4 Epic Minutes - GW Paint in Dropper Bottles
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ส.ค. 2024
- Tired of your Games Workshop paint drying out, thickening up, taking up too much space or just being messy? Transfer it to a dropper bottle!
Here's the Dropper Bottles I used: www.amazon.com/...
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The absolute best thing a hobbyist can do to make their life easier. It gives you pre-thinned paint, easier to dispense, easier to store. Just a massive improvement to the painting experience. Great vid.
I only wish G-Dubs would take the hint and sell their paint in dropper bottles. They even came out with a line of airbrush paints ... in the same flip top paint pots. #facepalm
@@Algebrodadio they clearly want your paint to dry out so you buy more. its a strategy.
I did this to 90 GW paints and it took me 2 days. I only lost a little but I have since changed to Vallejo as my primary paint. It was a real pain in the ass and I only used purified water. Once I got more out I dropped a glass bead in the pot, added so purified water and gave it a shake. Then I pored out the remainder in the pot...Never again, GW just needs to change.
This hobby hack is not to be underestimated. I just tried it from a package of three bottles and the results are incredible. Entirely recommend to anyone using Citadel paints.
I had troubles finding a simple eye-dropper where I am located. If someone else had that problem just put the flow-aid in a dropper bottle. I know it is obvious, but maybe it helps someone. :)
And of course Thanks for this video. Great!
No Amazon?
Use a stainless steel funnel for filling flasks - they have a 3/8" insertion diameter for a perfect fit and cost a buck each, or less. Easy to clean and saves mess and time!
That background music is absolutely on spot, so soothing/relaxing.
Thanks for the chill music, and not blaring metal, it's a lot easier on the ears and to hear you. Nice video.
Hmmm... Needs a metal soundtrack... After all painting is metal. 🤘
I did this with all of my GW paints (minus the contrast/washes). The only thing I did differently was to use small funnels. I was also trying to figure out how to get more of the paint transferred so I bought makeup bottle scrappers. I got 95% of the paint out this way with less thinning. Worth the effort IMO.
This was so easy! Thank you so much!
Great technique! Used it on all of my 58 older GW paint bottles because I still wanted to get some use out of them ( nowadays it's all Vallejo or Scale 75 for me ).
One note though: to all of you who are interested in doing this, avoid making a mess of things using a small funnel when transferring... Keeps your hobby space somewhat cleaner!
Great vid! I don't know how easy it is in the rest of the world, but my FLGS stocks empty Vallejo bottles for stuff like this. Means if you have a paint storage system that only has 1 size of holder, you're guaranteed that the droppers will fit perfectly with existing Vallejo paints. Plus you don't have to worry about overfilling the new bottle as much as they are 17ml.
I did this a couple of years ago during Christmas holidays. I used small metal funnels, 10 paints at a time with vallejo thinner and 15ml bottles. Took labels off the pots
Washed the funnels out, dried them ready for use the next day. I think i decanted 80-85 pots to bottles.
Definetly worth it though. Those pots are manky.
I really enjoy thinning down my paint on the palette, but if it's good... then I shall try.
Really loved the video, thanks for taking the time to make this. Have been using GW paints for a decade and hate how much wastage there is. Despite the cost of the dropper bottles and the flow-aid, I still reckon you end up far in advance than just rebuying GW paints over and over every time they dry up. Thanks again for this, this is great!
Thanks for the great, easy to understand video buddy!
Thank you so much! I just started painting, and while I love the coverage and color of the Citadel paints, I hate the pots. Now to go get some empty bottles...
Just wanna add to the this a little. This is very worth your time and not very hard at all to do. The only paints you might get a little trouble with are the metallics.
That said is this doable with the technical paints as well?
I really don't think it's the best idea to be recommending the use of Flo-Aid in this way. Liquitex Flow Aid is meant to be diluted someting like 10-1 in water, and even then it compromises the adhehion of the paint. I use a 10-1 solution to strip the dried- caked up paint out of used paint pots for example. Why would you not just use water?
I've been using flow aid like this for the better part of a decade and have had zero adhesion problems from doing so. I mean, some of the paints become more translucent as a result, but that's a desirable outcome depending on usage.
There's nothing wrong with diluting it either, and sure, the bottle says to use it diluted, but we don't always use things as directed to get results - I mean when you make an ink wash using floor polish, the label instructions don't even apply 😉
Long story short, this is what I've found works for me. Your experience may vary.
Insofar as using straight water, I've experienced more pigment separation that way than by using Flow Aid. This probably varies a lot depending on paint brand, age, colour, etc, but it was annoying enough that I stopped doing it. I'll dilute with plain water on a wet palette, but not in the bottle.
Worth noting, my intent here isn't -really- to dilute the paint, but simply to rescue as much from the pot as I can. Flow aid is more like the acrylic base of the paint than water is.
This was my question too, will it work as well if diluted?
I suggest adding a BB as an agitator to help when you shake your paints.
You really need stainless steel. BB will rust causing issues with the paint. I get stainless steel nuts from Ace hardware. Suze 6- 32, they fit the dropper bottle neck just right.
To answer the metallic paint question the only ones i found that kept the consistency was ledbelcher and balthasar gold. Just use a few drops. The rest am unsure of.
Leadbelcher and Ironbreaker transferred well, and the darker golds/coppers (Balthasar, Runelord, etc) seem to be ok. Gehenna's Gold didn't fare so well. These days I use my metallics straight from the pot most of the time, mostly so I didn't need to thin them at all.
@@Epicduck question do we need to shake them to keep them wet like when they were in the pots or are they alright
@@thelunchlord4530 It's always a good idea to shake paint before you use it in case there's been any settling.
@@Epicduck dose the paint dry up in the bottles
@@thelunchlord4530 Not in my experience, but that'll mostly depend on how airtight your bottles are.
Thank you for the video! I'll definitely be doing these to my GW paints going forward.
With the new little bottles, sure. I have old citadel paints, white, a flesh wash and a blue bottle (ultramarine blue) with near of 25 years old! I dont use citadel, because on me country are very expensive. And the stores are very far from me house. Now I use Vallejo for me primary paint, sometimes some paints for Andrea Miniatures (they are really matt paints like citadel paints or Josonja acrilics gouache) Years ago, Vallejo are only a fine arts paint, or acrylics for figures, miniatures, military historic, etc.. no for models, like cars, trains...They had a terrible resistance after painting and a poor adherence! But, now with the primers and the new line paints, like air model or game color... is another world of possibilities. The other brands just want to copy and get on the train. But you can find a lot of acrylics paint brands, years ago I find a acrylics gouache, called Americana (from Decoart), the bottle are huge, a more cheap than Vallejo paints. A little dense, but good for start with some basic colours.
Vallejo definitely makes good paint, they're just really hard to find here in Canada. I grab them when I can, but I can pass 6 stores that sell Citadel before I find out that sells Vallejo ;)
@@Epicduck Maybe you can find some good hobby stores with vallejo colours, from Usa or Canada stores, If you buy several bottles, the shipping costs are still profitable. www.sunwardhobbies.ca/vallejo-paints-and-supplies/ (is no spam :P) For example, 6 years ago, I lived a time in Ireland (Dublin) in front of a modelstore (trains) they only sell Humbrol, Tamiya (enamel o acrylic) o some oldie Revell paints. And on the Warhammer store, they of course only sell citadel paints. :) But the gw employed painted with some Vallejo Model Color paints.(yes big wtf!) and I asked him what where he had acquired them? He replied that by web request to a hobby store in Scotland XD. But they calling now Princeaugust, no Vallejo. This is because in France, is calling this way. I think you can find now Vallejo Model Color in any hobbystore or online store.
The only issue I have with their paints (as far as storage goes, as I think literally everyone has an issue with their prices, lol), is the space taken up. I've actually taken to using small ziploc-style bags over the pots, to keep them from drying out and it works extremely well, but both with and without the bags, they're rather bulky. Dropper bottles helps to make things much more streamlined. I'm still going to do the transfer, but until I can order the dropper bottles, I'll keep the bags over their heads, lmao. I do that for P3 as well, though Idk if they have an issue with drying out. Btw, great video, it's the best one I've seen yet, for this specific subject. #subbed
I did the same thing with my gw paints as well but I made a cone to poor it into the dropper bottle with. I posted a video of it as well.
gotta get me some of that flow aid, I tried this today based on a different guide (using the same dropper bottles, stainless steel agitator beads and a plastic funnel). Listened to two Warhammer audiobooks (1 hour each!!) and got 2 colours done, Mephiston red and Calgar blue. 4 mins each would be much better....
The great thing about adding flow improver as well is that your paints are pre-thinned. Use a wet palette and a damp brush too, and you basically don't have to thin anything when you're painting (unless you're doing glazes and such, obviously!)
Be a little wary with thinning GW metals though, they don't seem to work great afterwards. They're one of few paints I just leave in a pot now. Leadbelcher and Ironbreaker transferred fine, but the golds are too translucent now :)
@@Epicduck I since switched to using Vallejo thinner medium and clipping the lids off as in the vid. Went from 1 hour each pot to maybe 5 mins. Added 10 drops of medium at first, then 5 later and works well. Strangely though my 15mL pots come out nowhere near as full as yours in the video, maybe the flowaid is just that much more effective at getting more out
better scrape that citadel bottle out with a sculpting tool too, shit aint cheap
Good tip, I'll check Amazon for those much need 15 ml dropper bottles, I have a fondness for mixing up my own custom colors. Nice music too, reminds me of the music from that game that features chesty, hot angel chicks fighting!
great tips, thanks for making this video.
love it! I Chuck a small bead in mine to mix them up with too.
Yeah I need to grab some glass beads for that - I was going to add ball bearings but I worry they'd eventually rust and discolour the paint.
i used nail polish shaker beads.
Stainless steel beads are better, no rust issues. The added weight over glass is better to mix pigment in my opinion.
While I do like some of GW's paints, I tend to avoid them for the reason that they come in pots instead of droppers. Due to this I tend more towards Vallejo's AIR range as I acquire new paint. Vallejo's AIR range paints are already fairly thin with good pigmentation, so little to no further thinning necessary. Also, I can drop it straight into my airbrush or onto a palette for brush work. Double duty with little fuss.
If GW switched from their iconic pots into a dropper I'd probably be more inclined to buy their product, as it tends to be slightly better in coverage and smoothness. This, though, is not enough for me to purchase their paints with the exception of their washes. I have not yet found a superior wash medium. GW paints are great product, but the delivery method is lacking in it's ease of use.
As to your method of transferral, It does mediate this situation, but their is quite a bit of material lost in the transfer. I'd guess somewhere in the range of 5-10% by the looks of it. While this may not seem like much I still find it bothersome. While dropper bottles still have a portion of paint loss due to media retention inside of the bottle, I have also found that I can extend that residual paint by adding an additional amount of hot water [plus a vigorous shaking] to make a glaze/wash. Once the hot water has cooled it is good to go.
All together an excellent tip, but I wish GW could be a little less stubborn on some of their marketing techniques. Either that, or phase out their paint pot factory and phase in droppers.
In truth, I use Vallejo paints more than anything else lately, but I find I come back to GW's product lines for glazes and metallics regularly. Occasionally I'll also -have- to use a GW paint so I can guarantee a match to a customer's existing colour scheme when I'm doing a commission. Frankly though, their Base paints are hard to beat for coverage - and in commission painting, time is money. If I can get a basecoat down in 2 coats instead of 3 or 4, it's worthwhile.
As far as the paint left behind in the pot - I usually do this sort of transfer at the same time I need the paint for a batch job, and use what's left in the pot to get the job started :) Doesn't -always- work out that way, but it minimizes that loss when I can manage it.
For metallics check out the Vallejo metal color. Best metallics I've ever used. Pure wicked sorceries went into making that stuff. Goes on like the liquid gold range but without all the alcohol hassle.
Whenever a local store actually stocks them, I plan to :) Finding Vallejo around here is nearly impossible, and I've had bad luck ordering it from online retailers (almost always separated pigments, etc)
Jon Kreher yeah I primarily use Vallejo metallics, but for some tutorials I like to stick to GW paints because they're the easiest for most people to get. I've had bad experiences buying Vallejo paint online and I can't get it locally, so I only get to stock up on it occasionally.
So, the paint is great but you are too lazy to put the paint into a dropper bottle, so, you are going to shoot yourself in the foot and never use their paints, instead? People are strange.
Good but I wouldn't use flow aid this can really change the feel of the paint and can make it harder to work with. Just a tiny bit of water and then keep the pots whilst you use the rest of the paint (little bit in the bottom and sides) that you can't get out by pouring.
If I'm onset my gw paints have never dried out fully yes the sides have dried and the cap doesn't fit on probley so I'm gonna do this tommrow thanks :)
so does the flow air change the consistency of the paint application to models? should I still thin them or use a wet pallet? I hate the GW pots, love the paints, but I don't want to compromise the integrity of the paint itself just to put it into a new bottle.
Holy crap, this is exactly what I was looking for. I like painting with the few Citadel paints I have, but I absolutely hate the pots. The pots alone stop me from buying them, except for a couple specific colors. I use Vallejo, and I've never had an issue ordering them online, and one of my local stores sells a very select few of them, most of them I don't use, but still, they have a couple. However, being able to use specific color mixtures put out by GW and from the community in general would be nice.
Does this make any of the paints too thin when using them later, or usually just the right consistency for how one is *supposed* to use them?
As a fluidifiant, you may use window cleaner liquid. And, well, for the transfer, have you tried a funnel?
If I use a funnel, I'm just losing some paint to the funnel because some will end up coating it (unless you have a teflon-coated funnel or something?). Pouring directly from bottle to bottle is easy enough.
Window Cleaner often contains ammonia and can cause corrosion to the brass parts of airbrushes - it's great if you only plan on doing brushwork, but I'd avoid it if you expect to ever use your paint in an airbrush :)
would this work for metallic paints as well? just thinking the paint might separate really easily if you put flow-aid
For metallics, I use vellejo airbrush thinner. Even when thinning them on my pallet, water is a no-go for those paints, so I'd assume flow aid would work just the same as regular thinner, but obviously, since I don't know for sure, could just give it a shot
Does GW cotrast paint and washes also benefit from this?
Why flow improver and not thinner?
With the creation of the new top, do you still believe this is the best technique?
Really good Tutorial :)) Tested it and it went as u said
I think I would also throw a stainless steel ball in there so you can shake it. Like a BB or something.
BBS rust
Does this have any lasting negative effects on the paint?
This works well for Formula P3 paint as well.
Definitely, I just have a lot less of those ;) I've also used it to make droppers of P3 pre-thinned for airbrushing by mixing them with Tamiya X-20A.... may do a video on that soon.
Its freed up ton of space know i just need to make a wet palette.
My experience with Liquitex Flo-Aid is that adding it straight to paints will cause them to adhere poorly and run all over the place, also it has no acrylic binder in it so it can cause the pigments to drop out of suspension like when you over-thin with water. It says on the bottle to dilute it 20:1 with water, I go 10:1 and it works well as an additive. Did you encounter any problems with the paint after adding so much raw Flo-Aid?
Not as yet. I've been using it for years and haven't had any issues with using it straight. A few paints are less opaque than they used to be but that just plays into my painting style better most of the time.
I bought 20ml bottles instead of 15, do you think the size difference will really matter?
Would this not make the paint too runny and inconsistent?
Is flow improver breaking the surface tension so I end up with properties from a wash?
2 questions: does the flow ease effect the paint in anyway or just makes even easier to paint with? And ive seen people add agitator beads to dropper bottles. Does that help? Just getting into this and want to do it right the first time!
The flow aid does thin the paint somewhat, which just saves me time later ;) I haven't added agitators to any paint I've done this with yet - no reason you couldn't, but I haven't had the need to yet.
thanks
Will this thin the paint so much that I can't use for dry brushing? I like being able thin my paint for the job at hand.. but I hate the pots..
The question is.... how do you get your labels to stay straight around the whole bottle i can never get mine to line up.
The GW labels have a slight taper to them so they never end up perfectly straight on the back of the bottle. I just aim for "good enough".
do i really need the flow improver ? i mean do i have issues when ill transfer it into the dropper bottle without it, so i cant get the paint out of the dropper bottle anymore ?
This may be a stupid question, but how does the dilution affect when you use the paint? Normally, when painting with Citadel paints, I end up diluting with water. Do you end up not having to do that at all, using less water, or still end up using the same?
celicynd I use most these straight from the droppers without any extra diluting. I do use a wet palette though so they naturally pick up some water.
In hindsight, I don't really recommend this for GW metals by the way, they become *too* thin to work as expected. I also overdid the thinning on my Abaddon Black... There's a little trial and error involved. The reds work fantastic though!
Hi i know i keep asking question but i just want to ask you one more thing. You said that gold paint doesn't work well with this method could you elaborate. Cause i used this method on paint like balthasar gold and it works fine.
Did you dilute the flow aid or use it straight?
I personally used it straight, though the directions on the bottle say otherwise. Others have diluted it though!
I'm basically always adding water to my paint via a wet palette and a damp brush, so I wasn't too worried about adding it to the paint/flow-aid mix.
Can you use regular paint-thinner?
Just curious, can I use water instead of a flow improver? I'm asking because I don't have access to any of those
Could u turn the left over paint in the gw pots into a wash?
I over thinned my paint what should I do
could you use ump acrylic thinner instead or not?
Hi mate. What prodoct do u use to thin the metalic colors? I try flow aid, perfect for non metalic colors but get a weird effect with metalic ones. What do u sudgest? some liquitex medium? airbrush one? or iridescent one maybe?
piccololord1989 I've honestly just used flowaid so far, and it's worked for me. Can't really recommend an alternate because I haven't tried one personally. Sorry!
what would be the reason to use flow aid over water?I've been mixing my paints on a pallet with water, could I just add that to the bottle?
I believe the reason to not use water as a thinning agent in the bottles/pots is due to mold and other long-term storage issues. When we thin with water the paint is usually going to be applied shortly if not immediately thereafter. When the paint is in the bottle/pot it's likely going to stay there for a while longer. Mold can grow and other weird stuff may happen.
Water is fine to use but I would suggest filtered water.
Great tip!
Are dropper bottles really so much better? I'm about to buy some vallego basic paint kit, 40 dropper bottle paints for $120 AUD. Is it worth it?
It's honestly just personal preference.
Hey Mike, do you apply the liquitex to metals too? Or do you use different methods for it?
CremationTV I've tried it with the metallics. It works very well with leadbelcher and ironbreaker, but the gold tones seem to suffer. Bronzes are hit and miss with it. I've since just been using the golds from the pot for the little I need.
Thanks a bunch Mike!
Hey there, thanks for the tutorial! Do you recommend doing this with metal paints? Or do they get too thinned down? Thanks :3
Is it possible for someone to make the transfer into dropper bottles without posting about it on the internet?
Is it common for your paints to be watery, from the flow aid, after your transferred from pot to dropper bottle?
no, you poured too much flow aid into the paint
Are flow aid and flow medium the same thing? I bought flow medium because that's all I could find. It looks different to yours. Flow medium looks white and flow aid looks clear.
They look a bit different but serve the same function. Really for this, any unpigmented acrylic fluid is suitable, you could use Future Floor Polish in a pinch. You just want something that's chemically similar to the paint to thin it down a bit and make it easier to decant.
Great job thank you for sharing. Once in the dropper how long does the GW paint last? Does it ever dry out?
Not sure yet! I've had many of mine transferred for over a year now and they're still going strong. I suspect they'd be fine almost indefinitely (I have some Reaper dropper bottles about a decade old now) unless you have a faulty seal on a bottle.
Love the video. One Question:
Is Liquitex Pouring Medium the same as (or the new name for) Liquitex Flow Aid, do they still make Liquitex Flow Aid?
I can't find Liquitex Flow Aid. (I'm in the UK and mainly looking on amazon).
The Liquitex page about Flow Aid:
www.liquitex.com/row/products/professional/gessoes-mediums-varnishes/flow-aid-additive/
Now says its called an Additive.
Thanks for this. I have a question can you do this with the Citadel Dry paints?
I've never tried them so I'm not sure. I suspect adding a thinner would change how they work too much though.
Thanks for the info.
For dry pigments old tamiya pots with screw on lids are good.
You can make your own pigments with coloured artist pastels.
I saw that on the PlasmoTV modelmaking channel.
Every owner of P3 paints should do the same.
Will the flow aid naturally thin you paint right out of the pot? Will water/lahmium medium still be necessary to thin the paints before painting?
Flow Aid does pre-thin the paint. Whether you'll still want to add water or lahmium medium mostly depends how much pre-thinning you do, and what you're trying to accomplish. You'll certainly need less, at least :)
@@Epicduck thanks! Please do some wiz kids or deep cuts dnd minis soon! Love the content
@@sagarpatel6625 if I can ever get my hands on that elusive DND beholder...
Any chance you save the empty pots, I could reuse them for other projects.
I put some of them to use, as terrain or makeshift miniature holders, etc
would you say the amount of thinner you add is enough so you can use the paint straight away when you want to paint, or would you want to still use a bit of thinner when you go and paint afterwards?
So far they've all been pre-thinned enough with this method - some even maybe a little too thin, but I definitely prefer that over chunky :)
+Epic Duck Studios alright thanks. I'm new to the hobby, but I have already found that these citadel pots (although I love the paints) aren't very handy and was thinking about putting them in dropper bottles as well.
As a beginner though, I don't fully understand or grasp the optimal thinner/paint ratio, but I guess i'll give this a try.
The "optimal ratio" is really personal preference anyway. If you want to paint faster in fewer layers, less thinning is better. If you want to get incredibly smooth transitions between colours, more thinning may be better. It's something that really just comes with experience, unfortunately!
does thinning the paint effect the color?
It affects the translucency, but not the actual colour. When you thin you get less pigment, but it doesn't change the pigment itself.
I'm in the process of trying to transfer my paint across to dropper bottles. I have found this video very helpful but I do have a couple questions. I don't have a flow aid will water work? Also I paint a lot of reaper miniatures and they are notorious for not taking on water based paints, do you have any experience with this? Thanks
Charlie Franklin you can probably thin with water without issue, you might just need to shake the paint up a little more often. I've never had an issue painting Reaper Minis - and I've painted a lot of them. Just wash them in warm soapy water, and prime them first. If you're putting paint directly on the miniature instead of priming it, you're asking for trouble anyway ;)
If gw just switched over to dropper bottles i would add more gw paints to my slowly dried collection
The only thing i would reccommend is that the bootles have to be a better quality ones than a chinese cheap bottles. Otherwise the eyedropper lid can fell off when pouring out paint causing you to lost a decent ammount of paint and a huge mess.
Honestly haven't had that happen yet
Can this technique be used on the metallic paints or should it be done differently?
Robert Aftanas I've used it on metallics, and it's a bit more hit and miss. Some worked out great, some are too thin now. If I were to do them again I'd just thin them less and accept some loss in the transfer.
Epic Duck Studios I will give it ago and see what happens. Have you thought of a paint shaker video?
I think the colour becomes a bit too diluted... but maybe is just my mistake.
Doesn't adding flowaid affect the paints thickness?
Yeah, it does thin the paint... But I usually thin GW paint when I use it anyhow, so this also saves me time because it's now pre-thinned.
Hmmm, true enough.
Could water work?
More than likely, though you may have to shake the paint more often as it might not mix quite as well.
Also, does this method work for citadel dry paints too?
Nope. Adding a flow improver to a dry paint ruins the dry part :P
To be fair, it *might* work. I haven't tried it, because I assumed it would just waste $5 of paint. And I don't think the dry paints would squirt out well even if they did transfer.
Epic Duck Studios Good point. Just trying to figure out which is OK to do this with and which isnt.
I found it worked best with the Base and Layer paints, but not the metallic ones. I also transferred most of my washes and glazes, but I've gone back to using Nuln Oil and Agrax from the pot as I'm often loading my brush with them. The other washes (Drakenhoff, Carroburg, etc) I use more precisely so they're in droppers.
Epic Duck Studios Do the glazes and washes require it too? Or are they already thin enough? Im asking more for the washes than the glazes
magic =)
i would add an agitator bead, but otherwise great video
I like citadel paint but this seems like a LOT of work to use paint that isn’t light years different from Vallejo or pretty much any other hobby brand... that already come in dropper bottles.
It's not a lot of work - maybe a minute or two per paint. I sometimes need to match a client's existing colours exactly so using Vallejo isn't always an option - and I don't have a local place to buy Vallejo paint either. I've had bad experiences ordering Vallejo online, especially in the winter.
Or you could just buy Vallejo paints...
Butt Ass yup, not everyone has access to them though. Only paint I can but locally is GW, need to travel at least an hour to get anything else... And a few made experiences have taught me not to buy Vallejo paint online.
I refuse to believe that anybody who can blow money on this hobby can't go on amazon and buy game color. Maybe the wargaming kids in New Delhi are stuck with Citadel paint but you are definitely not.
Butt Ass less "can't" than "won't". Anytime I've bought Vallejo paint online it's been defective - highly separated, or dried out. I was told by a hobby store owner he won't even resupply it if it's cold out because it breaks down if it hits
Butt Ass meanwhile, I've got 6 options to buy GW paint that are all closer than the nearest store that sells Vallejo.
Epic Duck Studios Has anyone try this with a nicer glass + dropper. I found some I like but I want to now if this way will wast paint. Cause I want to reuses the bottle more then once for the same color of paint Please answer
i never used droper-bottels. Why is it preferable?
It's ultimately personal preference. I find it easier to mix colours consistently when you can measure out drops instead of dipping a brush, and it tends not to dry out as fast. If you airbrush it's helpful for dispensing too. Also I'm clumsy and have wasted a lot of paint knocking over pots - droppers don't spill as easily ☺️
ok, thx mate. can u just use the GW paints in an air brush? i thoght you needed special colors for that. Or can you just fin them down?
Pretty much any paint can run through an airbrush as long as you thin it down and have enough air pressure. Some cheaper paints (like paint from a dollar store) might have pigment particles that are too big to airbrush with, but anything designed for miniatures already has small particles or liquid pigment ☺️
1 last questen now that i have u on the line: do u have a vid about airbrushing on your channel?
Not yet! Sometime soon. I'm still fairly new with airbrushing myself, mostly use it for basecoating right now.
Sorry, but why break the lid?? It just pulls off...
Because there's still drops of thinned down paint on it, and when you forcefully pull it, you're more likely to send those paint droplets flying all over.
I'm the only one that never had problems with pots?
I prefer 'em to dropper bottles, that tends to make a circle of paint around the mouth of bottle, no matter how delicate you are.
I don't -hate- pots, but I do find the paint doesn't last as long in them as it does in droppers. It's all personal preference though, I know of at least one guy who transfers his vallejo paint to pots, so you're not alone ;)
So the question really is, why doesn't GW make use of these bottles and keep these less than ideal ones? This is a good way of creating extra plastic waste sadly, but very useful in painting use though.
The GW pots dry out quicker, so you have to buy replacements sooner. I wish this was an over-cynical conspiracy theory, but it's not.
flow aid = expensive water
I dont know why GW just doesn't do this. The paint pots suck