We had 150mph winds here in SWLA with Hurricane Laura last year and honestly there wasn't so much buildings being blown down, but the shingles and underlayment flying off and allowing rainwater in was some of the biggest issues across tens of thousands of homes here, so these extremely effective shingles are much more beneficial than it seems. Now don't get me wrong, there were structures that were completely ruined and tons of brick façade walls just loosening and falling, but most homes did not blow away even in the 130-150 mph winds we saw for nearly 3-4 hours last August.
The wind doesn’t blow the house down, until the roof is sucked off by the wind. Builders depend on gravity being stronger than the uplift of wind. Look at the nailing of framing; it’s all to resist side pressure, not up forces.
Honestly the whole home structure together can stand thise winds. Roofs are usually the first to fail due to pressure loads and basically turning your roof into an airplane wing. Once the roof goes the walls loose that structural help and fail easier. As well as broken windows and failed doors can increase pressure in the house as well.
Lol I got S$it on by Home Depot and others when I bought my 5/8 plywood and told them it was for a roof. They lost their minds as “that’s to thick, we only do 7/16 around here.” Etc etc. glad my engineer and I went 5/8 and 2 3/4 ring shanks. 3” on edges and 4-5” in the middles.
Go up on the north and west areas of any roof, and check to see how well all the edges sealed... and when supposed "pro" roofers offset an architectural shingle installation only 4" or less, all the way up along a hip, creates another vulnerable edge for winds to grab and remove huge sections. I've also seen that several times. Can't trust Any of these roofing guys, and they also dont like being watched and criticized for dumb stuff they do, or fail to do.. Difficult situations.
Can I critically watch you while making dinner or cleaning your house? There is a level of performance anxiety imposed that impedes your ability for nominal functionality….like you said “ difficult situations”.
Man, this was a great video. I worked on a roofing crew for a year or so in the late 90's, but I quit after hearing the foreman say, "You can't see it from my house," a few too many times when referring to blatantly inadequate workmanship. Even the guys who wanted to do a good job didn't know how to, because the senior guys were just laborers who worked their way up imitating what they saw other roofers do. Their job was just to nail down shingles, not to protect the homeowner from future problems. I had my roof replaced a few years ago after strong winds blew off half of a shoddy re-roof job, and while the overall workmanship was good, the drip edge and ice dam weren't overlapped properly considering that water runs downhill. It's a small thing that will likely never cause serious problems, but it also won't prevent problems. It was a small mistake that happened because of an inadequately trained crew. It's encouraging to listen to true professionals discussing how things can be done better.
My roof is 120 years old. Welsh slate, installed when the house was built. I know that you get different weather in the US but why do you build with such (to my mind, anyway) inferior materials? Surely, by now, there ought to be a better product than asphalt shingles?
the coolest roof I ever worked on was in NC, and it was a roof, over a roof (1920?)! Meaning, there was air flow between the two roofs. The inside roof, could be insulated right up to the roof deck! It must has been done well, because it kept going, and going and going.
I live in Corpus Christi and thought how we built (sheathing on exterior, LSTA straps everywhere, ect) was the norm. After watching Matt for a while and seeing in Austin the cardboard stuff on as sheathing, I was shocked. I'm about to start my 3rd build at the end of the year. I'm not building in Matt's customer's range, but some of these waterproofing details, just make sense, relatively cheap and are super easy to install. Keep up the good work. Love the details that you have been giving out. I also can't believe some of the builders are putting on the "flat" 20 year shingle in my area. I bought Dow Corning 30 year architectural shingles for about $0.77.sqft in 2019. How much are you really saving. They put that crap up on $300k houses in new subdivisions.
They are using that cardboard sheathing here around beaumont. Well, it's only one builder but when I saw it I was shocked. It will be full of mold in no time
I'm in Calallen and see it in about 1/3 of the homes being built here it's crazy. When we redo are roof I'm going 5/8" Zip with the 2.0 method, I had shingle failure at the rig when the last hurricane came through (luckily it was like 4 rig caps and very little water got in). Not going to have that happen again, doing a good under-layment and hidden fastener metal roof done well above code will stop that from happening again.
@@nickb.237 I havent seen Dr Horton here, it's America's first. They buy into the big subdivisions and build extremely cheap, 3 tab shingles, cardboard sheathing that's not even shingles correctly. I was amazed that it was possible thru code here but it is
Talk and certifications don't mean anything if you're crew doesn't install the roof correctly. At 10:39 the starters should be nailed at the drip edge not the top of the starter and at 15:36 he's installing the first shingle and there's no starter.
Agree with 10:39, nailed too high wind will rip shingles up On 15:36 he could have half the starter under it, when he finishes the course up he can slide the starter course under the un-nailed part of the shingle continuing his starter course. Video started at wrong spot. Or was edited to leave that detail out.
To be fair at 15:36 the starter shingle could be underneath the first shingle and will be installed at the start of the next line. Another note, what I can't identify what was being used here and they don't tell you is to get a manufactures full warranty you basically have to install a roof using their full range of products. Starter shingles, hip and ridge, ice and shield ect. Another thing I really dislike is the way the house was loaded. In Austin you had ABC deliver and roof load the shingles. DO NOT "break" bundles right on the ridge. Secure two bundles (parallel) on each side of the ridge and then stack bundles perpendicular so weight is supported both sides of the ridge. Prevents bundles bent down the middle which can lead to warped shingles.
I went by the MN and FL university research. I ended up using the rubber membrane that some call ice damn across the whole deck. The rubber membrane self seals and protects for nail removal. Used the 7/16 advantec decking. Both MN and FL state universities have extensive research on this, too.
With peel and stick on the entire roof, you're probably also going to have to replace the entire deck anytime it needs to be removed. It's probably the ideal answer in hurricane prone areas, but outside of those areas I personally wouldn't want it for my home. I've often thought about installing a baffle or membrane system (not peel and stick) on the interior of the roof that allows airflow in the attic area, but could also shed water out of the eve's air intakes should the worst case scenario happen. It would be a bit like a reverse roof in the attic. It could be sealed where needed with a little expanding foam. Alternatively, simply giving the attic the closed cell foam treatment would also be extremely effective if done in a way that still permits the attic to breathe. It would at least prevent or reduce interior water damage if the roof deck is still in place. EDIT: Let me add that I'm thinking of my older roof, built in the 30s with 4x1 boards. I like it a lot better than the OSB that I see being used universally now days. For that reason, I don't like the idea of using ice and water shield peel and stick on the entire roof.
@@danielcarter491 You are right but I use a longer life shingle. You have this problem when you replace the shingles in the Ice Dam guard area. The upper costs of replacing the decking materials vs. total damage to the house in high winds and other issues is lower overall as calculated at the University of Minnesota and Florida State in their tests. Nails rust less and there is no path through the membrane as winds try to pull your shingles off over the entire life of the roof. So I am hoping Total Cost of Ownership goes down over the 30 to 50 years. Even with cheaper shingles with damage over time total repairs will go down. ALSO, removal techniques for removing the membrane are improving so hopefully having to remove the entire deck may not be necessary... I'll be dead by the time my roof needs replacement... so if you are younger, maybe you can check up on it? Also the insurance company's reaction was to drop my house insurance costs by 2%, so there is something going on there.
Man, every time i was your videos i want to rebuild my house as a "Bomber" proof house. The biggest issue aside from cost is how to find a contractor(s) thats willing to do it right & do what im asking versus doing whatever they normally do.
100% this. I've been looking to get my roof redone, anything approaching stuff Matt suggests? "That's not materials we deal with", "That's overkill for your house"" and whatever other excuse they want to give to NOT do it, feels like if you bring any knowledge to the table your suddenly a troublesome possible customer. Rather annoying.
I've had the foreman tell me "oh yeah don't worry we'll do that, we'll do this, I'll make sure that gets done properly" but he's there a fraction of the time. The rest of the time the laborers from Guatemala and Columbia are just hammering it out the way it's been done since the 80s. These white boys like to nerd out on these videos about all this high tech new building techniques but it ain't gonna be no college educated white boy building your house. Every time I start a new project I just get sick and nauseous knowing I know have to watch people like a friggin hawk and constantly text a foreman who is never on site. Nobody will ever care as much about a home as the homeowner. No matter what slogan they have on the door of their truck.
It's hilarious that there are companies like these fortify guys who advise people on how to build roofs the way they should have always been built in the first place.
A lot of Texas builders were building with OX board cardboard sheathing. A man was blown from his bedroom out of the house onto the ground due to these essentially being the 3 little pigs straw edition.
Ahhh thermoply. Any sheathing you can cut with a razor knife should my outlawed imo. We use it only for air barrier on smaller dropped ceilings and interior, attic-backed walls like in a bonus room.
Great info! I finished my roof on my new construction about 3 months ago following all the information I could find and built over typical code. Low and behold I've done everything suggested in this video for the ultimate strong asphalt shingle roof. That and the shingles I bought are one of the higher performing impact shingles on Fortified's list. Thanks for the confirmation!
Matt, I do love how u showcase good products. It’s very informative to me, bc I see it as something I may install someday. I want to see what you have to say about finding good humans. The people. Right? What good are these products without the guys who make them work right? Products are great, but if you don’t have ppl, they are just products. Interested in seeing a video on your ppl.
I'm not seeing that starter strip you mentioned. That guy on the bottom of the screen at 15:35 is putting shingles right to the edge with no starter strip. Seems fishy. haha.
It’s funny because a few seconds later, the guy says how important it is that the roofer (installer) is on board too. I’ve worked with a ton of installers and it really is hard to find a crew that does the right thing every time, I’ve luckily found a crew that always does it right without having to be told or watched.
The starter strip he’s talking about is there at 15:35, it just looks like he has about a 1 inch overlap between it and the shingle. Which defeats the purpose. As a roofing contractor I’ve seen this way too many times.
In Norway its illegal to do anything over 2 meter without scaffolding. My roof is from 1930 original, going to replace it now, but its in good shape no rotten sub roof. I can recommend real wood for roofs osb and ply wood is like asking for problems.
Im sorry , but this other guy needs to be more direct on the info, he tends to runs around in circles and got on my nerves.....lol it could have been a 10 mi video
I can't believe that you guys never said a word about nail placement, I always nail on the nail line and one Inc from the edge of each shingle. I couldn't tell you how many roofs that I've seen guys nailing as far as 12 inches from the edge. You can have the best glue in the world but if it's not nailed properly it doesn't matter.
our roof is major messed up from baseball cluster hails one night then the next night sheer winds.. our adjuster tried to tell us they wouldn't cover previous wear... the roof is five years old and was in excellent shape, I know because I go up and clean the gutters twice a year.. thanks for the measley 2200.. what a jerk..
If the wind resistants of the fortified program is different enough, Are insurance companies lowering insurance for meeting the standard? Savings you can give the home owner over the long term.
@@bert1450 when I was a kid I'm 67 now the head of a roofing nail with almost the size of a nickel the head of a roofing now used in a coil nailer are probably approximately 50% less the head of the nail is what holds the shingle to the surface of the substrate besides the fact the clowns using the nail gun most of the time high now it or they're not going through the laminated portion of the shingle they're nailing it wrong which by the way voids the warranty
I just had a fortified roof quoted it was closer to 30% of the project cost *love your content Matt but the fortified guy doesn't know how much his program and certifications actually cost*
That would be waaaay too much on the total job cost. I just had the roof replaced on a 15 yr old house 5% of my total rebuild cost is 25% more than the cost of my entire roof replacement.
While the FORTIFIED standards are available to use as a guide (and can be downloaded here for free: fortifiedhome.org/standards/), there are costs associated with gaining the added protection they offer. Because FORTIFIED requires upgrades from common building codes, there will be extra costs to cover the materials and labor that make homes stronger. These costs will vary based on your home’s individual design, as well as the specific requirements of the building code in your area. Additionally, there is a cost to obtaining third-party verification of the FORTIFIED upgrades, which is required in order to receive the designation needed for most insurance discounts and mitigation credits. That said, upgrading to a newly constructed FORTIFIED Gold home can add 1%-3% to the total budget. When re-roofing a 2,000-square-foot home, the cost increase is typically between $1,000 and $3,000.
Wrong assumption that roofing contractors will follow the guidelines meticulously. The workers doing the work have to share the same values and concerns as the owner. Rarely does that happen unless the owner is on site overseeing and inspecting all thework being done.
THANK YOU VERY MUCH BROTHER FRED !!!! I HAVE 4 BROTHERS MYSELF , ONE IS NAMED FRED ....what you said is absolutely correct , and part of the PROBLEM !!!!!!
Staples beat 8s in my book. Been a carpenter for 18 years and have torn off my fair share of sheets, whether it's floor, wall or roof, new and old. I gotta say, a properly stapled sheet will NOT come off. The osb will break before you can pop staples loose, while a sheet nailed with 8s can be pried off fairly easily with leverage. Ring shanks are very good, but even slightly over-driven nails reduce pull out capacity significantly. Cheers
Taking apart broken docks in Florida after big storms has shown that ring shanks come out of wood like they were put in with butter. Smooth nails are harder to pull than ring shanks, and spiral nails are king.
I would wholeheartedly disagree. You cant pull off a sheet of OSB with ring shanks without breaking the sheet. No one around here uses staples, but the few applications I've come across, especially stapled shingles, they come out quite easy.
@@PartTimeYooperit sounds like you dont have much experience with staples in osb. Stapled shingles aren't even code anymore here, and haven't been for a very long time. With 3" o.c. spacing on edges and 4-6 in field depending on municipality, you simply can not remove a sheet of ply. But I can remove a sheet with ring shanks. Whether the nail comes out, or pulls through the plywood, I am able to pull a full sheet off. With staples, you have to cut the sheet up and smash it to bits, there is no pulling. What i think the main problem is, in the real world, is nail guns and laziness with a hammer. The depth has to be set properly and actuator pressure consistent or else you will be constantly over- and under-driving fastners.
@@ibiubu99 I am not wind... But I have pulled off many sheets in my career and these are my real world findings. In the process of building my house and I am definitely using staples. Truth be told MOST roofs here in Michigan aren't nailed or stapled properly with proper spacing. It's a bad problem here from my point of view.. There isn't a thorough roof sheathing inspection.
In California, Roof deck is tied to shear wall for seismic. Staples do not have the tinsel strength of nails. They do make structural screws that have the same strength as its nail equivalent
product ads are cheap but a gym membership is too much? take care of yourself... hope you do some work at your house. Would love to see a video of you installing things.
That's definitely something good to know. I do, however, question how often people are making warranty claims on roof shingles compared to those making insurance claims after a storm. Also, shingle companies appear to be even better than insurance companies at denying claims: www.roofingcalc.com/pros-cons-atlas-shingles/
@@mefferso04 That's a good point...in case of a bad storm its most likely the insurance company that's footing the bill. I'm glad you've brought this up, because i like the Atlas shingles
Shingle warranties aren't worth the paper they are written on. They ONE cover depreciated shingle materials ONLY unless it was installed by a certified roofer for that brand, and even then, they always try some BS like you use too many nails, too few nails, etc. Just do what I did to the Certaineed rep who denied a claim from faulty shingles. We asked him to check out one more area, and then pulled the ladder off the roof. I told him to sit up there and think about what a shitty company he worked for and how he was screwing over a hardworking client of mine.
Seems like with all the waste plastic in the world manufacturers could make a plastic roof that would last forever. Manufacturing a plastic roof shingle panel would provide a market for all the recycled plastic that is collected. Manufacturers need to use more recycled materials in their manufacturing process. Seems like a lifetime roof should be the goal. Reroofing every 20 or 30 years is a waste of time and money.
HOAs will likely not approve longterm recycled products. They like sending letters requiring updating and they have no common sense when it comes to costs. You'll have to get state regulations requiring HOAs to comply with new innovative quality products.
Plastic does not handle UV damage from sunlight. Even plastic decks like Trex use a different outside material than the core (which is cheap recycled plastic)
can you do a video on different types of cladding for cold climates e.g. bricks, blocks, render foam, hebel, hardy boards, stone cladding, and the differences in isulation with each of the products.
sadly, we tried quoting our roof for a new build and the price difference is quite astronomical (10K vs 21K to go with a Fortified certified roofing contractor
If you are going to increase the cost 5-10% by taping the seams, you might as well just cover the whole roof in ice and water, as that tape probably isnt going to hold in a high wind storm either.
@@augustreil Zip tape after pressure rolling with a j roller ain't gonna budge. I used the zip stretch tape around a ptac (hotel style ac unit) opening, messed it up on a corner. Thought I could roll it flat. Nope. Had to cut it off with my knife and multitool blade.
@@believerscc that's assuming you can get a good, clean surface. Maybe for new construction, but I'm not going to tear off a roof on existing house, spend time to tape each seam, and then go through the rest of the motions with ice/water and underlayment. As I said before, and for a 5-10% markup, ice/water the entire roof and know you are covered way better than just tape. Only downside is the NEXT reshingle is always a best
Matt you need to do a episode on the proper order on getting started. You have 4 items icing,tar paper, drip edge, starter strip. The shingle manufacturer can't even get on the same page.
I don’t like how we have wood construction in the US. We have tornados in the Midwest and south, and hurricanes in the gulf and east coast. We need to build out of concrete. Also doesn’t rot or suffer termite damage. I hear people all the time visit the US from other parts of the world comment a lot how flimsy our houses are. In other parts of the world, wood are what shacks are made from until you save enough money to build a proper house of concrete, steel, or masonry.
Respectfully disagree. It's quality of construction and materials choices and almost more critically, design decisions that actually make a house flimsy or well built. Comes down to lowest common denominator building and designing and short term profit margins for subdivisions and tract home builders. Every material has it's strengths and wood is certainly no exception.
Enjoy the professional content you and your crew put together. My only concern, the shakiness of the video. Suggest using a tripod and/or a gimbal to stabilize the video content. High quality, detailed content deserves the same attention to detail in the video production. God bless.
It looks like Atlas is trying to Re-Brand themselves and step up their game. I like the larger shingle size. As far as the SBS Polymers, The Malarkey Legacy Impact Resistant shingles are IMHO the best on the market for years for preventing hail damage. The Malarkey has had the Patent on the SBS Polymer technology, I don't know what happened, But The Atlas Pinnacle shingle though, is famous for what looked like light to medium hail damage when it aged, because the granule would pop off when moisture would get behind. The granule in what looked like it had a coating mixed together, But Insurance adjusters see it afar off.... And they will tell you it is Not hail damage... But that being said, actual hail damage will look a little different.
My cheap place in San Diego was built in the 50's, The roof is 3/8" ply with 2 layers of shingles with rafters 24 on center". For some crazy reason, we have never had a problem with now second layer 20-year asphalt shingle roof.
Hi Wally, In 2003, 1/2" plywood went from 5-Ply to 3-Ply.... What that means is, on the 3-Ply, if one of the plies is stronger on one face side than the other face side, it will curl. If it starts curling, you can use many long screws, but will pull away from the screws. OSB does not warp like plywood.... It stays nice and flat. Yes the plywood is more rigid, but you don't have the decking lines in the roof from warping, visibly seen after you shingle the roof.
@@wally6193 other problem with OSB is fire, all the glue in the OSB is very flammable. Plywood will burn fast too but not as fast as OSB according to what I read on the internet from people claiming to be FireFighters. They said Building collapse happens faster w OSB instead of plywood. -Go grab a torch and carefully test it in your own backyard.
I know this is basically HERETICAL , but if you do use OSB , AND I know the roof is supposed to BREATHE , you might consider putting the vapor barrier side UP INSTEAD OF DOWN , SO DAMMAGES WOULD HAPPEN MOSTLY ON THE PERIPHERY .... I HAVE SHEATED AND FELTED MORE ROOFS THAN I CAN COUNT SINCE THE MID TO LATE 80'S , RIGHT AROUND THE TIME THEY SWITCHED OVER TO OSB FROM PLYWOOD , AND FOR THE LIFE OF ME I DO NOT KNOW WHY !!!!!! NAIL THE YWOOD DOWN THE SAME DAY YOU PUT IT ON .....GOOD !!!!!
You can have OSB : I GOT NO USE FOR IT ....... although I do like the lines they put at 16 and 24 " marks , if you throw some more money at em ........
He said 8 shingles less per square? That can't be correct. It would be 1 shingle total per square. Traditional square of shingles covers 98.4 sf. This covers 100 sf. Each shingle by Atlas covers 1.75 sf at 42" wide with 6" reveal. That is 1.75 sf of coverage. Sorry 8 shingles is wayyyyyy off.
LOL, 5-10%? my roof bid went from 25k to 46k with fortified, and that was only after searching through 10-15 companies and only finding one that would even give me the time of day to research it. Its not even remotely a 'small cost' it was fucking 90% price increase.
Mistake #1 roofing with asphalt shingles. It should be outlawed. Use metal. Steel, aluminium but don't waste your time and money with asphalt. Mistake #2 sheathing your roof with chip board, OSB or aspenite. Use plywood and nothing but. OSB and aspenite roof deck are another sub par product that can barely stand up to two asphalt roofs. Cheap cheap stuff. Even the "tape" demo video uses Plywood not OSB.
22 years ago in Reno/Tahoe area we were putting down 5/8 OSB 3” ring shanks 6” on the seams, 8” in the field to attach the roof decking- we never had them fail, blow off in 75mph winds or buckle under snow load.
I’m in south Florida and want to get a better roof. Luckily I have a hip roof. It’s strange but they don’t do anything special here. They did change to 2 30lb tar paper layers. I plan on adding in a waterproof membrane over the 2 layers of tar paper. I believe it’s 6” tins or plastic holding down here everywhere including the field. I will absolutely check FORTIFIED’s website. Starter shingles here with tar holding it down here.
OSB is garbage, that roof deck should be 5/8 plywood; especially for upscale houses. Makes me wonder what they used on the inside; 1/4 drywall? Builders use crap these days.
When I did the roof on my 60+ year old house with a 40+ year old addition in SW Michigan last summer I stripped off four layers of shingles stacked on top of each other on the oldest part of the roof.
I sure hope your home is a lot older than 60 years if it had 4 roofs, unless one was rolled roofing. People should never, ever do more than 2 layers and really it should always be stripped it possible
@@PartTimeYooper yeah the bottom layer was rolled roofing. The house was built in 1954. I'm guessing the addition was built sometime in the '70s or '80s. I purchased it in December 2019. No leaks that I saw but there were some soft spots when I walked on it so I knew there was some rotted decking to be dealt with. It was actually the OSB decking on the addition that was rotted. The original 1954 roof was decked with hardwood planks that showed no signs of rot. Buried under all those shingles I guess the wood was pretty well protected.
I have thought a lot about that myself , and all I can come up with is the screws may be IMPOSSIBLE TO GET OUT AT A LATER DATE , AND YOU MIGHT NEED TO CUT THE RAFTERS out also in places . If I do use screws for anything , I usually put a piece of masking tape over it , to help the situation out in the future at least somewhat ... for example , if screws ARE painted over several times , you either need to dig the head of the screw out with a utility knife or whatever , or tear the whole assembly down !!!! One of my old bosses had a most wonderful screw-up that was on a shaft , about 32" or 3' long , that we used to screw down subflooring from a standing position !!!!!! DONT KNOW WHO MADE IT BUT IT WAS LITERALLY PRICELESS : I BELIEVE HE PAID ABOUT $550 for it ..... KEEP THINKING BUDDY !!!!!!
It has been a building a while and to keep up with the demand he's been doing product walk throughs. He's good at making it obvious for a pro, for a layperson not so much.
You are exactly right. The trucks must pull up to his house to deliver free materials every other day. The Project Farm channel has gained nearly 3 million subscribers by steadfastly refusing to accept donations of goods for testing. As a direct result when Todd Osgood reports test results his credibility is sky high. Matt might be sponsored by companies with good products, and he has useful information, but his sales pitches are pretty thick. I would love to know how much schwag he gets, and what it’s worth.
Every builder has to evaluate products and brands. Matt offers a helpful resource. Maybe these are products you wouldn’t ordinarily find. I’m so glad I found Rokwool, maybe not originally from Matt. Otherwise I’d be stuck with blown in or pink cotton candy.
I’ve never met a crew that wasn’t mine that doesn’t blow nails through shingles. Especially in the summer. If you’re a roofer, get a pressure regulator and a gun that has an easy depth adjustment. Doesn’t matter what brand of shingle you use if you don’t monitor nail placement and depth
A radiant barrier on the plywood deck is waterproof, if treated like tar paper. Don't forget the 1" air gap spacing in between the roofing material and the radiant barrier! Yes, who wants water on the living room floor, isnt that ridiculous! Also, can you please make the asphalt shingle resistant to heat like a fire brick?
At about two minutes they’re showing some b roll of wind blowing a roof off a structure and if you look closely, it appears that deck was Fortified. At least all the seams were taped and that’s not common for regular decking but it’s very common for four deified roofs. Kind of ironic if you ask me
Contractors never peel of the plastic film on the back of the shingles so they bond better, and always flap in the wind, fixed my roof 4 times is 11 years. Idiot - lazy ass proof roofing solution is needed. Hurricane straps and other methods to keep the roof from being blown off ....
I have over 45 years of field experience, stop with the core 4 crap okay? What is the polymer used, what percent is added to the asphalt? What is the mat made of ( fiberglass?) What is the cost. Taping over sheathing joints is a waste of time and money, synthetic base is usually better than asphalt felt which are terrible mostly due to non strand fiber matting materials.
The roofing nails are also an important often overlooked component. Todays “eg” electro-galvanized (China) are failing after 5 years. I only use “hot dipped” made in USA or stainless. No issues.
As much as I hate electro galvanized crap it shouldn't be a problem if the nails are placed properly, they shouldn't get wet. Hot dip galvanized are way better but damn they are way more expensive.
What happened to following OSHA safety requirements for roof installation? Most of the people on the roof you show putting on the roof aren't properly tied off. I would NEVER hire a firm that doesn't follow OSHA requirements, someone gets hurt and it could cost a fortune. I was always impressed on your own house build everyone was properly tied off.
Homeowner can't do squat. By the time the crew is up their doing stupid crap hone owner has already signed the contract and NO one on that crew can (or will) speak to you (in English, that is). Whatdya gonna do, say, "get down, now!" ?
@@willbass2869 i agree, but builder and homeowner have to hire good firms and has to verify that the firm they use will follow OSHA requirements, typically costs a little more but could save a great deal of money if there is an accident. I am surprised that Matt links to firms who don't follow OSHA requirements!
@@OtterBeSwimming i much agree on your last point about Matt. But I figure he has a video production & upload schedule and only gets one shot. He aint in Hollywood with multiple 'retakes', that's for sure
Modern underlayment is for quick protection before the shingles go on and does nothing after the roof is installed. When the shingles tear off there are thousands of holes for water to go through. The marketing is deplorable.
Roof Deck: Random Width rough sawn 1x boards, hand nailed in place Underlayment: Nothing, unless you need felt because it's going to rain during the install Roof material: Locally quarried slate Fasteners and flashing: Copper or stainless Lifetime: 100 years easy Wind resistance: Good enough
Check out the University of Minnesota and Florida State University on this subject. The idea is going to be code in Florida some day, and MN is eyeing it.
I'm no engineer but either your bottom layer would have to be thick enough to serve as a structural member or the top layer would have to be fastened to the roof trusses. You could get an engineer to speck it out for your wind code and they would show nailing details for either scenario. I really like the idea of two sheathing layers for venting. It seems like it would solve a lot of the small issues with sealed atticks
@@squeekhobby4571 that's exactly how I feel as well. I even read an article about a guy that did techshield on the top layer to limit the thermal pass thru. I would love to do it to my house
your fundamental problem is your using , small sheets /shingle s, use a tin/metal roofing , long continuous sheet from ridge to gutter . Never have to do a roof more than once ,,,
When I bought my current house (25-year-old doublewide) here in Tucson, it had been empty for 7 years. The roof over one of the bedrooms and over the master bath were completely destroyed. Both the ceilings and floors had to be completely replaced, over the bedroom I had to replace all the way down to the deck. There were also several other places that needed to be repaired. I took the time to examine all the shingles to make sure that all of the edges were bonded to the bottom layer. For those that weren't, I added tar to create that bond. I probably should have replaced the entire roof, including the deck (the original deck material is clearly too thin), but patching cost me probably $600 vs $6000. For me, I'd rather keep on top of examining and repairing the roof I have rather than spend the extra $5400. This is, after all, just a manufactured home.
I'm a fan of covering the entire roof deck (preferably ZIP 5/8" sheathing with ZIP liquid flashing and/or ZIP tape) with Grace Ultra 100% butyl adhesive underlayment. It chemically bonds with the deck much better than fasteners, and it provides protection from temperature and water & ice when lapped over itself. But more importantly it seals around the roof fasteners that you will eventually riddle it with when installing your final roof material.
But what did the first guy mean by your roof decking has to breath? I did a ice and water shield over the e tire roof and it’s been water proof for several months now. Now I’m wondering what could fail since it’s so air tight.
Depending where you're located at that could be considered a Bonafide vapor barrier not allowing the moisture from the attic space to rise through the roof
Home owners insurance doesnt cover the head aches and time when you have mold after a storm. Up until last year or so, Texas coastal counties could only get windstorm insurance by TWIA, which is a separate wind policy from your hazard policy, with its own deductible. TWIA isn't very popular with us down here and they love hiking the rates any chance they get. Ask any one in Rockport, Corpus Christi or on Padre Island. Water intrusion plus power outage plus a week of hot humidity = no bueno. I'm a home and mold inspector in Corpus Christi and did inspections after Hurricane Harvey so people could fight their insurance adjusters who spent MAYBE 10 mins looking at the house.
When the hell did a 10-year old house become an "OLD" house?
It never did. It’s older but not old. I consider anything built in 1960-90 old.
After 1990 haaaaa
when large builders started cutting so many corers they have round houses
Cuz the Insurance industry says so
Your poor like me😊
150mph winds blows my house down but my shingles wasn’t damaged lol 😂
We had 150mph winds here in SWLA with Hurricane Laura last year and honestly there wasn't so much buildings being blown down, but the shingles and underlayment flying off and allowing rainwater in was some of the biggest issues across tens of thousands of homes here, so these extremely effective shingles are much more beneficial than it seems. Now don't get me wrong, there were structures that were completely ruined and tons of brick façade walls just loosening and falling, but most homes did not blow away even in the 130-150 mph winds we saw for nearly 3-4 hours last August.
The wind doesn’t blow the house down, until the roof is sucked off by the wind. Builders depend on gravity being stronger than the uplift of wind. Look at the nailing of framing; it’s all to resist side pressure, not up forces.
@@johnchristopher20 I would build with ICF but you have to be careful to pick the right system.
Honestly the whole home structure together can stand thise winds. Roofs are usually the first to fail due to pressure loads and basically turning your roof into an airplane wing. Once the roof goes the walls loose that structural help and fail easier. As well as broken windows and failed doors can increase pressure in the house as well.
Lol I got S$it on by Home Depot and others when I bought my 5/8 plywood and told them it was for a roof. They lost their minds as “that’s to thick, we only do 7/16 around here.” Etc etc. glad my engineer and I went 5/8 and 2 3/4 ring shanks. 3” on edges and 4-5” in the middles.
Always found it funny when people spend hundreds of thousands (or more) on a house but cheap out on a roof.
Exactly! Also, why not go with metal or tile roof, which are more expensive, but guarantee to stay even during hurricane and hail, AND LAST 20+ YEARS!
Go up on the north and west areas of any roof, and check to see how well all the edges sealed... and when supposed "pro" roofers offset an architectural shingle installation only 4" or less, all the way up along a hip, creates another vulnerable edge for winds to grab and remove huge sections. I've also seen that several times. Can't trust Any of these roofing guys, and they also dont like being watched and criticized for dumb stuff they do, or fail to do.. Difficult situations.
Can I critically watch you while making dinner or cleaning your house? There is a level of performance anxiety imposed that impedes your ability for nominal functionality….like you said “ difficult situations”.
@@corinnemuir1542 watch? these days it's videoed as well (and maybe in 'real time' for online viewing)! 🎥🎬⚖
Man, this was a great video. I worked on a roofing crew for a year or so in the late 90's, but I quit after hearing the foreman say, "You can't see it from my house," a few too many times when referring to blatantly inadequate workmanship. Even the guys who wanted to do a good job didn't know how to, because the senior guys were just laborers who worked their way up imitating what they saw other roofers do. Their job was just to nail down shingles, not to protect the homeowner from future problems. I had my roof replaced a few years ago after strong winds blew off half of a shoddy re-roof job, and while the overall workmanship was good, the drip edge and ice dam weren't overlapped properly considering that water runs downhill. It's a small thing that will likely never cause serious problems, but it also won't prevent problems. It was a small mistake that happened because of an inadequately trained crew. It's encouraging to listen to true professionals discussing how things can be done better.
absolutely nobody:
not a single soul:
matt: bomber
Groovy man.
B-O-M-B-E-R :D
Matt gets a free soda at in and out burger: BOMBER!
@@triggeredtroll6466 "HELLO AND WELCOME...
IIINNNNNN THE BOMBER SHOW!"
@@sgtace you know his kids lose it when he says that in public 🤣🤣🤣 "dad! No one says that! Please stop!"
My roof is 120 years old. Welsh slate, installed when the house was built. I know that you get different weather in the US but why do you build with such (to my mind, anyway) inferior materials? Surely, by now, there ought to be a better product than asphalt shingles?
'So much more bomber!?'
You sound like a teenager spending daddy's money at the mall.
Damn, 10 yo house needing a new roof?
Must have used Atlas shingles!
Pretty typical in areas of Texas
Not uncommon after storm damage
@@swingerhead idk, I live in Tampa Bay.
Welcome to Texas!
Get your camera man a tripod ffs so he doesn't have to dance around. This is not Hardcore Henry.
Ya, felt sorry for him, looked like he needed a bathroom break.
the coolest roof I ever worked on was in NC, and it was a roof, over a roof (1920?)! Meaning, there was air flow between the two roofs. The inside roof, could be insulated right up to the roof deck! It must has been done well, because it kept going, and going and going.
Insulated vented nail base comes close?
When I build my dream home, there will not be a single nail anywhere in the construction.
I live in Corpus Christi and thought how we built (sheathing on exterior, LSTA straps everywhere, ect) was the norm. After watching Matt for a while and seeing in Austin the cardboard stuff on as sheathing, I was shocked. I'm about to start my 3rd build at the end of the year. I'm not building in Matt's customer's range, but some of these waterproofing details, just make sense, relatively cheap and are super easy to install. Keep up the good work. Love the details that you have been giving out. I also can't believe some of the builders are putting on the "flat" 20 year shingle in my area. I bought Dow Corning 30 year architectural shingles for about $0.77.sqft in 2019. How much are you really saving. They put that crap up on $300k houses in new subdivisions.
They are using that cardboard sheathing here around beaumont. Well, it's only one builder but when I saw it I was shocked. It will be full of mold in no time
@@keithray9194 DR Horton/DSLD is trash, and they are ruining home values in the Lake Charles area.
I'm in Calallen and see it in about 1/3 of the homes being built here it's crazy. When we redo are roof I'm going 5/8" Zip with the 2.0 method, I had shingle failure at the rig when the last hurricane came through (luckily it was like 4 rig caps and very little water got in). Not going to have that happen again, doing a good under-layment and hidden fastener metal roof done well above code will stop that from happening again.
@@TdrSld Nice, we had water blown into the ridge vent and dripped down into the attic, Laura was absolutely insane and reeked havoc on our area.
@@nickb.237 I havent seen Dr Horton here, it's America's first. They buy into the big subdivisions and build extremely cheap, 3 tab shingles, cardboard sheathing that's not even shingles correctly. I was amazed that it was possible thru code here but it is
Talk and certifications don't mean anything if you're crew doesn't install the roof correctly. At 10:39 the starters should be nailed at the drip edge not the top of the starter and at 15:36 he's installing the first shingle and there's no starter.
I agree! There’s no pride in workmanship anymore.
Agree with 10:39, nailed too high wind will rip shingles up
On 15:36 he could have half the starter under it, when he finishes the course up he can slide the starter course under the un-nailed part of the shingle continuing his starter course. Video started at wrong spot. Or was edited to leave that detail out.
To be fair at 15:36 the starter shingle could be underneath the first shingle and will be installed at the start of the next line.
Another note, what I can't identify what was being used here and they don't tell you is to get a manufactures full warranty you basically have to install a roof using their full range of products. Starter shingles, hip and ridge, ice and shield ect.
Another thing I really dislike is the way the house was loaded. In Austin you had ABC deliver and roof load the shingles. DO NOT "break" bundles right on the ridge. Secure two bundles (parallel) on each side of the ridge and then stack bundles perpendicular so weight is supported both sides of the ridge. Prevents bundles bent down the middle which can lead to warped shingles.
I went by the MN and FL university research. I ended up using the rubber membrane that some call ice damn across the whole deck. The rubber membrane self seals and protects for nail removal. Used the 7/16 advantec decking. Both MN and FL state universities have extensive research on this, too.
This I believed is the best way to go
With peel and stick on the entire roof, you're probably also going to have to replace the entire deck anytime it needs to be removed. It's probably the ideal answer in hurricane prone areas, but outside of those areas I personally wouldn't want it for my home.
I've often thought about installing a baffle or membrane system (not peel and stick) on the interior of the roof that allows airflow in the attic area, but could also shed water out of the eve's air intakes should the worst case scenario happen. It would be a bit like a reverse roof in the attic. It could be sealed where needed with a little expanding foam. Alternatively, simply giving the attic the closed cell foam treatment would also be extremely effective if done in a way that still permits the attic to breathe. It would at least prevent or reduce interior water damage if the roof deck is still in place.
EDIT: Let me add that I'm thinking of my older roof, built in the 30s with 4x1 boards. I like it a lot better than the OSB that I see being used universally now days. For that reason, I don't like the idea of using ice and water shield peel and stick on the entire roof.
@@danielcarter491 You are right but I use a longer life shingle. You have this problem when you replace the shingles in the Ice Dam guard area. The upper costs of replacing the decking materials vs. total damage to the house in high winds and other issues is lower overall as calculated at the University of Minnesota and Florida State in their tests. Nails rust less and there is no path through the membrane as winds try to pull your shingles off over the entire life of the roof. So I am hoping Total Cost of Ownership goes down over the 30 to 50 years. Even with cheaper shingles with damage over time total repairs will go down. ALSO, removal techniques for removing the membrane are improving so hopefully having to remove the entire deck may not be necessary... I'll be dead by the time my roof needs replacement... so if you are younger, maybe you can check up on it? Also the insurance company's reaction was to drop my house insurance costs by 2%, so there is something going on there.
Besides better roofs and shingles, we also need deadcats for mics! 😁 My ear thanks you.
Man, every time i was your videos i want to rebuild my house as a "Bomber" proof house.
The biggest issue aside from cost is how to find a contractor(s) thats willing to do it right & do what im asking versus doing whatever they normally do.
Not only willing, but able - do they know enough to do it right vs. what they have always done? And then the crew actually doing the work...
100% this. I've been looking to get my roof redone, anything approaching stuff Matt suggests? "That's not materials we deal with", "That's overkill for your house"" and whatever other excuse they want to give to NOT do it, feels like if you bring any knowledge to the table your suddenly a troublesome possible customer. Rather annoying.
Or they tell you they will do and then you find out they didn't. You have to watch them like a hawk!
I've had the foreman tell me "oh yeah don't worry we'll do that, we'll do this, I'll make sure that gets done properly" but he's there a fraction of the time. The rest of the time the laborers from Guatemala and Columbia are just hammering it out the way it's been done since the 80s. These white boys like to nerd out on these videos about all this high tech new building techniques but it ain't gonna be no college educated white boy building your house. Every time I start a new project I just get sick and nauseous knowing I know have to watch people like a friggin hawk and constantly text a foreman who is never on site. Nobody will ever care as much about a home as the homeowner. No matter what slogan they have on the door of their truck.
@@schtinerbock4570
Hire an architect. He'll do the watching.
30x8 is 120?!? It’s just math….learned in grade school….smh
It's hilarious that there are companies like these fortify guys who advise people on how to build roofs the way they should have always been built in the first place.
You could always challenge the builders to a fight in the parking lot at 3:00 after school.
@@chucky187 only if they touch me.
i watched a new build (not mine) put ashphalt shingles on a roof directly ont he OSB boards. no weather gaurd or anything?
So true.. These techniques were taught in the union programs..
A lot of Texas builders were building with OX board cardboard sheathing. A man was blown from his bedroom out of the house onto the ground due to these essentially being the 3 little pigs straw edition.
Unfortunately they're still building with that cardboard crap.
People hide in homes but when you think about it there's not much between you and nature except thing walls if it's brick.
Ahhh thermoply. Any sheathing you can cut with a razor knife should my outlawed imo. We use it only for air barrier on smaller dropped ceilings and interior, attic-backed walls like in a bonus room.
The craziest thing about that cardboard is it's not even cheaper than osb!
Great info! I finished my roof on my new construction about 3 months ago following all the information I could find and built over typical code. Low and behold I've done everything suggested in this video for the ultimate strong asphalt shingle roof. That and the shingles I bought are one of the higher performing impact shingles on Fortified's list. Thanks for the confirmation!
Matt, I do love how u showcase good products. It’s very informative to me, bc I see it as something I may install someday. I want to see what you have to say about finding good humans. The people. Right? What good are these products without the guys who make them work right? Products are great, but if you don’t have ppl, they are just products. Interested in seeing a video on your ppl.
I'm not seeing that starter strip you mentioned. That guy on the bottom of the screen at 15:35 is putting shingles right to the edge with no starter strip. Seems fishy. haha.
Hmmmmm
It’s funny because a few seconds later, the guy says how important it is that the roofer (installer) is on board too. I’ve worked with a ton of installers and it really is hard to find a crew that does the right thing every time, I’ve luckily found a crew that always does it right without having to be told or watched.
@@widjadija Lottery winner....
It was a...
The starter strip he’s talking about is there at 15:35, it just looks like he has about a 1 inch overlap between it and the shingle. Which defeats the purpose. As a roofing contractor I’ve seen this way too many times.
In Norway its illegal to do anything over 2 meter without scaffolding. My roof is from 1930 original, going to replace it now, but its in good shape no rotten sub roof. I can recommend real wood for roofs osb and ply wood is like asking for problems.
fixed the roof 4 times in 11 years, the three little pigs and the wolf story It applies to 99% of houses in North America... :(
30 minutes of salesman nonsense
Houses in Australia do not use asphalt shingles. Due to Bushfire ember attack, rainwater collection on rural properties and cyclones on the coast.
Im sorry , but this other guy needs to be more direct on the info, he tends to runs around in circles and got on my nerves.....lol
it could have been a 10 mi video
Mr. Risinger: Life Roofing and lack of fall protection are an oxymoron...
I can't believe that you guys never said a word about nail placement, I always nail on the nail line and one Inc from the edge of each shingle.
I couldn't tell you how many roofs that I've seen guys nailing as far as 12 inches from the edge.
You can have the best glue in the world but if it's not nailed properly it doesn't matter.
Are you serious? How many people can you fit on one roof
10yr old house needing a new roof? The inspectors need to do their jobs better...builders get away with ALOT
our roof is major messed up from baseball cluster hails one night then the next night sheer winds..
our adjuster tried to tell us they wouldn't cover previous wear... the roof is five years old and was in excellent shape, I know because I go up and clean the gutters twice a year.. thanks for the measley 2200.. what a jerk..
If the wind resistants of the fortified program is different enough, Are insurance companies lowering insurance for meeting the standard? Savings you can give the home owner over the long term.
Great question. That is the key.
@@bert1450 when I was a kid I'm 67 now the head of a roofing nail with almost the size of a nickel the head of a roofing now used in a coil nailer are probably approximately 50% less the head of the nail is what holds the shingle to the surface of the substrate besides the fact the clowns using the nail gun most of the time high now it or they're not going through the laminated portion of the shingle they're nailing it wrong which by the way voids the warranty
I just had a fortified roof quoted it was closer to 30% of the project cost
*love your content Matt but the fortified guy doesn't know how much his program and certifications actually cost*
Of the total house build cost right?
That would be waaaay too much on the total job cost. I just had the roof replaced on a 15 yr old house 5% of my total rebuild cost is 25% more than the cost of my entire roof replacement.
While the FORTIFIED standards are available to use as a guide (and can be downloaded here for free: fortifiedhome.org/standards/), there are costs associated with gaining the added protection they offer. Because FORTIFIED requires upgrades from common building codes, there will be extra costs to cover the materials and labor that make homes stronger. These costs will vary based on your home’s individual design, as well as the specific requirements of the building code in your area.
Additionally, there is a cost to obtaining third-party verification of the FORTIFIED upgrades, which is required in order to receive the designation needed for most insurance discounts and mitigation credits. That said, upgrading to a newly constructed FORTIFIED Gold home can add 1%-3% to the total budget. When re-roofing a 2,000-square-foot home, the cost increase is typically between $1,000 and $3,000.
I can’t believe some of the rooftop workers aren’t wearing safety harnesses.If they would fall off that high up probably wouldn’t make it.
What about the importance of the proper drip edge. I've seen major issued because the wrong drip is used.
"We pioneered this method" zip system beat you to it. Can't trust people that talk fast and talk alot
Wrong assumption that roofing contractors will follow the guidelines meticulously. The workers doing the work have to share the same values and concerns as the owner. Rarely does that happen unless the owner is on site overseeing and inspecting all thework being done.
THANK YOU VERY MUCH BROTHER FRED !!!! I HAVE 4 BROTHERS MYSELF , ONE IS NAMED FRED ....what you said is absolutely correct , and part of the PROBLEM !!!!!!
SUPER DAVE!!! I just realized who you remind me of! Lol
Damn, that's a blast from the past! lol
Asphalt roofs should be against the law.
Why's that ? Thanks.
Lightweight concrete tile roof shingles should be outlawed. You just look at it wrong and they break.
What do you suggest?
@@skliros9235 metal
@@amafid then don’t make them like 10 times more expensive. That should be against the law. Metal is dirt cheap!!
Shit tamko shingles going on
Staples beat 8s in my book. Been a carpenter for 18 years and have torn off my fair share of sheets, whether it's floor, wall or roof, new and old. I gotta say, a properly stapled sheet will NOT come off. The osb will break before you can pop staples loose, while a sheet nailed with 8s can be pried off fairly easily with leverage. Ring shanks are very good, but even slightly over-driven nails reduce pull out capacity significantly. Cheers
Taking apart broken docks in Florida after big storms has shown that ring shanks come out of wood like they were put in with butter. Smooth nails are harder to pull than ring shanks, and spiral nails are king.
I would wholeheartedly disagree. You cant pull off a sheet of OSB with ring shanks without breaking the sheet. No one around here uses staples, but the few applications I've come across, especially stapled shingles, they come out quite easy.
@@PartTimeYooperit sounds like you dont have much experience with staples in osb. Stapled shingles aren't even code anymore here, and haven't been for a very long time. With 3" o.c. spacing on edges and 4-6 in field depending on municipality, you simply can not remove a sheet of ply. But I can remove a sheet with ring shanks. Whether the nail comes out, or pulls through the plywood, I am able to pull a full sheet off. With staples, you have to cut the sheet up and smash it to bits, there is no pulling. What i think the main problem is, in the real world, is nail guns and laziness with a hammer. The depth has to be set properly and actuator pressure consistent or else you will be constantly over- and under-driving fastners.
@@ibiubu99 I am not wind... But I have pulled off many sheets in my career and these are my real world findings. In the process of building my house and I am definitely using staples.
Truth be told MOST roofs here in Michigan aren't nailed or stapled properly with proper spacing. It's a bad problem here from my point of view.. There isn't a thorough roof sheathing inspection.
In California, Roof deck is tied to shear wall for seismic. Staples do not have the tinsel strength of nails. They do make structural screws that have the same strength as its nail equivalent
Matt, definitely one of your best!!! WOW!!! Ton of great info and I like how you let these guys EXPLAIN their products....not SELL their products.
product ads are cheap but a gym membership is too much? take care of yourself... hope you do some work at your house. Would love to see a video of you installing things.
Atlas will void warranty on a spray foam, unvented, conditioned attic. Just a heads up! Stick with the big guys if going that route.
Which big guys?
That's definitely something good to know. I do, however, question how often people are making warranty claims on roof shingles compared to those making insurance claims after a storm.
Also, shingle companies appear to be even better than insurance companies at denying claims: www.roofingcalc.com/pros-cons-atlas-shingles/
@@mefferso04 That's a good point...in case of a bad storm its most likely the insurance company that's footing the bill. I'm glad you've brought this up, because i like the Atlas shingles
Shingle warranties aren't worth the paper they are written on. They ONE cover depreciated shingle materials ONLY unless it was installed by a certified roofer for that brand, and even then, they always try some BS like you use too many nails, too few nails, etc.
Just do what I did to the Certaineed rep who denied a claim from faulty shingles. We asked him to check out one more area, and then pulled the ladder off the roof.
I told him to sit up there and think about what a shitty company he worked for and how he was screwing over a hardworking client of mine.
Seems like with all the waste plastic in the world manufacturers could make a plastic roof that would last forever. Manufacturing a plastic roof shingle panel would provide a market for all the recycled plastic that is collected. Manufacturers need to use more recycled materials in their manufacturing process. Seems like a lifetime roof should be the goal. Reroofing every 20 or 30 years is a waste of time and money.
HOAs will likely not approve longterm recycled products. They like sending letters requiring updating and they have no common sense when it comes to costs. You'll have to get state regulations requiring HOAs to comply with new innovative quality products.
Plastic does not handle UV damage from sunlight. Even plastic decks like Trex use a different outside material than the core (which is cheap recycled plastic)
can you do a video on different types of cladding for cold climates e.g. bricks, blocks, render foam, hebel, hardy boards, stone cladding, and the differences in isulation with each of the products.
30x8=... 240 not 120
sadly, we tried quoting our roof for a new build and the price difference is quite astronomical (10K vs 21K to go with a Fortified certified roofing contractor
If you are going to increase the cost 5-10% by taping the seams, you might as well just cover the whole roof in ice and water, as that tape probably isnt going to hold in a high wind storm either.
Agree 100% That one guy peeled the tape right off after putting it on.
@@augustreil Zip tape after pressure rolling with a j roller ain't gonna budge. I used the zip stretch tape around a ptac (hotel style ac unit) opening, messed it up on a corner. Thought I could roll it flat. Nope. Had to cut it off with my knife and multitool blade.
Go buy some VHB tape and apply it as directed, lets see you try and remove it.
@@Jonjolt, Yeah, my bad. Spoke too soon, thanks.
@@believerscc that's assuming you can get a good, clean surface. Maybe for new construction, but I'm not going to tear off a roof on existing house, spend time to tape each seam, and then go through the rest of the motions with ice/water and underlayment.
As I said before, and for a 5-10% markup, ice/water the entire roof and know you are covered way better than just tape.
Only downside is the NEXT reshingle is always a best
Matt you need to do a episode on the proper order on getting started. You have 4 items icing,tar paper, drip edge, starter strip. The shingle manufacturer can't even get on the same page.
I don’t like how we have wood construction in the US. We have tornados in the Midwest and south, and hurricanes in the gulf and east coast. We need to build out of concrete. Also doesn’t rot or suffer termite damage. I hear people all the time visit the US from other parts of the world comment a lot how flimsy our houses are. In other parts of the world, wood are what shacks are made from until you save enough money to build a proper house of concrete, steel, or masonry.
Respectfully disagree. It's quality of construction and materials choices and almost more critically, design decisions that actually make a house flimsy or well built. Comes down to lowest common denominator building and designing and short term profit margins for subdivisions and tract home builders. Every material has it's strengths and wood is certainly no exception.
Enjoy the professional content you and your crew put together. My only concern, the shakiness of the video. Suggest using a tripod and/or a gimbal to stabilize the video content. High quality, detailed content deserves the same attention to detail in the video production. God bless.
Really?
yeppers...especially since he has a bonified "film crew". Shaky Cam should remain in horror films and bad tv. Stop unecessary motion, lock it down!
Matt, longevity of Atlas shingles, compared to competitors, and types???
It looks like Atlas is trying to Re-Brand themselves and step up their game. I like the larger shingle size. As far as the SBS Polymers, The Malarkey Legacy Impact Resistant shingles are IMHO the best on the market for years for preventing hail damage. The Malarkey has had the Patent on the SBS Polymer technology, I don't know what happened,
But The Atlas Pinnacle shingle though, is famous for what looked like light to medium hail damage when it aged, because the granule would pop off when moisture would get behind. The granule in what looked like it had a coating mixed together, But Insurance adjusters see it afar off.... And they will tell you it is Not hail damage... But that being said, actual hail damage will look a little different.
My cheap place in San Diego was built in the 50's, The roof is 3/8" ply with 2 layers of shingles with rafters 24 on center".
For some crazy reason, we have never had a problem with now second layer 20-year asphalt shingle roof.
Well I'm not a roofer but the first problem I see is they used OSB instead of plywood.
Hi Wally,
In 2003, 1/2" plywood went from 5-Ply to 3-Ply.... What that means is, on the 3-Ply, if one of the plies is stronger on one face side than the other face side, it will curl. If it starts curling, you can use many long screws, but will pull away from the screws.
OSB does not warp like plywood.... It stays nice and flat. Yes the plywood is more rigid, but you don't have the decking lines in the roof from warping, visibly seen after you shingle the roof.
@@jameschupp2230 well maybe it should be 5/8" then. I just don't think OSB on the roof is a good or smart idea.
@@wally6193 Correct! In my mind ever since the 80's when I built my first house.
@@wally6193 other problem with OSB is fire, all the glue in the OSB is very flammable. Plywood will burn fast too but not as fast as OSB according to what I read on the internet from people claiming to be FireFighters.
They said Building collapse happens faster w OSB instead of plywood.
-Go grab a torch and carefully test it in your own backyard.
I know this is basically HERETICAL , but if you do use OSB , AND I know the roof is supposed to BREATHE , you might consider putting the vapor barrier side UP INSTEAD OF DOWN , SO DAMMAGES WOULD HAPPEN MOSTLY ON THE PERIPHERY .... I HAVE SHEATED AND FELTED MORE ROOFS THAN I CAN COUNT SINCE THE MID TO LATE 80'S , RIGHT AROUND THE TIME THEY SWITCHED OVER TO OSB FROM PLYWOOD , AND FOR THE LIFE OF ME I DO NOT KNOW WHY !!!!!! NAIL THE YWOOD DOWN THE SAME DAY YOU PUT IT ON .....GOOD !!!!!
You can have OSB : I GOT NO USE FOR IT ....... although I do like the lines they put at 16 and 24 " marks , if you throw some more money at em ........
He said 8 shingles less per square? That can't be correct. It would be 1 shingle total per square. Traditional square of shingles covers 98.4 sf. This covers 100 sf. Each shingle by Atlas covers 1.75 sf at 42" wide with 6" reveal. That is 1.75 sf of coverage. Sorry 8 shingles is wayyyyyy off.
LOL, 5-10%? my roof bid went from 25k to 46k with fortified, and that was only after searching through 10-15 companies and only finding one that would even give me the time of day to research it. Its not even remotely a 'small cost' it was fucking 90% price increase.
Mistake #1 roofing with asphalt shingles. It should be outlawed. Use metal. Steel, aluminium but don't waste your time and money with asphalt.
Mistake #2 sheathing your roof with chip board, OSB or aspenite. Use plywood and nothing but. OSB and aspenite roof deck are another sub par product that can barely stand up to two asphalt roofs. Cheap cheap stuff. Even the "tape" demo video uses Plywood not OSB.
Absolutely worthless links.
No checklist, nothing but a rolling advert To “locate a professional” - phooey!.
22 years ago in Reno/Tahoe area we were putting down 5/8 OSB 3” ring shanks 6” on the seams, 8” in the field to attach the roof decking- we never had them fail, blow off in 75mph winds or buckle under snow load.
I’m in south Florida and want to get a better roof. Luckily I have a hip roof. It’s strange but they don’t do anything special here. They did change to 2 30lb tar paper layers. I plan on adding in a waterproof membrane over the 2 layers of tar paper. I believe it’s 6” tins or plastic holding down here everywhere including the field. I will absolutely check FORTIFIED’s website. Starter shingles here with tar holding it down here.
OSB is garbage, that roof deck should be 5/8 plywood; especially for upscale houses. Makes me wonder what they used on the inside; 1/4 drywall? Builders use crap these days.
When I did the roof on my 60+ year old house with a 40+ year old addition in SW Michigan last summer I stripped off four layers of shingles stacked on top of each other on the oldest part of the roof.
Did it ever leak ? Thanks.
I sure hope your home is a lot older than 60 years if it had 4 roofs, unless one was rolled roofing.
People should never, ever do more than 2 layers and really it should always be stripped it possible
Wow. That's a lot of weight.
I've got slate under old t-lock shingles on my 1902 house. No leaks yet...*KNOCKS ON WOOD*
@@PartTimeYooper yeah the bottom layer was rolled roofing. The house was built in 1954. I'm guessing the addition was built sometime in the '70s or '80s. I purchased it in December 2019. No leaks that I saw but there were some soft spots when I walked on it so I knew there was some rotted decking to be dealt with. It was actually the OSB decking on the addition that was rotted. The original 1954 roof was decked with hardwood planks that showed no signs of rot. Buried under all those shingles I guess the wood was pretty well protected.
Did anyone notice that at 23:33 the shingle already tore apart?
Why wouldn't you use screws to hold the roof deck down??
I have thought a lot about that myself , and all I can come up with is the screws may be IMPOSSIBLE TO GET OUT AT A LATER DATE , AND YOU MIGHT NEED TO CUT THE RAFTERS out also in places . If I do use screws for anything , I usually put a piece of masking tape over it , to help the situation out in the future at least somewhat ... for example , if screws ARE painted over several times , you either need to dig the head of the screw out with a utility knife or whatever , or tear the whole assembly down !!!! One of my old bosses had a most wonderful screw-up that was on a shaft , about 32" or 3' long , that we used to screw down subflooring from a standing position !!!!!! DONT KNOW WHO MADE IT BUT IT WAS LITERALLY PRICELESS : I BELIEVE HE PAID ABOUT $550 for it .....
KEEP THINKING BUDDY !!!!!!
Matt this channel has turned into an advertiser's haven and lost it's way!
That's always in the back of my mind. I listen to these guys and see a used car lot behind them.
It has been a building a while and to keep up with the demand he's been doing product walk throughs. He's good at making it obvious for a pro, for a layperson not so much.
You have to do your own research. He’s putting stuff in your radar. And the man deserves to be paid for his work on his channel.
You are exactly right. The trucks must pull up to his house to deliver free materials every other day. The Project Farm channel has gained nearly 3 million subscribers by steadfastly refusing to accept donations of goods for testing. As a direct result when Todd Osgood reports test results his credibility is sky high. Matt might be sponsored by companies with good products, and he has useful information, but his sales pitches are pretty thick. I would love to know how much schwag he gets, and what it’s worth.
Every builder has to evaluate products and brands. Matt offers a helpful resource. Maybe these are products you wouldn’t ordinarily find. I’m so glad I found Rokwool, maybe not originally from Matt. Otherwise I’d be stuck with blown in or pink cotton candy.
Great info.. Two layers of 30# is better than synthetics? Does that require roofing cement to keep from bellowing?
I’ve never met a crew that wasn’t mine that doesn’t blow nails through shingles. Especially in the summer.
If you’re a roofer, get a pressure regulator and a gun that has an easy depth adjustment. Doesn’t matter what brand of shingle you use if you don’t monitor nail placement and depth
The majority here still hand nail
Very well stated
A radiant barrier on the plywood deck is waterproof, if treated like tar paper. Don't forget the 1" air gap spacing in between the roofing material and the radiant barrier! Yes, who wants water on the living room floor, isnt that ridiculous! Also, can you please make the asphalt shingle resistant to heat like a fire brick?
At about two minutes they’re showing some b roll of wind blowing a roof off a structure and if you look closely, it appears that deck was Fortified. At least all the seams were taped and that’s not common for regular decking but it’s very common for four deified roofs. Kind of ironic if you ask me
Contractors never peel of the plastic film on the back of the shingles so they bond better, and always flap in the wind, fixed my roof 4 times is 11 years. Idiot - lazy ass proof roofing solution is needed. Hurricane straps and other methods to keep the roof from being blown off ....
I won't have ANY osb in my house. I have torn things apart that are built with OSB and the nails just pull through. and the offgassing is horrendous.
Roofing companies just shingle over uneven decking…why they don’t address the issue before they start the reroof
Guy claims to be fortified home builder.. Proceeds to build roof out of 7/16 OSB.. Yikes :/
I have over 45 years of field experience, stop with the core 4 crap okay? What is the polymer used, what percent is added to the asphalt? What is the mat made of ( fiberglass?) What is the cost. Taping over sheathing joints is a waste of time and money, synthetic base is usually better than asphalt felt which are terrible mostly due to non strand fiber matting materials.
The roofing nails are also an important often overlooked component. Todays “eg” electro-galvanized (China) are failing after 5 years. I only use “hot dipped” made in USA or stainless. No issues.
As much as I hate electro galvanized crap it shouldn't be a problem if the nails are placed properly, they shouldn't get wet. Hot dip galvanized are way better but damn they are way more expensive.
What happened to following OSHA safety requirements for roof installation? Most of the people on the roof you show putting on the roof aren't properly tied off. I would NEVER hire a firm that doesn't follow OSHA requirements, someone gets hurt and it could cost a fortune. I was always impressed on your own house build everyone was properly tied off.
Homeowner can't do squat. By the time the crew is up their doing stupid crap hone owner has already signed the contract and NO one on that crew can (or will) speak to you (in English, that is).
Whatdya gonna do, say, "get down, now!" ?
@@willbass2869 i agree, but builder and homeowner have to hire good firms and has to verify that the firm they use will follow OSHA requirements, typically costs a little more but could save a great deal of money if there is an accident. I am surprised that Matt links to firms who don't follow OSHA requirements!
@@OtterBeSwimming i much agree on your last point about Matt. But I figure he has a video production & upload schedule and only gets one shot. He aint in Hollywood with multiple 'retakes', that's for sure
Modern underlayment is for quick protection before the shingles go on and does nothing after the roof is installed. When the shingles tear off there are thousands of holes for water to go through. The marketing is deplorable.
Roof Deck: Random Width rough sawn 1x boards, hand nailed in place
Underlayment: Nothing, unless you need felt because it's going to rain during the install
Roof material: Locally quarried slate
Fasteners and flashing: Copper or stainless
Lifetime: 100 years easy
Wind resistance: Good enough
HMMMM! I have seen some good hail storm tear up slate roofs. It is not a perfect weather protector.
@@jameschupp2230 Sure, possible, but not very likely. Then again hail is bigger in Texas....
Slates great, but at 5k a square or more it’s not for everyone.
Felt or synthetics? My 30-pound felt was in perfect shape. Why go synthetic?
The look on Matt's face when he knows someone's "selling" something is hillarious.
Atlas Chalet Shingles: Discontinued & Defective - Roofpedia
Question; is it good idea to install water and ice sheeting entire roofs decking?
Check out the University of Minnesota and Florida State University on this subject. The idea is going to be code in Florida some day, and MN is eyeing it.
@@charlesrichardson8635 can you provide a link to this study? I googled it and can't find anything. I actually live in Tallahassee.
It must be strange trying to hype up the least effective roofing material. Putting on a shingle roof every 10 years to "save money" is comical.
Good info. What about 2 layers of seathing connected by 1x4 to accommodate ventilation? How does this hold in a strong wind scenario?
I'm no engineer but either your bottom layer would have to be thick enough to serve as a structural member or the top layer would have to be fastened to the roof trusses. You could get an engineer to speck it out for your wind code and they would show nailing details for either scenario. I really like the idea of two sheathing layers for venting. It seems like it would solve a lot of the small issues with sealed atticks
@@keithray9194 ; thanks Keith. Spending a little for double seathing will assist in ventilation and also water leaks. Should pay off in long run
@@squeekhobby4571 that's exactly how I feel as well. I even read an article about a guy that did techshield on the top layer to limit the thermal pass thru. I would love to do it to my house
@@keithray9194 : even Matt Risinger did the same.
your fundamental problem is your using , small sheets /shingle s, use a tin/metal roofing , long continuous sheet from ridge to gutter . Never have to do a roof more than once ,,,
When I bought my current house (25-year-old doublewide) here in Tucson, it had been empty for 7 years. The roof over one of the bedrooms and over the master bath were completely destroyed. Both the ceilings and floors had to be completely replaced, over the bedroom I had to replace all the way down to the deck. There were also several other places that needed to be repaired. I took the time to examine all the shingles to make sure that all of the edges were bonded to the bottom layer. For those that weren't, I added tar to create that bond. I probably should have replaced the entire roof, including the deck (the original deck material is clearly too thin), but patching cost me probably $600 vs $6000. For me, I'd rather keep on top of examining and repairing the roof I have rather than spend the extra $5400. This is, after all, just a manufactured home.
just boxline or flexseal sheeted roof. you're welcome. (kek, do not do this. maybe do, but don't take my word for it)
I still want to use 6 nails per shingle.... maybe that's just me...
That second salesman didnt even know anything about roofing and barely anything about his own product. Surprised Matt let that get on the channel.
He got paid to let them on the channel. Honestly, it’s becoming too common lately.
Aren't Scotchguard chemicals really bad and on the verge of being banned?
this is awesome, i know i´ve commented before, but i feel that you guys are giving just ME a masterclass, greetings from Santiago - Chile
I'm a fan of covering the entire roof deck (preferably ZIP 5/8" sheathing with ZIP liquid flashing and/or ZIP tape) with Grace Ultra 100% butyl adhesive underlayment. It chemically bonds with the deck much better than fasteners, and it provides protection from temperature and water & ice when lapped over itself. But more importantly it seals around the roof fasteners that you will eventually riddle it with when installing your final roof material.
Where can I learn more about this?
But what did the first guy mean by your roof decking has to breath? I did a ice and water shield over the e tire roof and it’s been water proof for several months now. Now I’m wondering what could fail since it’s so air tight.
Depending where you're located at that could be considered a Bonafide vapor barrier not allowing the moisture from the attic space to rise through the roof
3:50 1/16th less than what were laying on, you need to rip that shit the fuck off and call some guys in that know what they are doing.
And that's why you have home owners insurance
Home owners insurance doesnt cover the head aches and time when you have mold after a storm. Up until last year or so, Texas coastal counties could only get windstorm insurance by TWIA, which is a separate wind policy from your hazard policy, with its own deductible. TWIA isn't very popular with us down here and they love hiking the rates any chance they get. Ask any one in Rockport, Corpus Christi or on Padre Island. Water intrusion plus power outage plus a week of hot humidity = no bueno. I'm a home and mold inspector in Corpus Christi and did inspections after Hurricane Harvey so people could fight their insurance adjusters who spent MAYBE 10 mins looking at the house.
Scotchguard is PFAS forever chemical. Not Good!