Hope this gets you guys dialed in on Properly timing a 1.8t! Im working hard to get the full TT Series done soon. ITs gonna be awesome, and a total disaster HAHA
I can't wait for the TT series. My wife and I bought a basket case 2001 roadster - so far it's been a downpipe, turbo, 1 intercooler, oil pan, power steering reservoir and shifter bushings. Now the door cards are de-laminating at the top, the foam in the hvac system in disintegrating, the haldex doesn't work, and the CCM is failing. The wife wants it gone now, so I'll be patching it up and soon it can be someone else's problem.
just did this a month ago on a s3 8l :)), that cardboard thing it's very cool... i end up taking out the hydraulic tensioner putting the belt and then the tensioner :))
Nice video, I have a 1.4t EA211 CZTA in a Jetta that need the timing belt done in a year and have been unable to find a private vw shop that has the tools to do it and the dealer is really expensive. Do you see yourself doing one of those or consider doing one of those or something in the same family in the near future?
The video has so many “likes” within minutes of posting. It hasn’t even been posted for enough time for people to have seen the entire video, but they’re loving it.
To explain the intake cam gear being off a bit at the end, when you start the car and the chain tensioner fills with oil and pushes the chain upwards it pulls the chain so the notch on gear will line up.
Mine has 16 rollers between marks, and the intake cam is advanced and doesn't line up right. Like you said, when I extend the tensioner all the way out, it lines up. That said, I'm getting a slight ticking noise and a P0011, which is Timing over advanced. Is my tensioner crap?
@MrBananaPsycho Heyy, a little late to this comment but I had a couple of questions. I currently have a Jetta with a 1.8t AWP engine and I have been looking on how to delete my sai/evap as it’s currently giving me a headache 😅. Did you get any aftermarket parts that helped you out? Or did you DIY it and somehow made it work 😂. Would appreciate if you replied, thanks!!
One of the first cars I ever learned how to work on was a b6 A4 1.8t about 10 years ago. Chewed through three engines on that car. First one was underpowered and after replacing everything I could i swapped the engine only to find that the honeycomb in the cat was sitting sideways robbing power. The second engine caved when I applied too much silicone on the oil pan and head gasket. Third engine did the same thing because apparently i never learn. I timed each of those engines at least twice and this video gives me great nostalgia and shows the steps that I learned through mistakes. Great content as usual Charles!
Finally! A 1.8T timing video of both timing belt AND timing chain/tensioner! Quick Question: How were you able to rotate the crank twice with the belt being off one tooth initially? Wouldn’t that invite some damage?
GREAT question.... 1 tooth off on this engine is not enough To damage rotating by hand. I have had these off a tooth and the car runs... NOT well but runs.
If this video was made in 2019 it would've saved me from browning my trousers when it was time to slip the belt over the WP. I kept thinking i've done something wrong or I ordered a smaller belt. It all went super well in the end. Great vid for the ones who have yet to go through this process. 👍 Cheers 🍻
Thanks so much. Never done a engine with DOC like this before. Got a mk1 audi tt for cheap with a used engine to put in it. My mechanic brain said don't trust any work before you so water pump and all needed to be changed. Seeing it done is how I learn so I appreciate your time and effort.
I must say im surprised by my 1.8t. It smokes, the head rattles, has timing codes, it leaks coolant and a bit of oil. Its been this way for 3 of the 6 years i've owned it. Still gets 29ish MPG and does not stop. Best $1000 i've ever spent on a car
Me too hahahaha i’m in the exact same situation 417k on my ATW 1.8t and she still is a TANK I didn’t put all the miles on it. But i got it recent and it’s a great ride
This video has spared me a huge headache today. I was working on a Golf mk4 AUM 1.8T car with high idle, misfires, hard start, and poor perfomance. What cured it? Humble Mechanic's detailed and straight-forward video. HM, you are right about that intake cam chain sprocket marking being off a bit. You should have seen me counting those chain rollers like a 5 year old coz I did not want to make a mistake🤣. I did not have the special chain tensioner locking tool so I used one long zip tie. After so me fiddling, I scored the winning goal. Long story short, she purred like a kitten after. Thanks man. -Sizwe, from South Africa
As someone who just blew a timing belt on their TT ALMS... this is perfect. Picking up my head from the machine shop with new valves, and going to use this to get everything back together correctly. Thanks Charles.
I just bought a turbo Beetle and changed out the timing belt and water pump . I am a professional mechanic , but I have never done a belt on the 1.8T before . So after watching this I had enough information to do the job . Engine is running good and I'm happy . Thanks for the information!!
Ive done 2 timing belts on my MK3 1.8t just did my first MK6 2.0 TDI as well as several other non vw timing belts. Ive found it very helpful to mark the old belt to the sprockets making my own marks with sharpie or paint marker then counting teeth on the old belt. Transfer the marks to the new belt. This has saved me from having to replace torque to yield bolts on my TDI's cam and HPFP because the VW procedure has you loosen them for adjustment. The method I used did not require this and the rig pins and crank lock all lined up without issue. I figured if they timed it right at the factory, the gears should not need to be adjusted when using a n oem belt. Maybe I am wrong on that idea, but it worked out for my car. Hope this helps someone
If you’re a VW/Audi mechanic, you have a job for life. I would never own a Euro but I just enjoy your videos SO much. After watching you and VAG Technic, definitely too much hassle
I own a auto repair shop, I do a lot of vw/Audi work. I was doing a belt and chain on a 1.8 the other night and I watched this video and did the cardboard trick I can’t believe it worked! Thanks for showing that was really cool.
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Hi, do you have any idea why there might be light vibrations felt in the cabin when accelerating?
Sweet vid!! I had a really great time in February timing my AWM engine and learning as I went. It was my second go-round so I tried to do as much as I could using my own noggin. Pulled cams all the way out, no timing belt, everything off and then back from square one. Just made sure to keep the crank where it was until the chains and belts were back on. Spun it many times to verify, then sealed her back up. Really fun. Would have been so much simpler if this video were out at the time.
Great engine. Still driving my Passat B5.5 1.8t (AWT) with 270000km. First time i was doing timing belt and i was scary a little bit. But after i have done all work i was proud to my self. The worst thing on longitudinal 1.8t to change timing belt is removing front end 🤣🤣 but you get used to that .
Ive owned a 2002 Passat 1.8T AWM 170hp manual from 149,000kms to 250,000kms. It came to me with a full service history of doing 8-10,000kms oil changes on 5w40 castrol syntec. I kept doing the same thing. I'd also run liqui molly and pentosin 5w40 occasionally. At 200,000km I changed the timing belt and replaced the valve cover gasket. Engine was so shiny inside. Never had any start up rattle, never had any oil consumption. Never had pcv problems. Literally the only thing I've done to it in my 100,000km ownership was a full timing belt and water pump and a valve cover gasket. Also spark plugs and a broken plastic dipstick tube - I broke it at -35C weather... it was a pain to replace. It was the most amazing car I've had back then. I did change my clutch once - only the clutch, not the flywheel. And I've had a cracked engine mount. So really that's all I've done to the car over my ownership. Timing belt, clutch and engine mounts. I don't know why people are having so many issues with it. I never did. Car ran perfect. Never once did the cel come on... I'd gladly buy one again, but nowadays these are hard to come by with low mileage.
YES! It loses water pumps, timing chain tensioners, valve cover gaskets, oil coolers, coolant flanges, catalytic converters, cooling fans, alternators, Coolant temp sensors, injector o-rings, And probably a bunch of other stuff. LOL I always laugh when people talk about how "amazing" the 1.8t was.
@@HumbleMechanic I like to brag to my 1.8 friends that my aeg never has problems 😂 I'm over here Driving hundreds of miles to the bay and they can't even get their car to idle right
Not like I'd ever need this info, because I'll probably never be rebuilding a 1.8t (never lose). But these types of videos are still fascinating to watch. Great job Charles
Hey Charles, as a former long term Audi/VW tech myself, I'll make it even easier for you having literally done hundreds of these T-Belts and dozens of cam adjuster/tensioner jobs both 1.8T and 30valve V6's.... Don't even bother with the damper pulley marks/dimples and paint dots. Instead, on the crank sprocket, the next tooth peak counter clockwise of which you paint marked is perfectly center lined/indexed with two of the threaded holes across the diameter with the center crank bolt. That bolt hole will/should always line up perfectly with the casting rib between the two mounting bolts of the crank seal housing/flange when the indexing nub is at about the 4 o'clock position. (3:16 of video right by your pointing pinky finger). Also, to double/triple check your T-Belt timing, the belt tooth count, not sprocket tooth, BELT tooth count between the nub on the crank sprocket and cam sprocket mark needs to be 68 teeth on the belt. When the belt is properly set, the cam timing notch/marks will be about 1/3 - 1/2 a tooth advanced on the cam sprocket to valve cover notches/marks. After a few heat and driving cycles, the cam notches will line up just fine. Focus more on the 68 tooth count on the belt. Getting the T-Belt on can be a real pain cause they're so tight. I would just "roll them onto the crank sprocket". The old 8 valve 2.slows and AMB 1.8T's in the B6 chassis A4"s were exactly the same with the crank sprocket and such but easier to fit belts cause of their eccentric tensioner pulleys. The VW BPY engines and Audi BPG (I think) engine were also the same in crank sprocket alignment despite using six damper pulley bolts. (After that decade long class action suit over all the clapped out B5 chassis Passat's/A4's breaking T-Belts before their "105K service interval", VW actually came out with a new "Repair Kit" with an eccentric tensioner pulley and updated T-Belt # 06B109119"F" belt vs. #....119"A" belt. The new belt is an HNBR material belt made in Germany, more "heavy duty", basically the OE equivalent of those fancy Blue Gates branded "Racing" Timing Belts made of HNBR. The old ...119"A" belts made by ContiTech are no longer made in Germany but rather a country where workers ain't paid sh!t and therefore don't give a fvck about quality control. ME, I paid the few extra bucks for the ...."F" timing belt for my BEA powered TT for it's third T-Belt and still using the improved 2.0 FSI water pump. Now, if I could only figure out how to use the 2.0 FSI Kevlar reinforced 148 tooth T-Belt vs the 150 tooth HNBR 1.8T belt, I'd be a happy camper.
If you are sure the engine is properly timed on the old belt, then the trick of marking the old belt and the crank and cam wheels before disassembly can help, transfer the belt marks to the new belt and align the new belt with the marks you made on the pulleys, that ensures you get the right number of belt teeth between cam and crank pulleys and avoids having to adjust after if it's not right 1st time round. When doing it in the car, as most people will be, it's definitely easier i.m.o. to get the belt maybe 10-20% on the water pump pulley 1st then get the belt started on the crank pulley and push both fully home at the same time. Watching Car SOS this week I saw Fuzz take an interesting short cut on cam belt fitting. By slicing the old belt in half along its entire length. Removing the outside half and fitting the new belt alongside it. Then cut the remaining half off and slide the new belt all the way on. th-cam.com/video/Tti7sGU1dOA/w-d-xo.htmlsi=6sV7CJpCNEdSpevc
I have a 2004 TT Quattro Roadster with the BEA 225hp engine. I had an issue where the timing mark on the Fluidampr was incorrect, however, I'd already watched this video and copied your extra timing marks, so once I copied the timing mark from the original crank pulley to the Fluidampr, everything went incredibly smoothly! To make sure it would remain in time after being tensioned, I pulled the tensioner to its tensioned position and instead of pulling the pin, I shoved an Allen key between the tensioner and the brace, which held the belt under tension without releasing the tensioner.
Great video, as usual. I wish I had known about that cardboard trick during my ownership of a 1.8T Passat. Even after 3 timing belt replacements, I always ended up 1 tooth off on the first try. Also, extremely jealous of the AWP's simplified tensioner/roller system. The one on the AWM engines was awful!
Just refurbished my 1997 AEB head with 350k miles on it, recommend the shop manual for correct procedures. Did a compression test after reassembly and got factory new(!) values of 11-12.2 bars, amazing engine this.
Two things viewers should be aware of. The service manual calls for RVT on the cam chain tensioner gasket and the cam sprocket bridge. The other is that when counting the rollers on the cam chain, the first roller on the exhaust cam is slightly offset to the left of the timing mark.
A little tip, as the TDC markings on the crankshaft are not always perfect as there may be some play on the vibration damper. You can also use the flywheel to help. There is a 0 mark and an I mark on the flywheel. If half of the 0 is visible (i.e. a C), then ideally cylinder 1 is also at TDC. This gives you another additional marking for TDC to check. But it only works when the gearbox is installed.
Thank you for this! It just came to me about 8 months too late! SO much confusion on roller count and where to count for the cam notches. Also the AWM timing mark is a very very slight dimple on the cover kind of like the one shown in the video. Great engine for a first time changing a timing belt! Pulling the front end forward on the AWM made it so much easier! I made the rods to slide the front end on, from old hardened steel shock rods i cut off, and the thread was the same as the frame bolts!
Thank you so much, I kept taking the belt on and off to line up the marks but it was always one tooth off and the cardboard trick saved me lol. My fingers hurt for sliding the belt on and off but at least I don't have to do it again for couple more years.
Cardboard absolutely works, I just learned a thing, good looks 🤘 If anyone needs to go the other direction on timing like I just did feed said cardboard into the cam gear.
Bro I must say this right freaking now!! The cardboard trick just saved me hours and hours of frustration. It got me in perfect time first try using it. Thank y'all so damn much guy's!!!!
@@HumbleMechanic just finished up timing. Now I gotta fix this stupid CTS fmic it keeps slipping off the turbo on the turbo cold side outlet :-( tbolt clamps aren't keeping it on sadly
Quick question.. I got the gates timing kit and it has the timing pulley that has the eccentric tab with the Allen hole and two small holes. It didn't come with a washer for behind that pulley... Is it supposed to have one or is that only the factory tensioner pulley?
@@HumbleMechanic I will for sure try that.. it doesn't help that my previous head was dumping oil down Into everything so all that lube may have been keeping it popping off
Nice video, great to use👍🏻 The cardboard idea is a good one. I also had to change the chain and tentioner not long ago which was a PITA at first but it went all right. With the timingbelt i just mark tdc on the old belt and gears and remark the new belt, that saved me a lot of time, after that i've replaced two more 1.8t and one 1.9tdi belts
AWESOME!! I have been watching your content for years since I had my MK4 Golf. I have been driving a low mile Canadian TT as a daily driver for 3 years now. I'm looking forward to your upcoming videos!!
Usually, I do not find your videos all that helpful. On this one, I did. Of course, it is a hell of a lot harder in a damned Beetle engine space.....which is where I am at right now.
I have to do the timing chain tensioner on my A4. This video was SUPER informative and I will use it for reference just to make sure everything is all good!
I watched this video a few months back, just did my valve stem seals so did the belt and waterpump as well while everything was apart. I wish I had remembered the cardboard trick. I had to put the belt on three times to get the timing correct lol, was one tooth off on the first two tries.
Thank you for this video. I have an AMB and I felt like giving up because of proper timing that needs to be done and underboost. But watching your video is inspiring to continue and not to give up on it.
Did you have any luck? I've been working on my amb motor for a cpl years now since the timing belt broke and I bent 3 or 4 valves 😢. I put new valves in the machine shop said the head looked good still besides the bent valves. I also replaced the springs with Brian crower springs and titanium clips. But I think I'm having issues with my timing.
If you are sure the engine is properly timed on the old belt, then the trick of marking the old belt and the crank and cam wheels before disassembly can help, transfer the belt marks to the new belt and align the new belt with the marks you made on the pulleys, that ensures you get the right number of belt teeth between cam and crank pulleys and avoids having to adjust after if it's not right 1st time round. When doing it in the car, as most people will be, it's definitely easier i.m.o. to get the belt maybe 10-20% on the water pump pulley 1st then get the belt started on the crank pulley and push both fully home at the same time.
Another method is to split the old timing belt down the middle with a sharp blade. This keeps the timing exact, so you can slip the new belt on half way, before cutting the remaining bit of the old belt. Saw this done by "Fuzz" on Car S.O.S
I just did this on a TT AMU engine. Could only get it on, a half tooth advanced. After some research, some of these engines were a half tooth advanced from the factory. The marks on the cams are your friend!
if you're one tooth off, big chance that you need to adjust it. If you're half a tooth off, most of the time it will correct it self after spinning the engine or even when you're tensioning the timing belt. When I do timing belt jobs, I usually back the crank gear off by half a tooth from the the TDC mark. The number one rule here is to keep the tensioner side slacky and the side where the crankgear is pulling on the belt tensioned. Most of the time my belts ends up a little slacky on the "pulling side" and when spinning the crankgear to TDC, it will correct itself and tension the "pulling side" of the belt.
Additional checking point : Counting from the TDC mark on the Cam Sprocket to the Nub on the Crank Sprocket results in a total of 68 teeth. (extract from the bentley service manual)
I went to swap in another cam chain tensioner and got it off a tooth a couple times. The final time I triple checked the position and counted the 16 link pins. Went to start but still running poorly (multiple misfire codes). Ended up for whatever reason the cam position sensor decided to fail. Fortunately I had another laying around from other projects. Afterwards fired right up and ran sweet. Needless to say I'm an expert at it now. lol
Wouldn't mind a water pump/thermostat and housing video. My 2015 gti has little leak there, and your videos are basically my Bible when it comes to doing anything to this car. Your knowledge and the way you explain things step by step is just super straightforward and helpful. Technically this is my second VW, but really it's the first I've had to do anything serious to. First was a B5 passat wagon, v6 5spd. Loved that car.
bro! wish i'd seen this last month. I struggled with that gap set on the intake cam timing chain. so much so i ended up snapping my brand new chain tensioner. Be careful, if you over tighten the chain tensioner tool, you're running a risk. Had to buy the part twice and do the job twice. I should of just pulled the motor like you. lol
Thanks for that, very helpful. Just starting a big job on one that badly over heated. Taking the head off for inspection as it lost a lot of compression. I hope the engine can be salvaged, only 60k on it.
Quick tip if you have the engine in the car and want to check timing marks a little easier, there's a plug on the bell housing you can take off and there's a timing mark on the flywheel 😉centered in the hole means the cam should also be lined up
I love too See you Videos. I am from Germany and am don't live far away from the factory where vw build's the passat. i love vw my self drive a passat b5 1.8t anb.
After watching your video I feel bad that my mechanic charged me only 1000$ for changing my TT's timing belt and water pump. Of course he didn't open the chain side of the timing, but it's a very detailed job in such a cramped area
I always enjoy doing timing belts on these engines because there is no way to secure the cams from moving (like you can by locking twin cam gears together), and everything shifts by a tooth or two by the time the belt rests in place.
it's the same for you, but you counted backward and started the count at 1 with the roller above the mark on the intake cam sprocket and ended the count with the 16th roller crossing to the first valley past the mark on the exhaust cam sprocket.
If I were using the 16-count method, I'd start from the front of the engine(where the pulleys are) looking at the timing marks. I'd count from the timing mark on the sprocket of the exhaust cam(left cam) to the 1st roller to the left of the mark and then count right for the rest of the 16 rollers. The 16th roller should be directly above the intake cam sprocket timing mark.
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Hope this gets you guys dialed in on Properly timing a 1.8t! Im working hard to get the full TT Series done soon. ITs gonna be awesome, and a total disaster HAHA
such awesome motors in my opinion can either make or break quite literally though haha
I can't wait for the TT series. My wife and I bought a basket case 2001 roadster - so far it's been a downpipe, turbo, 1 intercooler, oil pan, power steering reservoir and shifter bushings. Now the door cards are de-laminating at the top, the foam in the hvac system in disintegrating, the haldex doesn't work, and the CCM is failing. The wife wants it gone now, so I'll be patching it up and soon it can be someone else's problem.
just did this a month ago on a s3 8l :)), that cardboard thing it's very cool... i end up taking out the hydraulic tensioner putting the belt and then the tensioner :))
I've been waiting for your TT series since you bought it!
Great video! Im about to do timing belt and water pump on my TT with APX engine
Nice video, I have a 1.4t EA211 CZTA in a Jetta that need the timing belt done in a year and have been unable to find a private vw shop that has the tools to do it and the dealer is really expensive. Do you see yourself doing one of those or consider doing one of those or something in the same family in the near future?
I have the AEB. it's a really great engine, little to no maintance, good fuel economy and a lot of power. 26 Years long going strong.
Been having mine for about 9 months. Great car. 1.8t Atw
AWM in my 2002 Passat , great little car. 20 years old and it leaks no oil, barely burns any either. Have to add 1/4 of a quart between oil changes.
@@Janet_Airlines802 How many miles on it? I have a 2003 AWM, but burns some oil through the valve seals. 183,000 miles so far.
@@Janet_Airlines802 admitting i have 170k kilometres (i think 100k miles) and burn roughly 80ml/1000km, so i add 0.5l between oil changes
AWP owner, man these Audi vw turbo motors feel like nothing else from its time
The cardboard trick saved me a giant headache. This is genuinely the most useful trick I have ever seen and I cannot thank you enough.
Just used it today. I agree, best hack ever.
About to try it on mine right now. Wish me luck
The video has so many “likes” within minutes of posting. It hasn’t even been posted for enough time for people to have seen the entire video, but they’re loving it.
I love that too! LOL And I really do appreciate you guys for that.
It’s not surprising, you’re basically the Bob Ross of VW Audi.
That's because the price of a timing job now is approximately the same as the KBB on these cars. :P
Hahahah facts
I've seen a trick or two while working on cars, but the cardboard one really blew my mind.
Love the content, keep it going
Thanks for always helping out the community! Love the 1.8t content and especially EVERYTHING TT related!!
THANK YOU
To explain the intake cam gear being off a bit at the end, when you start the car and the chain tensioner fills with oil and pushes the chain upwards it pulls the chain so the notch on gear will line up.
Good information
Mind blown, thanks👍🏼
Mine has 16 rollers between marks, and the intake cam is advanced and doesn't line up right. Like you said, when I extend the tensioner all the way out, it lines up. That said, I'm getting a slight ticking noise and a P0011, which is Timing over advanced. Is my tensioner crap?
YES! Thank you Charles for finally doing a series of videos showing in depth technical stuff on the legendary 1.8T engine
@MrBananaPsycho Heyy, a little late to this comment but I had a couple of questions. I currently have a Jetta with a 1.8t AWP engine and I have been looking on how to delete my sai/evap as it’s currently giving me a headache 😅. Did you get any aftermarket parts that helped you out? Or did you DIY it and somehow made it work 😂. Would appreciate if you replied, thanks!!
Love the 1.8t,on my Audi i rotated the crank 1 tooth before TDC put on the belt and pulled the pin. It made everything line up perfectly.
So essentially it was the cardboard trick without the cardboard? And a little bit of foresight it would seem. Was your cam mark tdc?
@@johndoan8016 Yes, cam at TDC
One of the first cars I ever learned how to work on was a b6 A4 1.8t about 10 years ago. Chewed through three engines on that car. First one was underpowered and after replacing everything I could i swapped the engine only to find that the honeycomb in the cat was sitting sideways robbing power. The second engine caved when I applied too much silicone on the oil pan and head gasket. Third engine did the same thing because apparently i never learn. I timed each of those engines at least twice and this video gives me great nostalgia and shows the steps that I learned through mistakes. Great content as usual Charles!
Finally! A 1.8T timing video of both timing belt AND timing chain/tensioner!
Quick Question: How were you able to rotate the crank twice with the belt being off one tooth initially? Wouldn’t that invite some damage?
GREAT question.... 1 tooth off on this engine is not enough To damage rotating by hand. I have had these off a tooth and the car runs... NOT well but runs.
If this video was made in 2019 it would've saved me from browning my trousers when it was time to slip the belt over the WP. I kept thinking i've done something wrong or I ordered a smaller belt. It all went super well in the end.
Great vid for the ones who have yet to go through this process. 👍
Cheers 🍻
Thank you! Yea the belt can be tough to get on .
Thanks so much. Never done a engine with DOC like this before. Got a mk1 audi tt for cheap with a used engine to put in it. My mechanic brain said don't trust any work before you so water pump and all needed to be changed. Seeing it done is how I learn so I appreciate your time and effort.
I must say im surprised by my 1.8t. It smokes, the head rattles, has timing codes, it leaks coolant and a bit of oil. Its been this way for 3 of the 6 years i've owned it. Still gets 29ish MPG and does not stop. Best $1000 i've ever spent on a car
Me too hahahaha i’m in the exact same situation 417k on my ATW 1.8t and she still is a TANK
I didn’t put all the miles on it. But i got it recent and it’s a great ride
@@raymondmcfloss6225omg that’s insane
This video has spared me a huge headache today. I was working on a Golf mk4 AUM 1.8T car with high idle, misfires, hard start, and poor perfomance. What cured it? Humble Mechanic's detailed and straight-forward video. HM, you are right about that intake cam chain sprocket marking being off a bit. You should have seen me counting those chain rollers like a 5 year old coz I did not want to make a mistake🤣.
I did not have the special chain tensioner locking tool so I used one long zip tie. After so me fiddling, I scored the winning goal. Long story short, she purred like a kitten after. Thanks man.
-Sizwe, from South Africa
As someone who just blew a timing belt on their TT ALMS... this is perfect. Picking up my head from the machine shop with new valves, and going to use this to get everything back together correctly. Thanks Charles.
I just bought a turbo Beetle and changed out the timing belt and water pump . I am a professional mechanic , but I have never done a belt on the 1.8T before . So after watching this I had enough information to do the job . Engine is running good and I'm happy . Thanks for the information!!
AWESOME! Working in that small space is the toughest part on the beetle.
Ive done 2 timing belts on my MK3 1.8t just did my first MK6 2.0 TDI as well as several other non vw timing belts. Ive found it very helpful to mark the old belt to the sprockets making my own marks with sharpie or paint marker then counting teeth on the old belt. Transfer the marks to the new belt. This has saved me from having to replace torque to yield bolts on my TDI's cam and HPFP because the VW procedure has you loosen them for adjustment. The method I used did not require this and the rig pins and crank lock all lined up without issue. I figured if they timed it right at the factory, the gears should not need to be adjusted when using a n oem belt. Maybe I am wrong on that idea, but it worked out for my car. Hope this helps someone
For a belt swap I do that too.
If you’re a VW/Audi mechanic, you have a job for life.
I would never own a Euro but I just enjoy your videos SO much. After watching you and VAG Technic, definitely too much hassle
Owned two VW golfs with this engine, did 100k (miles) in each 💪🏻 That cardboard tip was amazing, only a pro would know about that 😁
I own a auto repair shop, I do a lot of vw/Audi work. I was doing a belt and chain on a 1.8 the other night and I watched this video and did the cardboard trick I can’t believe it worked! Thanks for showing that was really cool.
Hi, do you have any idea why there might be light vibrations felt in the cabin when accelerating?
Sweet vid!! I had a really great time in February timing my AWM engine and learning as I went. It was my second go-round so I tried to do as much as I could using my own noggin. Pulled cams all the way out, no timing belt, everything off and then back from square one. Just made sure to keep the crank where it was until the chains and belts were back on. Spun it many times to verify, then sealed her back up. Really fun. Would have been so much simpler if this video were out at the time.
I spent a lot of time pulling the lower timing cover on and off though hahahah
And valve cover lolol. Really got a feel for the engine which makes me feel good
Great engine.
Still driving my Passat B5.5 1.8t (AWT) with 270000km.
First time i was doing timing belt and i was scary a little bit. But after i have done all work i was proud to my self.
The worst thing on longitudinal 1.8t to change timing belt is removing front end 🤣🤣 but you get used to that .
I LOVE those. LOL Id take that belt over the transverse ones any day. When we were doing them often I could to a Passat 1.8t in about 35 minutes.
Just tried your cardboard trick, never seen that in years of wrestling timing belts and it worked a treat!!! You sir are a legend!!!
Awesome
I no longer own any VAG vehicles, I have the new Cooper S, but I still love and watch these videos !
Ive owned a 2002 Passat 1.8T AWM 170hp manual from 149,000kms to 250,000kms. It came to me with a full service history of doing 8-10,000kms oil changes on 5w40 castrol syntec. I kept doing the same thing. I'd also run liqui molly and pentosin 5w40 occasionally. At 200,000km I changed the timing belt and replaced the valve cover gasket. Engine was so shiny inside. Never had any start up rattle, never had any oil consumption. Never had pcv problems. Literally the only thing I've done to it in my 100,000km ownership was a full timing belt and water pump and a valve cover gasket. Also spark plugs and a broken plastic dipstick tube - I broke it at -35C weather... it was a pain to replace. It was the most amazing car I've had back then. I did change my clutch once - only the clutch, not the flywheel. And I've had a cracked engine mount. So really that's all I've done to the car over my ownership. Timing belt, clutch and engine mounts. I don't know why people are having so many issues with it. I never did. Car ran perfect. Never once did the cel come on... I'd gladly buy one again, but nowadays these are hard to come by with low mileage.
Main question.... does a 1.8t ever lose?
PS the acceptable answers are
- No
- 1.8t nEvAr lOsE
- 20v Ride or Die
only if you're too soon
Junior
YES! It loses water pumps, timing chain tensioners, valve cover gaskets, oil coolers, coolant flanges, catalytic converters, cooling fans, alternators, Coolant temp sensors, injector o-rings, And probably a bunch of other stuff.
LOL I always laugh when people talk about how "amazing" the 1.8t was.
NEVAR
It always wins.
@@HumbleMechanic I like to brag to my 1.8 friends that my aeg never has problems 😂 I'm over here Driving hundreds of miles to the bay and they can't even get their car to idle right
Not like I'd ever need this info, because I'll probably never be rebuilding a 1.8t (never lose). But these types of videos are still fascinating to watch. Great job Charles
Thank you
Hey Charles, as a former long term Audi/VW tech myself, I'll make it even easier for you having literally done hundreds of these T-Belts and dozens of cam adjuster/tensioner jobs both 1.8T and 30valve V6's.... Don't even bother with the damper pulley marks/dimples and paint dots. Instead, on the crank sprocket, the next tooth peak counter clockwise of which you paint marked is perfectly center lined/indexed with two of the threaded holes across the diameter with the center crank bolt. That bolt hole will/should always line up perfectly with the casting rib between the two mounting bolts of the crank seal housing/flange when the indexing nub is at about the 4 o'clock position. (3:16 of video right by your pointing pinky finger). Also, to double/triple check your T-Belt timing, the belt tooth count, not sprocket tooth, BELT tooth count between the nub on the crank sprocket and cam sprocket mark needs to be 68 teeth on the belt. When the belt is properly set, the cam timing notch/marks will be about 1/3 - 1/2 a tooth advanced on the cam sprocket to valve cover notches/marks. After a few heat and driving cycles, the cam notches will line up just fine. Focus more on the 68 tooth count on the belt.
Getting the T-Belt on can be a real pain cause they're so tight. I would just "roll them onto the crank sprocket". The old 8 valve 2.slows and AMB 1.8T's in the B6 chassis A4"s were exactly the same with the crank sprocket and such but easier to fit belts cause of their eccentric tensioner pulleys. The VW BPY engines and Audi BPG (I think) engine were also the same in crank sprocket alignment despite using six damper pulley bolts. (After that decade long class action suit over all the clapped out B5 chassis Passat's/A4's breaking T-Belts before their "105K service interval", VW actually came out with a new "Repair Kit" with an eccentric tensioner pulley and updated T-Belt # 06B109119"F" belt vs. #....119"A" belt. The new belt is an HNBR material belt made in Germany, more "heavy duty", basically the OE equivalent of those fancy Blue Gates branded "Racing" Timing Belts made of HNBR. The old ...119"A" belts made by ContiTech are no longer made in Germany but rather a country where workers ain't paid sh!t and therefore don't give a fvck about quality control. ME, I paid the few extra bucks for the ...."F" timing belt for my BEA powered TT for it's third T-Belt and still using the improved 2.0 FSI water pump. Now, if I could only figure out how to use the 2.0 FSI Kevlar reinforced 148 tooth T-Belt vs the 150 tooth HNBR 1.8T belt, I'd be a happy camper.
Literally timed my aww with this video repeating your steps. A day later, she's perfectly running and in time 👌
So excited to see more content on the 1.8t
Genius, I liked the cardboard trick. Those are the things that some mechanics know but prefer to keep to themselves. Thanks for sharing them with us.
Dude that cardboard trick is honestly WILD, I love it!
Your cardboard trick is amazing! I am in time perfectly due to you, thanks Charles!
If you are sure the engine is properly timed on the old belt, then the trick of marking the old belt and the crank and cam wheels before disassembly can help, transfer the belt marks to the new belt and align the new belt with the marks you made on the pulleys, that ensures you get the right number of belt teeth between cam and crank pulleys and avoids having to adjust after if it's not right 1st time round. When doing it in the car, as most people will be, it's definitely easier i.m.o. to get the belt maybe 10-20% on the water pump pulley 1st then get the belt started on the crank pulley and push both fully home at the same time.
Watching Car SOS this week I saw Fuzz take an interesting short cut on cam belt fitting. By slicing the old belt in half along its entire length. Removing the outside half and fitting the new belt alongside it. Then cut the remaining half off and slide the new belt all the way on.
th-cam.com/video/Tti7sGU1dOA/w-d-xo.htmlsi=6sV7CJpCNEdSpevc
I have a 2004 TT Quattro Roadster with the BEA 225hp engine. I had an issue where the timing mark on the Fluidampr was incorrect, however, I'd already watched this video and copied your extra timing marks, so once I copied the timing mark from the original crank pulley to the Fluidampr, everything went incredibly smoothly! To make sure it would remain in time after being tensioned, I pulled the tensioner to its tensioned position and instead of pulling the pin, I shoved an Allen key between the tensioner and the brace, which held the belt under tension without releasing the tensioner.
i dont own vw or audis. just enjoy watching charles fix shit. good stuff sir
THANK YOU!
Great video, as usual. I wish I had known about that cardboard trick during my ownership of a 1.8T Passat. Even after 3 timing belt replacements, I always ended up 1 tooth off on the first try. Also, extremely jealous of the AWP's simplified tensioner/roller system. The one on the AWM engines was awful!
Just refurbished my 1997 AEB head with 350k miles on it, recommend the shop manual for correct procedures. Did a compression test after reassembly and got factory new(!) values of 11-12.2 bars, amazing engine this.
Two things viewers should be aware of. The service manual calls for RVT on the cam chain tensioner gasket and the cam sprocket bridge. The other is that when counting the rollers on the cam chain, the first roller on the exhaust cam is slightly offset to the left of the timing mark.
on the whole gasket or in certain parts?
A little tip, as the TDC markings on the crankshaft are not always perfect as there may be some play on the vibration damper. You can also use the flywheel to help. There is a 0 mark and an I mark on the flywheel. If half of the 0 is visible (i.e. a C), then ideally cylinder 1 is also at TDC. This gives you another additional marking for TDC to check. But it only works when the gearbox is installed.
I cannot believe it. The cardboard trick worked perfectly. Thank you!
Thank you for this! It just came to me about 8 months too late! SO much confusion on roller count and where to count for the cam notches. Also the AWM timing mark is a very very slight dimple on the cover kind of like the one shown in the video. Great engine for a first time changing a timing belt! Pulling the front end forward on the AWM made it so much easier! I made the rods to slide the front end on, from old hardened steel shock rods i cut off, and the thread was the same as the frame bolts!
Thank you so much, I kept taking the belt on and off to line up the marks but it was always one tooth off and the cardboard trick saved me lol. My fingers hurt for sliding the belt on and off but at least I don't have to do it again for couple more years.
Cardboard absolutely works, I just learned a thing, good looks 🤘 If anyone needs to go the other direction on timing like I just did feed said cardboard into the cam gear.
I just searched your channel couple day's ago for this video you must have been reading my mind thank you for posting!
AWESOME!
Bro I must say this right freaking now!! The cardboard trick just saved me hours and hours of frustration. It got me in perfect time first try using it. Thank y'all so damn much guy's!!!!
That’s Awesome
@@HumbleMechanic just finished up timing. Now I gotta fix this stupid CTS fmic it keeps slipping off the turbo on the turbo cold side outlet :-( tbolt clamps aren't keeping it on sadly
Try some hairspray on the silicone hoses. That may help it hold
Quick question.. I got the gates timing kit and it has the timing pulley that has the eccentric tab with the Allen hole and two small holes. It didn't come with a washer for behind that pulley... Is it supposed to have one or is that only the factory tensioner pulley?
@@HumbleMechanic I will for sure try that.. it doesn't help that my previous head was dumping oil down Into everything so all that lube may have been keeping it popping off
I have 5 cilinder KU engine 2.2 in my Audi 100 from 1986 it's a really great engine
A huge thank you from France for this very qualitative video. Thumbs Up !
Nice video, great to use👍🏻 The cardboard idea is a good one. I also had to change the chain and tentioner not long ago which was a PITA at first but it went all right.
With the timingbelt i just mark tdc on the old belt and gears and remark the new belt, that saved me a lot of time, after that i've replaced two more 1.8t and one 1.9tdi belts
AWESOME!! I have been watching your content for years since I had my MK4 Golf. I have been driving a low mile Canadian TT as a daily driver for 3 years now. I'm looking forward to your upcoming videos!!
Usually, I do not find your videos all that helpful. On this one, I did. Of course, it is a hell of a lot harder in a damned Beetle engine space.....which is where I am at right now.
I have to do the timing chain tensioner on my A4. This video was SUPER informative and I will use it for reference just to make sure everything is all good!
I watched this video a few months back, just did my valve stem seals so did the belt and waterpump as well while everything was apart. I wish I had remembered the cardboard trick. I had to put the belt on three times to get the timing correct lol, was one tooth off on the first two tries.
Thank you for this video. I have an AMB and I felt like giving up because of proper timing that needs to be done and underboost. But watching your video is inspiring to continue and not to give up on it.
Did you have any luck? I've been working on my amb motor for a cpl years now since the timing belt broke and I bent 3 or 4 valves 😢. I put new valves in the machine shop said the head looked good still besides the bent valves. I also replaced the springs with Brian crower springs and titanium clips. But I think I'm having issues with my timing.
If you are sure the engine is properly timed on the old belt, then the trick of marking the old belt and the crank and cam wheels before disassembly can help, transfer the belt marks to the new belt and align the new belt with the marks you made on the pulleys, that ensures you get the right number of belt teeth between cam and crank pulleys and avoids having to adjust after if it's not right 1st time round. When doing it in the car, as most people will be, it's definitely easier i.m.o. to get the belt maybe 10-20% on the water pump pulley 1st then get the belt started on the crank pulley and push both fully home at the same time.
Another method is to split the old timing belt down the middle with a sharp blade. This keeps the timing exact, so you can slip the new belt on half way, before cutting the remaining bit of the old belt. Saw this done by "Fuzz" on Car S.O.S
The best education video about 1.8t owners. 👍
Quality of this video is over the top. Amazing.
thank you
Thank you Charles! I bought a passat wagon 1.8t last year. I need help with it so thanks bro! Be safe and take care!
I just did this on a TT AMU engine. Could only get it on, a half tooth advanced. After some research, some of these engines were a half tooth advanced from the factory. The marks on the cams are your friend!
Charles the cardboard method is really the outstanding method i ever hear 😂😂😂😂
if you're one tooth off, big chance that you need to adjust it. If you're half a tooth off, most of the time it will correct it self after spinning the engine or even when you're tensioning the timing belt. When I do timing belt jobs, I usually back the crank gear off by half a tooth from the the TDC mark. The number one rule here is to keep the tensioner side slacky and the side where the crankgear is pulling on the belt tensioned. Most of the time my belts ends up a little slacky on the "pulling side" and when spinning the crankgear to TDC, it will correct itself and tension the "pulling side" of the belt.
Humble guy strikes again LOL. Great video Charles, cant wait for TT series, love Mk1 TTs.
Great video! Now I'm confident I can tackle this in my beetle eventually
Great video. I do the same thing when I put the belts on too. I do it with the serpentine belts too
Additional checking point : Counting from the TDC mark on the Cam Sprocket to the Nub on the Crank Sprocket results in a total of 68 teeth. (extract from the bentley service manual)
NICE! I always worry Id lose count. LOL
Love the videos. For us physics folks Newton-meter is abbreviated Nm (nm is nanometers)
I have been longing for one of these vids. Thanks
Glad we finally got there. LOL
Jeez, did my timing belt 2 weeks ago. Will most definitely enjoy this video tho
LOL Im always just a little too late.
Great video, is difficult to explain the timing of this 1.8T better !!!
When I hit 400k km I'm gonna treat my car to new t belt and cam chains, and a bigger turbo. Best engine ever ❤️
doing a 1.8t swap on my 1.6 16v golf wagon
really helpfull video
I went to swap in another cam chain tensioner and got it off a tooth a couple times. The final time I triple checked the position and counted the 16 link pins. Went to start but still running poorly (multiple misfire codes). Ended up for whatever reason the cam position sensor decided to fail. Fortunately I had another laying around from other projects. Afterwards fired right up and ran sweet. Needless to say I'm an expert at it now. lol
Wouldn't mind a water pump/thermostat and housing video. My 2015 gti has little leak there, and your videos are basically my Bible when it comes to doing anything to this car. Your knowledge and the way you explain things step by step is just super straightforward and helpful. Technically this is my second VW, but really it's the first I've had to do anything serious to. First was a B5 passat wagon, v6 5spd. Loved that car.
This is a 1.8t from a mk4.
Charles, thank You. Me and my 98 Golf AGU appreciate Your work. 👍🤝
I absolutely love this engine. I have the same engine code AWP in my ‘05 GLI … quick and fun engine. Vroom vroom
bro! wish i'd seen this last month. I struggled with that gap set on the intake cam timing chain. so much so i ended up snapping my brand new chain tensioner. Be careful, if you over tighten the chain tensioner tool, you're running a risk. Had to buy the part twice and do the job twice. I should of just pulled the motor like you. lol
Oh man That stinks. Hopefully its back in action now?
Thanks for the Video. It was very helpful, specially the cardboard trick to skip a teeth on the belt after tensioned
Thanks for that, very helpful. Just starting a big job on one that badly over heated. Taking the head off for inspection as it lost a lot of compression. I hope the engine can be salvaged, only 60k on it.
You are the absolute best teacher ! Thank you. You save me so much
Happy to hear that!
Awesome 👌 video you are a real clever guy,and your explanations are so easy to understand. THANKS SO MUCH.
Hell yeah some good old 1.8t content thats awsome
Thanks for this guide, excellent timing as I'm just about to change the cam chain and fit a manual tensioner on the belt!
Thanks you my friend, Greetings from the Canary Islands 🇮🇨👋🏻👏🏻
Quick tip if you have the engine in the car and want to check timing marks a little easier, there's a plug on the bell housing you can take off and there's a timing mark on the flywheel 😉centered in the hole means the cam should also be lined up
Had to do a timing job on my mkv engine when the chain side snapped. Very similar to the BPY engine. Thanks for the video.
@11:16 that tip is worth a million dollars. Thank you!
Thanks a lot. Head and block milled. All new valves. This helped a lot.
Lovely video, interesting narration . A big thank you for the good work.
I love too See you Videos. I am from Germany and am don't live far away from the factory where vw build's the passat.
i love vw my self drive a passat b5 1.8t anb.
I have the AWM, great little engine, been very reliable.
Great cardboard trick! I have always pulled the belt back off and on a few times until it’s right. I will try cardboard trick next time. 😀
After watching your video I feel bad that my mechanic charged me only 1000$ for changing my TT's timing belt and water pump. Of course he didn't open the chain side of the timing, but it's a very detailed job in such a cramped area
I love Your channel, super helpful for a 1.8T enthusiast like myself. All the respect to You! 💯💪👍
I appreciate that!
Can’t wait! Love your rebuild series
Thank you for the video. Cardboard trick is great worked for me first go 🙂
I always enjoy doing timing belts on these engines because there is no way to secure the cams from moving (like you can by locking twin cam gears together), and everything shifts by a tooth or two by the time the belt rests in place.
This vid is just the tip of the iceberg. 👍🏽 Waiting for the part where the half moon leaks after install. 😆
For the VW ATW 1.8t 20v timing chain, it's 15 rollers apart from(14 rollers in between) the marks.
it's the same for you, but you counted backward and started the count at 1 with the roller above the mark on the intake cam sprocket and ended the count with the 16th roller crossing to the first valley past the mark on the exhaust cam sprocket.
If I were using the 16-count method, I'd start from the front of the engine(where the pulleys are) looking at the timing marks. I'd count from the timing mark on the sprocket of the exhaust cam(left cam) to the 1st roller to the left of the mark and then count right for the rest of the 16 rollers.
The 16th roller should be directly above the intake cam sprocket timing mark.
great video btw! 😶🌫
I miss these engines!
Back when you could do a timing belt in 30-45 minutes without looking like you've brawled with a cat afterwards...
LOL The 1.8t Passat was my fav.