This is extremely helpful, I stumbled into darktable because I didn't want to pay for Lightroom, I'vebeen using darktable for like 3 years and I am just now learning how to properly use it. You provide the bite-sized tutorials I need, thanks for your work!
Thank you for these clear and easy to follow videos. You strike a good balance between going too slowly / basically and going too fast without verbalizing your thought process.
Interesting separation with the mask curves. The Tooltipp says "you usually don't have to change this" but gonna ignore this after watching your application. Thank you!!
Re: Colour balance RGB - adjusting the Hue 'it's sensitive so use small steps' . If you right-click the slider arrow then move to the foot of the window, it enables extremely fine adjustments. A very comprehensive treatise, very well explained and demonstrated. I will download this and the previous two to study in depth. Many thanks. I have subscribed.
Thanks! What I had in mind when saying that the slider is sensitive, that a lot of change happens with a small movement. CTRL+Scroll does a great job in changing the value in small increments.
@@StudioPetrikas Hello, I tried to reproduce the procedure on a similar photo, but not easy at all, would it be possible to upload your photo on a link, thank you in advance. Cordially.
Pipeline! Remember, that modules in Darktable are processed from the bottom up. Filmic is a notable point in the pipeline, as it is what forms an image that can be properly displayed on your monitor. Therefore, there's a difference between "colour balance rgb" being below "filmic rgb" (called pre-formation), and above "filmic rgb" (called post-formation). When you apply adjustments to pre-formation, you are likely applying the changes to linear (uniform) or log data. When you apply adjustments post-formation, you are making changes to an image that is already formed (great for tinting, or "adding" different effects). In Part 2, I've added a bit of "warmth" to the otherwise neutrally bleached areas, that's why I called that "Painting". I've "added" colour "on top" of my already formed image (post-formation). Hope that helps!
Impressive tools and knowledge. As an interested amateur I imagine what it will take to try to reach your level of expertise - and how many hours I would use to make even simple editing less than optimal in this app. What is the golden path for incremental learning without making too many errors with all these unknown tools?
I think you're giving me too much credit! Thank you for the kind words. The golden path, as you put it, is a bit of reading and a lot of experimenting. Don't be afraid to break things and experiment with each module. Regarding reading, I very strongly recommend hg2dc.com/. Start with Question #1 (Not Questions to the Editor #1), and traverse through the questions. These are very short posts, but the density of information is unparalleled. If you get though to Question #29, you will find that everything in Darktable becomes more or less self-explanatory. For some additional reading, Darktable has a stellar user manual. You can find detailed descriptions of every module, including a bit of colour science. I refer to the manual A LOT when I make these videos, it's truly a great source of information. docs.darktable.org/usermanual/4.0/en/ Hope this helps, good luck in your journey!
@@StudioPetrikas Thank you, and for the links too. Having read Question #1 I would very much like to know, who the person behind the questions is. I am not inspired by anonymity. Do you know him/her? James Sobotka? Which one?
@@Eigil_Skovgaard Troy Sobotka. He is the person behind Filmic for Blender, AgX and the inspiration for the Filmic module in Darktable. If you google anything related to colour science, you will find that name pretty prominent across the communities.
@@StudioPetrikas Thank you. Philosophical and academic presentations as in 1-29 are not always creating new disciples. I am somewhat motivated as an old zone system photographer, but decades ago I was unexpectedly targeted on a bird watcher photo site for presenting the graphics for the rgb and raw processes through a digital camera, claiming "extensive manipulation" - as opposed to the ruling position "the true colors of the sunset have not been changed". Need no answer, just wanted to point at the reaction to Giordano Bruno's thesis up to 1600 (beyond comparison of course).
Quite a bit. Especially "R&Darktable". It's unafraid to displease it user base in exchange for the ability to produce a better image and have more control of the process. It's able to keep up with the latest developments in colour science and also has a very strong, educated lead developer that understands colour and image processes better than 99.9% of the user base. Compared to Darktable, Lightroom is a mobile app that applies cute filters.
@@StudioPetrikas seriously you think DT is that powerful ? That's good to know. I admid I am not that knowledgeable I'm photo editing - I mainly use iPhone or Google photo dials 😂 I wish I would know more - recently I got into Google Camera for Android and it is like a photo processing engine on steroids
@@cekuhnen I'd recommend watching this th-cam.com/video/bTQMKvpDTYU/w-d-xo.html This is really important to know for every person that is able to run a camera app on their phone.
Thanks! In my testing, I've found that 'maxRGB' preservation method introduces too many weird artifacts. When using 'maxRGB', you're also losing the 'brightness' feeling produced by the relationship of luminance (""""brightness"""") and chromaticity purity ("""colourfulness"""), that is so prominent in film photography, and has a huge impact on how we perceive the images. We are sacrificing the precision of our colours, but, as you have seen in my video, I have no problem in adjusting hues for creative effect. It's only because I have the freedom to do so. If I had to do work for a client that requires absolute colour precision, I would likely try "maxRGB" and try to work around its shortcomings. Rule-of-thumb advice: always listen to what Aurélien is saying first. He made the the tools, he's done a lot of research AND coding. He has an excellent grip on colour and photography. He is right 99% of the times.
@@StudioPetrikas Hi. No worries. Really useful vids. I see your point. A decent heuristic will save a lot of work, and in practice result in similar or better output many times. Always trade offs with efficiency and purity. Thanks
@@StudioPetrikas Could it be that part of the answer to the question of @Tony Barrett is how you expose your photos? That is, were these intentionally shot with badly blown out highlights to demonstrate the highlight reconstruction of filmic, or do you maybe typically expose like or close to like that? Myself, I do expose for the highlights (I have the zebras in my camera setup to match darktables RAW clipping indicators) and thus have to deal with much less reconstruction, which ends up being more of a fine tuning for my own pixel peeping on the actual sun itself in a sunset photo.
@@elho001 There's actually very little actual sensor clipping going on in this image. I too expose for the highlights, but while shooting directly at the sun, one has to compromise. As mentioned in the video, I don't use any preservation methods, as they cause more harm than good for the way I want my photos to look.
Definitely Darktable is not a program for simple and fast photo editing. Who is this program for? After all, an amateur photographer is not going to spend days on a single photo?
I would say that Darktable is for Photography hobbyists or professionals that prioritise quality over quantity and want to have full control of their image making.
Have you used it? It's also extremely good for simple and fast photo editing. You can dive as deep as you want, but you can also just zoom through a hundred photos and adjust exposure to your liking.
![[Darktable] Broken 'Pink' highlights and how to fix them](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/z-zVMHKTBBY/mqdefault.jpg)
![[Darktable] Broken 'Pink' highlights and how to fix them](/img/tr.png)
![[Darktable] Basics: Developing a photo from start to finish & filmic rgb](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/SiWBZ3FOMo8/mqdefault.jpg)
![[Darktable 4.0] "Filmic rgb" and reconstructing an overexposed photo. Part 2.](/img/n.gif)
I actually understand filmic better now. Thank you for helping us. It makes a difference!
Thanks for such a lovely comment! This gives me some courage to continue making these.
This is extremely helpful, I stumbled into darktable because I didn't want to pay for Lightroom, I'vebeen using darktable for like 3 years and I am just now learning how to properly use it. You provide the bite-sized tutorials I need, thanks for your work!
Thank you for these clear and easy to follow videos. You strike a good balance between going too slowly / basically and going too fast without verbalizing your thought process.
Interesting separation with the mask curves. The Tooltipp says "you usually don't have to change this" but gonna ignore this after watching your application. Thank you!!
Awesome explanations and impressive results, love your videos for darktable
Thanks! Glad you found them useful.
Thats a nice approach to reveal what's in this module's hood. Thank for the lessons.
Thanks for this series! I learned a lot and it was fun!
what great help your tutorials are, thank you
Very glad to hear that, thank you so much for letting me know!
Re: Colour balance RGB - adjusting the Hue 'it's sensitive so use small steps' . If you right-click the slider arrow then move to the foot of the window, it enables extremely fine adjustments.
A very comprehensive treatise, very well explained and demonstrated. I will download this and the previous two to study in depth. Many thanks. I have subscribed.
Thanks! What I had in mind when saying that the slider is sensitive, that a lot of change happens with a small movement. CTRL+Scroll does a great job in changing the value in small increments.
Thank you, your videos are very helpful; excellent explanations.
Thank you, this was very helpful regarding the Filmic RGB module.
Thank you! Awesome tutorials
Very good serie, thank you very much, it remains only to try and succeed;)
Practice is super important in getting comfortable in this workflow. Glad you found the series useful!
@@StudioPetrikas Hello, I tried to reproduce the procedure on a similar photo, but not easy at all, would it be possible to upload your photo on a link, thank you in advance. Cordially.
@@francois237 Sure! we.tl/t-RacLjFcEdc
I've included the sidecar file, so all settings done in the video should load. Good luck!
@@StudioPetrikas Many thank's
Good description, easy to follow. Thanks. 🇳🇿
2:23 *applause*
Love this! Why didn´t you push the color balance rgb modules above the filmic rgb module like in Part 2?
Pipeline! Remember, that modules in Darktable are processed from the bottom up. Filmic is a notable point in the pipeline, as it is what forms an image that can be properly displayed on your monitor. Therefore, there's a difference between "colour balance rgb" being below "filmic rgb" (called pre-formation), and above "filmic rgb" (called post-formation).
When you apply adjustments to pre-formation, you are likely applying the changes to linear (uniform) or log data. When you apply adjustments post-formation, you are making changes to an image that is already formed (great for tinting, or "adding" different effects).
In Part 2, I've added a bit of "warmth" to the otherwise neutrally bleached areas, that's why I called that "Painting". I've "added" colour "on top" of my already formed image (post-formation).
Hope that helps!
Thanks for the knowledge, cheers!
Very informative, thank you.
Impressive tools and knowledge. As an interested amateur I imagine what it will take to try to reach your level of expertise - and how many hours I would use to make even simple editing less than optimal in this app. What is the golden path for incremental learning without making too many errors with all these unknown tools?
I think you're giving me too much credit! Thank you for the kind words.
The golden path, as you put it, is a bit of reading and a lot of experimenting. Don't be afraid to break things and experiment with each module.
Regarding reading, I very strongly recommend hg2dc.com/. Start with Question #1 (Not Questions to the Editor #1), and traverse through the questions. These are very short posts, but the density of information is unparalleled. If you get though to Question #29, you will find that everything in Darktable becomes more or less self-explanatory.
For some additional reading, Darktable has a stellar user manual. You can find detailed descriptions of every module, including a bit of colour science. I refer to the manual A LOT when I make these videos, it's truly a great source of information. docs.darktable.org/usermanual/4.0/en/
Hope this helps, good luck in your journey!
@@StudioPetrikas Thank you, and for the links too. Having read Question #1 I would very much like to know, who the person behind the questions is. I am not inspired by anonymity. Do you know him/her? James Sobotka? Which one?
@@Eigil_Skovgaard Troy Sobotka. He is the person behind Filmic for Blender, AgX and the inspiration for the Filmic module in Darktable.
If you google anything related to colour science, you will find that name pretty prominent across the communities.
@@StudioPetrikas Thank you. Philosophical and academic presentations as in 1-29 are not always creating new disciples. I am somewhat motivated as an old zone system photographer, but decades ago I was unexpectedly targeted on a bird watcher photo site for presenting the graphics for the rgb and raw processes through a digital camera, claiming "extensive manipulation" - as opposed to the ruling position "the true colors of the sunset have not been changed". Need no answer, just wanted to point at the reaction to Giordano Bruno's thesis up to 1600 (beyond comparison of course).
it is interesting and maybe insightful for advanced dt users. too complicated for me
You like Darktable ?
Quite a bit.
Especially "R&Darktable". It's unafraid to displease it user base in exchange for the ability to produce a better image and have more control of the process.
It's able to keep up with the latest developments in colour science and also has a very strong, educated lead developer that understands colour and image processes better than 99.9% of the user base.
Compared to Darktable, Lightroom is a mobile app that applies cute filters.
@@StudioPetrikas seriously you think DT is that powerful ? That's good to know.
I admid I am not that knowledgeable I'm photo editing - I mainly use iPhone or Google photo dials 😂
I wish I would know more - recently I got into Google Camera for Android and it is like a photo processing engine on steroids
@@cekuhnen I'd recommend watching this th-cam.com/video/bTQMKvpDTYU/w-d-xo.html
This is really important to know for every person that is able to run a camera app on their phone.
Another v. nice video. Why don’t you like the maintain chrominance default? I haven’t used v6 yet but saw Aurelien’s explanation
Thanks!
In my testing, I've found that 'maxRGB' preservation method introduces too many weird artifacts. When using 'maxRGB', you're also losing the 'brightness' feeling produced by the relationship of luminance (""""brightness"""") and chromaticity purity ("""colourfulness"""), that is so prominent in film photography, and has a huge impact on how we perceive the images. We are sacrificing the precision of our colours, but, as you have seen in my video, I have no problem in adjusting hues for creative effect. It's only because I have the freedom to do so. If I had to do work for a client that requires absolute colour precision, I would likely try "maxRGB" and try to work around its shortcomings.
Rule-of-thumb advice: always listen to what Aurélien is saying first. He made the the tools, he's done a lot of research AND coding. He has an excellent grip on colour and photography. He is right 99% of the times.
@@StudioPetrikas Hi. No worries. Really useful vids. I see your point. A decent heuristic will save a lot of work, and in practice result in similar or better output many times. Always trade offs with efficiency and purity. Thanks
@@StudioPetrikas Could it be that part of the answer to the question of @Tony Barrett is how you expose your photos? That is, were these intentionally shot with badly blown out highlights to demonstrate the highlight reconstruction of filmic, or do you maybe typically expose like or close to like that?
Myself, I do expose for the highlights (I have the zebras in my camera setup to match darktables RAW clipping indicators) and thus have to deal with much less reconstruction, which ends up being more of a fine tuning for my own pixel peeping on the actual sun itself in a sunset photo.
@@elho001 There's actually very little actual sensor clipping going on in this image. I too expose for the highlights, but while shooting directly at the sun, one has to compromise.
As mentioned in the video, I don't use any preservation methods, as they cause more harm than good for the way I want my photos to look.
Definitely Darktable is not a program for simple and fast photo editing. Who is this program for? After all, an amateur photographer is not going to spend days on a single photo?
I would say that Darktable is for Photography hobbyists or professionals that prioritise quality over quantity and want to have full control of their image making.
Have you used it? It's also extremely good for simple and fast photo editing. You can dive as deep as you want, but you can also just zoom through a hundred photos and adjust exposure to your liking.