HOW TO: Learn to Zap on FLAT GROUND! - Trials
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ก.ย. 2024
- Here it goes, my first how-to video done on the trials bike! I think I've avoided making these on the trials bike is because these bikes really show off any imperfections and technique issues unlike the dirt bike. They demand good technique and I prefer to just slam through stuff haphazardly lol
I also wanted to make a shorter video than my first zap video, which was my first how-to video, in order to add a couple of tips and show a different approach to learning, and hopefully produce an overall better quality video than the first one I made around 2 years ago. The first one is still worth the watch, here's the link:
• HOW TO: Double Blip (A...
This is one of the best videos on how to perform the zap - THANK YOU!
Great video, I’m just getting into trials, so the explanation of visualising jumping up the object without the bike really helps, thanks 👍
Dude that was so helpful. Yes more trials vids please. Official request submitted!
Your videos do a fantastic job of covering the points that always confused me, particularly what to do with the clutch and throttle during and after body movement. Kudos!
Wow very helpful, I tried this and it worked! Thanks, you should do more how to vids.
Awesome man I love hearing about anyone making those breakthroughs, congrats!
Perfekt😀👍 danke für das Video💥💨
I'm planning a TH-cam review of the top trials training channels and was going to include yours. Screen recording for a short duration and giving all credit to your channel to plug your work. I appreciate what you've giving back to the sport and learned so much from consuming your videos. Let me know if you're alright being included in this please. Cheers mate
Absolutely, feel free. Thanks :) I'll check it out
IMO you did the best job of breaking down the ZAP than the other half dozen vids I have watched! No other vid broke down the throttle clutch timing and the effects as you covered. Much appreciated
Thanks!! I tried to make the video that I wished I could find when I was learning but as you said, none of the others talked much about throttle/clutch which is so important.
You do a great job at explaining in details. Now I need to work on this. Many thanks!
Hey man, found your videos very helpful..and when I say very.. its very mutch.. saw other videos, long videos.. tons of video.. your it's the best as the irc guy .. when you learn this skill on trial, how is try to transfer on enduro?
Great demonstration yes more trails would be much appreciated 👏👏👍🍻
Thank you very much for an awesome video. I had no idea about the timing of this whole thing, and you really did a great job explaining and demonstrating this. I really appreciate it and hope you’ll do more! Cheers
Really nice to see it in good clear slow motion, cheers.
Love the video DJ! Found you researching a Beta 200RR, glad I looked through your other content. Are you still producing riding content, you're great at it.
Besides some riding from Utah in the works I'm not actively producing anymore. My new main interest is hang gliding.
Well explained!
Good stuff love the trials lessons as a complete beginner,
Always like the way you explain techniques.
Great video! Please keep doing the trials videos on your trials bike. I ride dirt bike too, but I have just purchased my first trials bike and enjoy seeing the instructional videos on a proper trials bike. Thanks
Very clear explanation!
Great teaching skills.
After one and half year of trial your video showed me why I had trouble with zap : I used to pop the clutch too early ! Thanks for this video
Are you squeezing the bike with your legs and pulling up with your heels? Also, are you pulling up with you're arms?
No I'm not really doing either one
That is a seriously great vid. Very well explained. Awesome.
I’m trying this out on my wr250f , I keep stalling as the rear gets on the log. Any advise?
Feather in more throttle slightly as the rear hits, tiny blips will help.
thank you for this video. I'm new in enduro, I think I need this technique for use.
If you're on enduro bikes i think the double blip is more versatile and easier to deploy than the zap. I have a video on the double blip too
@@DirtJunkie Thanks, I'll look for this video. What is name of the video?
Awesome thanks
Great video
Baller. Didn't know about letting the throttle out. Stoked to practice this tomorrow.
How'd it go?
@@DirtJunkie Grass was wet and rear tire was spinning, but I'm going to keep working on it! I think I need a lot of work on this kind of clutch timing plus balance. Long ways to go! At least I've figured out how to get the front wheel up pretty reliably though, that part feels good.
While I'm not quite ready for this, still learning the double blip and trying to hop the rear wheel. This certainly gave me more information on what to practice for the timing. Great instruction!!
the best instructive vieo ever
Very well described have watched lots of videos but the way you explained the throttle and clutch is priceless,
Thankyou 😉👍
Hi! I Especially appreciate the tips of your pre exercise to learn the timing and the detailed of managing the timing of Throttle and Clutch . it is the best video regarding zaps i have ever seen. thank you for that and keep recording Videos. If you have some good advice for front wheel and backwheel Hop learning, I would appreciate a video from you
Very good explanation. I haven't heard this in any other video (and I've watched a lot of them). This really helps to understand and practice the timing. Thank you!
Do you make any adjustments to this technique when doing it with an Enduro bike?
No adjustments however I dont think it can be done on flat ground with an enduro bike.
Earned a sub with this one. Great job describing it
Great vid thanks . The on screen “pop” really helps to see the timing .
So basically you use the momentum of the engine while the RPMs are going down?
Not necessarily while they're going down, thats more like a side effect because the rpms will go down if no more throttle is applied after clutch drop. Get rpms up to whatever is needed for the pop
@@DirtJunkie I gotta admit... got my Beta Rev (275cc... same bike you use in the video?) after ages on 200kg streetbikes or 4strokes supermotos and I find it hard to defy the discomfort of trying to jump on something. For now I can turn on full lock, go downstairs, pop some random wheelies but without hitting balance point as I'm not able to cover the rear brake while on a wheelie or while sitting down... LOL, don't ask me why. I'm into "urban trial", I'd really like to be able to jump on small obstacles... you know, a park bench or something like that. But I still don't have the skills and, probably even worse, the confidence to do it. I know the trial is waaaay safer than my GSX K3 1000, but without an armor jacket I'm definitely getting cold feet lol.
@@armandov2424 once you fall a couple times you'll get used to falling!
@@DirtJunkie unfortunately I don't have a grass/mud paved practice lot, so if I fall I fall on a step/on tarmac LOL.
Detailed timing explanations. Awesome.
Well explained! It's the best explanation that I think I can put to use that I've seen.
Nice work! Where in NC are you? You're more than welcome (and have a blast with some awesome people:) to come ride with our CVOTC trials club members in assorted places around the state.
Cool! Maybe I'll take you up on that. I'm in Kings MTN NC.
Thanks for sharing! As a new-to-trials rider, this is amazing!
I struggle with the timing of this and - in particular - am still a little confused with the timing of the jumping on (or off) the pegs and how that timing aligns with the clutch pop.
Do you pop the clutch as soon as you load up the suspension (i.e. on the "downward motion" of the jump), or do you pop the clutch as you have the maximum amount of suspension compression, or do you pop the clutch as you rebound (i.e. "upward motion" of the jump) and you feel your boots coming off (un-weighting) the pegs?
I would say the pop happens when suspension is at max compression, so option 2. I dont really feel my boots come off the pegs too much although it happens a bit sometimes looking at footage. If that happens excessively it probably means the jump/pop is off timed and not in rhythm with the suspension. The thing is from the time the front wheel touches down to the clutch pop tends to feel like a blur, as the suspension compresses so quickly on the trials bike that by the time I react with the pop to me it feels almost like I'm releasing the moment the front wheel touches. Twisting the throttle extra at moment of impact can help timing because you can use the revs building as the queue to pop, but a responsive and fairly fast revving bike is ideal so the pop doesnt come too late - for instance attempting this on my xr200 was impossible and on that bike I had to pre-rev the piss out of the bike before even the wheelie. This is one reason the flat ground "bunny hop" is a good learner as it removes the whole front wheel placement issue from the equation and itll feel "right" when you nail the timing. You can definitely pop too soon too, especially on the dirt bike where the suspension compresses a bit slower, I have to really remember to slow down sometimes. Also, popping either too soon or too late on an obstacle can often sort of result in the same thing happening making it hard to spot the error. If you're really having trouble I would try filming yourself and playing back in slow motion, this is a really effective learning tool if you dont have someone with you to spot. Also feel free to upload the video if youd like and send it to me if you dont mind critique from someone whose never done a trial :D
DirtJunkie thank you for the detailed feedback. I’ll definitely try the camera path and play around with the clutch pop. I may take you up on the offer to provide feedback on a video in the future.
DirtJunkie So, I spent 45 mins practicing yesterday. I had a lot of fun practicing, but according to my footage, I still struggle to get the rear wheel off the ground. At best, I end unloading the rear suspension and the rear wheel maaayyybe gets 0.1” off the ground... 😃 some attempts end up as a wheelie, which I assume is the wrong timing. A few times, I got the bike to lift straight up (no wheelie) and the rear wheel would spin slightly as it was unloaded. Is that the right ‘feeling’? From here, do I just need to do that with more aggressive clutch pop and/or throttle roll-off..?
@@moto6193 yeah a slight wheelie is probably timing, or excessive revs or body positioning. If no or tiny lift occurs, that might mean you didnt actually pop the clutch all the way and the small lift could have just been suspension. If you lifted straight up with the rear wheel spinning a bit as it let go it sounds like you might have got it. You'll notice the wheel goes from receiving no power at all, to that sudden grab and "letting go" as you pop the clutch. From here you could try bigger clutch drops, but since you are on flat ground you can end up in a wheelie and think something went wrong if you pop with the revs too high - the fix for this is pulling the clutch in before landing back down but that's something to avoid on obstacles as pulling the clutch in before impact will kill your "follow-through". Hope this makes some sense and didnt get overly complex. If you find yourself getting that pop, you could try applying it to a small obstacle, and if front wheel placement is tricky you can practice that on flat ground as well - set a target, small wheelie, drop front wheel on target, do the pop like you normally would.
@@moto6193 hey, hows the practice going?
Dirt Jenkie strikes again. Well done sir! Much improved over the old appliance days in the back yard.
I've been thinking I need to bring some appliances back. But maybe a refrigerator or something more stout.
Perfect video!
Your best yet.
Hi again buddy, spent all day Saturday practicing with some degree of progress and success all thanks to you.
I tried both initial wheelies with and without the clutch, but struggled more without any help from the clutch, probably more down to my poor technique though.
If understand things correctly, should I practice more along the lines of.....
Half slipping the clutch on approach with a small amount of throttle, a slight nip of the clutch to aid the initial wheelie followed by increase in RPM and the pop of the clutch to complete the maneuver? Once I understand the process, I will then have to perfect my technique and timing I guess.
Thanks in advance....
Using clutch is fine, but if you're having trouble with the wheelie without clutch it probably means your weighting or body position isnt quite right, especially if you're on a trials bike. I'd recommend stopping the bike, engine off, brakes applied, try bouncing the forks up and down to hop the front wheel. Balance is tough but if you can get a couple hops you'll start to know the rhythm of your suspension. Focus mainly on popping thr knees and hips back, the upper body doesnt have to do much for wheelies. Anyway, that being said, back on the approach to the obstacle.. I'd say do whatever works for you, slipping or not, what's important is getting the timing on the main pop. The less you have to think about the better, so if the front wheel placement and wheelies are really tough, start practicing those first.
@@DirtJunkie Again, thank you for your in depth reply, very much appreciate you taking the time to advise me.
As you say, I think my body positioning is way off, something I will need to perfect first.
Once I have improved this I will put into practice all that you have covered, can't thank you enough sir.....
Ultimate
Good lesson
Excellent video man, thank you for making these. What would be super cool is to have exactly what you've done here with excellent instruction on the trials bike but then bring in the enduro and perform the same move (300 or 200). Really enjoy your vids, keep up the good work.
That's a really good idea!
Was wondering too if you could do this flat ground drill on a 300 enduro bike as well?
Top vid mate!... would like to see one on body position for cornering on rutted singles !
Rutted single track? I'm not well practiced on cornering hard but a problem with ruts is dragging the foot peg, so one leg out near straight and forward against the radiator shroud, outside buttcheek off the seat while sitting a bit forward of center, outside elbow up and out inside arm extended. One thing that improved my cornering in general but may not be needed for rutted corners, is feathering the front brake through the corner to keep the front tracking nice through the berm or rut while leaned over, this has improved my stability and confidence in corners more than anything but again I'm kinda slow.
Hey man, I wanted to say thanks for putting together these videos. Entertaining and helpful at the same time. We ride similar stuff here in BC canada and learning the ZAP is top of my list.
BC looks amazing. If you ride enduro bikes, might I recommend prioritizing double blip instead of zap. While zap is fun and looks really cool, a simple DB is easy to execute in a variety of situations youd encounter there, and is much easier to use effectively on an enduro bike. Thanks for watching :)
@@DirtJunkie ok good call we ride lots of logs and I can get away without using the DB technique but want to learn it. Will have to figure out the difference haha. Thanks man
@@j-moto1215 i have some stuff specific to double blip and the difference between the two. Its easy though - unlike the zap, front wheel precision isn't very important. In most cases you can afford to miss the punch entirely. Its more about dropping the clutch hard to ram the back wheel into the obstacle so the rebound bounces you to the top, or over a log resulting in landing level on the other side. Important not to pull in clutch after the hit so that the rebound doesn't get too out of hand and buck you off the bike, or fail to carry over the obstacle entirely
@@DirtJunkie yeah no kidding just watched your video. Going to work in that first!! Good call
Excellent video thank you! I have yet to see another video break down trials techniques into such fine detail.
Being an engineer and riding dirtbikes can be a blessing and a curse as everything gets overanalyzed.
DirtJunkie I feel ya! I have a similar mind.
@@DirtJunkie tell me about it!
Hi Dirt Junkie: I've watched so many of your videos, so thanks for making them. In this video your saying to "chop" the throttle for the lift but don't you mean chop the throttle after the lift ....... while the rear wheel is in the air jumping ? You did say that your using the engines stored energy for the power to jump up but wouldn't a rev while popping the clutch give you the actual lift ?
Hi there! The problem with chopping the throttle after lift is that the lift will never come - at least not much lift - that's because the tire tends to stick to the ground when the throttle is on. This is why I say build the revs up early, that way you can chop the throttle and release the clutch simultaneously to help get the lift. If you wait to rev when you pop the clutch, it's too late to get the timing right for the most lift.
@@DirtJunkie Hi thanks for explaining, so the lift is from a combination of the suspension compression AND the engines stored energy being released "while the throttle is off". I tell yah I have a hard time getting my head around this I will be trying it out very soon.
@@outbackenduro7418 yes, if you have a trials bike and can try this little "bunny hop" thing in the video, you'll feel it the moment you get the timing right. Also this technique is only really needed for undercut ledges and things that you need to try and clear with the rear wheel - many people confuse this with the double blip which involves keeping the throttle on to drive the rear wheel hard into the obstacle which is definitely the way to go most of the time and is easier to climb taller things with than trying to lift 150 or 250 lbs up along with you.
I struggle with the initial wheelie. I don't know how to get enough height while maintaining low speed.
The more you're able to use the suspension and body weight, the slower you can keep the bike in a wheelie. First get to know the rhythm of your suspension by trying to wheelie (or wheel hop) with a dead engine - even on a heavy enduro bike you can get a small hop with a dead engine if working with the suspension, you have to hold the rear brake hard while doing this and the balance is hard. Another thing is body position, pop back the knees and move your butt back. Your upper body doesnt change that much, a lot of people use too much upper body. Another common mistake for a wheelie is not changing body position at all and pulling the bars up to your chest, your arms will be almost straight if you're riding a wheelie at balance point. Practice on flat ground bringing the bike to balance point quickly and stabbing the rear brake to set back down, this will also help train rear brake discipline.
@@DirtJunkie amazing response man! That's fantastic, I've got a trial on Sunday so I'll be out practicing in the garden before then!
@@Calum643 bit late but how'd the trial go? I've never done one
Hi buddy, do you use the clutch on the initial wheelie?
Sometimes but not always, usually I like to start with low revs slipping the clutch to make sure engine is responsive, but it works either way.
@@DirtJunkie Thank you sir, really appreciate you coming back to me. Keep the videos coming.. 11/10
Thanks for being on a 'not new' trials bike. Lots of us who are new to trials are on 10-15 year old bikes as well.
Not only is it not new, it also runs like shit and has a near useless front brake. Its been collecting dust in the garage the past 2 years unfortunately. It's a 2008 Beta Rev 3. Those new bikes feel amazing though!
A very capable trials teacher told me that (assuming its been taken care of) any trials bike from the last 15 years is capable of winning the world championship in the right hands, so don't blame it on the bike! (not that I was, he was just making a point).
@@somedude1129 that may be true but those are pros, us average Joe's can use all the help we can get from the latest and greatest tech :D
@@DirtJunkie On the other hand, the cost of buying a 2020 bike over my 2012 wouldn't do much to improve my skills, but that $6,000 or so would go a long way towards improving my skill if spent on oil and fuel!
(and fixing/replacing things as I break them)