Mastering Suspension Rail Installation for Ikea Kitchens
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 ส.ค. 2024
- 🔧 Mastering Suspension Rail Installation for Ikea Kitchens 🔧
Hanging the suspension rails for your new Ikea kitchen is a critical step that can make or break your installation. Doing it right from the start is essential to ensure a flawless kitchen setup.
If you follow Ikea's instructions for suspension rail installation, you may encounter problems that can complicate cabinet hanging and affect the overall result. In this video, I'll guide you through Ikea's instructions and explain why you should consider an alternative approach that delivers better results.
Time is valuable, and investing a little more time watching this video can save you from costly mistakes and time-consuming fixes. If you're short on time, jump to the most crucial part at 17:59.
With over 250 successful Ikea kitchen installations, I've learned from my mistakes, and now, I'm sharing my knowledge with you.
🕒 Timestamps:
00:00 Introduction
00:30 But first, a warning.
01:07 What is the problem?
02:32 Distance to the ceiling.
08:46 Length of the rail.
11:37 Distance between the screws.
14:57 Checking the rail for flatness.
17:19 Distance from the floor
📺 Watch now to master suspension rail installation for your Ikea kitchen and achieve professional results:
/ @kitchensbyrannes
Avoid common pitfalls and streamline your kitchen installation process with these expert tips. Don't forget to subscribe and hit the notification bell to stay updated with our latest kitchen remodelling guides and tutorials.
Achieve the perfect kitchen setup with precision suspension rail installation!
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If you are looking for complete installation instructions for IKEA kitchens stop here at this video series. It's by far the best, most comprehensive, and thorough series on YT that my wife and I have found yet.
Thanks for that, Marty 🙏
My cabinets arrive in a few days, I’m preparing the room and have already found the sagging ceiling issue… these videos are like being an apprentice to a master craftsman passing on his years of experience
There’s no way I’m even unpacking the boxes until I’ve watched all of these, thank you so much for making these
You're very welcome, Gary.
Reading comments like yours is the real reason that I keep making videos. Well, that, but also the abundance of videos on TH-cam showing you many ways you shouldn't do it 🤗
I wish you all the best.
@@kitchensbyrannesm
in my case, I opened a few, one bottom and one upper Metod cabinets just to see how they fit and read the instructions and see how everything goes before I make some irreversible mistakes. Took me a week to study in the evenings but I still had some suspicion on certain steps. Just yesterday, after drawing rail height lines on the wall with a laser I decided to check the internet and found Rannes' channel. How lucky it turns out ! Starting with this video on suspension rails......coming from the old continent, if only all the math would be done in millimeters and not in inches (fractions, even worse😱)...just kidding, it really does not matter in essence.... 😁
Thank you so much for this one! I can't believe no one, nor Ikea, instructs on how to get as close to the ceiling as possible. I'm ready to start hanging!
You're very welcome.
I'm glad that you find the video useful. Good luck with the installation ☺️
Taking the time to watch 'Rannes' video will save you a lot of heartache. Thanks for posting!!!!
You are very welcome. I am happy that you find my videos helpful.
Thank you for taking the time to translate IKEA hieroglyphics to us!!! I completely misinterpreted a picture that you so eloquently clarified and then went further to practically give an explanation on how to do it better! Your content is appreciated! Cheers!
You're very welcome. I'm happy to hear that you find the video about suspension rails useful. All the best with your project.
Luckily I stumbled on YOUR videos specifically covering IKEA kitchens. I do have some general experience and skills (and tools) but boy did I learn some very useful tips and comments of IKEA manuals. Good thing is that I am just preparing for this and mounting rails is among the first steps....and exactly one part that I was scratching my head about....SUPERB !
I'm glad my videos could prevent any head-scratching moments for you! Who knew installing kitchen rails could be so puzzling? Keep watching for more tips and tricks!
Sir, as I was about to hang a couple of cabinets, the information you provided was invaluable. I would have stepped into a lot of these pitfalls you are addressing. Thank you for putting in the work for this extremely informative video.
I'm happy to hear that you find the videos helpful 👍
Good luck with your project.
so glad i watched this before screwing my rails to the wall!! My kitchen sags in every direction and this video saved me a world of hurt!
Thanks. I must have made it with your house in mind ☺️🙏
Thanks, great video! I am just about to install my kitchen, and until now I saw at least 10 other videos from experts. Nobody explained all the details as good as you. Thank you very much.
Thanks, Edgar. I'm glad that you find my videos helpful and I appreciate that you take the time to let me know. Good luck with your project 👍
Good video. I'll add that the measurements that you gave at the end of the video (height from baseline) are better than Ikea's instructions also. Ikea recommends 120cm (~47") above the base rail if you have 30" upper cabinets and we found that that is not high enough to provide suitable clearance to the top of the counter. Your suggestion of 50" is right on the money.
@@umchoyka Thanks 👍
Very valuable advice. Thank you again. I am a first-timer, but I am making progress like an expert.
I am not going super fast, but always forward!
Thanks again, Paul.
Slow and steady does it.
Good luck with the project.
Incredibly informative, I'm saving this video to rewatch when it comes time to install
Thanks, Marc.
Thank you so much for these videos! I will finally began my project in about 2 weeks! (after waiting for 6 months for some missing cabinets). My local IKEA doesn't have installers, so I'm preparing to do it with my husband and adult son. We have put together most of the cabinets, but the rail installation makes me nervous. Thank GOD I have super high ceilings! I'll watch all of your videos and will make my family watch them too.
Hi Ronnie,
Thank you for taking the time to leave a comment. I am happy that you like my videos and find them helpful.
Don't worry about the installation, as long as you have decided to do it RIGHT, it will be fine.
And, don't be shy, send a question if you run into problems. I will be happy to guide you.
All the best with your project.
@@kitchensbyrannes OMG, thank you! I will!
Thankyou. That was easy to understand.
Thanks. 👍🤗
Best IKEA installation video I’ve seen! Thank you!
Thanks, Trina. Your comment means a lot to me 🙏
This is fantastic information. I am only installing a small 60" run of uppers and lowers but I live in a 100 year old house, so nothing is square or flat. I wondered about the heights from the ceiling and floors. I haven't opened the boxes yet, but given Ikea instructions, not sure I'd get that information. Thank you so so much for this video!
You're very welcome, Anne.
If you're only having uppers and lowers, but no pantry cabinet connecting those, you'll have no problems... almost 🤗
Just make sure you know where the lowest spot on your ceiling is, and go from there.
This video might help too:
th-cam.com/video/BixkS8JM3lE/w-d-xo.html
I think I've watched the video 10 times I finally liked and subscribed.
I appreciate your commitment ☺️🙏
Thank you TH-cam! Love this guy, great clarity, precise no nonsense professional selflessly passing on his valuable time learnt skills. What a star! Much appreciated. TY
I appreciate that! 🙏
just put together my kitchen. A laser level makes it 100x easier to install the rail.
Yes, I agree 100% 👍
Incredibly informative and very helpful information. Thank you for sharing this!
I am glad that you find it helpful.
My pleasure.
Very helpful, just about to fit my first IKEA kitchen! Thanks
You're very welcome.
All the best with your project.
Thank you. Your videos have been extremely helpful when installing my Ikea kitchen - much appreciated
My pleasure 👍
Very useful advice, the question is why IKEA can't help with all of this in the same way.A self-explanatory drawing supplemented with understandable advice would help a lot. Designers should learn to think with the mind of a simple person.Thanks Rannes for the excellent explanations.
Thank you for your comment.
I'm not sure that Ikea wants you to do it yourself since they are in the business of installation, too, as they offer to install the kitchen for you.
When I started out installing Ikea kitchens, I wished that they had better instructions, but after I learned that they actually aren't "Designing for Installation," I am pleased that they focused elsewhere.
@@kitchensbyrannesYeah, Ikea bought the company the recommended for installation and design. So, I can definitely see why they want you to buy the 'professional' installation now.
What makes this video so awesome it's like every time I go through a project I learned so much but I've made so many mistakes. Thank you so much for showing us the pitfalls and tricks I know it's saved me a ton of time and headaches
Thank you for your feedback. I am happy to hear that you find it helpful.
Great video again
Thank you so much. I have a sloping and sagging ceiling and not flat walls so your tips are great. Keep up the great work.
Thanks, Lyndon 👍
@@kitchensbyrannes Your welcome. I forgot to mention that your tip at the very end about how to hang the upper cabinet rail by measuring from the lower base line is one of the best ones. It makes it so much more clear how to do it. I hope IKEA listens. Well done!
Excellent lesson Boss
Thanks, did you rail it....I mean, nail it? ☺️
Thank you for sharing you knowledge with us. You are most appreciated. 🙏
My pleasure!
very nice info !!! Thank you. Greetings from argentina !!
Thanks, Sebastian. I appreciate your support.
Gosh I wish I had stumbled across your video a long time ago, it would have helped a ton! Nevermind though, I'll save it for the next project. Great logical explanations, thank you so much! 😊
You're very welcome.
That's right, there's always a next one waiting to happen ☺️
Very helpful. Thank you!
My pleasure. Good luck with your project 👍
Thank you. BEST VIDEOS OUT THERE
Wow, thanks!!
Agreed.......Same problem applies with B&Q and other wall cabinets.
I had no space left for my exact fit wall cabinets so couldn't use the hanging rails. Put corner brackets and screwed directly through these into the wall.
There you go, you found a way!
We are currently building an Ikea kitchen to self install into our house. We have a lot of plasterboard walls (relatively new build house, we moved in 16 years ago when it was new). These tips are amazing, thank you! I need to invest in a stud finder for our wall cabinets. Liked and subscribed
Thanks, I'm glad you like the video.
Good luck with your project 😃
More great tips! Thanks.
Thanks JL. 😊
This is a great video, well explained and easy to understand. Thank you for the time you take to explain why and then how.
Thanks. I'm happy to hear that you find the video helpful.
This video was so helpful thank you.
You're very welcome.
great video! I put an extra screw tight to the bottom of the rail. Into the drywall and stud. You double the holding power from 80 pounds to 160 pounds by doing this.
There you go. Better safe than sorry.
Quick tip when doing this job alone: once you have placed the horizontal laser line on the wall at the correct height, hammer 3 tiny nails into the wall along the line. You can then rest the rail on the nails, which will make your job easier while you put in all the screws and fine tune the rail's positioning to get perfectly level. What do you think Rannes?
Thanks for the tip.
If it works for you, or others, go for it.
I usually put in the first screw in the middle of the rail and let it hang on that. Then do each end and then the rest.
Great video! Well done!
Thanks. I appreciate your feedback 🙏
This guy is the contractor version of Alan Watts! Great Video aswell.
I had to look him up 😔
"self-styled philosophical entertainer."
I'll take it ❤️
Smart points, great video!
Thanks 😊
Great video, very helpful, thank you
You're very welcome 🤗
You fo such a great job. So many helpful hints, so much information to make the job easier. Thank you !
You're very welcome 🤗
This has been really, really helpful. Thank you so much!
You're very welcome. Good luck with your project.
Underbar video Lars! Jag är renoverings "contractor" i Peterborough, ON (inte svenskt men bodde där under 10 år).
Tack så mycket, Sam 🇸🇪
Excellent video.
Thanks 👍
Du er bare fantastisk - tusind tak for dine råd og forklaringer 👍🏼
Mange tak ☺️
Det glæder mig at du kan lide mine videoer.
Best video explaining the reasoning system and a great help.
Glad it was helpful!
@@kitchensbyrannes I'm still terrified to do it but i will try.
I'll have to watch this over a few times to be more confident. Lol
Don't be. Easy Peasy 👍 You got this 👍
Perfecto! Thank you 👍
My pleasure 🤗
great illustrations - terrific presentation - thank you for preparing this 🙂
Your appreciation means a lot! I'm happy to help.
I wouldn’t want to install the ikea kitchen without this video 🥴
Thanks Michelle 🙏
Great info, thank you. Thumbs up, Cheers from Osoyoos BC :)
Glad it was helpful! 👍
Very, very helpful information! Thank you so much for taking the time to make this video. It will help me a lot!
You're very welcome, Donna.
I'm happy to hear that you find the video helpful.
Good luck with the project.
I have not installed kitchen cabinets, but I have done a lot with their other Alex drawer units and storage cabinets. I am wanting to hang some wall units above my washer dryer. I have 60 inches wall-to-wall. I wanted to buy 230 inch cabinets but I’m afraid about getting the cabinet doors open against the walls. I was looking for anything in your videos that might help with that question. you are awesome at explaining everything!
If you have regular doors, on your cabinets, you can get away with almost no clearance to the wall.
If you have 60+ inches from wall to wall, two 30" wide cabinets might work.
Thanks for the video. I'll be using this info next week. Do you ever adjust the height for different countertop thicknesses?
You're welcome.
No I don't, as the Ikea system doesn't take that into consideration.
Thank you very much for an amazing channel. I learned a lot form you. My ceiling is not perfectly horizontal in the direction of the rail, but I installed the rails perfectly leveled. Now, the gap between the ceiling and cabinets on the left is about 3/4" perfect for molding while the right one is only 1/4" too small. I was wondering what you would do in these situation? Thank you
Thanks. I'm happy to hear that you find my videos helpful.
The gap.......do nothing 😀
The shadow between the ceiling and the cabinets is doing a much better job than anything else you could think of putting in there.
th-cam.com/video/qAvuCW_3KQ8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=5Q2HEFRnRpRiCfdD
did you drill the cabinets to the wall as well or did you used the gray clips ?
Clips only.
Great video @kitchensbyrannes ! Does the same apply for taller (80 inch) cabinets with legs as the base cabinets - that the cabinet does not need to be held by the rail, only the legs? Is it sufficient for one 80 inch x 30 inch tall cabinet if I cut a 29.5 piece of rail attached to 2 studs on the inside of the cabinet brackets (the cabinet has four legs). Thanks!
You're welcome. Yes. For the high cabinets the rail is less important as it stands on four legs, as you mentioned. I only rely on the rail for those for two things. 1) Keep the cabinet hanging until I have placed the legs, and 2) Keep the cabinet from falling forward or to the side i.e. securing it to the wall.
@6:06 the item on top of the Fridge - I think IKEA might call it Musfälla - but I don't think it comes with the rails.🙂
Great video thanks for the really useful tips/advice.
Funny, musfälla means mouse trap in Swedish. 🤣
You're very welcome.
Your videos are terrific! I am wondering what type of wall anchors I can use for the rails as my ceiling is vaulted and the number of studs is limited.
Thanks 🙏
The key word in your question is "limited." Any rail I install must be secured into minimum one stud per cabinet, as a rule of my own thumb, and if there's a wall cabinet sitting by itself, two must be the desired minimum.
However, no rules without exceptiond, so every now and then I am faced with a situation where the studs are 24' on center and there's a single 21" or less wide wall cabinet in the plan. Depending on the situation, I sometimes say "no, not possible " and sometimes I use a number of anchors together with one or two securely fastened screws into the one stud available.
All this, and you didn't even ask about that.
The only drywall anchor I use is shown at the bottom of this page:
kitchensbyrannes.com/screws-for-ikea-suspension-rails/
Super video. Den har reddet mit nye bryggers og min søndag 👍
Tak! Det er godt at høre at jeg kan bidrage til fædrelandets søndagshygge ☺️
Go' arbejdsdag med bryggerset.
Thanks for posting. I’m total new to this work. What type of screws do you suggest to use to further tightening the rail? Also, what’s your suggestion on filling the ceiling gaps due to the sagging leveling
Thank you for your questions.
For suspension rail screws, I use the ones mentioned at the bottom of this page: kitchensbyrannes.com/screws-for-ikea-suspension-rails/
I always leave the gap between the ceiling and the cabinets open. I think that any material used to close the gap will enhance the difference in height. I believe the shadow is doing a much better job in evening out the "eyesore."
Thanks for this excellent info. Ihave a question. I'm installing the base cabinets on the floor and have a level area for the most part. I'd like to mount the cabinets to the rail and put 1/4' lattice under the front & back of the base cabinets so no door issues open & closing. How high should the rail be from the floor? I'm using the cabinets for an office and cannot have the countertop height so I've eliminated the legs for leveling.
Okay I see.
The underside of the rail should be 32 3/16" minus 4 ½" plus the thickness of your lattice, from the floor.
Good luck 🤞
Will be upgrading a kitchen soon and saw your very very useful videos. I’ll definitely be watching the series to ensure I learn all the useful proven tips and guides.
A quick question here - is there an easy way of ‘levelling’ just using spirit level iso a laser level ? Doing one kitchen only so probably not justified to get a laser unit. Advice appreciated. Thanks
Thank you for your feedback.
Sure, leveling with a spirit level is possible, but you'll thank me for recommending getting a laser level since hanging rails and assessment of ceiling and floors are super easy with the laser. Spirit level for these tasks are almost impossible.
@@kitchensbyrannes I’ve taken your advice and purchased a laser level.
Just a query on the height of cabinet (with benchtop). Can you please advise the maximum possible height for ikea metod cabinets & standard ikea legs. I am considering a total height from floor to the top of the benchtop of around 960mm (the height of existing benchtop). And how to achieve this height. Planning to use 38mm thick benchtop. Thank you
Cabinet height. I have to admit, that when it comes to the maximum height adjustability of the Metod legs, I only know what I can read on the Ikea website as I have no experience with those. Here in Canada, we have the Sektion system with different dimensions.
Sorry I cannot be if more help.
That said, keep in mind that if you have wall cabinets too, the distance between the uppers may be reduced unless these will be mounted higher up on the wall too.
Hi. Your videos are very informative. Regarding rail height, is the measurement from the unfinished floor under the cabinets or the finished floor that will be what you see? I will have new wood floor installed after the cabinets are in. Thanks for a response.
Thanks.
Yes, when you hang the rails, add the thickness of the floor that'll come in after 👍
Great video!! I’m using the ikea cabinets in my laundry room. I have the 40” tall upper cabinets, but i also have tall ceilings so I can’t put them right up to the ceiling. In that case, what would you do for screwing the rail between the studs? Would I have to use wall anchors in that case?
Hi Pamela,
Thanks 👍 and thank you for your question.
If you're using the rights screws and the studs are sitting 16" apart, I normally don't add anchors, but it depends on each individual situation.
I often add an anchor at the end of there's more than 6 inches to a stud with a screw.
I use the anchors mentioned in this article:
kitchensbyrannes.com/screws-for-ikea-suspension-rails/
Thank you. Very useful. I wish you used cm but I appreciate your location.
Tak, Anders.
Du har en pointe med de der centimeter. Jeg vil huske at tilføje centimeter som tekst fremover.
Thanks Anders.
Point taken, I'll remember to add metric values as text going forward.
@@kitchensbyrannes Mange tak!
Nu med centimeter 👍☺️
kitchensbyrannes.com/ikea-kitchen-suspension-rails/
Hi, thank you for your great videos, I have a question, when starting with the lower cabinets, should I add 1/4” to the 32-3/16 to compensate for the new flooring we’ll be adding after the cabinets are installed, please let me know ,, thank you
You're very welcome.
Yes, add the thickness of the floor to 32 3/16" as you wrote 👍
I was intrigued as to why you kept referring to measurements in the somewhat archaic imperial system, even in the UK all trades use metric. Then I realised you're based in the USA.
Hi Ian. Yeah, I know....sorry 😞I was deported from Europe to Canada a good ten years ago, and the imperial infection has gotten the best of me. Even though Canada officially is metric, nobody seems to care.
But....I had my old home region in mind when I made this one: th-cam.com/video/BixkS8JM3lE/w-d-xo.html
Hi Rannes. Thanks so much for all your great help videos, they are a service to all.
I’m just about to install 2 high pantry cabinets with 400mm cabinets above them and then 2 cabinets between them, where a fridge will be housed under. I’m unsure if I should fit the top rail for the 400mm cabinets first or if I should first for the rail for the high pantry’s first and then the rail for the cupboards above ? Your advice would be appreciated.
Thanks Nick
Hi Nick, thank you for your feedback.
I am happy that you find my videos helpful. I better make that video on stacked cabinets soon, as I get a lot of questions about "how to" with the rails for that specific setup.
You want to start by holding your level onto the wall to check if the wall leans forward or backward (seen from the room). If it leans back, start with the lower rail; if it leans forward, start with the upper. Then, shim the next level of rails so the two rails are vertically in line with each other. If you fail to do so, the cabinets will not be flush on the front. And remember that the distance from bottom to bottom of rails (or top to top as that will be the same) must be equal to the height of the top cabinet.
@@kitchensbyrannes
Many thanks Rannes. Makes sense, I’ll be sure to make certain the cabinets are level and you’ve answered my questions regards the rail spacing. Much appreciate you sharing your experience and saving everyone lots of headaches !!
@@nickjones9505 you're very welcome 👍
Fantastic video. Really informative. Thanks for taking the time. What’s the distance from the bottom of the support rail to the top of the cabinet? Does the top of the rail just sit flush with the top of the cabinet? I would like to instal one cabinet but the bottom of the cabinet has to just clear standard 5.25” baseboards. So I’m trying to figure out how to calculate the height of the rail and where to place it. (Hope that makes sense 😃).
Thank you for your comment. I'm happy that you find this video helpful.
The distance from the bottom of the rail to the top of the cabinet is 2 3/8" and the rail isn't flush with the top of the cabinet. About 1/8" in difference.
If the lower edge of the rail is sitting 32 3/16" from the floor, there's about 4 1/2" from floor to cabinet. If you need 5 1/4" you'll have to add the difference to where the rail sits ie approximately 33" with a bit of safety margin.
But first, but a level on the floor and measure from the highest point.
Good luck with your project.
Thank you so much for the thorough answer. That’s exactly the explanation I needed. The points you made in this response and in the video about using a laser level to measure from the highest points in the project (whether from a slanted floor or sagging celling) is fantastic. Time to start incorporating laser levels in my projects now. Thank you again for sharing your expertise. PS. In the new Sektion Rail instructions, from Ikea online and not the print ones yet, they removed the weird 6/8 fraction and say you need 1” from the ceiling height.
Yeah, you're right. They must have changed it recently because I just copied that picture not long ago.
Oh well, 1" isn't helping either ☺️
Hi, Thanks for the video.. I’m trying to screw only one high cabinet, whether I need rail or I can screw directly to the stud? Luckily I have studs behind each end. If I can screw directly what screw you recommend?
Yes, in that case, rail isn't needed.
Remember to put the black plastic thingy into the brackets, to get the same distance. I regularl 3" long screw for wood, or similar, will work.
I would use the rail though. Much easier as you can hang the cabinet up without the legs, and add legs after. If you go without rail, balancing the cabinet on the legs is a pain.
Good information here, but just as an FYI... most installers will tell you that measurements from the ground up assume that you are taking that measurement from the highest point on the floor and using a "level", not a random fixed point from measuring. Your points are valid in terms of saying things will not be squared, but IKEA assumes that you have knowledge of using high-point leveling (they actually provide something like an inch of variance in the length of their legs to account for this. So, at whatever high point along the floor you find, you take the 32 and 3/16 inches and mark the wall there drawing a line across the wall using a long level (preferably at least a 4' level if not a 6' or 8'). If you have the equipment, you can use the laser level at that point as well. You do the same for the upper cabinets as well, but you have to account for the ceiling drop as you mentioned. But you still want to keep the measure according to the floor so the tops of your cabinets do not vary (and the distance between the upper and lower cabinets conforms with your local building codes). And you want to do that at the same point that you did with the lower cabinets. Then you check the distance between the two lines at various points to make sure they're consistent. Install the rails accordingly and check again to make sure the distance between them is consistent again. Do that and you'll have a good installation.
Thanks for sharing, even though I'm not sure what your point is exactly though 🤔
Been reading your comment a few times, and I disagree on a number of thing, but I'll let it be. All the best. 👍
Thanks for the useful tips. I'm starting to remodel the kitchen too and stumble on your channel. The only issue I face is my wall is not straight, there are two diagonal sides which wall parts away and I have no idea how I can make the fillers between the flat and the diagonal ones. I only see cabinets installed on flat walls and none have diagonal walls which make an angle , I guess I have stop at the intersection on flat one , and install one on the diagonal side and looking how to make a filler. But any advice is greatly appreciated!
Thank you for your comment.
I appreciate your contribution.
The walls. Do you mean that a longer wall is breaking outwards and opening up at some point?
If so, a filler where they meet might be the solution. If possible, you could make the filler 5" wide and put a 5" drawer front on top of it, so it looks like a narrow door. That'll only work for the base cabinets and a 30" high wall cabinet though.
Good luck with your installation.
@@kitchensbyrannes Yes, the 2 walls are at an angle, my cabines are 40 inches high so say I mount both of them, one is facing as normal on straight wall, the other is facing diagonally with the angle. I think I have to make the one in the angle closer as possible so I can put a filler. My old kitchen was custom, so they cut to fit the angle. Unless I have to custom cut a 12x40 inch cabinet to fill the gap and to make it fit the angle? I do have the same problem at the base cabinets but like you say I can use a drawer for that since I need the countertop on it.
@@cpm5303 Ah, I don't follow completely. Fillers are not always easy, so just do your best. That is all we can ask of ourselves 🙂
Good Morning
We are trying to figure out how to hang upper stacked cabinets? Do we start with the lower first? Will they be a tight fit? Thanks so much! We are in the middle of our build. Boxes everywhere lol!
Signed, Mrs Heras
Good morning, Mrs Heras. Your timing is imminent. I am spending my Sunday working on a short video promoting a post on that topic. Check it out below, and make your choices based on your room and setup.
kitchensbyrannes.com/ikea-kitchen-suspension-rails/
I hope you will find it helpful. Good luck with your project.
Thanks! About the shims on the wall (see 15:50): How accurate do you select the shims? I bought some shims, and the slimmest version is 1/16” = 1.6mm. Is that accurate enough to shim the rail (on the important points) to be accurate to 1/16”? Or would it be better to have it accurate to 1/32” or 0.5mm or what do you suggest? Thanks
The 1/16" accurate enough. No need to get the thinner ones.
OMG, What a beautiful shade of blue, please tell me what shade of blue it is! LOL, I saw upon closer inspection that it is foil.
It's the special Smurf Edition 🤣
I am hanging one rail with two 36 inch cabinets next to each other about 15 inches down from the ceiling. Do I have to concern myself with shimming any gaps? I am thinking not, since it is one rail that the two cabinets will be hanging from. However, I don’t want to be surprised hand have to do it all over. The space I am working in is 74 inches wide.
It depends. Are the gaps you mention between the rail and the wall?
Since you only have two cabinets, you have to be sure that the two ends and the midsection are on the same plane, as that's where the brackets will hang.
That said, you can not make it too flat, and you certainly don't want the midpoint protruding from the two ends as that will leave you with a gap between the cabinets you cannot close with screws without twisting the cabinet boxes.
The short answer: make sure the rail is horizontal and flat
Impressive video, I wish I had stomped on it prior to installing the rails and cabinets, I completely missed the fact that the floors are not flat, and I'm currently in the process of redoing everything. A couple of questions though:
1. Do I place the laser level in the center of the room - irrespective of its depth - and set the laser line @32 3/16" and check where it sits 2 ft away from all the walls that have cabinets? Or do I measure it for a single wall and then apply it across the perimeter?
2. My biggest issue is this: Assume one point the laser line sits perfectly at 32 3/16" from the floor, upon installing the railing do I level it based on this height or based on the laser line (even though at other points along the laser line there will be different heights because of the flooring)?
Thank you!
Thanks.
Put your laser at a position where it can cover all wall involved. Any part of the base cabinets connected with the same countertop or stove, must be at same height. If your floor varies a lot, find a good middle ground.
2. All rails follow the laser, not the floor. If not, your hotdog buns will roll of the countertop ☺️
@@kitchensbyrannes Got it! Thank you so much
Question: The Ikea diagram says 32 3/16, but verbally you said 32 1/2. Is there a reason for this? Just a little confused about that. Thank you for the excellent video with all the tips and tricks! Extremely valuable!
Oh, didn't know. I better watch it again.
32 3/16" is the accurate height from the floor, but a few factors can justify a small variance. Just know that any difference from 32 3/16" will effect the final height of the countertop above the floor.
Also, if you put in a floating floor after the kitchen has been installed, you must offset the height with the thickness of the floor.
Great video! What screws are you using to screw the rail on the wall?
Thank you.
For stud wall I use this screw:
B&C Eagle WoodPro Fasteners ST14X212-50PC 1/4-Inch by 2-1/2-Inch Length Round Washer Head Exterior Wood Screws, 50-Pack a.co/d/f9YGm5t
Which fasteners do you recommend to hang the rail to cinderblock walls? I’m thinking of using Tapcon screws? Thoughts?
I'm not sure, Daryl. We don't have those around here in the land of drywall. You better ask at the hardware store.
Hi
I just installed the rail and have the top of the base cabinet to the floor is 34 3/4” without countertop and with the countertop being installed later with the total high 35 5/8”
So would like to know this is the regular high for the kitchen? Thanks
Yes, that's about right?
I have concrete walls with 1in furring strips. Am thinking of extending the wall out because I have the space, is laundry room. Am wondering how long the screws are for the ikea cabinets. Some have suggested just putting 3/4” plywood across the furring strips and not drilling into the cement. I didn’t think there was enough strength in that. Do you have any thoughts on that?
That's a good idea. I would secure the plywood into the concrete with screws where the furring strips are located ,so you don't pull the plywood towards the concrete. Then you can fasten the rails with som 1" #10 pan head screws. Use a lot though, one every 6-8 inch. It cannot be fastened too well. Safety above all.
did you used the gray clips to install the top cabinets or did you screw them to the wall
Yes, when the cabinets are hanging on the rail, the grey clip locks it in position. No screws needed.
If i have 98" ceilings and 40" upper cabinets am i going 60" from the bottom rail or 2.5" from the ceiling? 60" from the bottom rail is 5.5" from the ceiling
It depends. If you have 90" pantries, keep the 60" between the rails. If not, you can move the uppers up.
Hi Rannes. My new-build apartment is under construction currently here in France and the documents say that the partition walls are built with steel studs. Do you have any experience or advice for how to best screw into those?
I take your point about not relying on wall anchors but if my wall does not have a horizontal stud in good position for the upper cabinet rail should I suppose installing some sort of anchor between each stud as suggested by IKEA would be a good idea (60cm spacing is standard here but I will check). It would be good to know your preference on drywall anchor types when attaching rails - maybe an idea for a future video? I have also seen people mention adding a second screw to support the bottom edge of the rail on each stud - how do you feel about that approach?
Lastly I might be interested in spacing the lower cabinet rail away from the wall 20-30mm as I want a 650mm deep countertop to align with something else in the room and reducing the countertop overhang might be nice. In that case would it be better to attach a small section of wood at each rail screw (like very thick washers) or to first attach a 2x4 to the wall and then the rails to that?
Thanks for all of your videos - I'm learning a lot!
Thank you for your question. I'm happy to hear that you find the videos helpful.
Metals studs, oh, don't like those.
Depending on how far the project is, I would request to have some backing put into the wall. Plywood preferably. If you passed that out, I would do my best with screws into the studs (2 in each stud if possible as you mentione) and some anchors in between. I use the spiral-conical looking ones.
However, since you want to push the lower cabinets out 20-30 mm, I wouldn't refrain from adding plywood on the outside of the drywall but only where the cabinets go. The 20 mm it brings out the uppers isn't a problem since the lowers are pushed out too.
The plywood can be secured into the studs with a lot more screws than the rail alone.
For the base cabinets, I would let a piece of wood run along where the rails go. Much much better than just doing it where the rail screws go.
Thanks for the tips Rannes. I'll try to ask someone local about the metal studs too.
What is the laser level that you use? Or recommend a cheap one?
I use the one shown at the bottom of this page kitchensbyrannes.com/ikea-kitchen-suspension-rails/
I started out with a cheaper one from Canadian Tire which worked fine, but it was more difficult to place a the right height easily as it didn't have the pole.
@@kitchensbyrannes thank you !
Hi there. How much cm do you leave on a side? If there is 90 degrees corner and cabinet has door to open. Thank you
I am not sure I understand what you are asking, sorry. Please add a few clarifying words..
@@kitchensbyrannes So sorry. Ok, the first cabinet is going to the corner. How much room do you usually leave to the next 90 degrees wall , between cabinet and wall? Thank you
@@IrysBravo Ah. I understand. It depends. If the cabinet next to the wall has a door, you don't need much, close to nothing, but if it is with drawers, you want to ensure they don't hit the wall. If it is a cabinet with inside drawers, you need as much distance to the wall as the handles protrude from the front, as a minimum, as the door must open a minimum of 90° to have sufficient clearance for the drawers inside to come out.
When my rail was sticking out, I ended up sanding down the inner side of the end panel at the corner.
Yes, that's possible too if it's only protruding a little. 👍
Can I put the rail on top of a wooden ledger? I need to make space behind the cabinets for outlets.
Sure, no problem.
Base cabinets only or also wall cabinets?
@@kitchensbyrannes base cabinets under 3 windows and 2 tall pantries on the ends for a mud room.
Yeah, you can bump everything out. I often bump out the fridge cabinet and adjacent pantry cabinet to create a deeper space for the fridge.
@@kitchensbyrannes much appreciate 🙏
Hi and thanks for your sharing useful tips on installing Ikea kitchen cabinets using Sektion frame system.
I have the following issue as I don't know best height to set the top rail.
I have 40 inch top cabinets so if I use the recommended 92 3/16, I have correct 18 inch from countertop. But I have an another top 20 inch cabinet which will hold a range hood under it, if it is aligned with the other 40 inch cabinet, I have 31 inches from under cabinet range hood to countertop.
I may have to live with that extra 1 inch which goes above the recommended max distance which is 30 inches.
Or should I lower all 40 inches cabinet but I will not have the standard 17 inches from top counter to top cabinet?
What is your advice ?
You're very welcome.
I would, in your situation, use a 30" high cabin over the vent hood, but I'll cut it to 25" in height and use a 10"x30" drawer front and a 15"x30" as horizontal doors.
Hi Rannes,
I have the following issue. I double checked my top rail is leveled but when I am in the process of pulling the two top cabinets together, one of the tops is off 1/8 of an inch.
What can cause that? Is it due to the attach metal inside to hang the cabinet?
The screws seem to be at right place.
I was thinking taking down the cabinet and lower the rail which I should not do that since it's the full 8 feet rail.
Any input is greatly appreciated!
Sometimes it happens and more often lately than normal.
It can be play in the holes in the brackets that holds/hangs the cabinet onto the rail.
I normally loosen the three screws for the bracket, in the cabinet which sits the highest, so the cabinet can sink down a bit within the available movement between bracket and cabinet.
Thanks for quick reply.
I think I know why now but I am not sure how to fix this.
The other cabinet which is lower has a hood attached, as it's very heavy, it has 4 screws attached thus it pulls the cabinet downward and inwards making it not level on both directions: horizontally and vertically.
I checked the level from wall on both cabinets they are not the same.
I probably need to loosen all screws, so I can attach to the cabinet leveled first then put the hood screws back after that.
Be careful not to loosen all brackets at once. Do one at a time but where two cabinets are joined, you'll need to loosen both brackets, which are sitting back to back simultaneously.
What kind / size of screw did you use ?
Check this out.
www.amazon.com/shop/kitchensbyrannes/list/119XDTN2TNAPN?ref_=aipsflist_aipsfkitchensbyrannes
Here you'll see the screws I use, depending on the wall.
More information here:
kitchensbyrannes.com/screws-for-ikea-suspension-rails/
take care
instructions on instructions ..thank you ...i can see how one could lose one's hair with just the ikea minimalist approach to 'how to', Franz
What if the wall has two layers of HORIZONTAL 1x3 slats behind the drywall, every 16'' vertically, so having a row at 80'' and another at 96'' from the floor, making it impossible to have the suspension rail at 82-3/16 nor at 92-3/16 ??
Thank you for your question.
Yeah, that's not ideal.
If I would face this, I wouldn't install any uppers as they would be hanging in drywall only.
Too late to fix?
Alternatively, add a layer of plywood from the two horizontal strips and push the cabinets, uppers and lowers if there's a pantry involved in the lineup, and secure the rain into the plywood.
@@kitchensbyrannes Thanks for the answer! So we cannot move down the brackets on top of the cabinets so they can match the rail at a different elevation?
@@guydupont1190 In theory, yes. I can imagine it'll be a pain though as you must cut holes in the back and somehow cover the current holes for the brackets.
My local IKEA does not deliver. With your kitchen as an example, what is the volume of boxes of furniture for such a kitchen ~ how large a truck or trailer do I need to rent?
That's a good bit difficult question to answer.
A pickup truck or a 8 feet trailer with high sides should do the trick, but as mentioned, difficult to say with certainty.
How do u attach to a metal substrate?
I try not to 🤣
Metal studs are in my opinion not worthy of hanging anything but gypsum on to.
If I must, I use self-drilling screws, as many as possible, but preferably I would like to see some 3/4" plywood in the wall too.
I once had to add plywood on top of the gypsum to make it work. Not great.
kitchensbyrannes.com/screws-for-ikea-suspension-rails/
Hi! Is the height 222cm based on the standard leg (8 cm)? And should you add 3 cm (225cm) for the 11cm legs?
I cannot be certain as the dimensions for the cabinets are different in Europe compared to the US and Canada.
In North America we have 80 and 90 inch pantry cabinets which are 203 and 229 cm respectively, and I am sure that those cabinets are different in Europe.
You comment made me run home and update a DIY guide I am working on. The guide is pretty much finished but not the video. Here's a link, I am sure you will find it useful. If you find any mistakes, please let me know. kitchensbyrannes.com/ikea-kitchen-suspension-rails/
@@kitchensbyrannes Thanks. I previously only saw your video and not your website. Amazing information! IKEA really doesn’t give enough info to install properly yourself. Thanks again.
The post on my website I literally finished last night. I only made it with imperial units initially, but you question made me see the importance in having it with metric units too. And, it wasn't until then that I realized the cabinet dimensions are very different in Europe.
My base cabinets are 30’ high countertop is 1-1/8’ wall cabinets are 30’ high and I would like to have the space between countertop and bottom of wall cabinet will be 22’
So how can I calculate the distance from top edge of the rail of base cabinet and the bottom edge (or top edge) of the rail of the wall cabinet
Thanks
Put the lower rail at standard height i.e 32 3/16" from the floor, but remember to determine the exact height for your room, based on the floor assessment as shown on the video.
Standard distance to uppers is (20" - countertop) with 50" from lower rail to upper rail (with 30" upper), measured at bottom of the rails, so you will need:
50" + 1 1/8" + (22 - 20) = 52 1/8" from rail to rail bottom edges.
No guarantees 🤗👍
@@kitchensbyrannes in your calculation: 50+1 1/8 +(22-20)=53 1/8 not 52 1/8
This is the distance from upper edge of the rail of base cabinet to lower edge of the rail of wall cabinet? And If I want 24 inches instead of 22 just add 2 inches more?
Yes, as I said, no guarantees 🤣 Clearly a full inch disappeared.
53 1/8". Thanks for letting me know.
And yes, your adjustment is correct.
You got this 👍
@@kitchensbyrannes thanks
I have the other question is: base side panels such as stove, dishwasher must been installed touching on the floor or a little bit gap like 1/8”-1/4”?
If the stove or dishwasher is sitting between two cabinets, I don't add panels. I know that the designers from Ikea love those, but I guess they also like to sell 2-4 panels per kitchen.
If the stove or dishwasher only have a cabinet to one side, I "cut to Fitz the 26x 36" panel. Always sitting on the floor but with the open cut upwards, never to the floor.
If the floor isn't level, I shim it.
What laser are you using please?!
Thank you for asking.
I am using the Dewalt which I am showing in this video th-cam.com/video/dHGmSkJWzCk/w-d-xo.html
This one: DEWALT DW089LG - amzn.to/4axIVVh
And this pole: DEWALT Laser Level Mounting Pole, DW0882 - amzn.to/44WKnPP
(Both are affiliate links)
So the rail install in an existing home with 24 inch center studs how do you hang a 18 wide inch upper, That has no studs to hit.
I don't, unless there's a 2x4 running across up under the ceiling and I can sneak a screw or two in there.
@@kitchensbyrannes In recent new homes builders have gone to 24 inch centres.. Basements especially. So when i go in to hang say a set of after thought bar cabinets NO studs to hit for the uppers.
It's okay to say no. I do that sometimes if I don't have studs for two screws.