Have a Rockshox Yari? Try this!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 ก.ย. 2024
- Zero to Hero. Bargain basement Champ Rockshox Yari gets the Fox 38 Bath treatment
I used this damper
amzn.to/48YzXAY
Performance is better, but not much better with the stock air spring. Upgrading the air spring the damper did really come to life
Tools you need to tune suspension here
Digital shock pump ebay.us/kUhN4d
Dgital measuring tool ebay.us/uieWBV
Pick set ebay.us/jKZfeW
Recently took a older yari (upgraded) appart, surprise I've ordered a charger 2.1 and C1 debonair for a junky rock shox 35 RL because that fit. A mrp ramp control will also fit... Thats SRAM cost cutting manufacturing in action.
You bet the new stuff will all be cross compatible...
I was going to do this hack on the 35, but I read the damper doesn’t thread in.
Put only half of the topout bumper. In a B1 air shaft you can run whithout it. If you put more top out bumpers you only decrease the negative air chambre, not increase it, because the space for negative air in the initial part of the stroke is less when those bumpers are mounted in. That is the only way it worked for me👍
Ps. If you have airshaft for the maximum travel of your fork you should not remove the whole bumper. If for example you have a Yari witch was constructed for 180mm maximum travel, and you have 170mm airshaft or less you are safe to remove the bumper.👍🚵♂️🚵♂️
2 bumpers c1 air spring makes it plush bucket. Makes travel 10mm less
Very cool video idea. I also don't have a lot of money to spend on my bike but I'd like to have better suspension performance.
Me too
It’s always risky to do hacks. Longer air spring is super cheap, and it takes the slop out of cheap suspension forks, again modifying anything from stock is inherently risky, extra stress on head-tube.
you should mess with a Domain fork.....
That’s on the radar, I heard it’s the worse fork ever made.
You completely ignored the equalization dimple position in the stanchion.That modded airspring likely never equalizes, the stock C1 air spring in this video equalizes very near the top out. Older B1 airpring is the better option for the yari, you can even remove the topout bumper for extra negative volume as the B1 air spring has pneumatic topout. You get better small bump performance and more mid stroke support, but reaching full travel becomes a little harder.
They didn't move the dimple around, that's why the neg chamber is smaller actually, they didn't want to retool.
I took it apart yesterday it’s all good the bottom out bumpers compress into the dimple, but the negative chamber it a bit to large how it was
@@OtterMTBtech the bumpers don't affect the size of the chamber, only the spot where it tops out.
It changes the entire characteristics of the fork and makes it plush
in b1 spring you just put one and half bumper to getvas big as posible negative chamber, piston is just near eq port
Do you cut one in half?
@@OtterMTBtech Yup, after that, the air spring piston seal should be at the same height as it is in the C1 version. I think it's also possible to fit the Luftkappe with a hollow shaft from the B1/C1 spring. You need to cut out the piston head, thread the shaft, and fit a hollow nut to mount the Luftkappe which allows air to pass between the shaft and the Luftkappe. That's only my theory I never tried this modification. I weight 190lbs and I am riding with B1 spring with cutted bumper with 65psi pressure and 3 tokens.
@@marcinbalcer1772 which lower seal head the smaller older one or new one that is bigger
@@marcinbalcer1772 did that mod lower your travel?
@@fpsgenerator No, the modification also eliminates the "travel suck effect" of the fork which occurs in b1 spring
How's the equalization port situation?
You can stretch the fork to equalize air chambers because top out bumpers can squeeze much
Correct 😎. The negative chamber is a touch to large as is.
What do you think about the revalation fork . Have it with 3 tokens . 70psi. I'm 180lbs
How to setup Rockshox Fork/ Charger 3 Zeb
th-cam.com/video/xz9puKIt2f0/w-d-xo.html. Take tokens out and start over
Rockshox Yari Supreme VS Fox 36 Rhythm // Which one do you prefer?
36 all day
@@OtterMTBtech Thanks!!!
@@leevan FOX ALL DAY every day, $200-$300 for a Rythem 36
I am looking for a couple quick answers on your Kenevo builds. How can I reach out to you?
Email on home page of channel on bottom 😎
Dang River’s Cuomo has a lot a mountain bike suspension knowledge 🥶
Looked him up 😭
@@OtterMTBtech sorry bro I had to say it😂
great video by the way 👍👍
So much dodgy information in this video, but i applaud you for having a go
Self proclaimed sketch fest
Adquiri faz uma semana o yari 27,5 180mm motion Control, montei na Gt Sanction pro que adquiri faz duas semanas
Comprei a suspensão segundo dono, incrivelmente pouco usada, as vedações estao intactas, fiz somente uma manutenção 100% preditiva
Manual recomendou 55psi para o meu peso 75kg, porem fiz um ajuste no meio da trilha para 45psi e ficou legal, instalei um token essa semana e irei testar agora sabado, compressao totalmente aberta.
Tive a opcao de investir mais 150 dolares e comprar a Lyrik charger, porem optei por economizar e acredito que nao irei me arrepender. Ambas nao tem a tecnologia debonair ainda.
Meu atual arsenal abaixo;
GT Sanction Pro com Yari 180mm
Scott Gambler usa black boxxer charger 27,5.
Scott High octane boxxer team 2007 com topcap pneumático da world cup, essa suspensão comprei nova ano passado e tem no maximo 2 horas de uso.
Scott nitrous 10 com marzocchi 66 rcv 2009
Scott Nitrous 20 com Rock Shox Totem coil com motion Control DH com assistente de subida
Khs dj-200 com X fusion Velvet 100mm
A Yari substituiu uma Fox RC2 180mm Kashima.
Um abraço de um mtbiker do brasil 🇧🇷. 8:55
Nice bikes.
Can I do this to my Lyrik Ultimate 2020??
Get a luftkappe not these hack setup
How does a 38mm air spring fit inside a 35mm stantion?
I think that the spring size is constant. I think
The old Boxxer has 35mm stanchion, like the yari
I fully appreciate the hacker and tweaker mentality, but you've broken the airspring by not allowing it to equalize with what you've done. Your negative air chamber pressure is now controlled by wherever the air piston was sitting when you happened to put the seal head into the bottom of the stanchion. If you want more midstroke support and adjustable progression control, get the DSD runt and use it with the b version air spring.
Beyond that, reducing friction should be your primary concern. SKF seals, burnish bushings if you can get the tools, a good oil for the lowers, and mix together a couple cc's of oil and dynamic silgrease and put it in the positive side of the spring.
Cool looked up dsd. I took fork apart, and put it to stock, it’s all fine inside. I think the bottom out bumpers squeeze into the negative
You’re giving me very bad ideas with this video