Nice upgrades but only 1's I'd recommend out of the box is rpm/t-bone bumper and servo mount. The rest I would wait until it's broken then replace with upgrades, chances are you will never break stock parts as these things are tough
The Rc Collaborative Jeremy Hopkins Thank you for your video man. I found it very informative and fresh with the real-time footage and without all the over engineering you see with a lot of the how to videos out there. Also, the information and recommendations are top notch. You can tell you are passionate and have spent some time getting to know this hobby. I am new to this hobby and really appreciate the help. Thank you once again man.
You should be able to tighten the pillow balls with the cup holder bushing in place. It helps if you press down on the vehicle so that the arms are parallel to the work surface. Without this adjusting camber etc would be a pain.
Saved & sub'd! Great vid, Jeremy! The missus and I are getting an Outcast, Kraton or Notorious each soon (when the cash is saved lol!) and your video is the first in a long line-up of vids I'm going to save to help us make our choice. So far for me the Notorious is winning. Not for any reason other than it looks bad-ass! The missus thinks so, too! What are your thoughts on what model we should consider? We don't race. We just like to go to dirt jumps and skate parks. Top stuff, mate I look forward to checking out your other and up-coming vids. Cheers for now, Craig.
Such a helpful video mate. Well done . It explains a lot of questions I've had only owning a v4 kraton for a month now. Cheers for the info and discriptive video.
Thanks for your honesty. I'm looking to move up in class in rc and after watching I have to say why would I go with an Arrma looks like I'm going with Traxxas.
Ive done basically all of these mods including the Protek 370TBL on a Kraton I’m building with a M2C Goliath chassis. I’m finishing up the front end now and added HR bellcrank, HR lower arm mounts, and RPM arms.. It looks awesome. I hope it performs the same!
Very interesting. Points well taken. Just bought the latest Kraton V4. its my first ARRMA and I love it. I always tear down and rebuild to my liking and you show some issues I was wondering about. The V4 chassis seems to bend due to the new center bar reinforcement from tower to tower. I order aluminum chassis braces to hopefully eliminate.
Adrian i am going to buy a kraton V4. Where did you purchased the aluminum chassis? Do you think that changing front and rear chassis brace from plastic to aluminum is enough?
Well damn! This looks daunting. I'm getting my new KRATON 6S at the end of June 2020, and I have only a month to learn about all of this. I just want it to be as strong and stable as possible. Thanks for the vid. Just subbed your channel.
nice tips! next thing I'll try is a tower to tower brace. my towers keep bending because of too many harsh accidents. hope this will help a bit. never had a problem with stock bearings though. whenever a bolt or something came loose I retighten with threadlocker and it never happended again.
I don't really like the tower to tower brace idea because its going to make the towers bend even easier by not allowing flex. But I never aired my car very high. If you are going to really send it then I recommend instead doing a double chassis or an upgraded chassis. I forgot the name but on Facebook I have seen I think 8mm chassis which would not flex on big jumps
I always set mesh with the motor mount bolted to the chassis. The classic thin piece of paper always works. Tighten up but not fully, run the motor slowly and listen, should be smooth, once done tighten fully. It is recommended to have two 3S batteries than one 6S.... WHY? Because the center cells suffer the most, the life of a 6S is shorter than two 3S. The resistance is not much, how you know, I have run them and the connectors stay cool all the time
It's a known fact that the longer the wires and the more connectors you have that increases resistance although that doesn't mean that it's going to cause connectors to get hot or anything. I think the biggest reason to go single battery in my opinion is to not have to charge 2 batteries for one run most people have a duo charger or even a single so you could charge 2 6s batteries and get more charging done opposed to having 4 batteries to equal my 2 But in the end it's all preference bro im not here to make anyone do it my way it's just my opinion. I hope that makes sense
Threadlocker works great on this, not all plastic is going to be affected by it and whatever the hubs are made of, I think possibly abs plastic, isn't affected at all. I do this all the time. Ca glue. I wouldn't want to fight with that. Hot racing sells delrin nuts with o rings on them and they don't back out. You can use them on stock hubs. Buy them here amzn.to/2V9O4xw
Agreed for all arrma is well built for perfect condition bashing. But a slip up always ends bad for these trucks. Just bought a notorious. And the bumper is f’d up like you said. The wheel hubs same problem they jump back and fall out the back constantly and the braces that hold the wheelie bar is week. Also the wheelie bar and rear support arm is attached to rear diff so yeah all of your upgrades are a must. Some you can change as you break but you risk smashing a arms and expensive diff parts and dies for the hardware strip from bashing
Agreed and i messed up stripped grub screw to remove the axle now i have order alot parts just change hubs so just using pillar balls for now like you said at least not backing out
Don't have to pull motor out to set the mesh on the pinion. Also you can get the jump plug for those who are scared to cut up anything. Other then than I agree I know we all have opinions different thing work for others. Good video tho👍🏿👍🏿
I need to replace my stock bearings, they are gritty. Didn’t take long either. It would be nice to have the aluminum diff housing and not have to shim so much. I see you balance your wheels it helps too
my plan was to buy the Kraton 6s, but now i don´t know.....everybody says it´s built like a tank, but apparantly you should upgrade 50% of the car before you even drive. I know parts get worn down, but according to this video it looks like the Kraton is built with bad quality parts that breaks on the first run!
@@therccollaborative9524 most likely i will buy it, got that "must have" feeling :) I have saved your video, and notet down all recomended upgrades, and will most likely upgrade/swop out parts as they break (or my wallet/girlfriend approves lol). subbed btw, good to have some experienced builders/racers to lean on when FUBAR the kraton down the line :)
@@Brendjord I agree. Great video to prep the Kraton. I'm getting one in a month, and I'm nervous as hell about what to do, etc. Saved this video and watching it repeatedly so I know enough about what I will need to do to ensure longevity and consistent playability.
What do you use to secure the steering rod end balls to the steering rack? The original balls are much larger and have a wider footprint? The traxxas balls are smaller without the flange? Thanks for putting this together it's very helpful.
All that and you didnt upgrade the shock towers and plastic tower braces? have you had any issues with the chassis bending with the stock plastic ones?
I forgot to mention, "Mugen Seiki Diff Washers Part# muge0206" which are needed for the differentials for a better mesh. Also if you run Aluminum diff cups without the large shim (in this kit) between the pin and cup, the steel pin will eat up the aluminum cup, eat o rings non stop, and the cup is ruined.
I know I am a bit late to the party, but I have a question. What weight diff oil did you use for center, front and rear? I did not see it in your list or hear it in the video. I had my V4 at the beach and it got submerged several times in salt water. Even though you rinse and rinse it still does bad things. So I want to just take mine apart and go through everything to make sure anything that is contaminated gets cleaned out and rebuilt. Thanks for the research and posting this video.
If you did not immediately clean your bearings I can assure you they are likely ruined For bashing I do 80k front and rear, 500k middle. Team associated
So to toughen up the steering ends, with the RPM ends use ONLY the metal ball ends from the Traxxas 1942 Rod End set??... Only the metal ends from that pack? Thanks
Bit late to the party here but what are you using to keep the front arm pins in with the RPM bumper? I've got RPM bumper on mine. I broke off and lost the factory one. I didn't get anything with my RPM bumper to hold the pins in. Tried bodging a tin can lid over it but it didn't work. I took the pin holder off the back and put it on the front but lost that now. the tin lid is still holding up on the back though. I've just ordered a factory bumper just for the part that holds the pins in
nic video, a lot of good info there it think, i just bought my friends kraton 6s what kind of tips do you have for a first time 18th scale owner. iu own a few 10ths but not as big as this monster :D also idk if have content covering this, i was wondering if you can make a video about diff maintenance.
Hey bro just found your channel I wish I would have seen this video before I ordered my new arrma notorious yesterday. ! I'm glad I saw this though heading to eBay now to get upgrades before I even drive it. Damn I should have just gotten the redcat TR-MT8e be6! I almost got that instead now I think I should have it has 6mm shafts everything bigger than arrma but I cheaped out saved 100 bucks and got the arrma now I gotta spend another five hundred bucks on parts to make the arrma drive able
No you don't I have the outcast all it really needs is good sealed bearings and a better servo its a tank trust me get on the arrma forum lots of useful info for upgrades that don't cost much
@@slicktmi hey thanks bro I ordered the hot racing servo mount because I know the stock mount is crap I've seen it wobble and I did order a set of fast Eddie's bearings and the hot racing chassis braces. And tekno pinion gears. Do you think I can get away with not shimming the diffs? I'm not like a crazy basher like Rich duperbash just backyard stuff
@@theirishaxe9405 honestly i never needed to shim inside the diffs ive done it once but it was too tight the new v3 arrmas tightened up tolerances inside the diffs the only thing i would shim is the diff assembly in the bulkhead aka ring gear and pinion with the tekno shims tkr1222 put like 1 or 2 on the same side as the stock shim (gear side bearing )
I used another stock like mount from the rear, I ground off the plastic square that fits into the rear notch to make it fit the front and it caps off the pins like the rear does
It's a rear a arm mount, a factory kraton one. I ground off part of the plastic on it for it to fit. You can also use a typhon bumper which is smaller than kraton
Holy smokes that servo you linked is 170$!! Is this a basher or a top of the line race buggy!?? Seems a little bit excessive no? Great video. Alot of great info here. Much appreciated. Edit: wait you were building a race buggy.....lol my bad
I went to put on the RPM bumper on my V4 Kraton and you said to remove the stock bumper? But there is nothing that can hold in the pins from coming out of the red brace. My bumper on the V4 looks much bigger than the one you took off yours?
Hi, thanks a lot for your video. I just bought a kraton V3 and started to upgrade it inspired by your video. I bought the Rpm rod ends. (Long and Short) and the Traxxas metal Balls. But I have problems Mounting the stuff. The Short rod ends for the shocks do not seem to fit into the shock caps (AR330338) They are to big by diameter. How did you solve this? Or am I doing something wrong? I hope you understand my question. Thanks a lot for your help! Greetings from Germany!
Hi Jeremy, thanks for your reply. What I meant is the plate of the shocks, that keeps the spring in place. It is placed as the end point of the shock and the connection between spring and rod end. (The black round plate with the gap) the rod end should go inside a bit to keep it in place.
Love your video very very informative. I'm pretty new to this hobby, I am deff buying a kraton 6s, my question for you is do you recommend buying a new 1 stock. Or should I purchase a lightly used with with many upgrades already , such as hubs, bearings, servo , spektrum high end radio, front bumper , rear bumper just to name some. Thanks any input Is greatly appreciated
@@therccollaborative9524 was thinking the same thing. It even has the tekno shock towers front and rear you recommended. Going to go check it out asap. Thansk for the feedback I'm quite sure I will be watching loads more vids from you. Very helpful
www.google.com/search?q=hot+racing+-+aluminum+gearbox+case+arrma+all+aluminum&safe=off&source=lnms&tbm=shop&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjR6aSNns_eAhWFjVkKHWDpBuQQ_AUIEygB&biw=1097&bih=558#spd=1986290476549618201i found it thanks never knew they made that til now
Hey buddy they are sold separate. www.amainhobbies.com/hot-racing-arrma-kraton-aluminum-center-sway-bar-mounts-black-hraaon311m01/p679125 rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F263923156032
I have had horrible luck with SMC lipos and highly recommend staying away from them. I don't know what you are doing to your kraton but I beat the hell out of my v2 kraton and didn't have nearly this many problems with mine.
I know this an older vid. I’m trying to find better steering rod link ends for my V3 Kraton. I looked at the RPM ones you show, but figured they were to small. So now i see you used the Traxxas metal ball. Does that make it work well? The stock ones aren’t plastic like you said, and are quite large metal balls.The Traxxas ones seem small?
That bumper is the only rpm part I don't like it is not a necessary part. Everyone should build up their rc to their specifications. That is part of the fun and learning process.
@@ulisesh2727 look under videos please im trying to get you a link but having trouble. Essentially it installs just like the stock one. You have 4x 2mm screws holding servo mount on 4x screws holding servo to the mount The servo connects to slot number 1 on your receiver no matter which brand receiver you have.
an x maxx needs upgrades too, nothing is perfect otherwise these would be 1000$ cars... see my other video with top 5 upgrades and those are the things i would do right off the bat, its not that bad
Wth no this guy installed so many unnecessary upgrades. The Kraton handles much better out of the box than an xmaxx and is just about as tough, if not tougher. The only upgrade you really need is a front bumper.
I've had my V4 Kraton for 6wks and today the front CVD popped out of the outdrive. Should I remove the pillow ball shims from the upper arms AND the spacers from the bottom arms and screw all of them in all the way?
I have thought for a long time that if you want a heavily upgraded Kraton, with all the best stuff... you should just order all of the parts and build one. You are throwing away like 75% of the car to do it all and turn it into the X-Maxx competitor that it can be with all of the upgrades. There is no reason to even buy the car to begin with, almost all of it would get thrown away.
One big thing right off is that the cost of the X-maxx is $1,100 and the Arrma is $540 So you can upgrade a little at a time as your budget allows. Dont get me wrong the X-Maxx is nice but I like doing my upgrades a little at a time
@@RT10Viperman I am kind of new to RC, I got a Kraton 4S about 2 years ago and now I also have a Typhon 3S and Axial Deadbolt. I'm not a collector, I just want a few cars for capability. The only other cars I am ever going to want are a 2S dragster... and then my "biggest and best basher" that I spend lots of money on and give it all the best parts. It will be a while before I can afford to get it... but I am completely 50/50 torn between getting an X-Maxx and upgrading it, or just buying all of the best parts there are for a Kraton 6S... M2C stuff, etc... and just building my own Kraton 6S from scratch because there is no reason to by a Kraton to begin with if you want all the upgrades... all the upgrades is almost the entire car.
Hey there bro I have a kraton blx 185 6s I looked for the servo you said and it’s out of stock which other servo do you recommend also pinion and spur gear do you recommend for bashing???
The protek 370tbl is in stock at amain.com Another option is savox 1210sg which that link is in the description For pinion gear use 14T and stock spur gear. That's a safe bet
@@cityofsinrc7028 its hard to recommend tires for the kraton with 6s the isn't really anything bullet proof for bashing. I used and liked the stock tires that come on the v1 thru v3. Proline makes belted trenchers, src sells belted tires but they aren't good off road. Many people like the stock outcast tires or their equivalent proline badlands. I would just run the stock tires, balance them and vent the tire and put tape over the holes in the wheels
Should I go for a kraton as my first rc car and upgrade it like this, or go with a team associated rc8t3.1e and mount some protection for bashing. And if I'm going to rebuild half of the car anyway, maybe better to start from building a kit and learn everything about the car right from the start?
The associated is for racing and while you could bash it I think the kraton will be more durable and come with electronics rtr. If you wanted to race buy a mugen mbx7tr or new mbx8t Either way I would not be considering an associated car at all either mugen or kraton Depends on what you want to do with it.
Sweet video thank you. On the pillow balls you can tighten both the cap and the ball with everything assembled even with the tire on the cap is hallow so you can fit a wrench through it to get to the ball
Thanks for this. I watched this video one time when I got my first Arrma... a Kraton V3. I was like... no way will mine need most of these upgrades. That's way too much money. This was like three weeks ago. THEN I BOUGHT A 6s BATTERY and the problems you talk about suddenly appeared :) I promptly lost a front carrier hex nut. Actually I saw it so just picked it up. Didn't know about the plastic pivot ball cup... luckily I found that 2 days later. I ordered the Hot Racing Delkin hex nuts. My T-Bone bumper seems to sit high and push the body shell up... I'm not sure why. I removed the Kraton bumper beforehand. I will be looking more into this but if you have an idea why it happened let me know. Today... I suddenly had drivetrain issues. What was it? ... the pivot balls had backed out (from the same arm the hex nut fell out of), the driveshaft came out and got stuck. EXACTLY as you mentioned. It actually gouged the lower A-arm. AND... part AR330379 broke where the upper A-arm meets it. I'm looking into a metal replacement for that part, hopefully from Amain because shipping to Japan is dirt cheap compared to Voltage and other small makers. I also ordered the Hot Racing servo mount. I'll be ordering Fast Eddy bearings I think. Other than that I'll be waiting until other parts break or I feel like spending more money to upgrade. Thanks again.
Thanks for watching and your support! Thank you for commenting this will help other people! No one believes me when they watch this video. 6s is very very harsh on these cars.
I was surprised at how dead on you were about the hex nut and pivot balls backing out. Other things you mention make sense. The aluminum differential case reducing need for shimming is interesting. For now it will have to be "break something then upgrade". Balancing costs with ability and necessity :)
@@therccollaborative9524 lol exactly i have outcast havent broke much but ik bc i take easy ive been practicing with granite alot also ppl think its un fair to have upgrade but arrma giving you a rocket that built pretty well for out the box if going drive like us going bash 6s going be wrenching so just letting them know before it breaks bc you been there thank you i appreciate 😁👍
Thanks for stopping to comment! I totally understand about the cost, BEFORE ever ordering my Kraton I spent 2 weeks researching youtube and forums to find the weak areas and find out about the platform. I personally had allot more breakages and failures than others have reported, so everyone might have a different experience with their vehicle and driving styles, with that said anyone can pick and chose any mod they want to use in case they have similar issues. I spent allot of time waiting on Warranty parts and I had to take over and just bullet proof it. I had allot of other mods not mentioned, but these are the ones I feel that will make life easier and get you down the road further.
Nice upgrades mate if your into racing heavily like you are 👍i understand some of the upgrades are useful 👍 so thanks for the links and sharing that information But on looking on other videos this Beast has a great reputation for being hard as nails and a Outstanding Rc Basher Truck, so I carnt understand why I would spend nearly $450 or More on upgrades to make it stronger, you said you practice upto 13 hours a day with this so obviously things are going wear out and break 🤔 Some items you were saying it is a must have, there are loads of videos on this V3 Kraton saying it's Amazing out the Box , But the likes of me and other people who want to get one just for bashing about will this be ok to buy 😯 because I might as well save up for a X-Maxx, or is this just solely because you are a racer, 😜 it's going to take me 5 months to save up for this kraton so now am thinking is it worth it after seeing your video, hope you understand where am coming from my freind 😀
Hey buddy I really understand! The kraton is amazing it is definatly a great starting point over everything else available. With that said it is just a starting point, nothing is ever built perfect. Also I'm not forcing anyone to listen or buy the upgrades they are merely suggestions that I found to improve the car further. Not everyone is into modding. Also it doesn't sound like you currently own one so please re evaluate the suggestions after you actually run one and find issues on your own. When you do you may kindly refer to my links to the upgrades that which will improve your truck. I didn't make this list for my health or fun, I had issues and these were my solutions and I am just trying to help. Thanks for watching! Also have you seen the videos of the xmaxx breaking in half lol your not buying quality there in my opinion. One more food for thought bashing is 1000% more intense then racing on the car as far as wear. No one is bending chassis and sending it at the track. We run 4s to race unlike 6s which people bash on and that makes a massive difference I have had alot of responses like yours from people because my large list. This was meant to be a one stop shop of information for arrma users with a compilation of all the upgrades I have learned. With that in mind I will do a follow up video of the top 5 things I would do if you could only do 5.
Yes Jeremy I don't own one yet and you are going to be my go to guy when I get one, just thought you would have to buy all them upgrades to make it good lol 😜 I do appreciate you getting back to me my friend 👍 hopefully get one before the Summer, fingers crossed mate, thanks for all the links to 👍😀👍
Tony talk to me buddy you know how my cars are set up! Unlike anything else anyone has!! Especially my 2,000 dollar 8S powered Talion! 😂😂😂 nice to hear you considering an Xmaxx let me know what questions you have buddy!! BOOM 👊🔥🔥
The Rc Collaborative Jeremy Hopkins I own both Arrma and Traxxas cars no the Xmaxx is not junk! After spending quite a bit of money on my Talion it can now keep up with the Xmaxx as far as durability and driveability! Total nonsense! Come look at my cars youll neber see an Arrma built up like mine! Ill put it to you this way, you can buy three Kratons to get your car to my level - and now it can go where the Xmaxx can 😂😂😂😂 STOCK Xmaxx!! thats now modded as well but another story with that truck! ✌️👊👍
Im a truck driver ordered this truck to play with on days off for a guy like me is any of this nessesary i dont see me abusing this at a truck stop or at flat field just curious thx
I been out of the hobby for ping time but that what you had in your hand is a dog bone the mip is cvd and I’m not being a ass I like your video just saying the stock ones are dog bones the mip are CVD’s
A lot of good info but you must launch your cars a 100 ft in the air to have that much repairs. I have replaced like 2 small parts in a year and I play hard with it.
Lol don't spend the big bucks he says, a chassis is only about 100 bucks The new kraton has tower to tower brace to help with chassis flex. Stock towers do suck but only buy 7075 aluminum towers not 6061
The Rc Collaborative Jeremy Hopkins wrong again! Go watch Aussie RC playground! The tower to tower brace sucks doesnt do a dam thing to help with the chassis flexing!! You missed the poing of my comment! It flew wayyyy over your head!! 😂😂😂😂😂 Let me explain it for you genius - yes you need to spend big bucks!! Capiche? 🤣🤣🤣 The tower to tower brace is a waste! Upgrade your chassis and towers folks! The other stuff is a waste of your money! My 8S powered - Xmaxx wheels Arrma Talion 8S says so!! 😂😂 and then you can say it yes it is now as good or better, stronger than a bone stock Xmaxx! I own both cars 😂😂 But an out of the box Kraton better than an Xmaxx? dont know what you are smoking but send some of that ganja my way!! I need some hallucinogens every now and then!!
I really like the kraton 4-s but it’s too expensive after all the upgrades. Makes no sense to build such a beast with so many weak parts. Your looking at 1000$ plus after upgrades. Hmm the exb seems the way to go.
5:52 you dont need to it take anything off at all to tighten a pillow ball, stock or otherwise. thats why they used a giant hex for the caps and a flow through design with a smaller hex for the pillow ball. 8:46 you dont need to even loosen any motor mounts to change a pinion. 9:00 WTF are you talking about, "the only proper way to set the mesh"????? there is absolutely zero reason you cant loosen the motor mount slide it to the proper position and check mesh by either holding the pinion or spur and rocking the other back and forth. 10:43 WTF are you doing to your cars? could it be taking the whole fucking diff and motor mount assembly out to set the mesh isnt the "proper way" to set mesh? hmmm. 11:29 theres plenty of reasons to buy 2 3s batteries vs 1 6s. the biggest reason is if 1 cell in your 6s pack goes bad there goes a $150 battery, its cheaper when it happens to a 3s. another reason might be because a 3s battery could be used in more vehicles. 11:48 again worried about adding resistance. you using xt90s for fucks sake. 12:35 yea, fuck front end geometry who needs that. it only comes with spacers on top so you would be changer camber by a lot. 13:05 and thats how i was telling you earlier how you dont need to take them off.
Don't understand. For the price you pay and all the things we have to change to be stronger it's a shame, shame for arrma about this. Thanks a lot for your upgrades.
Wow ppl are never happy you must be a young fella these by far most duable fastest rcs ever out of the box we would spend weeks building , and smallest things would cause problems and you would be back on the bench nitro buggys were tough and get laps , races ect but talking 1000 20 30 yrs ago and you wouldnt send it way you woukd outcast because all hard work time and money even if coukd survived good landings
Even after 450 upgrades he will still wear and break parts for him to feel he needs hes putting alot time racing and bashing and just wants to improve weaker points remember can always go faster and faster you go more stuff breaks as enthusiasts you want use the best parts available dosent mean original parts are bad ive owned my outcast and 2 other arrmas only broke couple small parts i bought hotracing hubs bc i lost pillow nuts and figured get better ones and have spares nice have parts on hand imo once im rcing alot otherwise get frustrated like now waiting for parts so sticking arrmas alot parts compatible so i cam bash on. 👍💪💪💪💪👍👍
Nice upgrades but only 1's I'd recommend out of the box is rpm/t-bone bumper and servo mount. The rest I would wait until it's broken then replace with upgrades, chances are you will never break stock parts as these things are tough
correct !
WHERE IS THE LINK FOR THE SERVO MOUNT ?
I have broken every composite part on my 2 kratons more than once so this isn't true
@@petertimmermans7019 you must be a shocking driver
No your wrong. This thing breaks all the time.
The Rc Collaborative Jeremy Hopkins Thank you for your video man. I found it very informative and fresh with the real-time footage and without all the over engineering you see with a lot of the how to videos out there. Also, the information and recommendations are top notch. You can tell you are passionate and have spent some time getting to know this hobby. I am new to this hobby and really appreciate the help. Thank you once again man.
Wow, Finally someone with real knowhow . THANKS wil be back
@Tucker Russell Glad it worked out!!!
@Jerrod Dunsing Hahahaha
I just ordered my kraton yesterday! Will be looking at ur parts list. Very good info.
You should be able to tighten the pillow balls with the cup holder bushing in place. It helps if you press down on the vehicle so that the arms are parallel to the work surface. Without this adjusting camber etc would be a pain.
Saved & sub'd!
Great vid, Jeremy! The missus and I are getting an Outcast, Kraton or Notorious each soon (when the cash is saved lol!) and your video is the first in a long line-up of vids I'm going to save to help us make our choice. So far for me the Notorious is winning. Not for any reason other than it looks bad-ass! The missus thinks so, too! What are your thoughts on what model we should consider?
We don't race. We just like to go to dirt jumps and skate parks.
Top stuff, mate I look forward to checking out your other and up-coming vids.
Cheers for now,
Craig.
Such a helpful video mate. Well done . It explains a lot of questions I've had only owning a v4 kraton for a month now. Cheers for the info and discriptive video.
Thanks for your honesty. I'm looking to move up in class in rc and after watching I have to say why would I go with an Arrma looks like I'm going with Traxxas.
Ive done basically all of these mods including the Protek 370TBL on a Kraton I’m building with a M2C Goliath chassis. I’m finishing up the front end now and added HR bellcrank, HR lower arm mounts, and RPM arms.. It looks awesome. I hope it performs the same!
Thank you for the list. You are very descriptive. Good stuff!! Bearings, bearings, bearings!!
no problem! yeah I think bearings are important, not good if they fall apart on you
Very interesting. Points well taken. Just bought the latest Kraton V4. its my first ARRMA and I love it. I always tear down and rebuild to my liking and you show some issues I was wondering about. The V4 chassis seems to bend due to the new center bar reinforcement from tower to tower. I order aluminum chassis braces to hopefully eliminate.
I have been telling people tower to tower braces are bad before the v4 came out. Notice it's not one of my recommendations
Adrian i am going to buy a kraton V4. Where did you purchased the aluminum chassis? Do you think that changing front and rear chassis brace from plastic to aluminum is enough?
Well damn! This looks daunting.
I'm getting my new KRATON 6S at the end of June 2020, and I have only a month to learn about all of this. I just want it to be as strong and stable as possible.
Thanks for the vid. Just subbed your channel.
nice tips!
next thing I'll try is a tower to tower brace. my towers keep bending because of too many harsh accidents. hope this will help a bit. never had a problem with stock bearings though. whenever a bolt or something came loose I retighten with threadlocker and it never happended again.
I don't really like the tower to tower brace idea because its going to make the towers bend even easier by not allowing flex. But I never aired my car very high. If you are going to really send it then I recommend instead doing a double chassis or an upgraded chassis. I forgot the name but on Facebook I have seen I think 8mm chassis which would not flex on big jumps
I always set mesh with the motor mount bolted to the chassis. The classic thin piece of paper always works. Tighten up but not fully, run the motor slowly and listen, should be smooth, once done tighten fully.
It is recommended to have two 3S batteries than one 6S.... WHY?
Because the center cells suffer the most, the life of a 6S is shorter than two 3S. The resistance is not much, how you know, I have run them and the connectors stay cool all the time
It's a known fact that the longer the wires and the more connectors you have that increases resistance although that doesn't mean that it's going to cause connectors to get hot or anything.
I think the biggest reason to go single battery in my opinion is to not have to charge 2 batteries for one run most people have a duo charger or even a single so you could charge 2 6s batteries and get more charging done opposed to having 4 batteries to equal my 2
But in the end it's all preference bro im not here to make anyone do it my way it's just my opinion. I hope that makes sense
Very informative. You pointed out a few things that I didn't think about.
I use the stock front pivot balls.. a 2mm driver fits over that 5mm hex hole...no need to remove the pivot ball caps
some good info in the video, but fyi, threadlocker does not play nice with plastics, a little CA would be a better option
Threadlocker works great on this, not all plastic is going to be affected by it and whatever the hubs are made of, I think possibly abs plastic, isn't affected at all. I do this all the time.
Ca glue. I wouldn't want to fight with that.
Hot racing sells delrin nuts with o rings on them and they don't back out. You can use them on stock hubs.
Buy them here amzn.to/2V9O4xw
@@therccollaborative9524 great thanks!
Agreed for all arrma is well built for perfect condition bashing. But a slip up always ends bad for these trucks. Just bought a notorious. And the bumper is f’d up like you said. The wheel hubs same problem they jump back and fall out the back constantly and the braces that hold the wheelie bar is week. Also the wheelie bar and rear support arm is attached to rear diff so yeah all of your upgrades are a must. Some you can change as you break but you risk smashing a arms and expensive diff parts and dies for the hardware strip from bashing
Thank you for testing and finding out yourself unlike allot of people flaming me for trying to share info lol, please sub if you haven't
Agreed and i messed up stripped grub screw to remove the axle now i have order alot parts just change hubs so just using pillar balls for now like you said at least not backing out
Don't have to pull motor out to set the mesh on the pinion. Also you can get the jump plug for those who are scared to cut up anything. Other then than I agree I know we all have opinions different thing work for others. Good video tho👍🏿👍🏿
I bent the hinge pin and an axle on the right rear with out jumping or hitting anything. Crashed cruising around in the grass at a park.
I need to replace my stock bearings, they are gritty. Didn’t take long either. It would be nice to have the aluminum diff housing and not have to shim so much. I see you balance your wheels it helps too
Yeah the larger the tire the more it needs to be balanced
I just ordered the kraton yesterday, can’t wait! Thanks for this video. I’ll def make these upgrades.
awesome if you have any questions ill be glad to help.
Good stuff.
Did you have any chance to measure the additional weight of the upgrades?
No sorry I haven't. Thanks for watching though
my plan was to buy the Kraton 6s, but now i don´t know.....everybody says it´s built like a tank, but apparantly you should upgrade 50% of the car before you even drive. I know parts get worn down, but according to this video it looks like the Kraton is built with bad quality parts that breaks on the first run!
It's not really like that this was supposed to be a reference list of the upgrades you can do.
@@therccollaborative9524 most likely i will buy it, got that "must have" feeling :) I have saved your video, and notet down all recomended upgrades, and will most likely upgrade/swop out parts as they break (or my wallet/girlfriend approves lol). subbed btw, good to have some experienced builders/racers to lean on when FUBAR the kraton down the line :)
@@Brendjord I will be glad to help you. Seriously though get a servo right away or have one in standby
@@Brendjord I agree. Great video to prep the Kraton. I'm getting one in a month, and I'm nervous as hell about what to do, etc. Saved this video and watching it repeatedly so I know enough about what I will need to do to ensure longevity and consistent playability.
@@therccollaborative9524 What specific servo do you recommend, for what exactly, and why (total noob asking).
What do you use to secure the steering rod end balls to the steering rack? The original balls are much larger and have a wider footprint? The traxxas balls are smaller without the flange?
Thanks for putting this together it's very helpful.
I am wondering the same question..can you help?
Where do yall get these problems from with the hubs and bearings. I've had no problems
All that and you didnt upgrade the shock towers and plastic tower braces? have you had any issues with the chassis bending with the stock plastic ones?
No issues but I don't send it 50ft in the air.
I forgot to mention, "Mugen Seiki Diff Washers Part# muge0206" which are needed for the differentials for a better mesh. Also if you run Aluminum diff cups without the large shim (in this kit) between the pin and cup, the steel pin will eat up the aluminum cup, eat o rings non stop, and the cup is ruined.
I know I am a bit late to the party, but I have a question. What weight diff oil did you use for center, front and rear? I did not see it in your list or hear it in the video. I had my V4 at the beach and it got submerged several times in salt water. Even though you rinse and rinse it still does bad things. So I want to just take mine apart and go through everything to make sure anything that is contaminated gets cleaned out and rebuilt. Thanks for the research and posting this video.
If you did not immediately clean your bearings I can assure you they are likely ruined
For bashing I do 80k front and rear, 500k middle. Team associated
So to toughen up the steering ends, with the RPM ends use ONLY the metal ball ends from the Traxxas 1942 Rod End set??... Only the metal ends from that pack?
Thanks
Right just the metal balls
Bit late to the party here but what are you using to keep the front arm pins in with the RPM bumper? I've got RPM bumper on mine. I broke off and lost the factory one. I didn't get anything with my RPM bumper to hold the pins in.
Tried bodging a tin can lid over it but it didn't work. I took the pin holder off the back and put it on the front but lost that now. the tin lid is still holding up on the back though. I've just ordered a factory bumper just for the part that holds the pins in
Cood video bro. Alots of good info. Can you please ltell me what shock protector your using?
nic video, a lot of good info there it think, i just bought my friends kraton 6s what kind of tips do you have for a first time 18th scale owner. iu own a few 10ths but not as big as this monster :D also idk if have content covering this, i was wondering if you can make a video about diff maintenance.
I have diff videos see arrma playlist and how to playlist
Hey bro just found your channel I wish I would have seen this video before I ordered my new arrma notorious yesterday. ! I'm glad I saw this though heading to eBay now to get upgrades before I even drive it. Damn I should have just gotten the redcat TR-MT8e be6! I almost got that instead now I think I should have it has 6mm shafts everything bigger than arrma but I cheaped out saved 100 bucks and got the arrma now I gotta spend another five hundred bucks on parts to make the arrma drive able
No you don't I have the outcast all it really needs is good sealed bearings and a better servo its a tank trust me get on the arrma forum lots of useful info for upgrades that don't cost much
@@slicktmi hey thanks bro I ordered the hot racing servo mount because I know the stock mount is crap I've seen it wobble and I did order a set of fast Eddie's bearings and the hot racing chassis braces. And tekno pinion gears. Do you think I can get away with not shimming the diffs? I'm not like a crazy basher like Rich duperbash just backyard stuff
@@theirishaxe9405 honestly i never needed to shim inside the diffs ive done it once but it was too tight the new v3 arrmas tightened up tolerances inside the diffs the only thing i would shim is the diff assembly in the bulkhead aka ring gear and pinion with the tekno shims tkr1222 put like 1 or 2 on the same side as the stock shim (gear side bearing )
@@theirishaxe9405 and i also beat my rig pretty close to rich lol basically as high as the jump lets me fly
@@slicktmi awesome thanks
What did you use in place of the stock bumper to keep the hinge pins from sliding out?
I used another stock like mount from the rear, I ground off the plastic square that fits into the rear notch to make it fit the front and it caps off the pins like the rear does
Thanks for the video. Did you have to increase the height of your steering servo cage when you put in the Protek 370tbl? Thank you for your time.
What is the black block you have behind the front bumper holding the hing pins in for lower a arms?
It's a rear a arm mount, a factory kraton one. I ground off part of the plastic on it for it to fit.
You can also use a typhon bumper which is smaller than kraton
Nice video!! Which balls did you use inside the RPM ends?? They have to be shallow balls..
For the shocks you use the stock arrma balls
For steering you use the traxxas rod end balls I linked instead of arrma plastic
which screw do you use for the upgrade of the turnbuckle rod ends??
Holy smokes that servo you linked is 170$!! Is this a basher or a top of the line race buggy!?? Seems a little bit excessive no? Great video. Alot of great info here. Much appreciated. Edit: wait you were building a race buggy.....lol my bad
THNX! I'm buying the new Kraton V4. Do I also have to exchange parts before first bash?
Horst Jedlika NO!
I went to put on the RPM bumper on my V4 Kraton and you said to remove the stock bumper? But there is nothing that can hold in the pins from coming out of the red brace. My bumper on the V4 looks much bigger than the one you took off yours?
I looked up the pinion one is 15t one is 14t Now The issue I’m having is the kraton 6s blx is not compatible with that pinion ?
Hi, thanks a lot for your video. I just bought a kraton V3 and started to upgrade it inspired by your video. I bought the Rpm rod ends. (Long and Short) and the Traxxas metal Balls.
But I have problems Mounting the stuff. The Short rod ends for the shocks do not seem to fit into the shock caps (AR330338) They are to big by diameter.
How did you solve this? Or am I doing something wrong?
I hope you understand my question. Thanks a lot for your help!
Greetings from Germany!
Thanks for your support
The metal ball is only for rpm long end for steering
Hi Jeremy, thanks for your reply. What I meant is the plate of the shocks, that keeps the spring in place. It is placed as the end point of the shock and the connection between spring and rod end. (The black round plate with the gap) the rod end should go inside a bit to keep it in place.
@@svensasel-rc2815 use the stock ball there with the rpm short ends
Does a center differential have the same case as the front and rear?
Great job you know more than most.
what is on your shocks? electrical tape, heat shrink?
Love your video very very informative. I'm pretty new to this hobby, I am deff buying a kraton 6s, my question for you is do you recommend buying a new 1 stock. Or should I purchase a lightly used with with many upgrades already , such as hubs, bearings, servo , spektrum high end radio, front bumper , rear bumper just to name some. Thanks any input Is greatly appreciated
Getting a used one with upgrades will be more cost and time effective as long as it's not broke
@@therccollaborative9524 was thinking the same thing. It even has the tekno shock towers front and rear you recommended. Going to go check it out asap. Thansk for the feedback I'm quite sure I will be watching loads more vids from you. Very helpful
@@jcsquared1111 let me know if you need a good servo I have a brand new in box protek servo that is the best you can buy
@@therccollaborative9524 will do!! And thanks again . Super stoked to get 1 of these bad boys.
where did u get that HR bulckhead with the front piece aluminum all i see is the ones where u have to put the plastic one back on form the original ??
www.google.com/search?q=hot+racing+-+aluminum+gearbox+case+arrma+all+aluminum&safe=off&source=lnms&tbm=shop&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjR6aSNns_eAhWFjVkKHWDpBuQQ_AUIEygB&biw=1097&bih=558#spd=1986290476549618201i found it thanks never knew they made that til now
Hey buddy they are sold separate.
www.amainhobbies.com/hot-racing-arrma-kraton-aluminum-center-sway-bar-mounts-black-hraaon311m01/p679125
rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F263923156032
I have had horrible luck with SMC lipos and highly recommend staying away from them. I don't know what you are doing to your kraton but I beat the hell out of my v2 kraton and didn't have nearly this many problems with mine.
I know this an older vid. I’m trying to find better steering rod link ends for my V3 Kraton. I looked at the RPM ones you show, but figured they were to small. So now i see you used the Traxxas metal ball. Does that make it work well? The stock ones aren’t plastic like you said, and are quite large metal balls.The Traxxas ones seem small?
The balls for the shocks are plastic, not the steering ones
Good information; very informative.
That bumper is the only rpm part I don't like it is not a necessary part. Everyone should build up their rc to their specifications. That is part of the fun and learning process.
I started to used sodering gun i may try drop kreoil its amazing stuff
If you leave the stock bumper off and put on the RPM bumper what holds the hinge pins in??
Nice car really helpful video 👍🏽
Need to know ,,, my k6 has metal balls everywhere, how did you attach the rpm ends ?
I want to order that Protek servo but i can't find a video on how to install it on the Kraton v3, can you make a video?
I did a live mod session on Facebook I did a savox servo it installed the same as protek.
@@therccollaborative9524 i looked for it and cannot find it :(
@@ulisesh2727 look under videos please im trying to get you a link but having trouble.
Essentially it installs just like the stock one.
You have 4x 2mm screws holding servo mount on
4x screws holding servo to the mount
The servo connects to slot number 1 on your receiver no matter which brand receiver you have.
@@therccollaborative9524 thank you very much! I'm going to order it right now, assuming I can still use the stock servo mount correct?
Yes sir it fits
This just made me change my mind and want an xmaxx
an x maxx needs upgrades too, nothing is perfect otherwise these would be 1000$ cars... see my other video with top 5 upgrades and those are the things i would do right off the bat, its not that bad
Wth no this guy installed so many unnecessary upgrades. The Kraton handles much better out of the box than an xmaxx and is just about as tough, if not tougher. The only upgrade you really need is a front bumper.
If you dont put the stock bumper underneath the rpm won't the hinge pins come out
I've had my V4 Kraton for 6wks and today the front CVD popped out of the outdrive. Should I remove the pillow ball shims from the upper arms AND the spacers from the bottom arms and screw all of them in all the way?
Yes that's what I did. If your using rpm arms they are shorter plus look to see if the ball is coming unscrewed from the arms
You’re a god for putting the links to buy in the description. Thank you 🙏🏾
Would these upgrades be necessary for the 8s line ?
I have thought for a long time that if you want a heavily upgraded Kraton, with all the best stuff... you should just order all of the parts and build one. You are throwing away like 75% of the car to do it all and turn it into the X-Maxx competitor that it can be with all of the upgrades. There is no reason to even buy the car to begin with, almost all of it would get thrown away.
One big thing right off is that the cost of the X-maxx is $1,100 and the Arrma is $540 So you can upgrade a little at a time as your budget allows. Dont get me wrong the X-Maxx is nice but I like doing my upgrades a little at a time
@@RT10Viperman I am kind of new to RC, I got a Kraton 4S about 2 years ago and now I also have a Typhon 3S and Axial Deadbolt. I'm not a collector, I just want a few cars for capability. The only other cars I am ever going to want are a 2S dragster... and then my "biggest and best basher" that I spend lots of money on and give it all the best parts. It will be a while before I can afford to get it... but I am completely 50/50 torn between getting an X-Maxx and upgrading it, or just buying all of the best parts there are for a Kraton 6S... M2C stuff, etc... and just building my own Kraton 6S from scratch because there is no reason to by a Kraton to begin with if you want all the upgrades... all the upgrades is almost the entire car.
What would be a good esc for replacement arrma talion I am have a electric problem?
Hey there bro I have a kraton blx 185 6s I looked for the servo you said and it’s out of stock which other servo do you recommend also pinion and spur gear do you recommend for bashing???
The protek 370tbl is in stock at amain.com
Another option is savox 1210sg which that link is in the description
For pinion gear use 14T and stock spur gear. That's a safe bet
The Rc Collaborative Jeremy Hopkins thanks really appreciate it sorry just getting into this what about some good wheels???
@@cityofsinrc7028 its hard to recommend tires for the kraton with 6s the isn't really anything bullet proof for bashing.
I used and liked the stock tires that come on the v1 thru v3.
Proline makes belted trenchers, src sells belted tires but they aren't good off road.
Many people like the stock outcast tires or their equivalent proline badlands.
I would just run the stock tires, balance them and vent the tire and put tape over the holes in the wheels
Whats a good pair of pinion gear and spur gear for bashing and riding around for my arrma kraton v2?
@@cityofsinrc7028 stock spur gear with tekno 14t pinion
What Radio are you running? My apologies if you said or it was listed in the comments.
Futaba 3pv
Should I go for a kraton as my first rc car and upgrade it like this, or go with a team associated rc8t3.1e and mount some protection for bashing. And if I'm going to rebuild half of the car anyway, maybe better to start from building a kit and learn everything about the car right from the start?
The associated is for racing and while you could bash it I think the kraton will be more durable and come with electronics rtr.
If you wanted to race buy a mugen mbx7tr or new mbx8t
Either way I would not be considering an associated car at all either mugen or kraton
Depends on what you want to do with it.
Go buy a Traxxas. They're much tougher.
Had to sub,building outcast,happy new year:)
Mip axles are out now btw
I think top of my list would be aluminum front/rear chassis braces
Hot racing servo mount #3 😹
Sweet video thank you. On the pillow balls you can tighten both the cap and the ball with everything assembled even with the tire on the cap is hallow so you can fit a wrench through it to get to the ball
I guess you can, i just prefer to get a better look at what I am doing and would most likely remove the tire either way.
Excellent, I like that list.
Thanks for this.
I watched this video one time when I got my first Arrma... a Kraton V3. I was like... no way will mine need most of these upgrades. That's way too much money. This was like three weeks ago.
THEN I BOUGHT A 6s BATTERY and the problems you talk about suddenly appeared :)
I promptly lost a front carrier hex nut. Actually I saw it so just picked it up. Didn't know about the plastic pivot ball cup... luckily I found that 2 days later. I ordered the Hot Racing Delkin hex nuts.
My T-Bone bumper seems to sit high and push the body shell up... I'm not sure why. I removed the Kraton bumper beforehand. I will be looking more into this but if you have an idea why it happened let me know.
Today... I suddenly had drivetrain issues. What was it? ... the pivot balls had backed out (from the same arm the hex nut fell out of), the driveshaft came out and got stuck. EXACTLY as you mentioned. It actually gouged the lower A-arm. AND... part AR330379 broke where the upper A-arm meets it. I'm looking into a metal replacement for that part, hopefully from Amain because shipping to Japan is dirt cheap compared to Voltage and other small makers.
I also ordered the Hot Racing servo mount.
I'll be ordering Fast Eddy bearings I think.
Other than that I'll be waiting until other parts break or I feel like spending more money to upgrade.
Thanks again.
Thanks for watching and your support! Thank you for commenting this will help other people! No one believes me when they watch this video. 6s is very very harsh on these cars.
I was surprised at how dead on you were about the hex nut and pivot balls backing out. Other things you mention make sense. The aluminum differential case reducing need for shimming is interesting.
For now it will have to be "break something then upgrade". Balancing costs with ability and necessity :)
@@therccollaborative9524 lol exactly i have outcast havent broke much but ik bc i take easy ive been practicing with granite alot also ppl think its un fair to have upgrade but arrma giving you a rocket that built pretty well for out the box if going drive like us going bash 6s going be wrenching so just letting them know before it breaks bc you been there thank you i appreciate 😁👍
good idea but hard when your on a budget. Nice mods though.
Thanks for stopping to comment! I totally understand about the cost, BEFORE ever ordering my Kraton I spent 2 weeks researching youtube and forums to find the weak areas and find out about the platform. I personally had allot more breakages and failures than others have reported, so everyone might have a different experience with their vehicle and driving styles, with that said anyone can pick and chose any mod they want to use in case they have similar issues. I spent allot of time waiting on Warranty parts and I had to take over and just bullet proof it. I had allot of other mods not mentioned, but these are the ones I feel that will make life easier and get you down the road further.
Hi fella, what have you put around the shocks? Heat shrink?
i cant remember exactly but I dont recommend using anything it messes with spring rate, especially not heat shrink
OK that's a shame as looks really good and effective
I know the problem of the popping cvds now. The rpm arms are longer in my case I measured them. Whyyyy rpm whyyyy!?!
Just remove the spacers on the ball s
Nice upgrades mate if your into racing heavily like you are 👍i understand some of the upgrades are useful 👍 so thanks for the links and sharing that information But on looking on other videos this Beast has a great reputation for being hard as nails and a Outstanding Rc Basher Truck, so I carnt understand why I would spend nearly $450 or More on upgrades to make it stronger, you said you practice upto 13 hours a day with this so obviously things are going wear out and break 🤔 Some items you were saying it is a must have, there are loads of videos on this V3 Kraton saying it's Amazing out the Box , But the likes of me and other people who want to get one just for bashing about will this be ok to buy 😯 because I might as well save up for a X-Maxx, or is this just solely because you are a racer, 😜 it's going to take me 5 months to save up for this kraton so now am thinking is it worth it after seeing your video, hope you understand where am coming from my freind 😀
Hey buddy I really understand! The kraton is amazing it is definatly a great starting point over everything else available. With that said it is just a starting point, nothing is ever built perfect. Also I'm not forcing anyone to listen or buy the upgrades they are merely suggestions that I found to improve the car further. Not everyone is into modding.
Also it doesn't sound like you currently own one so please re evaluate the suggestions after you actually run one and find issues on your own. When you do you may kindly refer to my links to the upgrades that which will improve your truck. I didn't make this list for my health or fun, I had issues and these were my solutions and I am just trying to help.
Thanks for watching!
Also have you seen the videos of the xmaxx breaking in half lol your not buying quality there in my opinion.
One more food for thought bashing is 1000% more intense then racing on the car as far as wear. No one is bending chassis and sending it at the track. We run 4s to race unlike 6s which people bash on and that makes a massive difference
I have had alot of responses like yours from people because my large list. This was meant to be a one stop shop of information for arrma users with a compilation of all the upgrades I have learned. With that in mind I will do a follow up video of the top 5 things I would do if you could only do 5.
Yes Jeremy I don't own one yet and you are going to be my go to guy when I get one, just thought you would have to buy all them upgrades to make it good lol 😜 I do appreciate you getting back to me my friend 👍 hopefully get one before the Summer, fingers crossed mate, thanks for all the links to 👍😀👍
Tony talk to me buddy you know how my cars are set up! Unlike anything else anyone has!! Especially my 2,000 dollar 8S powered Talion! 😂😂😂 nice to hear you considering an Xmaxx let me know what questions you have buddy!! BOOM 👊🔥🔥
The Rc Collaborative Jeremy Hopkins I own both Arrma and Traxxas cars no the Xmaxx is not junk! After spending quite a bit of money on my Talion it can now keep up with the Xmaxx as far as durability and driveability! Total nonsense! Come look at my cars youll neber see an Arrma built up like mine! Ill put it to you this way, you can buy three Kratons to get your car to my level - and now it can go where the Xmaxx can 😂😂😂😂 STOCK Xmaxx!! thats now modded as well but another story with that truck! ✌️👊👍
What all fits the 4s
I do not know sorry
do you use the stock balls on the shock ends?
Yes
@@therccollaborative9524 okay thank you, do you know if RPM ships to Austria (Austria not Australia 😅)
@@ELValenin I'm sure you can get it from Ebay, if not I think you can also use tekno shock ends that use metal balls.
Im a truck driver ordered this truck to play with on days off for a guy like me is any of this nessesary i dont see me abusing this at a truck stop or at flat field just curious thx
You can wait until things break then address them
I been out of the hobby for ping time but that what you had in your hand is a dog bone the mip is cvd and I’m not being a ass I like your video just saying the stock ones are dog bones the mip are CVD’s
Did the mip axles solve the bending issue???
Hey buddy I haven't tried them myself. But I would be willing to bet the mip materials are higher quality and should be stronger
Cool upgrades bro 😎 just subbed 👊🏼
Must haves.......
My hero!
Dude you do some serious driving.
What charger do u use for ur smc battery
Ev peak CD3
Revolectrix GT1200 and a 24v power supply. I could charge 4 6S 7400mah lipos at 1c at the same time! It's a beast!
Awesome video brother the kraton is a beast. 😎😎
What kind shocks using
Stock
Did the heatsink fit plug and play??
I soldered my fans together on the same plug and had to change the plug to the kind that fits your receiver
@@therccollaborative9524 and did the heatsink fit on the motor nicely or did you need to deform it??
@@ELValenin no deform, it fit correctly on stock motor.
Thanks for the video
I did brother i have mip long hexs for drill i even tried diffrent brand im still a fool shouldve known better
Treadlock on plastic!? Better with CA glue.
every plastic is different, and this has been working great with no issues at all. I would say other plastics need to be cautiously tested first
A lot of good info but you must launch your cars a 100 ft in the air to have that much repairs. I have replaced like 2 small parts in a year and I play hard with it.
Folks the Only upgrades needed are a stronger chassis and towers! Forget spending the big bucks!! 😂😂😂
Lol don't spend the big bucks he says, a chassis is only about 100 bucks
The new kraton has tower to tower brace to help with chassis flex.
Stock towers do suck but only buy 7075 aluminum towers not 6061
The Rc Collaborative Jeremy Hopkins wrong again! Go watch Aussie RC playground! The tower to tower brace sucks doesnt do a dam thing to help with the chassis flexing!!
You missed the poing of my comment! It flew wayyyy over your head!! 😂😂😂😂😂 Let me explain it for you genius - yes you need to spend big bucks!! Capiche? 🤣🤣🤣
The tower to tower brace is a waste! Upgrade your chassis and towers folks! The other stuff is a waste of your money! My 8S powered - Xmaxx wheels Arrma Talion 8S says so!! 😂😂 and then you can say it yes it is now as good or better, stronger than a bone stock Xmaxx! I own both cars 😂😂 But an out of the box Kraton better than an Xmaxx? dont know what you are smoking but send some of that ganja my way!! I need some hallucinogens every now and then!!
I really like the kraton 4-s but it’s too expensive after all the upgrades. Makes no sense to build such a beast with so many weak parts. Your looking at 1000$ plus after upgrades. Hmm the exb seems the way to go.
I meant 6-s
What balls did you use for the shocks
Stock balls
@@therccollaborative9524 plastic ones?
@@slicktmi yes sir the plastic are stock that's what I used because I never found a metal one that fits
@@therccollaborative9524 the tekno rod ends and a 6.8mm ball works is what i found out those plastic ones are junk
@@slicktmi word thanks for sharing anything tekno is good, I never had problems with my plastic ones but I would go tekno for sure
Hex = 6 ;)
5:52 you dont need to it take anything off at all to tighten a pillow ball, stock or otherwise. thats why they used a giant hex for the caps and a flow through design with a smaller hex for the pillow ball.
8:46 you dont need to even loosen any motor mounts to change a pinion.
9:00 WTF are you talking about, "the only proper way to set the mesh"????? there is absolutely zero reason you cant loosen the motor mount slide it to the proper position and check mesh by either holding the pinion or spur and rocking the other back and forth.
10:43 WTF are you doing to your cars? could it be taking the whole fucking diff and motor mount assembly out to set the mesh isnt the "proper way" to set mesh? hmmm.
11:29 theres plenty of reasons to buy 2 3s batteries vs 1 6s. the biggest reason is if 1 cell in your 6s pack goes bad there goes a $150 battery, its cheaper when it happens to a 3s. another reason might be because a 3s battery could be used in more vehicles. 11:48 again worried about adding resistance. you using xt90s for fucks sake.
12:35 yea, fuck front end geometry who needs that. it only comes with spacers on top so you would be changer camber by a lot.
13:05 and thats how i was telling you earlier how you dont need to take them off.
No fluids?
Shit looks like a ton of work.. damn engineering degree.
Don't understand. For the price you pay and all the things we have to change to be stronger it's a shame, shame for arrma about this. Thanks a lot for your upgrades.
Wow ppl are never happy you must be a young fella these by far most duable fastest rcs ever out of the box we would spend weeks building , and smallest things would cause problems and you would be back on the bench nitro buggys were tough and get laps , races ect but talking 1000 20 30 yrs ago and you wouldnt send it way you woukd outcast because all hard work time and money even if coukd survived good landings
Even after 450 upgrades he will still wear and break parts for him to feel he needs hes putting alot time racing and bashing and just wants to improve weaker points remember can always go faster and faster you go more stuff breaks as enthusiasts you want use the best parts available dosent mean original parts are bad ive owned my outcast and 2 other arrmas only broke couple small parts i bought hotracing hubs bc i lost pillow nuts and figured get better ones and have spares nice have parts on hand imo once im rcing alot otherwise get frustrated like now waiting for parts so sticking arrmas alot parts compatible so i cam bash on. 👍💪💪💪💪👍👍
Traxxas is the worst I know from experience and wasted money😢
Exactly I thought arma was supposed to be built like a rock???? Might as well buy an xmaxx . Be the same price after making all these upgrades
great deal of info good upgrades thanks ever so much