1 thing that should be added to this ( for users of other radio Tx/Rx protocols) is that the channel order MUST be A,E,T,R,5(on a 3-position switch as said here),6,7(on a 2-position switch) for these RadioLink Byme stabs to work. The re-mapping Etc to get this (and other quirks of various protocols) can cause the stick position combination to initiate the Attitude Calibration to be something quite different from the "Down and Out on both sticks" as shown here. Go through them all before you yell "It doesn't work!" The sticks will probably need the full travel of 1000microsecs to 2000microsecs as well - IE no reduced Rates and Spektrum may need 125% extended limits enabled! Also the Microsecond switching points for these are not known yet (RadioLink has ignored requests for information on this point) and also seem to vary from unit to unit. EG for some units it will prove impossible to have the motor stop at low throttle even if you have your ESC calibrated to your Tx/Rx correctly. You will have to go to your Outputs Page and drop your lower Throttle limit below -100% (on -100/+100 systems.) They do seem to work reasonably well though within their limits and are at a good price point.
@@1nformatica We'll look forward to that. Tried a HE A3Pro (not Mini) in my Volantex G2 Ranger. Set it up with my old mate helping with the button pushing while I was reading the manual. Thought (terrible word!) it was all OK. Took off in Beginner Stabilized - immediately stood up into Hover - frantically toggled switches and crashed straight down onto its nose! Picked up the scattered pieces of the HE, put them in the drawer and added a Kopilot Lite and another serving of hot glue. ;-)
Receiver outputs required for Byme-D (and A) Level Calibration have FINALLY been published by RadioLink. Aileron at 2000usecs, Elevator at 2000usecs, Throttle at 1000usecs, Rudder at 1000usecs. That equates to Left Stick Down and Left, Right Stick Up and Right for a Mode 2 (left throttle) AETR order transmitter like FRSky, Flysky and others.
Thanks for sharing this info. Unfortunately it comes to late for me. Tired of the strange behaviour I have jumped ship and now use the Hobbyeagle A3 Mini which is about the same size and price. Has proved very reliable for me. Thanks for watching, have a great day!
Excellent. The most comprehensive review of the BYME D. For an $1.00 the could have put a potentiometer on to deal with the excessive twitching caused by having too much throws. I put this in the RADJET 800. Launch was great but as soon as I turned back to me it started twitching like crazy, I thought it was going to crash because it was so twitchy. I've got the BYME A in a couple of scratch foamboard builds and it works great.
Hey thanks! I am now using the Hobbyeagle A3 Mini, a much better and predictable 6 axis gyro that can be configured via a PC, check it out here : th-cam.com/video/rPhf0cLP1hw/w-d-xo.html Thanks for watching, have a great day!
Byme D works as advertised. I have not maidened my 64mm F8 Crusader, but the elevon setup works! I have a Futaba T6k and made a new profile for elevon setup. The Byme D would not work at all. It was then I discovered the Futaba has elevon mixing in the pre-programmed model/type choices. I turned off all other mixes and zeroed the outputs for CH1 and CH2. Going one direction at a time, I added values on the controller for CH1 until the desired effects were achieved. I did the same for CH2. It works perfectly. I also have 3 other planes on Byme A, they are great for the price/performance.
For me the lack of gain control and general programmability makes the Byme a non no for any expensive plane. Much better to go with the A3 Mini : th-cam.com/video/rPhf0cLP1hw/w-d-xo.html
You're welcome! For the future I suggest you look at the A3 Mini Gyro th-cam.com/video/rPhf0cLP1hw/w-d-xo.html Comparable size but much more capable unit. Have a great day!!
OK, we now have the Byme-A sorted. Posting this here as well as the forums since it is 1 of the few intelligent active sources on these things. 😜😁. Used the 'Special Functions" feature on the Radiomaster TX16S OpenTX radio to create a different modes set-up that more suits us Old Coots. Put "Stabilized, self-leveling with angle limits", Stabilized, self-leveling with no angle limits", and "Gyro, wind correction only" on a single 3-position switch. Then added an over-ride function on another switch to force the "Hover" mode on and finally a third switch to force the Stab to "Manual." Used a 3-position on the "not up" command for the "Hover" (a 2-position would be better) and a 2-position for the "Manual". (A finger-held momentary 2-position would be best.)
A good setup, thanks for sharing. I have never had an issue with the Byme -A. The only mystery for me is why the Byme - D looks like it doesn't work in stabilised mode 'cause the control surface are all over the place, however it still flies OK.
Very nice tutorial! Something the manufacturer should pick up! On another note; my TX16S tends to 'swamp' the XM+ receiver, causing the signal to drop, which in turn makes the Byme-D similar to what your video shows (extreme throws), I wonder if the same applies to some extend to your set-up.
I have several XM+ receivers I use with my Taranis, they all show the same -problem- feature! You need to either move the Tx away (doh!) or put the Tx in range test mode to reduce the power. Make sure your Rx failsafe is set correctly with CH5 to manual mode and throttle down!
Just for interest's sake you might want to take a gander at today's video on the Byme-D by Ground Control RC, mate! 22/3/2022. Not the same product that we've got it seems! 🤔
I have been waiting for this video after he did the Byme -A. I am surprised he did not see the same issues as us with stabilized mode on the bench. The unit I have is revision 1.0 , maybe there is a newer version but I doubt it. His problem with pitch control was evident from his first test on the bench, you can see much more deflection for aileron than elevator. The Byme -D manual says "The max inclination angle is 70° for rolling while that for pitching is 45°." so I was not surprised by his flight. I find it really annoying he keeps referring to "Safe Mode" which it is not. Also no video of the installation, would be nice to see the location of the Byme -D in relation to the CG.
Cliff well done ... got one of these but the instructions are naff and very little on YT. You would think the makers would make sure a good manual and video was out their for their product but like some other manufactures (frsky) it's up to the public to explain their product. They should give you free gear for life for this video 👍
Hi, so sorry for that inconvenience, we also have TH-cam channel to update video tutorial of our products, here is the home page link: th-cam.com/users/Radiolink_official/featured any question, don't hesitate to contact us, we will do better in the future!
The 'strange behavior' shown in auto level mode only seems to occur if the Byme D is mounted inverted. Perhaps RadioLink is wrong in stating that it can be mounted this way.
Thank you for your tutorials, they have helped reduce my confusion in these matters. I have an Eachine Mobula (un flown) and am waiting for a Byme D to be delivered. My question is at what point do the flight surfaces take up the operating position considering their unusual behavior "on the bench" and I assume not flying while being held. I ask as I always launch my models in stabilised mode as that is the least scary for me. I would think launching a plane with the control surfaces at maximum travel would end in tears. Is this in fact the case? Thanking you in anticipation.
Hi, there is an ongoing mystery here. I and many others all have this problem with "on the bench" testing of this gyro, however you can see in this video : th-cam.com/video/85Gosr5R-xA/w-d-xo.html it works just fine. It will be very interesting to see how your board behaves, please let me know! Personally I launch in "gyro" mode so have skirted the problem. Thanks for watching, have a great day!
@@1nformatica Thank you for your reply, it is reassuring to know I am not the only one to be baffled setting up RC systems. Well, after realising that I was never going to get things to work by having the mixes pre programmed in my radio (Its obvious now, Doh!) I have the Byme D working perfectly with no bench related antics. The unit was bought in the UK and has the date 2021-01-13 on it. I have another on order from China due in June so it will be interesting to see how that performs. After my weary brain recovers I will set up all the other radio functions so that when I find a field with "take off and landing" friendly grass I can try it out. I have quite a collection of the Chinese mini planes which are great fun however, on some of them the gyros also do strange things "on the bench" but perfom flawlessly in the sky. Is this part of some sinister plot to confuse us into submission? Brain now ready for round 2 😁
@@PigParts Hmmm, the plot thickens! My Byme -D is dated 2021-02-26 V1.0 so is newer than yours! Will be very interested to know how your new one performs. Agreed it could be some Chinese plot by Confucius, some gyros don't "engage" until after a throttle up! Good luck with your maiden flight.
My Byme doesn’t seem to accept inputs from the AT10 II, the gyro is fine, and SBUS is connected and powering the RX properly, but still doesn’t accept inputs. Can you think of any reason why?
Hi, my best guess is that the receiver is either not bound to the transmitter or not correctly set to SBUS / PPM mode. This is from the Radiolink manual "PWM signal output mode by default as factory setting. There are two LED indicators on the receiver. RED LED (always on) indicates normal working mode PWM while RED+BLUE LED(always on) indicate SBUS/PPM signal output mode. When the receiver is powered on, the FLASHING RED LED means no signal or binding WITHOUT success. Please bind the receiver to the transmitter." Also I find this unit very useful for testing SBUS bit.ly/SBUS_PPM_PWM_Analyser Thanks for watching, have a great day!
I fooled with this gyro about a year ago and never tried to fly with it because of the control surfaces behavior at the work table. I knew it was something probably related to the accelerometer. Great video man Thanks! Also a quick question for you, did you have to reset your esc because of the throttle channel needing to be reversed?
Hey thanks! It is a useful gyro for smaller models, just as an experiment I have a Byme A in my Bixler 1.4M wingspan and it works well too. I am not sure what you mean by "reset" the ESC. When setting up as a matter of course I calibrate the ESC to the signal coming from the Byme.
@@1nformatica Yes. Recalibrate is the word I was looking for lol. I bought it to put in a experimental 10in ws primejet thinking any wind would make something so tiny hard to fly without stabilization. I'll be revisiting this gyro with some other tiny jet build soon. Thanks again man!
I recommend using this gyro now : th-cam.com/video/rPhf0cLP1hw/w-d-xo.html Can be setup for flying wing or normal and is a much more capable device. You will still need a receiver that outputs SBUS, PPM or a bunck of other serial protocols. Thanks for watching, have a great day!
@@1nformatica Thanks, So if i want to use my Jumper TX i need to have this gyro plus the Sbus/PPM output, in addition to my Lemon DSM compatible receiver, correct?
@@1nformatica So if i have normal (for example Lemon rx DSM compatible) receiver , I need to change it in order to be able to use this A3 Mini, plus i need to buy an output Sbus /PPM? Thanks
@@alexherrera3918 Yes, pretty much all gyros need a serial (PPM, SBUS, etc) signal. My favorite Rx is the Radiolink R8F which you can use if your Jumper Tx has multiprotocol support : s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_9gdZED
@@1nformatica ok. let me see if i finally got it: i have a Lemon receiver, i need to connect the lemon receiver to the R8F and then to the SBUS?PPM in order to be able to use it with my Jumper t12? Thanks
![ถามตรงๆ กับ อาจตุพร ทำไม ประเทศไทย ใครเป็นนายก ก็โดนด่า พอออกเเล้วคนคิดถึง!!?? l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/3YFLMXxBGAs/mqdefault.jpg)
1 thing that should be added to this ( for users of other radio Tx/Rx protocols) is that the channel order MUST be A,E,T,R,5(on a 3-position switch as said here),6,7(on a 2-position switch) for these RadioLink Byme stabs to work. The re-mapping Etc to get this (and other quirks of various protocols) can cause the stick position combination to initiate the Attitude Calibration to be something quite different from the "Down and Out on both sticks" as shown here. Go through them all before you yell "It doesn't work!" The sticks will probably need the full travel of 1000microsecs to 2000microsecs as well - IE no reduced Rates and Spektrum may need 125% extended limits enabled!
Also the Microsecond switching points for these are not known yet (RadioLink has ignored requests for information on this point) and also seem to vary from unit to unit. EG for some units it will prove impossible to have the motor stop at low throttle even if you have your ESC calibrated to your Tx/Rx correctly. You will have to go to your Outputs Page and drop your lower Throttle limit below -100% (on -100/+100 systems.)
They do seem to work reasonably well though within their limits and are at a good price point.
Valuable input my friend! I have pinned the post so others can see it. I'm waiting the arrival of a Hobbyeagle A3 Pro "mini" to test, stay tuned!
@@1nformatica We'll look forward to that. Tried a HE A3Pro (not Mini) in my Volantex G2 Ranger. Set it up with my old mate helping with the button pushing while I was reading the manual. Thought (terrible word!) it was all OK. Took off in Beginner Stabilized - immediately stood up into Hover - frantically toggled switches and crashed straight down onto its nose!
Picked up the scattered pieces of the HE, put them in the drawer and added a Kopilot Lite and another serving of hot glue. ;-)
@@theoztreecrasher2647 The A3 Mini is configured via USB to a PC app, must be simpler, no?!
@@1nformatica Nope! Not to computer illiterates like us Old Farts Junior! :P
Receiver outputs required for Byme-D (and A) Level Calibration have FINALLY been published by RadioLink.
Aileron at 2000usecs, Elevator at 2000usecs, Throttle at 1000usecs, Rudder at 1000usecs.
That equates to Left Stick Down and Left, Right Stick Up and Right for a Mode 2 (left throttle) AETR order transmitter like FRSky, Flysky and others.
Thanks for sharing this info. Unfortunately it comes to late for me. Tired of the strange behaviour I have jumped ship and now use the Hobbyeagle A3 Mini which is about the same size and price. Has proved very reliable for me. Thanks for watching, have a great day!
Excellent. The most comprehensive review of the BYME D. For an $1.00 the could have put a potentiometer on to deal with the excessive twitching caused by having too much throws. I put this in the RADJET 800. Launch was great but as soon as I turned back to me it started twitching like crazy, I thought it was going to crash because it was so twitchy. I've got the BYME A in a couple of scratch foamboard builds and it works great.
Hey thanks! I am now using the Hobbyeagle A3 Mini, a much better and predictable 6 axis gyro that can be configured via a PC, check it out here : th-cam.com/video/rPhf0cLP1hw/w-d-xo.html Thanks for watching, have a great day!
Pretty interesting little flight controller, my friend! 😃
Fantastic video! Thanks a lot!!!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thanks Mario! It is a very small and inexpensive way to control small aircraft, cheaper than glue!! Keep safe!
Thanks for the video. Just got a Byme D Gyro and was looking for help. This really helped.
You're welcome! I have moved on now to a better alternative : th-cam.com/video/rPhf0cLP1hw/w-d-xo.html Have a great day!!
Byme D works as advertised. I have not maidened my 64mm F8 Crusader, but the elevon setup works! I have a Futaba T6k and made a new profile for elevon setup. The Byme D would not work at all. It was then I discovered the Futaba has elevon mixing in the pre-programmed model/type choices. I turned off all other mixes and zeroed the outputs for CH1 and CH2. Going one direction at a time, I added values on the controller for CH1 until the desired effects were achieved. I did the same for CH2. It works perfectly. I also have 3 other planes on Byme A, they are great for the price/performance.
For me the lack of gain control and general programmability makes the Byme a non no for any expensive plane. Much better to go with the A3 Mini : th-cam.com/video/rPhf0cLP1hw/w-d-xo.html
*DEMYSTIFIED* - Very clear and helpful; thank you.
Hey thanks! Bottom line, just go fly it!
THANK YOU, thank you for this very HELPFUL !!! recording. Regards.
You're welcome! For the future I suggest you look at the A3 Mini Gyro th-cam.com/video/rPhf0cLP1hw/w-d-xo.html Comparable size but much more capable unit. Have a great day!!
Thank you so much!
You're welcome!
OK, we now have the Byme-A sorted. Posting this here as well as the forums since it is 1 of the few intelligent active sources on these things. 😜😁.
Used the 'Special Functions" feature on the Radiomaster TX16S OpenTX radio to create a different modes set-up that more suits us Old Coots.
Put "Stabilized, self-leveling with angle limits", Stabilized, self-leveling with no angle limits", and "Gyro, wind correction only" on a single 3-position switch. Then added an over-ride function on another switch to force the "Hover" mode on and finally a third switch to force the Stab to "Manual." Used a 3-position on the "not up" command for the "Hover" (a 2-position would be better) and a 2-position for the "Manual". (A finger-held momentary 2-position would be best.)
A good setup, thanks for sharing. I have never had an issue with the Byme -A. The only mystery for me is why the Byme - D looks like it doesn't work in stabilised mode 'cause the control surface are all over the place, however it still flies OK.
Very nice tutorial! Something the manufacturer should pick up! On another note; my TX16S tends to 'swamp' the XM+ receiver, causing the signal to drop, which in turn makes the Byme-D similar to what your video shows (extreme throws), I wonder if the same applies to some extend to your set-up.
When close to the receiver, should be included...
I have several XM+ receivers I use with my Taranis, they all show the same -problem- feature! You need to either move the Tx away (doh!) or put the Tx in range test mode to reduce the power. Make sure your Rx failsafe is set correctly with CH5 to manual mode and throttle down!
Just for interest's sake you might want to take a gander at today's video on the Byme-D by Ground Control RC, mate! 22/3/2022. Not the same product that we've got it seems! 🤔
I have been waiting for this video after he did the Byme -A. I am surprised he did not see the same issues as us with stabilized mode on the bench. The unit I have is revision 1.0 , maybe there is a newer version but I doubt it. His problem with pitch control was evident from his first test on the bench, you can see much more deflection for aileron than elevator. The Byme -D manual says "The max inclination angle is 70° for rolling while that for pitching is 45°." so I was not surprised by his flight. I find it really annoying he keeps referring to "Safe Mode" which it is not. Also no video of the installation, would be nice to see the location of the Byme -D in relation to the CG.
Cliff well done ... got one of these but the instructions are naff and very little on YT. You would think the makers would make sure a good manual and video was out their for their product but like some other manufactures (frsky) it's up to the public to explain their product. They should give you free gear for life for this video 👍
Hey thanks! It really is a neat little device. Hopefully I have given you the information needed to make it a success!
Hi, so sorry for that inconvenience, we also have TH-cam channel to update video tutorial of our products, here is the home page link: th-cam.com/users/Radiolink_official/featured any question, don't hesitate to contact us, we will do better in the future!
@@Radiolink_official Great! Thanks for sharing.
The 'strange behavior' shown in auto level mode only seems to occur if the Byme D is mounted inverted. Perhaps RadioLink is wrong in stating that it can be mounted this way.
Interesting! Thanks for sharing. I've moved on now to a much more capable but similar size gyro : th-cam.com/video/rPhf0cLP1hw/w-d-xo.html
Thank you for your tutorials, they have helped reduce my confusion in these matters. I have an Eachine Mobula (un flown) and am waiting for a Byme D to be delivered. My question is at what point do the flight surfaces take up the operating position considering their unusual behavior "on the bench" and I assume not flying while being held. I ask as I always launch my models in stabilised mode as that is the least scary for me. I would think launching a plane with the control surfaces at maximum travel would end in tears. Is this in fact the case? Thanking you in anticipation.
Hi, there is an ongoing mystery here. I and many others all have this problem with "on the bench" testing of this gyro, however you can see in this video : th-cam.com/video/85Gosr5R-xA/w-d-xo.html it works just fine. It will be very interesting to see how your board behaves, please let me know! Personally I launch in "gyro" mode so have skirted the problem. Thanks for watching, have a great day!
@@1nformatica Thank you for your reply, it is reassuring to know I am not the only one to be baffled setting up RC systems. Well, after realising that I was never going to get things to work by having the mixes pre programmed in my radio (Its obvious now, Doh!) I have the Byme D working perfectly with no bench related antics. The unit was bought in the UK and has the date 2021-01-13 on it. I have another on order from China due in June so it will be interesting to see how that performs. After my weary brain recovers I will set up all the other radio functions so that when I find a field with "take off and landing" friendly grass I can try it out. I have quite a collection of the Chinese mini planes which are great fun however, on some of them the gyros also do strange things "on the bench" but perfom flawlessly in the sky. Is this part of some sinister plot to confuse us into submission? Brain now ready for round 2 😁
@@PigParts Hmmm, the plot thickens! My Byme -D is dated 2021-02-26 V1.0 so is newer than yours! Will be very interested to know how your new one performs. Agreed it could be some Chinese plot by Confucius, some gyros don't "engage" until after a throttle up! Good luck with your maiden flight.
My Byme doesn’t seem to accept inputs from the AT10 II, the gyro is fine, and SBUS is connected and powering the RX properly, but still doesn’t accept inputs. Can you think of any reason why?
Hi, my best guess is that the receiver is either not bound to the transmitter or not correctly set to SBUS / PPM mode. This is from the Radiolink manual "PWM signal output mode by default as factory setting. There are two LED indicators on the receiver. RED LED (always on) indicates normal working mode PWM while RED+BLUE LED(always on) indicate SBUS/PPM signal output mode. When the receiver is powered on, the FLASHING RED LED means no signal or binding WITHOUT success. Please bind the receiver to the transmitter." Also I find this unit very useful for testing SBUS bit.ly/SBUS_PPM_PWM_Analyser Thanks for watching, have a great day!
I fooled with this gyro about a year ago and never tried to fly with it because of the control surfaces behavior at the work table. I knew it was something probably related to the accelerometer. Great video man Thanks!
Also a quick question for you, did you have to reset your esc because of the throttle channel needing to be reversed?
Hey thanks! It is a useful gyro for smaller models, just as an experiment I have a Byme A in my Bixler 1.4M wingspan and it works well too. I am not sure what you mean by "reset" the ESC. When setting up as a matter of course I calibrate the ESC to the signal coming from the Byme.
@@1nformatica Yes. Recalibrate is the word I was looking for lol. I bought it to put in a experimental 10in ws primejet thinking any wind would make something so tiny hard to fly without stabilization. I'll be revisiting this gyro with some other tiny jet build soon. Thanks again man!
@@kyleweber6969 Good luck with your project, if you have any questions let me know.
Do i need also a Sbus PPM if i have a jumper t12(open tx) for a regular airplane ( no wing)?
I recommend using this gyro now : th-cam.com/video/rPhf0cLP1hw/w-d-xo.html Can be setup for flying wing or normal and is a much more capable device. You will still need a receiver that outputs SBUS, PPM or a bunck of other serial protocols. Thanks for watching, have a great day!
@@1nformatica Thanks, So if i want to use my Jumper TX i need to have this gyro plus the Sbus/PPM output, in addition to my Lemon DSM compatible receiver, correct?
@@1nformatica So if i have normal (for example Lemon rx DSM compatible) receiver , I need to change it in order to be able to use this A3 Mini, plus i need to buy an output Sbus /PPM? Thanks
@@alexherrera3918 Yes, pretty much all gyros need a serial (PPM, SBUS, etc) signal. My favorite Rx is the Radiolink R8F which you can use if your Jumper Tx has multiprotocol support : s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_9gdZED
@@1nformatica ok. let me see if i finally got it: i have a Lemon receiver, i need to connect the lemon receiver to the R8F and then to the SBUS?PPM in order to be able to use it with my Jumper t12? Thanks