% and speed down to 5 ipm. Just a slight difference. I originally was burning "cut on" line. I tried hatch fill on line. Again, only a slight difference. ( And of course every change I make increases the time . )
@@PawPawsWorkShop I try to set the dpi pretty high. When the piece finished the paint wasn’t burnt and can flake off. I’m running an xTool D1 Pro 20 watt laser. The tile took over 6 hours to engrave.
Complete? For tiles yes but I believe this will work on other materials. I would like to see some of you influencers actually experimenting instead of going for the proven methods.
Have you also done any experimenting based on the projects that we have done as creators? Any ceramic product should produce similar results. Therefore, any ceramic item such as plates, bowls, cups, decorations. Anything made of ceramic. What material do you want to test? I and others have used wood, ceramic, glass, acrylic and different types of metal. What is left to test?
@@PawPawsWorkShop that's not what I want. I want to leave a raised design on glass rather than a traditional etch into the glass surface. Anyway I've done one glass slide and the design came out light gray. I'll go a little hotter or slower next time.
Are people clamoring for a black and white drawing on random tiles? DO these stand up to being in a show and harsh cleanbing and chemicals? Why is this a thing?
I’ve tried to contact XTool and can’t get a response. I’ve sent 5 emails and NOTHING! interested in a D1 but not if their customer service is basically ZERO!
Best explanation of why it works that I have found, thank you. The secret is in the paint!
Yes, that is the answer. Thank you for watching
Your method for positioning the work is brilliant! I’m going to try that with my future projects!
Awesome! Thank you very much
Sir, I just came across your videos and I can't tell you how much I've enjoyed them! I especially enjoy the ones featuring the x-tool. Thank you for making my evenings a bit more enjoyable. I appreciate you.
Awesome! Thank you very much for watching
I appreciate the research you do for each segment. Makes it interesting and memorable.
Thank you very much. I’m glad the my videos help you.
You are awesome!!! So glad I found you on TH-cam!
Thank you so very much
Thank you for sharing. Have a wonderful holiday.
You’re very welcome. Merry Christmas to you and your family
Great video explaining the Norton Method.. Of course I did not know the name of he method prior to watching.
Thank you very much
Awesome. Glad you learned something and thanks for watching
Thank you! Just lasering my testgrid 😊
Awesome. Congratulations
Nice detail with explanation as to how/why things work or not. Super job!
Thank you very much
Maybe the Laser engraving without any tile surface coating can be used to make lithographic printing plates...
With a diode laser that will not be effective
@@PawPawsWorkShop Once you have a flat piece of limestone you can make a trial. Because your tile got still slightly etched and it retained a bit a ink. Which may well be sufficient to make a print on paper if pressed enough.
Hallo PAL Paw, vou are so great!!! I love your Videos and your step by step explanation very much. Thanks a lot to you, greetings from southern Germany
Thank you I will definitely give the Norton white Tile a run.
This will be my 1st time our 2nd time using my Longer Ray 5 Laser Enengraver. Thanks I will keep you in mind and watch your channel as much as I can for help.
Well done mate thanks, just bought the paint and will have a go tomorrow, thanks again.
Awesome. Let me know the results. Would love to see pictures
@@PawPawsWorkShop I do not know how to send a photo mate but came out quite well for first attempt, used 150mm square tile with the Australian coat of arms, for some reason bottom half was a bit paler than the top and there was I think too much fine lines like the wattle flowers I need to try again with something les cluttered
Nice Video
The Holy Grail for paint is Smokey Beige
To speed up process I heat the tiles with an old hair Dryer from $ store
I use a timer with two tiles at a time
I,ve found if I heat them to 110 F (which correlates with 90 sec )
They can be used within 10-15 minutes
And that info is why I read the comments. Got a few tiles yesterday to try on my 2.4W on my 3018. Needed to know the best paint for that little laser.
Maybe worth a trial to just cover the tile with a Titanium Oxyde solution? Could be done with laquers.
Maybe, but I do not have that available
I have recently discovered your channel. Your instruction has been very helpful and interesting. Keep up with valuable instruction.
Thank you very much. I appreciate your comments and welcome to my channel
Love your videos! Thank you!
Glad you like them! You’re very welcome
I'm so excited to try this method tonight. Just bought the paint and tiles. Exact paint you use here!
Wonderful! Hope you have a lot of fun doing it
Thanks for preparing this video. It has answered all my questions. I was thinking of making these as table top displays. Have you come across any wooden frames that work with the tile dimensions?
No, you would need to make your own frames
Thank you for sharing. After etching what would you use to seal it with?
Nothing. There is no reason to seal a glazed tile. This etching is burned into the tile
Good morning my friend beautiful work could you please send me the link of the paint you use because in my country I am not finding it thank you very much attention
You need to find a paint with titanium oxide or you can just order the titanium oxide. I’ll be doing a video shortly just using the titanium oxide with no paint
Very cool! So the titanium oxide actually reacts with the tile… would this approach work on stainless steel as well? I don’t get good results on it with the diode either
This will not work on stainless steel. You need an IR laser or Co2 laser to get the best results
@@PawPawsWorkShop thanks for the reply!
Wow I just have to try this!
Will dykem paint remover work to remove the paint after the job is done?
I’m not familiar with the base ingredient. If you are using the paint which is lacquer based then you need a product that is lacquer based as well
Does any white spray paint have the titanium dioxide or do i have to get the rustoleum
From my experience Rustoleum works best or just buy the titanium oxide and mix with alcohol
Thank you!
My pleasure
Hola magnifico video, podrías decirme como hace para que valla el laser tan lento y poder ajustar donde se va a grabar.
Muchas gracias un saludo desde España.
Can you Also use sharpie on the nice lasered tile?
Hey paw paw I have a small laser like this I did I put A grid on the wood to help square up my projects
I know this is late but just wanting to try tiles.
Your information is great
I noticed you show max and min power in Lightburn. Even when doing fill.
I only show minimum when doing a photo.
Wondering if the is an option for that.
For sure I have subscribed.
You have the best information and make it very understandable.
Gary
Thank you very much. Welcome to my channel
*Another great video Paw Paw!* 👍
Thanks, you’re doing great also.
Hi Sir, very nice and instructible your video. Please tell me what power you have on the laser head. You have only the power ratio specified, but from what power.
Thank you.
3:52
Question. When you clean it using mineral spirits, do you want to take the paint off too? I had a hard time taking the paint off using mineral spirits. Thanks!
If the paint is lacquer based you will need to use lacquer thinner to remove the paint
@@PawPawsWorkShop it’s the Rustolium spray
Use the lacquer thinner or acetone
Can you use any color other than white tile and white paint? Thanks!
Yes you can! You can use any light colored tiles. There are a variety of paints that will work. They must have titanium oxide in the paint to work or just get some titanium oxide and alcohol then you can skip the paint
Awesome, thanks for the rapid response from one Paw Paw to another!@@PawPawsWorkShop
A great explanation, which I’ve followed, and success. Do you recommend sealing the tile afterwards with a clear lacquer or varnish as I’m going to use it as a coaster. Thanks again for taking the time to make these videos 🇬🇧
No need. Not with this method. Thanks for watching
Thanks again
Does this work on ceramic tiles that aren’t glazed? Ordered some white ones up from Michael’s not realizing they weren’t sealed.
No ceramic tiles must be fired. Are you getting bisk fired? You can paint with the glaze and then fire it
very nice video and very helpful, congrats. Can i use any kind of spray paint or just rust oleum, it's not easy or cheap to find it where i leave. Can i use the same method for bronze or aluminium?
You need a paint with titanium oxide in it
Will this paint process also work on porcelain dishes?
Yes it will
@@PawPawsWorkShop thank you
Hey thank you so much for the information. Could you let me know why when I engrave my tiles have a random line that ruins my tiles? It rips a random line across the image on my tile.
You will need to check to see if it is a software or mechanical issue. Try running the same files with your project in a different place on your wasteboard. If it is still there in the same spot it is a software or file issue
Can you get a gray style picture on this?
It’s all about power and feed rate
I just watched this for the second time. What laser were you using?
This is the Sculpfun S9 laser
Follow up question. I've created some nice tiles I want to hang outside our shop. Has anyone placed them outside? How do they weather? Do they need any sealant - UV protection?
Using this method outside should not present a problem
@@PawPawsWorkShop Super, thanks. I figured it’d be ok - I figure titanium dioxide is used in sunscreen so…
I put cold galvanized compound on the tiles like the said to on other videos, what can I try, more passes? maybe different paint?
That material is usually put on metal. Not tiles
Thanks for the wonderful video. I have done some tiles with this method and with different settings and I get just pale gray color. Any opinion on how I can fix it?
The power and speed settings most likely need to be adjusted. Do a test grid for your laser to see the best settings
can you use a acrylic paint?
No not for this method. You need the titanium oxide that is in the paint for this method to work
Can you give any advice on doing the white tile on a fox alien using lasergrbl
I do not use laser GRBL. The setting I use are 508mm/min and 60% power
does this work on white acrylic?
No but you can use different color ceramic tiles
Thank you for the helpful video. What is the output watt of the diode laser you’re using on this one?
The is the Sculpfun S9 diode laser
I haven’t seen anyone talking about trying any other colored tiles? Or things like slate, quarry tile, porcelain tiles etc… so I got a big assortment and painted half each tile and will experiment?
I have used slate also. Please share the results of your experiments. Thank you for watching
what about other kinds of tile does it have to be white
Yes, you can do other colors of tiles
Does it work on glass? 🤔
No, the Norton white tile method does not work on glass
@@PawPawsWorkShop thanks for replying 👍 thought I might be able to cheat cermark 🤣🤣🤣
great video. what output power is your laser. can the settings just be adjusted, either power our speed or both for a lesser power laser?
Output is approximately 5 watt
Hello, Great video, How long it takes to complete the job you did in this video?
Thanks to teach us. This method can work with co2 or fiber laser?
I believe that is can. I do not have either of those lasers but I see no reason why it would not work
@@PawPawsWorkShop I' m going to prove, I have those laser unless with diode. Thank you Mr!
How long it takes to finish 1 tile? you using s9 sculpfun?
Will this method word with CO2 80W laser?
I’m not a CO2 guy. Hopefully someone will answer this question for you. Thank you for watching my videos
Would this method work with a CO2 laser? Thank you!
No, this is only on the diode lasers
Okay, I appreciate your help.
I am new to this and surprised I cannot find any standard recommendations for various types of material.
In this video you placed the laser head 20 mm above the tile and set the laser at 10"/sec at 60% power.
I was under the impression that all laser work on my Atomstack A5 M50, 5 Watt laser were to be run at no more than 2mm above the material of any kind.
Can you share a link to a reference guide as to how high the laser head should be placed above the material
Or do you know of an online guide to height , speed and power needed for various standard materials such as white tile ?
This is not an exact science. Each laser is different. The z height will be listed in your manual as the different manufacturers have different focus positions. Even the amount of paint that you put on the tile will make a difference. You need to experiment to find what works best for you. There are no set power and feed rates that will give you the perfect results. Myself and many others always say to run a test grid for each material.
Thank you!!! Can you PLEASE let me know the settings you used for the X-Tool D1 10w? I haven’t made a single good looking tile yet! Help me please!! ❤️❤️❤️
20 ipm and 60% power. The problem may be your paint
@@PawPawsWorkShop but I thought these were your settings for the laser in the video which was only 5.5W. Won’t the 10W D1 need different settings?
@@PawPawsWorkShop would I just need to half all the numbers since my D1 is 10w and your laser is 5w?
Not really. Test it to see the results. I believe it will work
@@PawPawsWorkShop thank you sir! I painted my tiles earlier. So I’ll try it later tomorrow afternoon after the 24 hour wait!
If I use a colored paint will it change color ?? Blue or Red etc
Thank you
Ed
No, the reaction is with the titanium oxide in the paint. The color is not the issue. Some colors have little to no titanium oxide. That is why white or Smokey beige is used the most
Titanium Dioxide/Oxide (TiO2) is basically white tint. It is contained in many paints with the quantity of TiO2 directly affecting the color/tint of the paint. Obviously white paint will contain the greatest quantity of it. As Paw Paw explained, it's not the color of the paint that affects the burn but the amount of TiO2 contained in the paint, which reacts and burns with contact from the laser leaving a black char behind. If you want to play with colors, take a look at this guy's TH-cam. Pretty cool. th-cam.com/video/yJeJxlRbWY8/w-d-xo.html Or look at Paw Paw's version of color tiles. th-cam.com/video/0x75uPUDA-k/w-d-xo.html
Hi sir may I please ask you a question I recently got a neje3plus A40630 module 5 watt I think diode see on materials like tiles I take it it's higher power lower speed I'd love some advice ✌️✌️✌️
Thank you so much, this is exactly what I needed. There is a video that uses rustoleum zinc spray paint. (Cold process) same chemical process with the laser reacting to the zinc instead of the titanium. Have you tried that paint? It seems to have great results and the final wash is with water and a brillo pad. Thanks again for all your hard work, I appreciate it.
Just don’t breathe the fumes when using the cold process with zinc. It’s bad for you
@@PawPawsWorkShop good to know! Thank you
I don't see TiO2 listed as an ingredient in the paint. Other than assuming that white is titanium white, is there a definitive source for that information?
I will have to try this method. I have been using the cold galvanizing compound on the glossy white tiles and using a 20w laser my settings are 100 in/min speed and 30% power and i get nice deep dark engraves with clean up using acetone but I am curious now to try this norton method too. Thanks.
Can it be used on food plates? Will it be toxic? Even if it doesn't peel off, microscopic quantities might get washed with hot food.
Yes, you can but I would not use them to eat from. Bacteria potentially could get into the engraving
Thanks for posting this. And thanks for using the sculpfun s9. I just bought the supplies to try this project and was wondering what type of paint I should use. Quick question roughly how long did it take to etch the tile?
You’re very welcome. It takes about an hour to engrave
do you actually etch down into the tile or do you just bond the titanium to the surface? I am confused. It would seem that etching down would remove the protective glaze. However, maybe the bonding method is not perm enough. Thank you
Hey Paw Paw, thanks for the video! Great stuff! Can I use the same paint but in black? I have a lot left over from old projects.
It’s not the color, it’s the titanium oxide that is in the paint. I do not think that the black contains titanium oxide. You might want to check with the manufacturer
@@PawPawsWorkShop Awesome... thanks Paw Paw!
Great video though you forgot to say there is a good deal of experimentation. Here is what I am doing, then some questions. Atomstack A20 laser, settings speed 800/50. I have used several white paints cheap and expensive. I am having good luck with krylon rust protector gloss white enamel. At first I had a good deal of variation grey to not quite black- 2 coats. I found uneven spray gives a wide variation. Then I tried really heavy 5 coats and it worked great. Clean up is a pain with paper towels and lacquer thinner. I bought a gallon of thinner submerged the tile for several minutes and when it blistered used paper towels. I also found that the super fine lines from the laser trap paint residue discoloring the black - particularly with fine text. Solution that worked for me was dipping a tooth brush into thinner and sort of washing the text so the residue floats out. How many coats of paint do you use? What power diode laser? What settings work best for you? Thx so much for all of the effort in the videos - Michael
Thanks for the wonderful video. Been wanting to do a tile but so long. Going to Lowe's and get me some white tile. Really appreciate your expertise, just one more thing. I have a Glowforge, do you think the settings will be much different? Again that you
Yes you will need to experiment as little. I would reduce the power and keep the speed about the same
Love these Paw Paw. I'm definitely going to try this. On a side note, what would you charge for these? My local box store only had 6x6 tiles. The laser time on my 7w Jtech is 30-60 minutes each.
Thank you very much. Your local market will determine the price. The average is about $5
@Paw Paw’s WorkShop yeah I figure they'll sell at $5... not sure if I would want to make a whole lot of them at 30-60 minutes each.
will it work with a 5 watt x tool?
I see no reason why it would not work. You just have to adjust the settings
Would you consider doing a video where you try to prepare
the white tile with paint which does not contain titanium oxide. Its not available here and as far as i know neither is borax. 😢
If I use pure TiO2 will I get a colorless etch? Also, will matting the tile with diamond abrasive make it work with just the laser?
I have tried this method exactly as you have outlined with my xtool D1 laser (10W) and found it did not deliver anything close to the results you show. I can only assume it is related to the laser?
Do a test grid and see the best settings.
does this work with a co2 laser?
I actually do not have a a co2 laser
Enjoy your channel. I have been using some of your advice. Question...Do you have to remove the white paint, or can I just put some clear coat over it? Thanks, and keep sending out your ideas!
Yes, remove the white paint and you are done. No, you do not need a clear coat
Good afternoon sir, I just did my first tile following your instructions. Then used a sharpie and wiped it off with rubbing alcohol and the color didn’t stay. I’m thinking maybe not enough engraving ( depth)??? What do you think?
You should not have to add color to the tile. It should be black. If the tile is etched well paint it any color with the rust-o-leum paint. Let dry and the clean the tile with the lacquer thinner. You will lose a little of the color not so it will matter.
Oh ok, saw you used a sharpie pen, so after it’s etched, spray paint it, then clean it? I’m sooo new to this. Apologies for the questions.
Sharpie pen did not work well
@@barbaraescoto2350 Did you watch the entire video or did you skip or fast forward? Paw Paw explains why he colored with a Sharpie to demonstrate a problem, not as a completion method.
I have been trying a similar method to engrave and old photo onto Canvas but having mixed results, could you recommend some settings on Canvas I am using an Atomstack A5 M50 5.5w diode laser.
I ran the norton white test on my ortur master pro 2 10a laser and all the squares turned out the same color. Help please!!!
All squares turned out same color? Black? I need a little more information
Hello can this be done on a D1 pro 10 watt? Settings anyone??
thank you
Yes. For settings run a test grid. You’ll get the best results for your laser
Sorry to bother you again I'm still a rookie at this white tile method. I'm using this method on 4x4 white tiles painted white to make coasters. The issue I'm having is with the painted areas that's not burnt. When stacking the coasters after they set for a few hours they stick and mess up the paint on the tile below. They have cork material on the back of them. Any suggestions? Do you use acetone to clean off the white paint that doesn't get burnt. Please help.
I am going to assume that you are using the Rust-o-luem paint. I use white or Smokey Beige. Let the paint dry over night then laser them. The laser reacts with the titanium oxide in the paint to burn the image. After you engrave remove the paint with lacquer thinner. This paint is lacquer based. You will be left with a clean tile with not paint and the burned image
@@PawPawsWorkShop is there anyway to leave the paint? When you clean them with acetone the burn looks a lot lighter instead of crisp black lines they look more grayish. I am using the exact paint from your video.
You will need to adjust you speed and power if you are not getting a good black. Do a test grid to find the best setting
@@PawPawsWorkShop my lines are good and black until I was them off. So you suggest shower speed to make a better black after the tile is cleaned with acetone?
I would suggest a test grid to determine what is best for your laser
You used white paint. Does color matter? As long as it has the titanium, wouldn't it bond the same?
Titanium is the key ingredient however as I test more and more there are some paints that does not stick well to the ceramic tile
What's going on with the X axis? It's not moving smooth
I believe it is more the graphics chosen
@@PawPawsWorkShop isn't it rapid travel over sections that are not engraved
Hi, i tried this as well with Rust-Oleum Painter's Touch 2X Ultra Cover Multi-Purpose Paint And Primer in Flat White. The test file gives me black squares. When i use acetone it removes everything. On the spots that had the black squares the glazing of the tile is gone. Does this mean its burning to high or to low ? its also a 5.5w diode laser.
I believe the given settings are for a 20 W diode laser. A 5.5 W one might be not powerful enough. I just bought a 10 W one, hoping that using it at almost full power will be enough.
I have done some white tiles with this method and got so so results, then I got one perfect. That tile wasn't grey but pure black in the burnt areas. just today I did another at what I thought was same settings but I got some areas that did well before the image was cleaned only to find out there was no image under it. This was at 1600 at 40 percent on a 10watt output laser. I tried again at 1600 at 50 percent, the uncleaned image was perfect, but after cleaning with acetone it was a mess some areas burnt thru to the raw tile but no blackening some other areas were sort of ok. this batch of tiles was painted flat white two coats two weeks ago. How about a video showing possible mistakes and what it was that should be corrected
same; had better luck just painting tile black, printing, then acetone washing after. On a ortur3 70%/2000 mm/s is a good dark black; shades nicely on photos. (Anywhere the laser doesn't hit the acetone will wash off the paint.)
Tried a couple white paints; dark gray'ish was the best I could get.
To quickly place the tile I tape down a piece of cardboard (an old cereal box works). Then I draw a square the same size as my tile and put it on a line layer. Then lightly burn the square on the cardboard. Now you can put that square on a tool layer. Now aligned your design within that tool layer and put your tile inside the square you burned earlier and burn your tile. It probably takes less time to do it as it did to read this comment.
I am having a huge difficult time framing and using the rubberband frame in lightburn. I am trying to engrave a mirror and I did it two times before , but now, Lightburn will not frame for squat. It either frames completely way out of place or it starts engraving near the bottom left hand side. It won't center, and I am about to give up! This is aggravating. No matter what I do, it refuses to frame or center. I have moved the logo around and moved the laser all over the place to make it center or engrave correctly. I need some HELP! I am about ready to ship the D1 back. Nothing is working and it was fine before but I am wondering if the last update did something to change this. Can ANYONE give me some advice????
Have you seen this video on alignment. The Red Cross hairs frames the area when you use the frame button. It will not be ware the laser is moving. If you use the layer 29 as I show with 3 passes and .5 power will frame the laser point exactly. Please look at this video. It all part of the learning process. th-cam.com/video/1cmP6E86gM8/w-d-xo.html
I just updated my lightburn to 1.014 (the latest as of 2 May 2022). First of all I had a graphic with a box around it. When I engraved it... the box engraved 50% over my graphic, Nothing at all like it was on the screen. It did this twice to different degrees. Then... I lost all my artwork, it just showed names instead of pictures and it wouldn’t allow me to put the graphic into my project. Next all my artwork had disappeared. Now it says my cut and engraved file won’t load in. I’m ready to bin the software and hardware. I’ve been at it all day today and nothing will work. I’m feeling quite sick about it. I hope you had better luck. I’m using an Aufero professional (lol).
You can dry the latex paint with a heat gun quickly and laser engrave in minutes not hours and short order.
Yes, that works well when you are in a hurry. Thanks for watching
Try titanium dioxide and alcohol!!!
I have purchased some. Just have not done a video yet. Thank you very much
Getting a little frustrating trying to find the correct settings. I'm using a Onefinity machine with a Jtech 7w diode laser. I sprayed the 4.25x4.25 tiles lightly with Rust-Oleum 2X Ultracover in Smokey Beige Satin. The test burn looked pretty good with a 70% power and 15 ipm speed. When I burn images off of the free adult coloring they burn ok, I just wish the lines were a little darker. I have played with power up to 85% and speed down to 5 ipm. Just a slight difference. I originally was burning "cut on" line. I tried hatch fill on line. Again, only a slight difference. ( And of course every change I make increases the time . )
The key is the titanium dioxide, which is used to make paint white.
I’m engraving a tile now and it’s taken 4 hours and 15 minutes so far it’s only at 62%. The tile is 4”x4”. The laser seems to go slower and slower.
Did you solve your problem? Look at dpi. You can also set the white space speed higher.
@@PawPawsWorkShop I try to set the dpi pretty high. When the piece finished the paint wasn’t burnt and can flake off. I’m running an xTool D1 Pro 20 watt laser. The tile took over 6 hours to engrave.
The result without primer is interesting...
20 inch min/60 power
HOMEDEPOT (May 2022) source for paint $4.98 and 4x4 white tile $0.16 ea.
Thanks
😀👍👍👍👌
Thank you so much
Complete? For tiles yes but I believe this will work on other materials. I would like to see some of you influencers actually experimenting instead of going for the proven methods.
Have you also done any experimenting based on the projects that we have done as creators? Any ceramic product should produce similar results. Therefore, any ceramic item such as plates, bowls, cups, decorations. Anything made of ceramic. What material do you want to test? I and others have used wood, ceramic, glass, acrylic and different types of metal. What is left to test?
@@PawPawsWorkShop I've looked high and low for NWT method on glass.
@@PawPawsWorkShop incidentally I have 2 tiles and 4 Microscope slides painted with the 2x titanium gloss white. I'll report back later.
Just engrave on glass not NWT process
@@PawPawsWorkShop that's not what I want. I want to leave a raised design on glass rather than a traditional etch into the glass surface. Anyway I've done one glass slide and the design came out light gray. I'll go a little hotter or slower next time.
Not necessary. No paint is needed. Titanium dioxide and alcohol, spray it on 3 times and your ready to go.
Very true. I planning a video on this as well. Thank you very much
@@PawPawsWorkShop sweet, I’m having mixed results , blotchy sometimes.
10 minutes before we got to the painting. Life's too short for waffle like this.
That’s what fast forward is for. Pick an chose what part you need to learn
Are people clamoring for a black and white drawing on random tiles? DO these stand up to being in a show and harsh cleanbing and chemicals? Why is this a thing?
yes
@@SpideyScott72 no
I’ve tried to contact XTool and can’t get a response. I’ve sent 5 emails and NOTHING! interested in a D1 but not if their customer service is basically ZERO!
That’s very unusual. I know they are still having COVID lockdowns in some of the provinces in China