Machine shop failed! What happened?
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 ม.ค. 2022
- I sent out a cylinder head and installed it. It leaked, but I tested it before everything else got attached. So it went back, but we’re not done yet…
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Do It Yourself
That’s not a bad idea, I probably would if I had the equipment. Spoiler: the machinist found the problem. The seat was out of round by .001”, very difficult to detect. Doubt I could do better.
I have today had my no1 cylinder on my ford focus blow out two exhaust valves in one journey and go onto three cylinders , so I can't tell you how happy i am to have come across this series of brilliant and excellent video's. A really good friend of mine is going to loan me a corner of his workshop to keep costs down for me and will keep a watching eye on me and talk me through the head removal and valve hopefully replacement. Fingers crossed ha ha My mate is like you a fantastic mechanic and will now be subscribing to your channel as well and scouring the back catalog for some more gems.
Thanks again
Alan.
Great to hear, Alan. Happy wrenching.
It’s good that the shop is standing behind their work. That doesn’t happen often ! Great video!!
I really like the owner, he’s done everything and kept us a priority. Thanks May.
Hello again Tools Demo
Thank you for another Great Video.
Hi George. Thanks for stopping to say hello.
OMG that head is giving you some serious trouble lol ... between you and the machine shop I'm sure you'll figure it out. Good video Steve 👍👍👍
Thanks Theo. It was crazy, but I think we got ‘er straightened out.
I have never seen a machine shop do that before. That really sucks Steve. I never leak down an engine like that. hopefully that does not happen to me. great video thank you for sharing.
Thanks Tony. I’m betting most pros don’t test a head like that, usually be a waste of time. Right now, it’s the only car in the shop, so I thought ‘why not?’ Glad I did.
Great work bro. Im glad your machine shop is so helpful. Looking forward to the next video on this series!
I appreciate that. I’m getting excited about see her run myself.
Great Find ..
Thanks Dave for your input on the problem.
I would never use that head rebuilder. They had one job to do, and failed.
It’s getting worse every day.
Hey, I cant thank you enough for this video series! Its been a HUGE help for this daunting job.
I'm in basically the exact same boat that you were in when making this video: I ordered a remanufactured cylinder head, installed it this morning, and I have an intake valve on cyl 3 that is leaking quite a bit. I'm getting 75 psi hold from my leakdown tester, so its leaking 25%.
What ended up happening here? I saw your video where you reinstalled it and got it running so im assuming the machine shop got it right eventually? Do you think 25% leakdown is a no-go and I should send it back? I can feel a pretty decent breeze coming from the valve if i stick my finger into the intake of the head, but im wondering if maybe it just needs to run to finish breaking in and seating itself?
Any help would be greatly appreciated, and thanks again for these videos!
5% leak down is great, anything below 10% I’d be happy with. You do have a problem that needs to be addressed. My machinist eventually ended up changing to a brand new cutter on his machine and then re-ground that valve seat. He said these heads are difficult to do, they take extra time.
@@ToolDemos that's exactly what I expected but hoped you wouldn't say, haha.
Great idea leak-down testing it right when the head goes on, I'm not sure I would have thought of that, but now's the time to know if it's good or not! This job has been an ass-kicker, and I'd hate to have to start from scratch again if there's a problem.
Thanks for the reply!
Wanted to give a quick update in case anyone else stumbles upon this comment chain: I brought the remanufactured head and the original head to a local automotive machinist. He said he could rebuild my original head for about what I paid for the reman. I returned the reman and gave him the green light to rebuild the original. Took about a month unfortunately, but when I got it back the leak-down numbers were great.
Unfortunately, even after extensive reading from the service manual and watching your videos I still had a misunderstanding on how it all works: once I got the timing chain on, I had a brain fart and decided to do the timing check before I put the front cover on. I knew the harmonic balancer is not keyed to the crank, but for some reason thought the timing chain sprocket was... I rotated the engine around in an attempt to check timing and stared down the crank and didn't notice the chain wasn't moving... so I ended up torquing the piston on cyl 3 into the open valve before realizing what was going on. Ended up bending the valve and had to bring it back. He was very understanding and fixed it for a very reasonable price even though it was obviously totally my fault.
So another set of head bolts and new head gasket later it's running great now! Thanks a bunch for these videos, they were a huge help. Rebuilding engines is hard, but it's even harder when you're inexperienced and slightly dumb lol.
For anyone else reading this: nothing on the crank is held into place until the harmonic balancer is torqued down with the diamond washer in place! My transit connect is back in service now, but it was a hell of a fight to get here!
@@andycullen9311 great story! I’m glad you persevered and got it done. I think you and your car are better off for it.
I would like to congratulate you for your efforts, sincerity and professionalism at work. I personally learned a lot from you while watching your videos on TH-cam, especially when I own a Ford Focus 2008.. 1.6L 16v manual. I am not a mechanic, but I am an amateur and I like mechanics. My car overheated because the water pump was damaged. After changing the water pump, I noticed that the water hoses swelled constantly. I changed the hoses with the cover of the water closet, but there is still swelling in the hoses. After that, I made sure that there was a problem with the engine head gasket. I want to know if there is a problem or damage to the engine head, what should I do to make the head completely flat when going to the lathe, how many millimeters should be cut into the engine head
Thank you oussama. I don’t know about your cylinder head, but mine was about 0.2mm from flat. The machine shop ground the head flat and it’s good now.
thank you great teacher, here I am in Egypt but I am learning mechanics thanks to you. I would like to stay close to you to visit you in your garage to have my car repaired. Finally, I'm going to take the risk and visit the cylinder head repair shop.
@@oussamaashraf2983 That’s good news. I hope everything goes well for you.
Thanks for your reply bro, I need advice. What is the percentage of deformation of the engine head that must be replaced
@@oussamaashraf2983 you should have no more than 0.1 mm of variance across the entire head.
30 lbs vacuum why would they test it that way?
Easier, I imagine. I found vacuum testing to be insufficient for AC systems too.
3 tries to get it right??? Shop should have tested it. SMH
That's crazy the same thing happened to me. All in all I had to remove the cylinder head 4 times before they got it right, and it still wasn't the greatest but I needed the car back on the road asap so I chose to live with it. Next time I will lap the damn valves myself.
That sucks! My theory is that because they’re using a vacuum table to test for leaks they are missing some smaller leaks. I can pump 100psi into a chamber, but at most vacuum can get you about 14psi.
Seems like best practice would be for all machine shops to pressure test so why do they only vacuum test?