I'm painting outdoors (not enough light in garage ) - Ambient temperature can be a problem with the paint drying too quickly, however (aside from the danger of air-born particles/bugs), I've found if there is a steady breeze it speeds drying more than a temperature rise. I find it odd that many household paints are sold with the 'benefit' of quick-drying, where it always seems (to me) to be something to avoid.
That sounds like a challenge. I'm doing the etch primer (smelly!) and undercoat outside, and then the rest done under cover. Dust is still an issue under cover, although I earth the panels to reduce static.
Great to see the results - I also prefer brushing (or rollering) paint instead of spraying. I tried spraying once and the result wasn't good. I've been using a technique which I stumbled upon. I decided to apply thinned undercoat (thinner with white spirit) using the logic that if it was thinner there would be very few brush marks. That worked, and then I thought "why not do the top coat similarly?" One answer could be 'because the topcoat will not be shiny' and this was indeed the case. Using 3 coats of thinner topcoat I achieved good colour depth without having to rub down too much (just the odd run) and then using the Craftmaster clear varnish the shine came back. The result was very pleasing (especially to the person who bought the car), and I am now painting my Quantum kit car using the same method (although hot weather has stopped progress). The other thing I found is that some boiled linseed oil mixed with topcoat (probably varnish as well) will give more 'open time'
Thanks for that excellent advice. I've been adding white spirit to the high build undercoat, and a little to the green top coat. As you say, the smoother finish requires less rubbing down. The challenge is to avoid runs and sags. I hope all goes well with your kit car.
One thing I've noticed whilst rubbing down my paintwork - although some brush marks are visible after rubbing down it's my conclusion (others may not agree) that if it can't be felt with the fingertips it's ok to ignore it. Using a kitchen scourer is a good tip (thanks!) as if used lightly over the complete panel it gives a good, uniform surface to continue applying the varnish. The scourer is particularly useful on internal angles and any curved surfaces where it's troublesome to use abrasive paper.
Fantastic videos and workmanship, i will be following your progress closely,also re watching them many times, you have encouraged me to attempt the painting of my vintage car,many thanks and keep up the great work.
From where I sit that paintjob is wonderful. The color is sublime and you prep efforts were worthwhile as the results show quite well. The paint looks quite deep and beautiful to look at.
Thank you. Yes, it's worth putting in the hours on prep. The paint gives a deep shine, regardless of my skill or lack of, but this also makes any defects more visible. I'm glad you like my colour choice :)
As ever your patience and dedication to perfection blows me away, great to see your progress. On boats they tend to put the paint on with rollers to get a even thickness and the tip off with a brush. I guess this does translate to a car due to the complex shapes. Keep well
Would it be more effective to have a dedicated tipping brush? I have watched someone who used a very thin short-bristle brush, for tipping only. After each stroke he cleaned the bristles with a rag to remove excess material. It made sense to me.
Sorry I missed your comment until now. Yes, that's an option I've noticed and I might give this a try. I think it's normally done with a wide brush, as it is important to work quickly before the paint starts to drag. Thanks for this suggestion.
I don't know how you do it... The results you are getting with a brush are amazing. Watching you use this method has tempted me to maybe give it a try... but so far, I've fought off the urge. Cheers from Iowa
Great video but wow your patience in trying again and again to achieve perfection with the troublesome clear coat is incredible. The paint finish on the bonnet before the clear coat stunning.
That's a good point, although one has to support it by its edges, to avoid damaging the new-ish paint underneath. Fortunately, the outer edge is partly hidden when the bonnet is closed. Thanks for your input.
Lovely car. And the same colour as the one my father owned when I was a child. I can see why you would want to restore it, but why hand paint it when you could get a much better finish spraying it?
Potentially, I can get better results than a spray finish. The shine is deeper, and with practice, the overall finish should be better. It will also be much more hard wearing in the long term. Parts of the AC had been coach painted about 60 years ago, and it was tough to remove those areas. I'm glad you like the car :)
![ILLSLICK - WINTER IS COMING [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/dwTMeM1zIhQ/mqdefault.jpg)
I'm painting outdoors (not enough light in garage ) - Ambient temperature can be a problem with the paint drying too quickly, however (aside from the danger of air-born particles/bugs), I've found if there is a steady breeze it speeds drying more than a temperature rise. I find it odd that many household paints are sold with the 'benefit' of quick-drying, where it always seems (to me) to be something to avoid.
That sounds like a challenge. I'm doing the etch primer (smelly!) and undercoat outside, and then the rest done under cover. Dust is still an issue under cover, although I earth the panels to reduce static.
Great to see the results - I also prefer brushing (or rollering) paint instead of spraying. I tried spraying once and the result wasn't good. I've been using a technique which I stumbled upon. I decided to apply thinned undercoat (thinner with white spirit) using the logic that if it was thinner there would be very few brush marks. That worked, and then I thought "why not do the top coat similarly?" One answer could be 'because the topcoat will not be shiny' and this was indeed the case. Using 3 coats of thinner topcoat I achieved good colour depth without having to rub down too much (just the odd run) and then using the Craftmaster clear varnish the shine came back. The result was very pleasing (especially to the person who bought the car), and I am now painting my Quantum kit car using the same method (although hot weather has stopped progress). The other thing I found is that some boiled linseed oil mixed with topcoat (probably varnish as well) will give more 'open time'
Thanks for that excellent advice. I've been adding white spirit to the high build undercoat, and a little to the green top coat. As you say, the smoother finish requires less rubbing down. The challenge is to avoid runs and sags. I hope all goes well with your kit car.
One thing I've noticed whilst rubbing down my paintwork - although some brush marks are visible after rubbing down it's my conclusion (others may not agree) that if it can't be felt with the fingertips it's ok to ignore it. Using a kitchen scourer is a good tip (thanks!) as if used lightly over the complete panel it gives a good, uniform surface to continue applying the varnish. The scourer is particularly useful on internal angles and any curved surfaces where it's troublesome to use abrasive paper.
Thanks for that feedback. I'll be doing more painting soon, so I'll try out your technique.
Fantastic videos and workmanship, i will be following your progress closely,also re watching them many times, you have encouraged me to attempt the painting of my vintage car,many thanks and keep up the great work.
I'm delighted that I have inspired you! I hope your repaint goes well.
Many thanks Ian, I'm sure that your videos are going to be a godsend, I might have the odd question in the process, keep up the greatvwork.
Wonderful work, such a joy to watch.
Thank you :)
From where I sit that paintjob is wonderful. The color is sublime and you prep efforts were worthwhile as the results show quite well. The paint looks quite deep and beautiful to look at.
Thank you. Yes, it's worth putting in the hours on prep. The paint gives a deep shine, regardless of my skill or lack of, but this also makes any defects more visible. I'm glad you like my colour choice :)
Beautiful car
Thank you :)
As ever your patience and dedication to perfection blows me away, great to see your progress. On boats they tend to put the paint on with rollers to get a even thickness and the tip off with a brush. I guess this does translate to a car due to the complex shapes. Keep well
I've seen demo videos of that technique. No doubt it saves time on a large area. I've just slapped some green paint on the lefthand door today:)
Would it be more effective to have a dedicated tipping brush? I have watched someone who used a very thin short-bristle brush, for tipping only. After each stroke he cleaned the bristles with a rag to remove excess material. It made sense to me.
Sorry I missed your comment until now. Yes, that's an option I've noticed and I might give this a try. I think it's normally done with a wide brush, as it is important to work quickly before the paint starts to drag. Thanks for this suggestion.
Thanks for the update Ian. Some very promising results.
Best wishes, Dean.
Thanks Dean :)
Still following your progress and it's all looking really good. The paintwork looks fantastic. Love the colour too.
Many thanks. Not ideal painting weather just now!
I don't know how you do it... The results you are getting with a brush are amazing. Watching you use this method has tempted me to maybe give it a try... but so far, I've fought off the urge. Cheers from Iowa
Many thanks. It looks better on camera than it really is, but I'm happy that my efforts are improving.
Great video but wow your patience in trying again and again to achieve perfection with the troublesome clear coat is incredible. The paint finish on the bonnet before the clear coat stunning.
Thanks Ian. You can see why any repaints cost a lot of money if you get a professional to do it.
Very interesting and awesome results
Many thanks :)
Why not raise the piece off the bench to free up brush movement at the edges?
That's a good point, although one has to support it by its edges, to avoid damaging the new-ish paint underneath. Fortunately, the outer edge is partly hidden when the bonnet is closed. Thanks for your input.
@@ac2litre It is good to see a fellow perfectionist. I admire your attention to detail
Lovely car. And the same colour as the one my father owned when I was a child. I can see why you would want to restore it, but why hand paint it when you could get a much better finish spraying it?
Potentially, I can get better results than a spray finish. The shine is deeper, and with practice, the overall finish should be better. It will also be much more hard wearing in the long term. Parts of the AC had been coach painted about 60 years ago, and it was tough to remove those areas. I'm glad you like the car :)
@@ac2litre Thank you. And good luck with the restoration.