Well THERE you are, Don! I figured you must have been really busy the past couple months. Always a pleasure to see one of your videos show up on my list. 🔧👍
Those days when you wish you had more arms. I'm glad you did put this up on TH-cam, so many times I thought "how do those guys make this look so frigging easy ?" Some things are just tediously frustrating and you have to struggle with them. Thanks for the video Random,,,, I sure missed you.
I received one of these as a small debt repayment. I gotta do what you did here. It has been tuned up runs fine cuts great 👍. I am gonna do the oil.line myself LOL . We shall see how that works out. Thanks for the video.😊
Its not terribly bad. I think the saw in the video was actually my own. I've since done a couple more, and neither one of them gave me any grief at all. Of course, it had to be my own stuff...lol
Nice to see a video thanks for the kind email reply. MS 170 and 180s are good saws but a butt to work on LOL smallest thing can slow the repair job down.
Glad to see and hear you sweet talking those machines. My saw leaks but from its proper hole. Like it’s pushing it from the tank. Have you ever seen that?
Looks like you and rubber parts have an ongoing feud! 😂 Stihl actually sells an installation lube for that and I mistakenly bought it early on before I started using silicone grease to ease rubber parts into place. As long as you wipe your hands and surrounding areas off after installation it works really well. Mostly I use a Q-tip to apply and only put on just a really light coating and that usually does the trick. I keep that Q-tip in a piece of tubing so it’s just another tool on my bench.
Don, I have a very old wooden-handled stubby flat-bladed screwdriver I inherited from an old friend decades ago. It’s so worn the working end is worn smooth and rounded over. I use that to do any pushing of tight rubber grommets, etc. so I don’t puncture them. No reason anyone couldn’t make one from any extra screwdriver. I make dedicated tools like this all the time and use paint markers to color them to differentiate from standard tools in the drawer.
I always do that. Quickest most direct way to confirm. Actually, now that I think of it, there’s no reason you can’t pull the spark plug so there’s no compression and just pull the recoil several times to check if the oil pump is working and oiling from the correct port.
One manufacturer, Stihl I think it is, has a procedure using a light rope to pull and intake boot through its tight hole. I imagine the same procedure might work in this case with a bit of fiddling.
Well THERE you are, Don! I figured you must have been really busy the past couple months. Always a pleasure to see one of your videos show up on my list. 🔧👍
Great video, nice to see you back 👍 😀
Glad to see you are back with a new video after your 2 month sabbatical.
Those days when you wish you had more arms. I'm glad you did put this up on TH-cam, so many times I thought "how do those guys make this look so frigging easy ?" Some things are just tediously frustrating and you have to struggle with them. Thanks for the video Random,,,, I sure missed you.
Thanks Len. I don't do many cuts on the camera, so when I struggle, you guys will see it.
good to see a new video been a little while
I received one of these as a small debt repayment. I gotta do what you did here. It has been tuned up runs fine cuts great 👍. I am gonna do the oil.line myself LOL . We shall see how that works out. Thanks for the video.😊
Its not terribly bad. I think the saw in the video was actually my own. I've since done a couple more, and neither one of them gave me any grief at all. Of course, it had to be my own stuff...lol
The discoloration you see on the bar isn't because of lack of oil, it's because it's been heat treated to harden the surfaces the chain rubs on.
Nice to see a video thanks for the kind email reply.
MS 170 and 180s are good saws but a butt to work on LOL smallest thing can slow the repair job down.
Glad to see and hear you sweet talking those machines. My saw leaks but from its proper hole. Like it’s pushing it from the tank. Have you ever seen that?
Looks like you and rubber parts have an ongoing feud! 😂
Stihl actually sells an installation lube for that and I mistakenly bought it early on before I started using silicone grease to ease rubber parts into place. As long as you wipe your hands and surrounding areas off after installation it works really well. Mostly I use a Q-tip to apply and only put on just a really light coating and that usually does the trick. I keep that Q-tip in a piece of tubing so it’s just another tool on my bench.
Don, I have a very old wooden-handled stubby flat-bladed screwdriver I inherited from an old friend decades ago. It’s so worn the working end is worn smooth and rounded over. I use that to do any pushing of tight rubber grommets, etc. so I don’t puncture them. No reason anyone couldn’t make one from any extra screwdriver.
I make dedicated tools like this all the time and use paint markers to color them to differentiate from standard tools in the drawer.
Could it be pressure tested and soaped for bubbles before reassembled
Struggles are always the real way things work more times than not!
Should the engine have been started before the bar installed to verify visually the oil being pumped?
I always do that. Quickest most direct way to confirm. Actually, now that I think of it, there’s no reason you can’t pull the spark plug so there’s no compression and just pull the recoil several times to check if the oil pump is working and oiling from the correct port.
Would it be possible to enter tank and pull on the tube to give it some help with that entry grommet?
One manufacturer, Stihl I think it is, has a procedure using a light rope to pull and intake boot through its tight hole. I imagine the same procedure might work in this case with a bit of fiddling.