I paid a guy to do this in my driveway to my car. Some things I noticed was that he used a heat gun to gently warm the surface of the vehicle before he applied the coolers. He said it keeps the paint from cracking and helps the glue stick to the vehicle. He also saturated the glue with the rubbing alcohol heavily before removing it. It just popped right off. He paid more attention to spring it on the car so it could run under it. One other thing I noticed is all of his pool tabs he had taken a knife and scored crosshatching across them to help the glue here. Between these and a bunch of crazy long liver bars he took about 40 hail dents out of my truck. You would never know they were ever there. I remove the interior and some panels to save money and the whole job cost me 300 bucks The thing I found most impressive is when he removed a dent all the way at the front of my bed through my tail light with this crazy long bar. It was super fun to watch.
PDR systems are amazing, but it takes a LOT of practice to become proficient with them. I watched a pro at my workplace use them and I was impressed with the results. He had been doing his own PDR business for many years and knew all tricks. He did tell me that there are, of course, limits of how much of a dent you can "coax" out of a panel. I watched him "coax" out a side-swipe of a bumper on a car door (about 10" long x 3" wide x 1/2" deep and when he was finished, you couldn't tell it was ever damaged.
They are magicians! Our guy retired he was IMO quite good, quick too, watching him and then trying one or two here and there I'm like how did he do that LOL
My first time turned out like yours - - - I picked up some black glue sticks and it worked perfectly. I had $2500 worth of damage damage to my wife's car on a door; completed all the work and in three hours, more than happy with the results - - - bought my PDR kit on Amazon for less than 64 bucks. Thank God nobody was filming my first attempt! Good luck, by the way alcohol was the release agent recommended to be used my kit…
@@autoauctionfinds I also purchased an induction PDR dent remover from Amazon - - - I have yet to use it but everything from TH-cam suggested it is amazing, the device is around 200 - - - good luck
70% rubbing alcohol is the release agent. Put it in a squirt bottle and give it a little spritz. Works like a charm. The knock down tool is your friend. It's rare you can glue pull a ding to perfectly level. Some spots will go slightly high, which isn't a bad thing. Light BUT precise taps with the knock down tool will make things disappear if done well.
I had been looking for any kit at Harbor Freight for a couple of years. The shelf for them was always empty. Last week this kit was on the shelf and I finally could buy one. Opened it up and the "release agent" bottle wasn't screwed on tight and the bottle was empty. Was wondering if it was alcohol or not.@@autoauctionfinds
Did fiberglass repairs on bathtubs for over 20 years, one thing I told every customer you will always see the repair. The object of any repair is someone who doesn't know it's been repaired doesn't see it. My standard was can it be seen from three feet by me. Paintless Dent Repair doesn't have the problem because there's no color matching. Some people's really have impossible expectations.
Acetone would not be a release agent, it's used to remove any trace of wax or oils in order to make sure the hot-melt "glue", (Which actually is a thermo-set bonding adhesive), will stick to the painted surface. It will weaken & dissolve the "glue" enough to break the bond in order to remove the pad and adhesive from the paint. I've used a heat-gun set on low (or a hair dryer will work) to soften the adhesive also. DO NOT apply too much heat to the plastic pads or paint. They could be damaged or melted. With new bonding pads, there will be mold release coatings (more than likely a dry silicone spray) on the pads from the manufacturing process which needs to be removed for a good bond also. That is why the glue didn't stick to the pad. Because of the small surface area of the smaller pads, I've found drilling a few 3/32 holes on the face of the pads, close to and around the center of the small pads to help strengthen the bond. Do so at your own risk. You don't want to weaken the pads too much. Don't go too deep.
Awesome! Thank you so much for the tips and info! Never gave it a thought about the coating on the plastic, kinda like a plastic model car kit, you have to wash it to get the mold release off b4 paint
You can tell that you didn't grow up around lots of girls /women, or you would never forget the smell of acetone, bc once you walk into a room & they are removing their color from their nails, you'll know that smell, it's one of those unforgettable smells!
heat the area with a hair dryer. Use more fineness when leveraging the tool, instead of one pull, try smaller pulls that don't dislodge the peg from the glow, repeat as necessary.
They have kits (basically pads and glue and some kind of leverage mechanism) for about $20-30. These kits are functionally similar, and exactly as effective. Biggest problem I see in this vid is that the glue-on pad MUST be smaller than the dent.. A lot smaller is much better than the tiniest bit bigger than the depression
Very interesting. Makes total sense too. The way I'm doing it I'm pulling the metal around the dent as well witch is not accomplishing anything! Thank you @RetiredSignDude !
Thank you for this video! I look like the adhesion between tab and glue was poor for some reason. Idk maybe the tab surface should be cleaned too since it could contain some grease from the factory. Or maybe that particular glue was weak... On the various videos that I watched people were using squeeze puller and slide hammer several times before tab came off the shell (they used different tabs and different glue there)...
On the first dent, I thought you sprayed "release agent" on the area first, wiped it off, then applied the glue tab. The "release agent" might have kept the tab from bonding as tight as it should have. I'd try something like alcohol to clean the area, wipe it off and let it dry for five minutes, then glue on the pull tab. At H F it's a grab bag. Sometimes you win, sometimes you don't. Not sure if their products are fully field tested before they hit the shelf. In their early days some tools would break the first time they were used.
I did, it told me to do so in the instructions, I'm learning the pull tabs need to be "seasond" the new ones don't like to bite but the ones I used over and over work great
ALL BE DIPPED 😊 Reminds me of my grandparents from up north pop's side in Wisconsin, mom's side in Michigan this gma would also say Pete's sake and off duh too lol. I guess that it was a northern thing lol bc I'm west Texas born and bread ❤🎉
This first dent gave you some grief. You polished the area first with the buffer. My personal belief is that the buffing wax made the glue not hold. Just my guess.
Possible, I don't know but I cleaned the surface afterwards with alcohol so it was a naked surface, done several dents after this video with the kit without buffing the surface and it sticks much better!
it would seem that adequate adhesive drying time is critical. try a 4 1/2 minute cure time to see what happens. Another thought is to get some adhesive from on of the other (higher end?) PDR companies and see how it works. I appreciate the efforts and your video.
I will definitely give it a go!, I used it on a Hyundai Elantra a couple days ago with hail damage and overpulled several, tapped em down gave it a buff ended up working great, I would have loved to film it but time is tight
Don’t waste time watching the video he never figures out how to use it properly. I found this video to be a waste of time. Someone demonstrated a tool that they cannot use properly or get desired results from, but mostly seems to be user error. So, I spent 20 minutes watching someone trying to figure something out which they didn’t. I’d be better off driving to HF and figuring it out myself. However, the comment section is helpful.
If you listen to the video all the way through, he does tell you that for this particular dent it wasn’t ideal, but he was able to get dents out of the hood on another vehicle and overall, it was a helpful video. I just purchased this and it looks like it works better than not. The fact that he took the time to record this is so appreciated.
It's a naked surface, I did polish it but I wiped all of the oils from the polishing off with 3 things, Alcohol, WGR, and the prep supplied, why won't it stick to a clean naked surface and only a dirty one?
You can't get a small crease out like that with that kind of tool (that's what I'm calling that spot indentation there). I'm not a body shop guy, but am familiar with science, metal stresses, etc. You're on a curved surface with some possible doubling over of metal there for structural integrity. For bigger areas, you have to consider whether you can pop it all at once, or work it in sections from the outside in. But it's really important to understand metal stresses to have your expectations be reasonable. For instance, on a corner, a deep crease has to counteract the metal supporting the inward crease, and you have to overcome getting that fixed surface of metal to open the area up, and expand, letting the metal come back up. Some guys use rounded rods with different bends and find a place to leverage against, with the rounded point on the backside of the metal and you slowly work from the outside in. I had that done years ago when I had a rear tailgate of a van creased inwards from something (don't remember now, what, but it shattered the back glass too). He went in via a hole he drilled on the side of the tail gate, and leveraging the tough metal there. He put in a rubber seal after wards. I was amazed at what he was able to do. So no one "trick" to solve all the problems. Don't get down on yourself. Good try!
Thank you! Was such a small ding 😆 , I ended up tapping the crown down and a coat of glaze took care of it, still making the video on repainting the car
Make sure the surface is clean, glue has to be hot, then wait at least 5mins for those glue. I’m sure the kit work. But the hot glue is not PDR hot glue. Those glue is like dollars, if you buy real PDR glue, they can even pull 400 plus lb without coming off 😂
@ThatGuyFromArizona honestly felt like deleting this video SEVERAL times but didn't because it did help a few, I will say to this day I have yet to get the supplied glue to stick, all different scenarios
Consider editing your videos before posting them. This was mind numbing listening to you talk the about process to yourself. I was ready to bail out after five minutes, hung in there for the first failure at 13 and a half minutes. Then I quit. I'm moving on to a video that says it is 3 minutes long. Try editing.
It does, be prepared if it's your first time, I overpulled alot but that's what the knockdown tools are for, take your time as every tap does move metal
I paid a guy to do this in my driveway to my car. Some things I noticed was that he used a heat gun to gently warm the surface of the vehicle before he applied the coolers. He said it keeps the paint from cracking and helps the glue stick to the vehicle. He also saturated the glue with the rubbing alcohol heavily before removing it. It just popped right off. He paid more attention to spring it on the car so it could run under it. One other thing I noticed is all of his pool tabs he had taken a knife and scored crosshatching across them to help the glue here. Between these and a bunch of crazy long liver bars he took about 40 hail dents out of my truck. You would never know they were ever there. I remove the interior and some panels to save money and the whole job cost me 300 bucks The thing I found most impressive is when he removed a dent all the way at the front of my bed through my tail light with this crazy long bar. It was super fun to watch.
They are definitely artist of their trade!
Didnt let the glue dry long enough
PDR systems are amazing, but it takes a LOT of practice to become proficient with them. I watched a pro at my workplace use them and I was impressed with the results.
He had been doing his own PDR business for many years and knew all tricks. He did tell me that there are, of course, limits of how much of a dent you can "coax" out of a panel. I watched him "coax" out a side-swipe of a bumper on a car door (about 10" long x 3" wide x 1/2" deep and when he was finished, you couldn't tell it was ever damaged.
They are magicians! Our guy retired he was IMO quite good, quick too, watching him and then trying one or two here and there I'm like how did he do that LOL
My first time turned out like yours - - - I picked up some black glue sticks and it worked perfectly. I had $2500 worth of damage damage to my wife's car on a door; completed all the work and in three hours, more than happy with the results - - - bought my PDR kit on Amazon for less than 64 bucks. Thank God nobody was filming my first attempt! Good luck, by the way alcohol was the release agent recommended to be used my kit…
Much appreciated, if it wasn't such a pain I would edit the video for the alcohol, gonna try the black sticks and give it a go!
@@autoauctionfinds I also purchased an induction PDR dent remover from Amazon - - - I have yet to use it but everything from TH-cam suggested it is amazing, the device is around 200 - - - good luck
70% rubbing alcohol is the release agent. Put it in a squirt bottle and give it a little spritz. Works like a charm. The knock down tool is your friend. It's rare you can glue pull a ding to perfectly level. Some spots will go slightly high, which isn't a bad thing. Light BUT precise taps with the knock down tool will make things disappear if done well.
Was working on one today was wondering what I was doing wrong because every ding I was overpulling and had to knock them back down, THANK YOU!
I had been looking for any kit at Harbor Freight for a couple of years. The shelf for them was always empty. Last week this kit was on the shelf and I finally could buy one. Opened it up and the "release agent" bottle wasn't screwed on tight and the bottle was empty. Was wondering if it was alcohol or not.@@autoauctionfinds
Did fiberglass repairs on bathtubs for over 20 years, one thing I told every customer you will always see the repair. The object of any repair is someone who doesn't know it's been repaired doesn't see it. My standard was can it be seen from three feet by me. Paintless Dent Repair doesn't have the problem because there's no color matching. Some people's really have impossible expectations.
That would be me, progress not perfection I hear all the time
Acetone would not be a release agent, it's used to remove any trace of wax or oils in order to make sure the hot-melt "glue", (Which actually is a thermo-set bonding adhesive), will stick to the painted surface. It will weaken & dissolve the "glue" enough to break the bond in order to remove the pad and adhesive from the paint. I've used a heat-gun set on low (or a hair dryer will work) to soften the adhesive also. DO NOT apply too much heat to the plastic pads or paint. They could be damaged or melted.
With new bonding pads, there will be mold release coatings (more than likely a dry silicone spray) on the pads from the manufacturing process which needs to be removed for a good bond also. That is why the glue didn't stick to the pad.
Because of the small surface area of the smaller pads, I've found drilling a few 3/32 holes on the face of the pads, close to and around the center of the small pads to help strengthen the bond. Do so at your own risk. You don't want to weaken the pads too much. Don't go too deep.
Awesome! Thank you so much for the tips and info! Never gave it a thought about the coating on the plastic, kinda like a plastic model car kit, you have to wash it to get the mold release off b4 paint
You can tell that you didn't grow up around lots of girls /women, or you would never forget the smell of acetone, bc once you walk into a room & they are removing their color from their nails, you'll know that smell, it's one of those unforgettable smells!
3 boys, 1 girl LOL
heat the area with a hair dryer. Use more fineness when leveraging the tool, instead of one pull, try smaller pulls that don't dislodge the peg from the glow, repeat as necessary.
Pdr guys usually use a tool to push on the dent from the inside and then pull it using different attachments
Instead of squeezing hard try pulsing the handle and watch the metal flex. I've seen dents nearby come out.
They have kits (basically pads and glue and some kind of leverage mechanism) for about $20-30. These kits are functionally similar, and exactly as effective. Biggest problem I see in this vid is that the glue-on pad MUST be smaller than the dent.. A lot smaller is much better than the tiniest bit bigger than the depression
Very interesting. Makes total sense too. The way I'm doing it I'm pulling the metal around the dent as well witch is not accomplishing anything! Thank you @RetiredSignDude !
thank god for fast-fwd - thanks for the video!
Amen brother
I use play speed 2×
What glue gun / glue did you use? Which glue is recommended? Don’t know much about hot glue. Thanks.
Thank you for this video! I look like the adhesion between tab and glue was poor for some reason. Idk maybe the tab surface should be cleaned too since it could contain some grease from the factory. Or maybe that particular glue was weak... On the various videos that I watched people were using squeeze puller and slide hammer several times before tab came off the shell (they used different tabs and different glue there)...
On the first dent, I thought you sprayed "release agent" on the area first, wiped it off, then applied the glue tab. The "release agent" might have kept the tab from bonding as tight as it should have.
I'd try something like alcohol to clean the area, wipe it off and let it dry for five minutes, then glue on the pull tab.
At H F it's a grab bag. Sometimes you win, sometimes you don't. Not sure if their products are fully field tested before they hit the shelf. In their early days some tools would break the first time they were used.
I did, it told me to do so in the instructions, I'm learning the pull tabs need to be "seasond" the new ones don't like to bite but the ones I used over and over work great
Great review. Thank you.
I’ve learned a lot more in the comments than I did in the video! So thank you all for the comments.
It is a very good idea to write “top” on the top of the toolbox. I do it. I also write the name of the tool on the side of the box.
14:05, can confirm you're a Vice Grip Garage fan too, thanks for sharing this with us. I've been looking at these and others alot lately.
I didn't even realize I said it 🤣🤣🤣, well worth the money imo
ALL BE DIPPED 😊 Reminds me of my grandparents from up north pop's side in Wisconsin, mom's side in Michigan this gma would also say Pete's sake and off duh too lol. I guess that it was a northern thing lol bc I'm west Texas born and bread ❤🎉
This first dent gave you some grief. You polished the area first with the buffer. My personal belief is that the buffing wax made the glue not hold. Just my guess.
Possible, I don't know but I cleaned the surface afterwards with alcohol so it was a naked surface, done several dents after this video with the kit without buffing the surface and it sticks much better!
it would seem that adequate adhesive drying time is critical. try a 4 1/2 minute cure time to see what happens. Another thought is to get some adhesive from on of the other (higher end?) PDR companies and see how it works. I appreciate the efforts and your video.
I will definitely give it a go!, I used it on a Hyundai Elantra a couple days ago with hail damage and overpulled several, tapped em down gave it a buff ended up working great, I would have loved to film it but time is tight
I wonder if heating the metal would help those smaller areas
I thought the same, does not let the glue fully cure, ended up more or less making a mess
Don’t waste time watching the video he never figures out how to use it properly. I found this video to be a waste of time. Someone demonstrated a tool that they cannot use properly or get desired results from, but mostly seems to be user error. So, I spent 20 minutes watching someone trying to figure something out which they didn’t. I’d be better off driving to HF and figuring it out myself. However, the comment section is helpful.
If you listen to the video all the way through, he does tell you that for this particular dent it wasn’t ideal, but he was able to get dents out of the hood on another vehicle and overall, it was a helpful video. I just purchased this and it looks like it works better than not. The fact that he took the time to record this is so appreciated.
You polished it so how is it supposed to stick to the paint?
It's a naked surface, I did polish it but I wiped all of the oils from the polishing off with 3 things, Alcohol, WGR, and the prep supplied, why won't it stick to a clean naked surface and only a dirty one?
It appears you like HHR's.
Great little cars.
We have 3 HHR SSs, this one here has a video that I need to edit ended up turning out pretty rad so stay tuned!
i saw a guy do the same thing but he had puller left and right not what you did up and down try it see if it works
Well, this tool worked pretty good,
ISO alcohol for release agent
Thank you!
How about LARGE dents, like fender that has dent size of like acouple softballs, all those tabs look super small
Great improvement brother!
Much appreciated!!!
Hum, i paid 3 dollars for mine, no glue or 70% alcohol and just the hand clamp. I'll call it. The scrapping of glue worries me it's a new car.
My opinion you got the only worthwhile part I'm the kit LOL
You can't get a small crease out like that with that kind of tool (that's what I'm calling that spot indentation there). I'm not a body shop guy, but am familiar with science, metal stresses, etc. You're on a curved surface with some possible doubling over of metal there for structural integrity. For bigger areas, you have to consider whether you can pop it all at once, or work it in sections from the outside in. But it's really important to understand metal stresses to have your expectations be reasonable. For instance, on a corner, a deep crease has to counteract the metal supporting the inward crease, and you have to overcome getting that fixed surface of metal to open the area up, and expand, letting the metal come back up.
Some guys use rounded rods with different bends and find a place to leverage against, with the rounded point on the backside of the metal and you slowly work from the outside in. I had that done years ago when I had a rear tailgate of a van creased inwards from something (don't remember now, what, but it shattered the back glass too). He went in via a hole he drilled on the side of the tail gate, and leveraging the tough metal there. He put in a rubber seal after wards. I was amazed at what he was able to do.
So no one "trick" to solve all the problems. Don't get down on yourself. Good try!
Thank you! Was such a small ding 😆 , I ended up tapping the crown down and a coat of glaze took care of it, still making the video on repainting the car
Heat up the panel.
It looks like it did raise it like I got better
why is my glue not sticking
Make sure the surface is clean, glue has to be hot, then wait at least 5mins for those glue. I’m sure the kit work. But the hot glue is not PDR hot glue. Those glue is like dollars, if you buy real PDR glue, they can even pull 400 plus lb without coming off 😂
Sand the glue tabs a little bit so the glue can really stick and adhere to them
23 minutes I will never get back.
It took you 23 minutes to figure out that this video wasn't going to be useful to you?
@@autoauctionfinds I had faith.
@ThatGuyFromArizona honestly felt like deleting this video SEVERAL times but didn't because it did help a few, I will say to this day I have yet to get the supplied glue to stick, all different scenarios
@@autoauctionfinds well in all fairness, the video helped me too... I may have bought one if I hadn't watched it!! 😅
@@ThatGuyFromArizona id like my money back LMFAO
Oh my God get on with it already
There is a button to your right, you can fast forward fella... The more you know 🤣🤣🤣
Something happens at 20:00
🤣🤣🤣 sorry
@@autoauctionfinds It's alright 😊 that's why there is a scrolling bar 🍻
@Swan1434 I watched it after I uploaded it, usually I do b4 hand and I'm like dang LOL
Consider editing your videos before posting them. This was mind numbing listening to you talk the about process to yourself. I was ready to bail out after five minutes, hung in there for the first failure at 13 and a half minutes. Then I quit. I'm moving on to a video that says it is 3 minutes long. Try editing.
Oh that poor clear coat
Thats what I said when I blocked it later with 220
You talk to much
Thank you! LOL... I bet your fun at partys
Do u think it will work on hail damage
It does, be prepared if it's your first time, I overpulled alot but that's what the knockdown tools are for, take your time as every tap does move metal
@@autoauctionfinds thank you very much for your time, sir
@danrez42 absolutely!