I know it's been a while but thought I's add what I have learnt about these valves with regard to the additional chamber.... I hope I have this right :-) The unit is actually a load sensing proportioning valve & bypass valve. The additional section forms the bypass to allow full pressure to the rear wheels in the event of a front brake failure. Have a look at the first post in this thread... Hope that clears a few things up.
I'm actually thankful for this video. Mine started leaking and I was wondering if it would even come apart so I could put new seals in there. And it appears it would be a good attempt.
@analog56x In NASCAR they have a brake dial in the car that the dirver can adjust how much brake is applied to front or rear. They can turn a knob and adjust the more pressure to the front or rear.
@ndchevy my dad works at toyota, and he says that one of the ends goes to the ABS module... but that doesnt help me, and he doesnt really know anything beyond that... i think im just gunna cap the big chamber off and just use the smaller one...
Your top line is for the back brakes your bottom line is The additional section forms the bypass to allow full pressure to the rear wheels in the event of a front brake failure.
You said your rear brakes are locking up BEFORE your fronts? That is your metering valve. You dont need a metering valve with 4 wheel disc. The prop valve might help, but its the metering valve that delays your front brake application, which is why your rears are locking up FIRST.
I know it's been a while but thought I's add what I have learnt about these valves with regard to the additional chamber.... I hope I have this right :-)
The unit is actually a load sensing proportioning valve & bypass valve. The additional section forms the bypass to allow full pressure to the rear wheels in the event of a front brake failure.
Have a look at the first post in this thread...
Hope that clears a few things up.
I'm actually thankful for this video. Mine started leaking and I was wondering if it would even come apart so I could put new seals in there. And it appears it would be a good attempt.
Wonder if there's any master cylinder rebuild kit, with compatible seals.
Mine was leaking, and was surprised how pricey these valves are. Wonder if there's any master cylinder rebuild kit, with compatible seals.
@analog56x In NASCAR they have a brake dial in the car that the dirver can adjust how much brake is applied to front or rear. They can turn a knob and adjust the more pressure to the front or rear.
thanks for this video i learned so much
I think you can Buy and install manual proportioning valve at advance auto. And cap 2 lines.
@ndchevy my dad works at toyota, and he says that one of the ends goes to the ABS module... but that doesnt help me, and he doesnt really know anything beyond that... i think im just gunna cap the big chamber off and just use the smaller one...
Your top line is for the back brakes your bottom line is The additional section forms the bypass to allow full pressure to the rear wheels in the event of a front brake failure.
@analog56x Makes during a burnout way easier and doesn't burn up your rear brakes when you hold the pedal too lol.
@98eck oh cool! i didnt know that haha, learn something new every day :)
Bro where have you been. Watch some of the old vid over a decade ago lol..
@98eck haha, rears only?
how do you get this brass nut off? is turning it to the left the correct way to get this out? I guess ill go for the wd40 soon enough
Hey, you got racecar brakes lol!
Just get rid of it.
Run lines and go do medium and hard braking. Drive accordingly
You said your rear brakes are locking up BEFORE your fronts? That is your metering valve. You dont need a metering valve with 4 wheel disc. The prop valve might help, but its the metering valve that delays your front brake application, which is why your rears are locking up FIRST.
I couldn't post a link...
Search for LSPV & BV