Mark you are full of great knowledge, and very helpful for all us Honda guys. I do have one question, what did you mean about jumping the blue plug you could read your codes? Thanks Mike
The Blue plug is a diagnostic connector, you put a jumper in it with the key turned off, then turn the key to KOEO (Key on engine off) and the Check engine light will blink out the error codes if there are any present in the ECU
I’ve came across all of these issues atleast once doing all of my swaps! Great info. I’m saving this to a playlist, great info. Wish I could of watched this video first when doing my EF Dpfi-MPFi obd0-obd1 vtec swap. I ended up flooding the engine because of the distributor wiring. And possibly toasted the piston rings in the process. Lesson learned the hard way.
I agree with everyone ,you have great knowledge mark , your channel has helped me a shit ton when it comes to doing somthing to my ek , keep them videos comming i love this channel my favorite out of all the ones i seen !
Honestly was hoping this video was more K swap help oriented. The things to troubleshoot especially with Kpro in an EG chassis! Actually both of what your white coupe IS.
Appreciate all the information, I just did my first swap. I took a B20b/GSR combo out of a swapped EG, into a 98HX. However I'm not getting any fuel pump prime or action from the starter. Key in will beep, lights and blower/ radio will work but nothing past that. I went through and checked my grounds, actually pulled them off and brushed everything clean. Is there anything else you could possibly think of or something I might have over looked (also side notes- using the obd2a to obd1 jumper - injector adapter harness, and - the dizzy adapter plug. )
Man i love your videos keep it up!! I remember the one time my car wouldn't start because of the starter and in another video you talked about the fuel pump prime noise and engine light so it helped me a lot in figuring that out
Mark, I have a 92 civic VX manual and I'm trying to swap a B18C1 into the hatch. What wiring harness could I use so that the installation is a plug and play affair? Great video, keep the content coming!
Time to try the ground trick...I have a heat soak issue. 1999 Honda Civic EX i swapped in a B20..She gives me hell when trying to start hot. Takes way too long and end up having to wait at least 30 plus minutes. No engine light car runs and idle likes a dream
I have a '90 EF that I converted to OBD1 MPFI. It starts instantly and runs great with no CEL...until you hit 45mph. As soon as I hit 45, I get a code 4 and it goes into limp mode. Thoughts?
To anyone who may be able to help: I have an 04 civic coupe EX with a k20a3 swap that I bought from a friend when my car was totaled. Ran great for about 3 months but recently I have been having a intermittent issue getting it to crank up. Some times it’ll start up first try, sometimes 2-3 tries then it’ll start, and sometimes not at all. I’ve checked fuel pressure to the fuel rail and spark and both are just fine. It’ll just keep turning over when the issue is present. From what I’ve seen, it may be a immobilizer issue but the only symptom I have for that is the green key light that comes on the dash when I put the key no longer illuminates. I’ve tried pulling the codes but the scanner I used won’t connect. Any suggestions?
Hey boss, great video with insights on starting issues for swaps. I have my first. 99 lx with a D series y7 to swap for a d16y8 and want to run a 97 civic ex p2p ecu. Can i swap the engine and keep the distributor, temporarily until i have time to repin the harness to the ecu? Will this combination work if i repin the existing harness to the ecu? Thanks for any info boss.
So what if my chipped p28 suddenly stopped priming the fuel pump before start up sometimes? It was intermittent. I ended up swapping that p28 with a different p28 and transplanting my hondata into the new one. Now it runs like absolute doodoo.
Heyy I just swapped a b18b1 in my civic I did not ground it properly but we still got it to fire by jumping the starter it ran for abit I accidentally put it in gear and it stalled we grounded transmission and everything so it turns over without jumpin but now it’s not getting any spark , , spark plugs are soaked have you guys every ran into this !?
Just did a b20b8 swap in my 98 y8 Civic im using a 98 teggy gs obd2a p75-a04 ecu..its is getting fuel pressure and spark and still wouldn't start I had checked everything even the ground straps after about 15 minutes trying to figure it out.. found out the injectors were stuck close (engine was likely sitting up for two or more years with an open fuel line) after lighty tapping on each injector it finally ran. I also had to get a new alternator the obd2a Y8 wiring harness used a square 4 pin plug B20 had an oval 3 pin The knock sensor plug in the Y8 wire harness we're a little bit different..had to cut the knock sensor plug off on the B20s severed harness, cut off the y8 plug then splice the b20 plug in the Y8 harness.
Dope channel. Super informative. Quick question for you, when replacing the timing belt on a b18 LS. If everything was TDC and in the process of buttoning everything back up something came out of time and the engine was started what kind of damage would come from it?
hey man i need some assistance, I just got done putting a b20b into a da9, the car was drivable before but SUCKED, anyway it started up fine, got the idle going great and sat at idle for like 10 minutes running beautifully, then it cut out with no sputtering just dash lights then dead. we found a blown ecu fuse, replaced it and still no start, just crank. then we checked and had no spark so we replaced the igniter and coil with the old one cause we knew that one was good, and still no start. when i re-checked the ecu fuse it had blown again. the only thing not hooked up is a green plug from the harness that the b20 has no fitting for on the back side. can you help?
I got a 96 civic hb with a b18b everything is plug but when i turn the key the chek engine light dont get on and the main relay do not get activated (im using the jdi relay) i chek the main relay plug with the tester and it have voltage what it could be the problem?
i hear a p75 for the b20 is MEH because it doesnt run enough fuel for the b20, but others say ls’ actually run fairly rich stock so it could even out for the b20. my guess is get an FPR just to be on the safe side?
Good day.....love your knowledge....my question is I have a 1991 Honda accord ex 4 door bought the car with according to seller a h23a1 jdm engine non vtec. What can I do to make more power? Where can I find hasport mounts? Where can I get a k-tuned type short shifter? Where can I shop? Am I obd1 or obd2? Help help help please
Hi, thank you for the info.. I have a problem with a 1988 Honda Civic .. the car has been sitting for about a year with the issue that it cranks but won't start because it has no spark. I have installed a new battery, a new distributor, put in fresh gasoline, did an oil change and the car has a new main relay.. the relay is about two years old.. The car is located in a very hot country where temperatures are about 90 degrees farenheight and humid, which is the reason why I replaced battery and main relay.. I also checked battery cables and grounds.. The ground goes from battery negative to engine block.. Did not find any other ground cables.. I also checked all fuses but no blown fuses.. But still I have no spark..However, I did noticed that when I turn key to "ON" position, the check engine light does not go out but remains on ... what do you think could be the cause? Also, the technometer that monitors engine RPM does not move when cranking engine.. any ideas? thank you for your help..
Ground battery cable hooks up to transmission then u have a ground cable that hooks up to thermostat housing then a ground from chassis to valve cover nut
this is all good info and you really know your stuff, with respect im in ontario canada and a k series engine starts around 3 k the you also need axles and ecu programmed so i dont know where your located to say 200 to 400 for a k24A engine please let me know as it might be worth shipping to CANADA. thanks
What’s up man having a problem with my b20 swap in my 98 civic hatch dx. Got the car with the stock d16y7 swapped its last year with a full ls (b18b1) swap went together perfect but for some reason this b20 is giving me the hardest time. Week before Christmas lost compression in cyclinder 4 on the b18 so picked up this jdm b20 for a good deal ran like shit skees check everything comp 210 in all cylinders legit perfect 210 no joke. Check spark plugs fuel filter everything looks good. Fuel pressure stays between 40-45 at idle. It idles perfect but when I drive and get any type of spend it stutters feels like fuel cut but I don’t know where from. Injectors?
I just swapped ecu out of my 2005 civic 1.7l coupe VP with the same exact ECU part numbers & had it programmed & key paired with immobilizer. Now it won't prime at all.
Year late but I had a burnet ECU but it was repairable luckily but because I abuse the Fck out of my B20vtec engine gave out time for me to throw in my other B20vtec waiting to be put in
Aloha from hawaii. Just wanted to say I enjoy watching your videos. I was wondering if there is anyway I can contact you to ask you some questions about my build on my civic. Look forward to your response. Mahalo!
So i have a k20z1 with a a2 trans, a2 harness and kprov4 in a 05 em2 and chameleon tuned my car and dealt with the car for most the swap but im having some serious issues with it. 3 months ago or so i threw a CEL for camshaft position sensor malfunction A BANK1 and the car would sometimes stall out randomly and then the car would drive normally. It hasnt happened in awhile. Untill recently i was driving and all of asudden my car goes in to limp mode and wont go past 2k rpms and then throws a code for the crank sensor. Also note that when the CEL popped up it dissapeared it never stayed on the dash they always dissapeared. So i did a few things 1.changed crank sensor 2. changed my fuel pump 3. Checked the timing but it looks like it might be off by a tooth 3. Changed spark plugs and noticed they were gunked up black 4.i changed the pcv valve 5. Changed camshaft sensors 6. checked fuses Also the car looks like its running rich. The car doesnt seem to want to get out of limp mode and i was doing research and they said it could be because my timing, my ecu is fucked up and or bad or corroded wire connectors but i checked the connectors and they dont look bad well to me atleast. This car is my daily and i started school so i need to figure this ish out and an obd2 scanner isnt showing any codes along with the hondata bluetooth app isnt showing anything and the scanner isnt showing anything for that matter doesnt show rpms or voltages, or anything
I have a 99 civic with k24a2 swap with type s engine harness and k tuned harness with a jdm ecu 37820 Prc-013 install everything as it says k tuned but the fuel pump is not prime the mail relay is new
2000 crv rtawd b20z2 stock. cranks but no start has spark fuel pressure changed the crankshaft position sensor an no check engine light at all distributor changed nothing. Spark plugs were black
We ran the car as soon as we put the head and valve cover back on bit im wantin to get it out and start driving it again and finish it.... i would like to see what you say
Help please...I have a 91 ef with a zc swap. I didn't do the work myself bought it that way. But the starter is kicking out but not turning the motor. Just had starter tested..its good. New battery and the motor is not stuck I can turn it by hand.
Man bro I really wish I could call you. I’m from seattle wa and just recently installed the hybrid racing ac kit on my 95 si hatchback. After I changed the setting in k manager white key on, engine off the radiator came on right away and then when I started engine the compressor was on also. I still need to check a few things but man would I love to chat with u for 5 mins. Let me know if you can make that happen
I have a question. I did a b16 obd2 on a 97 ek and everything was running fine for the first two months but than I started getting idle issues and check engine light. I checked the code and it was bad iddle controll valve so I got a new one from orally but it actually made it worse. So I went to the junk yard and got another one used and it work fine again for about two months and than the same thing happen. Now every time I change it it only last a couple days or the longest it would go will be a week. I re checked the wiring and everything looks good
Fellows pls respond back due to this is my only car for work and things are really hard in life right now.. pls I beg you I have a 95 integra gsr and it was running fine.. I stop for gas then it didnt start back up I get dash lights and I replaced the starter it wasn't it
Hey bro . I have Honda Civic 98 sir and did some mixing with block B20 with B16 it was working fine and now it crank but won't start I check for spark it's ok fuel I don't hear it and check the fuel pump out side and it's working the fuse is ok but when I put is back there is no start for fuel pump and try jump wire directly it was on cranking but still no start . Can you tell me what to check
Hey brother my friend had a d16y7 civic and has a d16z6 engine...what will he need to be able to do this swap for everything to plug and work? Thank you man
Im having issues on my b20v swap in a ek civic. I have fuel and pressure going to the fuel rail and injectors but all my injectors won't prime or open so unfortunately I have no fuel going into the engine to start it up. 96 civic dx, using a 98 civic ex 5spd harness on a chipped p72. Any idea where to start?
Can you guys help me I have a 94 integra with b20b starts up but then turns off. I've changed the fuel pump, fuel filter, spark plugs, main relay, tps, iacv, map, all grounds are good. I even changed the injectors. I am running a p28. Car has been running good for couple months. Was at TMobile one day turned the car off and never turned back on.
Hey i have a question i cant find the answer i have a 2001 honda accord lx 4cl i did a jdm h22a obd1 i convert the harness and and everything the car turns on and run with stock accord computer but i recently i bout a s300 v3 p28 i put a base map on it gsr so i can get it to a tuner but the car wont start with the ecu it wont prime from the pump check engine is on stay solid wile cranking but wont fired cuz is not getting no fuel or spark but i connect the stock accord 4 cl ecu will start right up any ideas!?
The wires on my main relay have been cut and never attached properly... took over a year to figure that out ( it's a Da ) looked like someone wanted to attach a kill switch
d16y4 swap to b18c2 what wiring harness need i add or i need to take off all the integra harness and put in my car ,, any easy way to wiring the harness
k24a2 swapped ek. 04 type s harness, kpro ecu. all grounds checked blah blah simple shit checked. car isnt getting spark and when the fuel rail is out and cranking the car nothing is coming out even tho they are clean and flow out of the car. 50 psi fuel pressure and immobilizer and multiplex disabled. what should i be looking for to fix this?
Hey I have an ex 98 civic coupe with an 94 honda prelude h22a jdm ob1 I bought it running it has the stock ecu but they crossed it but I bought new distributer but was listining to some of the ground but is it the same for the h22a
I have a 99 civic coupe swapped with a b18b block and b16 head car runs perfect with no issue the only problem is that when am going to do a cold start it doesn't start on the first try until I try on the second time it turns on does anyone have any idea??
I have done a b series swap on my ek ... When i put the battery in , 2 or 3 lights come on without the key in it .. and when I turn the ignition on only the handbrake light and just clicks when I try and start , please help
![ILLSLICK - WINTER IS COMING [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/dwTMeM1zIhQ/mqdefault.jpg)
The amount of knowledge you just kicked....and not to mention the countless amount of people you just saved
FACTS !!!!!!🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥😬💪💪💪💪💪👍💯💯💯💯💯💯
Good video mark 👌💪 happy to see a knowledgeable person like yourself sharing info for the people coming up in the honda world.
I am so glad I found this video! Thanks for the info!
This is a gem of the internet kingdom.
Mark you are full of great knowledge, and very helpful for all us Honda guys.
I do have one question, what did you mean about jumping the blue plug you could read your codes?
Thanks Mike
The Blue plug is a diagnostic connector, you put a jumper in it with the key turned off, then turn the key to KOEO (Key on engine off) and the Check engine light will blink out the error codes if there are any present in the ECU
CZ_Mate
Im putting a OBD1 F22B DOHC In a 99 Acura CL And I have no idea wtf Im doing lol
How’s that project going 2 years later? 🙂
Pro like INFORMATION bro !!!!!!! We the honda people thank you.
I’ve came across all of these issues atleast once doing all of my swaps! Great info. I’m saving this to a playlist, great info. Wish I could of watched this video first when doing my EF Dpfi-MPFi obd0-obd1 vtec swap. I ended up flooding the engine because of the distributor wiring. And possibly toasted the piston rings in the process. Lesson learned the hard way.
I agree with everyone ,you have great knowledge mark , your channel has helped me a shit ton when it comes to doing somthing to my ek , keep them videos comming i love this channel my favorite out of all the ones i seen !
A lot of of cool knowledge and tips. Always great videos man
Honestly was hoping this video was more K swap help oriented. The things to troubleshoot especially with Kpro in an EG chassis! Actually both of what your white coupe IS.
First I watched it and I liked , guy is knowledgeable like serious. Thanks
Bro you are a goat😤🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽 very informative video I love it bro keep grinding!!!❤️❤️ wish you the best !!
I’m using a obd2 dizzy housing with the obd1 internals and wiring harness so the dizzy fits right and the harness is plug n play
i never knew that transmission ground wire was soooo important...Man!!! Thanks guys
Appreciate all the information, I just did my first swap. I took a B20b/GSR combo out of a swapped EG, into a 98HX. However I'm not getting any fuel pump prime or action from the starter. Key in will beep, lights and blower/ radio will work but nothing past that. I went through and checked my grounds, actually pulled them off and brushed everything clean.
Is there anything else you could possibly think of or something I might have over looked (also side notes- using the obd2a to obd1 jumper - injector adapter harness, and - the dizzy adapter plug. )
Man i love your videos keep it up!! I remember the one time my car wouldn't start because of the starter and in another video you talked about the fuel pump prime noise and engine light so it helped me a lot in figuring that out
Mark, great insight into the Honda tuning scene. Keep the content coming!!
Bro I'm glad your getting back to your roots!!!
My map sensor and tps were switched when I got my b16 eg and ironically it ran just fine just had a check engine light
Mark, I have a 92 civic VX manual and I'm trying to swap a B18C1 into the hatch. What wiring harness could I use so that the installation is a plug and play affair? Great video, keep the content coming!
Time to try the ground trick...I have a heat soak issue. 1999 Honda Civic EX i swapped in a B20..She gives me hell when trying to start hot. Takes way too long and end up having to wait at least 30 plus minutes. No engine light car runs and idle likes a dream
Great video i appreciate your experience I was trying to start my d16z6 build and would not start I forgot about the engine and transmission grounds
I have a '90 EF that I converted to OBD1 MPFI. It starts instantly and runs great with no CEL...until you hit 45mph. As soon as I hit 45, I get a code 4 and it goes into limp mode. Thoughts?
To anyone who may be able to help: I have an 04 civic coupe EX with a k20a3 swap that I bought from a friend when my car was totaled. Ran great for about 3 months but recently I have been having a intermittent issue getting it to crank up. Some times it’ll start up first try, sometimes 2-3 tries then it’ll start, and sometimes not at all. I’ve checked fuel pressure to the fuel rail and spark and both are just fine. It’ll just keep turning over when the issue is present. From what I’ve seen, it may be a immobilizer issue but the only symptom I have for that is the green key light that comes on the dash when I put the key no longer illuminates. I’ve tried pulling the codes but the scanner I used won’t connect. Any suggestions?
I love this video good stuff man I hope you can do one on a b16A JDM I know they don’t have cranksensor so gotta by pass the ecu for the crank sensor
Men great video and very helpful watching you from Oregon
Hey boss, great video with insights on starting issues for swaps. I have my first. 99 lx with a D series y7 to swap for a d16y8 and want to run a 97 civic ex p2p ecu. Can i swap the engine and keep the distributor, temporarily until i have time to repin the harness to the ecu? Will this combination work if i repin the existing harness to the ecu? Thanks for any info boss.
Definitely helped a lot was swapping my b16 into my ej1
So what if my chipped p28 suddenly stopped priming the fuel pump before start up sometimes? It was intermittent. I ended up swapping that p28 with a different p28 and transplanting my hondata into the new one. Now it runs like absolute doodoo.
Heyy I just swapped a b18b1 in my civic I did not ground it properly but we still got it to fire by jumping the starter it ran for abit I accidentally put it in gear and it stalled we grounded transmission and everything so it turns over without jumpin but now it’s not getting any spark , , spark plugs are soaked have you guys every ran into this !?
Just did a b20b8 swap in my 98 y8
Civic im using a 98 teggy gs obd2a p75-a04 ecu..its is getting fuel pressure and spark and still wouldn't start I had checked everything even the ground straps after about 15 minutes trying to figure it out.. found out the injectors were stuck close (engine was likely sitting up for two or more years with an open fuel line) after lighty tapping on each injector it finally ran.
I also had to get a new alternator the obd2a Y8 wiring harness used a square 4 pin plug B20 had an oval 3 pin
The knock sensor plug in the Y8 wire harness we're a little bit different..had to cut the knock sensor plug off on the B20s severed harness, cut off the y8 plug then splice the b20 plug in the Y8 harness.
Dope channel. Super informative. Quick question for you, when replacing the timing belt on a b18 LS. If everything was TDC and in the process of buttoning everything back up something came out of time and the engine was started what kind of damage would come from it?
Piston hitting valves. Big damage bent valves and damaged pistons
hey man i need some assistance, I just got done putting a b20b into a da9, the car was drivable before but SUCKED, anyway it started up fine, got the idle going great and sat at idle for like 10 minutes running beautifully, then it cut out with no sputtering just dash lights then dead. we found a blown ecu fuse, replaced it and still no start, just crank. then we checked and had no spark so we replaced the igniter and coil with the old one cause we knew that one was good, and still no start. when i re-checked the ecu fuse it had blown again. the only thing not hooked up is a green plug from the harness that the b20 has no fitting for on the back side. can you help?
Thank you for the knowledge mark, keep it up.
I got a 96 civic hb with a b18b everything is plug but when i turn the key the chek engine light dont get on and the main relay do not get activated (im using the jdi relay) i chek the main relay plug with the tester and it have voltage what it could be the problem?
Mark first thing is grounds!!! Most common mistake especially fuel ground !!! Very very common
i hear a p75 for the b20 is MEH because it doesnt run enough fuel for the b20, but others say ls’ actually run fairly rich stock so it could even out for the b20. my guess is get an FPR just to be on the safe side?
Man this video should help a lot of people!
Where would I go look at for the power wire that fires the dizzy. From plug c101? Can u get no spark of that wire doesn’t light up on a light test?
Good day.....love your knowledge....my question is I have a 1991 Honda accord ex 4 door bought the car with according to seller a h23a1 jdm engine non vtec. What can I do to make more power? Where can I find hasport mounts? Where can I get a k-tuned type short shifter? Where can I shop? Am I obd1 or obd2? Help help help please
Hi, thank you for the info.. I have a problem with a 1988 Honda Civic .. the car has been sitting for about a year with the issue that it cranks but won't start because it has no spark. I have installed a new battery, a new distributor, put in fresh gasoline, did an oil change and the car has a new main relay.. the relay is about two years old.. The car is located in a very hot country where temperatures are about 90 degrees farenheight and humid, which is the reason why I replaced battery and main relay.. I also checked battery cables and grounds.. The ground goes from battery negative to engine block.. Did not find any other ground cables.. I also checked all fuses but no blown fuses.. But still I have no spark..However, I did noticed that when I turn key to "ON" position, the check engine light does not go out but remains on ... what do you think could be the cause? Also, the technometer that monitors engine RPM does not move when cranking engine.. any ideas? thank you for your help..
Ground battery cable hooks up to transmission then u have a ground cable that hooks up to thermostat housing then a ground from chassis to valve cover nut
Alpheus Newby did you get this figured out
this is all good info and you really know your stuff, with respect im in ontario canada and a k series engine starts around 3 k the you also need axles and ecu programmed so i dont know
where your located to say 200 to 400 for a k24A engine please let me know as it might be worth shipping to CANADA. thanks
What’s up man having a problem with my b20 swap in my 98 civic hatch dx. Got the car with the stock d16y7 swapped its last year with a full ls (b18b1) swap went together perfect but for some reason this b20 is giving me the hardest time. Week before Christmas lost compression in cyclinder 4 on the b18 so picked up this jdm b20 for a good deal ran like shit skees check everything comp 210 in all cylinders legit perfect 210 no joke. Check spark plugs fuel filter everything looks good. Fuel pressure stays between 40-45 at idle. It idles perfect but when I drive and get any type of spend it stutters feels like fuel cut but I don’t know where from. Injectors?
I just swapped ecu out of my 2005 civic 1.7l coupe VP with the same exact ECU part numbers & had it programmed & key paired with immobilizer. Now it won't prime at all.
My Issue on my OBD1 B series is that whenever I use a P06 Chipped ECU it would crank and won’t start but when I put a Stock GSR it would start normal
Year late but I had a burnet ECU but it was repairable luckily but because I abuse the Fck out of my B20vtec engine gave out time for me to throw in my other B20vtec waiting to be put in
Aloha from hawaii. Just wanted to say I enjoy watching your videos. I was wondering if there is anyway I can contact you to ask you some questions about my build on my civic. Look forward to your response. Mahalo!
I’m swapping an obd2 ls into a ob2 ek with 3 wire crank sensor. And the ls is a 2 wire crank sensor. Any advice on how to go on with the sensor ?
Loving these informative videos 🤘🏻
So i have a k20z1 with a a2 trans, a2 harness and kprov4 in a 05 em2 and chameleon tuned my car and dealt with the car for most the swap but im having some serious issues with it. 3 months ago or so i threw a CEL for camshaft position sensor malfunction A BANK1 and the car would sometimes stall out randomly and then the car would drive normally. It hasnt happened in awhile. Untill recently i was driving and all of asudden my car goes in to limp mode and wont go past 2k rpms and then throws a code for the crank sensor. Also note that when the CEL popped up it dissapeared it never stayed on the dash they always dissapeared. So i did a few things 1.changed crank sensor 2. changed my fuel pump 3. Checked the timing but it looks like it might be off by a tooth 3. Changed spark plugs and noticed they were gunked up black 4.i changed the pcv valve 5. Changed camshaft sensors 6. checked fuses Also the car looks like its running rich. The car doesnt seem to want to get out of limp mode and i was doing research and they said it could be because my timing, my ecu is fucked up and or bad or corroded wire connectors but i checked the connectors and they dont look bad well to me atleast. This car is my daily and i started school so i need to figure this ish out and an obd2 scanner isnt showing any codes along with the hondata bluetooth app isnt showing anything and the scanner isnt showing anything for that matter doesnt show rpms or voltages, or anything
Love the vids broski!!!
Thank you for all you great work.
Best thing to use is dielectric grease for grounds
I have a 99 civic with k24a2 swap with type s engine harness and k tuned harness with a jdm ecu 37820 Prc-013 install everything as it says k tuned but the fuel pump is not prime the mail relay is new
2000 crv rtawd b20z2 stock. cranks but no start has spark fuel pressure changed the crankshaft position sensor an no check engine light at all distributor changed nothing. Spark plugs were black
We ran the car as soon as we put the head and valve cover back on bit im wantin to get it out and start driving it again and finish it.... i would like to see what you say
Help please...I have a 91 ef with a zc swap. I didn't do the work myself bought it that way. But the starter is kicking out but not turning the motor. Just had starter tested..its good. New battery and the motor is not stuck I can turn it by hand.
Man bro I really wish I could call you. I’m from seattle wa and just recently installed the hybrid racing ac kit on my 95 si hatchback. After I changed the setting in k manager white key on, engine off the radiator came on right away and then when I started engine the compressor was on also. I still need to check a few things but man would I love to chat with u for 5 mins. Let me know if you can make that happen
My fuel pump won't come on maybe my e1 connector? I have good grounds on engine bay, relays are good and fuses are good. Just no power to fuel pump.
For k24 kpro v4
If your doing a b20b swap , after changing the oil pump to a U.S one, don't forget the U.S. crankshaft gear. That CFK will never read. . .
I have a 1999 Honda crx and when I try to start it no crank no start
I have a question. I did a b16 obd2 on a 97 ek and everything was running fine for the first two months but than I started getting idle issues and check engine light. I checked the code and it was bad iddle controll valve so I got a new one from orally but it actually made it worse. So I went to the junk yard and got another one used and it work fine again for about two months and than the same thing happen. Now every time I change it it only last a couple days or the longest it would go will be a week. I re checked the wiring and everything looks good
Fellows pls respond back due to this is my only car for work and things are really hard in life right now.. pls I beg you I have a 95 integra gsr and it was running fine.. I stop for gas then it didnt start back up I get dash lights and I replaced the starter it wasn't it
Hey bro . I have Honda Civic 98 sir and did some mixing with block B20 with B16 it was working fine and now it crank but won't start I check for spark it's ok fuel I don't hear it and check the fuel pump out side and it's working the fuse is ok but when I put is back there is no start for fuel pump and try jump wire directly it was on cranking but still no start . Can you tell me what to check
Map sensor always has green wire in the middle in the plug, for those who never knew.
Yo bro any tips on deleting charcoal canister and no check engine light?
Hey brother my friend had a d16y7 civic and has a d16z6 engine...what will he need to be able to do this swap for everything to plug and work? Thank you man
This was a life saver !
Hello! I have a 95 civic hach was automatic transmission I do a kswap don’t crank sorry
Im having issues on my b20v swap in a ek civic. I have fuel and pressure going to the fuel rail and injectors but all my injectors won't prime or open so unfortunately I have no fuel going into the engine to start it up. 96 civic dx, using a 98 civic ex 5spd harness on a chipped p72. Any idea where to start?
I swapped a 95 b18b1 into my 99 civic. I have no fuel and no spark. I have a chipped p28. Any ideas on what I need to look for?
Hey man I just did a swap in my ep3 from a k20 to a k24 and my FI ecu fuse keeps popping and not being able to start the car idk what to do???
Can you guys help me I have a 94 integra with b20b starts up but then turns off. I've changed the fuel pump, fuel filter, spark plugs, main relay, tps, iacv, map, all grounds are good. I even changed the injectors. I am running a p28. Car has been running good for couple months. Was at TMobile one day turned the car off and never turned back on.
Hey i have a question i cant find the answer i have a 2001 honda accord lx 4cl i did a jdm h22a obd1 i convert the harness and and everything the car turns on and run with stock accord computer but i recently i bout a s300 v3 p28 i put a base map on it gsr so i can get it to a tuner but the car wont start with the ecu it wont prime from the pump check engine is on stay solid wile cranking but wont fired cuz is not getting no fuel or spark but i connect the stock accord 4 cl ecu will start right up any ideas!?
Hey bro, I have a question, my Kswap won't start, when I turn my key on, the check engine doesn't turn on at all and no fuel pump, any idea of why?
I had same issue on my civic y8 swap green plug near ecu wasn’t plugged in
The wires on my main relay have been cut and never attached properly... took over a year to figure that out ( it's a Da ) looked like someone wanted to attach a kill switch
I have a gsr head and a bseries block and a single cam ecu it can work my model is Honda Civic 2000 ek
Gonna be swapping a jdm b20 in my 95 integra this Saturday and this will be very helpful thanks man
perfect timing, im doing a b18 swap this wekend
Any idea on why my d16 will not start with the map sensor plugged in but will when i unplug it?
If it's a civic you know its a ground cable 😂
The more you know:D Great video bro
d16y4 swap to b18c2 what wiring harness need i add or i need to take off all the integra harness and put in my car ,, any easy way to wiring the harness
I have a 96 civic hatchback, I did a b20b swap . What ecu should I use ?
I have a 2005 civic lx . Would it start w a vtec swap w out changing the harness or ecu
k24a2 swapped ek. 04 type s harness, kpro ecu. all grounds checked blah blah simple shit checked. car isnt getting spark and when the fuel rail is out and cranking the car nothing is coming out even tho they are clean and flow out of the car. 50 psi fuel pressure and immobilizer and multiplex disabled. what should i be looking for to fix this?
How would I go about splicing in a b16 wire harness from b18 circled connectors
And is a regular single can
Are they on Instagram?
Hey I have an ex 98 civic coupe with an 94 honda prelude h22a jdm ob1 I bought it running it has the stock ecu but they crossed it but I bought new distributer but was listining to some of the ground but is it the same for the h22a
I replaced the clutch and it sat for a winter but was running before I tore it apart lol
Grateful with thanks!
Hi thanks for the info it was really helpful.
Have a 99 civic hatchback did b20 swap on it but has hesitation when i drive it what can it be i did convertion from obd2b to obd1
I have a 99 civic coupe swapped with a b18b block and b16 head car runs perfect with no issue the only problem is that when am going to do a cold start it doesn't start on the first try until I try on the second time it turns on does anyone have any idea??
I had that same issuse and now it has gotten worst so its time to do a tune up and see if that is the issue
i have a 93 civic lx the cel light stays on will this stop the fuel system from coming on ?
I have done a b series swap on my ek ... When i put the battery in , 2 or 3 lights come on without the key in it .. and when I turn the ignition on only the handbrake light and just clicks when I try and start , please help
Ain't got no gas in it. mmhmmm. :)
Edit: Posted this before even starting the video, two minutes in I'm loving it. lmao
Ayeee hsg my manz
I just did my b20 swap on my Acura Integra and it won't start at all. It only starts when I push start.
We need some prelude love on the channel!
tofadeisastart hell yeah! We're a rare breed, but wheres the love?
For real