Great vid .... sooo much information . I’ve gone with Scorched Parts titanium chassis , towers and driveshafts . HR bulkheads and diff cases . So I’m up to 16lbs now . I’ve already fitted the m2c shock caps and pistons so gotta try your spring mod and see . Thanks
You need progressive springs. I made my own progressive springs. I have 4.5lbs at the top for good handling and 18lbs at the bottom so that the chassis slap is minimal. You have to 3D print a spacer with a grove on top and bottom, to separate the springs and hold them straight. I have also seen progressive springs at main hobbies and eBay. I'm going to try those next. I agree with you. A chassis slap is not good. I have destroyed a castle motor and ESC cause of it. Never stop experimenting! Thanks for always sharing your finds. Hope you're enjoying your weekend.
Just wanted to let you know I’ve learned a few great things from you and really appreciate it 👍 I’ve built myself a absolute tank💯 Thanks for what you do buddy💯
This is brilliant. I already put big rock springs on my exb as I noticed it bottoming out. (I have a nero and tried the springs before looking up the longer big rock springs). I was about to do a bit of trial and error with shock fluid to get it right and there you go and release this video. Thanks buddy. This was great 👍
I done a video months ago on smaller scale RCs. My point was exactly the same chassis slap is needed BUT how much before your just causing unnecessary damage to more expensive parts. Nice to see someone else question chassis slap in the same way.
Ya 4 sure! It’s been a fun experiment. In fact I still plan to do a bit more testing and probably drop one or two more videos on the topic. But as of right now I’m still running heavy duty shocks springs and enjoying it.
Lol I did the same thing..dual spring on my talion 6s.. I found I was breaking the shock tower bolt.. just removed the 2nd spring.. and winded down the spring..need to test it now
The amount of experimentation and testing you do is crazy. Definitely worth it though. Have you noticed the heavier springs and other mods have made it rougher on your shock standoffs, towers or any other suspension connecting points?
Irregardless of any shock spring upgrades, I highly recommend M2C shock standoffs. And also irregardless of shock springs, I also highly recommend the HD rod ends, or DIY tank rod ends. Search my video library regarding upgrading your shock rod ends if you haven’t seen those videos yet. To more specifically answer your question, though, it does add I’m sure a bit more strain to your components. However, I have never had any issues, bending rods, or breaking other components of the shock due to the springs.
@@EastTactics I’m not a big jumper, at least at the moment. If I do start doing more of that type of driving I will definitely look into this for my Fireteam. I might even see how difficult it would be to have a dual setup, one for jumping and one for speeding around the dirt. If it’s not that hard to make some quick changes to make it more ideal for either situation it might be worth it. Thanks for the info.
I was lucky to find a custom spring manufacturer here in my country. I spent little money until I found the right stiffness measurement for the jumps with my Traxxas Maxx 4S. What matters most is the width of the metal wire, and then the number of coils. I thought it was the other way around, but the fewer coils, the stiffer the spring. It was perfect, I finally finished the very difficult suspension adjustment.
@@EastTactics Hey. I don't know how to calculate, nor does the manufacturer say how many pounds, it just says it has 1.569 rate from the factory. In practice, the stock springs are not even suitable for a 20 cm jump, they are for those who like circuits with curves. Compared to the original, my custom one is 4x stiffer. The car weighs 5kg, about 11lbs. With that weight, I can jump on concrete at 1.80 cm high without hitting the chassis. I think it's no use making the springs too stiff, otherwise they won't work, they won't flex. The ideal world is to make a custom spring and also add a plastic hose to serve as a damper limiter (an idea already known in the RC car world). I improved the idea by using slightly soft rubbers from these finger shoes, I cut them in a circular shape, made a hole in the middle to enter the damper rods. I put two, in the back because it weighs more, the height of the rubbers was about 2cm (same as 20mm). Anyone who wants to customize their Maxx 4s for jumping, that's basically it. The spring wire must be 2.5mm wide. The silicon oil used is around 7000 CST with the original pistons.
@@EastTactics Good idea. The problem is that I'm Brazilian and I don't speak English very well, I have almost no fluency. As there is no Traxxas dealer here in Brazil, we also don't have a local audience.
No they are not the same. Yes... those springs have been MIA for along time. Here is what I recommend as an alternative. Go here www.centuryspring.com/catalog/?page=product&cid=compression-regular&id=1631CS&cdskeys=1631 order 4 of these... when they arrive take a Dremel or grinding tool and flatten the ends... these springs are golden! 4k diff fluid on all 4 shocks... and I recommend M2C zero rebound caps. any questions... let me know
I have enjoyed watching your videos over the last few weeks and I have was wondering what is your favorite 6s battery setup? Two 3s packs or one 6s pack. 50c or 100c? Thanks for your feedback.
Back in the day are used to think that running two 3S battery packs was the way to go. Because of the versatility and the option of being able to potentially run your vehicle on one of the 3S batteries at half power or both batteries together in parallel mode for double the time at half power. However I found that I never really cared to run it in low power mode and… For longer time at half power. So… I now think it’s a lot better to run one 6S battery, here’s why. Half the Maintenence and baby sitting... and half the opportunities for an issue to arise. If one of them decides to start being finicky. And then you’re stuck basically. If One ends up completely going bad and you’re stuck trying to track down the exact same one again to pair it with it buddy, and then you got one it’s brand new and learning better than the old one and one of them goes bad you can see how it’s a spiraling nightmare: Keep it simple buy one quality 6s battery. As far as your C rating, it’s a pretty negligible attribute. But the higher the better so might as well get one with a high C rating, and take a vantage of that punch power. Last note… It does take longer to charge one 6s battery on one port. Then charging two 3s batteries on two ports. But still it’s just nice not having to worry about two batteries. And you don’t have to buy a battery charger with to charge ports. However I still recommend it, occasionally now wanting to charge a mini battery like I do for my fans at the same time
Holding up great. Between it and the car door liner i put around the edges, I still can’t think of a better body solution. Stay tuned and we’ll see how year two does.
I am using a 12,000 CST oil. I haven't tested it while driving, but even without the battery, dropping from the height of my head, it didn't hit the chassis. I have a Traxxas Maxx, but my intuition is that the ideal CST is 7000 in dampers.
Yeah the X max/Traxxas line of RC have a really really good shocks and the weight to shock Balances really well developed. So I’m not surprised she’s got that great of a drop distance. Solid RC
Great question Howard, a ton of experimenting was done after my first installation of stiff Springs. Shock oils, pistons etc. in the beginning because the oils were so thin it was very bouncy as I expected. At the end of the day since I triple the stiffness of my springs I ended up having to go with not shock oil, but actual differential fluid in my shocks. I run 5000 CST differential fluid, and the M2C zero rebound shock technology. While there is a certain level of trade-off for turning your vehicle into an extreme basher versus a racer after all the experimentation it is very minimal and well worth the additional protection the shocks now add to my over 3 pound heavier vehicle. I still to this day recommend taking advantage of all the tactics that were discovered and related in my shock Springs experiment playlist, however since people are having a really hard time finding the Nuro springs in stock. My investigation continues and future videos will be relieving alternative options for stiffer springs but not just at 18 pounds. I found some at 12 pounds, and also I’m actually going to experiment with some at 24 pounds. Keep in mind the stock springs are five and 6 pounds respectively. Stay tuned for future updates and details as to which you could potentially take avantage of, what exactly to purchase and where to do it. Thanks for watching
Man I see you won the granite congrats bro I’m still looking for my first win lol so enjoy your prize homie I’m jealous lol. Glad to see this mod for shocks.
Oh wow I hadn’t even realized yet that I won that, just checked it out. Sweet my eight-year-old will love this thing looks like I got a new thing to tinker with too
@@EastTactics I hope he enjoys it I got a 14 yo girl wanting to rc since I got mine she plays with mine more than I do. Lol. Well I’m happy for you and your young one.
Nice work, you don't have any problems with diffs adding weight ,? I want from bashing outcast and 3s guys , to the kraton , I had basic following Duperbash blueprint, my kraton been good but hard pinpoint what the problem was basically rebuilt the whole truck , I thinking the diff case wore and I eliminated chassis flex , I also mostly run 4s wheels , it turned me off builsing m2 kraton spending so much on ring and pinion gears
You do have to be more careful with all the weight added on your differentials because you are a bit more likely to strip things out so you can’t be trigger-happy off the line and stuff like that. It does help though that I picked up the V5 input gear, which is made of a hardened steel versus the V4. Also you want to make really sure that you don’t just add a single shim to the externals left side of the differential, but you actually squeeze in enough shims to really push that ring gear snugly into the spiral in put gear to make for a more solid mesh. There is naturally a trade off for having a much heavier vehicle but the much heavier vehicles are so much more durable (due to all the aluminum). So yeah the biggest thing though like I said it’s just being cognizant of the weight and not being overzealous with your trigger finger
@@EastTactics yes , also I realized I was following you guys tuning, for sending it for open areas when my environment is more closed quarters with only one jump . So I'm going faster in small spaces which I have be equally hard on brakes , without pushing send it limits the rcs being set up wrong and kraton made me learn hard way,opposed to the lighter rcs , ahh I didn't know v5 has hardened steel input, I just picked up typhon they give you the bearing shimms on the side instead installing, I did diff fluids but mesh was very tight .
Duuude, excellent video and what a fantastic idea. I'm definitely gonna try this shock setup you have, as I've also put that much extra weight onto my truck. I have the full M2C setup on my Kraton V4 too, so when you say you have the shock caps, do you mean you are also using the pistons with the O rings that comes in the kit in your setup? I've always been concerned about how much I bottom out and want to stiffen it up a lot more than standard. Also, if you've ever wanted to replace your front bumper with an EXB front bumper and want to run the M2C hinge supports, I've made a video on my channel on how I modified mine to fit. Check it out and let me know what you think. Reason being, I saw that your have an RPM bumper, which I've had and are great, but I found that the screws pop thru the countersink hole after a while. Keep up the great videos. Subed
Thanks for the comment! Yes when I say Shock caps, this includes the pistons. Glad we found each other’s channel. Yes I do have the EXB bumper on hand and plan to rock it in the front. I even have the M2C front and rear hinge pin kits on hand too. I know a mod idea will be in order when I eventually install it (just waiting for my current stuff to break...lol) I plan to create a vid too regarding getting that bumper around those beefy pins... so watching your vid will be helpful. I’ll plug your channel too when I do it ok.👍 sub’d back Ya... your right about the rpm bumpers (there a great bumper, but the screw do pop out. I remedied the issue here, which is why the sucker won’t break, lol th-cam.com/video/3gHFxRwgBHc/w-d-xo.html Thanks again for subbing!!!
My truck has gained considerable weight to The body from Ronald Fisher and the M2C chassis and voltage hobbies braces and servo mount added weight to the RC. I just might have to try out the Nero springs. I saved for a long time to buy my M2C chassy. Sure wish I could buy more of Mitch’s Products. I will soon get more. It’s fated to be. ❤️😉
Are you referring to the M2C shock caps. Yes… My video goes into great detail about preventing leakage. Also implements a tactic to go a step further. Check it out th-cam.com/video/Iw9Vp7hgD_0/w-d-xo.html In a nutshell, your first want to make sure the caps screw all the way down to the base of the shock without any gaskets inside. Second, after doing this you can rest in confidence that the threading is clean and that the recommended amount of tightening can be performed. If you over tighten these cabs you will unseat The gasket very easily, ridiculously easily in fact. The next thing you can implement is the balloon rubber seal tactic that I showcase in the video. I haven’t had a single issue with leakage on mine
Oh… So you’re saying you’re getting leakage from the bottom of the shock module itself down onto the rod? My advice above is if you were experiencing leakage from the actual caps. In that same video there is a section where I talk about putting back together the shocks, and I recommend using a product called green slime to help prevent leakage is. Also… Do a close inspection of the plastic ring that your Shock rod goes through because if it’s oval shaped at allYou’ll get leakages
@@EastTactics drone ? Come on man people like us don't fly. But hey good to try something new I guess. I recommend you do a video on properly installing 6S lipo battery and keeping your receiver antenna intact and clear. I'm going to do a small video tonight about it maybe you can give some pointers as well. Got my balance connector chewed up twice since I had my car. Check out my orange truck video lol. You have the best videos brother on tactics. Plus your channel is huge now and people will watch this one for sure.
@@paulrakis lol.... ya, believe it or not a year and a half ago before a started my channel I was on the fence for buying a high end RC, or getting into the FPV drone flying hobby. I chose RC as you know. Now... i finally have both, lol. Flying a drone in full FPV/manual mode is super hard and weird to learn, I've always been a gamer... and this shiz is off the wall non intuitive, so thats why I stayed away from the drone world. Now.... tho... DJI came out with a drone the married the rookie way to fly with fast paced FPV, with their new DJI FPV drone. So i couldn't resist. Whats funny tho... as i think of it as both a new toy to get entertainment flying and create unique content on... I more so think of the drone as a NEW TOOL for helping me film my RC videos. So im excited for that. i'll answer your battery question in the next post
@@paulrakis Thats a great idea!, I should make an updated video regarded batter installation and balance card protection. I've never had an issue with my antenna issues tho, so maybe you can enlighten me on what the common issue people might be having is. I picked up the tactic remote and receiver in the first week I had my RC. the Receiver doesn't have an external antenna at all... its sort of built into the little box. So... ive never had the little wire thing sticking out. Regarding your battery issues... and the balance terminal issue... I actually have dropped videos covering the topic... but they were when my channel was small and the videos are separate... I should make a new updated vid that covers both topics.... and expands on the whole... "which is better... 1 6s battery... or two 3s battery. so thanks for the tip... I added to to my notes for future vid ideas. and put it near the top. I recently had a guy just ask me what i recommend regard which to run. one 6s or two 3s... i'll post the response I sent him in a new post. ohh... her are those two vids I mentions I created along time ago. Balance terminal tactic th-cam.com/video/gTdHIRf4cm4/w-d-xo.html Everything you need to know about your battery th-cam.com/video/WSALCiKZ7QU/w-d-xo.html oh... and me talking about this new drone th-cam.com/video/wSKgMI8TsXQ/w-d-xo.html You just gave me an idea... im going to make a new playlist on my channel and put all my batter related vids in it. here the link to that! Thx! th-cam.com/play/PL9UjUE_DygV-BQS_qnaUF6t5meomQmvHP.html
@@EastTactics wow nice man. Yeah it definitely would. There are so many flyers out there that spend slot to fix there stuff when it breaks especially planes or helicopters which is just super expensive to maintain and all that. Maybe not too much electric helicopters but I heard they're amazing to fly. Yeah man with the name of East tactics you can pretty much do all kinds of videos on anything from RC cars to real cars planes, choppers there's definitely always a tactic for something.
Great vid, take a look at something like www.flexosprings.com/stock-springs/compression-springs/343728 rather than double springs, more than double the Nmm than stock, I have them on my EXB and they work really well.
Interesting... ya, I dont run the dual springs anymore... just one spring on each now. The Big rock springs do the job... but I would love to buy a set of springs that are actually better fit, and still have the stiffness I like. Can you provide a link (can one even be generated) for that site showing the exact Size and length for the from and rear shocks on the 6s line?
@@EastTactics Ill link my build thread on arrma forum, scroll down the pics to see the springs next to stock ones. www.arrmaforum.com/threads/exb-prowler-edition.36081/#post-496072
@@prowler-6666 Bro! you do some Sick shiz with your vehicle. love the custom ESC mount. We need those avialable in the states. put those on Ebay or something. Hate having to buy them from Alza. Too expensive to ship. Whats the motor fan attached to in one of your picks. looks like another custom thing for your motor? Cool stuff bro. So I found your links for the specific springs. and it looks like I cant just buy them outright... i have to get a quote from the company since they are in the UK.... waiting for t hem to quote me... worried it will be EXPENSIVE! We'll see. Thanks for commenting.
@@EastTactics The motor fan mount I designed myself and had it laser cut by a local firm. PM me on the forum and ill send you the CAD files for that and the esc mount. The fans used are the ones you recommended in one of your vids :D looking into adding a heat sensor to it though so it auto starts at a set temp.
I'm of the Same opinion about the violent slapping makes me not want to jump at all. Great vid.
Your at another level hope arrma are watching you they could learn a lot👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks… that means alot
5000 CST for shock oil is insane! but if it works....rock on.
Very informative ! Always enjoy watching and learning .
Great vid .... sooo much information . I’ve gone with Scorched Parts titanium chassis , towers and driveshafts . HR bulkheads and diff cases . So I’m up to 16lbs now . I’ve already fitted the m2c shock caps and pistons so gotta try your spring mod and see . Thanks
You need progressive springs. I made my own progressive springs. I have 4.5lbs at the top for good handling and 18lbs at the bottom so that the chassis slap is minimal. You have to 3D print a spacer with a grove on top and bottom, to separate the springs and hold them straight. I have also seen progressive springs at main hobbies and eBay. I'm going to try those next. I agree with you. A chassis slap is not good. I have destroyed a castle motor and ESC cause of it. Never stop experimenting! Thanks for always sharing your finds. Hope you're enjoying your weekend.
Just wanted to let you know I’ve learned a few great things from you and really appreciate it 👍 I’ve built myself a absolute tank💯 Thanks for what you do buddy💯
Josh… That means a lot to me! Thanks
This is brilliant. I already put big rock springs on my exb as I noticed it bottoming out. (I have a nero and tried the springs before looking up the longer big rock springs). I was about to do a bit of trial and error with shock fluid to get it right and there you go and release this video. Thanks buddy. This was great 👍
This is all good. I've already got my eye on the M2C shock caps and pistons. Also the tower strengtheners and shock mounts. Thanks guys.
Awesome stuff brother, can I expect to see a video from you I’d love to see your drop test
I'll try and do one tomorrow for you buddy. 👍
ty for your vids my Kraton v5 will be here Tuesday and ive watched all your vids now. ty for your time and effort!
Awesome... glad I’ve helped!! Thanks for following
I done a video months ago on smaller scale RCs. My point was exactly the same chassis slap is needed BUT how much before your just causing unnecessary damage to more expensive parts. Nice to see someone else question chassis slap in the same way.
Ya 4 sure!
It’s been a fun experiment. In fact I still plan to do a bit more testing and probably drop one or two more videos on the topic. But as of right now I’m still running heavy duty shocks springs and enjoying it.
I'm definitely going to try this
Lol I did the same thing..dual spring on my talion 6s.. I found I was breaking the shock tower bolt.. just removed the 2nd spring.. and winded down the spring..need to test it now
M2C stand offs are a must
The amount of experimentation and testing you do is crazy. Definitely worth it though. Have you noticed the heavier springs and other mods have made it rougher on your shock standoffs, towers or any other suspension connecting points?
Irregardless of any shock spring upgrades, I highly recommend M2C shock standoffs.
And also irregardless of shock springs, I also highly recommend the HD rod ends, or DIY tank rod ends. Search my video library regarding upgrading your shock rod ends if you haven’t seen those videos yet.
To more specifically answer your question, though, it does add I’m sure a bit more strain to your components. However, I have never had any issues, bending rods, or breaking other components of the shock due to the springs.
@@EastTactics I’m not a big jumper, at least at the moment. If I do start doing more of that type of driving I will definitely look into this for my Fireteam. I might even see how difficult it would be to have a dual setup, one for jumping and one for speeding around the dirt. If it’s not that hard to make some quick changes to make it more ideal for either situation it might be worth it. Thanks for the info.
I was lucky to find a custom spring manufacturer here in my country. I spent little money until I found the right stiffness measurement for the jumps with my Traxxas Maxx 4S. What matters most is the width of the metal wire, and then the number of coils. I thought it was the other way around, but the fewer coils, the stiffer the spring. It was perfect, I finally finished the very difficult suspension adjustment.
Nice! These are for a Maxx 4s?
What pound springs come stock?
What pound springs did you up to?
@@EastTactics Hey. I don't know how to calculate, nor does the manufacturer say how many pounds, it just says it has 1.569 rate from the factory. In practice, the stock springs are not even suitable for a 20 cm jump, they are for those who like circuits with curves. Compared to the original, my custom one is 4x stiffer. The car weighs 5kg, about 11lbs. With that weight, I can jump on concrete at 1.80 cm high without hitting the chassis. I think it's no use making the springs too stiff, otherwise they won't work, they won't flex. The ideal world is to make a custom spring and also add a plastic hose to serve as a damper limiter (an idea already known in the RC car world). I improved the idea by using slightly soft rubbers from these finger shoes, I cut them in a circular shape, made a hole in the middle to enter the damper rods. I put two, in the back because it weighs more, the height of the rubbers was about 2cm (same as 20mm). Anyone who wants to customize their Maxx 4s for jumping, that's basically it. The spring wire must be 2.5mm wide. The silicon oil used is around 7000 CST with the original pistons.
Good stuff!
That’s awesome you were able to get this all worked out.
Do you post to TH-cam, would love to see an overview of all you’ve done
@@EastTactics Good idea. The problem is that I'm Brazilian and I don't speak English very well, I have almost no fluency. As there is no Traxxas dealer here in Brazil, we also don't have a local audience.
Gotcha
Are the big rock 3s v3 shocks the same as the ones used in your video? The Nero shocks are mia
No they are not the same.
Yes... those springs have been MIA for along time.
Here is what I recommend as an alternative.
Go here
www.centuryspring.com/catalog/?page=product&cid=compression-regular&id=1631CS&cdskeys=1631
order 4 of these... when they arrive take a Dremel or grinding tool and flatten the ends... these springs are golden!
4k diff fluid on all 4 shocks... and I recommend M2C zero rebound caps.
any questions... let me know
This is useful, I am collecting information about set ups for my Talion 6s. Keep it up 👍
Have videos showing how to change out shocks? Or changing oil? New to rc
th-cam.com/video/Iw9Vp7hgD_0/w-d-xo.html
Got it did you change out the front as well
Yes
Did you use those same springs for the front and back?
Yes
But they require a pretty heavy rig, as well as adjusting the shock oil pretty significantly.
I have enjoyed watching your videos over the last few weeks and I have was wondering what is your favorite 6s battery setup? Two 3s packs or one 6s pack. 50c or 100c? Thanks for your feedback.
Back in the day are used to think that running two 3S battery packs was the way to go. Because of the versatility and the option of being able to potentially run your vehicle on one of the 3S batteries at half power or both batteries together in parallel mode for double the time at half power.
However I found that I never really cared to run it in low power mode and… For longer time at half power. So… I now think it’s a lot better to run one 6S battery, here’s why.
Half the Maintenence and baby sitting... and half the opportunities for an issue to arise.
If one of them decides to start being finicky. And then you’re stuck basically. If One ends up completely going bad and you’re stuck trying to track down the exact same one again to pair it with it buddy, and then you got one it’s brand new and learning better than the old one and one of them goes bad you can see how it’s a spiraling nightmare:
Keep it simple buy one quality 6s battery.
As far as your C rating, it’s a pretty negligible attribute. But the higher the better so might as well get one with a high C rating, and take a vantage of that punch power.
Last note… It does take longer to charge one 6s battery on one port. Then charging two 3s batteries on two ports. But still it’s just nice not having to worry about two batteries. And you don’t have to buy a battery charger with to charge ports. However I still recommend it, occasionally now wanting to charge a mini battery like I do for my fans at the same time
How did the rhino lining hold up on your kraton body
Holding up great. Between it and the car door liner i put around the edges, I still can’t think of a better body solution. Stay tuned and we’ll see how year two does.
@@EastTactics awesome im about to have one done and I was just wondering if it would be worth it now I think it will be thanks for replying.
I am using a 12,000 CST oil. I haven't tested it while driving, but even without the battery, dropping from the height of my head, it didn't hit the chassis. I have a Traxxas Maxx, but my intuition is that the ideal CST is 7000 in dampers.
Yeah the X max/Traxxas line of RC have a really really good shocks and the weight to shock Balances really well developed. So I’m not surprised she’s got that great of a drop distance. Solid RC
@@EastTactics Yes, I don’t think I’m going to need such a height, but I’m testing it. My Maxx is the small one, not the X, but he is quite strong. =]
Would such a stiff spring make the car hard to handle on loose surfaces like dirt? Did your increase your shock oil weight? Thanks.
Great question Howard, a ton of experimenting was done after my first installation of stiff Springs. Shock oils, pistons etc. in the beginning because the oils were so thin it was very bouncy as I expected. At the end of the day since I triple the stiffness of my springs I ended up having to go with not shock oil, but actual differential fluid in my shocks. I run 5000 CST differential fluid, and the M2C zero rebound shock technology.
While there is a certain level of trade-off for turning your vehicle into an extreme basher versus a racer after all the experimentation it is very minimal and well worth the additional protection the shocks now add to my over 3 pound heavier vehicle.
I still to this day recommend taking advantage of all the tactics that were discovered and related in my shock Springs experiment playlist, however since people are having a really hard time finding the Nuro springs in stock. My investigation continues and future videos will be relieving alternative options for stiffer springs but not just at 18 pounds. I found some at 12 pounds, and also I’m actually going to experiment with some at 24 pounds. Keep in mind the stock springs are five and 6 pounds respectively.
Stay tuned for future updates and details as to which you could potentially take avantage of, what exactly to purchase and where to do it. Thanks for watching
My kratons just under 8lbs my stock shocks are adjusted all the way out and am hitting the chassis on a regular.
What springs are you ordering
Check out the description in this video. Links to springs.
th-cam.com/video/r_4qzCCUDBE/w-d-xo.html
Is that part number for the shocks correct because I can only find the Ar330419 shocks
Oh no dw I found it it’s the 75mm shock right for the big rock Ar330417
So did you figure everything out you needed?
@@EastTactics yes thanks heaps
Man I see you won the granite congrats bro I’m still looking for my first win lol so enjoy your prize homie I’m jealous lol. Glad to see this mod for shocks.
Oh wow I hadn’t even realized yet that I won that, just checked it out. Sweet my eight-year-old will love this thing looks like I got a new thing to tinker with too
@@EastTactics I hope he enjoys it I got a 14 yo girl wanting to rc since I got mine she plays with mine more than I do. Lol. Well I’m happy for you and your young one.
Thx
Nice work, you don't have any problems with diffs adding weight ,? I want from bashing outcast and 3s guys , to the kraton , I had basic following Duperbash blueprint, my kraton been good but hard pinpoint what the problem was basically rebuilt the whole truck , I thinking the diff case wore and I eliminated chassis flex , I also mostly run 4s wheels , it turned me off builsing m2 kraton spending so much on ring and pinion gears
You do have to be more careful with all the weight added on your differentials because you are a bit more likely to strip things out so you can’t be trigger-happy off the line and stuff like that. It does help though that I picked up the V5 input gear, which is made of a hardened steel versus the V4. Also you want to make really sure that you don’t just add a single shim to the externals left side of the differential, but you actually squeeze in enough shims to really push that ring gear snugly into the spiral in put gear to make for a more solid mesh. There is naturally a trade off for having a much heavier vehicle but the much heavier vehicles are so much more durable (due to all the aluminum). So yeah the biggest thing though like I said it’s just being cognizant of the weight and not being overzealous with your trigger finger
So with all that, are you still stripping gears?
@@EastTactics lol no ive been good, id say I have about 20 packs through, I just did diff change on center ,I need get some those tecjo diff gaskets
@@EastTactics yes , also I realized I was following you guys tuning, for sending it for open areas when my environment is more closed quarters with only one jump . So I'm going faster in small spaces which I have be equally hard on brakes , without pushing send it limits the rcs being set up wrong and kraton made me learn hard way,opposed to the lighter rcs , ahh I didn't know v5 has hardened steel input, I just picked up typhon they give you the bearing shimms on the side instead installing, I did diff fluids but mesh was very tight .
So how does it run on grass now ? We need a video 🤔🤪
What was the weight of shock oil?
It runs great... will point it out in grass for ya soon.... 5000cst diff fluid
Duuude, excellent video and what a fantastic idea. I'm definitely gonna try this shock setup you have, as I've also put that much extra weight onto my truck.
I have the full M2C setup on my Kraton V4 too, so when you say you have the shock caps, do you mean you are also using the pistons with the O rings that comes in the kit in your setup?
I've always been concerned about how much I bottom out and want to stiffen it up a lot more than standard.
Also, if you've ever wanted to replace your front bumper with an EXB front bumper and want to run the M2C hinge supports, I've made a video on my channel on how I modified mine to fit. Check it out and let me know what you think. Reason being, I saw that your have an RPM bumper, which I've had and are great, but I found that the screws pop thru the countersink hole after a while.
Keep up the great videos.
Subed
Thanks for the comment! Yes when I say Shock caps, this includes the pistons.
Glad we found each other’s channel.
Yes I do have the EXB bumper on hand and plan to rock it in the front. I even have the M2C front and rear hinge pin kits on hand too. I know a mod idea will be in order when I eventually install it (just waiting for my current stuff to break...lol)
I plan to create a vid too regarding getting that bumper around those beefy pins... so watching your vid will be helpful. I’ll plug your channel too when I do it ok.👍 sub’d back
Ya... your right about the rpm bumpers (there a great bumper, but the screw do pop out. I remedied the issue here, which is why the sucker won’t break, lol
th-cam.com/video/3gHFxRwgBHc/w-d-xo.html
Thanks again for subbing!!!
My truck has gained considerable weight to
The body from Ronald Fisher and the M2C chassis and voltage hobbies braces and servo mount added weight to the RC. I just might have to try out the Nero springs.
I saved for a long time to buy my M2C chassy. Sure wish I could buy more of Mitch’s Products.
I will soon get more. It’s fated to be. ❤️😉
Indeed!!
You keep saying shock caps, don't you mean shock pistons?
You buy the caps, they come with the Pistons
Chassis slap on concrete is never good lol.
Any tips to stop shocks from leaking.i have 2 Mojaves and all the shocks leaked from day one.!
Are you referring to the M2C shock caps.
Yes… My video goes into great detail about preventing leakage. Also implements a tactic to go a step further. Check it out
th-cam.com/video/Iw9Vp7hgD_0/w-d-xo.html
In a nutshell, your first want to make sure the caps screw all the way down to the base of the shock without any gaskets inside. Second, after doing this you can rest in confidence that the threading is clean and that the recommended amount of tightening can be performed. If you over tighten these cabs you will unseat The gasket very easily, ridiculously easily in fact. The next thing you can implement is the balloon rubber seal tactic that I showcase in the video. I haven’t had a single issue with leakage on mine
@@EastTactics I think they are leaking from the pistons and oil running down. I've changed the o rings but still leak.?
Oh… So you’re saying you’re getting leakage from the bottom of the shock module itself down onto the rod? My advice above is if you were experiencing leakage from the actual caps.
In that same video there is a section where I talk about putting back together the shocks, and I recommend using a product called green slime to help prevent leakage is. Also… Do a close inspection of the plastic ring that your Shock rod goes through because if it’s oval shaped at allYou’ll get leakages
@@EastTactics great thanks.yeah I've just seen it.just ordered some green slime.they have leaked from new.all of them on both cars.
Hey bro nice 👍. When are you getting a new car ? You should at least have 3 by now lol what's going on.
Lol... I bought a 2000 drone instead. Your right tho
@@EastTactics drone ? Come on man people like us don't fly. But hey good to try something new I guess. I recommend you do a video on properly installing 6S lipo battery and keeping your receiver antenna intact and clear. I'm going to do a small video tonight about it maybe you can give some pointers as well. Got my balance connector chewed up twice since I had my car. Check out my orange truck video lol. You have the best videos brother on tactics. Plus your channel is huge now and people will watch this one for sure.
@@paulrakis lol.... ya, believe it or not a year and a half ago before a started my channel I was on the fence for buying a high end RC, or getting into the FPV drone flying hobby. I chose RC as you know. Now... i finally have both, lol. Flying a drone in full FPV/manual mode is super hard and weird to learn, I've always been a gamer... and this shiz is off the wall non intuitive, so thats why I stayed away from the drone world. Now.... tho... DJI came out with a drone the married the rookie way to fly with fast paced FPV, with their new DJI FPV drone. So i couldn't resist.
Whats funny tho... as i think of it as both a new toy to get entertainment flying and create unique content on... I more so think of the drone as a NEW TOOL for helping me film my RC videos. So im excited for that. i'll answer your battery question in the next post
@@paulrakis Thats a great idea!, I should make an updated video regarded batter installation and balance card protection. I've never had an issue with my antenna issues tho, so maybe you can enlighten me on what the common issue people might be having is. I picked up the tactic remote and receiver in the first week I had my RC. the Receiver doesn't have an external antenna at all... its sort of built into the little box. So... ive never had the little wire thing sticking out.
Regarding your battery issues... and the balance terminal issue... I actually have dropped videos covering the topic... but they were when my channel was small and the videos are separate... I should make a new updated vid that covers both topics.... and expands on the whole... "which is better... 1 6s battery... or two 3s battery. so thanks for the tip... I added to to my notes for future vid ideas. and put it near the top. I recently had a guy just ask me what i recommend regard which to run. one 6s or two 3s... i'll post the response I sent him in a new post.
ohh... her are those two vids I mentions I created along time ago.
Balance terminal tactic
th-cam.com/video/gTdHIRf4cm4/w-d-xo.html
Everything you need to know about your battery
th-cam.com/video/WSALCiKZ7QU/w-d-xo.html
oh... and me talking about this new drone
th-cam.com/video/wSKgMI8TsXQ/w-d-xo.html
You just gave me an idea... im going to make a new playlist on my channel and put all my batter related vids in it.
here the link to that! Thx!
th-cam.com/play/PL9UjUE_DygV-BQS_qnaUF6t5meomQmvHP.html
@@EastTactics wow nice man. Yeah it definitely would. There are so many flyers out there that spend slot to fix there stuff when it breaks especially planes or helicopters which is just super expensive to maintain and all that. Maybe not too much electric helicopters but I heard they're amazing to fly. Yeah man with the name of East tactics you can pretty much do all kinds of videos on anything from RC cars to real cars planes, choppers there's definitely always a tactic for something.
Great vid, take a look at something like www.flexosprings.com/stock-springs/compression-springs/343728 rather than double springs, more than double the Nmm than stock, I have them on my EXB and they work really well.
Interesting... ya, I dont run the dual springs anymore... just one spring on each now. The Big rock springs do the job... but I would love to buy a set of springs that are actually better fit, and still have the stiffness I like.
Can you provide a link (can one even be generated) for that site showing the exact Size and length for the from and rear shocks on the 6s line?
@@EastTactics Ill link my build thread on arrma forum, scroll down the pics to see the springs next to stock ones. www.arrmaforum.com/threads/exb-prowler-edition.36081/#post-496072
@@prowler-6666 Bro! you do some Sick shiz with your vehicle. love the custom ESC mount. We need those avialable in the states. put those on Ebay or something. Hate having to buy them from Alza. Too expensive to ship. Whats the motor fan attached to in one of your picks. looks like another custom thing for your motor? Cool stuff bro.
So I found your links for the specific springs. and it looks like I cant just buy them outright... i have to get a quote from the company since they are in the UK.... waiting for t hem to quote me... worried it will be EXPENSIVE! We'll see. Thanks for commenting.
@@EastTactics The motor fan mount I designed myself and had it laser cut by a local firm. PM me on the forum and ill send you the CAD files for that and the esc mount. The fans used are the ones you recommended in one of your vids :D looking into adding a heat sensor to it though so it auto starts at a set temp.
Nice!