Thank you so much for showing how to do this on your own! I'm a single mom and was worried I'd have to pay for extra hands to install my cabinets, I know I got this now!
Funniest installation videos on the interweb. But, also SO instructional and clear. Thank you for taking the time to make this - it was a great help. IKEA should give you some royalties. And keep up the good work!
Lol. Thank you so much for the kind words. I’m really glad you enjoyed it and were able to get some info from it as well. I won’t hold my breath on royalties from ikea but comments like these definitely motivate me to keep making videos. Thanks so much for watching 👍
Just about to embark on an Ikea cabinet install so decided to hunt around YT to see what "gotchas" exist. Your video was terrific holds up great a couple of years later. Totally LOVE the reverse method measuring the drill outs. Great work, thanks for sharing. Heading over to find part 3 right now.
Thanks so much. Glad I could help. I’ve done a more recent series on ikea kitchen islands and adjusting the doors, if either of those are applicable to your kitchen. Good luck with your project 👍
@@MDCHOMES You did indeed help, thanks so much. When I went hunting for part three I found the newer one's as well. Boogles my mind how a channel this informative is so hard to find. Although I see you have 2.7k subs and over a 191k views, I guess lots of people enjoyed this one as well. Keep it up...
Best video ever for showing how to install IKEA cabinets! (I'm doing it now - new kitchen). The IKEA instruction videos are crap compared to this! Jason Whitehead - Great handyman - Great video producer! 👍🤗
Yes, the production quality is quite good. I usually don't like "quick cuts" but Jason does that just right to make is point (or deliver the punch line).
This is just awesome, as well as the corner cabinet video. Best advice ever to not follow the step by step IKEA instructions for the cabinet... saved tons of time, confusion, and damaged panels. Anywho... my question is this: When hanging the rail, and ones floor is a bit off level (1/8" up to the right), does one take the 32 3/16 measurement from the left or the right (low or high end)? The new floor is installed and nothing I can do about that at this point... the house is about 100 years on now. Additionally, the right end of the rail will be meeting the left end of another rail on the wall to the right. Another consideration it that the stove will be at the end of the countertop to the left
Start with high point for your level. Doesn’t sound like your floor is too bad if it’s just 1/8 off, but if you start at the low point you might have to trim the toe kick height to make it fit. Good luck with your kitchen 👍
Hi and thanks. Now that I have the line, it appears to be a 3/4" off level (the floor, not the line)... will this be a huge problem with the toe kick (also from IKEA)? Thanks again@@MDCHOMES
If you start with high point they’ll definitely fit but might have a little gap showing between cabinets and toe kick at the low end. Shouldn’t be too much though.
Love this video, Jason. Stumbled upon it. 9:42, just baller, the way you moved and hung those base cabinets with that trolley. Where can I get a trolley like that
@@MDCHOMES But if you physically drew the line on the cabinet you're cutting you could just measure from that instead of trying to remember to add the 6 inches; you can just measure from a line drawn on the cabinet. Good idea, @tony P!
Really liked your video. I have a quick question. Looks like everything you got, even the bottom units are all wall mounted. Any reason your picked everything to be wall mounted instead of getting the floor standing units? The rwason I ask is that I feel the floor standing units (with toe kicks) would be better at holding the weight of the upcoming counter tops and sink etc etc? Or am I wrong about that? Thanks in advance!
Thanks so much and good question. The ones we used mount to the wall and have legs and toe kicks. The legs and toe kicks get installed in part 3 of this series if you want to check that one out. Thanks for watching 👍
@@MDCHOMES We put in some new IKEA cabinets on a blank wall in our kitchen when we first moved in (2018) to increase storage and counter space. Now we will be removing the original cabinets from this 1956 house and replacing with new IKEA. So I have some IKEA experience but you have a few tips that will definitely help and I thank you. Also, the pace of your videos is perfect: You fly past the routine stuff but thoroughly explain the issues we had problems with the first time. The laser level, the door on sawhorses, how to hang the rails, the furniture dolly, all that and more will be of great help to me. And your sense of humor is just right. I've watched other IKEA videos they have some good information but they're just so....dry in their presentation. You're a good communicator.
If lvp will run completely under cabinet you’ll just measure off of it. If it’s not run completely under your toe kicks should have enough wiggle room to go over the lvp but if lvp is really thick you can compensate for it just to be certain
Great video Jason! You mentioned (at the 11:00 minute mark) about forcing the cabinet in and if that didn't work you had some tricks to get it in there. Would you mind sharing what those tricks are?
Our wall to the right was slightly out of plumb towards the bottom which didn’t allow the room we needed in this situation. If cabinet didn’t go in by force my next step would have been to notch the drywall behind the bottom of the corner cabinet so that it would sit plumb. Ours was only around 1/16 off so slightly nothing the drywall would have given us plenty of room. Great question! Thanks for watching also.
Interesting. I never felt the need to glue them since I was installing them after cabinet was already hanging. That might be a good trick though if you’re wanting to install them before and keep them from falling off while moving cabinet. 👍
Question: What type / length of screw do you use to secure the rails into studs? I have an exterior wall with 2x6 studs, and an interior shear wall with 2x4 studs (5/8ths plywood). Great video!
Thanks so much. I believe these were 3” grk framing screws. I honestly believe any good construction screws will work fine. These are just what we have on hand in large quantities from other jobs. 👍
Great video. I had a question about the rail. My wall is uneven. Do I want to screw it flush to the wall and only shim the gaps, or do I want to screw it flush to the part that sticks out the most and then shim out all the low spots to pull the rail away from the wall to keep it absolutely straight?
You’ll want the rail to be as straight as possible. It’s fairly rigid though so you’ll probably only need to shim at your attachment points in my opinion. But adding shims anywhere there is a gap definitely won’t hurt. If wall is too crazy uneven or wavy you may want to consider repairing it first. You just don’t want cabinets to not meet in front bc they are sitting on the peak of a curve in the back. Good luck with your kitchen.
Unfortunately I don’t have the names of those colors saved anywhere. This was a house we sold so I don’t have the original paint cans anymore either. They were behr colors from Home Depot. Sorry that’s not much help. Good luck with your project!
@@MDCHOMES Great vid. Question - how much gap do you get between the back face of the floor cabinet and the wall? Reason I ask is because my electrician ran cables on the exterior face of the wall and didn't use a trench so I need about 10mm clearance and was hoping the guide rail was 10mm in thickness.
Hmmm. I honestly don’t remember. I usually hold the wings closed up to my drill bits and see which one will be large enough for it to pass through. I know that’s not very technical but hope it helps.
is it just me? for the first 13 minutes, the audio lagged behind the video. anyone else? super helpful video. love to see how you did this on your own. thanks so much!
Sorry you had a lagging issue. Haven’t experienced it any with that video. Thanks so much for watching it anyway. Lol. Glad it was still helpful to you and appreciate the support. 👍
@@johnnypinkleton9410 if you have some prior construction or renovation experience you should be fine. IKEA’s rail system makes installation super easy so if you get it installed correctly you’ll be off to a good start. Good luck with your kitchen. 👍
@@MDCHOMES thank you. So Im done aligning the rail for my Ikea floor cabinets. How high should should I place the rail for the ceiling cabinets? My ceiling is 84inches or 7 ft. So I would like to place as close as possible to ceiling. Im very sorry but I cannot find this information in ikea website.
A suggestion: When you talk about measuring down 6 inches from the top of the cabinet (starting at 15:58), I suggest in addition to drawing a line on the wall 6 inches down from the top of the adjacent cabinet, you also draw a a similar line 6 inches down from the top of the cabinet you're cutting the holes into. That way you're using the measurements you made and not having to remember to add 6 inches. (Make sense?) EDIT: I see tony P had the same idea.
First of all, great videos, Jason. Probably, the best on the subject. A couple of questions. As far as I see, you don’t use legs for the aft support. I guess that you totally rely on the rail, right? Do you think that it might be possible to slide bases under the existing granite counter. Thanks in advance
Thanks so much for the kind words. Really appreciate it. To your questions…I don’t install back legs due the the rail holding all cabinets level in the back. I only use them if the cabinets are freestanding like with an island. If you don’t use the rail system you would probably be able to slide cabinets under an existing granite counter using all four legs instead. With the rail you have to lift the cabinets up slightly to get them on the rail. Hope this answers your question. Thanks so much for watching.
Currently installing an IKEA kitchen and your videos on the kitchen are so helpful that I pretty much know it'll turn out great. Question for you though; are the filler panels an absolute must? I used up every spare inch of space in our kitchen for cabinets and used filler pieces sparingly. WIll that be an issue? I am currently assmbling the boxes and should be hanging the cabinets up in a day or so.
Not sure if you are talking about the filler panels that go between cabinets or cover panels that go on the end of a run. Our kitchen didn’t have any filler panels either as we too used every inch to get cabinets in. We did use cover panels on the ends though. If you are using all the space no fillers are needed just butt cabinets right next to each other. If the end cabinets aren’t next to a wall you will need cover panels to hide the white frame of the cabinet. Hope that helps and good luck with your install.
You’re going to want cabinets attached to the wall somehow on any cabinet system you use, but I’m assuming you’re meaning why use the track here instead of just 4 legs and bolting each one to the wall. I’d say the simplicity of the leveling process is the main reason to do it. Getting the track level is way easier and quicker than getting each cabinet level. It just makes processes faster. Not sure if that was exactly what you were asking. But any cabinets you get, regardless of the manufacturer, need to be bolted to wall for safety and stability. Hope that helps👍
Not sure what you’re referring to. The white did go on the inside of all the cabinets. Maybe give it one more watch…or 6. I could always use the views. Lol. 👍
You missed the point of the rectangular leveling washers on the rails. Your method will allow the rail to slip under weight since you didn’t first push the washer against the upper lip of the rail.
Good tip. With the toggle bolts and screws in studs I’ve never had one budge, but any additional preventative steps are worth doing. Thanks for noting it and for watching. 👍
So those cheap particle board ikea cabinets are just held in place by two points on the top of the cabinets? That seems like a really bad idea. Most cabinets are attached to the wall in multiple places and then attached to each other making it one giant cabinet held together in numerous places by multiple screws. if one of those attachment points fail on an ikea cabinet, you are going to have a bunch of your dishes on the floor and possibly injuries and damaged appliances underneath.
I was skeptical at first myself. As a contractor I’ve installed many different kitchen cabinets from the big box builder grade all the way to custom made. All I can say is this system works and works well. I’ve had IKEA cabinets in my own home for over 10 years without the slightest problem. These do attach to each other side to side which i explain in part 3 of this series. If installed correctly I don’t see ikea cabinets failing any quicker than any other system under the same load. And just for the record we are in no way compensated by ikea. Lol.
Also, it's not "just...two points at the top of the cabinets". The feet in the front carry a substantial portion of the load too. I'm getting ready to do more cabinets but I did one row of cabinets in my house 5 years ago and they're solid.
Jason! At 1:52, you show your manual showing how high to put the rails. I could not find this page on the SEKTION ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS: www.ikea.com/us/en/assembly_instructions/sektion-wall-cabinet-frame-white__AA-2243445-2-2.pdf
Thank you so much for showing how to do this on your own! I'm a single mom and was worried I'd have to pay for extra hands to install my cabinets, I know I got this now!
That’s awesome. I’m so glad I could help. Good luck with your project 👍
Funniest installation videos on the interweb. But, also SO instructional and clear. Thank you for taking the time to make this - it was a great help. IKEA should give you some royalties. And keep up the good work!
Lol. Thank you so much for the kind words. I’m really glad you enjoyed it and were able to get some info from it as well. I won’t hold my breath on royalties from ikea but comments like these definitely motivate me to keep making videos. Thanks so much for watching 👍
I also install cabinets alone. Perfectly understand how creative and resourceful you have to be.
It can definitely be a challenge sometimes.
Hands down best Ikea instructional video for kitchen cabinet installation
Thanks so much. I really appreciate it.
Yep, been through a ton of them. This is the best one.
Thank you. Glad I could help 👍
I loved everything about your video, you’re a gem! dry humour, great instruction , simple explanation 🙌 well done!! Thanks for your guidance :):)
Aww. Thanks so much. I appreciate the kind words and glad I could help.
Best video I've ever seen regarding all this Ikea Kitchen install, thanks so much!
Thanks for the kind words. Glad you liked it.
Just about to embark on an Ikea cabinet install so decided to hunt around YT to see what "gotchas" exist. Your video was terrific holds up great a couple of years later. Totally LOVE the reverse method measuring the drill outs. Great work, thanks for sharing. Heading over to find part 3 right now.
Thanks so much. Glad I could help. I’ve done a more recent series on ikea kitchen islands and adjusting the doors, if either of those are applicable to your kitchen. Good luck with your project 👍
@@MDCHOMES You did indeed help, thanks so much. When I went hunting for part three I found the newer one's as well. Boogles my mind how a channel this informative is so hard to find. Although I see you have 2.7k subs and over a 191k views, I guess lots of people enjoyed this one as well. Keep it up...
Subscribe and hit that 🔔. We’d love to have you. lol. 👍
@@MDCHOMESI have already subscribed but I never hit the bell on any channel a quirk of mine haha.
Your video has the best instruction on framing the cabinets. I was struggling with it. Thank you.
You bet. Glad I could help.
Best video ever for showing how to install IKEA cabinets! (I'm doing it now - new kitchen). The IKEA instruction videos are crap compared to this! Jason Whitehead - Great handyman - Great video producer! 👍🤗
Wow. Thank you so much! Glad I could help and good luck on your ikea project 👍
Yes, the production quality is quite good. I usually don't like "quick cuts" but Jason does that just right to make is point (or deliver the punch line).
Love the humor....just what I needed as I'll be installing these without a helper. Thanks!
Thank you. Good luck with your install!
Thanks Jason! I'm gonna apply your method today.
Glad I could help. Good luck on your project 👍
This is just awesome, as well as the corner cabinet video. Best advice ever to not follow the step by step IKEA instructions for the cabinet... saved tons of time, confusion, and damaged panels. Anywho... my question is this:
When hanging the rail, and ones floor is a bit off level (1/8" up to the right), does one take the 32 3/16 measurement from the left or the right (low or high end)? The new floor is installed and nothing I can do about that at this point... the house is about 100 years on now.
Additionally, the right end of the rail will be meeting the left end of another rail on the wall to the right.
Another consideration it that the stove will be at the end of the countertop to the left
Start with high point for your level. Doesn’t sound like your floor is too bad if it’s just 1/8 off, but if you start at the low point you might have to trim the toe kick height to make it fit. Good luck with your kitchen 👍
Hi and thanks.
Now that I have the line, it appears to be a 3/4" off level (the floor, not the line)... will this be a huge problem with the toe kick (also from IKEA)?
Thanks again@@MDCHOMES
If you start with high point they’ll definitely fit but might have a little gap showing between cabinets and toe kick at the low end. Shouldn’t be too much though.
@@MDCHOMES great, and thank you again. This is what i thought but was a bit unsure :)
Love this video, Jason. Stumbled upon it. 9:42, just baller, the way you moved and hung those base cabinets with that trolley. Where can I get a trolley like that
Thanks so much. I believe I got this particular one from Harbor Freight.
@@MDCHOMES cool, there's a Harbor Freight a mile and a half away from me.
Talented video editing!
Thank you. Still figuring it out but trying our best. 👍
I love that you use a dolly to move the cabinets. "Work smarter not harder "
After years of installing these kitchens you definitely start to look for ways to make it easier on yourself. Thanks so much for watching 👍
Great video. Why did you not draw a line 6" down from the back of the cabinet and go from there?
You can do that for sure. Whatever number makes the math easiest for you to convert. 👍
@@MDCHOMES But if you physically drew the line on the cabinet you're cutting you could just measure from that instead of trying to remember to add the 6 inches; you can just measure from a line drawn on the cabinet. Good idea, @tony P!
The video’s bonus tip- the 3 manliest tools !
That list is pretty official. Lol.
Cabinets. Cabinets! *banging hands on desk* CABINETS! CABINETS!
And also some cabinets...if time allows.
Great video, just what I was looking for. Thanks.
Thank you for watching 👍
Great editing btw. Love the vids
Thanks so much. I appreciate you watching!
Really liked your video. I have a quick question. Looks like everything you got, even the bottom units are all wall mounted. Any reason your picked everything to be wall mounted instead of getting the floor standing units? The rwason I ask is that I feel the floor standing units (with toe kicks) would be better at holding the weight of the upcoming counter tops and sink etc etc? Or am I wrong about that? Thanks in advance!
Thanks so much and good question. The ones we used mount to the wall and have legs and toe kicks. The legs and toe kicks get installed in part 3 of this series if you want to check that one out. Thanks for watching 👍
@@MDCHOMES wow perfect thank you so much!
YES! 6/8" drove me nuts too!
Right?
@@MDCHOMES We put in some new IKEA cabinets on a blank wall in our kitchen when we first moved in (2018) to increase storage and counter space. Now we will be removing the original cabinets from this 1956 house and replacing with new IKEA. So I have some IKEA experience but you have a few tips that will definitely help and I thank you. Also, the pace of your videos is perfect: You fly past the routine stuff but thoroughly explain the issues we had problems with the first time. The laser level, the door on sawhorses, how to hang the rails, the furniture dolly, all that and more will be of great help to me. And your sense of humor is just right. I've watched other IKEA videos they have some good information but they're just so....dry in their presentation. You're a good communicator.
Thanks so much for the compliment. I’m glad I was able to help. Good luck on your kitchen project 👍
@@MDCHOMES Just got back from IKEA. We'll get the cabinets this week.
Sweet. Good luck with your project 👍
Do I need to compensate for the thickness of my LVP flooring in addition to the 32 3/16”?
If lvp will run completely under cabinet you’ll just measure off of it. If it’s not run completely under your toe kicks should have enough wiggle room to go over the lvp but if lvp is really thick you can compensate for it just to be certain
Thank you sir. I just don’t want to run into problems with the dishwasher.
Great video Jason! You mentioned (at the 11:00 minute mark) about forcing the cabinet in and if that didn't work you had some tricks to get it in there. Would you mind sharing what those tricks are?
Our wall to the right was slightly out of plumb towards the bottom which didn’t allow the room we needed in this situation. If cabinet didn’t go in by force my next step would have been to notch the drywall behind the bottom of the corner cabinet so that it would sit plumb. Ours was only around 1/16 off so slightly nothing the drywall would have given us plenty of room. Great question! Thanks for watching also.
@@MDCHOMES thank you!
@@MDCHOMES smart!
LOL!!! 5:34!!!! This is a friggin great video. Thank you for this.
I appreciate it. Thanks so much for watching!
Another way to visually represent "mic drop" 🤣
Loved that you marked the circles to determine where studs were behind the rail. Great video.
Thanks so much. And thanks for watching!
Yes, that was brilliant.
I used two part Mitre fix to glue those awful ikea feet. Also, I glued the feet into the front dowel holes
Interesting. I never felt the need to glue them since I was installing them after cabinet was already hanging. That might be a good trick though if you’re wanting to install them before and keep them from falling off while moving cabinet. 👍
@@MDCHOMES I then adjusted the feet to fit once the cabinets were fully in place.
Really helpful - thank-you, from Bristol, UK
So glad it helped. Thanks for the comment and for watching in the UK!
That close up 🔥 😂
Question: What type / length of screw do you use to secure the rails into studs? I have an exterior wall with 2x6 studs, and an interior shear wall with 2x4 studs (5/8ths plywood). Great video!
Thanks so much. I believe these were 3” grk framing screws. I honestly believe any good construction screws will work fine. These are just what we have on hand in large quantities from other jobs. 👍
Great video. I had a question about the rail. My wall is uneven. Do I want to screw it flush to the wall and only shim the gaps, or do I want to screw it flush to the part that sticks out the most and then shim out all the low spots to pull the rail away from the wall to keep it absolutely straight?
You’ll want the rail to be as straight as possible. It’s fairly rigid though so you’ll probably only need to shim at your attachment points in my opinion. But adding shims anywhere there is a gap definitely won’t hurt. If wall is too crazy uneven or wavy you may want to consider repairing it first. You just don’t want cabinets to not meet in front bc they are sitting on the peak of a curve in the back. Good luck with your kitchen.
You’re a good man keep up the good job
Thanks so much and thank you for watching 👍
Can you please share the wall colors in this video? We are about to install our new Ikea kitchen and my wife really likes the wall colors….thank you!
Unfortunately I don’t have the names of those colors saved anywhere. This was a house we sold so I don’t have the original paint cans anymore either. They were behr colors from Home Depot. Sorry that’s not much help. Good luck with your project!
love the style on your vids man, keep it up.
Thanks so much. I appreciate the encouragement 👍
@@MDCHOMES Great vid. Question - how much gap do you get between the back face of the floor cabinet and the wall? Reason I ask is because my electrician ran cables on the exterior face of the wall and didn't use a trench so I need about 10mm clearance and was hoping the guide rail was 10mm in thickness.
Most helpful! Thank you very much!
Thank you and thanks for watching. 👍
Does it mean it is not possible to hang the cabinet flush to the ceiling?
That’s correct. You’d need to leave the recommended gap and they fill the gap with a filler piece if you want it to look flush to the ceiling. 👍
@@MDCHOMES thx
What size pilot hole do you drill for the toggle bolt?
Hmmm. I honestly don’t remember. I usually hold the wings closed up to my drill bits and see which one will be large enough for it to pass through. I know that’s not very technical but hope it helps.
For those toggle bolts it's 1/2 in
Thanks for a great instructional video!!
So glad it was helpful. Thanks for watching.
How high should I place my ceiling cabinet rails if my ceiling is 84 inches? Please help
is it just me? for the first 13 minutes, the audio lagged behind the video. anyone else? super helpful video. love to see how you did this on your own. thanks so much!
Sorry you had a lagging issue. Haven’t experienced it any with that video. Thanks so much for watching it anyway. Lol. Glad it was still helpful to you and appreciate the support. 👍
Great vid. Question - how much gap do you get between the back face of the floor cabinet and the wall?
Is the rail system the most diificukt part? Im wondering if i should hire someone or do it myself
The rail system is very diy friendly. Just double check your measurements and use a level when installing it and you shouldn’t have any problem.
@@MDCHOMES thanks so if installed correctly, should the rest of my ikea kitchen assembly be a breeze. I have the cabinets almost built.
@@johnnypinkleton9410 if you have some prior construction or renovation experience you should be fine. IKEA’s rail system makes installation super easy so if you get it installed correctly you’ll be off to a good start. Good luck with your kitchen. 👍
@@MDCHOMES 🙏 thank you
@@MDCHOMES thank you. So Im done aligning the rail for my Ikea floor cabinets. How high should should I place the rail for the ceiling cabinets? My ceiling is 84inches or 7 ft. So I would like to place as close as possible to ceiling. Im very sorry but I cannot find this information in ikea website.
Hi I have kitchen cabinet work I want to learn something from your experience can you tell me something please
IKEA base unit have no leg ?
They sure do. You need to watch part 3.
th-cam.com/video/L5e_cqhsrjU/w-d-xo.html
A suggestion: When you talk about measuring down 6 inches from the top of the cabinet (starting at 15:58), I suggest in addition to drawing a line on the wall 6 inches down from the top of the adjacent cabinet, you also draw a a similar line 6 inches down from the top of the cabinet you're cutting the holes into. That way you're using the measurements you made and not having to remember to add 6 inches. (Make sense?) EDIT: I see tony P had the same idea.
First of all, great videos, Jason. Probably, the best on the subject. A couple of questions. As far as I see, you don’t use legs for the aft support. I guess that you totally rely on the rail, right? Do you think that it might be possible to slide bases under the existing granite counter. Thanks in advance
Thanks so much for the kind words. Really appreciate it. To your questions…I don’t install back legs due the the rail holding all cabinets level in the back. I only use them if the cabinets are freestanding like with an island. If you don’t use the rail system you would probably be able to slide cabinets under an existing granite counter using all four legs instead. With the rail you have to lift the cabinets up slightly to get them on the rail. Hope this answers your question. Thanks so much for watching.
@@MDCHOMES again, thanks. Your videos are really the best on the subject, but, above all, you deliver in style
Currently installing an IKEA kitchen and your videos on the kitchen are so helpful that I pretty much know it'll turn out great. Question for you though; are the filler panels an absolute must? I used up every spare inch of space in our kitchen for cabinets and used filler pieces sparingly. WIll that be an issue? I am currently assmbling the boxes and should be hanging the cabinets up in a day or so.
Not sure if you are talking about the filler panels that go between cabinets or cover panels that go on the end of a run. Our kitchen didn’t have any filler panels either as we too used every inch to get cabinets in. We did use cover panels on the ends though. If you are using all the space no fillers are needed just butt cabinets right next to each other. If the end cabinets aren’t next to a wall you will need cover panels to hide the white frame of the cabinet. Hope that helps and good luck with your install.
Can you support the channel please?
Why lower cabinets are hanging on the wall? What's the point?
You’re going to want cabinets attached to the wall somehow on any cabinet system you use, but I’m assuming you’re meaning why use the track here instead of just 4 legs and bolting each one to the wall. I’d say the simplicity of the leveling process is the main reason to do it. Getting the track level is way easier and quicker than getting each cabinet level. It just makes processes faster. Not sure if that was exactly what you were asking. But any cabinets you get, regardless of the manufacturer, need to be bolted to wall for safety and stability. Hope that helps👍
Great video, thanks!
I appreciate it. Thanks for watching
Awesome video!
Thanks.
Perfect🎉
Thank you!
Enhet cabinets don’t fit those rails which is dumb tbh. I had to use toggle bolts. I’d rather go on the studs.
I enjoyed you video and learned a lot thank you
I appreciate it. Glad I could help. 👍
nice..
Thanks
Great Video ☺️
Thank you. And thanks for watching!
Good work. It helps a lot
Thanks for watching!
I'm from a metric country.. so I'm confused by the inches and also the fractions in this video
Sorry about that. I’m as lost with metric so I get the frustration. Lol. Hopefully this link might help. Thanks for watching.
www.inches-to-cm.com
Also, if you buy IKEA in your home country, wouldn't the directions read in metric measurements?
thx great video!
I appreciate it. Thanks for watching! 👍
Good work 💪👷
Ummmm, you put the back panel on backwards. The white goes to the inside of the cabinet!
Not sure what you’re referring to. The white did go on the inside of all the cabinets. Maybe give it one more watch…or 6. I could always use the views. Lol. 👍
You have dreamy/expressive/sad eyes!
Thanks. Got them for my birthday. 👍
@@MDCHOMES Thank your parents, then!
👍 - _also_ for the YT algo! 😊
Lol. Thanks for watching!
You missed the point of the rectangular leveling washers on the rails. Your method will allow the rail to slip under weight since you didn’t first push the washer against the upper lip of the rail.
Good tip. With the toggle bolts and screws in studs I’ve never had one budge, but any additional preventative steps are worth doing. Thanks for noting it and for watching. 👍
So those cheap particle board ikea cabinets are just held in place by two points on the top of the cabinets? That seems like a really bad idea. Most cabinets are attached to the wall in multiple places and then attached to each other making it one giant cabinet held together in numerous places by multiple screws. if one of those attachment points fail on an ikea cabinet, you are going to have a bunch of your dishes on the floor and possibly injuries and damaged appliances underneath.
I was skeptical at first myself. As a contractor I’ve installed many different kitchen cabinets from the big box builder grade all the way to custom made. All I can say is this system works and works well. I’ve had IKEA cabinets in my own home for over 10 years without the slightest problem. These do attach to each other side to side which i explain in part 3 of this series. If installed correctly I don’t see ikea cabinets failing any quicker than any other system under the same load. And just for the record we are in no way compensated by ikea. Lol.
Also, it's not "just...two points at the top of the cabinets". The feet in the front carry a substantial portion of the load too. I'm getting ready to do more cabinets but I did one row of cabinets in my house 5 years ago and they're solid.
How dangerous! No guard on your cutter!
Danger is my middle name…I just don’t spell or pronounce it that way.
2:37 there's a reason why IKEA is a mult-billion dollar company, they know why they did it, but who knows. lol
Swedes never reduce fractions.
They’re too busy making awesome stuff fit into small boxes.
I like you ♥
Please don't hang cabinets with drywall screws
No drywall screws here. Only construction screws and toggle bolt anchors were used.
Would 3inch construction screw be good?
Should be fine. We typically use GRK fasteners just bc that’s what we always have on hand from other projects. 👍
I subscribe you
This video gets an A for info but a D- for annoying loud weird music.
So average those grades together and I’m still passing…Not. Too. Shabby.
Jason! At 1:52, you show your manual showing how high to put the rails. I could not find this page on the SEKTION ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS: www.ikea.com/us/en/assembly_instructions/sektion-wall-cabinet-frame-white__AA-2243445-2-2.pdf
I believe it’s on the instructions that come with the rails.
@@MDCHOMES You are right! Thank you!!