the Brand Gränsfors Bruk products might say they are hand forged when in reality they are mostly machine made but in a way so you have a bunch of human control over the machine doing work.
The last factory job I worked made foam filled panels for walk-in coolers and freezers. Most production workers had one of the flat bars that we called "scrapers". Since we were using them almost all shift long, we would wrap the center section with tape for padding and better grip. Scrapping excess foam, leverage, and pulling panels lose from the presses were just a few things we did with them. We needed to keep them sharp enough to scrap foam but not sharp enough to gouge the metal.
I can just see K having a big smile on their face watching Adam's joy & excitement over receiving such a gift! You can tell that Adam is a (sadly) increasingly rare breed of kind-hearted, gentle soul, because he keeps receiving gifts from strangers - of like kind - that totally make his day, and are clearly calculated to do so!
The flat bar is often referred to as a beekeepers tool. It is the perfect tool to working within a hive and working with beeswax that can seal areas up. 💚♥️💚
Many people call that first tool a beekeeper bar; as a 73-year-old builder and carpenter, it was known as a sash tool; when windows were wood and had pulleys and weights, this was the tool used to remove window panels or trim to gain access to the weights or to remove and repair a glass panel. The sharp end could be slid under the trim part and loosened enough to get the other end behind it to pry it off the casing with the rounded part not leaving marks on the varnished wood. I would sometimes slide a piece of card stock under it for more protection. Of course, they are great for many other prying tasks!
I remember those windows in an old house that I lived in. There were ropes that went down the side of the frame. At that age I never knew to check it out that there might have been weights doing something there.
@@hanslain9729 Yes, that's them. On each side near the bottom there would be a short (maybe 12") piece of wood in the casing that was mitered at a 45 degree angle with a small screw to hold it in place, when you removed it you could access the weight inside. When the sash rope breaks, you would remove the window panel, and there would be a grove in the side to accommodate the sash rope and a hole for the knot that held the rope; you would then feed the other end over the pulley at the top of the jamb down and tie it off on the weight. It was a tricky deal to get it right. That's why you saw people just put a stick under the window to hold it up! It was a long time ago I worked on those!
The flat bar was something i purchased about 10 years ago in order to include it on my work bag for a very specific reason after i spent almost one hour trying to open a wooden box that was nailed shut with dozens of nails. The same day i went and bought it and thought i would rarely need it and thus left it in the bottom of the bag. It very quickly jumped up the retreivability chain of command and went outside the bag hooked between the molle straps so i can have instant access to it and used it almost daily for many different reasons. The leverage it applies once you become proficient with it is incredible and the scraping action after you sharpen it is an added bonus. Keep in mind that many people once they see it will ask you wether you are also a beekeeper. It is very often referred to as a "beehive key" rather than a pry bar in my country. The light weight, its shape and size make it very easy to carry in a tool kit or a bag. Just stuff it in a corner and it occupies practically no space and adds very little weight. Since i use a backpack for my assortment of tools this is the only pry bar that makes sense to add to my collection. Every other pry bar seems too heavy and weirdly shaped to add to an already stuffed and heavy tool bag. Some titanium small pry bars seem interesting but the cost is prohibiting and a potential critical failure under heavy load would make an adult man cry even without getting physically hurt. :p P.S. When it seems like it cannot take a big load of weight as you're leveraging stop using it vertically and try using the L corner sideways and then you'll realise how much strength you can actually apply without bending such a lightweight tool. Haha... when i saw the flat bar in the thumbnail i actually got very excited but i feel that this is a safe space for me to geek out over a pry bar and judging by the rest of the comments i feel like i'm not alone here lol. Such a simple and cheap tool yet so useful. Best money i ever spent. ROI for sure!
Have a small flat bar similar in size to that one that I inherited from my dad. One of his favorite and most used tools and now it's one of mine as well.
As a carpenter I've always has the black steel 9½" flat bar for trim work. As a mechanic I like the Titan 11509 9¼" stainless steel version better. They can both have their uses and stack neatly together in the drawer.
I grew up on a honey bee farm, and I have had a "hive tool" aka flat bar since I was about 12. When my father retired we had one chrome plated and engraved for him. I have one in my memory case.
Another name in English for a small one with a nail puller on one end and pry bar on the other end, is a cat’s paw. They are great for removing trim and moulding.
In Finnish it's "Cows shoe" (lehmän kenkä) while master key is also used. Sledgehammer is called "fine tuner" or "fine tuning hammer" (hienosäätövasara).
Adam, you are a national treasure. Thank you for always presenting positive vibes and maintaining a sense of wonder about the world. You've been inspiring me and others for so long i just wanted to say thank you.
Correct. 100% correct. Can't live without them, but also include the Japanese nail remover, it's small, and cupped, which is what makes it special, has offset end, and completes the set.
Both of those bars are in my tool collection, and I can confirm they are among the best bars Ive ever had the pleasure of using. For intended purpose, as scrapers, levers, etc, the quality and feel on my hand of both tools far exceeds my other traditionally design flatbars and pry bars
I have a variation of that Hyde flat bar, made by Red Devil, bought in '92... Absolutely love it and swear by it! Still have it today after 20 years in the Army and 10 years of self employment! LOVE it.
We always used what's called a shoe bar doing demo work. They're about 3 or so feet long with a right angle bend of a few inches on the end of them. So you could punch the head through sheetrock then rip it out. The rip action is used a lot with it. Or you can swing it like a club. For say kicking out studs. Swing and rip.
The amusement Adam gets from small things such as moving through the cave on a chair with wheels in one take is something that brings joy to my heart. It's a kids like satisfaction of knowing a instant idea of "this might work" work...lol
I thought that is what it was from the thumbnail. I've used it in siding repair, and it is amazing at prying apart vinyl siding without breaking it or scratching it.
The moment I saw the small flat bar I had to watch. I freakin love those guys. I have several, and I gave my dad a few too because they rock! Also, Granfors Bruk make excellent axes, but I was unaware they made other tools, so now I have to have them! 😂
I discovered the flat bar in the 70's painting houses, would grind the bent end to match the shape on siding and used them to scrape paint. I have more than a dozen of them now, different brands and slightly different sizes. Excellent for removing trim and opening old double hung windows. One lives in my tool bag at all times
When I was painting Victorians in San Francisco in the 80's, we used Hyde pry bars for many things... opening stuck windows, scraping burnt paint (yes, we burned off layers of too-thick old paint back then), light hammering, you name it. A fine modification is to wrap the middle with a few layers of quality Gaffer's tape for better grip and to absorb shock and vibration. Very easy to keep them sharp, and they simply do.not.break, and I have two in my home shop still today.
As a mechanic I find I rarely need a prybar in either of those shapes. For scraping I have a razor blade scraper and a wrecking knife with a chisel tip. However I do use those podgy bars, which are those ones with a tapered end and a roll head, all the time and they make my life so much easier. I have them in all shapes from 3” up to 36”. I also have a gearwrench 36” indexing roll head bar, which may be large for your uses, but they make the 16” variety which would be perfect for your needs. But the prybar I use most and grab every time something needs prying is my pocket prybar from snapon, with the straight head. It’s a flat blade screwdriver, but durable enough I can jam it into a crevice and trust it enough I can stand on it with my full weight. And it’s made using the same steel that goes into the full sized snap-on prybars. Before I got that prybar I only had my pocket knife, and out of curiosity kept a tally for a week on what I used the knife for on a regular basis. 9 times out of 10 I was using it to pry something.
I have a flat bar that is bent in the shape of the Swedish wrecking bar which rocks. Its overall length is about 16 inches. The hive tool is one of the best things in my tool box and bee yard. Love your stuff. !!!
I have the same small Flat Bar and I can attest to it being used as a scraper. The right angle side works like a paint scraper on flaking paint, varnish and the like. The wide fine taper of the bar lets you separate fine trim without damaging it.👍
Have to agree pry bar is the master key of life ! Right tool for the right job ,or application is true here also . I did tons of rehab on old houses with double hung windows , when they were painted shut for years I would use the small flat bar to help get the sections to move .of course you cut the old paint with a razor knife first. What a great tool !….
Gransford Bruks also makes some of the best backpacking drop-forge axes in the world. I waited 2 years for my 19-inch small forest axe which I take on short hiking trips. Best affordable quality, and an heirloom piece. Not sure if we can describe prybars as heirloom quality, but if we can--you now have a good one. Enjoy!
1:38 Flat bar, hive tool (essential for working in an apiary. With two of these you could pry a skyscraper out of the ground. Most useful tool there is. I make lunch with mine when working on something.
The first one is great for trim and siding. I had no idea Gransfors made more than axes, but that makes sense; I remember bending a large wrecking bar that was clearly not made of high enough quality steel.
I've broken many of each type..I call that little one a window bar. Good for centering the window in the opening and pick it up to be level in the opening
On pry bars, a Restorer's Cat's Paw from Lee Valley Tools is one the best. I have five variations of it in my basement. It's great for removing small or stubborn nails and is indispensable for prying delicate things like molding. It is my recommendation for home repair pry bars.
I was going to say the same thing. It’s perfect for gently prying apart joints with little or no damage and works well for removing trim and mouldings.
I especially recommend the Gransfor Bruk hand axes. Before arthritis took me , I would use their big carving axe to make spoons... from splitting a chunk off a small log to the finished surface with the one tool never leaving my hand until I had to grab a gouge for hollowing the bowl. Beautiful tools of the highest quality.
I have one of those flat bars in my pants right now. Scraping spray foam off of studs and pulling staples with it. Sharpen it once in a while and its a great tool
Being a current Volvo owner (2005 V70) and having ALWAYS been a super fan of the 245 DL, this video speaks volumes to me. Fun facts about Volvo 1) The name Volvo means "I roll" which was a reference to the original company. They made iron ball bearings before they made cars. 2) The logo for Volvo is an ancient chemical symbol for iron. So...Swedish IRON is accurate!
I have that Hyde flat bar, purchased circa 1987. It is one of the most-used tools in my bag, and of course I've had to file it and sharpen it numerous times over the years, usually after abusing it somehow. Remarkably, it still has some of the original black finish after some 37 years. I'm almost certain I bought it at the Sunnyvale Home Depot (the original one, not where it stands today), and I remember going crazy trying to find it in the tool department, only to learn that it was instead stocked in the paint department.
Pulled a 6" flat bar out of a construction dumpster a few years back and cleaned some schmoo off of it and it's been really great. Haven't sharpened it though, which is now on my list.
the first tool , Flat bar .. looks the same as the beekeepers tool i've been using for years.... and yeah it's the finest scraper / flexible pry bar i've found so far
Both of those bar and scraper are usually in my construction tool belt. Swedish steel is expensive but worth it. They are always called at work "Swede bars". But they must have the Swedish triple crown stamp. There is a related third tool, a Stilletto brand nail pick (either steel or titanium), with a nail head "isolator". Great for pulling finishing nails and such.
A little tiny (6") prybar--Tekton used to have a brilliant one---is one of the best EVER tools to have. I bump the corners off on a grinder to reduce that inevitable scratches if you aren't dead straight. The tool Adam really needs that I haven't seen him have yet are called alligator foreceps. Every shop should have a couple of them in various lengths. Ostensibly a medical tool, but SO useful for that one small item that NOTHING ELSE WILL REACH.
As a contractor and an EDC guy I have probably at least 12 different prying devices. From 4 feet long to 3 inches with all different kinds of ends and curves. The first bar showed there is a trim flat bar. I also sharpen mine so it will slide behind trim.
Something I have in my pry bar drawer is a tool I used while employed at Boeing. It is called a skin wedge, a small pry bar about 6 inches long with a sharpened and rounded nose. I used it almost daily and it's better than any screwdriver for getting into small items. There are many versions of it out there but the tools made for Boeing are the best.
The little guy is called a "hive tool". Everyone should have a couple of them! My current favorite is a crow's foot pry bar since it comes in handy for my job, but may not be that useful for a general maker...
My very favorite tool in this class is a big titanium crowbar that I found on Harbor Freight ~20 years ago. Wrapped it in red grip tape as an homage to Gordon Freeman and it's lived in the back of every vehicle I've owned since, it's the only tool of mine that my much better equipped father has dibs on should I predecease him.
That flat bar was my preferred tool then trying to coax insulated panels into sill channels back in my days when I built warehouse-sized coolers and freezers.
all shapes and sizes for different applications hey. I remember going overseas as a youngster and seeing a hammer my grandfather used out in the hot houses. It was oddly different from the ones i used to see in dads hands, and it blew my young mind that they can come different. also I learnt to drive in an 80's Volvo 240 GL with overdrive. haha loved that car.
My wife and I bought an 1982 Volvo 245, sky blue wagon with the backward facing seats when we got married. Had the 4 speed manual with overdrive. It had 150,000 miles when we bought it and we put another 60,000 with out issue. It was a beast.
I bought mini pry bars at Harbor Freight. They aren't the best quality, but on small jobs a little leverage is needed and they work fine. I didn't realize how often I would use them until they were on the wall in my shed---on a magnetic hanger.
Small flat bar is an essential tool for me. I have two or three in my tool bag at all times. They seem to grow feet on jobs when several trades are on sight; a more recent sad occurrence.
Old carpenter here. That little flat bar is a better scraper than pry bar. It also is useful to place behind the claws of a hammer or another prying tool to keep from digging into the drywall or denting the material. Too much pressure whilst using the short end will result in the bar creasing right through the slotted hole. Old bars were solid and could take more punishment.
My last job was water damage and mold restoration and let me tell you, there is no better tool for taking off trashed carpentry trim than that sharpened flatbar. And it is great at scraping, I have removed black molded carpet tac strip with nothing but my bare hands and that little pry bar. Actually it's so good at these things my co workers would often ask for my little pry bar because theirs were always bigger, BUT they couldn't get into the things they needed to pry apart. It's really the perfect size. Got mine for like 5 bucks for a pack of 2 at menards or something. Oh and good luck finding another pry bar that's exactly 90 degrees without that curvy hook. Sometimes you just need an L shaped bar
On the topic of Swedish prying bars, The Swedish company Hultafors makes a nifty red mini Prying bar similar to the black one you got. but it's even smaller and fits neatly in my Snickers pants leg pocket. These prybars are the best and most frequently used tool I've ever owned. My friend showed me these when we were working with door and windows installments. window needs to move 3mm to the left? push it with the bar, old. nail in the way but no hammer on you? pull it out with the bar. need to fill a crack with glue use the bar to wedge the crack open. do you need to adjust the reveal when doing trim work? use the bar.
I use mini pry bars surprisingly often. With pry bars you either need a very small one or a very large one. There's no use in the middle ground. Although I have a collection of mid sized bars too. They're just not as useful as one may think. It's the opposite ends of the spectrum that always come into play.
That's cool, I don't know if it's a regional thing, but I know the "flat bar" as a "glazing bar" but definitely one of my most used tools as a trim carpenter
That 9" flat bar is know to me as a "hive tool," used by apiarist (beekeepers) to separate hive boxes from each other and frames of comb. Just seeing it has me smelling propolis.
I think most people will miss out on that smell in their lives, I can't think of a single other that is so strongly attached to memories (for me at least). A single whiff of it takes me back to being 7-years old helping my grandmother cap and spin the honey from the combs.
Archimedes supposedly said "Give me a lever long enough, and I can move the world." With the right pry bar you can non-destructively disassemble the world, and end up with the parts to put it back together in a manner more to your liking. Non-destructive disassembly is a critically important skill for everyone from carpenters and building contractors to mechanics and makers. And the right pry bar, along with carefully selected chemicals and the judicious application of heat, can take apart artefacts that don't, at first glance, seem suited to the task. The wrecking bar is perhaps misnamed. In the right hands it doesn't "wreck." That's the speciality of sledgehammers and reciprocating saws.
While overkill, I still have my Haligan tool from when I did demo work after high school. Such an amazing multi tool and I would call it my preferred zombie killing device as well 😂
I'd like to qualify that flat bar. My first experience with one of them was as a loaner from my neighbor, who was a builder. I was in the process of remodeling my bathroom, and he forcibly inserted himself to provide knowledge and assistance [at the time unwanted, but much appreciated in almost immediate hindsight]. He lent me his flat bar, which he referred to as a scraper, and let me know at that time that if it needed sharpened, to let him know. I assure you, it did not need sharpened, it quite literally was so sharp is could have removed a finger. However, after using his, I acquired my own, and proceeded to sharpen mine to my satisfaction-it can't remove limbs, but it's sharp enough. Highly recommend for any scraping or prying needs, especially for ones with very narrow gaps.
I love the flat bar, but I always am wondering how I still haven’t slit my wrist open when using the L end, with the straight end against my forearm. It would be interesting to develop a sheath for the flat end, so you can be a little more aggressive without risking injury
Hi! The smaller one is damn close to what beekeepers use to get a hive apart. They have these in many variations. You wouldn't believe how well those tiny insects can bond everything together with wax and propolis...
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Adam, IMH, (& experienced),O most all tools are unfinished when you bring them home; be it adequate lubrication, de-burring, rounding sharp corners or modifying/tuning for peak performance. Rounding sharp corners on pry bars, particularly are a must do if you are re-using or re-purposing the materials you're taking apart. If you're not, then just chainsaw or ax the stuff & skip the work & time loss. If you are, then sharp corners are more likely to damage wood, paint or plastic. The other reason is those sharp corners & edges always seem to find the boney processes on your legs, arms, etc. The last reason leads to my 1st recommendation for turning an old, old school crow bar into a 1st choice nail puller. You surely have a wrecking/crow bar. The old school type made from hex rod w/ a big hook nail puller on one end & a flat pry bar on the other. 25+ years ago, was removing 1 x 6 ship lap sheathing from my roof, during a re-roof, w/ the intent to use it as attic flooring. Due to the angle of the roof, I kept hitting the outside of my knee w/ the flap pry end of the crow bar. Had to use it, nothing else had adequate leverage AND could pull nails. My leg was bleeding & sore, my patience & language degrading fast. Fed up, I went into my shop & cut about 6-8" of the crow bar off, cleaned the end w/ the belt sander & headed back to the roof. I cut it as long as I could & remove the curve at the flat end. Never hit my knee again & after tuning up the hook flats by making them thinner, but not necessarily sharp. I blunted them a few weeks after the thinning. (Too sharp isn't need & causes damage/injury. THIN is great.) Plenty of leverage, because you never grab the bar on the curved section, anyway. The upgrade, shortened bar is lighter & my go to when salvaging lumber w/ nails to remove. The remnant can be thinned & becomes a good hammer driven joint opener. The partner to the my shorty crow bar is an old school flat bar. Not the 2nd gen I think I saw you had. I'm talking the original Wonder Bar. First, get after all the edges & thoroughly round/soften them; easily on the hand & less damage to material. Now comes the work. A bench belt sander works belt, to keep dimensions consistent. Work over the flat end of the Wonder Bar, about 6" in. It takes time to slim it down & not reduce strength. Don't get aggressive & overheat it, it IS heat treated. Go for a long, flat angle. It took 3-4 sessions to get mine right. Just like before, dull it when done. You want thin & blunted sharp. It will let you tap it under fully bedded nails, slip between 2 boards tightly held together. It becomes a REAL wonder. To make it even better is give the 90⁰ end the same treatment, but don't go beyond the 90⁰ bend. Just make the end thin. You can gain the same benefits as the other end. The reason I don't like the gen 2 Wonder Bar is the original can be between two boards & you can pry parallel to the boards & gain much more leverage, allowing you to divide boards when nothing else will work. The last of my fav pry bars is much, much smaller. Can't be called a bar, but I use it more than the others, combined. I was fed up w/ using a knife to pry things apart. The risks were either a blood letting or chipping a chunk from your favorite blade. I went searching & ended up where I never expected, a jeweler/watchmaker tool store in Switzerland! The BEST bench pry tool you can own is a watch back removal tool. And the best there is, is a Bergeon № 4932. Hands down, best thing you'll EVER own. I've had my 1st for 15+ yrs & have since found knockoffs on eBay for 1.99. I buy them buy the knockoffs by the 10's, cause I end up giving them away. You need to own an original. The Chinese knockoffs are good, but the real deal has a Victorinix blade. Jep, the same blade a Swiss Army knife contains. Get one, you won't regret it. Happy prying... GeoD
I feel like the new lighting is already up and it looks great! If not it might just be that the shop feels much more open and the light feels much warmer. Anyhoo new tools are fun.
Hyde 45600 flat pry bar: amzn.to/3OFvI4P
20" Gransfor Bruk wrecking bar: gransforsus.com/shop/svedbro-smide-wrecking-bars/svedbro-smide-crowbars/
Adam's favorite tools: Pry Bars: th-cam.com/video/GAcFR3-CHXQ/w-d-xo.html
the Brand Gränsfors Bruk products might say they are hand forged when in reality they are mostly machine made but in a way so you have a bunch of human control over the machine doing work.
Glad you liked them. Appreciate you continually helping other people believe they can do it. -K
What font was used in those Savage stencils? It's amazing!
It’s the font of a Marsh R1 stencil machine, which I use for tool marking.
The last factory job I worked made foam filled panels for walk-in coolers and freezers. Most production workers had one of the flat bars that we called "scrapers". Since we were using them almost all shift long, we would wrap the center section with tape for padding and better grip. Scrapping excess foam, leverage, and pulling panels lose from the presses were just a few things we did with them. We needed to keep them sharp enough to scrap foam but not sharp enough to gouge the metal.
It's a very rare thing to see a celebrity exude genuine, exuberant kindness... you are a joy to watch.
I can just see K having a big smile on their face watching Adam's joy & excitement over receiving such a gift! You can tell that Adam is a (sadly) increasingly rare breed of kind-hearted, gentle soul, because he keeps receiving gifts from strangers - of like kind - that totally make his day, and are clearly calculated to do so!
The flat bar is often referred to as a beekeepers tool. It is the perfect tool to working within a hive and working with beeswax that can seal areas up. 💚♥️💚
Thank you, I was just about to post this bit of knowledge.
Ditto, I carried one around all the time even when not working with a hive as they were very handy.
Not just wax, propolis. Basically bee cement!
Commonly referred to as a "hive tool".
Mine is knife sharp and can be used as a self defense weapon, very handy in Texas.
Many people call that first tool a beekeeper bar; as a 73-year-old builder and carpenter, it was known as a sash tool; when windows were wood and had pulleys and weights, this was the tool used to remove window panels or trim to gain access to the weights or to remove and repair a glass panel. The sharp end could be slid under the trim part and loosened enough to get the other end behind it to pry it off the casing with the rounded part not leaving marks on the varnished wood. I would sometimes slide a piece of card stock under it for more protection.
Of course, they are great for many other prying tasks!
I remember those windows in an old house that I lived in. There were ropes that went down the side of the frame. At that age I never knew to check it out that there might have been weights doing something there.
@@hanslain9729 Yes, that's them. On each side near the bottom there would be a short (maybe 12") piece of wood in the casing that was mitered at a 45 degree angle with a small screw to hold it in place, when you removed it you could access the weight inside. When the sash rope breaks, you would remove the window panel, and there would be a grove in the side to accommodate the sash rope and a hole for the knot that held the rope; you would then feed the other end over the pulley at the top of the jamb down and tie it off on the weight. It was a tricky deal to get it right. That's why you saw people just put a stick under the window to hold it up!
It was a long time ago I worked on those!
If you didn't know, Grandfors Bruks Swedish hand-made axes and hatchets are legendary in the lumber / outdoor "prepper" communities.
The flat bar was something i purchased about 10 years ago in order to include it on my work bag for a very specific reason after i spent almost one hour trying to open a wooden box that was nailed shut with dozens of nails. The same day i went and bought it and thought i would rarely need it and thus left it in the bottom of the bag. It very quickly jumped up the retreivability chain of command and went outside the bag hooked between the molle straps so i can have instant access to it and used it almost daily for many different reasons. The leverage it applies once you become proficient with it is incredible and the scraping action after you sharpen it is an added bonus. Keep in mind that many people once they see it will ask you wether you are also a beekeeper. It is very often referred to as a "beehive key" rather than a pry bar in my country. The light weight, its shape and size make it very easy to carry in a tool kit or a bag. Just stuff it in a corner and it occupies practically no space and adds very little weight. Since i use a backpack for my assortment of tools this is the only pry bar that makes sense to add to my collection. Every other pry bar seems too heavy and weirdly shaped to add to an already stuffed and heavy tool bag. Some titanium small pry bars seem interesting but the cost is prohibiting and a potential critical failure under heavy load would make an adult man cry even without getting physically hurt. :p
P.S. When it seems like it cannot take a big load of weight as you're leveraging stop using it vertically and try using the L corner sideways and then you'll realise how much strength you can actually apply without bending such a lightweight tool.
Haha... when i saw the flat bar in the thumbnail i actually got very excited but i feel that this is a safe space for me to geek out over a pry bar and judging by the rest of the comments i feel like i'm not alone here lol. Such a simple and cheap tool yet so useful. Best money i ever spent.
ROI for sure!
I’m a finish carpenter, I believe beekeepers also use the lil flat bar. One of my favorites of all time.
Have a small flat bar similar in size to that one that I inherited from my dad. One of his favorite and most used tools and now it's one of mine as well.
As a carpenter I've always has the black steel 9½" flat bar for trim work. As a mechanic I like the Titan 11509 9¼" stainless steel version better. They can both have their uses and stack neatly together in the drawer.
I grew up on a honey bee farm, and I have had a "hive tool" aka flat bar since I was about 12. When my father retired we had one chrome plated and engraved for him. I have one in my memory case.
In Swedish "wrecking bar" are called "Kofot" translating to "cows foot", or sometime jokingly "master key".
In Spanish is similar, “pata de cabra” or (goat’s leg)
and in French it's "Pied de biche" --> Deer Foot
Huvudnyckeln är väl bultsaxen annars. 😅
Another name in English for a small one with a nail puller on one end and pry bar on the other end, is a cat’s paw. They are great for removing trim and moulding.
In Finnish it's "Cows shoe" (lehmän kenkä) while master key is also used. Sledgehammer is called "fine tuner" or "fine tuning hammer" (hienosäätövasara).
Adam, you are a national treasure. Thank you for always presenting positive vibes and maintaining a sense of wonder about the world. You've been inspiring me and others for so long i just wanted to say thank you.
My Gränsfors Bruk axe was a real luxury purchase and I get a real tingle every time I use it. Beautiful company making beautiful tools.
The flat bar is the most important tool in my day to day job. I simply could not do my job without it.
I found the glory of the flat bar several years ago. They are one of the most handy tools you can have.
been using them for years, as a finish trim carpenter i always kept two in my bag all times
Correct. 100% correct. Can't live without them, but also include the Japanese nail remover, it's small, and cupped, which is what makes it special, has offset end, and completes the set.
If you are talking about the Shark brand nail pullers, I second the motion.
I have a estwing nail puller it's made in Japan oddly enough and it's a nail ejector.
Both of those bars are in my tool collection, and I can confirm they are among the best bars Ive ever had the pleasure of using. For intended purpose, as scrapers, levers, etc, the quality and feel on my hand of both tools far exceeds my other traditionally design flatbars and pry bars
I have a variation of that Hyde flat bar, made by Red Devil, bought in '92... Absolutely love it and swear by it! Still have it today after 20 years in the Army and 10 years of self employment! LOVE it.
That Wrecking bar was my bread and butter when i used to work Demolition. So glad to see them getting some love.
We always used what's called a shoe bar doing demo work. They're about 3 or so feet long with a right angle bend of a few inches on the end of them. So you could punch the head through sheetrock then rip it out. The rip action is used a lot with it. Or you can swing it like a club. For say kicking out studs. Swing and rip.
The amusement Adam gets from small things such as moving through the cave on a chair with wheels in one take is something that brings joy to my heart.
It's a kids like satisfaction of knowing a instant idea of "this might work" work...lol
That pry bar is the most iconic "hive tool" used by beekeepers all over the world.
and for that reason it smells really nice
I thought that is what it was from the thumbnail. I've used it in siding repair, and it is amazing at prying apart vinyl siding without breaking it or scratching it.
The moment I saw the small flat bar I had to watch. I freakin love those guys. I have several, and I gave my dad a few too because they rock! Also, Granfors Bruk make excellent axes, but I was unaware they made other tools, so now I have to have them! 😂
I discovered the flat bar in the 70's painting houses, would grind the bent end to match the shape on siding and used them to scrape paint. I have more than a dozen of them now, different brands and slightly different sizes. Excellent for removing trim and opening old double hung windows. One lives in my tool bag at all times
When I was painting Victorians in San Francisco in the 80's, we used Hyde pry bars for many things... opening stuck windows, scraping burnt paint (yes, we burned off layers of too-thick old paint back then), light hammering, you name it. A fine modification is to wrap the middle with a few layers of quality Gaffer's tape for better grip and to absorb shock and vibration. Very easy to keep them sharp, and they simply do.not.break, and I have two in my home shop still today.
As a mechanic I find I rarely need a prybar in either of those shapes. For scraping I have a razor blade scraper and a wrecking knife with a chisel tip.
However I do use those podgy bars, which are those ones with a tapered end and a roll head, all the time and they make my life so much easier. I have them in all shapes from 3” up to 36”.
I also have a gearwrench 36” indexing roll head bar, which may be large for your uses, but they make the 16” variety which would be perfect for your needs.
But the prybar I use most and grab every time something needs prying is my pocket prybar from snapon, with the straight head. It’s a flat blade screwdriver, but durable enough I can jam it into a crevice and trust it enough I can stand on it with my full weight. And it’s made using the same steel that goes into the full sized snap-on prybars.
Before I got that prybar I only had my pocket knife, and out of curiosity kept a tally for a week on what I used the knife for on a regular basis. 9 times out of 10 I was using it to pry something.
I have a flat bar that is bent in the shape of the Swedish wrecking bar which rocks. Its overall length is about 16 inches. The hive tool is one of the best things in my tool box and bee yard. Love your stuff. !!!
Black flat bar is a hive tool beekeepers use all the time. We also use them for many other things.
I have the same small Flat Bar and I can attest to it being used as a scraper. The right angle side works like a paint scraper on flaking paint, varnish and the like. The wide fine taper of the bar lets you separate fine trim without damaging it.👍
Have to agree pry bar is the master key of life ! Right tool for the right job ,or application is true here also . I did tons of rehab on old houses with double hung windows , when they were painted shut for years I would use the small flat bar to help get the sections to move .of course you cut the old paint with a razor knife first. What a great tool !….
Gransford Bruks also makes some of the best backpacking drop-forge axes in the world. I waited 2 years for my 19-inch small forest axe which I take on short hiking trips. Best affordable quality, and an heirloom piece. Not sure if we can describe prybars as heirloom quality, but if we can--you now have a good one. Enjoy!
1:38 Flat bar, hive tool (essential for working in an apiary. With two of these you could pry a skyscraper out of the ground. Most useful tool there is. I make lunch with mine when working on something.
The first one is great for trim and siding. I had no idea Gransfors made more than axes, but that makes sense; I remember bending a large wrecking bar that was clearly not made of high enough quality steel.
I've broken many of each type..I call that little one a window bar. Good for centering the window in the opening and pick it up to be level in the opening
On pry bars, a Restorer's Cat's Paw from Lee Valley Tools is one the best. I have five variations of it in my basement. It's great for removing small or stubborn nails and is indispensable for prying delicate things like molding. It is my recommendation for home repair pry bars.
I was going to say the same thing. It’s perfect for gently prying apart joints with little or no damage and works well for removing trim and mouldings.
I especially recommend the Gransfor Bruk hand axes. Before arthritis took me , I would use their big carving axe to make spoons... from splitting a chunk off a small log to the finished surface with the one tool never leaving my hand until I had to grab a gouge for hollowing the bowl. Beautiful tools of the highest quality.
I have one of those flat bars in my pants right now. Scraping spray foam off of studs and pulling staples with it. Sharpen it once in a while and its a great tool
Being a current Volvo owner (2005 V70) and having ALWAYS been a super fan of the 245 DL, this video speaks volumes to me. Fun facts about Volvo 1) The name Volvo means "I roll" which was a reference to the original company. They made iron ball bearings before they made cars. 2) The logo for Volvo is an ancient chemical symbol for iron. So...Swedish IRON is accurate!
Pry bar, flat bar, etc have so many uses. When made of good steel they are, like most things, more enjoyable to use.
I have that Hyde flat bar, purchased circa 1987. It is one of the most-used tools in my bag, and of course I've had to file it and sharpen it numerous times over the years, usually after abusing it somehow. Remarkably, it still has some of the original black finish after some 37 years. I'm almost certain I bought it at the Sunnyvale Home Depot (the original one, not where it stands today), and I remember going crazy trying to find it in the tool department, only to learn that it was instead stocked in the paint department.
Pulled a 6" flat bar out of a construction dumpster a few years back and cleaned some schmoo off of it and it's been really great. Haven't sharpened it though, which is now on my list.
the first tool , Flat bar .. looks the same as the beekeepers tool i've been using for years.... and yeah it's the finest scraper / flexible pry bar i've found so far
Both of those bar and scraper are usually in my construction tool belt.
Swedish steel is expensive but worth it.
They are always called at work "Swede bars".
But they must have the Swedish triple crown stamp.
There is a related third tool, a Stilletto brand nail pick (either steel or titanium), with a nail head "isolator". Great for pulling finishing nails and such.
A little tiny (6") prybar--Tekton used to have a brilliant one---is one of the best EVER tools to have. I bump the corners off on a grinder to reduce that inevitable scratches if you aren't dead straight.
The tool Adam really needs that I haven't seen him have yet are called alligator foreceps. Every shop should have a couple of them in various lengths. Ostensibly a medical tool, but SO useful for that one small item that NOTHING ELSE WILL REACH.
He has one, but yeah great tool
As a contractor and an EDC guy I have probably at least 12 different prying devices. From 4 feet long to 3 inches with all different kinds of ends and curves. The first bar showed there is a trim flat bar. I also sharpen mine so it will slide behind trim.
As a swede myself I agree regarding the swedish wrecking bar! S-tier!
I own both of them several “flat” bars
And a 52” wrecking bar and yes when you need to move or lift something it will do the job
Yes the flat bar is what I use for bee keeping. It is an excellent pry bar for that purpose.
The flat bar is a favorite of mine for removing trim on remodeling jobs
I love the varying view of the cave. It's fun to have other angles.
Something I have in my pry bar drawer is a tool I used while employed at Boeing. It is called a skin wedge, a small pry bar about 6 inches long with a sharpened and rounded nose. I used it almost daily and it's better than any screwdriver for getting into small items. There are many versions of it out there but the tools made for Boeing are the best.
The little guy is called a "hive tool". Everyone should have a couple of them! My current favorite is a crow's foot pry bar since it comes in handy for my job, but may not be that useful for a general maker...
As someone in industrial maintenance, all sorts of prybars and hammers are awesome.
My very favorite tool in this class is a big titanium crowbar that I found on Harbor Freight ~20 years ago. Wrapped it in red grip tape as an homage to Gordon Freeman and it's lived in the back of every vehicle I've owned since, it's the only tool of mine that my much better equipped father has dibs on should I predecease him.
That flat bar was my preferred tool then trying to coax insulated panels into sill channels back in my days when I built warehouse-sized coolers and freezers.
all shapes and sizes for different applications hey. I remember going overseas as a youngster and seeing a hammer my grandfather used out in the hot houses. It was oddly different from the ones i used to see in dads hands, and it blew my young mind that they can come different. also I learnt to drive in an 80's Volvo 240 GL with overdrive. haha loved that car.
My wife and I bought an 1982 Volvo 245, sky blue wagon with the backward facing seats when we got married. Had the 4 speed manual with overdrive. It had 150,000 miles when we bought it and we put another 60,000 with out issue. It was a beast.
Pre-customized and tested tools are the best
I bought mini pry bars at Harbor Freight. They aren't the best quality, but on small jobs a little leverage is needed and they work fine. I didn't realize how often I would use them until they were on the wall in my shed---on a magnetic hanger.
Sleever bars, and form bars are some of my favorites
Small flat bar is an essential tool for me. I have two or three in my tool bag at all times. They seem to grow feet on jobs when several trades are on sight; a more recent sad occurrence.
All the axes I take camping are from Gransfors-bruks. Their small forest axe is glorious and a favorite of Ray Mears also. They’re amazing tools.
Old carpenter here. That little flat bar is a better scraper than pry bar. It also is useful to place behind the claws of a hammer or another prying tool to keep from digging into the drywall or denting the material. Too much pressure whilst using the short end will result in the bar creasing right through the slotted hole. Old bars were solid and could take more punishment.
My last job was water damage and mold restoration and let me tell you, there is no better tool for taking off trashed carpentry trim than that sharpened flatbar. And it is great at scraping, I have removed black molded carpet tac strip with nothing but my bare hands and that little pry bar. Actually it's so good at these things my co workers would often ask for my little pry bar because theirs were always bigger, BUT they couldn't get into the things they needed to pry apart. It's really the perfect size. Got mine for like 5 bucks for a pack of 2 at menards or something. Oh and good luck finding another pry bar that's exactly 90 degrees without that curvy hook. Sometimes you just need an L shaped bar
There is a tool for removing trim called a molding bar. I have a Stanley 55-116 But I have little bitty flat bars I use too.
In Swedish they are called a ”cows foot”. Gränsfors makes wonderful axes as well!
That first black prybar is a beekeepers hive tool!
Was going to say, It's a hive tool. Although I use hive tools for more than just beehives.
I love that I remember that ad copy from the Moly-Dee vid that Adam did years ago: “made by Nature and the skill of Man”… so ‘50s!
My first car after I left home was also a Volvo. A 1982 244 GL. I got a sedan because I thought, at the time, that wagons weren't cool. I was young.
On the topic of Swedish prying bars, The Swedish company Hultafors makes a nifty red mini Prying bar similar to the black one you got. but it's even smaller and fits neatly in my Snickers pants leg pocket. These prybars are the best and most frequently used tool I've ever owned. My friend showed me these when we were working with door and windows installments. window needs to move 3mm to the left? push it with the bar, old. nail in the way but no hammer on you? pull it out with the bar. need to fill a crack with glue use the bar to wedge the crack open. do you need to adjust the reveal when doing trim work? use the bar.
I was recently introduced to the "Trim remover". Changed my life.
I used mini pry bars for so many things, lifting 80lbs bricks out of pizza ovens, as a door stop,....a plum bob, even as a "chisel".
I use mini pry bars surprisingly often. With pry bars you either need a very small one or a very large one. There's no use in the middle ground. Although I have a collection of mid sized bars too. They're just not as useful as one may think. It's the opposite ends of the spectrum that always come into play.
Gransfor Bruk also makes the best small forest axe, imho. It does not surprise me they mastered the pry bar as well.
I have a dewalt 24” pry bar, a 10” flat bar, and an indexing pry by Crescent … I keep them near my Milwaukee 3lb mallet. I call them “The persuaders”
That's cool, I don't know if it's a regional thing, but I know the "flat bar" as a "glazing bar" but definitely one of my most used tools as a trim carpenter
That 9" flat bar is know to me as a "hive tool," used by apiarist (beekeepers) to separate hive boxes from each other and frames of comb. Just seeing it has me smelling propolis.
I think most people will miss out on that smell in their lives, I can't think of a single other that is so strongly attached to memories (for me at least).
A single whiff of it takes me back to being 7-years old helping my grandmother cap and spin the honey from the combs.
Archimedes supposedly said "Give me a lever long enough, and I can move the world."
With the right pry bar you can non-destructively disassemble the world, and end up with the parts to put it back together in a manner more to your liking.
Non-destructive disassembly is a critically important skill for everyone from carpenters and building contractors to mechanics and makers. And the right pry bar, along with carefully selected chemicals and the judicious application of heat, can take apart artefacts that don't, at first glance, seem suited to the task.
The wrecking bar is perhaps misnamed. In the right hands it doesn't "wreck." That's the speciality of sledgehammers and reciprocating saws.
Adam Savage drooling over new tools.... I love it every single time. ;)
I have a killer Gearwrench expendable indexing prybar
Love it
While overkill, I still have my Haligan tool from when I did demo work after high school. Such an amazing multi tool and I would call it my preferred zombie killing device as well 😂
Looking forward to meeting you in Vancouver on the weekend. Love your version prybar multi tool.
I bought 3 smaller cheaper bars and ground 2 of them to sharper and thinner variants as well, really nice under certain conditions.
I'd like to qualify that flat bar. My first experience with one of them was as a loaner from my neighbor, who was a builder. I was in the process of remodeling my bathroom, and he forcibly inserted himself to provide knowledge and assistance [at the time unwanted, but much appreciated in almost immediate hindsight]. He lent me his flat bar, which he referred to as a scraper, and let me know at that time that if it needed sharpened, to let him know. I assure you, it did not need sharpened, it quite literally was so sharp is could have removed a finger. However, after using his, I acquired my own, and proceeded to sharpen mine to my satisfaction-it can't remove limbs, but it's sharp enough. Highly recommend for any scraping or prying needs, especially for ones with very narrow gaps.
Reminds me of the Dasco Pro Pry bars.
For the flat small scraper, use the other end at 90° to scrape not the pointyend
I think I spotted your cresent nail puller. Quite the handy nail puller, as well.
I love the flat bar, but I always am wondering how I still haven’t slit my wrist open when using the L end, with the straight end against my forearm. It would be interesting to develop a sheath for the flat end, so you can be a little more aggressive without risking injury
Hi! The smaller one is damn close to what beekeepers use to get a hive apart. They have these in many variations. You wouldn't believe how well those tiny insects can bond everything together with wax and propolis...
Gransfors bruks also makes the best axes in the world I have a few and they are beautiful pieces of craftsmanship
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Adam, IMH, (& experienced),O most all tools are unfinished when you bring them home; be it adequate lubrication, de-burring, rounding sharp corners or modifying/tuning for peak performance.
Rounding sharp corners on pry bars, particularly are a must do if you are re-using or re-purposing the materials you're taking apart. If you're not, then just chainsaw or ax the stuff & skip the work & time loss.
If you are, then sharp corners are more likely to damage wood, paint or plastic. The other reason is those sharp corners & edges always seem to find the boney processes on your legs, arms, etc.
The last reason leads to my 1st recommendation for turning an old, old school crow bar into a 1st choice nail puller.
You surely have a wrecking/crow bar. The old school type made from hex rod w/ a big hook nail puller on one end & a flat pry bar on the other.
25+ years ago, was removing 1 x 6 ship lap sheathing from my roof, during a re-roof, w/ the intent to use it as attic flooring. Due to the angle of the roof, I kept hitting the outside of my knee w/ the flap pry end of the crow bar. Had to use it, nothing else had adequate leverage AND could pull nails.
My leg was bleeding & sore, my patience & language degrading fast. Fed up, I went into my shop & cut about 6-8" of the crow bar off, cleaned the end w/ the belt sander & headed back to the roof.
I cut it as long as I could & remove the curve at the flat end.
Never hit my knee again & after tuning up the hook flats by making them thinner, but not necessarily sharp. I blunted them a few weeks after the thinning. (Too sharp isn't need & causes damage/injury. THIN is great.)
Plenty of leverage, because you never grab the bar on the curved section, anyway. The upgrade, shortened bar is lighter & my go to when salvaging lumber w/ nails to remove.
The remnant can be thinned & becomes a good hammer driven joint opener.
The partner to the my shorty crow bar is an old school flat bar. Not the 2nd gen I think I saw you had. I'm talking the original Wonder Bar.
First, get after all the edges & thoroughly round/soften them; easily on the hand & less damage to material.
Now comes the work. A bench belt sander works belt, to keep dimensions consistent. Work over the flat end of the Wonder Bar, about 6" in. It takes time to slim it down & not reduce strength. Don't get aggressive & overheat it, it IS heat treated.
Go for a long, flat angle. It took 3-4 sessions to get mine right. Just like before, dull it when done. You want thin & blunted sharp.
It will let you tap it under fully bedded nails, slip between 2 boards tightly held together. It becomes a REAL wonder.
To make it even better is give the 90⁰ end the same treatment, but don't go beyond the 90⁰ bend. Just make the end thin. You can gain the same benefits as the other end.
The reason I don't like the gen 2 Wonder Bar is the original can be between two boards & you can pry parallel to the boards & gain much more leverage, allowing you to divide boards when nothing else will work.
The last of my fav pry bars is much, much smaller. Can't be called a bar, but I use it more than the others, combined.
I was fed up w/ using a knife to pry things apart. The risks were either a blood letting or chipping a chunk from your favorite blade.
I went searching & ended up where I never expected, a jeweler/watchmaker tool store in Switzerland!
The BEST bench pry tool you can own is a watch back removal tool.
And the best there is, is a Bergeon № 4932. Hands down, best thing you'll EVER own.
I've had my 1st for 15+ yrs & have since found knockoffs on eBay for 1.99. I buy them buy the knockoffs by the 10's, cause I end up giving them away.
You need to own an original. The Chinese knockoffs are good, but the real deal has a Victorinix blade. Jep, the same blade a Swiss Army knife contains.
Get one, you won't regret it.
Happy prying...
GeoD
Gränsfors Bruk make lovely axes too!
Come with me as we go... "TO THE PRYBAR SHELF!" 😝
The Swedish wrecking bar comes in a smaller 11" version that is golden! The Swedish wrecking bar regardless of size purchased is excellent.
I feel like the new lighting is already up and it looks great! If not it might just be that the shop feels much more open and the light feels much warmer. Anyhoo new tools are fun.
The lighting isn’t up yet, but soon!
@@tested Must just be that the space is more open. Still, looking good.
fun video!! small pry bars and different utility knives are my favorite tools to collect!
I love the dolly shot!
Gränsfors Bruks make some mighty fine axes too