A possible cause is that your shoes are worn down from normal use and aren't engaging anymore. Toyota drum brakes are automatically adjusted (only) when the parking brake is used. Opposite of this, is that the front (caliper/pads) brakes are adjusted automatically every time the brakes are used (normal brake pedal is depressed). Normal wear of the shoes (rear) eventually gets so great that they won't work (touch the drum) without an adjustment. I believe that if you put the parking brake on and of like a dozen or more times, the drums will work again. And if you start using your parking brake regularly, it'll automatically adjust. This problem has probably already been solved by now, but just in case, it could help....
just so you know. the E brake does not work with Hydraulic pressure. it works directly off a cable. So if you press your emergency brake and the wheel does not stop spinning then your brakes or cable needs adjusting. No relation to your LSPV
If you don't want to have such a mess, get an old soda bottle (1.5ltr here in Australia), drill a hole in the top the same diameter as plastic hose that you can get from the hardware that will fit over the bleed nipple. It's about 8mm (1/4") diameter here. Drill another small vent hole in the bottletop, push the tube down thru the cap into the BOTTOM of the bottle and put some brake fluid in there that that the tube is immersed in (helps maintain a resistance to the fluid /air moving back up the system when pumping the pedal), then screw the cap on. Bleed as you normally do, but all the mess is in the bottle. If I'm patient I can use this method to bleed my system without help (start at the wheel furthest away from the master cylinder).so long as the tube stays immersed in the fluid in the bottle. Or you can get help too, and the mess doesn't get all over you or you helper....
I had something like this on a chevy tracker I bought last year. I had to replace all the rear lines so I went from 2 lines going to the rear to 1 line that bypassed the valve and I installed a adjustable valve under the hood. It works fine and I get to adjust it how I want it.
The complete saying was originally “A jack of all trades is a master of none, but oftentimes better than a master of one.” Formerly intended as a compliment, the phrase means that a person is a generalist rather than a specialist, versatile and adept at many things.”  medium.com › the-complete-...
@@theotherguy3083 I have a question for you! I have a 2001 tundra and im wanting to upgrade my calipers to the larger ones S13WL will these fit with my 16" wheels and not rub?
I need to get my rear brakes fixed asap. I almost rear ended a car yesterday. I slammed on the brakes and rolled past her. I had to turn into the next lane. New brake master cylinder, steel braided brake lines front and rear with lexus 338mm rotors and calipers. Brakes still suck. Next is new drum kit with brake cylinders and load proportioning valve. Hopefully this fixes my issue.
My 1994 pick up I had the same issue never realized till I tried to bleed the rear brakes and had no fluid traced it down to the valve and from the hose to the rear brake lines gets no fluid
Ok I have a 1990 Toyota 4Runner w/ manual transmission 4x4. I have disc rotors on front, and drum brakes on rear. I use OEM Organic pads. I bled my brakes, my brakes work, no leaks. I don't have ABS. Sometimes when I slowly exit the driveway, I will tap the brakes and one of the rear tires will briefly lock up and release, leaving a 8" streak/tire skid in the driveway. Its random, it can be one wheel or the other rear wheel with drum brakes. It only happens at very low speed. Any ideas? I have new dot 3 brake fluid, I never mix synthetic with conventional brake fluid. I have that Load Sensing Proportional Valve in the rear on the vehicle. Its 34 years old, original. Could it be that? Its not my wheel cyl, they are new. They are OEM and I changed them myself, thiinking they were problematic. But they are not. The master cyl is original. But my brakes are working.
Did you determine this to be a ABS module issue? That part is $1200 from the dealer for the ABS module. I have had a squishy brake for a few year now. Thanks for sharing this. I have not done anything with my proportioning valve though. I have a 2006.
So is it possible that the original valve was okay and you just needed to adjust the thing on that bracket? I know how it goes--sometimes nothing makes sense and you can get stumped. Sometimes the laws of physics and logic seem not to apply when dealing with stuff like this, lol. Great job!
I have a 1987 Toyota one ton pickup chassis with a motor home built on it!!! 4 clyinder, automatic trans, rear wheel drive with a proportional valve in the back. The left fronf wheel locks up and skids. With light braking. But the truck does not stop very well! I put a new master clyinder on because it was leaking.. Also put a new vacuum booster. Still the front break locking up, then put new pads and calipers up fromt!!! Still not stopping. The I just put a new proportional valve and now it still locks up and hardly stops. When I bleed the brakes I get fluid out of the proportional valve. But now I don't get any fluid out of the bleeders on the drum brakes. What should I do???? Larry
That particular brake line might be clogged...I had a similar problem with a 2003 Tundra. The passenger front flexible brake line was clogged up unknown t9 me and many mechanics who tried to fix the problem due to rust! I lightly shook, vibrate and flex the brake line until it became unclogged. I then was able to properly bleed the front passenger brake valve. All 4 brakes work fine there after.. I eventually change the font flexible brake line with a new one...Everything has been fine with my brakes ever since...
Hey brother, I got question about what u did.. mine is the same or similar..I got 04 tundra.. change my drum brakes and somehow can't bleed them.. no fluid. Was thinking it might be master cylinder but change it and still same problem..my question is when u took your porportion valve out was there alot of fluid come out and when u install new one did the fluid go in easy..
Looks like you BLSPV is stuck closed preventing fluid from going to you rear slave cylinder. And yes, there was brake fluid dripping from my brake lines when I removed my proportioning valve.
I have a 1993 Nissan pick up mine is leaking . So slow many be a little drop every so many days . My truck is rusted so going to have to drape it with wd40 I might just wait till it goes out . Thanks for the video I was looking for a video in this .
Nice video. I have a 2004 Toyota Tundra SR5. I had to replace my brake booster because it had a leak inside the cab area. I purchased an aftermarket booster from Autozone but believe it might have been defective. Ever had air coming out between cylinder and booster? I got a code for running lean and it's all I could find that might be causing the problem. Do you think it's better to get an OEM part? What are your thoughts?
I know it's 9 months later, but I've read a lot of bad things about the aftermarket boosters within the forums. I'm pretty sure you can't buy a new one anymore from Toyota, though I haven't checked recently. If you get a used one, I'm told that the ones from arid, desert climates can sometimes be more prone to failure since the diaphragm is rubber. (These are only things I've read, so take them with a grain of salt) If/when my booster fails, I'm thinking of getting a hydraulic booster that is driven by the hydraulic pressure of the power steering pump. It's totally overkill, but finding good parts for these trucks is getting more challenging. Maybe someone will eventually try retrofitting a booster / master cylinder from a newer truck?
ive bin thru complete rear brake system .previous owner disconnected both brake lines to rear, by passed distribution block on front left frame below master cylinder and connected those to lines together.rear brakes were obviously non functional.i had to replace everything to rear brakes I am now replacing load sensing proportion valve at rear.there are two holes for brake lines coming from front to rear load sensing prop valve.In the proportioning valve there are two inlet holes ,one from master cylinder and one from abs block for two lines goin to rear.Because they were unhooked previously i do not no where the lines from the master cylinder and abs block goin to rear proportioning valve go..can anyone help me ?
Asian Noodle if it happens during off road trips, the rear may not have any braking capacity. You wanna check it at the first sign of weird brake pedal feel.
Had a question, now that you've changed/replaced it, is your brake pedal pretty responsive? I have an 06 TUNDRA D.C. 4X4 an I have a soft pedal on this thing an I'm going grey trying to figure this damn truck out. HAD A SHOP look at it last year after I changed the rear shoes and "tried" to adjust the parking brake, apparently they'd said it had bad fluid so they changed the fluid, bled the system. The mechanic said I'd ALMOST HAD THE ADJUSTMENTS (but obviously due to bad fluid wasn't ever gonna get there) right. After they did all this ($364 later😤😤) the brakes were absolute TITTS, felt like I had racing brakes on the truck, now 2 oil changes later I'm back to the same issue of a soft pedal and a MEH parking brake again. Is the rear proportioning valve a necessity to bleed every damn time these parking brakes get low? If anyone else has had this same issue (givin what I've had fixed) please let me know what fixed it. Love my truck but this is a silly problem (I've had classic 60's cars with 4wheel drums and this was never an issue). Also had another question, any chance you'd fabricate slide bars for personal purchase, saw your video when you made yours and liked em alot. Wanna ditch my stock running boards. Let me know on either or both. ...
Hit me up on Facebook, "theother guy." We can communicate better there. On another note, adjust your brake proportioning valve upward in increments of an inch at a time to see if it helps with your brake pedal feel.
I hv isuzu dmax. Carry load 1 ton which is over load. My problem when carry load my rear brake shoe need to change. I mean my be the brake touch the drum during driving.
Mine is a 2008 I do not have that proportion valve.i changed hoses calipers even master cylinder and still locked up after driven around the block what I'm missing !
@@fernandosaldana7777 I would change the brake hoses that goes to your brakes. Over time they can get damage and the fluid won't return back up leaving pressure on your brakes. Start with the rubber ones as they are cheaper to replace.
@@fernandosaldana7777 last thing on my mind would be the abs sensor unit if equipped located under the mster cylynder or by the firewall on passenger side under the hood or the master cylinder it self.
Could I get your email or some way to contact you? I have a 2001 tundra exact same as your truck I just hade my shoes and drums replaced but after about a mile of driving my back brakes get hot and start to get tight and eventually I have pull over to let them cool off and release? The new shoes and drums didn’t fix it and I don’t want to replace the master cylinder or booster yet any info would be helpful thanks!
The Other Guy in the morning it’s fine but when I get back to my truck after work I’ll drive about a mile and they start getting hot and start to lock up
Can someone do me a favor? I replaced the metal brake lines on my 03 and I am not sure which brake line is supposed to go to which port on the proportioning valve. The line comes out of the master cylinder and splits. One line goes to the ABS module and the other goes to the proportioning valve. Then there is one from the ABS module to the other port on the proportioning valve.
@@theotherguy3083 I did not. But in doing that, I would have to assume that the previous brake line replacement was done correctly. Also, between the junction where the lines go from the cab to the frame and back to the proportioning valve was simple... The upper line went to the upper fitting of the proportioning valve. Easy to remember. A picture of where the lines from the master cylinder down to those elbows would be tough to decipher, so I was going to replace those (splice into them up where the line is in good shape) one at a time. As I lifted the cab off of the frame (for frame replacement) those lines got caught on something and broke off at the same spot and fell on the garage floor. So... Now it was a wild ass guess as to where they go. Why the frame replacement? Why did the lines just "break off?" Rust. Lots of rust. And brake lines on vehicles tend to rust right at those support clips, so they broke off in the same spot. It is the wonders of the stupid road salts around here. Karens complain about it being slippery and the only way to shut them up is to spread more salt.
@@theotherguy3083 Anything that you can do is good. I was only hoping that I could ask someone how it is supposed to be rather than bleed 3 bottles of brake fluid through only to discover that it's hooked up wrong.
Thanks for the video. But those valve are very expensive. It cost me almost 400 dollars and i havenot seen nobody fixin them. Why they get damage. O-ring maybe ? If someone knows how to repair one. It would be interesting.
It's completely normal for wheels connected to transmission to move when raised it air.. the transmission always has drag ..but not enough to move it with weight of car/truck on ground.
Well firing off the parts Cannon what else could be your problem oh wait you only have one more part to fire from the parts Cannon so that is a perfect example of throwing parts at it or firing the parts Cannon instead of doing some good old diagnostic troubleshooting at least all the parts are new not a good thing because of cheaply made parts are that are not from the dealer
I'm saying is Toyota Tundras are one ton trucks because they have the they have the parts like every part they have under the truck for anything it's from a semi called he Hino and that's what Toyota called is in
All Toyota vehicles like saying the TRD off-road packages are not made for rock crawling they're made for desert racing that's how they're made for you can't use them for rock crawling but they're not really made for that are made for desert racing man
Thanks Other Guy! Sometimes it’s nice to hear other people’s thoughts and how you come to the conclusion. I watched your video today and it helped me figure out mine and I appreciated the explanations. Different strokes for different folks, keep it up .. sad how people need to make rude comments instead of just move on or hit thumbs down. Take care :)
That's a nothing where you compare to a million miles Tundra way they had on TH-cam your Tundra doesn't compare it man will you say you abused it or anything it doesn't matter my dad has a 2003 Tundra and he abuses it more than you cuz I know my Dad pulled up to 18000 pound here in Colorado and he probably pulls up to 15,000 pounds daily
Raul Bueno These truck are not designed to pull even 10K lbs. this first generation is at 7,500 lbs. I pulled an 8K pound camper and my stepfather’s truck was screaming to stop. His is a 2001 model well maintained. 92K miles currently
Oh yeah it is man I pulled up to 18000 pounds with a 2003 Toyota Tundra and it did fine what you have Chevy Dodge Ford she was a piece of crap vehicles Toyota comes over build man
Hey man it doesn't matter how much time you put on that truck it would do it my dad has a 2003 Toyota Tundra and a pulled up to 4000 pounds on his bed and he pulled up towed up to 18,000 lb it doesn't matter what kind of load you have it just I don't know where you doing with that truck or I don't know but I know that truck you guys going to have more problems I'm just saying is I put so much load on that truck and it doesn't it does fine that's fine it just I don't know what's going on with yours don't say it's the truck I don't know if it's you or the truck I don't know it just saying is truck is a half ton truck with a 1 ton truck man don't say it's not I have 10 don't say it to 110 but it's a one ton truck man I know what is it man
But do you mean what do I say man I'm saying the truck it's not a half ton it's a one ton truck I know for fact it's a one ton truck man cuz I has it frame as a semi basically everything on that truck from the first generation to the 2nd to the 3rd Generation Tundras or overbuilt trucks that's what I'm saying it's that outperform any truck
A possible cause is that your shoes are worn down from normal use and aren't engaging anymore. Toyota drum brakes are automatically adjusted (only) when the parking brake is used. Opposite of this, is that the front (caliper/pads) brakes are adjusted automatically every time the brakes are used (normal brake pedal is depressed). Normal wear of the shoes (rear) eventually gets so great that they won't work (touch the drum) without an adjustment. I believe that if you put the parking brake on and of like a dozen or more times, the drums will work again. And if you start using your parking brake regularly, it'll automatically adjust. This problem has probably already been solved by now, but just in case, it could help....
just so you know. the E brake does not work with Hydraulic pressure. it works directly off a cable. So if you press your emergency brake and the wheel does not stop spinning then your brakes or cable needs adjusting. No relation to your LSPV
He is showing you the pads and drums are working because it slowed when he did e brake, but not when he does pedal.
I'm having a similar issue with my 1990...not for long! Thanks for posting.
If you don't want to have such a mess, get an old soda bottle (1.5ltr here in Australia), drill a hole in the top the same diameter as plastic hose that you can get from the hardware that will fit over the bleed nipple. It's about 8mm (1/4") diameter here. Drill another small vent hole in the bottletop, push the tube down thru the cap into the BOTTOM of the bottle and put some brake fluid in there that that the tube is immersed in (helps maintain a resistance to the fluid /air moving back up the system when pumping the pedal), then screw the cap on. Bleed as you normally do, but all the mess is in the bottle. If I'm patient I can use this method to bleed my system without help (start at the wheel furthest away from the master cylinder).so long as the tube stays immersed in the fluid in the bottle. Or you can get help too, and the mess doesn't get all over you or you helper....
Jack on all trade master of none but ofter better than master one one. People forgot the rest of the saying. Thanks for the advice
I had something like this on a chevy tracker I bought last year. I had to replace all the rear lines so I went from 2 lines going to the rear to 1 line that bypassed the valve and I installed a adjustable valve under the hood. It works fine and I get to adjust it how I want it.
Jack of all trades master of ONE! This is the original quote.
The complete saying was originally “A jack of all trades is a master of none, but oftentimes better than a master of one.” Formerly intended as a compliment, the phrase means that a person is a generalist rather than a specialist, versatile and adept at many things.”

medium.com › the-complete-...
@@theotherguy3083 Sweet I like it!
@@theotherguy3083 I have a question for you! I have a 2001 tundra and im wanting to upgrade my calipers to the larger ones S13WL will these fit with my 16" wheels and not rub?
Shop just changed LPValve but brakes still soft and pedal goes to far down. Your video has given me an idea of what may be the problem. Thank you
Sounds like bad master cylinder or air in lines still
You "just happen to have one lying around." LOL. Great video. Thanks.
I own a Tundra ... I always have a spare Brake Load Sensing Proportioning Valve laying around in my garage too !! Thanks for the video - nice job. !!
thanks for the tips & guidelines I learned much
I need to get my rear brakes fixed asap. I almost rear ended a car yesterday. I slammed on the brakes and rolled past her. I had to turn into the next lane. New brake master cylinder, steel braided brake lines front and rear with lexus 338mm rotors and calipers. Brakes still suck. Next is new drum kit with brake cylinders and load proportioning valve. Hopefully this fixes my issue.
Good Job, I had a similar problem, thanks for sharing
My 1994 pick up I had the same issue never realized till I tried to bleed the rear brakes and had no fluid traced it down to the valve and from the hose to the rear brake lines gets no fluid
Was brake fluid coming out of the bleed valve on the proportioning valve before you changed it?
Ok I have a 1990 Toyota 4Runner w/ manual transmission 4x4. I have disc rotors on front, and drum brakes on rear. I use OEM Organic pads. I bled my brakes, my brakes work, no leaks. I don't have ABS. Sometimes when I slowly exit the driveway, I will tap the brakes and one of the rear tires will briefly lock up and release, leaving a 8" streak/tire skid in the driveway. Its random, it can be one wheel or the other rear wheel with drum brakes. It only happens at very low speed. Any ideas? I have new dot 3 brake fluid, I never mix synthetic with conventional brake fluid. I have that Load Sensing Proportional Valve in the rear on the vehicle. Its 34 years old, original. Could it be that? Its not my wheel cyl, they are new. They are OEM and I changed them myself, thiinking they were problematic. But they are not. The master cyl is original. But my brakes are working.
Thanks for video. Curious why you didn't think it was the master cylinder or the abs?
Because I have already fixed them
Did you determine this to be a ABS module issue? That part is $1200 from the dealer for the ABS module. I have had a squishy brake for a few year now. Thanks for sharing this. I have not done anything with my proportioning valve though. I have a 2006.
If your trying not to make a mess you have to use vinyl tubing to guide the brake fluid
I’m having the same problem wish I had an extra one lying around the dealer is charging an arm and a leg for that part
So is it possible that the original valve was okay and you just needed to adjust the thing on that bracket?
I know how it goes--sometimes nothing makes sense and you can get stumped. Sometimes the laws of physics and logic seem not to apply when dealing with stuff like this, lol. Great job!
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I have a 1987 Toyota one ton pickup chassis with a motor home built on it!!! 4 clyinder, automatic trans, rear wheel drive with a proportional valve in the back. The left fronf wheel locks up and skids. With light braking. But the truck does not stop very well!
I put a new master clyinder on because it was leaking.. Also put a new vacuum booster. Still the front break locking up, then put new pads and calipers up fromt!!! Still not stopping. The I just put a new proportional valve and now it still locks up and hardly stops. When I bleed the brakes I get fluid out of the proportional valve. But now I don't get any fluid out of the bleeders on the drum brakes.
What should I do????
Larry
Did you lift the truck?
@@theotherguy3083
No.
That particular brake line might be clogged...I had a similar problem with a 2003 Tundra. The passenger front flexible brake line was clogged up unknown t9 me and many mechanics who tried to fix the problem due to rust! I lightly shook, vibrate and flex the brake line until it became unclogged. I then was able to properly bleed the front passenger brake valve. All 4 brakes work fine there after.. I eventually change the font flexible brake line with a new one...Everything has been fine with my brakes ever since...
What misery did the brake load sensing proportional valve giving you?
Hey brother, I got question about what u did.. mine is the same or similar..I got 04 tundra.. change my drum brakes and somehow can't bleed them.. no fluid. Was thinking it might be master cylinder but change it and still same problem..my question is when u took your porportion valve out was there alot of fluid come out and when u install new one did the fluid go in easy..
Looks like you BLSPV is stuck closed preventing fluid from going to you rear slave cylinder. And yes, there was brake fluid dripping from my brake lines when I removed my proportioning valve.
so at the end you just move the lever to a point that the prop valve just led the fluid pass?
Yes, and also check your brake pedal to make sure it feels right.
You need to bleed the load valve I had that problem before
I have a 1993 Nissan pick up mine is leaking . So slow many be a little drop every so many days . My truck is rusted so going to have to drape it with wd40 I might just wait till it goes out . Thanks for the video I was looking for a video in this .
Thank you for the encouraging words!
Nice video. I have a 2004 Toyota Tundra SR5. I had to replace my brake booster because it had a leak inside the cab area. I purchased an aftermarket booster from Autozone but believe it might have been defective. Ever had air coming out between cylinder and booster? I got a code for running lean and it's all I could find that might be causing the problem. Do you think it's better to get an OEM part? What are your thoughts?
I know it's 9 months later, but I've read a lot of bad things about the aftermarket boosters within the forums. I'm pretty sure you can't buy a new one anymore from Toyota, though I haven't checked recently. If you get a used one, I'm told that the ones from arid, desert climates can sometimes be more prone to failure since the diaphragm is rubber. (These are only things I've read, so take them with a grain of salt) If/when my booster fails, I'm thinking of getting a hydraulic booster that is driven by the hydraulic pressure of the power steering pump. It's totally overkill, but finding good parts for these trucks is getting more challenging. Maybe someone will eventually try retrofitting a booster / master cylinder from a newer truck?
very well put together mate well done from australia
What if you accidently drop it on cement floor 2.5 feet high, won't affect it if it hits solid edge, right?
Really good information now I know
When you did this did you bleed all 4 wheels or just the rear 2?
Just the rear
ive bin thru complete rear brake system .previous owner disconnected both brake lines to rear, by passed distribution block on front left frame below master cylinder and connected those to lines together.rear brakes were obviously non functional.i had to replace everything to rear brakes I am now replacing load sensing proportion valve at rear.there are two holes for brake lines coming from front to rear load sensing prop valve.In the proportioning valve there are two inlet holes ,one from master cylinder and one from abs block for two lines goin to rear.Because they were unhooked previously i do not no where the lines from the master cylinder and abs block goin to rear proportioning valve go..can anyone help me ?
Hit me up on FB, "theother guy."
Did you notice it when you were off roading ?Just want to make sure what I am looking for if it comes up. Thanks again for your insight.
Asian Noodle if it happens during off road trips, the rear may not have any braking capacity. You wanna check it at the first sign of weird brake pedal feel.
Any idea where I could source this part? I am stuck, my dealer wants $2100
Ebay
Great Video , have the same issue with my 2004 tundra , now I know what to replace.
what kind of skid plate you have on your gas tank.
Home built. Lol
Had a question, now that you've changed/replaced it, is your brake pedal pretty responsive? I have an 06 TUNDRA D.C. 4X4 an I have a soft pedal on this thing an I'm going grey trying to figure this damn truck out. HAD A SHOP look at it last year after I changed the rear shoes and "tried" to adjust the parking brake, apparently they'd said it had bad fluid so they changed the fluid, bled the system. The mechanic said I'd ALMOST HAD THE ADJUSTMENTS (but obviously due to bad fluid wasn't ever gonna get there) right. After they did all this ($364 later😤😤) the brakes were absolute TITTS, felt like I had racing brakes on the truck, now 2 oil changes later I'm back to the same issue of a soft pedal and a MEH parking brake again. Is the rear proportioning valve a necessity to bleed every damn time these parking brakes get low? If anyone else has had this same issue (givin what I've had fixed) please let me know what fixed it. Love my truck but this is a silly problem (I've had classic 60's cars with 4wheel drums and this was never an issue).
Also had another question, any chance you'd fabricate slide bars for personal purchase, saw your video when you made yours and liked em alot. Wanna ditch my stock running boards. Let me know on either or both. ...
Hit me up on Facebook, "theother guy." We can communicate better there.
On another note, adjust your brake proportioning valve upward in increments of an inch at a time to see if it helps with your brake pedal feel.
I am having the opposite problem, Front doesn't work Rear works like it should?
Explain?
I can’t get either of the rear drum bleeder valves to produce any fluid, do you I have the same problem?
Possible
I changed out both rear bleeder valves and now I’m good.
@@cww180 on the drum?
@@theotherguy3083 yes on both rear drums. I wish I could attach pictures to show the damage to the valve.
@@cww180 nice. You are talking about the drum brake slave cylinders? Or the bleeding screws attached to the slave cylinders?
when i bleed the brake lines after replacing the master cylinder, do i need to bleed the LSPV? if so, where do i bleed into?
thank you
There is a little bleeder screw right on the valve. I think I showed it in the video.
I hv isuzu dmax. Carry load 1 ton which is over load. My problem when carry load my rear brake shoe need to change. I mean my be the brake touch the drum during driving.
Will this piece make your rear brake pad to lock up too?
that's what's happening to my 2002 tundra it locks. And this is what I will be replacing next. Hopefully that'll do it.
Mine is a 2008 I do not have that proportion valve.i changed hoses calipers even master cylinder and still locked up after driven around the block what I'm missing !
@@fernandosaldana7777 I would change the brake hoses that goes to your brakes. Over time they can get damage and the fluid won't return back up leaving pressure on your brakes. Start with the rubber ones as they are cheaper to replace.
@@vicka.3696 thanks I did all that and is the same
@@fernandosaldana7777 last thing on my mind would be the abs sensor unit if equipped located under the mster cylynder or by the firewall on passenger side under the hood or the master cylinder it self.
Great video!! I recently noticed that my proportioning valve was not adjusted correctly, did you have the brake dash light on?
No my dash light didn't come on. If yours came on it is because your brake fluid is low and you may have air in your system
Could I get your email or some way to contact you? I have a 2001 tundra exact same as your truck I just hade my shoes and drums replaced but after about a mile of driving my back brakes get hot and start to get tight and eventually I have pull over to let them cool off and release? The new shoes and drums didn’t fix it and I don’t want to replace the master cylinder or booster yet any info would be helpful thanks!
So your drum brakes locks up? Is your truck lifted?
So your drum brakes locks up? Is your truck lifted?
The Other Guy no not lifted it has a leveling kit I just got new shoes and drums but the mechanic says it may be proportioning valve?
The Other Guy in the morning it’s fine but when I get back to my truck after work I’ll drive about a mile and they start getting hot and start to lock up
The Other Guy never got a reply
Thanks soooo mucho for this video
very helpful. mine started leaking yesterday :o(
What a helpful video
Thanks, I learned alot
when reattaching the valve do you have to bleed the brakes?
ZIVA DOBERMAN yes. Always.
Thank you ,video is very informative!
Can someone do me a favor? I replaced the metal brake lines on my 03 and I am not sure which brake line is supposed to go to which port on the proportioning valve. The line comes out of the master cylinder and splits. One line goes to the ABS module and the other goes to the proportioning valve. Then there is one from the ABS module to the other port on the proportioning valve.
You didn't take pictures?
@@theotherguy3083 I did not. But in doing that, I would have to assume that the previous brake line replacement was done correctly. Also, between the junction where the lines go from the cab to the frame and back to the proportioning valve was simple... The upper line went to the upper fitting of the proportioning valve. Easy to remember. A picture of where the lines from the master cylinder down to those elbows would be tough to decipher, so I was going to replace those (splice into them up where the line is in good shape) one at a time. As I lifted the cab off of the frame (for frame replacement) those lines got caught on something and broke off at the same spot and fell on the garage floor. So... Now it was a wild ass guess as to where they go.
Why the frame replacement? Why did the lines just "break off?" Rust. Lots of rust. And brake lines on vehicles tend to rust right at those support clips, so they broke off in the same spot.
It is the wonders of the stupid road salts around here. Karens complain about it being slippery and the only way to shut them up is to spread more salt.
@@paulstandaert5709 lemme see what I can do. I'll make video of mine for you
@@theotherguy3083 Anything that you can do is good. I was only hoping that I could ask someone how it is supposed to be rather than bleed 3 bottles of brake fluid through only to discover that it's hooked up wrong.
It doesn't show you the correct order of connection in the manual they're not that expensive if you don't have one.
Can it be eliminated?
Some people eliminates it. But I will never recommend it.
Just clean it up with water. Water neutralizes brake fluid instantly bud
Uh. . Ok
Technically it's one ton of dirt and 10 trips so there was never 10 tons on the truck total
Thanks for the video. But those valve are very expensive. It cost me almost 400 dollars and i havenot seen nobody fixin them. Why they get damage. O-ring maybe ? If someone knows how to repair one. It would be interesting.
Replace with a manual adj valve Wilwood makes them
Nice information sir thanks 🙏
If your truck is in neutral and the tires are spinning you have other problems than your brakes
It's completely normal for wheels connected to transmission to move when raised it air.. the transmission always has drag ..but not enough to move it with weight of car/truck on ground.
Well firing off the parts Cannon what else could be your problem oh wait you only have one more part to fire from the parts Cannon so that is a perfect example of throwing parts at it or firing the parts Cannon instead of doing some good old diagnostic troubleshooting at least all the parts are new not a good thing because of cheaply made parts are that are not from the dealer
Thanks for info.
Hey! We're kindred spirits! wanna be you tube friends? I have the same truck and the same type of channel! lol
Of*
I'm saying is Toyota Tundras are one ton trucks because they have the they have the parts like every part they have under the truck for anything it's from a semi called he Hino and that's what Toyota called is in
All Toyota vehicles like saying the TRD off-road packages are not made for rock crawling they're made for desert racing that's how they're made for you can't use them for rock crawling but they're not really made for that are made for desert racing man
This video could have been 2 minutes long. Less intro, less talking, LESS RAMBLING! OMG!
Knight85 dayem!!! Can't win for losing!!!
Thanks Other Guy! Sometimes it’s nice to hear other people’s thoughts and how you come to the conclusion. I watched your video today and it helped me figure out mine and I appreciated the explanations. Different strokes for different folks, keep it up .. sad how people need to make rude comments instead of just move on or hit thumbs down. Take care
:)
Can you say that again
I'm just saying I don't get mad please
Raul Bueno none offended
That's a nothing where you compare to a million miles Tundra way they had on TH-cam your Tundra doesn't compare it man will you say you abused it or anything it doesn't matter my dad has a 2003 Tundra and he abuses it more than you cuz I know my Dad pulled up to 18000 pound here in Colorado and he probably pulls up to 15,000 pounds daily
Raul Bueno ok.
Raul Bueno none offended Raul
Raul Bueno
These truck are not designed to pull even 10K lbs. this first generation is at 7,500 lbs. I pulled an 8K pound camper and my stepfather’s truck was screaming to stop. His is a 2001 model well maintained. 92K miles currently
Oh yeah it is man I pulled up to 18000 pounds with a 2003 Toyota Tundra and it did fine what you have Chevy Dodge Ford she was a piece of crap vehicles Toyota comes over build man
Hey man it doesn't matter how much time you put on that truck it would do it my dad has a 2003 Toyota Tundra and a pulled up to 4000 pounds on his bed and he pulled up towed up to 18,000 lb it doesn't matter what kind of load you have it just I don't know where you doing with that truck or I don't know but I know that truck you guys going to have more problems I'm just saying is I put so much load on that truck and it doesn't it does fine that's fine it just I don't know what's going on with yours don't say it's the truck I don't know if it's you or the truck I don't know it just saying is truck is a half ton truck with a 1 ton truck man don't say it's not I have 10 don't say it to 110 but it's a one ton truck man I know what is it man
Wtf did you just say? Lol i dont wat im saying i dont wat
Watch the whole video and you might actually know something
But do you mean what do I say man I'm saying the truck it's not a half ton it's a one ton truck I know for fact it's a one ton truck man cuz I has it frame as a semi basically everything on that truck from the first generation to the 2nd to the 3rd Generation Tundras or overbuilt trucks that's what I'm saying it's that outperform any truck
Raul Bueno I am not understanding what you are trying to convey. Are you saying your truck is a 1 ton truck converted from a tundra?