Especially since I've only passed my exam and haven't driven since, you are a very nice person to listen to in order to get a bit more confidence and a bit of good advice. Greetings from Russia.
Ive been watching u a long time I wish u were around me I am a driver of 3 years but I am a nervous driver due to a bad instructor he was retiring and only learned me 3 routes that the examiner uses and certain manovers just to get me to pass my test fast . I relyed on him telling me what to do and he used to shout when I made little mistakes so never had experience on new roads and got super anxious to make little mistakes now even 3 years later only stick to what I no never go anywhere new and I especially worry about going somewhere that I don't know about parking as I'm not confident parking next to cars as I never learned proply and I am nervous I love your videos as it helps me know what I missed but ur amazing and have so much patience for ppl and the way you explain things is great. I so wish I could drive like everyone else and someone like u would help so much xx
I'm sorry to hear that, it can be daunting but the way I look at it is what's the worse that can happen? Someone may shout at you or you may even scratch your car parking, but I guess you're more competent than you believe and I would argue that your freedom is more important than the possibility of upsetting someone or having to take a few attempts at parking. We all feel the pressure, the key is to try and not let it get the better of you. Easier said than done but the more you try to do it the easier it becomes and the longer you leave it the harder it becomes. Drive someone nice and focus on what you enjoyed about the experience, forget about the problems.
5:04 “Of course you don’t want to learn like that, because if you learn to do it like that, what are you gonna do in a car that doesn’t do that?” Stalling, Richard, all the time :( But thanks for these video’s! They are so helpful!
I didn’t know what turbo car was and my accelerator didn’t pick up quickly. Thanks for explaining the mechanics. Really helpful.. definitely the best Channel out there!
coming back to this video again after buying a car with a port-injected engine and a mechanical throttle body as my first car, lets hope i wont have to move off at 3000 rpm again. Amazing video!
I've got a Hyundai i10 1.2L petrol and I have that problem with the sensitive gas pedal and it is incredibly hard to control and therefore rev match... I've driven 2 other petrol cars and they are absolute bliss to drive because the gas does what I want it to! The i10 is my first car and I've been learning in it for the majority and I've always thought that maybe it's something I'm doing wrong that is causing the problem but now I believe it must be due to a port injected engine. Great vid once again Richard!
Nice video, thank you - made me think as well. Maybe it is not just the engine, but how the throttle pedal 'is' (mechanically controlling the input, or through an electronic signature/circuit). Nevertheless; when in a new/unfamiliar car, it is wise to not just push the pedal to the metal, lest the driver may be in for a surprise.
For example of what he's on about at 9:00 on insurance, I have a 2011 ford mondeo as my first car which is a 2.0 tdci with 163bhp and I paid around the same as I would have for a 1.4 fiesta or corsa so this is very true and will be different for everyone. Was at age 17 now 18 still in my first year.
This video made me feel a lot better about myself! I practice on a 2007 Toyota Auris 1.4 petrol, which uses MPI (which is apparently the same as port injection) and it is literally impossible to get anything under 2000rpm (I even tried using my hand with my foot on the clutch and it was impossible!). This makes Hill starts really hard because it is a pretty under powered engine with no torque already and couple that with the high clutch and overly sensitive gas pedal and I have a really hard time! So most hill starts happen at 3000rpm but now and again even 4000 if it is a really steep hill.
Thank you for clearing things up, especially with Miata, we have her but I didn't drive after I got a licence, and now I'm relearning and a bit struggling/not understanding what's going on. Especially since my instructor has automatic, and I assume turbo or something because its gas pedal is just non responsive and then shoots - so I guess it's turbo. Your videos and explanations help tremendously, thank you! I'll definitely try to practice 'coin thickness movement'. I mean I can go from point A to B in immediate neighbourhood but I feel embarassed by how much little one can jump when I mess up my movements, I think everyone outside sees it and I'm not doing her any honor :D She is after all, meant to be driven smoothly and not jerky :) But oh boy, what joy she already is, in speeds around schickane type slowing down where in my instructor car I felt totally nervous (coming with 40 and braking to 25 kmh), in Miata I happily go 40 and say weeeee :D She's definitely made for curves :)
I recently bought a Honda ep3 and it seems like the high rev engine really does make smooth driving/starts more difficult because of rev drops and fast acceleration in first two gears. Very fun car, though. Thank you for the video.
I learned how to drive stick in a 2009 Impreza WRX. Yeah, that one with the old fashioned EJ255 2.5L port injected petrol turbo with a 5 speed. Not exactly the easiest car to learn with.
Sir, In India the biggest problem is how to judge in between the driver's sitting position and the front bonette of the car as mostly in city areas roads r overcrowded prompting to have a bumper to bumper driving situation. Can u make an elaborate video on judging the bonette?
I have already made this video for judging distance when parking. As for getting bumper to bumper when driving in traffic my advice would be to not go closer than you can judge. If you're finding it difficult to judge then you are way too close. But I understand driving in India is hard.
with the acceleration with a turbo (at just under 30mph in fourth gear) i tend to floor it suddenly then gradually come off the gas, which seems to work fairly well as it’s not jerky, the turbo seems to smooth it out a bit
I had a mock driving test yesterday, and failed with only minors, and all minors were because of Accelerator speed. It was a different car than normal. And pedals were incredibly light / took time for engine speed to kick in, but when it did, I was flying, leading to doing real quick manuevers and steering quick, or speeding up too quick into hazards. Then compensating this, I was going too slow when picking up speed. Still a good drive, got more than a month to fix my gas use.
With throttles being electronic these days, it all comes down to how the manufacturer has tuned it.. (same with turbodiesels) On my elec throttle car, the throttle opens more at lower rpm (making the engine feel more torque-y than it normally would be) and opens less at higher RPM, (making gears run out quicker, coaxing you into upshifting nice and early to get good fuel economy)... This was back in 2007 (and introduced 2004.. quite early). The lowest throttle position is a bit annoying, hard to go from "slowing down" to "i want full engine braking as if i'm changing up gear" in traffic.. but this is all down to software and I think because back then the throttle pedal sensor doesn't have much 'resolution'... maybe only 64 steps... not many when you are using only 5% ish of the pedal! Newer cars are more likely to have higher resolution sensors, and be smoother. LIke you said, best way to find out if you like it, is to test drive it... Seems like that panda is trying too hard to feel like a bigger engine by giving a big boost in throttle when you let the clutch out on a medium-fast start
The sensors don't have steps and are normally voltage based. For example a throttle position sensor is a potentiometer which may read from 1-5 volts but it's measured down to one hundredth or even one thousandth of a volt. So plenty of steps there. It's the mapping that's often the problem, I fitted a new aftermarket ECU to my old VX220 in 2018 and it was mapped in 0.4% increments of throttle, sometimes if the throttle was just right it would flick between 0.4-0.8% causing the car to jerk. Another problem was getting the throttle to close completely, it's such a tiny movement between 0% and 0.4% that sometimes it would stay on 0.4% if you come off the gas gently, a throttle blip would slam it shut and sort the problem. More modern cars use mass air flow sensors combined with throttle positioning sensors which are much more reliable. All engines will give the majority of their power in the first half travel of throttle, it's actually what makes controlling a car difficult, the first 5% of throttle travel will give like 20% power or something. More recent designs have reduced this with electronic fly by wire throttle bodies opening less compared to how much you press the gas and closing slowly even if you come off the gas quickly (rev hang). This also helps emissions as the ecu has more time to change injector open length to keep a good air fuel ratio. Try driving an early efi car in first gear, a little gas shoots you forward and a little less gas jerks the car as you slow down suddenly. Most cars in the last 10 years have actually been smooth, even in first gear, but there is a delay to your inputs as a result. They have also got better at positioning the throttle body and designing the positive crankcase ventilation system to stop oily deposits forming on the throttle body and disrupting airflow. I later worked out that the panda blipped the throttle whenever it got to 5mph, I rolled it down a hill in neutral and saw it blip the gas at 5mph. What a stupid design.
Now I just feel glad I've only ever driven Naturally aspirated cars. The car you said that revs to 2k instantly or nothing at all sounds like my Honda 😅 It will also rev to 4k just like the MX5 even though it's such a big car.
Direct injection seems the mainstream in recent modern cars, especially some "smart cars" and hybrid cars, which majorly comes with computer controlled direct injection, multipoint injection, with auxiliary port injection. So the car system could calculate and decide if fully use all I4 cylinders or only 2 of them for electricity charging only. Anyway, what I heard and know is that direct injection (as major) tend to deposit fuel burning residue (we usually just call it "carbon" or "charcoal powder" in slang other than English) more easily. Thus I was taught that if you drive a car with direct injection, you're recommended to apply some fuel additive into your gas tank for cleaning up your fuel system, engine, intake system, injectors and exhaust system (especially catalytic converter) sometimes, before anything is already completely stuck. Redex Petrol/Diesel System Cleaner seems quite mainstream from all drivers I know. You can buy it from the most supermarkets in UK easily. Only half of a 250ml bottle into your tank of fuel is an usual dose. It will do its own work automatically while you just use your tank of fuel. You may even apply a full 250ml bottle if you think the problem is harsh which like 60% to 80% stuck. Very easy to use no matter professional drivers or even learners. It will restore all your injection, intake and exhaust amount, as well as your engine power. Emission will decrease after fully using your dose. The down side will be heavy emission while your dose is right being in use at the moment. Your car will become a smoke bomb. Everybody far away can still see your car smoke. And you will smell a strong barbecue charcoal burning smell, you could even smell it inside your car, as the "carbon" is being cleaned away from your car. And determining when to use is a little bit challenging, you'll need to have a little experience in using cars, since it's unlikely good to apply it too frequently. Someone told me to use before and after winter, and after snowing days, as heavy water condensing inside the engine system may mix into the "carbon powder" which become "carbon soil". It'll be the toughest residue to be cleaned which might even likely make your engine warning light on.
@@ConquerDriving Wow! £300 once. Perhaps I'm not as vehicle professional as you. I think I'll still stay in the way both a bit cheaper and less complicated. 😂 I just want it easier and less thing I have to do, as long as working on it before they're 100% completely blocked. I get my patience with waiting for 1 to 3 tank of 45L fuel with additive doing its job, gradually. Guess I'll apply it at least twice a year - before winter and after winter. I don't worry about summer carbon that much, all I worry about is carbon mixed with winter snow, frost, heavy condensing inside, become carbon cement, I'll get a hell to pay (so additional dose after snow and below zero). But I get a question, do you think it might possibly change total viscosity inside your engine system, at least a little bit for a while? However I agree what you said, carbon and deposit accumulated inside engine systems always make my engine lose some power and hesitate. I got such experience, especially in a hybrid car. You know hybrid system first accelerates with electricity, then gas engine kicks in. I had ever felt that lag between electric traction and engine traction, quite jerky. Engine was so slow to start kicking in. But then all these things gone, in just a week right after that tank of additive fuel starting in use. Yes some manufacturers are quite prone to understating some data. Not limited to western makes, but Japanese and Korean sometimes. Toyota stated Auris hybrid top speed 112mph, but most of my friend told me "Bullsh*t! So many illegal night car racings in HK running their Auris hybrid faster than 240kph! Has it counted power mode already? I bet no!" Yes it indeed speeds up to 90mph unconsciously sometimes (speeding I know) even without power mode on and "tachometer" even wasn't pointing in "power" section. My old Prius was far weaker than such power, still a little bit hard to climb up to 70mph for entering motorway, even already with power mode on. Similar cases in electric things. Most British made and other European made machines like amplifiers, usually understated their power output, their power units can handle usually 2 to 4 times more than they state. But this never happened in Chinese things, I'm so sorry have to say. Chinese things only overstate, but never understate or even just be honest. While a Chinese amplifier states 200w output, usually just means 20w actually.
@@ConquerDriving But CRC, such a familiar name. Never thought you are also a CRC user! :D I mostly use CRC in micro circuit cleaning. I always get one or few their contact cleaners with me, one dry cleaning for switches, jumpers and connectors, lubricating one for knobs, faders and potentiometers (moving electronic parts with friction). I'm not vehicle professional thus haven't their type of product which you use. :P I guess you should be certainly easy to order their products since you live in eastern England. Wymondham near Norwich is the only shop, an online shop, I can find CRC products in UK. I live in western England, can't collect by myself, have to pay their delivery charge. Envy so much. I used to be able to buy easily just in a place called Apliu Street. However all I could buy in HK is just M.I.C. (Made In.... if you know what I mean...) version. The EU made version here I can buy works quite much better than MIC one, likely dissolves much more things, not that soon to be volatilized, smells stronger. P.S. The insufficient power of my old previous Prius car wasn't only caused by its design and carbon deposit, but also caused by me wrongly changing to another motor oil with unsuitable viscosity. Someone told me that oil viscosity choice should be different between low mileage engine and high mileage engine. In those days, car matters I knew wasn't as much as now. So I had to remedy with STP oil treatments, but eventually made the thing worse and more complicated.
Oh yes, I know all about those engines. I waited a long time for them to come to market but from what I've experienced the spark controlled compression ignition engine is a big let down. Only mildly more economical than my 184ps skyactiv g in the real world. Although it would be interesting to try one in the MX5.
7/10/22 - turbo cars got massive delays in pressing gas and accelerating; non-turbo cars are more responsive but hard to fast start without revving too much - port injection engines mostly have hard-to-control gas pedals; direct injection engines have pretty easy-to-control gas pedals
Appreciate the comparison between different kinds of cars. Any tips driving modern vehicles with rev hang? Besides shifting slower or having to give up a little bit of clutch slip. Thank you.
I kindly request to make videos on clutch control on pick up trucks it will help some of us who struggle with bigger manual cars thanks once again 4 u videos
Honestly driving a 1.6 tdi golf killed driving a manual for me as it was so fussy about what gear it wanted and such a delay with the throttle made rev matching hard. Couldn't go into 5th until 50 mph. Much nicer being in a petrol manual.
I’m presently doing my advanced motoring course, shortly about to do my test. One of my biggest issues is maintaining speed, it’s just so easy to exceed the speed limit and 20 mph are the worse, but watching this seating position is all important. Any advice on this would be so appreciated. Many thanks.
Hey Richard thanks 4 the lessons l have learnt from u videos using sedan Toyota however wen l got to a bigger car Nissan navra 2011 pick up l hve a difficult time in starting it it's break point is hard to find that l hve been stalling in traffic so many times pliz help me on this
I've tried to drive Kia Spectra a while ago with my father (I have no license yet, just tried to understand if I'm into it or not), and it was this issue when you start pushing gas pedal and nothing happens, then suddenly it jumps the revs up. I was soaking wet after 15 minutes trying to make the revs stable. Hope it's not the general case.
With the rev drop in mx-5, what if you just begin to release the clutch sooner to catch the revs at the optimal range for the higher gear? I have an nd2 manual and haven’t noticed any jerking when shifting from 2 to 3 and above. Also, regarding port injection, what if the car has both direct and port injection? I imagine you’d still get the benefits of direct injection there? Hard to tell as the obvious car I’m thinking of is a Lexus with 3.5L motor, which aren’t available with manual. Nevertheless amazing video and figure out pedal cam for mx-5 and teach us more more more.
You can lift the clutch quickly to catch the revs before they're too low but that requires a snappy gear change which the MX5 doesn't like when the gearbox is cold and new drivers would struggle to do it. The MX5 has a particularly slow and notchy gearbox when cold.
In my Mazda 3 2.5 I need to up shift blip going from 2nd to 3rd when taking off from 1st from a hill to get a smooth transition otherwise the car feels rough due to rev drop.
@@ConquerDriving Yeah but it might help a lot of drivers to not rely on the rpm gauge all the time. I found that feeling the engine’s vibration is the key to master mt driving.
What is the benefit of the upshift blip compered to just squizing the gas pedal before releasing the clutch? Also, I think I asked it already on this channel, but it is relevant. Is it a valid method where you don't let off the gas pedal completely to manage the revs? For example 20% throttle, and then release to 10% throttle for the upshift rather than 0%.
I think you can use either the blip or a gentle squeeze on upshift. May be different on that Mazda that had a very sensitive throttle. You can stay on the gas for a shift but it depends on the car and shift you are doing. In my petrol if I continue to squeeze for the entire upshift, I end up over-revving and lurching forward. So I only squeeze at the very end, when ready to lift the clutch. Leaving some throttle on for downshifts is a winner though, highly recommended.
All methods that work are valid. I use a combination of hold the gas slightly or blip the throttle. I do whatever I find easier in that particular car, blipping the throttle is good in cars I don't know as I'm off the gas as the clutch catches the falling revs, that way I'm not adding power at the bite point making it easier for the clutch to catch the revs and put them where they need to be - if that makes sense. If I was adding too much power I would be fighting the clutch but as I'm off the power and the revs are already falling the clutch can easily rev match without slowly the car down. If you can change gear by slightly reducing the gas smoothly, that is probably the best way to do it but it normally requires you to know your gas pedal very well and it will be different in all cars. I find that method works quite well in the Mazda now that I'm more used to it. I also like the sound of the blip so depends what mood I'm in too. 😉
In trying to balance my gas to 1500rpm but when i lift the clutch. My rpm just increases a bit because of the turbo 0.9 turno nissan micra 18 and get scared when it makes a loud noise from turbo
You don't want exactly 1500rpm between 1000-2000 will be fine. When you lift the clutch to the bite point it will lower the rpm anyway. As long as you're not way over 2000rpm clutch wear will be minimal. With experience you will be able to do gas and clutch at the same time, but for now it sounds like you have a difficult car to learn in. I've driven the 0.9 turbo in the Clio (same engine) and I hated it, I don't know if they've improved it now but the 2014 car I drove had a terrible gas pedal.
Mx5 miata. It is really a nice choice of car. I have the same car with 1.5 engine version. Do you know any other differences between the 2.0 version other than 1.5 not having a lsd in the back?
My car ( nissan micra 0.9 turbo ) i cant maintain the 1.5 rpm ( to move off gas and clutch release method )because it till go up to 2-2.2 rpm, is it normal ?
I keep stalling in my ND miata in first gear 😩 I think I am not bringing the clutch up enough and also times I'm not giving enough gas. Btw nice 100ae 👌
Driving a hyundai i10 iRde 2007 model Yesterday suddenly felt braking sensation in releasing clutch at 1st and 2nd gear...maybe 3-4 times out in total 35km congested city drive..it happened as if am pressing the brake insteed the gas pedal.plz advise
Thank you for your rwply.But would like to state that when i tried to start rolling the car from a stop...it felt that as if it jamming somewhere.specially in clutch bite positions in 1st or 2nd gears only...is bcoz am a beginner or the car is carrying full capacity passengers..
Today my dad took me on a private road and let me drive his car, the road was full of potholes at the end of the private road I dropped the car down a massive pothole and punctured his tyre which wasn’t really my fault, he should’ve let me drive on the usual road he takes me on but he should’ve known not to let me drive on a road covered with them cause I haven’t driven since December
I'm sorry to hear that, I can understand why your dad would only want to take you on a private road if you haven't driven for so long. Sensible on his part but unfortunate.
@@ConquerDriving the potholes were unavoidable I’ll just stick to the airfield near where I live, yes there’s a few potholes but not many plus the usual place I go has an area where I can reverse the car and steer, when I’m on that part I use all the steering methods as I’ve found out it makes driving fun combine that with manual and you’ll have a blast
My Mk2 Clio has a 1.2. It has a similar thing to the fiat, where when moving off, without much pressure on the gas it can rev up a fair amount. Very annoying but I guess with time I'll get used to it. Just a quick question, as you mentioned the throttle body on your astra, sometimes, i press the gas pedal, and it feels a bit stiff, and the car doesn't accelerate, then it reaches a point where the throttle opens up, and it jerks foward. Would you say that's the throttle body sticking, or maybe the cable sticking? 🤔 Many thanks
That's very possible if it is a cable, I had to replace the cable on the VX220 yearly as it was an aftermarket fitment using ITBs and used to get wet when it rained. Only took a year being left outside to get stiff. £80 for the part and 2-3 hours of my time.
im struggling with gas control in my instructors hyundai i30, ill tap the gas a tiny bit and wont hear the engine…. then ill tap it a tiny bit more and wake up the entire neighbourhood
Almost. There are still naturally aspirated engines to this day. Mazda doesn’t have many turbo engines. They do have a Mazda 3 Turbo with a 2.5-litre engine which does 0-100 in 5.5 seconds but it’s not available in Europe.
Shifting more quickly can work but it's harsh on the gearbox. Especially a cold gearbox and even more especially so for a cold MX5 gearbox. You need to change slowly until it's warm.
I literally have no words to explain how good this video was
Best instructor ever
Especially since I've only passed my exam and haven't driven since, you are a very nice person to listen to in order to get a bit more confidence and a bit of good advice.
Greetings from Russia.
I passed my driving three years ago and still learning a lot from you .Best driver out there.
Ive been watching u a long time I wish u were around me I am a driver of 3 years but I am a nervous driver due to a bad instructor he was retiring and only learned me 3 routes that the examiner uses and certain manovers just to get me to pass my test fast . I relyed on him telling me what to do and he used to shout when I made little mistakes so never had experience on new roads and got super anxious to make little mistakes now even 3 years later only stick to what I no never go anywhere new and I especially worry about going somewhere that I don't know about parking as I'm not confident parking next to cars as I never learned proply and I am nervous I love your videos as it helps me know what I missed but ur amazing and have so much patience for ppl and the way you explain things is great. I so wish I could drive like everyone else and someone like u would help so much xx
Really sucks to have an instructor like that.
I'm sorry to hear that, it can be daunting but the way I look at it is what's the worse that can happen? Someone may shout at you or you may even scratch your car parking, but I guess you're more competent than you believe and I would argue that your freedom is more important than the possibility of upsetting someone or having to take a few attempts at parking. We all feel the pressure, the key is to try and not let it get the better of you. Easier said than done but the more you try to do it the easier it becomes and the longer you leave it the harder it becomes. Drive someone nice and focus on what you enjoyed about the experience, forget about the problems.
@@ConquerDriving Class act 👍
5:04 “Of course you don’t want to learn like that, because if you learn to do it like that, what are you gonna do in a car that doesn’t do that?” Stalling, Richard, all the time :(
But thanks for these video’s! They are so helpful!
I didn’t know what turbo car was and my accelerator didn’t pick up quickly. Thanks for explaining the mechanics. Really helpful.. definitely the best Channel out there!
coming back to this video again after buying a car with a port-injected engine and a mechanical throttle body as my first car, lets hope i wont have to move off at 3000 rpm again. Amazing video!
🚗 Thanks for helping me out when I was struggling to learn it... very fortunate to have you teaching us. Great job! ✇
I've got a Hyundai i10 1.2L petrol and I have that problem with the sensitive gas pedal and it is incredibly hard to control and therefore rev match... I've driven 2 other petrol cars and they are absolute bliss to drive because the gas does what I want it to! The i10 is my first car and I've been learning in it for the majority and I've always thought that maybe it's something I'm doing wrong that is causing the problem but now I believe it must be due to a port injected engine. Great vid once again Richard!
Thank you. It's a funny thing that the hardest car to drive is usually our first.
Thanks for giving us tips on the Mazda MX-5 :)
I am loving that car.
Richard is the final boss of driving 😎💯
You know his clips are good when u even finish watching the commercial at the end.
Nice video, thank you - made me think as well. Maybe it is not just the engine, but how the throttle pedal 'is' (mechanically controlling the input, or through an electronic signature/circuit).
Nevertheless; when in a new/unfamiliar car, it is wise to not just push the pedal to the metal, lest the driver may be in for a surprise.
Very true, I'm always careful in an unfamiliar car. Part of what I like about driving is experiencing the differences between cars.
For example of what he's on about at 9:00 on insurance, I have a 2011 ford mondeo as my first car which is a 2.0 tdci with 163bhp and I paid around the same as I would have for a 1.4 fiesta or corsa so this is very true and will be different for everyone. Was at age 17 now 18 still in my first year.
That's what I and many others have found.
This video made me feel a lot better about myself! I practice on a 2007 Toyota Auris 1.4 petrol, which uses MPI (which is apparently the same as port injection) and it is literally impossible to get anything under 2000rpm (I even tried using my hand with my foot on the clutch and it was impossible!). This makes Hill starts really hard because it is a pretty under powered engine with no torque already and couple that with the high clutch and overly sensitive gas pedal and I have a really hard time! So most hill starts happen at 3000rpm but now and again even 4000 if it is a really steep hill.
Thank you for clearing things up, especially with Miata, we have her but I didn't drive after I got a licence, and now I'm relearning and a bit struggling/not understanding what's going on. Especially since my instructor has automatic, and I assume turbo or something because its gas pedal is just non responsive and then shoots - so I guess it's turbo. Your videos and explanations help tremendously, thank you! I'll definitely try to practice 'coin thickness movement'. I mean I can go from point A to B in immediate neighbourhood but I feel embarassed by how much little one can jump when I mess up my movements, I think everyone outside sees it and I'm not doing her any honor :D She is after all, meant to be driven smoothly and not jerky :) But oh boy, what joy she already is, in speeds around schickane type slowing down where in my instructor car I felt totally nervous (coming with 40 and braking to 25 kmh), in Miata I happily go 40 and say weeeee :D She's definitely made for curves :)
I recently bought a Honda ep3 and it seems like the high rev engine really does make smooth driving/starts more difficult because of rev drops and fast acceleration in first two gears. Very fun car, though. Thank you for the video.
When the revs drop fast it is harder to drive smoothly. It's less to do with how high the engine revs and more to do with the weight of the flywheel.
Can you please do a nice POV driving with pedal cam on the Mx5! I love how the revs drop so quickly!
I may do in the future. Not the easiest car to mount and pedal cam in.
Thanks mr Richard 🙏🏿
My inspector👍 wish you best
good instructor ever
Could you perhaps make a video on buying your first car what sort of research to do and what to look for?
He has made a video on beginners car buying guide:
th-cam.com/video/k3SCr4BSzYc/w-d-xo.html
This video may help you: th-cam.com/video/k3SCr4BSzYc/w-d-xo.html
I learned how to drive stick in a 2009 Impreza WRX. Yeah, that one with the old fashioned EJ255 2.5L port injected petrol turbo with a 5 speed. Not exactly the easiest car to learn with.
Useful video and love the socks😂😂😂
Really am blessed my brother thanks may God bless u
Sir, In India the biggest problem is how to judge in between the driver's sitting position and the front bonette of the car as mostly in city areas roads r overcrowded prompting to have a bumper to bumper driving situation. Can u make an elaborate video on judging the bonette?
I have already made this video for judging distance when parking. As for getting bumper to bumper when driving in traffic my advice would be to not go closer than you can judge. If you're finding it difficult to judge then you are way too close. But I understand driving in India is hard.
with the acceleration with a turbo (at just under 30mph in fourth gear) i tend to floor it suddenly then gradually come off the gas, which seems to work fairly well as it’s not jerky, the turbo seems to smooth it out a bit
I had a mock driving test yesterday, and failed with only minors, and all minors were because of Accelerator speed. It was a different car than normal. And pedals were incredibly light / took time for engine speed to kick in, but when it did, I was flying, leading to doing real quick manuevers and steering quick, or speeding up too quick into hazards. Then compensating this, I was going too slow when picking up speed. Still a good drive, got more than a month to fix my gas use.
Some cars are easier than others, it's important to take your time in a car you're unfamiliar with.
With throttles being electronic these days, it all comes down to how the manufacturer has tuned it.. (same with turbodiesels)
On my elec throttle car, the throttle opens more at lower rpm (making the engine feel more torque-y than it normally would be) and opens less at higher RPM, (making gears run out quicker, coaxing you into upshifting nice and early to get good fuel economy)... This was back in 2007 (and introduced 2004.. quite early).
The lowest throttle position is a bit annoying, hard to go from "slowing down" to "i want full engine braking as if i'm changing up gear" in traffic.. but this is all down to software and I think because back then the throttle pedal sensor doesn't have much 'resolution'... maybe only 64 steps... not many when you are using only 5% ish of the pedal!
Newer cars are more likely to have higher resolution sensors, and be smoother.
LIke you said, best way to find out if you like it, is to test drive it... Seems like that panda is trying too hard to feel like a bigger engine by giving a big boost in throttle when you let the clutch out on a medium-fast start
With respect to electronic throttle bodies in general, throttle position is directly proportional to how much torque is produced.
The sensors don't have steps and are normally voltage based. For example a throttle position sensor is a potentiometer which may read from 1-5 volts but it's measured down to one hundredth or even one thousandth of a volt. So plenty of steps there. It's the mapping that's often the problem, I fitted a new aftermarket ECU to my old VX220 in 2018 and it was mapped in 0.4% increments of throttle, sometimes if the throttle was just right it would flick between 0.4-0.8% causing the car to jerk. Another problem was getting the throttle to close completely, it's such a tiny movement between 0% and 0.4% that sometimes it would stay on 0.4% if you come off the gas gently, a throttle blip would slam it shut and sort the problem. More modern cars use mass air flow sensors combined with throttle positioning sensors which are much more reliable. All engines will give the majority of their power in the first half travel of throttle, it's actually what makes controlling a car difficult, the first 5% of throttle travel will give like 20% power or something. More recent designs have reduced this with electronic fly by wire throttle bodies opening less compared to how much you press the gas and closing slowly even if you come off the gas quickly (rev hang). This also helps emissions as the ecu has more time to change injector open length to keep a good air fuel ratio. Try driving an early efi car in first gear, a little gas shoots you forward and a little less gas jerks the car as you slow down suddenly. Most cars in the last 10 years have actually been smooth, even in first gear, but there is a delay to your inputs as a result. They have also got better at positioning the throttle body and designing the positive crankcase ventilation system to stop oily deposits forming on the throttle body and disrupting airflow. I later worked out that the panda blipped the throttle whenever it got to 5mph, I rolled it down a hill in neutral and saw it blip the gas at 5mph. What a stupid design.
Now I just feel glad I've only ever driven Naturally aspirated cars. The car you said that revs to 2k instantly or nothing at all sounds like my Honda 😅 It will also rev to 4k just like the MX5 even though it's such a big car.
Direct injection seems the mainstream in recent modern cars, especially some "smart cars" and hybrid cars, which majorly comes with computer controlled direct injection, multipoint injection, with auxiliary port injection. So the car system could calculate and decide if fully use all I4 cylinders or only 2 of them for electricity charging only. Anyway, what I heard and know is that direct injection (as major) tend to deposit fuel burning residue (we usually just call it "carbon" or "charcoal powder" in slang other than English) more easily. Thus I was taught that if you drive a car with direct injection, you're recommended to apply some fuel additive into your gas tank for cleaning up your fuel system, engine, intake system, injectors and exhaust system (especially catalytic converter) sometimes, before anything is already completely stuck. Redex Petrol/Diesel System Cleaner seems quite mainstream from all drivers I know. You can buy it from the most supermarkets in UK easily. Only half of a 250ml bottle into your tank of fuel is an usual dose. It will do its own work automatically while you just use your tank of fuel. You may even apply a full 250ml bottle if you think the problem is harsh which like 60% to 80% stuck. Very easy to use no matter professional drivers or even learners. It will restore all your injection, intake and exhaust amount, as well as your engine power. Emission will decrease after fully using your dose. The down side will be heavy emission while your dose is right being in use at the moment. Your car will become a smoke bomb. Everybody far away can still see your car smoke. And you will smell a strong barbecue charcoal burning smell, you could even smell it inside your car, as the "carbon" is being cleaned away from your car. And determining when to use is a little bit challenging, you'll need to have a little experience in using cars, since it's unlikely good to apply it too frequently. Someone told me to use before and after winter, and after snowing days, as heavy water condensing inside the engine system may mix into the "carbon powder" which become "carbon soil". It'll be the toughest residue to be cleaned which might even likely make your engine warning light on.
This video may be of interest: th-cam.com/video/fgvNu_HVD_g/w-d-xo.html
@@ConquerDriving Wow! £300 once. Perhaps I'm not as vehicle professional as you. I think I'll still stay in the way both a bit cheaper and less complicated. 😂 I just want it easier and less thing I have to do, as long as working on it before they're 100% completely blocked. I get my patience with waiting for 1 to 3 tank of 45L fuel with additive doing its job, gradually. Guess I'll apply it at least twice a year - before winter and after winter. I don't worry about summer carbon that much, all I worry about is carbon mixed with winter snow, frost, heavy condensing inside, become carbon cement, I'll get a hell to pay (so additional dose after snow and below zero).
But I get a question, do you think it might possibly change total viscosity inside your engine system, at least a little bit for a while? However I agree what you said, carbon and deposit accumulated inside engine systems always make my engine lose some power and hesitate. I got such experience, especially in a hybrid car. You know hybrid system first accelerates with electricity, then gas engine kicks in. I had ever felt that lag between electric traction and engine traction, quite jerky. Engine was so slow to start kicking in. But then all these things gone, in just a week right after that tank of additive fuel starting in use.
Yes some manufacturers are quite prone to understating some data. Not limited to western makes, but Japanese and Korean sometimes. Toyota stated Auris hybrid top speed 112mph, but most of my friend told me "Bullsh*t! So many illegal night car racings in HK running their Auris hybrid faster than 240kph! Has it counted power mode already? I bet no!" Yes it indeed speeds up to 90mph unconsciously sometimes (speeding I know) even without power mode on and "tachometer" even wasn't pointing in "power" section. My old Prius was far weaker than such power, still a little bit hard to climb up to 70mph for entering motorway, even already with power mode on.
Similar cases in electric things. Most British made and other European made machines like amplifiers, usually understated their power output, their power units can handle usually 2 to 4 times more than they state. But this never happened in Chinese things, I'm so sorry have to say. Chinese things only overstate, but never understate or even just be honest. While a Chinese amplifier states 200w output, usually just means 20w actually.
@@ConquerDriving But CRC, such a familiar name. Never thought you are also a CRC user! :D I mostly use CRC in micro circuit cleaning. I always get one or few their contact cleaners with me, one dry cleaning for switches, jumpers and connectors, lubricating one for knobs, faders and potentiometers (moving electronic parts with friction). I'm not vehicle professional thus haven't their type of product which you use. :P I guess you should be certainly easy to order their products since you live in eastern England. Wymondham near Norwich is the only shop, an online shop, I can find CRC products in UK. I live in western England, can't collect by myself, have to pay their delivery charge. Envy so much. I used to be able to buy easily just in a place called Apliu Street. However all I could buy in HK is just M.I.C. (Made In.... if you know what I mean...) version. The EU made version here I can buy works quite much better than MIC one, likely dissolves much more things, not that soon to be volatilized, smells stronger.
P.S. The insufficient power of my old previous Prius car wasn't only caused by its design and carbon deposit, but also caused by me wrongly changing to another motor oil with unsuitable viscosity. Someone told me that oil viscosity choice should be different between low mileage engine and high mileage engine. In those days, car matters I knew wasn't as much as now. So I had to remedy with STP oil treatments, but eventually made the thing worse and more complicated.
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I have a 1.3 turbo direct-injected petrol car and i'm struggling with controlling the rev. Maybe the reason is turbo, idk
Yes, turbo does make the gas less responsive.
Mazda has something called ‘Skyactiv-X’. These are 2-litre petrol engines with the same economy of a diesel; it has around 180 horsepower.
Oh yes, I know all about those engines. I waited a long time for them to come to market but from what I've experienced the spark controlled compression ignition engine is a big let down. Only mildly more economical than my 184ps skyactiv g in the real world. Although it would be interesting to try one in the MX5.
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- turbo cars got massive delays in pressing gas and accelerating; non-turbo cars are more responsive but hard to fast start without revving too much
- port injection engines mostly have hard-to-control gas pedals; direct injection engines have pretty easy-to-control gas pedals
I'm not sure if port is harder to control than direct, I'm only assuming so from my anecdotal experience.
@@ConquerDriving thank you so much for the clarification!
Appreciate the comparison between different kinds of cars. Any tips driving modern vehicles with rev hang? Besides shifting slower or having to give up a little bit of clutch slip. Thank you.
Rev hang can be handy as it allows you to lift the clutch easily without gas. The little bit of clutch slip will do no noticeable harm.
Hey, one question. When you wanna accelerate somwhat quick, do you give gas at the biting point when changing up to the second gear?
A little bit can help, but it's car dependant. Do what works best in a particular car.
Great advice
I kindly request to make videos on clutch control on pick up trucks it will help some of us who struggle with bigger manual cars thanks once again 4 u videos
It is the same as clutch control on a car, I've sent you a link to a video that may help on a reply to another comment.
@@ConquerDriving thanks Richard l never thought l would get feedback from u cause this is an old video God bless you
Honestly driving a 1.6 tdi golf killed driving a manual for me as it was so fussy about what gear it wanted and such a delay with the throttle made rev matching hard. Couldn't go into 5th until 50 mph. Much nicer being in a petrol manual.
I totally agree, I had that engine in my last learner car (2010 SEAT Ibiza). It took the fun out of driving and the DPF was annoying.
I’m presently doing my advanced motoring course, shortly about to do my test. One of my biggest issues is maintaining speed, it’s just so easy to exceed the speed limit and 20 mph are the worse, but watching this seating position is all important. Any advice on this would be so appreciated. Many thanks.
I struggle to keep it within 20mph too. 2nd gear may help.
Hey Richard thanks 4 the lessons l have learnt from u videos using sedan Toyota however wen l got to a bigger car Nissan navra 2011 pick up l hve a difficult time in starting it it's break point is hard to find that l hve been stalling in traffic so many times pliz help me on this
Thank you for watching! This video may help th-cam.com/video/AHna4amcsnE/w-d-xo.html
@@ConquerDriving thanks Richard u the best
I've tried to drive Kia Spectra a while ago with my father (I have no license yet, just tried to understand if I'm into it or not), and it was this issue when you start pushing gas pedal and nothing happens, then suddenly it jumps the revs up. I was soaking wet after 15 minutes trying to make the revs stable. Hope it's not the general case.
Some cars have a horrible gas pedal. Much harder to drive well.
With the rev drop in mx-5, what if you just begin to release the clutch sooner to catch the revs at the optimal range for the higher gear? I have an nd2 manual and haven’t noticed any jerking when shifting from 2 to 3 and above.
Also, regarding port injection, what if the car has both direct and port injection? I imagine you’d still get the benefits of direct injection there? Hard to tell as the obvious car I’m thinking of is a Lexus with 3.5L motor, which aren’t available with manual.
Nevertheless amazing video and figure out pedal cam for mx-5 and teach us more more more.
You can lift the clutch quickly to catch the revs before they're too low but that requires a snappy gear change which the MX5 doesn't like when the gearbox is cold and new drivers would struggle to do it. The MX5 has a particularly slow and notchy gearbox when cold.
In my Mazda 3 2.5 I need to up shift blip going from 2nd to 3rd when taking off from 1st from a hill to get a smooth transition otherwise the car feels rough due to rev drop.
I find that is the case in the Mazdas I've driven. They're not the easier manuals to drive smoothly.
In ‘boost threshold’ part, is the boost delay also happen on twin turbo cars?
You have boost threshold on all turbo cars. Gas lag happens with all internal combustion cars. But some hybrids have torque fill to remove the delay.
Can you do a video on how to properly drive manual cars with no rpm gauge?
It's a hard video to do as the sound will not come across well, but the sounds I explained and mimicked in this video sums it up.
@@ConquerDriving Yeah but it might help a lot of drivers to not rely on the rpm gauge all the time. I found that feeling the engine’s vibration is the key to master mt driving.
What is the benefit of the upshift blip compered to just squizing the gas pedal before releasing the clutch? Also, I think I asked it already on this channel, but it is relevant. Is it a valid method where you don't let off the gas pedal completely to manage the revs? For example 20% throttle, and then release to 10% throttle for the upshift rather than 0%.
I think you can use either the blip or a gentle squeeze on upshift. May be different on that Mazda that had a very sensitive throttle.
You can stay on the gas for a shift but it depends on the car and shift you are doing. In my petrol if I continue to squeeze for the entire upshift, I end up over-revving and lurching forward. So I only squeeze at the very end, when ready to lift the clutch. Leaving some throttle on for downshifts is a winner though, highly recommended.
Thank you, @@dougscott7079. Very helpful tip.
All methods that work are valid. I use a combination of hold the gas slightly or blip the throttle. I do whatever I find easier in that particular car, blipping the throttle is good in cars I don't know as I'm off the gas as the clutch catches the falling revs, that way I'm not adding power at the bite point making it easier for the clutch to catch the revs and put them where they need to be - if that makes sense. If I was adding too much power I would be fighting the clutch but as I'm off the power and the revs are already falling the clutch can easily rev match without slowly the car down. If you can change gear by slightly reducing the gas smoothly, that is probably the best way to do it but it normally requires you to know your gas pedal very well and it will be different in all cars. I find that method works quite well in the Mazda now that I'm more used to it. I also like the sound of the blip so depends what mood I'm in too. 😉
@@ConquerDriving thank you! It all made sense ☺️
In trying to balance my gas to 1500rpm but when i lift the clutch. My rpm just increases a bit because of the turbo 0.9 turno nissan micra 18 and get scared when it makes a loud noise from turbo
You don't want exactly 1500rpm between 1000-2000 will be fine. When you lift the clutch to the bite point it will lower the rpm anyway. As long as you're not way over 2000rpm clutch wear will be minimal. With experience you will be able to do gas and clutch at the same time, but for now it sounds like you have a difficult car to learn in. I've driven the 0.9 turbo in the Clio (same engine) and I hated it, I don't know if they've improved it now but the 2014 car I drove had a terrible gas pedal.
Mx5 miata. It is really a nice choice of car. I have the same car with 1.5 engine version. Do you know any other differences between the 2.0 version other than 1.5 not having a lsd in the back?
It is nice thank you, it has firmer Bilstein suspension, strut brace and different size wheels. Other than that I think it's the same.
@@ConquerDriving I'd really like to watch a video that you list most of the things you like/don't like about this car. Thanks. Cheerio ;)
My car ( nissan micra 0.9 turbo ) i cant maintain the 1.5 rpm ( to move off gas and clutch release method )because it till go up to 2-2.2 rpm, is it normal ?
Some cars do that, can mean there is something wrong with the throttle body or some cars are just bad to drive. Very hard to learn in a car like that.
What’s a multi-point injection engine?
Each piston has it's own injector.
@@ConquerDriving how would that affect the throttle and revving the engine?
I keep stalling in my ND miata in first gear 😩 I think I am not bringing the clutch up enough and also times I'm not giving enough gas. Btw nice 100ae 👌
You need to give revs in skyactiv Mazdas.
@@ConquerDriving thank you ! I will keep practicing 👍
Driving a hyundai i10 iRde 2007 model
Yesterday suddenly felt braking sensation in releasing clutch at 1st and 2nd gear...maybe 3-4 times out in total 35km congested city drive..it happened as if am pressing the brake insteed the gas pedal.plz advise
If you change down a gear the car will slow down. Or even if you go up a gear it could slow down, if this is the case you need more gas.
Thank you for your rwply.But would like to state that when i tried to start rolling the car from a stop...it felt that as if it jamming somewhere.specially in clutch bite positions in 1st or 2nd gears only...is bcoz am a beginner or the car is carrying full capacity passengers..
Are "port injected" and "indirect injected" the same?
Yes.
Today my dad took me on a private road and let me drive his car, the road was full of potholes at the end of the private road I dropped the car down a massive pothole and punctured his tyre which wasn’t really my fault, he should’ve let me drive on the usual road he takes me on but he should’ve known not to let me drive on a road covered with them cause I haven’t driven since December
I'm sorry to hear that, I can understand why your dad would only want to take you on a private road if you haven't driven for so long. Sensible on his part but unfortunate.
@@ConquerDriving the potholes were unavoidable I’ll just stick to the airfield near where I live, yes there’s a few potholes but not many plus the usual place I go has an area where I can reverse the car and steer, when I’m on that part I use all the steering methods as I’ve found out it makes driving fun combine that with manual and you’ll have a blast
Yeah my fiat 500 revs up so fast in first , it sucks sometimes
That has there same engine if it's the 1.2
@@ConquerDriving I think it's 1.4L
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👍🔥
Conquerer of the Cars
Haha, thank you.
I thought my car was being weird because I never knew about boost threshold 😅
Seat "LAWAN"
My Mk2 Clio has a 1.2. It has a similar thing to the fiat, where when moving off, without much pressure on the gas it can rev up a fair amount. Very annoying but I guess with time I'll get used to it.
Just a quick question, as you mentioned the throttle body on your astra, sometimes, i press the gas pedal, and it feels a bit stiff, and the car doesn't accelerate, then it reaches a point where the throttle opens up, and it jerks foward. Would you say that's the throttle body sticking, or maybe the cable sticking? 🤔 Many thanks
That's very possible if it is a cable, I had to replace the cable on the VX220 yearly as it was an aftermarket fitment using ITBs and used to get wet when it rained. Only took a year being left outside to get stiff. £80 for the part and 2-3 hours of my time.
im struggling with gas control in my instructors hyundai i30, ill tap the gas a tiny bit and wont hear the engine…. then ill tap it a tiny bit more and wake up the entire neighbourhood
The is very good for the environment and it has been in dad since last week
An engine without a supercharger or a turbocharger is naturally aspirated.
Normally, naturally, potato, potarto. I think saying normally is a bit more old school when not having a turbo was normal. Now everything has a turbo.
Almost. There are still naturally aspirated engines to this day. Mazda doesn’t have many turbo engines. They do have a Mazda 3 Turbo with a 2.5-litre engine which does 0-100 in 5.5 seconds but it’s not available in Europe.
up shift blip is useless, just shift quicker
Shifting more quickly can work but it's harsh on the gearbox. Especially a cold gearbox and even more especially so for a cold MX5 gearbox. You need to change slowly until it's warm.
Pov: 'im here because p1 was private'
Is it? It shouldn't be.
In King Lord and my Master Jesus, Name, Amen.
Is it me or does the Fiat Panda has a awful tachometer design? 🤢