Thanks for doing this. I know so many people who still use GW paint pots and complain about how arduous this process is. I did this with contrast, and it is soooo easy. Don't even need the pipette because they flow so easy. And--TIP--if you have more spare small dropper bottles and need a funnel, just cut one of those bottles in half, insert the dropper nib, then turn it upside down and you've got a funnel for another dropper bottle.
Another method which I highly recommend, a luer lock syringe with a thin blunt dispensing tip, you can get through a pot of paint in a matter of seconds with minimal lost paint (If you want to get super pedantic about it, you can use a silicon sculpting tool to scrape down the sides too). A couple of pulls of water into the syringe and it flushes it out and you're good to go for another paint. I'm working on some TH-cam videos with short tips etc and the syringe method was the first thing I filmed :)
I hadn't seen this response when I posted mine. I used the method in this video until I came across the syringe solution. I solidly recommend it for anyone who is willing to commit a small amount of funds to the task!
does this work without putting things into the paint? I don't like the idea of adding things like air brush thinner, as I do a lot of dry brushing work, and I'm worried I'll ruin my paint for this purpose. I use a set that I paid around 80 pounds for. and I don't want to have to go and buy paints again to dry brush with. I have a feeling the flow improver will completely ruin paints for dry brushing. You should have moisture on the brush, but the paint should be dry, this is how you control the different techniques. The moisture on the brush hydrates the paint the right amount, and with additives in the paint to make it glide I feel you can no longer dry brush with it. I think if anything, I will use very small amounts of distilled water, as at least this will evaporate over time, and can be drawn out of the paint while prepping for dry brushing. I don't think you can draw air brush thinner out in a traditional way.
@@D00M3R-SK8 For dry brushing, you don’t really need the paint to be thick and “dry” if done correctly. You can dry brush perfectly fine with thinned down paint, so I wouldn’t worry about thinning the paint down a bit.
I felt ripped off my first forray into this hobby as I ordered a 13 paint citadel kit that was on sale from 65 to 40$, as i sat waiting for the shipping I thought I got this awesome deal. Then the paint arrived and I realized how dam tiny citadel pots were and instantly felt like a moron. Even at 35-40% the normal msrp, its a dam rip off.
@@TheDigitalThreat Same here RE: size surprise for GW. I used AP for my first couple projects because it was the cheapest. Then I found MWG’s awesome recipe videos (which use GW exclusively) and ordered some GW paints. When they arrived my first thought was, “Wow. These pots look so much bigger on camera.” 😂
I just wanted to report that, now that I've spent quite a few hours transfering and thinning my old old GW paints, they are now readily usable and this means it has brought joy to me to be able to paint with them more confidently and "out of the dropper bottle". I can't phrase this properly: I was trying to find alternatives because of the pot and the thickness, and now I'm just painting with them again. THANKS, Vince.
I really like doing this. I recommend using a small funnel (like one for mixing meds) instead. I also prethinned for airbrusing the colors I knew I was going to use throuh it. Overall recommended
im just using a tiny funnel. funnel in the dropper, citadel pot in the funnel and just let gravity do the work. it takes some time but you dont make a mess and got hardly any leftovers
@@cintfaceful They have some colors I enjoy using, but for the most part I already left. Been all about Pro Acryl by Monument Games for a while now. Excellent paint.
Just picked up my first Citadel base paint (Bugman's Glow) from my LFGS yesterday... your timing is perfect! Been painting with all Vallejo paints and will say that I much prefer dropper bottles. Thanks Vince!
I highly recommend the bottle transfer kit from Huge minis. Everything you need in one package. Bottles, agitators, medium, funnel and spacer (because funnel without spacer takes forever.)
I transfer GW paint into 1 oz airbrush bottles instead of dropper bottles. Stir the paint instead of shake it, you don't get the GW "cap" covered in paint. The outer seal lip on the GW pot will fit tightly into the opening of the airbrush bottle. All you have to do is "snap" the upside down airbrush bottle onto the GW pot, and carefully flip them over and let the paint drain from the GW pot into the bottle for few hours. No mess.
When I was transferring Ral Partha and P3 paints to dropper bottles, I did a few things a bit differently: * Don't thin the paint at the start. The full thickness paint will pour (or be drawn into a pipette) pretty well when there's still a lot of it. This is true even with older bottles of paint and much more true with new. Then, when you get down to the part that doesn't flow well, add the same amount of thinner/flow improver/medium to the last bit remaining and mix again. The result will be a much thinner mixture that will remove nearly all the paint (and that will come out of the pipette better, too). And when it's all in the bottle, the mix will be the same consistency as what you have here. * I prefer pouring to pipetting when transferring paint. It's certainly scarier and if you make a mistake, it can be a big mess, but it's worked well for me. The important thing is to pour down a rod, using the surface tension of the paint to keep the stream attached to the rod. I use a thin brass rod for this, because I have them for spear shafts and the like, but many substances will work. * I get my bottles from US Plastics. Wherever you get them from, what you want are LDPE Boston Round bottles with dropper caps. I use 15ml/15cc (same measurement; some companies use ml and some use cc), because they match the Reaper, Vallejo, and Scale75 bottles well, but you can get other sizes also, including 30cc. (I also don't go through paint at the rate that Vince does, so I don't buy multiples of single colors.) * And for companies that use paper labels, the labels don't peel off well, so I print my own. (I include the bar code so that I can scan easily with paintRack, but that's probably a kind of silly step.) BTW, I _strongly_ recommend paintRack for keeping track of your hobby paints.
All good thoughts, I've tried the straight pouring without thinning, but I always just found this easier, but I certainly don't claim this to be the only way for sure, that being said, if it's working for you (or others who read), I love it. :)
My thinking about this would be to use a funnel and pour off as much as possible. Then use thinners of your choice to rinse the GW pot adding this to the funnel to flush as much paint as best possible without over thinning the total transferred paint.
Also perfectly valid, in either case, you actually end up losing a small amount of paint, but I have come to prefer the pipette (lower risk of me spilling it). :)
Great video. Adding a non ferrous metal, glass or ceramic agitator ball would be the cherry on top. I'm just annoyed that I have lots of half used GW colours that would probably not be worth transferring due to the loss of paint so I'm stuck with the pots for a little while longer.
You could further add some effortable mediums (matt, satin, gloss or glaze) from brands like Liquitex to the empty pots and you get some cheap washes and glazes. If not for your minis maybe for basing and terrain.
A bit late to the party, but a trick I found is to use clippers to snip the hinges and use the plastic bit attached to the lid as a dropper. It's far from perfect especially for layer paints that tend to require some tapping to fall down but it's a cheapo solution if you don't have dropper bottles at hand (also seems to help with the paint drying and clogging the lid from my experience)
I make tiny paper funnels so when the paint is transferred i can squirt then like a toothpaste tube and get all the paint that coated the funnel. I don’t like adding water or flow improver to the citadel paints by default though, i just scoop all the color with an old brush
All this time I thought you had somehow found somewhere to purchase GW paints in a dropper bottle! I didn't realize you were transferring them manually and just keeping the label!
I have a bottle of ratskin flesh and I just cant seem to thin it well enough! I heard that you could "transplant" but they seemed to be a hassle, but this seems alot easier to do! Thanks again for a quick and straight forward video Vince!
I can't recommend this enough. I prefer Vallejo paints, but my FLGS only stocks GW and I like to give them my support. Dropper bottles are so, so much better than pots, especially those tall pots of wash that always spill!
I don't even have any Citadel paints (just a few washes) but still had to watch the video. I agree with other commenters that using a syringe (w/o needle of course) might reduce loss. Very helpful though should I ever get any of these paints.
The one complaint I have about dropper bottles that I have used is that it seems that I end up with cracked tips in quite a few (even the small Vallejo airbrush thinner bottles). This usually translates to the paint drying out in the tip/crack and clogging all the time.
I cut a notch in the rim of the GW pot and I pour it in. I have spilled only once. I did make the mistake of thinning only with water. It ruined a couple of paints, it broke them. I will try drying them out. Pouring is an option and you wast a bit less than using a pipette.
This is the exact reason why every empty gw paint is substituted with a paint from vallejo or scale75 in my colorrange.... Except Mephiston Red/bugmans glow and rhinox hide :) these are too good
What do you think about putting some airbrush thinner in the gw pot and keep it for when you wanna airbrush the color? so you have your bottle for the pallet , a supply of thinned paint for your airbrush and less waste.
Been painting for about 3 months and inevitably dealt with a Citadel Pot spillage early-on. After spilling a pot of Contrast Apothecary White when it was 94% full, I lost my S%^& and ordered the dropper bottles. The pots not only suck, but they are by design meant to clog, and render the last 15% or so, of the paint in there useless. GW is seriously high of their own farts at this point, and it's asinine to me why they keep using the pots. I give them garbage, but their paint and washes are good, no doubt albeit expensive, in comparison to what you get from Vallejo/Ap/ProAcryl/etc.
Something to note; if you are trying to replicate vallejo size bottles you do not want the 30ml bottles as they are nearly the same size width bottles as citadel pots (Not the larger contrast pots) and still have issues fitting in most paint cases designed for vallejo/essential oil sized containers. If your goal is to get your citadel paints in bottles to fit within your average paint carry case use 15-20ml bottles. They come in taller and shorter (compared to vallejo bottles) but are essentially the same width and fit in these slots. Downside being you can only fit the contents of one citadel pot, so if you have multiples of one color you cannot marry them into one (unless they are both half empty). I learned this the hard way after buying 30ml and transferring paint, and still not being able to fit them in my 72 slot carry case. Talk about being annoyed! I also used little funnels from amazon, you can buy big packs of small funnels for 5-10$ or just find an item that is cheap and comes with a few. Some cheap 2-3$ ice cube shaping kits (Skull ice cubes for example) come with 1-2 tiny funnels and you get the cube tray for a future cocktail party lol
Sure, any can work, just hunt around on ebay, but here is something like what I used - www.ebay.com/itm/20pcs-10ml-20ml-Empty-Plastic-Squeezable-Dropper-Bottles-Eye-Liquid-Droppers/333355984469?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20180816085401%26meid%3D32289ff69e3e41f990c7980f5804b4a0%26pid%3D100970%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26mehot%3Dnone%26sd%3D333355984469%26itm%3D333355984469%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2380057%26brand%3DUnbranded&_trksid=p2380057.c100970.m5481&_trkparms=pageci%3Aff0df64d-1672-11eb-9233-16735b8a44cd%7Cparentrq%3A5dd26b6d1750aadcf4ca1d1cffefc782%7Ciid%3A1
what you recommend flow improver or airbrush thinner? i also found it's easy to cut the lid off shake it, stomp the lid on a hard surface to get the paint of the lid, this prevents paint forming around the lid, then I use a mr. hobby mixing spoon with a mini spoon to extract it.
@@VinceVenturella sorry I don't understand. I still dont get the difference between airbrush thinner or flow improver. it seems like people use either or for airbrush. Does flow improver not thin the paint down like airbrush thinner? is that what you mean?
@@MF-kv8cn So this video talks about addititve - th-cam.com/video/FuSFCiLvs1w/w-d-xo.html Airbrush thinner is generally a mix of thinner (which is just medium), a little flow improver and some drying retardent. It's all of those things but in indeterminate ratios. If we're talking about an actual airbrush mix, I use 80/20 Vallejo Airbrush Thinner/flow improver because I want to increase the amount of flow improver.
30ml botttles is a bit excessive for a single pot of paint. They hold what, 10-12ml? You can easily transfer all your regular paints into 15ml bottles. They also take up less room as they aren't as fat. If you're inclined to move the washes over, then i guess the 30ml is fine. I leave mine in the larger GW pots for shades. I also don't use a pipette. I use a funnel and just dump the pot upside down in it. Bit of blue tack to hold the empty dropper bottle and gravity does all the work for you. You could do like 10 of these at once and just check back in 20 mins. The set of bottles i got on ebay came with a big bag of funnels included.
For me, I usually move a couple of pots over at once, hence the larger bottles, but yes, you are correct, under normal circumstances, a much smaller bottle would be fine. THe funnel is also a good choice, for me, I found the pipette faster and with less chance of my spilling. :)
Or you can use a mini funnel and tape it to the dropper bottle and pour then wait then pour more. Cut the lid off the citadel horrendous paint pot and when no more will pour out, tape it upside down to the funnel. Leave until it drips the dregs into the new dropper bottle and you’re done. Way less loss of paint
Always a great idea and thats for the new improved vid, but seriously GW should drop their awful pots then there wouldn't a need for these vids and the whole side industry thats sprung up. Personally I've just stopped buying GW, which is a shame as their great paints but I refuse to have paints dry early/get knocked over, etc - just so they can get more sales - not cool GW, not cool.
A couple questions: Do you ever have issues with dropper bottle spouts splitting? I'm not sure if I just got some really bad dropper bottles (off of Amazon) but 90% of mine seem to split and then cause clogs. Do you like to transfer your washes (or contrast paints) into bottles? I've knocked over a few and this is a way to avoid that, but you also can't dip directly into the pot. I'm not sure that's a problem if you put it in a palette, though.
I haven't with the tips, I have had some bad caps split, but you can often get some low quality stuff. I don't transfer the other stuff, you certainly could, I just don't, but they are completely transferrable and it can make things easier.
The real question is why to put yourself into this situation in a first place? You are buying the most expensive paint from hobby brand there is, and then wasting even more of it by moving it from the crappy pot it comes from into a better dropper bottle. You could just buy the better, less expensive paint, already in a dropper bottle in the first place.
In my case it is easy to answer why. One of my local game stores has a plastic bin of GW air line on a sale of buy one get one free. But I hate using paint pots. Also most of the ones I bought were in the 24ml sized pots. So I'm just currently waiting on my order of 20ml & 30ml dropper bottles from Amazon to show up either later today or tomorrow along with 6mm solid glass balls for aggregators for all of my paint bottles which come with one in it.
Well, I own more paints than just about anyone, there are more than 700 bottles of paint on my walls around me right now, so I certainly have that covered, and the vast marjority are not GW. That being said, there are some colors in the range I really like, and I figure there are others out there who are in the same boat or who might only have access to GW (or might have bought a bunch early in their learning process and don't want to just throw them away), so this is for that. :)
I can't agree with this. Citadel's base paint line behave significantly better for me than a lot of other paints I've used. The layer line is a little more temperamental but I've never used a Citadel brand paint (other than their metallics) that I wanted to throw out as soon as I got it, which is an experience I've had with others, especially Vallejo. I know Vince hates Citadel's metallics, and I don't like them either overall, but Retributor Armor and Leadbelcher have always performed very well for me. I think they not only look good on their own, but I find they make excellent base paints for other gold and metallic brands to go over. Scale75's golds for example look so much nicer going over a basecoat of Retributor Armor for me, and Vallejo's Metal Color line is fantastic but without the leadbelcher for it go over first I find that it has a strange splotchy finish when applied by brush over a large area. This isn't even going into their washes, the new contrast line of which several are very nice, and their technical paints like the gemstone paints which I find make for great helmet lenses as well as the intended purpose of gemstones. People give Citadel way more hate than they deserve.
Any bottle I've considered finished for me so far has been dried out while significantly not empty. Never painted enough to properly finish a pot. :-( But yeah, I definitely hate my Citadel pots (except the contrast ones, for which I am "fine" with the existing bottles, but I wouldn't if I used them in my airbrush. Which Vince recommends, but I haven't tested. Yet. :-)
@@VinceVenturella Hi Vince, sorry - original comment may have come across a little abrupt - let me elaborate: After using water to transfer paints I've noticed that this will sometimes aid the separation of the pigment and existing medium. If you shake/use most of your paints all of the time this is probably a non-issue, but I guess it could be a problem if you tend to shelf a number of your paints for months/years. In my limited experience, I've noticed that using airbrush medium can sometimes enhance the suspension of the pigments within the mix overall, and is super evident with a number of GWs hues (you all know which ones!). I use Golden brand airbrush medium - this could be of better quality than the base formula used by GW/Citadel Colour. The effectiveness varies, of course - and you could go super-fussy by mixing airbrush medium with very slight amounts of matte medium.
I don’t bother with the pipettes. If you’re careful you can usually just pour straight from the pot into the bottle. (I still add a little thinner and water, etc.)
Just transferred over my first 6 colors into droppers. I tried both and did prefer the pipette better. You are going to lose paint with either method and the pipette was quicker for me.
That's the thing for me. You lose some paint, but it's so much more usable, it's just worth it (and the speed is a real concern if you're doing a large number, I am not patient.
Ok I have a couple questions: why do you not use the ring thing that goes under the cap? I assumed it was to help seal, but if it doesn’t...man I’m ready to throw mine away because they just fall everywhere! Also, you refilled a bottle - how many refills until you change the bottle? I’ve had some reaper paint go bad (it was admittedly quite old) and I worry about stanking things up lol. I also don’t want to buy more bottles than I need. And again, thank you sir!
So let me answer those in turn. First, the little ring, yes, I normally use it, but I lost the one on this particular bottle, but yes, normally. As far as refills go, this is the second time i've refilled this one, I would imagine you could do it several times without issue.
Hey Vincent, thanks a bunch for another video making my hobby life easier! I almost exclusively own Citadel paints. I am not a full professional painter so I mostly won’t recognise minor alterations I guess. But having run through the comments I am a little afraid that some of my colours could be influenced negatively by adding flow improver. So is that a technique you could recommend for all paints?
Fair warning: The 30ml droppers with the white lid from amazon should be avoided. The lids will crack at about 6 months. I put all my GW washes into these and had to re-house them one by one as the lids split. I got the ones with colored lids this time, maybe they will last longer. The smaller sizes have been fine so far.
Yeah, I got what I paid for. I don't really crank down on the lids. Many of them cracked on their own before I got to those particular colors. Kinda wild. They're kept in a drawer inside. idk? Anyways, the colored lids are nice and have been fine for over a year now. And you can color coordinate with what wash is in the bottle.
Can i use the flow improver as well when dealing with metalic paints like leadbelcher and retributor armor? Do i want to put less in than my regular base and layer colors while im transferring them over or is there no difference between metallics and the other paints?
So in general, GW metallic paints aren't good. Something like Vallejo Metal Color will serve you better. That being said, yes, you would want to use a little less.
So I just grabbed a random set from ebay, if you want an example, here are some - www.ebay.com/itm/20pcs-10ml-20ml-Empty-Plastic-Squeezable-Dropper-Bottles-Eye-Liquid-Droppers/333355984469?hash=item4d9d90a655:g:Dn8AAOSwmcJdnuOl
I think the pipette is kinda wasteful/expensive. I used paper funnels. Just take a small-ish piece of paper (around 50mm * 50mm aka 2"x2"), roll it up and then widen one side after putting the other side in the bottle. Make sure there is a decent hole left and then just pour the pot content into it slowly. You can even fold the top together and then squeeze down the funnel to get the remaining paint out and I use the "emptied pots" first to not waste any of that really really expensive paint.
So it's funny, this is the second time I did this video and the first time I did exactly what you described and people didn't like that one. In the end, you can use a funnel or a pipette and achieve good results. :)
This came out at a perfect time for me. Last weekend I picked up 6 - 24ml and 2 - 12ml GW Air paints from a local game store because they were Buy One Air get One Air Free. I then ordered 20ml & 30ml dropper bottles & 6mm solid glass balls for aggregators from Amazon and it should be arriving at my house today. I don't have the pipettes, so I'll be using your old homemade funnel method.... but should I make them out of parchment paper or wax paper? That is my only question I have now.
@@VinceVenturella - First off, thank Vince for the reply and information. Second is I was already guessing that the Air line was thin enough to just shake well and then transfer, but your confirmation helps to remove any doubts I may of had. Third is, as always thank you so much for this series of videos and everything else that you do for the miniatures community.
My counterpoint to the people saying this wastes paint is that you probably lose more to the paint dripping and crusting up under the lid on those crappy pots
Question. I recently decanted my entire line of citadel paints using flow improver. I find that after shaking the dropper bottles and opening the lid, I find a little paint coming out of the bottle. Did I thin the paints too much? For instance, my Abaddon black needs multiple coats to achieve the same opacity as before, but I don't use any water to thin the already thin paints.
Sometimes it can happen with paint that has a high flow, as to the consistency, sounds like they might be a little too thin. One thing you can do is let them separate and then wick some of that extra stuff off the top.
Sure, so here is an example of the ones I used, but I would search around ebay for ones you like - www.ebay.com/itm/20pcs-10ml-20ml-Empty-Plastic-Squeezable-Dropper-Bottles-Eye-Liquid-Droppers/333355984469?hash=item4d9d90a655:g:Dn8AAOSwmcJdnuOl
Sure, they don't have the same pack anymore (the nature of ebay), but these are similar - www.ebay.com/itm/100-3ml-Durable-Dropper-Transfer-Graduated-Pipettes-Disposable-Plastic-USA-Sale/263532002626?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item3d5bbb3d42:g:thYAAOSwYl9anJDf&amdata=enc%3AAQAFAAACcBaobrjLl8XobRIiIML1V4Imu%252Fn%252BzU5L90Z278x5ickkXKoKcbeZcOrOku%252BoOBl%252BS9GLJeh%252FtmVqQ8KbsUvJWs5ZHu2sRRzM8TMV2zq6Z5J175jZMFgtYwziKG7nZzxhP2GNYk0jQZdzOvjBtVkElaXX3X5godgTMLDdPcyFtvtXfYtGGjkW0UPzigCiAAvDfn272EyglTn6w1OMyw%252FIrIGhZVQUZ6LvtOlkp5PvwGhE%252Fupg%252B42z1trK%252BSi%252FCgUBX3iXXZXlyM6X5CoAjj%252FFmZpg%252FunsFrwCH1wdPZOK%252FaqYPvXXb8LQT4rXgrbR23%252BFt%252BGephostetDzaIPyJxjm21BOQkqo%252BTvgGNN%252BAk0GHMciUokttMm%252BYG5y0FgToq%252BzqCz7Lgem1Qo6QBwZPNgZzEY4b2LUYh5zs5HSxE84MjBzOHnS8zd%252FLKgkvtEAVdftQ0wSr5D%252BVlXIrFjGqZIbu3WMVQKantgKHcB8qytiSusVfFrwt9j57SHiv5DyNG3mDUWGgpwBgEKAIYOJmXmLuzK4iwFt0BWygb1iWU9PmZNYlp%252FOQNr10B2ey6%252F%252B7wRVquzM6c%252BgabyTf6F7heYUx%252BUfjSo8ACgFZZKA7GL1iDYeB0NBBQwFZ6WNhGx8H5FEeh8iOw%252BJPzw78%252BS4YmjP0479m%252Fpwa%252F%252F%252FMtJW%252FaBJZSOjA1ZWOwq%252Fj6mlMfHm3Z406UQ8YHcu4VqR5HqGRwi7TH4EhfQ3%252BnsyODfQS8LyT89557SE3J6nZdTq58urUZbEoZ6x%252B%252BjJUubKNC3WqEyk%252FuNP8v0SrbY%252Fk0t48o5vsS17Nv4PMPfEGnz1gjd9YEZUw%253D%253D%7Ccksum%3A2635320026266e530637e6c14b8b9636ae9fcaed10fa%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2334524
Yeah, with flow improver, you only need a few drops for a big effect, it's not a solvent (like water), it's fundamentally changing the basic chemistry of the paint by breaking surface tension in a way water doesn't.
Great footnotes. When I first started, I really liked Citadel's base paints as it made it quick and easy for coverage on larger models. I was sorely disappointed to learn following some other guides using flow improver that it thinned down my base paint more than I would've liked and especially made a lot of the metallics unusable.
That's why I used very little, just enough to get it moving just slightly. As to metallics, I don't have those challenges, as I only use Vallejo Metal Color.
Hello, great tutorial. I'm about to transfer my GW paints but one thing concerns me. I use Citadel paints for glazing (with Vallejo Glaze Medium) and they work just fine. I worry that by adding flow improver during transfer I'll change paint's properties to the point that, after I add Glaze Medium, it will behave like wash or will deposit in large quantities on a surface (even after i wipe excess off the brush) making it not "glazeable". Watched Your video about paint additives and I think it should be fine but still worry a bit. Could You please tell me how Citadels behave in terms of glazing after transfering using flow improver? ;)
You may have to use a slightly different amount of glaze medium, but it should still work fine with just a drop or two of flow improver in there. That being said, make one test bottle and see how your ratios work out.
did you do it, did you test it out? I'm about to transfer mine and I'm not sure what to use. I bought flow improver, but have now been warned off using it, so I'm not sure what to do. apparently the airbrush medium is better.
Yes, medium is just that - medium, it doesn't change the flow of the paint at all, because it's not a solvent or additive, it's the body. It is simply paint without pigment. Flow improver is an additive that breaks surface tension, changing the fundamental way that the paint flows so it flows more easily (hence moving to the new bottle easier). That all being said, you do need to be a little careful as to not add too much for sure.
Hello Vince. I've wached several videos about transfering paints from GW to other pots, and I am super confused about what to add to the paint. Is it flow improver (which will break the surface tension of the medium and transform paints into washes) or a medium. Even airbrush medium? Thanks
Well, after the first draw, you kind of get a good coating from the paint. So not much more sticks the side. That being said, it's an interesting idea.
I take it these tips would apply just the same to metallic paints? Would you use the thiner as with the base paints? Im relatively new to the hobby and am already finding my GW Metallics get very gunked up around the lid hinge despite being careful with them.
Great question, yes, though the metal paints are much thicker. As you are new, let me actually give you the best advice I can. DOn't use GW metal paints, don't use any other brands metal paints except Vallejo Metal Color (linked below). I usually don't make strong recommendations when it comes to paint, most of the time, brands are irrelevant, there is a difference though with metal paints. I have a full video review on the channel if you want to check it out. Here is the paint. Yes, it's more expensive, but it's also a LOT of paint and it will last you forever and it's shine, smoothness, opacity and effect are 10X the quality of any other acryllic metal paint on the market. www.amazon.com/Vallejo-Aluminum-Metal-Color-Paint/dp/B012A93XL6/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=vallejo+metal+color&qid=1603596378&sr=8-1
@@VinceVenturella Thank you! I'll be sure to check this out and give it a go. Brilliant channel by the way, thanks for all the effort you put in to it, your videos have helped me a lot!
@@VinceVenturella I use there silvers and I have the copper, but the gold I have heard is not that good. for gold, use silver and then dye it with acrylic ink. a mix of transparent burned sienna and yellow-orange, glazed over the top give a nice gold.
I use funnels and the pipettes. The funnels are easier, the key is just thinning it the right amount so you don’t thin it too much. You also have to hold the funnel up just a tad to allow airflow otherwise the funnel will not let the paint flow into the dropper bottle.
I've been transferring mine lately and I noticed that the separation is happening very quickly between sessions. Shaking doesn't seem to get the job done well enough so I keep having to stir the bottles after fighting the nozzles off each time. Do you have the same experience or would you say that adding agitators would get the job done and make shaking the bottles easily mix the paint?
I add agitators for sure. I would say if you are seeing that, you might want to use a little less flow improver as well. The other option, if it separates, just skim a little off the top, don't shake it, use it to your advantage.
@@VinceVenturella I'll give it a shot. But I'm still surprised because I'm actually using less flow improver than you did in the video. And not adding the extra water either.
Let them sit for some amount of time, don't shake them, the medium/improver will naturally separate out to the top. Use a pipette and siphon that off. Then mix after and you should be good to go.
On my Liquitex flow-aid it says on the bottle that I need to dilute it with 1 drop flow-aid to 20 drops of water before use. Do I really? :D Or can I just use it straight out of the pot?
A tip for people that thinned there paints too much. If you leave them to settle for a while, they will separate on you. Normally you just give them a thorough shake, but in this case you get the opportunity to remove some of the extra moisture first.
Hey Vince! This is one of the few times, that I disagree with your approach. I think that thinning the whole pot with Flow Improver sort of defeats the point of using GW Base-Paints. And while usually two thin coats is splendid, there are exceptions, and while it's always easy to dilute, it's basically impossible to intensify the Pigment-Density. I've had success by ripping the whole Lid off - if you don't do that, it gets even more fiddly and awkward - and carefully pouring the viscous paint directly into the Dropper-Bottle. Then I scraped some of the paint with a mini-spoon-handle to get a bit more out, though a proper tool would certainly be better. And just then I went with diluting the rest. The Lid still fits on after being ripped, but while shaking be sure to hold them before going too ham - please don't ask how I found that out... But well. Maybe, at some point in a brighter Utopian Future, GW will deliver their expensive product in useful containers...
Over 95% of the time most of us will be using some to thin down a base before we use it. The number of reasons why we would use it un-thinned is greatly dwarfed by the practicality of already having it slightly pre-thinned. Also the amount of flow-aid and water which he is showing us to use is less than 1ml, so in the case of using 1ml in a 12ml pot it is still well under a 8% dilution in the final total volume.
Indeed, the 8% dilution in Paint Pigmentation per volume isn't that relevant. But the Flow-Improver also lowers the Viscosity, thus limiting the actual thickness of paint-application, which is significant in some, rather rare, applications. Also, if you're glazing, you're thinning much, much further anyhow.
All fair, for me, it's bringing it closer to the thinness I am generally using it at, so it's not a challenge. I have specific paints if I am wanting something highly opaque (and they aren't citadel), so for most other paints, I like it when they are more easily flowing. TO each their own on that of course. :)
@@guyfromtheinternet1432 how does the thinned mix work for dry brushing, please? I do a lot of smudging and stuff with artis opus brushes and require my paints to be able to be dry brushed.
@@D00M3R-SK8 I'm certainly no expert on drybrushing and I don't own Artis Opus brushes. But from what I've learned, controlling the moisture of your half-dry paint in the brush has really big impact, I would think that the minor loss in viscosity due to flow improvers plays second fiddle to that.
They don't care about that. 1. They sell you the least amount of paint from hobby brands. You get over 40% more paint in a normal Vallejo, Scale75, Army Painter etc. (which all even cost less money) dropper bottle than you get in GW pot. If they would switch to same kind of bottle, the size difference is clearly visible. 2. They try to differentiate from other hobby brands with their pots. 3. Those pots are designed to dry out over time, so people but more of their overpriced crappy little pots.
Yeah, some of the caps are really cheap plastic and crack pretty easy with pressure. If you get the ones with the black caps, they don't tend to crack as much, but you can also just drop some thick glue or someting in there and the cap will be fine.
It depends on whether you use cheap throw away pipettes or if you spend the little bit extra for laboratory grade... like $10 for two Or you know use a funnel.
I have never heard anyone say they like the gw pots yet they make no effort to change them. That leaves me to believe they hope your paints dry out so you can buy more. Shiiiiisty
2:55 ooohhh please secure that pot with some clay or bluetac on to your desk!!! For heavens sake just look at that thing going all crazy. Pro tip......
THe exact ones I bought weren't available anymore, but anything on ebay that is plastic dropper bottles will work (that's the challenge with this stuff on ebay, it changes all the time). Here is an example - www.ebay.com/itm/20pcs-10ml-20ml-Empty-Plastic-Squeezable-Dropper-Bottles-Eye-Liquid-Droppers/333355984469?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20180816085401%26meid%3D0e6e322250604003af344ad4efec3fbd%26pid%3D100970%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26mehot%3Dnone%26sd%3D333355984469%26itm%3D333355984469%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2380057%26brand%3DUnbranded&_trksid=p2380057.c100970.m5481&_trkparms=pageci%3Ae120bcc5-1927-11eb-a6f8-c2037f68d245%7Cparentrq%3A6f8f4c611750a77d33832b5efffef53a%7Ciid%3A1
@@HurtPower I usually break up old pewter figs and put little pieces inside (as they can't rust), that being said, yes, some agitator (glass bead, whatever) is a good idea.
@@juliethibault9940 Al lot of us started with GW paints before we knew better. Also, like Vince said in another video, some GW paints have shades or properties that aren't there in other lines. I think he said he liked Abaddon black because it has a nice satin finish.
I have some from days back and I don’t want to waste them that’s why I’ve transferred mine and some of the colors aren’t too bad and are actually pretty good, but I do prefer my scale75 over my other paints.
Lots of people answered below, but yes, I don't love GW paints, and I only have a few, but others might only have access in their areas to these paints, or might have bought a bunch when they started the hobby and not want to waste all of that paint. :) Want to make sure we take care of everyone. :)
GW paints are the most readily available paints in any hobby store, at least in my area. Just got a place that now sells Vallejo range but they don't keep the racks stocked so always missing colors. I own a ton of GW paints and i really like some of the colors. Incubi Darkess, Bugmans Glow, Averland Sunset, Mephiston Red, a bunch of their greens and blues. There's a lot of good solid colors in the range. Their washes and tech paints are also very good. I also find Vallejo (model color) to be excessively thick out of the pot and more difficult to work with. YMMV
My wife has a paint vortex mixer, I hear her using it sometimes. She never seems to paint anything though.
Strange, maybe she's working on a secret army. ;)
hahaha :D
Thanks for doing this. I know so many people who still use GW paint pots and complain about how arduous this process is.
I did this with contrast, and it is soooo easy. Don't even need the pipette because they flow so easy. And--TIP--if you have more spare small dropper bottles and need a funnel, just cut one of those bottles in half, insert the dropper nib, then turn it upside down and you've got a funnel for another dropper bottle.
Oh yes, if you have things like air paints, or contrast paints, it's much easier for sure. :)
Another method which I highly recommend, a luer lock syringe with a thin blunt dispensing tip, you can get through a pot of paint in a matter of seconds with minimal lost paint (If you want to get super pedantic about it, you can use a silicon sculpting tool to scrape down the sides too). A couple of pulls of water into the syringe and it flushes it out and you're good to go for another paint.
I'm working on some TH-cam videos with short tips etc and the syringe method was the first thing I filmed :)
Woah. Good tip. I actually already have these for fountain pen ink!
Super cool tip, I will have to give that a try.
I hadn't seen this response when I posted mine. I used the method in this video until I came across the syringe solution. I solidly recommend it for anyone who is willing to commit a small amount of funds to the task!
does this work without putting things into the paint?
I don't like the idea of adding things like air brush thinner, as I do a lot of dry brushing work, and I'm worried I'll ruin my paint for this purpose.
I use a set that I paid around 80 pounds for. and I don't want to have to go and buy paints again to dry brush with.
I have a feeling the flow improver will completely ruin paints for dry brushing.
You should have moisture on the brush, but the paint should be dry, this is how you control the different techniques.
The moisture on the brush hydrates the paint the right amount, and with additives in the paint to make it glide I feel you can no longer dry brush with it.
I think if anything, I will use very small amounts of distilled water, as at least this will evaporate over time, and can be drawn out of the paint while prepping for dry brushing.
I don't think you can draw air brush thinner out in a traditional way.
@@D00M3R-SK8 For dry brushing, you don’t really need the paint to be thick and “dry” if done correctly. You can dry brush perfectly fine with thinned down paint, so I wouldn’t worry about thinning the paint down a bit.
When you transfer them to a dropper, and realize how little they fill, you'll feel ripped off.
Sure, you mean when you realize you get about 10ml of paint out of it, I get it.
I felt ripped off my first forray into this hobby as I ordered a 13 paint citadel kit that was on sale from 65 to 40$, as i sat waiting for the shipping I thought I got this awesome deal. Then the paint arrived and I realized how dam tiny citadel pots were and instantly felt like a moron. Even at 35-40% the normal msrp, its a dam rip off.
@@TheDigitalThreatyea, that starter kit is pretty laughable. Without a doubt.
@@TheDigitalThreat Same here RE: size surprise for GW. I used AP for my first couple projects because it was the cheapest. Then I found MWG’s awesome recipe videos (which use GW exclusively) and ordered some GW paints. When they arrived my first thought was, “Wow. These pots look so much bigger on camera.” 😂
I just wanted to report that, now that I've spent quite a few hours transfering and thinning my old old GW paints, they are now readily usable and this means it has brought joy to me to be able to paint with them more confidently and "out of the dropper bottle". I can't phrase this properly: I was trying to find alternatives because of the pot and the thickness, and now I'm just painting with them again.
THANKS, Vince.
Excellent, happy to help. :)
I really like doing this. I recommend using a small funnel (like one for mixing meds) instead. I also prethinned for airbrusing the colors I knew I was going to use throuh it. Overall recommended
Yeah, the pipette or the funnels both work for sure. :)
Or you could do it like a real man and just pour them straight from the pot
@@darusblodsinn4665 That's a disaster waiting to happen.
@@alcovitch If you can paint a mini's face, you can aim into the open bottle.
im just using a tiny funnel. funnel in the dropper, citadel pot in the funnel and just let gravity do the work. it takes some time but you dont make a mess and got hardly any leftovers
Also a good method, after doing both, I just found I liked this better, mainly becuase of the speed. :)
The fact that videos like this exist is something GW should be ashamed of.
It's a mystery they don't change bottles at this point.
The fact that someone would rather do this than change brands? Stop buying their product if you want them to change something
@@cintfaceful They have some colors I enjoy using, but for the most part I already left. Been all about Pro Acryl by Monument Games for a while now. Excellent paint.
Just picked up my first Citadel base paint (Bugman's Glow) from my LFGS yesterday... your timing is perfect! Been painting with all Vallejo paints and will say that I much prefer dropper bottles. Thanks Vince!
That is awesome! :)
I highly recommend the bottle transfer kit from Huge minis. Everything you need in one package. Bottles, agitators, medium, funnel and spacer (because funnel without spacer takes forever.)
Interesting, I'll have to check it out.
But...if I transfer them out of the pots I can't knock them over. You dare intervene with the sacrifices to the paint god??
This is a good point. :)
I transfer GW paint into 1 oz airbrush bottles instead of dropper bottles. Stir the paint instead of shake it, you don't get the GW "cap" covered in paint. The outer seal lip on the GW pot will fit tightly into the opening of the airbrush bottle. All you have to do is "snap" the upside down airbrush bottle onto the GW pot, and carefully flip them over and let the paint drain from the GW pot into the bottle for few hours. No mess.
Interesting, cool solution for sure.
When I was transferring Ral Partha and P3 paints to dropper bottles, I did a few things a bit differently:
* Don't thin the paint at the start. The full thickness paint will pour (or be drawn into a pipette) pretty well when there's still a lot of it. This is true even with older bottles of paint and much more true with new. Then, when you get down to the part that doesn't flow well, add the same amount of thinner/flow improver/medium to the last bit remaining and mix again. The result will be a much thinner mixture that will remove nearly all the paint (and that will come out of the pipette better, too). And when it's all in the bottle, the mix will be the same consistency as what you have here.
* I prefer pouring to pipetting when transferring paint. It's certainly scarier and if you make a mistake, it can be a big mess, but it's worked well for me. The important thing is to pour down a rod, using the surface tension of the paint to keep the stream attached to the rod. I use a thin brass rod for this, because I have them for spear shafts and the like, but many substances will work.
* I get my bottles from US Plastics. Wherever you get them from, what you want are LDPE Boston Round bottles with dropper caps. I use 15ml/15cc (same measurement; some companies use ml and some use cc), because they match the Reaper, Vallejo, and Scale75 bottles well, but you can get other sizes also, including 30cc. (I also don't go through paint at the rate that Vince does, so I don't buy multiples of single colors.)
* And for companies that use paper labels, the labels don't peel off well, so I print my own. (I include the bar code so that I can scan easily with paintRack, but that's probably a kind of silly step.) BTW, I _strongly_ recommend paintRack for keeping track of your hobby paints.
All good thoughts, I've tried the straight pouring without thinning, but I always just found this easier, but I certainly don't claim this to be the only way for sure, that being said, if it's working for you (or others who read), I love it. :)
My thinking about this would be to use a funnel and pour off as much as possible. Then use thinners of your choice to rinse the GW pot adding this to the funnel to flush as much paint as best possible without over thinning the total transferred paint.
Also perfectly valid, in either case, you actually end up losing a small amount of paint, but I have come to prefer the pipette (lower risk of me spilling it). :)
Great video. Adding a non ferrous metal, glass or ceramic agitator ball would be the cherry on top. I'm just annoyed that I have lots of half used GW colours that would probably not be worth transferring due to the loss of paint so I'm stuck with the pots for a little while longer.
I use an old brush to scrape out as much extra paint from the pot as possible.
Yep, I didn't show it, but I do have little ceramic agitators as well as cut up old pewter figures I use for agitators. :)
You could further add some effortable mediums (matt, satin, gloss or glaze) from brands like Liquitex to the empty pots and you get some cheap washes and glazes. If not for your minis maybe for basing and terrain.
Cool idea. I love having those kinds of options on hand for terrain and stuff.
A bit late to the party, but a trick I found is to use clippers to snip the hinges and use the plastic bit attached to the lid as a dropper. It's far from perfect especially for layer paints that tend to require some tapping to fall down but it's a cheapo solution if you don't have dropper bottles at hand (also seems to help with the paint drying and clogging the lid from my experience)
That's a good tip, that little tip is the bane.
I make tiny paper funnels so when the paint is transferred i can squirt then like a toothpaste tube and get all the paint that coated the funnel. I don’t like adding water or flow improver to the citadel paints by default though, i just scoop all the color with an old brush
It's funny, that was what I did in the first video and everyone complained. :)
Literally sat here designing a stand to hold pots, funnel and droppers to 3d print!
Well, I suppose there are multiple ways to solve the problem. ;)
The labels come off so easy you kind of wonder if GW expects people to do this
It's a good observation. :)
All this time I thought you had somehow found somewhere to purchase GW paints in a dropper bottle! I didn't realize you were transferring them manually and just keeping the label!
Yep, that's the big secret. :)
I have a bottle of ratskin flesh and I just cant seem to thin it well enough! I heard that you could "transplant" but they seemed to be a hassle, but this seems alot easier to do! Thanks again for a quick and straight forward video Vince!
Happy to help as always. :)
I can't stand the GW paint pots but I like the Citadel paints, so transfer to dropper bottles is a must for me, good vid!!
Thank you, always happy to help. :)
I can't recommend this enough. I prefer Vallejo paints, but my FLGS only stocks GW and I like to give them my support. Dropper bottles are so, so much better than pots, especially those tall pots of wash that always spill!
I am much in the same boat. :)
Gonna try this method for your gold paint mixture, so I can make it in bulk and save it.
I will say, with the alocohol in there, you want to be a little careful with mixing a lot, it will change over time.
@@VinceVenturella That's very good to keep in mind, thank you!
Nice update! PIpette trick is certainly preferable to the funnel :)
Yeah, this is a much better way. :)
Great video but you teased that blood angels video now i cant wait for it
Don't worry, not that long now. :)
Mr. Venturella you may have mentioned this, but the labels are so easy to come off when they are dry. So taking them off first is my recommendation.
Good note. :)
@@VinceVenturella Yeah it sticks better too..
That’s why I like Vallejo!
Myself as well, the GW paints are the minority of my collection, but there are colors I love.
I don't even have any Citadel paints (just a few washes) but still had to watch the video. I agree with other commenters that using a syringe (w/o needle of course) might reduce loss. Very helpful though should I ever get any of these paints.
It's a good thought
The one complaint I have about dropper bottles that I have used is that it seems that I end up with cracked tips in quite a few (even the small Vallejo airbrush thinner bottles). This usually translates to the paint drying out in the tip/crack and clogging all the time.
Yeah, I've learned it's better to spend a little more on quality dropper bottles.
I cut a notch in the rim of the GW pot and I pour it in. I have spilled only once. I did make the mistake of thinning only with water. It ruined a couple of paints, it broke them. I will try drying them out. Pouring is an option and you wast a bit less than using a pipette.
The cut an option is very clever - why did I never think of that???
This is the exact reason why every empty gw paint is substituted with a paint from vallejo or scale75 in my colorrange.... Except Mephiston Red/bugmans glow and rhinox hide :) these are too good
That Bugman's Glow and Rhinox hide are great though. :)
What do you think about putting some airbrush thinner in the gw pot and keep it for when you wanna airbrush the color? so you have your bottle for the pallet , a supply of thinned paint for your airbrush and less waste.
Absolutely great idea and no issues at all.
I like to use airbrush thinner when i do that. so the color is pre thinned in the dropper bottle. But that's a personal preference.
Perfectly valid and a good plan for sure. :)
Been painting for about 3 months and inevitably dealt with a Citadel Pot spillage early-on. After spilling a pot of Contrast Apothecary White when it was 94% full, I lost my S%^& and ordered the dropper bottles. The pots not only suck, but they are by design meant to clog, and render the last 15% or so, of the paint in there useless. GW is seriously high of their own farts at this point, and it's asinine to me why they keep using the pots. I give them garbage, but their paint and washes are good, no doubt albeit expensive, in comparison to what you get from Vallejo/Ap/ProAcryl/etc.
I've done this for most of my GW paints and I think I may have overthinned some of them, just have to wick off the extra moisture on a paper towel.
Yep, or you can let them sit for a little while, the thinning agent will separate out on top and you can draw it off with a pipette and then remix.
Congrats on 50k Vince!
Thanks! :)
Ive found out using flow improver with a paint brush works very well. I get 90% plus of paint out of original bottle. I enjoyed your video though.
Great tip!
Something to note; if you are trying to replicate vallejo size bottles you do not want the 30ml bottles as they are nearly the same size width bottles as citadel pots (Not the larger contrast pots) and still have issues fitting in most paint cases designed for vallejo/essential oil sized containers. If your goal is to get your citadel paints in bottles to fit within your average paint carry case use 15-20ml bottles. They come in taller and shorter (compared to vallejo bottles) but are essentially the same width and fit in these slots. Downside being you can only fit the contents of one citadel pot, so if you have multiples of one color you cannot marry them into one (unless they are both half empty).
I learned this the hard way after buying 30ml and transferring paint, and still not being able to fit them in my 72 slot carry case. Talk about being annoyed!
I also used little funnels from amazon, you can buy big packs of small funnels for 5-10$ or just find an item that is cheap and comes with a few. Some cheap 2-3$ ice cube shaping kits (Skull ice cubes for example) come with 1-2 tiny funnels and you get the cube tray for a future cocktail party lol
Yep, good thoughts all around. :)
Dropper bottle link, please. :)
Sure, any can work, just hunt around on ebay, but here is something like what I used - www.ebay.com/itm/20pcs-10ml-20ml-Empty-Plastic-Squeezable-Dropper-Bottles-Eye-Liquid-Droppers/333355984469?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20180816085401%26meid%3D32289ff69e3e41f990c7980f5804b4a0%26pid%3D100970%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26mehot%3Dnone%26sd%3D333355984469%26itm%3D333355984469%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2380057%26brand%3DUnbranded&_trksid=p2380057.c100970.m5481&_trkparms=pageci%3Aff0df64d-1672-11eb-9233-16735b8a44cd%7Cparentrq%3A5dd26b6d1750aadcf4ca1d1cffefc782%7Ciid%3A1
what you recommend flow improver or airbrush thinner?
i also found it's easy to cut the lid off shake it, stomp the lid on a hard surface to get the paint of the lid, this prevents paint forming around the lid, then I use a mr. hobby mixing spoon with a mini spoon to extract it.
I like pure flow improver, because then I can control directly as opposed to airbrush thinner with is a mix.
@@VinceVenturella sorry I don't understand. I still dont get the difference between airbrush thinner or flow improver. it seems like people use either or for airbrush. Does flow improver not thin the paint down like airbrush thinner? is that what you mean?
@@MF-kv8cn So this video talks about addititve - th-cam.com/video/FuSFCiLvs1w/w-d-xo.html
Airbrush thinner is generally a mix of thinner (which is just medium), a little flow improver and some drying retardent. It's all of those things but in indeterminate ratios. If we're talking about an actual airbrush mix, I use 80/20 Vallejo Airbrush Thinner/flow improver because I want to increase the amount of flow improver.
30ml botttles is a bit excessive for a single pot of paint. They hold what, 10-12ml? You can easily transfer all your regular paints into 15ml bottles. They also take up less room as they aren't as fat. If you're inclined to move the washes over, then i guess the 30ml is fine. I leave mine in the larger GW pots for shades.
I also don't use a pipette. I use a funnel and just dump the pot upside down in it. Bit of blue tack to hold the empty dropper bottle and gravity does all the work for you. You could do like 10 of these at once and just check back in 20 mins.
The set of bottles i got on ebay came with a big bag of funnels included.
For me, I usually move a couple of pots over at once, hence the larger bottles, but yes, you are correct, under normal circumstances, a much smaller bottle would be fine. THe funnel is also a good choice, for me, I found the pipette faster and with less chance of my spilling. :)
Or you can use a mini funnel and tape it to the dropper bottle and pour then wait then pour more. Cut the lid off the citadel horrendous paint pot and when no more will pour out, tape it upside down to the funnel. Leave until it drips the dregs into the new dropper bottle and you’re done. Way less loss of paint
It's funny, the first time I did one of these, I used a funnel and everyone pushed me to what you see here. :)
I took the easy way out and used DropTops. So much easier than transferring.
Totally fair.
Always a great idea and thats for the new improved vid, but seriously GW should drop their awful pots then there wouldn't a need for these vids and the whole side industry thats sprung up.
Personally I've just stopped buying GW, which is a shame as their great paints but I refuse to have paints dry early/get knocked over, etc - just so they can get more sales - not cool GW, not cool.
Totally understandable and I think the majority wish they would go to bottles for sure. :)
A couple questions:
Do you ever have issues with dropper bottle spouts splitting? I'm not sure if I just got some really bad dropper bottles (off of Amazon) but 90% of mine seem to split and then cause clogs.
Do you like to transfer your washes (or contrast paints) into bottles? I've knocked over a few and this is a way to avoid that, but you also can't dip directly into the pot. I'm not sure that's a problem if you put it in a palette, though.
I haven't with the tips, I have had some bad caps split, but you can often get some low quality stuff. I don't transfer the other stuff, you certainly could, I just don't, but they are completely transferrable and it can make things easier.
The real question is why to put yourself into this situation in a first place? You are buying the most expensive paint from hobby brand there is, and then wasting even more of it by moving it from the crappy pot it comes from into a better dropper bottle.
You could just buy the better, less expensive paint, already in a dropper bottle in the first place.
Abaddon black happens to be one of few citadel paints that is better than the other available options. it has a lovely satin like finish which is nice
In my case it is easy to answer why. One of my local game stores has a plastic bin of GW air line on a sale of buy one get one free. But I hate using paint pots.
Also most of the ones I bought were in the 24ml sized pots. So I'm just currently waiting on my order of 20ml & 30ml dropper bottles from Amazon to show up either later today or tomorrow along with 6mm solid glass balls for aggregators for all of my paint bottles which come with one in it.
Well, I own more paints than just about anyone, there are more than 700 bottles of paint on my walls around me right now, so I certainly have that covered, and the vast marjority are not GW. That being said, there are some colors in the range I really like, and I figure there are others out there who are in the same boat or who might only have access to GW (or might have bought a bunch early in their learning process and don't want to just throw them away), so this is for that. :)
I can't agree with this. Citadel's base paint line behave significantly better for me than a lot of other paints I've used. The layer line is a little more temperamental but I've never used a Citadel brand paint (other than their metallics) that I wanted to throw out as soon as I got it, which is an experience I've had with others, especially Vallejo.
I know Vince hates Citadel's metallics, and I don't like them either overall, but Retributor Armor and Leadbelcher have always performed very well for me. I think they not only look good on their own, but I find they make excellent base paints for other gold and metallic brands to go over. Scale75's golds for example look so much nicer going over a basecoat of Retributor Armor for me, and Vallejo's Metal Color line is fantastic but without the leadbelcher for it go over first I find that it has a strange splotchy finish when applied by brush over a large area.
This isn't even going into their washes, the new contrast line of which several are very nice, and their technical paints like the gemstone paints which I find make for great helmet lenses as well as the intended purpose of gemstones.
People give Citadel way more hate than they deserve.
Any bottle I've considered finished for me so far has been dried out while significantly not empty. Never painted enough to properly finish a pot. :-( But yeah, I definitely hate my Citadel pots (except the contrast ones, for which I am "fine" with the existing bottles, but I wouldn't if I used them in my airbrush. Which Vince recommends, but I haven't tested. Yet. :-)
Yeah, moving contrast is really easy, as it doesn't need any thinner, you can just pipette or funnel it directly in.
Don’t forget to like and comment to appease the almighty algorithm 👍🏼
Thank you, as always. :)
I can't tell you how many times I've knocked over a GW pot.
We've all been there for sure. :)
Zero, would be my number. I’m a hero like that :)
@@rastamann2009 Oh come on. Nuln Oil all over the table is a must! ;)
@@Rybak7 nope, hero-like :)
Airbrush medium is the best fluid to decant. Don't use water unless it's distilled.
Good tip. :)
@@VinceVenturella Hi Vince, sorry - original comment may have come across a little abrupt - let me elaborate: After using water to transfer paints I've noticed that this will sometimes aid the separation of the pigment and existing medium. If you shake/use most of your paints all of the time this is probably a non-issue, but I guess it could be a problem if you tend to shelf a number of your paints for months/years.
In my limited experience, I've noticed that using airbrush medium can sometimes enhance the suspension of the pigments within the mix overall, and is super evident with a number of GWs hues (you all know which ones!). I use Golden brand airbrush medium - this could be of better quality than the base formula used by GW/Citadel Colour. The effectiveness varies, of course - and you could go super-fussy by mixing airbrush medium with very slight amounts of matte medium.
@@DaveFallows Makes sense.
I don’t bother with the pipettes. If you’re careful you can usually just pour straight from the pot into the bottle. (I still add a little thinner and water, etc.)
I'm not careful, that's my challenge. :)
Just transferred over my first 6 colors into droppers. I tried both and did prefer the pipette better. You are going to lose paint with either method and the pipette was quicker for me.
That's the thing for me. You lose some paint, but it's so much more usable, it's just worth it (and the speed is a real concern if you're doing a large number, I am not patient.
If only there were other brands of paints that came in dropper bottles, for less money, by default. Ah well, one can dream.
Oh sure, and I use many of those, but this is a very common question I get. :)
Ok I have a couple questions: why do you not use the ring thing that goes under the cap? I assumed it was to help seal, but if it doesn’t...man I’m ready to throw mine away because they just fall everywhere! Also, you refilled a bottle - how many refills until you change the bottle? I’ve had some reaper paint go bad (it was admittedly quite old) and I worry about stanking things up lol. I also don’t want to buy more bottles than I need.
And again, thank you sir!
So let me answer those in turn. First, the little ring, yes, I normally use it, but I lost the one on this particular bottle, but yes, normally.
As far as refills go, this is the second time i've refilled this one, I would imagine you could do it several times without issue.
@@VinceVenturella thanks Vince! You are a gem:)
Hey Vincent, thanks a bunch for another video making my hobby life easier! I almost exclusively own Citadel paints. I am not a full professional painter so I mostly won’t recognise minor alterations I guess. But having run through the comments I am a little afraid that some of my colours could be influenced negatively by adding flow improver. So is that a technique you could recommend for all paints?
It's fine if you're having trouble with sharp thin lines. It's certainly not necessary.
Fair warning: The 30ml droppers with the white lid from amazon should be avoided. The lids will crack at about 6 months. I put all my GW washes into these and had to re-house them one by one as the lids split.
I got the ones with colored lids this time, maybe they will last longer.
The smaller sizes have been fine so far.
Interesting, I have had a few lids crack, but only like 2 out of the 25 or so I used, but yeah, it's a very cheap plastic.
I got the 100 bottles with the black cap that came with a funnel from Amazon. I've had them for over a year and no problems.
Yeah I am not sure if I got a bad batch or what. Initially I tried to superglue the cracks but they spread anyways.
just don't buy the cheapest ones. I bought mid range ones and hopefully they don't break.
you might also be tightening the lid too much.
Yeah, I got what I paid for. I don't really crank down on the lids. Many of them cracked on their own before I got to those particular colors. Kinda wild. They're kept in a drawer inside. idk? Anyways, the colored lids are nice and have been fine for over a year now. And you can color coordinate with what wash is in the bottle.
Can i use the flow improver as well when dealing with metalic paints like leadbelcher and retributor armor? Do i want to put less in than my regular base and layer colors while im transferring them over or is there no difference between metallics and the other paints?
So in general, GW metallic paints aren't good. Something like Vallejo Metal Color will serve you better. That being said, yes, you would want to use a little less.
A great video as always, Vincent. Can we get the link to the dropper bottles, please?
So I just grabbed a random set from ebay, if you want an example, here are some - www.ebay.com/itm/20pcs-10ml-20ml-Empty-Plastic-Squeezable-Dropper-Bottles-Eye-Liquid-Droppers/333355984469?hash=item4d9d90a655:g:Dn8AAOSwmcJdnuOl
Great stuff friend
Thank you 👍
Have you stopped using Vallejo thinner?
DOn't use it very often, but again, any sort of medium (Vallejo, Citadel, liquitex, green stuff world), they all perform pretty similar.
I think the pipette is kinda wasteful/expensive. I used paper funnels. Just take a small-ish piece of paper (around 50mm * 50mm aka 2"x2"), roll it up and then widen one side after putting the other side in the bottle. Make sure there is a decent hole left and then just pour the pot content into it slowly. You can even fold the top together and then squeeze down the funnel to get the remaining paint out and I use the "emptied pots" first to not waste any of that really really expensive paint.
So it's funny, this is the second time I did this video and the first time I did exactly what you described and people didn't like that one. In the end, you can use a funnel or a pipette and achieve good results. :)
@@VinceVenturella Did you use a plastic funnel or a selfmade paper one?
@@elricdotah Paper
Hc51 it was. A big mess that was… but i like that vince leaves it there, best way to learn is to see how not to do it…
This came out at a perfect time for me. Last weekend I picked up 6 - 24ml and 2 - 12ml GW Air paints from a local game store because they were Buy One Air get One Air Free. I then ordered 20ml & 30ml dropper bottles & 6mm solid glass balls for aggregators from Amazon and it should be arriving at my house today.
I don't have the pipettes, so I'll be using your old homemade funnel method.... but should I make them out of parchment paper or wax paper? That is my only question I have now.
If you're going to use the funnel, wax paper for sure. That being said, you also won't need to thin the air paints at all, they should flow.
@@VinceVenturella - First off, thank Vince for the reply and information.
Second is I was already guessing that the Air line was thin enough to just shake well and then transfer, but your confirmation helps to remove any doubts I may of had.
Third is, as always thank you so much for this series of videos and everything else that you do for the miniatures community.
My counterpoint to the people saying this wastes paint is that you probably lose more to the paint dripping and crusting up under the lid on those crappy pots
You are not wrong.
Question. I recently decanted my entire line of citadel paints using flow improver. I find that after shaking the dropper bottles and opening the lid, I find a little paint coming out of the bottle. Did I thin the paints too much? For instance, my Abaddon black needs multiple coats to achieve the same opacity as before, but I don't use any water to thin the already thin paints.
Sometimes it can happen with paint that has a high flow, as to the consistency, sounds like they might be a little too thin. One thing you can do is let them separate and then wick some of that extra stuff off the top.
Great tune man. Did you have a link for those dropper bottles?
Sure, so here is an example of the ones I used, but I would search around ebay for ones you like - www.ebay.com/itm/20pcs-10ml-20ml-Empty-Plastic-Squeezable-Dropper-Bottles-Eye-Liquid-Droppers/333355984469?hash=item4d9d90a655:g:Dn8AAOSwmcJdnuOl
Very useful, thanks! Is it possible to clean and reuse the pipette? Or do you get through one per colour?
I can generally rinse it out, but I tend to use one per color (you get them in packs of 100 for a few dollars, so it's no real issue).
@@VinceVenturella Cool, thank you!
Hi Vince, very dumb question here, but just for the record, is airbrush flow improver the same stuff as the flow improvers marketed toward brush work?
Slightly different, airbrush flow improver usually has additional additives such as drying retardent, but can be used similarly.
@@VinceVenturellaThank you!
Useful video. Can you please put the link to eBay for the the pipettes you use in the video description? Thanks.
Sure, they don't have the same pack anymore (the nature of ebay), but these are similar - www.ebay.com/itm/100-3ml-Durable-Dropper-Transfer-Graduated-Pipettes-Disposable-Plastic-USA-Sale/263532002626?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item3d5bbb3d42:g:thYAAOSwYl9anJDf&amdata=enc%3AAQAFAAACcBaobrjLl8XobRIiIML1V4Imu%252Fn%252BzU5L90Z278x5ickkXKoKcbeZcOrOku%252BoOBl%252BS9GLJeh%252FtmVqQ8KbsUvJWs5ZHu2sRRzM8TMV2zq6Z5J175jZMFgtYwziKG7nZzxhP2GNYk0jQZdzOvjBtVkElaXX3X5godgTMLDdPcyFtvtXfYtGGjkW0UPzigCiAAvDfn272EyglTn6w1OMyw%252FIrIGhZVQUZ6LvtOlkp5PvwGhE%252Fupg%252B42z1trK%252BSi%252FCgUBX3iXXZXlyM6X5CoAjj%252FFmZpg%252FunsFrwCH1wdPZOK%252FaqYPvXXb8LQT4rXgrbR23%252BFt%252BGephostetDzaIPyJxjm21BOQkqo%252BTvgGNN%252BAk0GHMciUokttMm%252BYG5y0FgToq%252BzqCz7Lgem1Qo6QBwZPNgZzEY4b2LUYh5zs5HSxE84MjBzOHnS8zd%252FLKgkvtEAVdftQ0wSr5D%252BVlXIrFjGqZIbu3WMVQKantgKHcB8qytiSusVfFrwt9j57SHiv5DyNG3mDUWGgpwBgEKAIYOJmXmLuzK4iwFt0BWygb1iWU9PmZNYlp%252FOQNr10B2ey6%252F%252B7wRVquzM6c%252BgabyTf6F7heYUx%252BUfjSo8ACgFZZKA7GL1iDYeB0NBBQwFZ6WNhGx8H5FEeh8iOw%252BJPzw78%252BS4YmjP0479m%252Fpwa%252F%252F%252FMtJW%252FaBJZSOjA1ZWOwq%252Fj6mlMfHm3Z406UQ8YHcu4VqR5HqGRwi7TH4EhfQ3%252BnsyODfQS8LyT89557SE3J6nZdTq58urUZbEoZ6x%252B%252BjJUubKNC3WqEyk%252FuNP8v0SrbY%252Fk0t48o5vsS17Nv4PMPfEGnz1gjd9YEZUw%253D%253D%7Ccksum%3A2635320026266e530637e6c14b8b9636ae9fcaed10fa%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2334524
@@VinceVenturella Thanks very much
Great video! Why do you recommend flow improver instead of more water? I've done this with water, and now I'm wondering what I'm missing out on.
Yeah, with flow improver, you only need a few drops for a big effect, it's not a solvent (like water), it's fundamentally changing the basic chemistry of the paint by breaking surface tension in a way water doesn't.
Will GW contrastpaints and washes benefit from this?
I don't actually move those, as I tend to want them straight from the pot, so those, ironically, I keep in the pot.
Great footnotes. When I first started, I really liked Citadel's base paints as it made it quick and easy for coverage on larger models. I was sorely disappointed to learn following some other guides using flow improver that it thinned down my base paint more than I would've liked and especially made a lot of the metallics unusable.
That's why I used very little, just enough to get it moving just slightly. As to metallics, I don't have those challenges, as I only use Vallejo Metal Color.
@@VinceVenturella Definitely, I've also switched to using those since then.
Hello, great tutorial. I'm about to transfer my GW paints but one thing concerns me. I use Citadel paints for glazing (with Vallejo Glaze Medium) and they work just fine. I worry that by adding flow improver during transfer I'll change paint's properties to the point that, after I add Glaze Medium, it will behave like wash or will deposit in large quantities on a surface (even after i wipe excess off the brush) making it not "glazeable". Watched Your video about paint additives and I think it should be fine but still worry a bit. Could You please tell me how Citadels behave in terms of glazing after transfering using flow improver? ;)
You may have to use a slightly different amount of glaze medium, but it should still work fine with just a drop or two of flow improver in there. That being said, make one test bottle and see how your ratios work out.
did you do it, did you test it out? I'm about to transfer mine and I'm not sure what to use. I bought flow improver, but have now been warned off using it, so I'm not sure what to do. apparently the airbrush medium is better.
Is there an advantage to using flow improver over something like Lahmian medium?
Yes, medium is just that - medium, it doesn't change the flow of the paint at all, because it's not a solvent or additive, it's the body. It is simply paint without pigment. Flow improver is an additive that breaks surface tension, changing the fundamental way that the paint flows so it flows more easily (hence moving to the new bottle easier). That all being said, you do need to be a little careful as to not add too much for sure.
@@VinceVenturella Thanks!
Hello Vince. I've wached several videos about transfering paints from GW to other pots, and I am super confused about what to add to the paint. Is it flow improver (which will break the surface tension of the medium and transform paints into washes) or a medium. Even airbrush medium? Thanks
One video talks about adding airbrush flow improver (even to paint with brush)
FLow Improver is just to get it moving, a few drops, you can certainly use airbrush flow improver.
Would it be useful to coat the pipette with surfactant to reduce the amount of paint sticking to it?
Well, after the first draw, you kind of get a good coating from the paint. So not much more sticks the side. That being said, it's an interesting idea.
@@VinceVenturella Worth a shot to try
I take it these tips would apply just the same to metallic paints? Would you use the thiner as with the base paints? Im relatively new to the hobby and am already finding my GW Metallics get very gunked up around the lid hinge despite being careful with them.
Great question, yes, though the metal paints are much thicker. As you are new, let me actually give you the best advice I can. DOn't use GW metal paints, don't use any other brands metal paints except Vallejo Metal Color (linked below). I usually don't make strong recommendations when it comes to paint, most of the time, brands are irrelevant, there is a difference though with metal paints.
I have a full video review on the channel if you want to check it out.
Here is the paint. Yes, it's more expensive, but it's also a LOT of paint and it will last you forever and it's shine, smoothness, opacity and effect are 10X the quality of any other acryllic metal paint on the market.
www.amazon.com/Vallejo-Aluminum-Metal-Color-Paint/dp/B012A93XL6/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=vallejo+metal+color&qid=1603596378&sr=8-1
@@VinceVenturella Thank you! I'll be sure to check this out and give it a go. Brilliant channel by the way, thanks for all the effort you put in to it, your videos have helped me a lot!
@@VinceVenturella I use there silvers and I have the copper, but the gold I have heard is not that good.
for gold, use silver and then dye it with acrylic ink. a mix of transparent burned sienna and yellow-orange, glazed over the top give a nice gold.
Would you recommend using a funnel vs Pipette
I use funnels and the pipettes. The funnels are easier, the key is just thinning it the right amount so you don’t thin it too much. You also have to hold the funnel up just a tad to allow airflow otherwise the funnel will not let the paint flow into the dropper bottle.
Either can work, I just prefer the pipette for the control. :)
I've been transferring mine lately and I noticed that the separation is happening very quickly between sessions. Shaking doesn't seem to get the job done well enough so I keep having to stir the bottles after fighting the nozzles off each time. Do you have the same experience or would you say that adding agitators would get the job done and make shaking the bottles easily mix the paint?
I add agitators for sure. I would say if you are seeing that, you might want to use a little less flow improver as well. The other option, if it separates, just skim a little off the top, don't shake it, use it to your advantage.
@@VinceVenturella I'll give it a shot. But I'm still surprised because I'm actually using less flow improver than you did in the video. And not adding the extra water either.
Quick question, I think I added too much Flow improver for some of my bottles and they are too watery, any clue how I can "dewater it" ?
Let them sit for some amount of time, don't shake them, the medium/improver will naturally separate out to the top. Use a pipette and siphon that off. Then mix after and you should be good to go.
What about adding to much water? Same thing or any advice on how to dethin that?
I'm curious what you hated about the first video?
I didn't like the hommade funnel, but what I like is how many people liked that - proof that I never know what I'm talking about. :)
On my Liquitex flow-aid it says on the bottle that I need to dilute it with 1 drop flow-aid to 20 drops of water before use. Do I really? :D Or can I just use it straight out of the pot?
You definitely want to dilute it, it will be way too powerful, you can do something like 10-1 if you want it a little stronger.
@@VinceVenturella Thanks for the answer :) I wish I asked before I transfered 70 bottles of paint xDDDD
Any tips on hardening resin? I have a large resin model that droops forwards over time.
You might be able to sit it outside in the sun for a few hours. Depending on the resin.
@@bencoomer2000 Its from Mierce miniatures. Not sure what resin they use. Also not much sun at the moment
Check out Marco NJM's most recent video, he has a little box you can make to help harden resin.
@@VinceVenturella thanks, ill check it out.
A tip for people that thinned there paints too much. If you leave them to settle for a while, they will separate on you. Normally you just give them a thorough shake, but in this case you get the opportunity to remove some of the extra moisture first.
It's a good point, that's why I only use a few drops of thinner just to get everything moving.
Is it safe to use vallejo airbrush thinner for the transfer process?
Absolutely.
Why didn't I see this a few hours earlier 😭
Sorry, clearly I should have moved the go-live time up. :)
Am I the only one that likes the pots. At least for the washes. (after gluing bases to the bottoms so I don't spill them all the time...)
I don't mind them for washes, but I don't like them for paints or anything I want to work from my palette for.
Hey Vince! This is one of the few times, that I disagree with your approach. I think that thinning the whole pot with Flow Improver sort of defeats the point of using GW Base-Paints. And while usually two thin coats is splendid, there are exceptions, and while it's always easy to dilute, it's basically impossible to intensify the Pigment-Density.
I've had success by ripping the whole Lid off - if you don't do that, it gets even more fiddly and awkward - and carefully pouring the viscous paint directly into the Dropper-Bottle. Then I scraped some of the paint with a mini-spoon-handle to get a bit more out, though a proper tool would certainly be better. And just then I went with diluting the rest. The Lid still fits on after being ripped, but while shaking be sure to hold them before going too ham - please don't ask how I found that out...
But well. Maybe, at some point in a brighter Utopian Future, GW will deliver their expensive product in useful containers...
Over 95% of the time most of us will be using some to thin down a base before we use it. The number of reasons why we would use it un-thinned is greatly dwarfed by the practicality of already having it slightly pre-thinned. Also the amount of flow-aid and water which he is showing us to use is less than 1ml, so in the case of using 1ml in a 12ml pot it is still well under a 8% dilution in the final total volume.
Indeed, the 8% dilution in Paint Pigmentation per volume isn't that relevant. But the Flow-Improver also lowers the Viscosity, thus limiting the actual thickness of paint-application, which is significant in some, rather rare, applications.
Also, if you're glazing, you're thinning much, much further anyhow.
All fair, for me, it's bringing it closer to the thinness I am generally using it at, so it's not a challenge. I have specific paints if I am wanting something highly opaque (and they aren't citadel), so for most other paints, I like it when they are more easily flowing. TO each their own on that of course. :)
@@guyfromtheinternet1432 how does the thinned mix work for dry brushing, please? I do a lot of smudging and stuff with artis opus brushes and require my paints to be able to be dry brushed.
@@D00M3R-SK8 I'm certainly no expert on drybrushing and I don't own Artis Opus brushes. But from what I've learned, controlling the moisture of your half-dry paint in the brush has really big impact, I would think that the minor loss in viscosity due to flow improvers plays second fiddle to that.
I still don't understand why GW doesn't move to droppers in the first place. Pots feel so archaic these days
Because they dry out. A deliberate error in design
$$$$ why when your paint can dry out faster and force you buy more?
They don't care about that.
1. They sell you the least amount of paint from hobby brands. You get over 40% more paint in a normal Vallejo, Scale75, Army Painter etc. (which all even cost less money) dropper bottle than you get in GW pot. If they would switch to same kind of bottle, the size difference is clearly visible.
2. They try to differentiate from other hobby brands with their pots.
3. Those pots are designed to dry out over time, so people but more of their overpriced crappy little pots.
@@Crs9072 fair enough. I don't use citadel, except for some technical and and a few contrast bc of the pots.
It's a mystery, I think the majority wish they would change. :)
Why not a funnel and pour?
That's what I did the first time and everyone hated it. :)
Every time i do this after some time the tips oft my dropper bottles get a little crack.
Any idea what causes this, or how i can prevent this?
Probably overtightening the cap, or the tips are just cheap. I just keep spares around
Yeah, some of the caps are really cheap plastic and crack pretty easy with pressure. If you get the ones with the black caps, they don't tend to crack as much, but you can also just drop some thick glue or someting in there and the cap will be fine.
Are the pipettes one use only or do you clean them in between transfers?
I've tried using pipettes before and they always get a bunch of pigment stuck up in them that i cant remove no matter what
It depends on whether you use cheap throw away pipettes or if you spend the little bit extra for laboratory grade... like $10 for two
Or you know use a funnel.
I would recommend just using funnels. Use the pipettes for the flow improver and I’d also recommend a medium as well.
In general, you can resuse them several times, eventually you will need to change them, but they come in packs of like 100.
what not use a small funnel verses pipette
You certainly could, I have just found the pipette easier, but certainly either are valid.
I have never heard anyone say they like the gw pots yet they make no effort to change them. That leaves me to believe they hope your paints dry out so you can buy more. Shiiiiisty
I think they just have a loyal fan base of them now, but I don't get. :)
2:55 ooohhh please secure that pot with some clay or bluetac on to your desk!!! For heavens sake just look at that thing going all crazy. Pro tip......
I like to live dangerously. ;)
Why the balls wont GW just start selling their paints in dropper bottles?!
Tradition I suspect, but who can say.
I was told that it's mostly brand recognition. When you see their pots, you know the brand right away.
you didnt link the dropper bottles :(
THe exact ones I bought weren't available anymore, but anything on ebay that is plastic dropper bottles will work (that's the challenge with this stuff on ebay, it changes all the time). Here is an example - www.ebay.com/itm/20pcs-10ml-20ml-Empty-Plastic-Squeezable-Dropper-Bottles-Eye-Liquid-Droppers/333355984469?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20180816085401%26meid%3D0e6e322250604003af344ad4efec3fbd%26pid%3D100970%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26mehot%3Dnone%26sd%3D333355984469%26itm%3D333355984469%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2380057%26brand%3DUnbranded&_trksid=p2380057.c100970.m5481&_trkparms=pageci%3Ae120bcc5-1927-11eb-a6f8-c2037f68d245%7Cparentrq%3A6f8f4c611750a77d33832b5efffef53a%7Ciid%3A1
Got em do you put marbles or anything inside?
@@HurtPower I usually break up old pewter figs and put little pieces inside (as they can't rust), that being said, yes, some agitator (glass bead, whatever) is a good idea.
Pretty sure it's a waste using the pipette. Just pour it...
Completely fair.
There is much easier way: don’t use GW paints. There are a lot great paints in dropper bottles.
This is the first hobby cheating video that is useless to me :) Why waste time transfering paint? There are so many alternatives to GW paints now.
@@juliethibault9940 Al lot of us started with GW paints before we knew better. Also, like Vince said in another video, some GW paints have shades or properties that aren't there in other lines. I think he said he liked Abaddon black because it has a nice satin finish.
I have some from days back and I don’t want to waste them that’s why I’ve transferred mine and some of the colors aren’t too bad and are actually pretty good, but I do prefer my scale75 over my other paints.
Lots of people answered below, but yes, I don't love GW paints, and I only have a few, but others might only have access in their areas to these paints, or might have bought a bunch when they started the hobby and not want to waste all of that paint. :) Want to make sure we take care of everyone. :)
GW paints are the most readily available paints in any hobby store, at least in my area. Just got a place that now sells Vallejo range but they don't keep the racks stocked so always missing colors.
I own a ton of GW paints and i really like some of the colors. Incubi Darkess, Bugmans Glow, Averland Sunset, Mephiston Red, a bunch of their greens and blues. There's a lot of good solid colors in the range. Their washes and tech paints are also very good.
I also find Vallejo (model color) to be excessively thick out of the pot and more difficult to work with. YMMV