There is a weep hole at the inside bottom of the soladeck. I wouldnt seal the bottom section to utilize this function. Great video, best soladeck installs out there
Nec 250.92 is the relevant code I believe, but because this is NOT a GEC, but rather an EGC, and the knockouts are not concentric or eccentric, I agree with you that a grounding bushing is not required.
You spent all this time and energy sealing up your wire input connectors to keep every ounce of water out of the box, then drill two weep holes in it which lets water back in. Theoretically of course, because water doesn't flow uphill. So why all the energy to seal the sockets with caulk?
That's a great question. It translates from the universal technique we use from installing any strain relief - including those on NEMA 4, and 4X. So it reduces operator error.
Nice install. Missed the crimp for continuous bond between the 6 AWG bare copper and the stranded copper EGCs. Ground lugs won't count as irreversible, just like split lugs. Otherwise, super clean install.
I believe you don't need the EGC on the DC side to be irreversibly crimped, just the GEC on the AC side. But there is an exception for bus bars to count as a continuous bond also.
I don't think there's a code requirement for the EGC to be continuous like there is for GEC. That's why you can have equipment bonding jumpers throughout the EGC end to end. Also, since the 2017 code removed most of the language for a required solar GEC unless "solidly grounded", technically I'm not sure those continuous connections by middle stripping the green ground wire are needed by code anymore, even though it's still a best practice.
great video but!!! no eye protection,no gloves with flying metel and sharp edges. and a desription saying employee training video. dont let osha see this video.
couple of issues I have firstly you need to use no-ox on all your connections, secondly your ground wire should always flow downwards meaning the ground wire should come in from the top of box then to ground lug, and your hole into the roof should be below that. this way ground will always (drain) down. Also never make a tighter circle than a full six inch curve. these are lightening 101 topics. you always always always need no-ox on all connectors because of the different metals the wire, screws and connectors are made of. Aside from that great video
Myron Perish :: No-Ox is NOT needed on any of these connections. Both DC PV wire and THHN wire are copper, NOT aluminum where No-Ox WOULD be needed. IF and only IF metals on screws were dissimilar to equipment then scrape paint and apply nickel metal hydride to area of connection but likelihood of corrossion is also mitigated as these are typically installed under array with water tight seals plus weep holes strategically drilled out on bottom in the video demonstration and the screws used are the ones that came with the soladeck. Ground is fine here as the path of least resistance is a wire of greater size and comes out bottom of soladeck(best practice) then travels with THHN to either service through inverter in this scenario or to another soladeck if strings are on different roofs that call for that in the design. I have no clue what you're referring to when mentioning a 6in curve but based on your other issues that are NOT issues; I'd bet that is wrong too. Hope this helps clear up any confusion.
The instructions show 3 fasten points INSIDE the box. So I don’t think there’s any issue with this install. They actually don’t even mention screws outside the box. Great video
I've watched this a bunch of times for my project. Thank you. This is full of great tips and directions!
Is this type of box only used when DC enters the box? What would this look like if using microinverters?
There is a weep hole at the inside bottom of the soladeck. I wouldnt seal the bottom section to utilize this function. Great video, best soladeck installs out there
Great video. Thank you!
What about a metal roof?
Great informational video on the soladeck installation. Thank you!
Thank you, Blake, and hope you are well!
Great video. What size hole saw did you use for that 1 inch EMT?
I used a 1-1/2" hole saw. Gives plenty of room for the 1" EMT connector and positioning.
3/4"
gracias! thats an amazing video
Is there a reason why you can. Or can not used pvc pipe..in pvc you can run a ground wire if you need to ground..
Why the bonding bushing? The Soladeck has a ground lug and a lock nut would bond the EMT to the case if you remove the paint.
You must use a grounding lock ring or grounding bushing on one side of an metallic conduit
@@justinhiner3782 What code section is this required please?
Nec 250.92 is the relevant code I believe, but because this is NOT a GEC, but rather an EGC, and the knockouts are not concentric or eccentric, I agree with you that a grounding bushing is not required.
What kind of terminals are you guys using in soladeck? Also, do you prefer to combine rather than separate strings? Great video!
Thank you! Din Rail terminals - supplied by SolaDeck (they offer UL Listed AC and DC kits)
You spent all this time and energy sealing up your wire input connectors to keep every ounce of water out of the box, then drill two weep holes in it which lets water back in. Theoretically of course, because water doesn't flow uphill. So why all the energy to seal the sockets with caulk?
Weep holes are for condensation build up. If you have rain/snow water getting in weep holes are not the solution.
That's a great question. It translates from the universal technique we use from installing any strain relief - including those on NEMA 4, and 4X. So it reduces operator error.
Should be fine without the bond bushing since the connector is not in a Concentric KO
Code requires both wire be grounded and equipment be grounded and bonded.
Nice install.
Missed the crimp for continuous bond between the 6 AWG bare copper and the stranded copper EGCs. Ground lugs won't count as irreversible, just like split lugs.
Otherwise, super clean install.
I believe you don't need the EGC on the DC side to be irreversibly crimped, just the GEC on the AC side. But there is an exception for bus bars to count as a continuous bond also.
I don't think there's a code requirement for the EGC to be continuous like there is for GEC. That's why you can have equipment bonding jumpers throughout the EGC end to end. Also, since the 2017 code removed most of the language for a required solar GEC unless "solidly grounded", technically I'm not sure those continuous connections by middle stripping the green ground wire are needed by code anymore, even though it's still a best practice.
should need it in this case - terminal is sufficient.
when stripping wire do it like sharpening a pencil
I'm pretty sure you void the sola deck warranty for drilling your own hole in the back of the soladeck
Ya lose voice audio at 8:10 the entire scene of you prying the shingles and prepping the roof opening has bad voice audio.
Please, no music.
I'll subscribe when the music goes away.
great video but!!! no eye protection,no gloves with flying metel and sharp edges. and a desription saying employee training video. dont let osha see this video.
couple of issues I have firstly you need to use no-ox on all your connections, secondly your ground wire should always flow downwards meaning the ground wire should come in from the top of box then to ground lug, and your hole into the roof should be below that. this way ground will always (drain) down. Also never make a tighter circle than a full six inch curve. these are lightening 101 topics. you always always always need no-ox on all connectors because of the different metals the wire, screws and connectors are made of. Aside from that great video
Myron Perish :: No-Ox is NOT needed on any of these connections. Both DC PV wire and THHN wire are copper, NOT aluminum where No-Ox WOULD be needed. IF and only IF metals on screws were dissimilar to equipment then scrape paint and apply nickel metal hydride to area of connection but likelihood of corrossion is also mitigated as these are typically installed under array with water tight seals plus weep holes strategically drilled out on bottom in the video demonstration and the screws used are the ones that came with the soladeck.
Ground is fine here as the path of least resistance is a wire of greater size and comes out bottom of soladeck(best practice) then travels with THHN to either service through inverter in this scenario or to another soladeck if strings are on different roofs that call for that in the design. I have no clue what you're referring to when mentioning a 6in curve but based on your other issues that are NOT issues; I'd bet that is wrong too. Hope this helps clear up any confusion.
The instructions show 3 fasten points INSIDE the box. So I don’t think there’s any issue with this install. They actually don’t even mention screws outside the box. Great video
Lots of od steps, there are way better and faster ways
Long ass video.