Great improvement! It seems to be a very popular modification! Just to clarify whats actually happening mechanically to whoever may be wondering or is interested; by adding the silicone plug to the differential, you are increasing the friction between the spider gears therefore reducing its ability to rotate at different rates front to back/left to right (which is its original purpose) you are in fact creating a limited slip differential or a locker, depending if its able to rotate at different rates at all, now we can understand why the front isnt balooning as much as before, because the front and rear axles are rotating at the same speed, where as before when the front end lifted, the differential directed all the power to the front axle as the rear had traction and the front didnt, just the nature of the open (not locked) differentials. If you do the same to the front/rear diffs, drifting or power sliding will be significantly more controllable :) keep in mind that the stress that the differential is no longer taking as a whole will now be transferred elsewhere, so expect to maintain or repair other areas due to this. Happy bashing team! Btw I enjoy your videos!
Yea that makes sense. I haven’t noticed anything particularly bad about this set up. Other than the fact the ballooning went away. Although I’m not enough of a racer or intricately adept enough to understand the differences in control, stability, drifting, etc. to really say whether or not I should consider going back to a more limited slip center differential. I do know a popular loadout is having 500 K in the center difference which may be a middle ground compromise to kind of get back. Some of those control features. One of the nice things about being a Basher is you’re not really all that concerned per se about racing or drifting, or making it around the next corner faster than the next guy. So it’s sort of a ignorance is Bliss situation when it comes to bashing. I probably could learn a ton if I actually got into the racing circuit with a smaller buggies. I could ultimately lend some great, no Howell and knowledge even in the bashing arena. Needless to say, I do appreciate your input and you mentioning that you like my videos. I’ve been sort of taking a break for the winter season but I plan on kicking back up again real soon. Thanks again.
I agree with noth of you but the ear plugs make it an entirely different running truck. I prefer my notorious like this instead of it just over powering the front wheels cause I dont do back flips much so no need for the front to have more power. Nice video man great example
14:28, "that's what she said" Sorry, that went through my head, just had to share. Good video, I just recently got a Typhon 6s and have been wanting to put the silicone ear plugs in the center diff. Glad you made such a good video on it.
During your first cogging vid you asked for people to chime in on how they were all perform the standing back flip on their rig...im not sure if anyone actually helped you out in that department, but based on the reaction you gave @ 17:45 You finally got your standing back flips! :) Congrats!
So silicon ear plugs in diff on my 6s was my first "mod" punch at 7 and it just decimated my rear diff outdrive. Lowered to 3 and it is so much better. Will still do a standing backflip if I want too but overall much more enjoyable. Being able to kick the rear sideways and it stay sideways is amazing. Favorite mod so far
I really like your videos. You are a great help to me. I've only been in the hobby for about a year and have learned and used alot of your teachings. Thank you for sharing your experience.
I’ve seen this a few times with Kevin talbot and me and my dad both recently got a sledge and the tires ballon so bad.but locking up the diffs with those earplugs really helped lot more controlable
Bump the EXC start-up power, it will eliminate the cogging. Not sure how different diff fluid or silicone earplugs will eliminate cogging as it doesn't affect any rolling resistance. Check your bearings. remove the pinion and see how smooth the sledge rolls. any friction will cause cogging. Especially warn bearings on the drive system or motor.
I guess I'm about to give the ear plugs a shot. I couldn't believe the 8s wouldnt really wheelie lol. And I can't believe yours is cogging so bad. I'm running 17 on my 6s v5 and I can basically crawl like a crawler if I need to.
Ive used super clean on my kraton exb. let it sit to hopefully get the crud off. well it ate away on my chassis and now theres blotches of superclean residue. its sold at harbor freight
Yeah the company reached out to me to see if I wanted to promote their products. And so I got a bunch of it for free. The product works great in certain used cases. But I couldn’t recommend it for RC stuff. Because for me as well it ate away at the paint.
I use Traxxas number 5040 20 million diff fluid I put it in the center diff of my Redcat vigilante what a difference now she does wheelies LOL the front wheel spin has dramatically reduced giving more power to the rear wheels
The guys in the comments acting like the host doesn’t know what he is talking about clearly just want to gripe. He obviously knows RC cars and this is an informative and really well done video.
Hi mate. I put the kraton 8s motor and esc in my blx 6s kraton and cogging gone 👍🤙running 23t pinion running 6s batteries. It's going great now 😷😁🤣👍😷. Running one million cst center differential oil
So far I’m really liking the ear plugs. It’s really a nice no leak solution for throwing a lot of traction to all four tires. I’m going to continue rocking it with a new season and I will report on its continued usage
I can't understand why this guy seems so surprised by this. The front tires balloon because when the front end comes off the ground, the front tires are able to spin faster than the rear. Putting in the ear plugs basically 'welds' the front and rear together. What he filmed is exactly what I would assume it would do.
What I’ve found is when I had those giant proline badlands is that everything struggled on stock electronics…if you really want to bash backflips or copperhead II’s are soooo much easier on the drivetrain and you can run 15T no problem…I recently put max 6 and 1650kv and running 21T with copperhead II and max punch…so much easier to control with bigger pinion and smaller tires…I run 500k in the center diff and ballooning is minimal compared to prolines…im telling ya running dboots tires was definitely a game changer
Yeah I’ve got my dboots on standby. And what you’re saying makes perfect sense. I might actually toss a 15t pinion back on and see how she feels with my stock tires.
@@EastTactics can’t even tell you how frustrating being new to the hobby when I bought my V3 Kraton used 3 yrs ago…it was a painful process having to learn about shimming and diff fluids and cost me about $250 in pinion and ring gears…and replacing bulkheads with HR aluminum bulkheads helped as well but then the badlands ballon so bad I tried venting..braided fishing line thing…and even put savox servo in and still struggled to turn this tires..then I took a look at rcdude81 and rich duperbash to see what they run cuz they don’t seem to have issues with that and man it was night and day difference and can probably get by with those cheap servos now too but Savox is still running strong…btw I ran 16T with stock ESC and motor and ran great but ESC temps were jus a lil to high when running in grass or on hot day but running game changer fans you’d be golden on 16T for sure..fairly certain tires are a huge issue..and belted tires (IMO) just don’t make good bash tires
Here’s what’s interesting, it’s funny how the masculine side of us screams for the need to put 15 T 16 T17 T etc. on our vehicles when really the speed difference between the stock pinion and higher tooth alternatives is only about 5 or 10 mph faster at the top end. I mean how often are we really pushing our bashers past 50 miles an hour? I definitely am not into speed running and I find running straight down the road or in large flat Parks sort of boring. So really I don’t mind running at 12 tooth pinion for now while I sort of hang out until I get a better motor and ESC. And while the large pro line tires are definitelyHard on the stock motor and ESC. Running the stock 12 tooth pinion completely keeps them at bay. There’s a certain enjoyment that I get from riding these marshmallow tires because they do a great job with shock absorbtion etc. I do plan however to pick up the backflips LP, The next time I buy tires. And again in the not too distant future I plan on upgrading both my motor and my ESC. And at that point I’m going to absolutely toss and 20 T pinions are higher. For now I am absolutely floored that I was able to do a standing black flip with a 16 pound rig, on a 12 tooth pinion with silicone earplugs in the center differential. You… Like me, or more of a veteran in the field and we have definitely gone around understanding the inns and outs of the vehicle. And what she can and cannot handle. Thanks for following my channel. Always look forward to hearing your take on things
@@EastTactics well speed isn’t why I went with the max 6 combo though…it’s how much easier it is to control…standing backflips and small pinions are just so hard on the rear diff I cringe when I’d hit the throttle too hard when running smaller pinions and that sound of diffing out is terrible due to the amount of times I’ve replaced gears..lol…the torque is already crazy with stock electronics and 16T that I never had punch higher than 5..but with my new setup it’s so much easier to control and now have my punch maxed…those trucks weren’t designed or created for speed though they are awesome at it to me if you can control it better it’s less carnage 😂😂
Well said, I am actually looking forward to getting the upgrades. With this beautiful weather I got to get my RC out there on the battlefield. And 100 percent agree that your set up is superior to mine with the upgraded motor ESC and larger pinion.
I liked how it just passed by sliding on its roof but when it came back for a redemption it just cogged out lol. Redemption #2 was a redemption and a half lol.
@@dankeplace hello I can't remember but I think I only used one ear plug an it filled the center diff you will want to go ahead and order the metal chassis brace for it the plastic ones was the first to break on mine got mine from the team corally web site really helped and wasn't that much I haven't ran mine in awhile as my battery went bad and I blew a tire lol those big batteries are expensive
My TEAM CORALLY RADIX 4 did the same..too much power goes to the front..put 1 million in the center diff....but felt the same.. Today i put Silicone Earplugs in it..hope to run it soon.
Earplugs will give you standing backflips all day long on stock system in the kraton. But its really hard on your diffs. Mine can do standing backflips with 1,000,000 cst as well just fyi
@@EastTactics I've been doing more research on the earplugs. I have a better understanding of it's purpose. Those numbers make sense. Thanks again, your the Man! Happy New Year! 🥳🎉
I’m not sure I follow your question. Can you reword it a different way? What I can tell you is the springs that I currently run on my rig today are 1631. That’s the part number from MW components.com. They are 10 pound springs. I run on all four. Stock springs are 6 pounds approximately. So there’s an additional 4 pounds of spring tension on each corner of the vehicle. These heavy duty springs do require you to run 5000 CST Differential fluid inside of your shocks, and it is also recommended to have the M2C zero rebound shock caps. Hope that answers your question
Sorry bout that... I only needed one ball of silicon from that pack. (keep in mind, size may very). I didnt put any silicon under the planetary gear... I first put that in... then flattened out a small nickel size piece (used a bottle cap to cut out the circle) and layer that in first. then put all the gears and shims in. Afterwards, I used the rest (of the same ball) to press into around the four open quadrants around the spider gears. making sure to leave enough space for the final planetary gear to sit in without issue. buttoned up and there ya go. Hope that helps.
I do yes. I think it’s been great. Especially since my electronics are just the stock electronics. If I we’re running a higher end ESC, and maybe a 1600-1750kv motor, I’m might consider sticking with 200-500k center fluids. Not because I think it’s better per say… more so just not needed, with my large tires.
@@EastTactics I received my Kraton 1/8 roller in the mail. Trying to learn all the things I should consider doing to it before I drive it. Checking the screws, the oils and diff setup etc. I still need to buy the electronics. Thank you for your reply.
I myself really like how silicone earplugs in the center differential spreads the power more evenly to all four tires. With the notorious and the Outkast having a shorter body and a lot more prone for wheeling and flipping, I still think the spread of that power would be welcome. If I had a notorious, I would probably run a 16 tooth pinion, 20 K in the rear and 80 K in the front 500k in the center or silicone plugs.
Hey East tactics, what body attachments do you use and do they work with a thicker reinforced body. I did rhino Hyde and it's relatively thick and hard to get pins to fit? Thanks my man.
Check out this video on the body mounts I use. They work great, especially with my thicker Rhino lined body. Link to them in the description. th-cam.com/video/OcQRt1bpwA0/w-d-xo.html
Im set up with kraton Exb tricked out M2C hardware Castle 1650,Maxx6 esc & 20t pinion. I got it used but, still rips! Question ❓ How thick is 500k diff fluid -vs- earplugs ? Thanks for the vid!
I’m not understanding why you’re cogging on such a small pinion. I agree with upgrading the motor. Just dropped a castle 1717 1650kv in my Talion with no cogging on a 39T pinion... lower KV and big pinions are the way to go IMO.... subbed!
Agree 100%. I’m looking forward to upgrading my motor and ESC in the not too distant future. However for now, the cogging came about as my vehicle began to get heavier and heavier from upgrades. Originally at about 14 pounds my Cogging began with my 18 tooth pinion, so I dropped it to 16 and things were better. Now since my vehicle actually weighs around 16 pounds, The Coggin came back, especially after those trencher’s got put on. I was blown away when I was still able to do a standing backflip with the stock 12 tooth pinion. LOL.
I've been mixing simply green and denatured alcohol 50/50. Grease does not stand a chance and your rig will smell Minty fresh 😬👍. Nice work on the kraton! She's running strong 💪💯🤜🤛. Sounds like your kids or kid likes the RC's.
@@EastTactics same here just upgraded my 9 year old's brushed Granite to a max10/3200kv and typhon 3s arms and shafts wider now. Waiting on a big rock for my 14 year old from amain. I just bought a limitless and max 8 / 2000kv surpass.We Love this hobby!
Nothing really, because the amount of time that you can keep earplugs in your center differential is way longer than the amount of time that you should update flush out or replace classic differential fluid. depending on how much you get out and bash might be safe to just say replace the air plugs every six months. But honestly that’s just a guess I’ve never run into an issue yet. Course I don’t get out and bash as much as some people do.
This is fantastic. Great vid ET and now for me to “borrow” one of my wife’s silicone ear plugs she uses to block my snoring at night. 😂 Just want to ask this tho. Because you’ve put the solid silicone ear plug in, what is going to keep the shim under the crown pin from getting too hot and melting away the rubber o ring on the output drive cup shaft or even lubricating it and also the shims on the planetary gears. Just curious because the more fluid oils keeps that in check.
You know what... you make a great point. I’ve been seeing people use earplugs for a long time. And this issue has never been brought up. Hopefully it’s a non-issue. But now that you mention it I have noticed that people often times combine the earplugs with some of the Existing diff fluid. Maybe that’s why. I also know they make an actual differential fluid that is about as thick as silicon earplugs. I think it’s 20 million. Also had a guy respond to this video yesterday saying that he actually liked 10 million better than 20 million. You really got me thinking, so I am going to ask around to some of the other veterans and see what they have to say. Now aside from that, you may have noticed that I did use some green slime on the O-rings. But not sure how long that will last if there is a heat issue. Thanks for the heads up.
@@EastTactics I believe that silicone ear plugs are rated closer to 40mill. I asked this same question to AJJAM and asked if he leaves a bit of the old fluid in the case and he said yes he does. So once all the diff components are cleaned, drip some thick diff oil on them before placing them back into the diff case just to lube the shims then drop your ear plug into the center to do it’s magic. Hope this helps bud and keep up the great work you do. 😃👍🏼
I think you make a very good point Ryan. And that actually leave me with quite a bit of confidence that there should be a non-issue with heat or degradation. While there is some spinning it is nowhere near anything like normal. So I’m sure everything is good.
@@EastTactics About time to open the diff and see what the silicone earplugs look like now that they've been run a bit. I'll wager the diff was never essentially locked and the earplugs are more fluid than we thought, just very viscous fluid.
What’s your concern specifically? Are your tires ballooning too much. With smaller scale vehicles you want to be careful of not going to thick because it puts too much pressure on the motor. If your tires are ballooning, and this is your frustration, then it certainly wouldn’t hurt to thicken up your fluids in your differentials (starting with a Center, but I have a hard time thinking that silicon ear plugs would do well. you might consider finding out what the thickness you currently have, and perhaps doubling it or some thing. You might consider picking up better tires
Alright man I dropped comment when you were experimenting with the bed-liner for some durability huge time saver! But anyways just throwing it out there because it helped me on my arrrma Mojave, I’m definitely gonna check these silicone ear plugs for fluid in center diff, one of the reasons being it’s nearly possible to find anything in stock! Everybody be hording the heavy weights!! Take some braided some in my case some older Fireline, which is what they call a infused super line, making this fishing string that produces no stretch..walleye fishing is also one of my hobbies so I had this laying around. So I went around in two separate spots I like about two treads in from both sides and did three complete wraps. Starting it off with just a fuzz of hot glue just to hold the tension on the line while you get it snuggly wrapped, but I guarantee the blooning with die way down all and has seen to actually hold Up decently
I can’t imagine any additional stresses being added to any specific component of the center differential. If anything all the internal gears are probably under less stress. If I had to suppose one area where there might be a small amount of additional stress given with running silicon earplugs it would probably be to the main spur gear. I’ve been running these earplugs since the creation of this video. And having zero issues. One might wonder how long the earplugs themselves will last perhaps there might come a point where they break down and lose some of their structure
@@EastTactics Nice to hear that. I was skeptical because of videos showing diffs comparing to traxxas, where arrmas were poorly made in comparison. Thanks for the answer, your vids are really great! Just starting to play with my Kraton V5 :)
Been waiting to put these earplugs in the Kraton V5 but wasn't sure how it would act. As long as it doesn't damage other parts. And at least won't have to worry about it leaking either.
Did you have a leak over the past few weeks or months? Have areas around your out drives been particularly dirty or collecting dust that would be a sign. You may have lost all or most of your fluids which may have contributed to this happening. What ring are you running? What size pinion? Which differential went out? What weight differential fluid was in it? What particularly happened when it went out. Was it a pretty gnarly wreck? Previously have you gone in and bulletproof your differentials? Meaning you added extra shim inside the spider gears just to make sure everything is nice and tight?
@@EastTactics yea it definitely was all wet inside but the whole thing blew up inside the transmission. I'm thinking maybe the gears binded up. I have a sealed one coming tomorrow I will throw in
Give her a try let me know. Are you running stock components? On the V4 Kraton? What’s your current set up? Are you running 15 T and punch setting three? What differential fluid are you running in the center?
The moment the image appears. A link should also appear in the top right corner of your screen that takes you to the video I created on this topic. In the video you can check the description for a direct link to the custom differential pins. The link provided they are, takes you to the Exact webpage for the exact pin needed. Naturally I’m not gonna make you do all that. I’m just gonna drop it here because I am cool like that. www.mcmaster.com/2900A239 Now… Note this link will take you to order the 2.25 thick rod. It’s about 2 1/4 inches long. And you take a Dremel to cut it into 6 pins. Pro tip… I also ordered a 2.30 thick rod and it also works. Let me know if you have any questions. Here’s the link www.mcmaster.com/2900A241
Its a preferance thing, some poeple like the performance of 500k, some like 1mil (or silicon earplugs). It will work. now if your having issues with ballooning, this will definetely help with that.
Lol.. ya I love it. I was just watching that video LOL and I seriously need to go through and probably cut half of that out because Because it drags way too much in many places.
Temperature Thresholds Motor Ideal - 140° 60° C Hot - 150 - 160° 65.5° - 71.1° C Overheat - 165° 74°C ESC Ideal - 135° 57.2° C Hot - 140 - 150° 60° - 65.5° C Overheat - 155° 68.3°C
I am so fkn sick of TH-cam and their BS commercials happening all the time throughout each GD video. I literally made it to 47 seconds and had to watch 2 stupid commercials. And then just now at 2 mins another commercial. wtf?! Anyways. Great video. I am just venting. 😂
Hey, I’m glad you mentioned it. TH-cam automatically puts them in. However, I do have the ability to go in and edit them. So I’m gonna go into this video and cut a few of them out. Thanks for mentioning it.
Putting different numbers of shims behind the planet gears is so wrong they all need to be under the sun gears by the same amount if it needs to be tightened it's the sun gears needs more shim behind them. And earplugs are for 1/5th cars if you land that 1/8th heavy on the front axle that diff will explode no where for the load to go.
Doing the 1 shim, 2 shim behind the spider gears has been a long time industry standard for “bulletproofing” your diffs. Veterans like a rich Duper bashing RC dude 81 have stood behind this method for a long time as well. As far as bad landings and exploding diffs, you know I’ll be the first one to relay the performance Issues if I run into them. However between bulletproofing my differentials as well as McMaster harden steel pins. I’m pretty confident. Not to mention my rig sits a bit heavier than many. So it’s definitely considered more of a heavy class RC at this point with all the upgrades. Thanks for the heads up though, time will tell. Will let you know.
Running center is nowhere near as important as setting a proper mesh between the differential mean gear in the spiral input gear. But do what you feel is best.
Thx for the heads up. What pinion size you running? Also what rear diff fluid! Did you bulletproof your diff with the key shims or pick up hardened steel pins? Thx
@@EastTactics all of the above and a metal diff case! Currently running a mix of grease and earplug lol front about 2x heavier than rear. Maybe around 500k in front? Oh, and currently 20 tooth pinion
@@EastTactics I cant judge diff fluid. Never actually used it. But if I remember correctly factory center is 100k, so maybe 150k-200k rear. 20 tooth, works great with the katars but runs a bit hot on the backflip lp 4s tires might drop to 18. 20 tooth is fun on a set of felony rear hoons tho! Also running 3 game changer fans 😁
@@MrSpeeder420 Nice... I remember back in the day when I didnt know any better I slapped a 20t pinion in... Started breaking rear diff point and planetary gears right and left. Pinion size plays a huge roll in rear breakages too. I will keep you in the loop if these ear plugs starting doing the same... dropping down to the 13t (makes me feel pretty confident though. Thanks for chatting. Catch ya on the next Vid!!
I never considered that, have you noticed that some of your batteries do it while others don’t? What’s the defining difference between the two batteries?
Putting silicone earplugs inside of the differential (center differential) is a tactic where if implemented it ask closely like locking up the center diff. Doing so disperses the energy to the four tires more evenly as well as provides more of an immediate power/torque when punching it.
@@EastTactics hey man just wondering if over the past couple months since you have made this video if there is any update on how the ear plugs are working for you ? Diff issues ? Any other issues thinking about doing this to my Kraton exb thanks!
@@justinrez15 it’s been great, no diff issues, course I dropped it to the stock 12 tooth pinion so as far as stress goes, it’s been minimal. I dropping a new 1730kv motor and 8s ESC in, with a 20t pinion… that will definitely put some stress on em… will keep you updated. But ya… loving the immediate power the earplugs through down.
If you have no issues with your differential I would anticipate they last upwards towards a year, I might start questioning the functionality of the plugs if around that time it seems to not be providing the same amount of performance as I felt in the beginning. But I’ve heard no chatter about this being a thing that degrades quickly over time. My guess is most people have a different issue with a center differential that requires them to go in and replace a gear which in turn incorporates a new earplugs
Hmmm… perhaps this tactic might be more suited for the 1/10 scale. Jumping to the 1/5 scale, may Teeter, the power train stability versus power output from the motor into a troublesome dynamic. It’s good to know this. thank you for letting me know.
@@EastTactics I've never heard of snapping a Kraton 8s axle by utilising this mod. There has to be more to it. Doesn't make any sense whatsoever. Zilch, Zero, Nudda.
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Great improvement! It seems to be a very popular modification!
Just to clarify whats actually happening mechanically to whoever may be wondering or is interested; by adding the silicone plug to the differential, you are increasing the friction between the spider gears therefore reducing its ability to rotate at different rates front to back/left to right (which is its original purpose) you are in fact creating a limited slip differential or a locker, depending if its able to rotate at different rates at all, now we can understand why the front isnt balooning as much as before, because the front and rear axles are rotating at the same speed, where as before when the front end lifted, the differential directed all the power to the front axle as the rear had traction and the front didnt, just the nature of the open (not locked) differentials. If you do the same to the front/rear diffs, drifting or power sliding will be significantly more controllable :) keep in mind that the stress that the differential is no longer taking as a whole will now be transferred elsewhere, so expect to maintain or repair other areas due to this.
Happy bashing team! Btw I enjoy your videos!
Yea that makes sense.
I haven’t noticed anything particularly bad about this set up. Other than the fact the ballooning went away. Although I’m not enough of a racer or intricately adept enough to understand the differences in control, stability, drifting, etc. to really say whether or not I should consider going back to a more limited slip center differential. I do know a popular loadout is having 500 K in the center difference which may be a middle ground compromise to kind of get back. Some of those control features. One of the nice things about being a Basher is you’re not really all that concerned per se about racing or drifting, or making it around the next corner faster than the next guy. So it’s sort of a ignorance is Bliss situation when it comes to bashing. I probably could learn a ton if I actually got into the racing circuit with a smaller buggies. I could ultimately lend some great, no Howell and knowledge even in the bashing arena. Needless to say, I do appreciate your input and you mentioning that you like my videos. I’ve been sort of taking a break for the winter season but I plan on kicking back up again real soon. Thanks again.
I agree with noth of you but the ear plugs make it an entirely different running truck. I prefer my notorious like this instead of it just over powering the front wheels cause I dont do back flips much so no need for the front to have more power. Nice video man great example
Just had a thought...if silicone ear plugs work on RC does that mean silicone breast implants would work on real car differentials? Food for thought 🤔
That’s an obvious...YES
We just need to see how many silicone earplugs you can pack into a car differential.
Silicone breast implants work on men
Yeah it does. My ex wife had to return them to me in the divorce settlement, and I slapped them into my mid life crisis rrari’
14:28, "that's what she said" Sorry, that went through my head, just had to share. Good video, I just recently got a Typhon 6s and have been wanting to put the silicone ear plugs in the center diff. Glad you made such a good video on it.
Stock motor on an MMX8S does insane things. 15T pinion and a cooling fan. Does standing backflips very easily.
Well done man.. Great work!
Thx jimmy
I use 1M on my proline MT 4x4. It works really well. Never heard about silicone ear plugs. Good luck.
During your first cogging vid you asked for people to chime in on how they were all perform the standing back flip on their rig...im not sure if anyone actually helped you out in that department, but based on the reaction you gave @ 17:45 You finally got your standing back flips! :) Congrats!
lol... you are sooo right... been wanting it for ALONG time. You're on point!!
Yeah that was genuine
So silicon ear plugs in diff on my 6s was my first "mod" punch at 7 and it just decimated my rear diff outdrive. Lowered to 3 and it is so much better. Will still do a standing backflip if I want too but overall much more enjoyable. Being able to kick the rear sideways and it stay sideways is amazing. Favorite mod so far
Nice!
What size pinion you running?
@@EastTactics I was using the 15t with stock tires but since the badlands are taller I dropped down to a tekno 13t.
It’s substantial yes
I really like your videos. You are a great help to me. I've only been in the hobby for about a year and have learned and used alot of your teachings. Thank you for sharing your experience.
Awesome Troy, thanks for following me I really appreciate it
I’ve seen this a few times with Kevin talbot and me and my dad both recently got a sledge and the tires ballon so bad.but locking up the diffs with those earplugs really helped lot more controlable
Thanks so much for the video, my three week old Traxxas Sledge started cogging I’m going to try silicone plugs today!
Bump the EXC start-up power, it will eliminate the cogging. Not sure how different diff fluid or silicone earplugs will eliminate cogging as it doesn't affect any rolling resistance. Check your bearings. remove the pinion and see how smooth the sledge rolls. any friction will cause cogging. Especially warn bearings on the drive system or motor.
@@FarmerFpv was my stock Traxxas VXL-6 ESC, I switched to a Hobbywing Max 8 G2 with the sensored 4278SD motor and it drives like a dream.
Hey East Tactics, really appreciate your time and effort you put in vids thanks for the info.👍
Thanks Julian!
This has been working on my k6 very well
I guess I'm about to give the ear plugs a shot. I couldn't believe the 8s wouldnt really wheelie lol. And I can't believe yours is cogging so bad. I'm running 17 on my 6s v5 and I can basically crawl like a crawler if I need to.
Ive used super clean on my kraton exb. let it sit to hopefully get the crud off. well it ate away on my chassis and now theres blotches of superclean residue. its sold at harbor freight
Yeah the company reached out to me to see if I wanted to promote their products. And so I got a bunch of it for free. The product works great in certain used cases. But I couldn’t recommend it for RC stuff. Because for me as well it ate away at the paint.
I use Traxxas number 5040 20 million diff fluid I put it in the center diff of my Redcat vigilante what a difference now she does wheelies LOL the front wheel spin has dramatically reduced giving more power to the rear wheels
The guys in the comments acting like the host doesn’t know what he is talking about clearly just want to gripe. He obviously knows RC cars and this is an informative and really well done video.
Thanks for hav’n my back. I appreciate it 🤜🤛
Hi mate. I put the kraton 8s motor and esc in my blx 6s kraton and cogging gone 👍🤙running 23t pinion running 6s batteries. It's going great now 😷😁🤣👍😷. Running one million cst center differential oil
Thanks for the video! I wonder how the silicone earplug worked out?
So far I’m really liking the ear plugs. It’s really a nice no leak solution for throwing a lot of traction to all four tires. I’m going to continue rocking it with a new season and I will report on its continued usage
My kraton does good it can do a standing back flip being stock no clogging unless I’m doing wheelies I run proline belted trenchers.
I can't understand why this guy seems so surprised by this. The front tires balloon because when the front end comes off the ground, the front tires are able to spin faster than the rear. Putting in the ear plugs basically 'welds' the front and rear together. What he filmed is exactly what I would assume it would do.
Even on my RC stand w all four tires off the ground the front was over ballooning.
Regardless the silicon made for a WAY better experience.
What a great video. I took the link you provided and will be ordering some silicone earplugs!
Awesome! Glad you like it
Salute
I'm getting myself one 4 Christmas 🎄 😌
What I’ve found is when I had those giant proline badlands is that everything struggled on stock electronics…if you really want to bash backflips or copperhead II’s are soooo much easier on the drivetrain and you can run 15T no problem…I recently put max 6 and 1650kv and running 21T with copperhead II and max punch…so much easier to control with bigger pinion and smaller tires…I run 500k in the center diff and ballooning is minimal compared to prolines…im telling ya running dboots tires was definitely a game changer
Yeah I’ve got my dboots on standby. And what you’re saying makes perfect sense. I might actually toss a 15t pinion back on and see how she feels with my stock tires.
@@EastTactics can’t even tell you how frustrating being new to the hobby when I bought my V3 Kraton used 3 yrs ago…it was a painful process having to learn about shimming and diff fluids and cost me about $250 in pinion and ring gears…and replacing bulkheads with HR aluminum bulkheads helped as well but then the badlands ballon so bad I tried venting..braided fishing line thing…and even put savox servo in and still struggled to turn this tires..then I took a look at rcdude81 and rich duperbash to see what they run cuz they don’t seem to have issues with that and man it was night and day difference and can probably get by with those cheap servos now too but Savox is still running strong…btw I ran 16T with stock ESC and motor and ran great but ESC temps were jus a lil to high when running in grass or on hot day but running game changer fans you’d be golden on 16T for sure..fairly certain tires are a huge issue..and belted tires (IMO) just don’t make good bash tires
Here’s what’s interesting, it’s funny how the masculine side of us screams for the need to put 15 T 16 T17 T etc. on our vehicles when really the speed difference between the stock pinion and higher tooth alternatives is only about 5 or 10 mph faster at the top end. I mean how often are we really pushing our bashers past 50 miles an hour? I definitely am not into speed running and I find running straight down the road or in large flat Parks sort of boring. So really I don’t mind running at 12 tooth pinion for now while I sort of hang out until I get a better motor and ESC. And while the large pro line tires are definitelyHard on the stock motor and ESC. Running the stock 12 tooth pinion completely keeps them at bay. There’s a certain enjoyment that I get from riding these marshmallow tires because they do a great job with shock absorbtion etc. I do plan however to pick up the backflips LP, The next time I buy tires. And again in the not too distant future I plan on upgrading both my motor and my ESC. And at that point I’m going to absolutely toss and 20 T pinions are higher. For now I am absolutely floored that I was able to do a standing black flip with a 16 pound rig, on a 12 tooth pinion with silicone earplugs in the center differential.
You… Like me, or more of a veteran in the field and we have definitely gone around understanding the inns and outs of the vehicle. And what she can and cannot handle.
Thanks for following my channel. Always look forward to hearing your take on things
@@EastTactics well speed isn’t why I went with the max 6 combo though…it’s how much easier it is to control…standing backflips and small pinions are just so hard on the rear diff I cringe when I’d hit the throttle too hard when running smaller pinions and that sound of diffing out is terrible due to the amount of times I’ve replaced gears..lol…the torque is already crazy with stock electronics and 16T that I never had punch higher than 5..but with my new setup it’s so much easier to control and now have my punch maxed…those trucks weren’t designed or created for speed though they are awesome at it to me if you can control it better it’s less carnage 😂😂
Well said, I am actually looking forward to getting the upgrades. With this beautiful weather I got to get my RC out there on the battlefield. And 100 percent agree that your set up is superior to mine with the upgraded motor ESC and larger pinion.
Great job figuring it out 👍🏻
😎👍
Yea the stock diff pins always breaking definitely need stronger ones
I liked how it just passed by sliding on its roof but when it came back for a redemption it just cogged out lol. Redemption #2 was a redemption and a half lol.
Lol yeah!😝
did the silicone ear plugs on my dementor xp awhile back wow how it changed it so much smoother in jumps an just running around it's a good choice
I am getting a Dementor on Monday, just waiting for delivery, how many plugs did you use?
I am only using 4S too
@@dankeplace hello I can't remember but I think I only used one ear plug an it filled the center diff you will want to go ahead and order the metal chassis brace for it the plastic ones was the first to break on mine got mine from the team corally web site really helped and wasn't that much I haven't ran mine in awhile as my battery went bad and I blew a tire lol those big batteries are expensive
@@redneckrccrawlers9825 Yeah I got some new batteries and wont be bashing hard, will be getting center brace soon so all should be good, n cheers
Very informative. Where did you get the body post system? Thanks
th-cam.com/video/OcQRt1bpwA0/w-d-xo.html
My TEAM CORALLY RADIX 4 did the same..too much power goes to the front..put 1 million in the center diff....but felt the same..
Today i put Silicone Earplugs in it..hope to run it soon.
Let me know, should fix’r right up. I was blown away.
@@EastTactics I will..
Is it still holding up for you?
Oh… I myself love the earplugs in the center. Still Holden up great. Nice not to have to worry bout leaks too.
@@EastTactics Ok..thats great to hear...
I want to run Today..but its super windy here..and snowey.
Dang weather💨🍃
Good stuff, very well explained
I was thinking about about putting in a spool in the center diff
If you want immediate power, that will do it. Might be a tad better not to go full lock though.
Randy, How did I miss this vid 😂
💥😆💥
Earplugs will give you standing backflips all day long on stock system in the kraton. But its really hard on your diffs. Mine can do standing backflips with 1,000,000 cst as well just fyi
You’re not the first has mentioned that. I definitely will transition if I’m finding the same results. Thanks for the heads up
Awesome tip man! Quick question...do u still need to put diff fluid in the differential? I didn't see any diff fluid added...?
Nope, the silicone completely replaces it. 💪
@@EastTactics wow! No way! Would u recommend this for the rear and front diff's? Thanks for the response!
No only center. I do 20k rear, and 80k front. For my Kraton 6s
@@EastTactics I've been doing more research on the earplugs. I have a better understanding of it's purpose. Those numbers make sense. Thanks again, your the Man! Happy New Year! 🥳🎉
How much 'sprung' weight vs 'un-spung' weight did you add?
I’m not sure I follow your question. Can you reword it a different way?
What I can tell you is the springs that I currently run on my rig today are 1631. That’s the part number from MW components.com.
They are 10 pound springs. I run on all four.
Stock springs are 6 pounds approximately.
So there’s an additional 4 pounds of spring tension on each corner of the vehicle.
These heavy duty springs do require you to run 5000 CST Differential fluid inside of your shocks, and it is also recommended to have the M2C zero rebound shock caps.
Hope that answers your question
I would have liked to see you slow down on the silicone install. How much did you use? Where did you put it?
Sorry bout that... I only needed one ball of silicon from that pack. (keep in mind, size may very). I didnt put any silicon under the planetary gear... I first put that in... then flattened out a small nickel size piece (used a bottle cap to cut out the circle) and layer that in first. then put all the gears and shims in. Afterwards, I used the rest (of the same ball) to press into around the four open quadrants around the spider gears. making sure to leave enough space for the final planetary gear to sit in without issue. buttoned up and there ya go. Hope that helps.
@@EastTactics Thanks! Love your videos, very helpful! 👍
I went down on my factory punch settings to 1 and cogging was gone didn't really lose power either was surprised.
Nice, that will work
U only put those in the center diff ? Or in the rear and front diff to ?
Just in the center
@@EastTactics what about the front and rear diffs what’s the best oil you recommend 1/8 v5 6s blx notorious
Great video and great info.
Awesome. Do you have stock oil weights in the front and rear?
No I run 20 K in the rear and 80 K in the front
@@EastTactics How thick is 500k diff fluid - VS -earplugs ?
Brilliant video bro
thanks Sam, appreciate that!!
Being that this is about 6 months later from the release of your video, do you still use or recommend the silicone?
I do yes. I think it’s been great. Especially since my electronics are just the stock electronics. If I we’re running a higher end ESC, and maybe a 1600-1750kv motor, I’m might consider sticking with 200-500k center fluids.
Not because I think it’s better per say… more so just not needed, with my large tires.
@@EastTactics I received my Kraton 1/8 roller in the mail. Trying to learn all the things I should consider doing to it before I drive it. Checking the screws, the oils and diff setup etc. I still need to buy the electronics. Thank you for your reply.
Anytime!😎👍
So what is a good combo for a stock notorious. I’m an experienced driver and would like to kick the back end around as much as possible.
Thx
I myself really like how silicone earplugs in the center differential spreads the power more evenly to all four tires. With the notorious and the Outkast having a shorter body and a lot more prone for wheeling and flipping, I still think the spread of that power would be welcome. If I had a notorious, I would probably run a 16 tooth pinion, 20 K in the rear and 80 K in the front 500k in the center or silicone plugs.
Thx I shall give that a try
Hey East tactics, what body attachments do you use and do they work with a thicker reinforced body. I did rhino Hyde and it's relatively thick and hard to get pins to fit? Thanks my man.
Check out this video on the body mounts I use.
They work great, especially with my thicker Rhino lined body. Link to them in the description.
th-cam.com/video/OcQRt1bpwA0/w-d-xo.html
Can I used them on my arrma notorious 6s if I can where I can get them from
Check the description for links, either direct to that product or to my storefront, which will have it
I need a video to show me how to break the truck down and how to take the parts out and the new or old in
This series might be helpful for you
FULL TUNEUP | Arrma
th-cam.com/play/PL9UjUE_DygV_g3nT6p1QLE0xCRe2XKXvB.html
Awesome video very nice tutorial great job thumbs up 👍
Thanks my friend!!
Did the ear plugs reduce the speed at all?
No
Im set up with kraton Exb tricked out M2C hardware Castle 1650,Maxx6 esc & 20t pinion. I got it used but, still rips!
Question ❓ How thick is 500k diff fluid -vs- earplugs ? Thanks for the vid!
500k is prob half as thick. Earplugs are closer to 1M
500 is a popular choice. Both are great. If mitigating ballooning is a concern. Go earplugs
@@EastTactics I appreciate your reply & input 👊 thank you
I’m not understanding why you’re cogging on such a small pinion. I agree with upgrading the motor. Just dropped a castle 1717 1650kv in my Talion with no cogging on a 39T pinion... lower KV and big pinions are the way to go IMO.... subbed!
Agree 100%. I’m looking forward to upgrading my motor and ESC in the not too distant future. However for now, the cogging came about as my vehicle began to get heavier and heavier from upgrades. Originally at about 14 pounds my Cogging began with my 18 tooth pinion, so I dropped it to 16 and things were better. Now since my vehicle actually weighs around 16 pounds, The Coggin came back, especially after those trencher’s got put on. I was blown away when I was still able to do a standing backflip with the stock 12 tooth pinion. LOL.
I've been mixing simply green and denatured alcohol 50/50. Grease does not stand a chance and your rig will smell
Minty fresh 😬👍.
Nice work on the kraton! She's running strong 💪💯🤜🤛.
Sounds like your kids or kid likes the RC's.
Yes... just got him a Granite Voltage for his b-day. Vids to come. Pretty tuff for a 20mph rear wheel drive. Needs some upgrades though!!!
@@EastTactics same here just upgraded my 9 year old's brushed Granite to a max10/3200kv and typhon 3s arms and shafts wider now. Waiting on a big rock for my 14 year old from amain. I just bought a limitless and max 8 / 2000kv surpass.We Love this hobby!
Yeah baby!!
What’s the long term effects of doing this? Will it break anything over time.
Nothing really, because the amount of time that you can keep earplugs in your center differential is way longer than the amount of time that you should update flush out or replace classic differential fluid. depending on how much you get out and bash might be safe to just say replace the air plugs every six months. But honestly that’s just a guess I’ve never run into an issue yet. Course I don’t get out and bash as much as some people do.
@@EastTactics thanks bro. Love your vids. Been helping out huge with my new Kraton v5 6S.
Nice! Glad I can help👍
What brand name of silicone ear plugs are you using in the diff?
amzn.to/3wmr7di
@@EastTactics Many thanks!
This is fantastic. Great vid ET and now for me to “borrow” one of my wife’s silicone ear plugs she uses to block my snoring at night. 😂
Just want to ask this tho. Because you’ve put the solid silicone ear plug in, what is going to keep the shim under the crown pin from getting too hot and melting away the rubber o ring on the output drive cup shaft or even lubricating it and also the shims on the planetary gears. Just curious because the more fluid oils keeps that in check.
You know what... you make a great point. I’ve been seeing people use earplugs for a long time. And this issue has never been brought up. Hopefully it’s a non-issue. But now that you mention it I have noticed that people often times combine the earplugs with some of the Existing diff fluid. Maybe that’s why.
I also know they make an actual differential fluid that is about as thick as silicon earplugs. I think it’s 20 million.
Also had a guy respond to this video yesterday saying that he actually liked 10 million better than 20 million.
You really got me thinking, so I am going to ask around to some of the other veterans and see what they have to say.
Now aside from that, you may have noticed that I did use some green slime on the O-rings. But not sure how long that will last if there is a heat issue. Thanks for the heads up.
@@EastTactics I believe that silicone ear plugs are rated closer to 40mill. I asked this same question to AJJAM and asked if he leaves a bit of the old fluid in the case and he said yes he does. So once all the diff components are cleaned, drip some thick diff oil on them before placing them back into the diff case just to lube the shims then drop your ear plug into the center to do it’s magic. Hope this helps bud and keep up the great work you do.
😃👍🏼
With the silicone earplugs the gears are essentially locked so nothing inside the case turns in turn nothing heats up.
I think you make a very good point Ryan. And that actually leave me with quite a bit of confidence that there should be a non-issue with heat or degradation. While there is some spinning it is nowhere near anything like normal. So I’m sure everything is good.
@@EastTactics About time to open the diff and see what the silicone earplugs look like now that they've been run a bit. I'll wager the diff was never essentially locked and the earplugs are more fluid than we thought, just very viscous fluid.
I changed to max6 combo.. Cogging is gone.. I got 20t pinion.. The power compared to stock is night and day
Yes!!!
I have a 1730 KV and 8s spectrum I’m tossing in soon… can’t wait!!!
Can this method work with a 2s/3s motor 1/16th scale.
What’s your concern specifically? Are your tires ballooning too much. With smaller scale vehicles you want to be careful of not going to thick because it puts too much pressure on the motor.
If your tires are ballooning, and this is your frustration, then it certainly wouldn’t hurt to thicken up your fluids in your differentials (starting with a Center, but I have a hard time thinking that silicon ear plugs would do well. you might consider finding out what the thickness you currently have, and perhaps doubling it or some thing.
You might consider picking up better tires
We destroyed some aluminum stuff with SC. The degreaser is great but not for aluminum. The foam works great as a RC cleaner though.
Ya.. my vid dropping soon, actually doesn’t recommend it for RC. Unless massively deluted. Uploading now. Thx for commenting!!
Alright man I dropped comment when you were experimenting with the bed-liner for some durability huge time saver! But anyways just throwing it out there because it helped me on my arrrma
Mojave, I’m definitely gonna check these silicone ear plugs for fluid in center diff, one of the reasons being it’s nearly possible to find anything in stock! Everybody be hording the heavy weights!! Take some braided some in my case some older Fireline, which is what they call a infused super line, making this fishing string that produces no stretch..walleye fishing is also one of my hobbies so I had this laying around. So I went around in two separate spots I like about
two treads in from both sides and did three complete wraps. Starting it off with just a fuzz of hot glue just to hold the tension on the line while you get it snuggly wrapped, but I guarantee the blooning with die way down all and has seen to actually hold
Up decently
Link to those plugs?
amzn.to/3LVGYa0
Nice stuff thanks
What do you have in the other diffs please?
Rear 20k
Center silicon earplugs
Front 80k
I wonder how long can the central diff last with this tuning.
I can’t imagine any additional stresses being added to any specific component of the center differential. If anything all the internal gears are probably under less stress. If I had to suppose one area where there might be a small amount of additional stress given with running silicon earplugs it would probably be to the main spur gear.
I’ve been running these earplugs since the creation of this video. And having zero issues. One might wonder how long the earplugs themselves will last perhaps there might come a point where they break down and lose some of their structure
@@EastTactics Nice to hear that. I was skeptical because of videos showing diffs comparing to traxxas, where arrmas were poorly made in comparison. Thanks for the answer, your vids are really great! Just starting to play with my Kraton V5 :)
What wheel and tyres do you have ?
Proline trenchers
thanks for sharing!
Been waiting to put these earplugs in the Kraton V5 but wasn't sure how it would act. As long as it doesn't damage other parts. And at least won't have to worry about it leaking either.
Yes very true
Awesome
Thx lee
@@EastTactics I just blew up my differential any good way to prevent that from happening all the gears inside turned to dust lol
Did you have a leak over the past few weeks or months? Have areas around your out drives been particularly dirty or collecting dust that would be a sign. You may have lost all or most of your fluids which may have contributed to this happening.
What ring are you running? What size pinion? Which differential went out? What weight differential fluid was in it?
What particularly happened when it went out. Was it a pretty gnarly wreck?
Previously have you gone in and bulletproof your differentials? Meaning you added extra shim inside the spider gears just to make sure everything is nice and tight?
@@EastTactics yea it definitely was all wet inside but the whole thing blew up inside the transmission. I'm thinking maybe the gears binded up. I have a sealed one coming tomorrow I will throw in
How many ear plugs??
Like 1 and a half… maybe two. Not much
Thanks
Nice vid!💯👍🏻👊🏻👊🏻👊🏻
Thanks!!
I agree it's USA version
Where you get the threaded body holds?
th-cam.com/video/OcQRt1bpwA0/w-d-xo.html
Lol earplugs are for ears, and diff oil is for diffs ! Lmao
Lol
So you did 2 shims on one side and 1 shim on the other and no shims at all on the other gears?
No I did the 2 ... 1 combo on both cross sections. All 4 spider gears get at least one shim.
@@EastTactics ah I see. Thanks.
Nice vid!
Thanks Aaron!!!
Tires??
Proline trenchers
what punch level did you have it on when had the 15t pinion in.
I had 16t in, and I had it on punch level 6
I put the the 15t back in and drop the punch down to 3.
You did? Or that’s what you’re suggesting I do? It’s worth considering. Think I’d still be able to do a standing backflip?
Well my with badland on it do wheelie never try standing back flips.
Give her a try let me know. Are you running stock components? On the V4 Kraton?
What’s your current set up? Are you running 15 T and punch setting three? What differential fluid are you running in the center?
at 5.51 time which pin is the best? I want to create it too I link the video where do you explain it?
The moment the image appears. A link should also appear in the top right corner of your screen that takes you to the video I created on this topic.
In the video you can check the description for a direct link to the custom differential pins.
The link provided they are, takes you to the Exact webpage for the exact pin needed. Naturally I’m not gonna make you do all that. I’m just gonna drop it here because I am cool like that.
www.mcmaster.com/2900A239
Now… Note this link will take you to order the 2.25 thick rod. It’s about 2 1/4 inches long. And you take a Dremel to cut it into 6 pins.
Pro tip… I also ordered a 2.30 thick rod and it also works.
Let me know if you have any questions.
Here’s the link
www.mcmaster.com/2900A241
@@EastTactics thanksss
I have notorious 6s v5 blx would this method work
Its a preferance thing, some poeple like the performance of 500k, some like 1mil (or silicon earplugs). It will work.
now if your having issues with ballooning, this will definetely help with that.
@@EastTactics Love your work. Next mod, maybe get some belted tires ;)
Awesome description with everything you are using. I still have a question tho!😂 What is that red working mat called?
You’re gonna love this!
th-cam.com/video/jurXWNzWq0g/w-d-xo.html
This was one of my first vids.. so it’s uh... older. Lol
@@EastTactics ooh!😆😂👍👍👍 Looks comfy to work on👍
Lol.. ya I love it.
I was just watching that video LOL and I seriously need to go through and probably cut half of that out because Because it drags way too much in many places.
How hot is to hot for the motor now my trucks really heavy I hit 150 degrees it was 160on the end of the can 🤣
Temperature Thresholds
Motor
Ideal - 140° 60° C
Hot - 150 - 160° 65.5° - 71.1° C
Overheat - 165° 74°C
ESC
Ideal - 135° 57.2° C
Hot - 140 - 150° 60° - 65.5° C
Overheat - 155° 68.3°C
I am so fkn sick of TH-cam and their BS commercials happening all the time throughout each GD video. I literally made it to 47 seconds and had to watch 2 stupid commercials. And then just now at 2 mins another commercial. wtf?!
Anyways. Great video. I am just venting. 😂
Hey, I’m glad you mentioned it. TH-cam automatically puts them in. However, I do have the ability to go in and edit them. So I’m gonna go into this video and cut a few of them out. Thanks for mentioning it.
Putting different numbers of shims behind the planet gears is so wrong they all need to be under the sun gears by the same amount if it needs to be tightened it's the sun gears needs more shim behind them. And earplugs are for 1/5th cars if you land that 1/8th heavy on the front axle that diff will explode no where for the load to go.
Doing the 1 shim, 2 shim behind the spider gears has been a long time industry standard for “bulletproofing” your diffs.
Veterans like a rich Duper bashing RC dude 81 have stood behind this method for a long time as well.
As far as bad landings and exploding diffs, you know I’ll be the first one to relay the performance Issues if I run into them. However between bulletproofing my differentials as well as McMaster harden steel pins. I’m pretty confident. Not to mention my rig sits a bit heavier than many. So it’s definitely considered more of a heavy class RC at this point with all the upgrades.
Thanks for the heads up though, time will tell. Will let you know.
Thumbs up times 10
Thanks Dalton, means a lot to me
JUST OUT OF CURIOUSITY WHER E DO I FIND THE SCREW ON CAPS FOR THE BODY MY FRIEND?
That’s an excellent question, gotcha covered here:
th-cam.com/video/OcQRt1bpwA0/w-d-xo.html
Fitting 2 shims on one side in my opinion is not correct as the gear will be running of centre
Running center is nowhere near as important as setting a proper mesh between the differential mean gear in the spiral input gear. But do what you feel is best.
@@EastTactics 100% Correct. ;)
That cogging could be, punch too high or try higher c rated batteries
I like that tip!!! Thx
I’m sure it’s not my punch. I keep mine at 6.
But the c-rating. 🤔 never considered that 🤔
@@EastTactics no problem brotha we all in it together,knowledge should be free and true lol
Vent the tires and the crazy ballooning will go away.
Tires are/were vented
The esc is trying to pull power from batteries that the batteries cannot provide so it cuts out!
Interesting wonder what attribute of the battery is needed To upgrade to counter this?
@@EastTactics higher c rating batteries
Rear diff will suffer. Don't run a really thick fluid or u will grenade it. on my 4th in my talion lol
its epic tho! Wouldn't have an rc without them
Thx for the heads up.
What pinion size you running?
Also what rear diff fluid!
Did you bulletproof your diff with the key shims or pick up hardened steel pins?
Thx
@@EastTactics all of the above and a metal diff case! Currently running a mix of grease and earplug lol front about 2x heavier than rear. Maybe around 500k in front? Oh, and currently 20 tooth pinion
What pinion size on your motor.
So your running around 250k in the rear?
My current settup is 20k, silicon earplug, 80k.
back to front. 13t pinion
@@EastTactics I cant judge diff fluid. Never actually used it. But if I remember correctly factory center is 100k, so maybe 150k-200k rear. 20 tooth, works great with the katars but runs a bit hot on the backflip lp 4s tires might drop to 18. 20 tooth is fun on a set of felony rear hoons tho! Also running 3 game changer fans 😁
@@MrSpeeder420 Nice... I remember back in the day when I didnt know any better I slapped a 20t pinion in... Started breaking rear diff point and planetary gears right and left. Pinion size plays a huge roll in rear breakages too.
I will keep you in the loop if these ear plugs starting doing the same... dropping down to the 13t (makes me feel pretty confident though. Thanks for chatting. Catch ya on the next Vid!!
Better batteries will stop the cogging
I never considered that, have you noticed that some of your batteries do it while others don’t? What’s the defining difference between the two batteries?
Except that's not a 13T pinion. It's a 12T.
Yeah… I realized that shortly after I posted that video.
WTF does silicone freaking earplugs have to do with this video. AH!!!
Putting silicone earplugs inside of the differential (center differential) is a tactic where if implemented it ask closely like locking up the center diff. Doing so disperses the energy to the four tires more evenly as well as provides more of an immediate power/torque when punching it.
@@EastTactics hey man just wondering if over the past couple months since you have made this video if there is any update on how the ear plugs are working for you ? Diff issues ? Any other issues thinking about doing this to my Kraton exb thanks!
@@justinrez15 it’s been great, no diff issues, course I dropped it to the stock 12 tooth pinion so as far as stress goes, it’s been minimal. I dropping a new 1730kv motor and 8s ESC in, with a 20t pinion… that will definitely put some stress on em… will keep you updated. But ya… loving the immediate power the earplugs through down.
@@EastTactics Great vid thanks. How often do you have to replace the ear plugs please?
If you have no issues with your differential I would anticipate they last upwards towards a year, I might start questioning the functionality of the plugs if around that time it seems to not be providing the same amount of performance as I felt in the beginning. But I’ve heard no chatter about this being a thing that degrades quickly over time. My guess is most people have a different issue with a center differential that requires them to go in and replace a gear which in turn incorporates a new earplugs
This mod snaps axels non stop ,not recomended
Odd, I’ve never snapped an axel. what rig are you running, with what electronics setup?
Stock kraton 8s
Had several runs on the new setup then did the plug and started shaping axels on every outing
Hmmm… perhaps this tactic might be more suited for the 1/10 scale. Jumping to the 1/5 scale, may Teeter, the power train stability versus power output from the motor into a troublesome dynamic. It’s good to know this. thank you for letting me know.
@@EastTactics I've never heard of snapping a Kraton 8s axle by utilising this mod. There has to be more to it. Doesn't make any sense whatsoever. Zilch, Zero, Nudda.