What an awesome, helpful video. Was beginning to despair that I wouldn't find any quality tutorials for this procedure, and then here you Mr. Adams, saving my day and probably about $850. Thanks man!
I just want to thank you. I did the timing belt on my VW Jetta today and your video was very helpful, I had some trouble because the motor mount is always on the way but because I marked my old belt and then I transferred those marks on to my new belt it made the job easier. Thank you very much.
I made the mistake of not marking the belt, cause I've been working on cars and big trucks for years, so I just took the belt off like normal on a regular vehicle, and didn't watch any video on this until I couldn't get the belt on.
Hi Wayland Adams. I would like to thank very much you once again for the video. I have just done my timing belt change after watching your video several times. it was easy to do everything with the engine support mount out of the car. Being the first time doing this, it was a big hassle for me to install everything with the engine support mount in there. My small hands felt so big when i try to install the tensioner with that big engine support mount. After a couple of tries,I tighten everything without the engine support mount and took a day break "because of engine support mount". luckily the following day with a fresh mind i managed to slide the engine support mount back. I guess only gurus knows how to do it with the engine support mount in there. For beginners like me, you must remove the turbo intercooler hose( where the is a C like clamp) and jack the engine up a little bit and slide it( engine support mount) up from underneath next to that turbo hose.You will also need assistence to pull the engine "a little bit" to front of engine of the car while u slide it up. Thanks Wayland, Keep up the good work.
Thanks, I was a professional VW/Porsche/Audi mechanic for about 16 years back in the 70's and 80's and still only drive them (except for my Dodge 4x4 Diesel Ram PU). My wife has an 02 Passat and I wasn't familiar with the routine. You made it clear as a bell. I went ahead and bought the full kit, as well as a full kit for my 98 Jetta TDI (different procedure, but same basic ideas). Plan on doing them both in the next month. Again, thank you for the fine video.
Hi Farley Thanks for your comments. Your comments are especially meaningful coming from a professional mechanic since that is not my profession. Let me know how the jobs go on your Passat and Jetta. Wayland
I must've watched 4 different videos and this was the best video that I found for setting the timing belt on an engine where the belt snapped and there was no reference marks to be made on the old belt. Thank you so much!
Hey, thanks for the comment, not sure about being a LEGEND but glad you like the video. Had lots of fun making it and hearing from many people from around the world.
The tips you're giving is saving people hours of their lives in trial and error. I'm about to attempt this job soon and this is required viewing for sure! Thank you very much for your advice!
Update: replace the tensioner/idler assembly with a new fixed/manual tensioner, as is used in the Audi 1.8T AMB engine. Great video -- having done this on an AUG and an AMB, I appreciated the clarity of your explanation.
Wayland Adams we took on your “From the Bottom” part and it became a running joke that eased the rest of this build. It was so keen to us making it through this and we appreciate you sharing!
Thank-you very much for making this video. It was extremely helpful. I would like to note that there is a mark on the flywheel to indicate TDC. This is useful if you didn't mark your belt and sprockets. Remove the rubber plug on the driver side of the block (towards the front, lot's of cables in the way). Front driver side but inset/left of the driver's headlight. Once removed you will see a a gear and it's teeth. There is a small indentation line/mark when at TDC. The indentation is parallel to the teeth on the gear. I had to rotate the crank a few time to find it. It's tough to get a line of sight and it's dark. This is best done with plenty of light. Also, my plug was missing. If you see a hole with a gear in it, there is supposed to be a rubber plug there.
Thank you so much for sharing this with us. I've had a 2000 Volkswagen jetta 1.8T setting in my driveway for about 18 months. I ordered the complete kit to replace everything because the waterpump had went out on me. I got sick with double pneumonia so that set me back a year or a little more. I decided about 3 months ago to tackle it, cause it's such a good car. When I got to the part of putting the belt on, I just couldn't get it on, I've even went and got a belt stretcher for this, but didn't want to use it cause it would seem to me that stretching it would make it a little too big. I was so mad at this, that I actually thought about putting a bullet in the block and saying the heck with it. I've been putting it off and putting it off, just hoping to see something different that would help me. I saw your video just now, and this has put a light on the subject. No one has ever mentioned taking a little slack out by backing the crank a hair. It makes perfect sense to me, and I feel like such a dunba@$ for not thinking of this. Again, thank you so much. I'm going to head out in a little bit and put this belt on. I truly appreciate it and hope you are blessed for doing this work, and showing a mechanic of 35 years, a new trick for an old dog. 😆
Hi Jeff - Thanks for your comments. I hope you have been successful in getting the belt on. Like you, I was really frustrated about the belt just not fitting and being so hard to get on. That is why I finally determined to mark the belt and then back off the crank in order to get the belt on. What I have seen many people do is put the belt on where they can fit it and end up with the timing being off by one or more teeth. Sometime after moking the video, I was changing the timing belt on my Lexus. To my surprise, the belt came pre marked for the crank and both camshafts. This allowed me to start the belt at the back camshaft, back off the front camshaft a hair to get the belt on and return to the timing mark and then back of the crank to get the belt there. It made is real easy. Let me know how your repair went.
OMG, thank you very much I just want to do this job next week to my ttq Mk1 myself because I cannot pass this job to others, and I cannot trust them either and paying a lot but maybe destroy my car later Your guidance is PERFECT, thank you so much and good luck for me I appreciated
Thank you sir you're a gentleman and a scholar my name is Will 40 plus years as a heavy equipment mechanic and a commercial fishing vessel engineer it's always nice to know the little nuances you are a great help thank you so much
Thanks for the tip on removing the tensioner first. The book wanted the tensioner pinned and then slip the belt off. Well the idler can't go back far enough for that. Also this was identical to a 2002 Jetta. Thanks mate.
You're very welcome. You found the same thing I did, the book was calling for the tensioner to be pinned but the belt was almost impossible to removed that way. Hope you repair went well.
im going to attempt this without removing the engine.. im only in highschool and my 1.8t gti is my first car haha. i cant afford the price a shop will charge me, so wish me luck.. Thanks for the video!!
Jorge Good luck with this. It is possible to do in the car using the same procedures as in my video. I did it outside the car for two reason. I had to change the head also plus I couldn't really show the things in the video with the engine in the car. Good Luck!!!
As long as you make the marks like he did no chance of fing it up. Once assembly just hand crank with a 19mm 3 complete revolutions to make sure the timing marks are accurate. Also get the engine mount and engine bracket to mount out of the way to give you plenty of room. You'll need an engine hoist or can put a jack under the engine oil pan. I would fold up a towel to help protect between jack and pan. You'll need to move the engine up and down a little to help get the mount out of the way.
+Jose Escobar Thanks for the note, glad it was a help. Many years ago I use to travel to South America. My stop in Peru was Lima. Maybe someday I will make it back. Happy New Year.
Very informative video and well done! I have my engine out and have a full kit ordered. I just wish I had made the marks on the belt before I removed it along with the water pump. Too late now......lol
+Tom Retired Pilot Tom, all is not lost, I describe a way to establish the marks if you did mark first. Also, I had someone write in and say the following. "Hi Wayland. In the meanwhile I changed my timing belt and I can confirm that when counting the teeth on the timing belt that if tooth n° 1 is on the camshaft timing mark then tooth n° 68 is exactly opposite to the bump on the lower crankshaft sprocket. Indeed it is not that important but it is a 'double check' to verify if you have exactly 'copied' the marks from the old belt to the new belt. At last counting the teeth applies only to this specific type of engine !The only thing I could not do was 'blocking' the piston of the old tensioner since the piston shaft was twisted in the housing. With the engine in the car I did not find any method to turn the piston shaft in way that the hole in the piston shaft did match with the hole in the tensioner. So what I did was to first loosen the tension roller. No problem since I had to replace the tensioner anyway. Even when one wants to re-use the tensioner it would have been possible to compress it again in a bench vice.As I earlier stated your video was an encouragement and a great help to me in doing this job myself.Best regards from Belgium !Alfred" Maybe you can see all the comments but I copied it here anyway. Just have to make sure we are talking the same engine. I am a retired pilot also. Good luck in getting your engine back together
Wayland, Thank you sir. I'm currently in the middle of doing my water-pump/t-belt on my '03 GLS 1.8T (AWP) 1st 1.8T belt I've ever done.. Ive done MANY of these on Mk2 Jetta's & Golfs & GTI's, same principle just lack of an idler-pulley where the water-pump is. I'm gonna take the hydraulic tensioner off and seat the belt (Ive got my marks set) then go about the install. Big Help!! Thank you!
Hi Thanks for letting me know. Hope this job goes well for you. Are you doing this with the engine in the car? I shot the video with the engine out of the car just to get better visibility to what is going on but you can certainly do this in the car. Let me know how it goes.
Wayland Adams my engine is still in the car...i am also @ the same time... 1. Deleting my PCV/ SAi secondary air injection 2. Replacing my thermostat plus upgraded to aluminum housing 3. Replacing my struts/upgrading my control arm bushings to R32 spec. This GLS has been from Richmond,Va. to Savannah to New Orleans & Houma, Louisiana in the past 3yrs. Lots of I10 & I95 miles plus I64 as well...
If your changing it in the car. You can loosen the belt by taking out "partially creating slack" the water pump. This will give you enough slack to slip the belt off the pulley. Once off disassemble as usual. If your going to do this, drain the coolant, and take out the thermostat (replace thermo and housing too) to drain the void behind the pump. It will help keep things cleaner. When you put it back together, put the water pump in last, sliding the belt over it as you carefully tighten the pump up. Totally agree with the full kit, do it all the first time. Belt, tensioner, pullies, pump, thermostat, housing...etc.. All this stuff is buried on a 1.8t VW.
What I did is loosen the idler pulley next to the tentioner and had just enough slack to squeeze a new belt on ;) after that I pulled the pin and rotated the crank 3 complete revolutions to ensure the timing marks were accurate
I do these alot, it works better if you install the belt over the cam shaft first and then use clamping clips to hold the belt onto the cam shaft while you slip the belt over the crank shaft. Then you slip the belt over the water pump because the water pump can spin without going out of time. Its that easy.
Exceptionally well done video and narrative. Only change I would make is refraining from applying solvent-based paint (if it is...?) to the rubber belt just to be sure the rubber isn't compromised at all. Maybe chalk would be a good alternative
Thanks for the comment. I probably should have said something about that but I didn't used a solvent based paint. The paint I used is not harmful to the belt like solvent based paint would be. But good point and those that follow my video will benefit from your comment.
Muy buen video, no se inglés pero basta con el vídeo para saber que piezas retirar y como quitarlas o reemplazarlas si dañar nada que no tenga que mover.
Thank you for this! Please do more videos with the 1.8T as I have one in my A4 and these are always the type of videos I look for when doing projects on my car. Great video.
Hi Jarrod Thanks for your comments. Mechanics is just a hobby for me and I sold my GTI with the 1.8T shortly after I made the video. But I am always looking for other videos I can make. They are fun to do. Thanks again
Muy bueno , el tornillo pasante para comprimir el tensor una idea genial, lo voy a usar esta semana tengo que hacer una distribución de un audi con ese motor creo que es el mismo sistema , gracias saludos
Gracias por tus comentarios. Espero que tu trabajo en el Audi vaya bien. Es lo mismo para muchos modelos de Audi, así que buena suerte. Déjame saber como va.
wow thank you for this video, i am currently filming a youtube video on how to do this timing belt, and i am stuck at the belt tension... this video cleared it up for me, if its okay with you i would like to put your video link in my description box. this way my viewers have a better reference!
Awesome job Wayland, love ya style ! one of the best vids I have seen on cambelt replacement ...................most of them are not the full deal. P.S. it also makes a BIG difference with the engine the ground, I think this way will save MANY swear words haha
Hi Blair - Thanks for the comments, I appreciate it. I had a lot of fun making making the video and then corresponding with many who have questions or comments. You're the first to comment on liking having the engine out of the car. Others have commented that I should have done it with the engine in the car. I purposely did it this way so I could show more detail of the actual process. I think having the detail helps when changing the belt in the car which is very possible to do. As you know, it is very tight with the engine in the car and would be impossible to get very detailed video. Thanks again.
Ya welcome Wayland..............its just that I am 'hot off the press' just having done the cam belt on my Isuzu trooper 4x4 on saturday {sorry bit on sunday} .............not having ever done a belt. I did not find the accurate info which you so easily display combined with the eager attitude you share. Yes engine out would or is the answer, makes an extremely attentive hard job a hundred percent easier, that is if the user knows whats he is doing. SO Thankyou Sir Wayland Adams for your style.
Hi, Thanks for the comments and glad you like my video. I have traveled to Germany several times mainly in the Hamburg area and Munich. We are hoping to come back later this year. Best regards from New Mexico, USA
I also have to say great tutorial with some hot tips! Also your articulation was very easy to understand. Thanks for that and best regards from germany!
+Tim M. Hi Tim - Thanks so much for the note. I am glad you like the video and appreciate your complements. I have been to Germany many times and really enjoy it. I am hoping to get back there later this year. Regards from New Mexico, USA
Wayland adams u are the man explain all the work on astra very good mate but I want to know more work on to new astra which is 1.7 cdti 2012 plate hatch back anyway thank you verymuch mate keep it up
I am not aware that we have that car/engine available in the US. I did look a little online and found that just like the 1.8 Turbo in VW it is an interference engine. That means the valves will be damaged if the timing belt breaks so it is very important to change it as recommended. While I don't have access to this particular engine I would think you could follow the basic steps I outlined. I just really found it useful to mark the old belt and transfer to the new one. I assume you have also looked online at some of the instructions there for changing the belt. Good luck.
If you're doing this on your car, follow these instructions but install the tensioner WITHOUT the small roller pulley first. The tensioner bolts will destroy the threads if there is too much pressure. Then push away the belt and put in the little tensioner pulley.
James James that's what I did .I was having a hell of a time getting the tensioner in with it on. got it all back together and realized the cam timing is one notch off. I about blew a gasket. is there any way to fix this without taking the whole thing as apart?
yes, remove the camshaft pulley, get it lined up on the correct tooth and slide it back onto the keyway on the camshaft. You may have to turn the crank slightly but only about the same as you see it moved in this vid. you don't have to disassemble anything else. I've found it is much easier to remove the cam pulley to perform all timing belt maintenance. ..After lining up the timing marks of course.
Yes great video it's the one I've been looking for... BUTwhat do I do if somehow ive LOST the Mark's on the belt that I had due to negligence and just not knowingly throwing the old belt away...how do I find top.dead center and get my timing Mark's lined back up so that I can safely.start my car again???????
Hi Tommy Mac - So at 5:33 in my video, there is a discussion of how to put on the timing belt without marks on the belt. But it assumes the crankshaft and camshaft are already on the timing marks. What it the position of your crank and cam. Are they on the timing marks? If so, you can just follow the video for that section starting at 5:33. If the crank and cam are not on the timing marks then you have a bit of problem. This is an interference engine meaning the top of pistons will impact the valve when timing is off. So did you just pull the belt off before turning to the timing marks. If so, I would just put the belt back on the best you can and then turn the engine to the timing marks. Chances are you will be off one tooth but it won't damage the engine. Then you can adjust the belt as described in the video. I did have one viewer write in and offer this. "Hi Wayland. In the meanwhile I changed my timing belt and I can confirm that when counting the teeth on the timing belt that if tooth n° 1 is on the camshaft timing mark then tooth n° 68 is exactly opposite to the bump on the lower crankshaft sprocket. Indeed it is not that important but it is a 'double check' to verify if you have exactly 'copied' the marks from the old belt to the new belt." I haven't verified this but you could count the teeth on the belts and put the marks on it. If you let me know the exact state of your crank and cam with relations to the timing marks, I could offer some more complete steps. By definition, when the crank is on the timing mark, you are at TDC. If you want to check that, one way is to remove the spark plug on #1 cylinder and using a long screw driver on top of the piston, you can tell when it is at the top. You just need to be careful about turning the crank without turning the camshaft. Let me know how else I can help. Wayland
hey Wayland, don't get me wrong. I don't think I would've got in on any other way. seems whatever position I tried to but the belt in when I lifted up the idler pulley either the crank or the camshaft moved so I'd put them pack and start over I thought in finally had it but maybe it moved when I was under the car putting the tensioner on. I also took that little roller off the tensioner. it made it easier. the thought has crossed my mind, although unlikely that the cam shaft timing marks were missing marked at the factory. I wish I could see the valves .
Chris - no problem I don't think I took it wrong. I just wanted others to understand that the video is still probably the best way to change the belt even with the engine still in the car. I can only imagine how hard it must be. I think taking the little roller off is a good suggestion. I missed that when doing it on the engine out of the car. I had plenty of room and leverage to just hold the tensioner where it needed to be without removing the little roller. Thanks so much for your comments. I am sure others following my channel appreciate your insights.
Great video... I CAN NOT get the timing belt over the cam sprocket on my MK1 TT no matter what. I will try putting the tensioner on last. But it looks easy with the engine out of the car.
Hi George Thanks for the comment. Hopefully this will help getting the timing belt on your MK1. It is the same problem I was having. In my case, the timing belt had broken requiring rebuild of the head. Given that, it was easier to just take the engine out. I chose to do the video while the engine was out so you could see the detail better. But following the same steps you should be able to complete this with the engine in the car. Good Luck! Let me know how it turns out.
Wayland Adams I will let you know. There is no cam lock that I know of like on the 1.9 tdi. How tight was it getting it on without the tensioner and how hard was it to line the holes up once the belt was on? I have my dad as a helper and negotiating the motor mount isn’t that hard if you keep the mount “floating”’while working the bolts.
@@2747scout I found it real easy to put the belt on without the tensioner on. The key to getting it lined up are the marks on the belt. Hopefully you have been able to mark your belt. As shown in the video, you may need to turn the crank slightly when putting the belt to get the marks in the right place and then move the crank back to the timing marks on the engine and then put on the tensioner. If you can do this, then everything is lined up. I am not familiar with your engine to know if there are any specific changes but using marks on the timing belt can be used on just about any engine. Good luck.
Excellent video and tutorial! Any other items that you would suggest to replace as long as you are in there? Spending a little extra money on a couple of items beats doing the whole job over in a week or two because something that you had apart failed two wees later.
Glad you liked the video. I mentioned most of things to change in the video. Definitely replace the water pump, the belt tensioner and all the rollers/idler pulleys. As you say, it is better to do them while there. Aside from that, you might check your alternator. With the drive belt off the alternator you can rotate it to see if there are any rough spots or noise as it rotates. Good luck in getting your car back on the road.
Hi Michael - Thanks for the comments. I am not aware of such a test. Obviously if the belt tensioner is doing it's job, everything will be kept in spec. But please be aware, I am not a professional mechanic that may have access to such a test.
Thanks for the note, glad you liked the video. You must really like the VW Golf to have had so many models. It's a sweet car. Thanks شكرا على الملاحظة ، سعداء أحببت الفيديو. يجب أن تحب حقا أن يكون فولكسفاغن غولف العديد من النماذج. إنها سيارة حلوة. شكر
Finally a useful fucking video. Nice angles, explains everything. Wouldn't believe how many vids suck. Just one thing. You obviously had a cameraman. Shouldve used that extra hand xD
Thanks for the comments. Yes, I did have a cameraman (my son). That with post editing and narration make a much better video. Explain a little more what you mean by using the extra hand.
Thanks for this excellent tutorial. I just have a question because I learned when you have replace the new timing belt, you have to rotate the crankshaft on two laps to be sure the marks are still align, What do you think about that? Regards from France
I say a little mistake because the two laps you have to do are to check if the camshaft pulley repere is still align with engine repere. No report with marks you did on the timing belt.
Hi - yes, that is the recommended procedure that after you get it all back together that you rotate the engine two turns on the crankshaft. I cover that right at the end of the video. Just be aware that when you rotate the engine you are looking for alignment of the timing marks on the gears and on the case. The timing marks you put on the belt will no longer align and that is okay. It is the timing marks on the gear and case.that are important.
Thanks for the video. I have an 01 VW bora, with AEH engine. I can't seem to find the mark on the crank pulley. I read there is a mark on the torque converter which can be seen through a small window on the gearbox area. I have used this mark to do my timing but after rotating the engine, the marks are off by 1 or 2 teeth and I get a code 00515. Is there anything else I can do?
Hi Paul. Sorry your are having this problem. I am not totally familiar with that engine as I am not a professional mechanic. But having said that I do have a couple of ideas. Unless it is real easy to reference the timing mark at the torque converter, I would paint a mark on your crank pulley and case. Just line up the mark at the torque converter and then paint a mark on the pulley and case. It is not critical the location, just that they are adjacent to each other. The problem of being off by one or two teeth is a common problem and the reason I stress marking the belt. In this case, I will assume you don’t have your belt marked. Install the belt and mark the belt at the mark you put on the crank pulley and at the camshaft. Rotate the engine. If you are still off by the one or two teeth, take the belt off. Move the mark on the belt at the crank the one or two teeth closer to the camshaft mark and reinstall the belt. You will probably have to back the crank off a little bit to get the marks lined up and then move it back to the timing marks. That is because the belt is so tight when everything is in the right place. Try that see if it works for you. Let me know if I can be of further help.
@@waylandadams2326 Thanks so much for this great piece of advice. I will do exactly what U have recommended. My engine is similar to the golf mk4s with 1.6 litre, 8 valves and shares parts with the 1.8 and 2.0 engines.
I have 1.8t 20v engine (auq). I think my belt jumped and im gonna change timing belt n waterpump and tensionee ofc! But the " problem " is that i dont have the belt cover which has marks on it.. So how can i set the timing right? #1 piston to TDC and then just set the cam marks? Sorry about my bad english😂🤘🏼
yes, you can make sure #1 piston is at TDC and then set the cam on the marks. I hope you haven't damaged the valves on your engine which can happen if the timing belt breaks or slips significantly. Once you have #1 piston at TDC, I would place a mark on the sprocket and the engine casing for a reference. Good luck on this repair. Let me know how it goes.
I got mine all back together and the cam mark is one notch off to the left. is there anyway to fix this without taking it all apart again? I had a hell of a time getting the tensioner in and don't want to have to tackle that again.
Chris - I haven't done this procedure with the engine still in the car but can imagine it is a bear. I don't know of any way to change without tearing it apart again. Sorry I don't have a good suggestion. When I made the video I assumed it would still make the procedure easier do to in the car that doing it some of the other ways being suggested. I hope that is the case even though it was still very hard. Good luck.
Obrigado por seus comentários. Fico feliz que você possa entender o que eu estava fazendo sem entender minhas palavras. Espero que tudo tenha corrido bem. (Thanks for your comments. I am glad you could understand what I was doing without understanding my words. Hope everything went well)
An awesome thing to know, would be how many teeth are between the two timing marks. That way, anybody who picks up a new belt can just put a mark on one tooth, then count however-many-teeth and put the second mark.
Hi Lane One of my viewers indicated that you could count the teeth to make sure the marks are correct. This is what he said. "Hi Wayland. In the meanwhile I changed my timing belt and I can confirm that when counting the teeth on the timing belt that if tooth n° 1 is on the camshaft timing mark then tooth n° 68 is exactly opposite to the bump on the lower crankshaft sprocket. So this is another way to get the marks on the new belt. Good luck
Wayland Adams thank you very much. The problem I have been having is that once the belt get tensioned, either the cam or crank sprocket turns a little. Though not until it has been run for several minutes. This should remedy that. Thank you very much for your support and quick response.
The purpose of marking the belts is to make sure you get the right number of belt teeth between the camshaft and crankshaft. When it is done right, the tension on the belt is pretty tight on the right side. If you don't mark the belt it is very easy to be off by one or two teeth. As I said in the video, when you mark the belt, you can back off the crankshaft a little bit in order to get the belt on according to the marks. Then advance the crankshaft to the timing position and everything will be set correctly. So the marks are a reference which help big time in getting the new belt on in the proper place. Does that answer your questions?
Hi Jesus I have never replaced those seals. Here are a couple of links talking about it. th-cam.com/video/8lGbzmaKdqM/w-d-xo.html www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/453998-Front-Crank-Seal-should-I-bother-replacing-while-doing-Timing-belt You can probably find some other information about changing seals by googling on the subject. Good Luck.
Hello Wayland,Do you know at what number of tooth you put the mark on the crankshaft sprocket. Some descriptions say that when the tooth on the TDC-mark of the camshaft is number 1 (on the belt) then the tooth (on the belt) on the cranshaft sprocket is nr. 68 (exactly on the location on the lower sprocket as shown in your video). Can you confirm this ?Regards,Alfred
+Alfred Hi Alfred. I hope I understand your question. If not, feel free to write back. ( see second paragraph) I am not aware of any numbers on the teeth of the crankshaft sprocket. The timing marks are on the crankshaft pulley and the lower timing belt cover. The timing marks at the camshaft are on the camshaft sprocket and the case. If you go to the front of my video you will see what I mean. As I said in the video it is important to make sure the timing marks are aligned prior to removing the pulley and lower cover. Once the timing marks are aligned, then remove the pulley and cover being careful not to turn the engine. At this point, it doesn't really matter which tooth you mark assuming you didn't turn the engine while removing the pulley. Just mark a convenient tooth and the case adjacent. These marks are just for reference so you don't have to put the pulley back on to check timing. It is important that you don't turn the engine without the timing belt in place. This engine is what they call an interference engine meaning the pistons will strike the valves when not correctly timed or the timing belt breaks. So I wrote the above comment and then read your question again. I think I missed what you are asking. My video assumes that you mark the sprocket and old belt before removing it. And then transfer the marks to the new belt. Using this method doesn't really depend on counting belt teeth since everything is relative to where you placed the marks with the old belt on. That is why I did it that way. Now if you didn't mark the old belt or the belt broke you can still use my method. Do everything at the first of the video to get the engine and camshaft on the timing marks before you remove the pulley and lower cover. And then when you remove the pulley and lower cover put some reference marks on the sprocket and case. These are the marks at the top (12 o clock)of the crankshaft sprocket and adjacent case. These marks are important so you know that the engine is in time. Than take your new belt and put it on the camshaft. At this point I would put a mark on the belt at the camshaft timing mark. From there put the belt over the water pump pulley and down to the crankshaft. What I found is that I had to back off the crankshaft pulley (counter clockwise) just a little bit (one tooth or less referenced to the timing marks you put at the top of the sprocket and adjacent case), put the belt on and move the sprocket back (clockwise) to the timing marks at the top of the sprocket. You will know your are right if you turn anymore clockwise you will also start turning the camshaft. At this point, I would put a mark on the belt and the sprocket. This is done with the tensioner off the engine. I never really counted the teeth on the belt. Then put on the tensioner and turn the engine over a few times. The timing marks should stay lined up. Just be aware that once you turn the engine over a few times, the marks on the belt will not line up again but the timing marks will. So I don't know if the number 68 is right or not. Just to fill you in on the complete story, the engine I was using in the video had suffered a broken timing belt. So the head had to be rebuilt. So I went through the process above to establish where the marks on the belt needed to be. Hope this makes sense. If not feel free to ask again. Wayland
+Wayland Adams , Hi Wayland. In the meanwhile I changed my timing belt and I can confirm that when counting the teeth on the timing belt that if tooth n° 1 is on the camshaft timing mark then tooth n° 68 is exactly opposite to the bump on the lower crankshaft sprocket. Indeed it is not that important but it is a 'double check' to verify if you have exactly 'copied' the marks from the old belt to the new belt. At last counting the teeth applies only to this specific type of engine !The only thing I could not do was 'blocking' the piston of the old tensioner since the piston shaft was twisted in the housing. With the engine in the car I did not find any method to turn the piston shaft in way that the hole in the piston shaft did match with the hole in the tensioner. So what I did was to first loosen the tension roller. No problem since I had to replace the tensioner anyway. Even when one wants to re-use the tensioner it would have been possible to compress it again in a bench vice.As I earlier stated your video was an encouragement and a great help to me in doing this job myself.Best regards from Belgium !Alfred
Hi There are a couple of things you can do. If you have it all back together, it is suggested that you turn the crankshaft around twice (2 revolutions). After the 2 revolutions, check the timing marks on the crankshaft and camshaft against the marks on the case If they are both aligned, then you are correctly timed. If they are not aligned, then you need to adjust the timing. It is not uncommon to be off one tooth when you put the belt on without marks on the belt. If this is the case, align the timing marks at the crankshaft with the mark on the case. Then mark the belt at that point. Up at the camshaft mark the belt at the timing mark on the case. You can then reinstall the belt using the marks. Again, rotate the engine twice and check that the marks are still aligned. Just note, that if you mark and install the belt then rotate the engine, the marks on the belt will no longer be aligned after the two rotations but that is okay and normal. Just make sure the alignment marks on the camshaft and crankshaft are align with the marks on the case.
Please help! I'm midway through doing the belt on my 1.8t. I can't get the lower timing mark aligned when I tension, its always a bit behind tdc is this correct?
That doesn't sound right. Do you mark your belt? I found that I needed to turn the crankshaft counterclockwise slightly to get the belt in the right place, then turn clockwise to tension the belt. You are welcome to call me and we can talk some more if needed. 505 353 2255.
I'm trying to do this fix but I can't get the crankshaft pulley and the camshaft pulley marks to line up at the timing marks at the same time. The marks are way off and not 180 degrees The engine runs good but needs a water pump . This car is new to me but I can tell the belt has been replaced at one time it's a Napa belt . Any idea what I'm doing wrong? Great video by the way. Thanks
Hi Mark - I just got back in town from Christmas trip and saw your message. I am assuming that from your comments, the car is still running but needs a water pump replacement. If the engine is running fine it means that the valve timing is very close to correct. If it were very far off, the engine wouldn't run very well if at all and the valves could be damaged but that doesn't seem to be the case with your engine. At around 50 seconds into my video, it shows the timing marks lined up. Just be aware that the camshaft rotates half the speed of the crankshaft. I suggest you rotate the engine to get the camshaft marks lined up and then check the crankshaft marks. If they are not lined up as shown in the video, maybe you could describe what you see at the crankshaft marks. It could be that when the previous belt was installed that is was off a tooth or two That is easy to do and the big reason behind my suggestion to mark the belt. I will be glad to help further if you haven't figured it and can supply some more detail. Good Luck. Wayland
Wayland Adams Thanks for replying, yes the car does run fine but needs a new water pump. When I try to get the motor to TDC no matter how many revolutions I can't get the crankshaft to line up at same time and it's a long ways off and more than a tooth or two. I'm wondering if the pulleys could of been taken off at one time and put on wrong? Could I just go through this process of marking everything with the cam at the timing mark as long as nothing gets moved?Thanks for helping
Mark That is really strange. The pulleys are only supposed to go on one way. But yes, you can follow the procedures, marking the belt at corresponding marks on the sprockets. So, I would line up the camshaft timing marks on the sprocket and engine block, then pay real close attention as you remove the crankshaft pulling and cover. At about 1 minute 30 seconds into the video I show marking a crankshaft tooth and the corresponding position on the block. This is real important to do since the timing marks have been removed with the pulley and cover. Then just make sure these marks stay lined up through out the procedure. You will note in the video that I mark the belt at the timing mark on the camshaft, but at the crankshaft the mark on the belt is not at the timing mark. But that is okay since you just want to keep the same relative position. It doesn't show very well in the video but at the place where I mark the belt at the crankshaft, there is a little knob on the sprocket. This knob is what aligns the pulley in only one way with crankshaft. I just picked that place but you could pick any place where the belt is engaged on the sprocket and mark both the belt and the sprocket. It sounds like you have a pretty good understanding of what needs to be done. But if you think you need more help let me know. If you want to give me your phone number and/or email address we could talk and/or exchange photos. Good luck on getting this done. Wayland
and this is how to get your timing worse and worse tooh by tooth xD use the factory timing marks on the camshaft sprocket and the vibration damper pulley/cover. belts stretch and might force the new one to start where the old one was done stretching. now its going to stretch further..
Hi, Thanks for your comments. I agree completely that one must use the timing marks when installing a new belt. While timing belts may stretch a little bit, they are specifically manufactured to minimize stretch. But, regardless of any stretch, the number of teeth on the belt between the camshaft timing mark and the crank timing mark remains constant. The reason I suggest marking the belt is to aid in getting the belt on correctly but not a substitute for using the timing marks. What I have found is people get the timing off by one tooth because the belt is too tight to get in the right position. The marks on the belt allow you to back off the crank a little bit, get the belt in the right position and then return the crank to the timing mark. Once the belt is installed with the tensioner in place, it is recommend to turn the crank 2 revolutions and checking the timing marks. At this point, the marks on the belt are no longer aligned but the timing marks should be. If not, the belt must be redone. I tried to emphasize several times in the video that the timing marks are what is important. I have just found that marking the belt as I suggest allows me to get the belt on right the very first time. Without the marks on the belt, it is so easy to get off by one or more teeth. Thanks again and emphasizing the importance of the timing marks. They are the only thing that counts.
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What an awesome, helpful video. Was beginning to despair that I wouldn't find any quality tutorials for this procedure, and then here you Mr. Adams, saving my day and probably about $850. Thanks man!
Hi Terence - Glad you found the video helpful and thanks for the comments. Wayland
Great video. Congrats! A job done by a true professional and explained in detail in just 13 minutes...
I just want to thank you.
I did the timing belt on my VW Jetta today and your video was very helpful, I had some trouble because the motor mount is always on the way but because I marked my old belt and then I transferred those marks on to my new belt it made the job easier.
Thank you very much.
I made the mistake of not marking the belt, cause I've been working on cars and big trucks for years, so I just took the belt off like normal on a regular vehicle, and didn't watch any video on this until I couldn't get the belt on.
Hi Wayland Adams. I would like to thank very much you once again for the video. I have just done my timing belt change after watching your video several times. it was easy to do everything with the engine support mount out of the car. Being the first time doing this, it was a big hassle for me to install everything with the engine support mount in there. My small hands felt so big when i try to install the tensioner with that big engine support mount. After a couple of tries,I tighten everything without the engine support mount and took a day break "because of engine support mount". luckily the following day with a fresh mind i managed to slide the engine support mount back. I guess only gurus knows how to do it with the engine support mount in there. For beginners like me, you must remove the turbo intercooler hose( where the is a C like clamp) and jack the engine up a little bit and slide it( engine support mount) up from underneath next to that turbo hose.You will also need assistence to pull the engine "a little bit" to front of engine of the car while u slide it up. Thanks Wayland, Keep up the good work.
Thanks, I was a professional VW/Porsche/Audi mechanic for about 16 years back in the 70's and 80's and still only drive them (except for my Dodge 4x4 Diesel Ram PU). My wife has an 02 Passat and I wasn't familiar with the routine. You made it clear as a bell. I went ahead and bought the full kit, as well as a full kit for my 98 Jetta TDI (different procedure, but same basic ideas). Plan on doing them both in the next month. Again, thank you for the fine video.
Hi Farley Thanks for your comments. Your comments are especially meaningful coming from a professional mechanic since that is not my profession. Let me know how the jobs go on your Passat and Jetta. Wayland
I must've watched 4 different videos and this was the best video that I found for setting the timing belt on an engine where the belt snapped and there was no reference marks to be made on the old belt. Thank you so much!
Hi Randy Thanks for the note. Glad it was helpful. Good luck on your project. Wayland
This man is a LEGEND for making this video. Thank you so much!
Hey, thanks for the comment, not sure about being a LEGEND but glad you like the video. Had lots of fun making it and hearing from many people from around the world.
The tips you're giving is saving people hours of their lives in trial and error.
I'm about to attempt this job soon and this is required viewing for sure! Thank you very much for your advice!
Mr Wayland Adams, you are fantastic person. Thank you for this.
I saw a lot of videos already on this subject but this one is the most comprehensive to me !Thank a lot !!!!!!!
+Al B Glad you enjoyed the video and thanks for the comment. I had fun doing this video.
Brilliant video of how to put the new belt on. Thank you. These details are always neglected in other videos.
Thanks for the comments, I appreciate it.
Update: replace the tensioner/idler assembly with a new fixed/manual tensioner, as is used in the Audi 1.8T AMB engine.
Great video -- having done this on an AUG and an AMB, I appreciated the clarity of your explanation.
Thanks John, Appreciate the comment.
From the bottom. THis whole video was so great. THank you! Saved my brother and I a lot of headache today!
Thanks for your comments. Glad you enjoyed the video and found it helpful.
Wayland Adams we took on your “From the Bottom” part and it became a running joke that eased the rest of this build. It was so keen to us making it through this and we appreciate you sharing!
@@xrossfader Glad you were able to make a running joke and finish your project.
Thank-you very much for making this video. It was extremely helpful.
I would like to note that there is a mark on the flywheel to indicate TDC. This is useful if you didn't mark your belt and sprockets. Remove the rubber plug on the driver side of the block (towards the front, lot's of cables in the way). Front driver side but inset/left of the driver's headlight. Once removed you will see a a gear and it's teeth. There is a small indentation line/mark when at TDC. The indentation is parallel to the teeth on the gear. I had to rotate the crank a few time to find it. It's tough to get a line of sight and it's dark. This is best done with plenty of light. Also, my plug was missing. If you see a hole with a gear in it, there is supposed to be a rubber plug there.
Thank you so much for sharing this with us. I've had a 2000 Volkswagen jetta 1.8T setting in my driveway for about 18 months. I ordered the complete kit to replace everything because the waterpump had went out on me. I got sick with double pneumonia so that set me back a year or a little more.
I decided about 3 months ago to tackle it, cause it's such a good car. When I got to the part of putting the belt on, I just couldn't get it on, I've even went and got a belt stretcher for this, but didn't want to use it cause it would seem to me that stretching it would make it a little too big. I was so mad at this, that I actually thought about putting a bullet in the block and saying the heck with it. I've been putting it off and putting it off, just hoping to see something different that would help me. I saw your video just now, and this has put a light on the subject. No one has ever mentioned taking a little slack out by backing the crank a hair. It makes perfect sense to me, and I feel like such a dunba@$ for not thinking of this. Again, thank you so much. I'm going to head out in a little bit and put this belt on. I truly appreciate it and hope you are blessed for doing this work, and showing a mechanic of 35 years, a new trick for an old dog. 😆
Hi Jeff - Thanks for your comments. I hope you have been successful in getting the belt on. Like you, I was really frustrated about the belt just not fitting and being so hard to get on. That is why I finally determined to mark the belt and then back off the crank in order to get the belt on. What I have seen many people do is put the belt on where they can fit it and end up with the timing being off by one or more teeth. Sometime after moking the video, I was changing the timing belt on my Lexus. To my surprise, the belt came pre marked for the crank and both camshafts. This allowed me to start the belt at the back camshaft, back off the front camshaft a hair to get the belt on and return to the timing mark and then back of the crank to get the belt there. It made is real easy. Let me know how your repair went.
Very straightforward and easy to understand, extremely helpful for me!!! Thank you very much I truly appreciate you!!! 2001 Audi TT Roadster
OMG, thank you very much I just want to do this job next week to my ttq Mk1 myself because I cannot pass this job to others, and I cannot trust them either and paying a lot but maybe destroy my car later
Your guidance is PERFECT, thank you so much and good luck for me
I appreciated
Thanks for your comments and good luck with your car. Let me know how it works out for you
Thank you sir you're a gentleman and a scholar my name is Will 40 plus years as a heavy equipment mechanic and a commercial fishing vessel engineer it's always nice to know the little nuances you are a great help thank you so much
Hi Will Thanks for your comment. I am sure you have plenty of tips from your many years of experience. Glad I was ab;e to provide some helpful hints.
The one and only thing I did differently instead of using a piece of wire to tie up the tensioner pulley I used a poly tie or a wire tie what have you
Still a legendary video 2020+ thank you for a clean-cut timing belt video!
Hi Thanks so much for the compliment. Happy new year. Wayland
Thankyou agian. You saved me $2k in 2018. Watched again for refresher for the next timing chain service. Very helpful. McC
Hey, thanks for the comment. Good luck on your next job. Let me know how it turns out. Wayland
just an unbelievable helpful video well done and thanks for taking the time to help us
Tony - Glad you enjoyed the video. Thanks for your comments
thank you so much. clearest, most easy to follow video I've come across yet.
Hi
Thanks so much for the comment. Glad the video helped, I had fun making it.
Excellent narration & Video.
Thanks for the comment, glad you enjoyed the video
I will be using your video to change timing belt on my 1.8t Audi S3, very well explained and you make it seem very straight forward.
Fantastic video. Easily the clearest instructions I've managed to find for this
Mark, Thanks for the comments, glad you enjoyed the video. Wayland
Thanks for the tip on removing the tensioner first. The book wanted the tensioner pinned and then slip the belt off. Well the idler can't go back far enough for that. Also this was identical to a 2002 Jetta. Thanks mate.
You're very welcome. You found the same thing I did, the book was calling for the tensioner to be pinned but the belt was almost impossible to removed that way. Hope you repair went well.
excellent tutorial, thanks for taking the time to make it
+Steve Richardson Thanks, glad you enjoyed it.
im going to attempt this without removing the engine.. im only in highschool and my 1.8t gti is my first car haha. i cant afford the price a shop will charge me, so wish me luck.. Thanks for the video!!
Jorge Good luck with this. It is possible to do in the car using the same procedures as in my video. I did it outside the car for two reason. I had to change the head also plus I couldn't really show the things in the video with the engine in the car. Good Luck!!!
If you do it wrong, you could fuck up the timing of the engine and kill your motor
Yes, you can mess up the engine if you don't get the valve timing right.
Good luck. It is possible to do in the care. Just take your time and double check to see that the valve timing is correct.
As long as you make the marks like he did no chance of fing it up. Once assembly just hand crank with a 19mm 3 complete revolutions to make sure the timing marks are accurate. Also get the engine mount and engine bracket to mount out of the way to give you plenty of room. You'll need an engine hoist or can put a jack under the engine oil pan. I would fold up a towel to help protect between jack and pan. You'll need to move the engine up and down a little to help get the mount out of the way.
Very well done video. Clear and concise.
Thanks.
Excellent, help me a lot, verry clear narration, regards from Peru, Pepe.
+Jose Escobar Thanks for the note, glad it was a help. Many years ago I use to travel to South America. My stop in Peru was Lima. Maybe someday I will make it back. Happy New Year.
Very informative video and well done! I have my engine out and have a full kit ordered. I just wish I had made the marks on the belt before I removed it along with the water pump. Too late now......lol
+Tom Retired Pilot Tom, all is not lost, I describe a way to establish the marks if you did mark first. Also, I had someone write in and say the following. "Hi Wayland. In the meanwhile I changed my timing belt and I can confirm that when counting the teeth on the timing belt that if tooth n° 1 is on the camshaft timing mark then tooth n° 68 is exactly opposite to the bump on the lower crankshaft sprocket. Indeed it is not that important but it is a 'double check' to verify if you have exactly 'copied' the marks from the old belt to the new belt. At last counting the teeth applies only to this specific type of engine !The only thing I could not do was 'blocking' the piston of the old tensioner since the piston shaft was twisted in the housing. With the engine in the car I did not find any method to turn the piston shaft in way that the hole in the piston shaft did match with the hole in the tensioner. So what I did was to first loosen the tension roller. No problem since I had to replace the tensioner anyway. Even when one wants to re-use the tensioner it would have been possible to compress it again in a bench vice.As I earlier stated your video was an encouragement and a great help to me in doing this job myself.Best regards from Belgium !Alfred"
Maybe you can see all the comments but I copied it here anyway. Just have to make sure we are talking the same engine.
I am a retired pilot also. Good luck in getting your engine back together
Don't think too bad on yourself. I did the same thing. Lol
Wayland,
Thank you sir.
I'm currently in the middle of doing my water-pump/t-belt on my '03 GLS 1.8T (AWP) 1st 1.8T belt I've ever done..
Ive done MANY of these on Mk2 Jetta's & Golfs & GTI's, same principle just lack of an idler-pulley where the water-pump is.
I'm gonna take the hydraulic tensioner off and seat the belt (Ive got my marks set)
then go about the install.
Big Help!! Thank you!
Hi Thanks for letting me know. Hope this job goes well for you. Are you doing this with the engine in the car? I shot the video with the engine out of the car just to get better visibility to what is going on but you can certainly do this in the car. Let me know how it goes.
Wayland Adams my engine is still in the car...i am also @ the same time...
1. Deleting my PCV/ SAi secondary air injection
2. Replacing my thermostat plus upgraded to aluminum housing
3. Replacing my struts/upgrading my control arm bushings to R32 spec.
This GLS has been from Richmond,Va. to Savannah to New Orleans & Houma, Louisiana in the past 3yrs.
Lots of I10 & I95 miles plus I64 as well...
hey, Wayland
I got it back together and running . had some problems with it over heating but I found the problem. thanks for all the help
Hi Chris - boy that is great news. Thanks for letting me know. I hope you have many trouble free miles from yourbeetle.
Thanks
If your changing it in the car. You can loosen the belt by taking out "partially creating slack" the water pump. This will give you enough slack to slip the belt off the pulley. Once off disassemble as usual. If your going to do this, drain the coolant, and take out the thermostat (replace thermo and housing too) to drain the void behind the pump. It will help keep things cleaner. When you put it back together, put the water pump in last, sliding the belt over it as you carefully tighten the pump up.
Totally agree with the full kit, do it all the first time. Belt, tensioner, pullies, pump, thermostat, housing...etc.. All this stuff is buried on a 1.8t VW.
What I did is loosen the idler pulley next to the tentioner and had just enough slack to squeeze a new belt on ;) after that I pulled the pin and rotated the crank 3 complete revolutions to ensure the timing marks were accurate
I do these alot, it works better if you install the belt over the cam shaft first and then use clamping clips to hold the belt onto the cam shaft while you slip the belt over the crank shaft. Then you slip the belt over the water pump because the water pump can spin without going out of time. Its that easy.
Exceptionally well done video and narrative. Only change I would make is refraining from applying solvent-based paint (if it is...?) to the rubber belt just to be sure the rubber isn't compromised at all. Maybe chalk would be a good alternative
Thanks for the comment. I probably should have said something about that but I didn't used a solvent based paint. The paint I used is not harmful to the belt like solvent based paint would be. But good point and those that follow my video will benefit from your comment.
Muy buen video, no se inglés pero basta con el vídeo para saber que piezas retirar y como quitarlas o reemplazarlas si dañar nada que no tenga que mover.
Gracias por tu comentario. Lo siento el video no es en español pero esperaba que ayudó de todos modos. Buena suerte en la reparación.
José Olvera que turbo trae un Audi A3 2010 edición especial? Sabes si trae launch control ?
Best video on TH-cam thank you so much 👊🏼
So clear, so well explained no drama.
Hi Pete Thanks for the comments, Glad you enjoyed the video.
The ol' "mark and pray that you got it correct" kind of timing belt service.
Thank you for this! Please do more videos with the 1.8T as I have one in my A4 and these are always the type of videos I look for when doing projects on my car. Great video.
Hi Jarrod Thanks for your comments. Mechanics is just a hobby for me and I sold my GTI with the 1.8T shortly after I made the video. But I am always looking for other videos I can make. They are fun to do. Thanks again
The best of all similar videos with 1.8T engine
+Ra fał Hi Ra fal - Thanks for the compliment, I appreciate it. It was fun making the video and I am glad you found it to be useful.
Muy bueno , el tornillo pasante para comprimir el tensor una idea genial, lo voy a usar esta semana tengo que hacer una distribución de un audi con ese motor creo que es el mismo sistema , gracias saludos
Gracias por tus comentarios. Espero que tu trabajo en el Audi vaya bien. Es lo mismo para muchos modelos de Audi, así que buena suerte. Déjame saber como va.
wow thank you for this video, i am currently filming a youtube video on how to do this timing belt, and i am stuck at the belt tension... this video cleared it up for me, if its okay with you i would like to put your video link in my description box. this way my viewers have a better reference!
Hi, yes that would be fine to include the link. Let me know when you finish your video so I can watch it. Thanks and good luck.
@@waylandadams2326 hey awesome, I'll definitely send that over. Thank you 😀
your video the best one I seen so far ,very simple and very informative im looking forward to you making more video
Thanks so much for your comments. Glad you enjoyed the video.
Thank you so much for this very helpful video presentation! God bless!
Cristian - Glad you found my video useful and thanks for the comments. God bless you to.
Awesome job Wayland, love ya style ! one of the best vids I have seen on cambelt replacement ...................most of them are not the full deal. P.S. it also makes a BIG difference with the engine the ground, I think this way will save MANY swear words haha
Hi Blair - Thanks for the comments, I appreciate it. I had a lot of fun making making the video and then corresponding with many who have questions or comments. You're the first to comment on liking having the engine out of the car. Others have commented that I should have done it with the engine in the car. I purposely did it this way so I could show more detail of the actual process. I think having the detail helps when changing the belt in the car which is very possible to do. As you know, it is very tight with the engine in the car and would be impossible to get very detailed video. Thanks again.
Ya welcome Wayland..............its just that I am 'hot off the press' just having done the cam belt on my Isuzu trooper 4x4 on saturday {sorry bit on sunday} .............not having ever done a belt. I did not find the accurate info which you so easily display combined with the eager attitude you share. Yes engine out would or is the answer, makes an extremely attentive hard job a hundred percent easier, that is if the user knows whats he is doing. SO Thankyou Sir Wayland Adams for your style.
Very true.. there are videos of guys replacing the belt with engine in car, but you can’t see a darn thing they are doing! Great video.
So you show this really good☝️Best reguards from Germany
Hi, Thanks for the comments and glad you like my video. I have traveled to Germany several times mainly in the Hamburg area and Munich. We are hoping to come back later this year. Best regards from New Mexico, USA
I also have to say great tutorial with some hot tips!
Also your articulation was very easy to understand.
Thanks for that and best regards from germany!
+Tim M. Hi Tim - Thanks so much for the note. I am glad you like the video and appreciate your complements. I have been to Germany many times and really enjoy it. I am hoping to get back there later this year. Regards from New Mexico, USA
Wayland adams u are the man explain all the work on astra very good mate but I want to know more work on to new astra which is 1.7 cdti 2012 plate hatch back anyway thank you verymuch mate keep it up
I am not aware that we have that car/engine available in the US. I did look a little online and found that just like the 1.8 Turbo in VW it is an interference engine. That means the valves will be damaged if the timing belt breaks so it is very important to change it as recommended. While I don't have access to this particular engine I would think you could follow the basic steps I outlined. I just really found it useful to mark the old belt and transfer to the new one. I assume you have also looked online at some of the instructions there for changing the belt. Good luck.
this is great
. thanks.. I'm about to do an engine rebuilt and nuts aeb engine has a lot of miles on it. this was very informative 😊
Hi Allan - Thanks for watching and I am glad it helped. Good luck on the rebuild.
Fantastic video well explained...... 😉 I got a do my belt tomorrow... I hope all go's ok 😟
Thanks for the comment, good luck changing you belt.
If you're doing this on your car, follow these instructions but install the tensioner WITHOUT the small roller pulley first. The tensioner bolts will destroy the threads if there is too much pressure. Then push away the belt and put in the little tensioner pulley.
James James that's what I did .I was having a hell of a time getting the tensioner in with it on. got it all back together and realized the cam timing is one notch off. I about blew a gasket. is there any way to fix this without taking the whole thing as apart?
yes, remove the camshaft pulley, get it lined up on the correct tooth and slide it back onto the keyway on the camshaft. You may have to turn the crank slightly but only about the same as you see it moved in this vid. you don't have to disassemble anything else. I've found it is much easier to remove the cam pulley to perform all timing belt maintenance. ..After lining up the timing marks of course.
James O'Phelan
Yes great video it's the one I've been looking for... BUTwhat do I do if somehow ive LOST the Mark's on the belt that I had due to negligence and just not knowingly throwing the old belt away...how do I find top.dead center and get my timing Mark's lined back up so that I can safely.start my car again???????
Hi Tommy Mac - So at 5:33 in my video, there is a discussion of how to put on the timing belt without marks on the belt. But it assumes the crankshaft and camshaft are already on the timing marks. What it the position of your crank and cam. Are they on the timing marks? If so, you can just follow the video for that section starting at 5:33. If the crank and cam are not on the timing marks then you have a bit of problem. This is an interference engine meaning the top of pistons will impact the valve when timing is off. So did you just pull the belt off before turning to the timing marks. If so, I would just put the belt back on the best you can and then turn the engine to the timing marks. Chances are you will be off one tooth but it won't damage the engine. Then you can adjust the belt as described in the video. I did have one viewer write in and offer this. "Hi Wayland. In the meanwhile I changed my timing belt and I can confirm that when counting the teeth on the timing belt that if tooth n° 1 is on the camshaft timing mark then tooth n° 68 is exactly opposite to the bump on the lower crankshaft sprocket. Indeed it is not that important but it is a 'double check' to verify if you have exactly 'copied' the marks from the old belt to the new belt." I haven't verified this but you could count the teeth on the belts and put the marks on it. If you let me know the exact state of your crank and cam with relations to the timing marks, I could offer some more complete steps. By definition, when the crank is on the timing mark, you are at TDC. If you want to check that, one way is to remove the spark plug on #1 cylinder and using a long screw driver on top of the piston, you can tell when it is at the top. You just need to be careful about turning the crank without turning the camshaft. Let me know how else I can help. Wayland
Thank you for video clear and simple
Thanks for your comments. Glad you enjoyed my video
you are the man. beautiful video well explain . thank you sir from mexico..
Thanks for the comment Omar. Glad you enjoyed the video.
hey Wayland, don't get me wrong. I don't think I would've got in on any other way. seems whatever position I tried to but the belt in when I lifted up the idler pulley either the crank or the camshaft moved so I'd put them pack and start over I thought in finally had it but maybe it moved when I was under the car putting the tensioner on. I also took that little roller off the tensioner. it made it easier. the thought has crossed my mind, although unlikely that the cam shaft timing marks were missing marked at the factory. I wish I could see the valves .
Chris - no problem I don't think I took it wrong. I just wanted others to understand that the video is still probably the best way to change the belt even with the engine still in the car. I can only imagine how hard it must be. I think taking the little roller off is a good suggestion. I missed that when doing it on the engine out of the car. I had plenty of room and leverage to just hold the tensioner where it needed to be without removing the little roller. Thanks so much for your comments. I am sure others following my channel appreciate your insights.
Thanks Wayland. I'll let you all know how it comes out. Have a good one.
THANK YOU so much waylaid. So helpful
Hi Joel, Thanks for the comment and glad you found the video useful. Wayland
Dude, you are the man!
Thanks for you comment!
Thanks for sharing sir, may god give you a right path
Thanks for your comment. an may you be shown the right path
Lovely narration and excellent video.
Hi Erez - Thanks for your comments. I appreciate it.
That awesome. Thanks very much. so perfect. easy to understand. you just made a scary job easy to do. keep up the good work.
Daniel Thanks for taking the time to comment. Glad you enjoyed the video and glad it helped. Wayland
Thank you, very usefull clip for DIY 'ers
Thank you very much for the comment. Glad you found the video useful. It was fun to make.
I appreciate your time and knowledge, thank you for sharing it
Thanks for the comment
Great video... I CAN NOT get the timing belt over the cam sprocket on my MK1 TT no matter what. I will try putting the tensioner on last. But it looks easy with the engine out of the car.
Hi George Thanks for the comment. Hopefully this will help getting the timing belt on your MK1. It is the same problem I was having. In my case, the timing belt had broken requiring rebuild of the head. Given that, it was easier to just take the engine out. I chose to do the video while the engine was out so you could see the detail better. But following the same steps you should be able to complete this with the engine in the car. Good Luck! Let me know how it turns out.
Wayland Adams I will let you know. There is no cam lock that I know of like on the 1.9 tdi. How tight was it getting it on without the tensioner and how hard was it to line the holes up once the belt was on? I have my dad as a helper and negotiating the motor mount isn’t that hard if you keep the mount “floating”’while working the bolts.
@@2747scout I found it real easy to put the belt on without the tensioner on. The key to getting it lined up are the marks on the belt. Hopefully you have been able to mark your belt. As shown in the video, you may need to turn the crank slightly when putting the belt to get the marks in the right place and then move the crank back to the timing marks on the engine and then put on the tensioner. If you can do this, then everything is lined up. I am not familiar with your engine to know if there are any specific changes but using marks on the timing belt can be used on just about any engine. Good luck.
appreciate this well done video...on to this GD Audi TT
Pete Thanks for the feedback. Good luck on you Audi TT. Wayland
Hi nice video . U should do a video on how to replace the clutch on the same car that would be great .
Thanks for the comment. Unfortunately I don't have this car anymore so can't do a video on the clutch. Sorry.
Very good and helpful video, great job!
Thanks for the comment
great guide. very clear.
👍👍👍 Awesome video!! Much appreciated.
Robert - thanks for your comments. Glad you enjoyed the video, it was fun to make.
Excellent video and tutorial! Any other items that you would suggest to replace as long as you are in there? Spending a little extra money on a couple of items beats doing the whole job over in a week or two because something that you had apart failed two wees later.
Glad you liked the video. I mentioned most of things to change in the video. Definitely replace the water pump, the belt tensioner and all the rollers/idler pulleys. As you say, it is better to do them while there. Aside from that, you might check your alternator. With the drive belt off the alternator you can rotate it to see if there are any rough spots or noise as it rotates. Good luck in getting your car back on the road.
Thanks Much Appreciated!
you're welcome
Is there a special tool for cam shaft and cranckshaft lock for this engine?
This is a great video. Out of technical interest does Audi / vw specify a belt tension test such a frequency , deflection or twist? thankyou
Hi Michael - Thanks for the comments. I am not aware of such a test. Obviously if the belt tensioner is doing it's job, everything will be kept in spec. But please be aware, I am not a professional mechanic that may have access to such a test.
@@waylandadams2326 thank you for taking the time to reply.
Awesome! Very useful, thank you.
Steven - Glad you found my video useful and thanks for the comments.
شكرا لك نرجوالمزيد لاجزاء اخرى من المحرك فلدي واحدة من هذا الموديل حاليا وامتلكت سابقا عدة موديلات من الكولف جيتا من87و89 و90 و91
Thanks for the note, glad you liked the video. You must really like the VW Golf to have had so many models. It's a sweet car.
Thanks
شكرا على الملاحظة ، سعداء أحببت الفيديو. يجب أن تحب حقا أن يكون فولكسفاغن غولف العديد من النماذج. إنها سيارة حلوة.
شكر
Thank you so much great video
Patrick thanks for the note glad you liked the video
Good job thank you
Hi William, thanks for the compliment. Glad you like the video. Wayland
Best video I've seen
Thanks for the compliment. Glad you liked the video
Finally a useful fucking video. Nice angles, explains everything. Wouldn't believe how many vids suck. Just one thing. You obviously had a cameraman. Shouldve used that extra hand xD
Thanks for the comments. Yes, I did have a cameraman (my son). That with post editing and narration make a much better video. Explain a little more what you mean by using the extra hand.
So helpful thank you.
Thanks for the comments, glad you like the video.
Thank you excellent video, very useful 👏🏾👏🏾
Hi Paul, Thanks for the feedback and glad you found the video useful. Wayland
Thanks for this excellent tutorial. I just have a question because I learned when you have replace the new timing belt, you have to rotate the crankshaft on two laps to be sure the marks are still align, What do you think about that? Regards from France
I say a little mistake because the two laps you have to do are to check if the camshaft pulley repere is still align with engine repere. No report with marks you did on the timing belt.
Hi - yes, that is the recommended procedure that after you get it all back together that you rotate the engine two turns on the crankshaft. I cover that right at the end of the video. Just be aware that when you rotate the engine you are looking for alignment of the timing marks on the gears and on the case. The timing marks you put on the belt will no longer align and that is okay. It is the timing marks on the gear and case.that are important.
thank u soo much sir saved me 500
Leonardo - Glad the video helped and saved you some money. Thanks for letting me know.
Thanks for posting
You're very welcome
awesome man! this makes it so easy! great video ! thanks!
Glad the video helped and thanks for your comment.
Thanks for the video. I have an 01 VW bora, with AEH engine. I can't seem to find the mark on the crank pulley. I read there is a mark on the torque converter which can be seen through a small window on the gearbox area. I have used this mark to do my timing but after rotating the engine, the marks are off by 1 or 2 teeth and I get a code 00515. Is there anything else I can do?
Hi Paul. Sorry your are having this problem. I am not totally familiar with that engine as I am not a professional mechanic. But having said that I do have a couple of ideas. Unless it is real easy to reference the timing mark at the torque converter, I would paint a mark on your crank pulley and case. Just line up the mark at the torque converter and then paint a mark on the pulley and case. It is not critical the location, just that they are adjacent to each other. The problem of being off by one or two teeth is a common problem and the reason I stress marking the belt. In this case, I will assume you don’t have your belt marked. Install the belt and mark the belt at the mark you put on the crank pulley and at the camshaft. Rotate the engine. If you are still off by the one or two teeth, take the belt off. Move the mark on the belt at the crank the one or two teeth closer to the camshaft mark and reinstall the belt. You will probably have to back the crank off a little bit to get the marks lined up and then move it back to the timing marks. That is because the belt is so tight when everything is in the right place. Try that see if it works for you. Let me know if I can be of further help.
@@waylandadams2326 Thanks so much for this great piece of advice. I will do exactly what U have recommended. My engine is similar to the golf mk4s with 1.6 litre, 8 valves and shares parts with the 1.8 and 2.0 engines.
How much slack should be in the belt between the Cam pulley and the water pump?
Hello, Will these instructions work on my 2001 Audi A4 1.8T quattro? Great video....Thanks.
I think, they will. I have a 2001 AUDI A4 1.8T Quattro Avant. The parts in my car are the same as they are in this video.
Thank you! You are awesome!
Thanks for the comment, glad you enjoyed the video.
I have 1.8t 20v engine (auq). I think my belt jumped and im gonna change timing belt n waterpump and tensionee ofc! But the " problem " is that i dont have the belt cover which has marks on it.. So how can i set the timing right? #1 piston to TDC and then just set the cam marks? Sorry about my bad english😂🤘🏼
yes, you can make sure #1 piston is at TDC and then set the cam on the marks. I hope you haven't damaged the valves on your engine which can happen if the timing belt breaks or slips significantly. Once you have #1 piston at TDC, I would place a mark on the sprocket and the engine casing for a reference. Good luck on this repair. Let me know how it goes.
Yes i will let you know👍🏼 thanks
Car works now! Thank you!
I am sure glad it is working. Thanks for letting me know.
I got mine all back together and the cam mark is one notch off to the left. is there anyway to fix this without taking it all apart again? I had a hell of a time getting the tensioner in and don't want to have to tackle that again.
Chris - I haven't done this procedure with the engine still in the car but can imagine it is a bear. I don't know of any way to change without tearing it apart again. Sorry I don't have a good suggestion. When I made the video I assumed it would still make the procedure easier do to in the car that doing it some of the other ways being suggested. I hope that is the case even though it was still very hard. Good luck.
Nao entendi o que foi falado, mas entendi o que foi feito! Parabens!
Obrigado por seus comentários. Fico feliz que você possa entender o que eu estava fazendo sem entender minhas palavras. Espero que tudo tenha corrido bem.
(Thanks for your comments. I am glad you could understand what I was doing without understanding my words. Hope everything went well)
Great video thanks
Thanks, glad you enjoyed it and I hope it helped. Thanks for the comments
An awesome thing to know, would be how many teeth are between the two timing marks. That way, anybody who picks up a new belt can just put a mark on one tooth, then count however-many-teeth and put the second mark.
Hi Lane One of my viewers indicated that you could count the teeth to make sure the marks are correct. This is what he said. "Hi Wayland. In the meanwhile I changed my timing belt and I can confirm that when counting the teeth on the timing belt that if tooth n° 1 is on the camshaft timing mark then tooth n° 68 is exactly opposite to the bump on the lower crankshaft sprocket.
So this is another way to get the marks on the new belt. Good luck
Wayland Adams thank you very much. The problem I have been having is that once the belt get tensioned, either the cam or crank sprocket turns a little. Though not until it has been run for several minutes. This should remedy that. Thank you very much for your support and quick response.
Lane
Yes, that should help. Thanks for letting me know.
What's the purpose of marking the old belt (before removal) and then copying those marks onto the new belt (before installation)?
The purpose of marking the belts is to make sure you get the right number of belt teeth between the camshaft and crankshaft. When it is done right, the tension on the belt is pretty tight on the right side. If you don't mark the belt it is very easy to be off by one or two teeth. As I said in the video, when you mark the belt, you can back off the crankshaft a little bit in order to get the belt on according to the marks. Then advance the crankshaft to the timing position and everything will be set correctly. So the marks are a reference which help big time in getting the new belt on in the proper place. Does that answer your questions?
Quick Question. The kit i ordered includes crankshaft and camshaft seals. How would i go about replacing those? or would i even need to?
Thanks!
Hi Jesus
I have never replaced those seals. Here are a couple of links talking about it.
th-cam.com/video/8lGbzmaKdqM/w-d-xo.html
www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/453998-Front-Crank-Seal-should-I-bother-replacing-while-doing-Timing-belt
You can probably find some other information about changing seals by googling on the subject.
Good Luck.
Hello Wayland,Do you know at what number of tooth you put the mark on the crankshaft sprocket. Some descriptions say that when the tooth on the TDC-mark of the camshaft is number 1 (on the belt) then the tooth (on the belt) on the cranshaft sprocket is nr. 68 (exactly on the location on the lower sprocket as shown in your video). Can you confirm this ?Regards,Alfred
+Alfred Hi Alfred. I hope I understand your question. If not, feel free to write back. ( see second paragraph) I am not aware of any numbers on the teeth of the crankshaft sprocket. The timing marks are on the crankshaft pulley and the lower timing belt cover. The timing marks at the camshaft are on the camshaft sprocket and the case. If you go to the front of my video you will see what I mean. As I said in the video it is important to make sure the timing marks are aligned prior to removing the pulley and lower cover. Once the timing marks are aligned, then remove the pulley and cover being careful not to turn the engine. At this point, it doesn't really matter which tooth you mark assuming you didn't turn the engine while removing the pulley. Just mark a convenient tooth and the case adjacent. These marks are just for reference so you don't have to put the pulley back on to check timing. It is important that you don't turn the engine without the timing belt in place. This engine is what they call an interference engine meaning the pistons will strike the valves when not correctly timed or the timing belt breaks.
So I wrote the above comment and then read your question again. I think I missed what you are asking. My video assumes that you mark the sprocket and old belt before removing it. And then transfer the marks to the new belt. Using this method doesn't really depend on counting belt teeth since everything is relative to where you placed the marks with the old belt on. That is why I did it that way. Now if you didn't mark the old belt or the belt broke you can still use my method. Do everything at the first of the video to get the engine and camshaft on the timing marks before you remove the pulley and lower cover. And then when you remove the pulley and lower cover put some reference marks on the sprocket and case. These are the marks at the top (12 o clock)of the crankshaft sprocket and adjacent case. These marks are important so you know that the engine is in time. Than take your new belt and put it on the camshaft. At this point I would put a mark on the belt at the camshaft timing mark. From there put the belt over the water pump pulley and down to the crankshaft. What I found is that I had to back off the crankshaft pulley (counter clockwise) just a little bit (one tooth or less referenced to the timing marks you put at the top of the sprocket and adjacent case), put the belt on and move the sprocket back (clockwise) to the timing marks at the top of the sprocket. You will know your are right if you turn anymore clockwise you will also start turning the camshaft. At this point, I would put a mark on the belt and the sprocket. This is done with the tensioner off the engine. I never really counted the teeth on the belt. Then put on the tensioner and turn the engine over a few times. The timing marks should stay lined up. Just be aware that once you turn the engine over a few times, the marks on the belt will not line up again but the timing marks will. So I don't know if the number 68 is right or not.
Just to fill you in on the complete story, the engine I was using in the video had suffered a broken timing belt. So the head had to be rebuilt. So I went through the process above to establish where the marks on the belt needed to be.
Hope this makes sense. If not feel free to ask again.
Wayland
+Wayland Adams , Hi Wayland. In the meanwhile I changed my timing belt and I can confirm that when counting the teeth on the timing belt that if tooth n° 1 is on the camshaft timing mark then tooth n° 68 is exactly opposite to the bump on the lower crankshaft sprocket. Indeed it is not that important but it is a 'double check' to verify if you have exactly 'copied' the marks from the old belt to the new belt. At last counting the teeth applies only to this specific type of engine !The only thing I could not do was 'blocking' the piston of the old tensioner since the piston shaft was twisted in the housing. With the engine in the car I did not find any method to turn the piston shaft in way that the hole in the piston shaft did match with the hole in the tensioner. So what I did was to first loosen the tension roller. No problem since I had to replace the tensioner anyway. Even when one wants to re-use the tensioner it would have been possible to compress it again in a bench vice.As I earlier stated your video was an encouragement and a great help to me in doing this job myself.Best regards from Belgium !Alfred
hello sir. how would I know if my timing belt is timed without the paint when i change my old belt?
Hi There are a couple of things you can do. If you have it all back together, it is suggested that you turn the crankshaft around twice (2 revolutions). After the 2 revolutions, check the timing marks on the crankshaft and camshaft against the marks on the case If they are both aligned, then you are correctly timed. If they are not aligned, then you need to adjust the timing. It is not uncommon to be off one tooth when you put the belt on without marks on the belt. If this is the case, align the timing marks at the crankshaft with the mark on the case. Then mark the belt at that point. Up at the camshaft mark the belt at the timing mark on the case. You can then reinstall the belt using the marks. Again, rotate the engine twice and check that the marks are still aligned. Just note, that if you mark and install the belt then rotate the engine, the marks on the belt will no longer be aligned after the two rotations but that is okay and normal. Just make sure the alignment marks on the camshaft and crankshaft are align with the marks on the case.
Please help! I'm midway through doing the belt on my 1.8t. I can't get the lower timing mark aligned when I tension, its always a bit behind tdc is this correct?
That doesn't sound right. Do you mark your belt? I found that I needed to turn the crankshaft counterclockwise slightly to get the belt in the right place, then turn clockwise to tension the belt. You are welcome to call me and we can talk some more if needed. 505 353 2255.
I'm trying to do this fix but I can't get the crankshaft pulley and the camshaft pulley marks to line up at the timing marks at the same time.
The marks are way off and not 180 degrees The engine runs good but needs a water pump . This car is new to me but I can tell the belt has been replaced at one time it's a Napa belt . Any idea what I'm doing wrong? Great video by the way. Thanks
Hi Mark - I just got back in town from Christmas trip and saw your message. I am assuming that from your comments, the car is still running but needs a water pump replacement. If the engine is running fine it means that the valve timing is very close to correct. If it were very far off, the engine wouldn't run very well if at all and the valves could be damaged but that doesn't seem to be the case with your engine. At around 50 seconds into my video, it shows the timing marks lined up. Just be aware that the camshaft rotates half the speed of the crankshaft. I suggest you rotate the engine to get the camshaft marks lined up and then check the crankshaft marks. If they are not lined up as shown in the video, maybe you could describe what you see at the crankshaft marks. It could be that when the previous belt was installed that is was off a tooth or two That is easy to do and the big reason behind my suggestion to mark the belt. I will be glad to help further if you haven't figured it and can supply some more detail. Good Luck. Wayland
Wayland Adams
Thanks for replying, yes the car does run fine but needs a new water pump. When I try to get the motor to TDC no matter how many revolutions I can't get the crankshaft to line up at same time and it's a long ways off and more than a tooth or two. I'm wondering if the pulleys could of been taken off at one time and put on wrong? Could I just go through this process of marking everything with the cam at the timing mark as long as nothing gets moved?Thanks for helping
Mark That is really strange. The pulleys are only supposed to go on one way. But yes, you can follow the procedures, marking the belt at corresponding marks on the sprockets. So, I would line up the camshaft timing marks on the sprocket and engine block, then pay real close attention as you remove the crankshaft pulling and cover. At about 1 minute 30 seconds into the video I show marking a crankshaft tooth and the corresponding position on the block. This is real important to do since the timing marks have been removed with the pulley and cover. Then just make sure these marks stay lined up through out the procedure. You will note in the video that I mark the belt at the timing mark on the camshaft, but at the crankshaft the mark on the belt is not at the timing mark. But that is okay since you just want to keep the same relative position. It doesn't show very well in the video but at the place where I mark the belt at the crankshaft, there is a little knob on the sprocket. This knob is what aligns the pulley in only one way with crankshaft. I just picked that place but you could pick any place where the belt is engaged on the sprocket and mark both the belt and the sprocket.
It sounds like you have a pretty good understanding of what needs to be done. But if you think you need more help let me know. If you want to give me your phone number and/or email address we could talk and/or exchange photos. Good luck on getting this done. Wayland
Wayland Adams
Thanks for the help, I messed with it today and got the pulleys lined up finally. Thanks again for the help
Glad you got it. Hope the repair goes well.
great video man!
Thanks for the comment. Glad you liked my video.
and this is how to get your timing worse and worse tooh by tooth xD use the factory timing marks on the camshaft sprocket and the vibration damper pulley/cover. belts stretch and might force the new one to start where the old one was done stretching. now its going to stretch further..
Hi, Thanks for your comments. I agree completely that one must use the timing marks when installing a new belt. While timing belts may stretch a little bit, they are specifically manufactured to minimize stretch. But, regardless of any stretch, the number of teeth on the belt between the camshaft timing mark and the crank timing mark remains constant. The reason I suggest marking the belt is to aid in getting the belt on correctly but not a substitute for using the timing marks. What I have found is people get the timing off by one tooth because the belt is too tight to get in the right position. The marks on the belt allow you to back off the crank a little bit, get the belt in the right position and then return the crank to the timing mark. Once the belt is installed with the tensioner in place, it is recommend to turn the crank 2 revolutions and checking the timing marks. At this point, the marks on the belt are no longer aligned but the timing marks should be. If not, the belt must be redone. I tried to emphasize several times in the video that the timing marks are what is important. I have just found that marking the belt as I suggest allows me to get the belt on right the very first time. Without the marks on the belt, it is so easy to get off by one or more teeth. Thanks again and emphasizing the importance of the timing marks. They are the only thing that counts.