Great Guide! Very cheap and powerful mod as well. Once again great job! And for those wondering I did this mod using the guide and it came out fantastic!
1-Remove air restrictor and ball stopped assembly. These are both above the spring and plunger in the receiver area behind the breach. (go to 2:20 for additional help) a-The AR piece will be easy to pull out. b-The ball stopper piece will require some needle nose pliers and a flat head screwdriver; it's glued in, but by gently, slowly prying on the side, it should slowly lose tension. This piece will take a few minutes to get out, so be patient. c-The previous steps are important to upgrading the performance of the weapon, so be careful. 2-Take out the barrel assembly. (go to 3:28 for additional help.) There is a small ‘slide’ piece that runs along the bottom area of the barrel. Within that ‘slide’ piece is a ‘T’ shaped stopper that prevents the slide from going further forward. a-Use a Dremel tool to slowly sand it out. *Note:* There’s a plastic piece behind that ‘T.’ Don’t Dremel it out, as you need it to stop the slide; it will just allow for the extra ½ inch you need to get a half length dart in. 3-At this point, you will need 2 brass tubes (listed below) of different width. Try to get a foot or so if you can, so you’ll have as much as you could possibly need for the project. a-9/16” by 12” b-17/32 by 12” c-These tubes will cost ~10 bucks 4-Put the 17/32” brass tube into the AR/Plunger assembly in order to make markings about where you’ll need to cut the brass breech for the purpose of inserting half-length darts. a-It’s worth noting that you may want to leave a small amount of the brass tubing for if you want to add a faux barrel later on. b-Cut the breech opening before you do the next step 5-Get some electrical tape, and you’ll want to make ~10 wraps, depending on the thickness of your tape. The idea is basically just to help make a seal in the plunger so the barrel isn’t loose. Every few wraps, try to line up the end of the barrel with the front of the plunger tube to gauge how many more layers you’ll need. a-If you have some thick Gorilla Glue, that can help to ensure that the end of the brass tube sticks onto the front of the plunger tube. 6-Get your 9/16” brass tube and cut it down to four inches or so. Then put a 1” thick piece of PVC and tape and glue that to the front of the brass tube, and then wrap *that* in electrical tape and gorilla glue, so that it kind of ‘seals’ into the front of the orange moving barrel of the knockout. (see 7:16 for additional info) a-It is a good idea to lube the front outside of the 17/32” tube just a little bit, so that the 9/16” brass tube attached to the barrel will slide smoothly back and forth. b-The PVC is optional, but it does strengthen the front, as you don’t have four inches of tape holding your breech together. 7-As a step to ensure smooth operation, take your needle nose pliers, and insert them into the back of your 9/16” brass tube, and spin the tube around, rubbing them along the pliers to remove any burrs. (see 8:04 for more details)
cant get the slide to pul forward without wearing out springs or it not being able to lock back
Do u sell the blue one u showed with that black thing on the front?
They are all made to order, so any color combo is available
@@xfoxgames ok do u have a link
@@v2capa938 lookup xfoxgames on Etsy :)
Great Guide! Very cheap and powerful mod as well. Once again great job!
And for those wondering I did this mod using the guide and it came out fantastic!
Thanks!
If I wanted u to do and if u do it how much would u charge
Check out Etsy store, we sell completely done blasters
@@xfoxgames oh great
How do you have so few views with so many subs?
Edit: Good video by the way.
Was a lego channel then I switched to nerf so.... yeah
@@xfoxgames you were also a gamer right?
@@Vet_Gamer yeah
how do I get the suppressor that is on the blue knockout
Those are from almonds, but you need to buy there kit cause it needs and adapter
1-Remove air restrictor and ball stopped assembly. These are both above the spring and plunger in the receiver area behind the breach. (go to 2:20 for additional help)
a-The AR piece will be easy to pull out.
b-The ball stopper piece will require some needle nose pliers and a flat head screwdriver; it's glued in, but by gently, slowly prying on the side, it should slowly lose tension. This piece will take a few minutes to get out, so be patient.
c-The previous steps are important to upgrading the performance of the weapon, so be careful.
2-Take out the barrel assembly. (go to 3:28 for additional help.) There is a small ‘slide’ piece that runs along the bottom area of the barrel. Within that ‘slide’ piece is a ‘T’ shaped stopper that prevents the slide from going further forward.
a-Use a Dremel tool to slowly sand it out. *Note:* There’s a plastic piece behind that ‘T.’ Don’t Dremel it out, as you need it to stop the slide; it will just allow for the extra ½ inch you need to get a half length dart in.
3-At this point, you will need 2 brass tubes (listed below) of different width. Try to get a foot or so if you can, so you’ll have as much as you could possibly need for the project.
a-9/16” by 12”
b-17/32 by 12”
c-These tubes will cost ~10 bucks
4-Put the 17/32” brass tube into the AR/Plunger assembly in order to make markings about where you’ll need to cut the brass breech for the purpose of inserting half-length darts.
a-It’s worth noting that you may want to leave a small amount of the brass tubing for if you want to add a faux barrel later on.
b-Cut the breech opening before you do the next step
5-Get some electrical tape, and you’ll want to make ~10 wraps, depending on the thickness of your tape. The idea is basically just to help make a seal in the plunger so the barrel isn’t loose. Every few wraps, try to line up the end of the barrel with the front of the plunger tube to gauge how many more layers you’ll need.
a-If you have some thick Gorilla Glue, that can help to ensure that the end of the brass tube sticks onto the front of the plunger tube.
6-Get your 9/16” brass tube and cut it down to four inches or so. Then put a 1” thick piece of PVC and tape and glue that to the front of the brass tube, and then wrap *that* in electrical tape and gorilla glue, so that it kind of ‘seals’ into the front of the orange moving barrel of the knockout. (see 7:16 for additional info)
a-It is a good idea to lube the front outside of the 17/32” tube just a little bit, so that the 9/16” brass tube attached to the barrel will slide smoothly back and forth.
b-The PVC is optional, but it does strengthen the front, as you don’t have four inches of tape holding your breech together.
7-As a step to ensure smooth operation, take your needle nose pliers, and insert them into the back of your 9/16” brass tube, and spin the tube around, rubbing them along the pliers to remove any burrs. (see 8:04 for more details)
What kinda brass is that smooth I’m confused
You buy the 1 foot sections, and they are teleacopic tubes so they slide easy
XFoxGames where is a good place to buy those
@@Gman76257 amazon was the only place, i looked local but couldnt find them
@@Gman76257 hobby stores, if your town has one
John James ok
Ace Hardware has the brass. Not all of them carry it in store. About $4
The breech inside your blue knockout looks like its professionally cut? - Is this the AK breech ?
Yeah, but almost no need to buy them
Where do I get the small darts
Anywhere really, amazon is a good start
Ok thanks
How long do they have to be
Man I removed my air restrictor. Didnt do much. Maybe my knockout was a dud
Yeah wont do to much, maybe a tad more of not much
When is the LEGO giveaway? It’s been over a month? Is it just cancelled!?
we were going to do a complete another channel for the LEGO giveaways, just taking time to get up running
The one tube on amazon will be at my house in 2 days, the other in 1 month....... what?!
Wow
@@xfoxgames Darn corona, maybe home depot sells them
@@scottmacdonald7667 I tried,.and they didnt have them