Thank you very much... I really appreciate you taking the time to let me know. I have loved taking stuff apart since I was a kid and the curious side of me has never left... it just evolved (now including re-purposing the stuff I dismantle). Thanks for watching!
Interesting, I hit your channel to see a different vid then saw this in the sidebar. I use a hair dryer for my forced air metal melter. The other day it started buzzing but no blow so...I dissasembled it. Now I have the parts, main interest is the motor and the 3 way of/hi/low switch. I think I know how the wires are going to work but will have to, ummm, test it-I'm glad it has a GFI switch. :D
Hi Mark, thanks so much for the comment. Were you able to get it to blow air again? I too am a big user of the "test to see" method of figuring out what is going on with stuff. Thanks too for watching my videos!!
My hairdryer motor burned out (the commutator) . I was hoping you would explain the purpose of the diodes. I believe the motor was 12v , so how is the AC voltage dropped to a suitable 12V DC?
Interesting question/situation. If the issue was overheating the thermal cutoff switch should usually knock out all power; heat would not work if fan was cut off. Does your hairdryer have one switch with multiple settings? If the switch starts on air only but then pushing further also turns on heat then the issue might be a faulty switch. Since the heat and fan both work separately then I think the switch is the likely problem.
Fixed it! I forgot to put the coil back when i moved to put the fuse in. Ive ordered another fuse for another dryer i got too. I have third one its from the 80’s made in Hong Kong and there is no issues with it!
i have a question about thermal fuses, I've replaced them in other scrapped home appliances, but do you know if it's appropriate to solder the fuse in a blow dryer? will the solder stand up to the heat? does it depend on the solder? will i have to make a new brass rivet?
You have a great question... Most are just forced onto the motor and should be able to pop back off but I have found some are forced on so hard that they can't be removed easily enough without risking breaking.
I apprecaitet you taking the time to show about hairdryers and fixing them and or salvaging parts for other projects instead of letting it go to the trash. I have a Conair small folding handle hairdryer with the cool burst switch. Lately when I pressed the cool burst switch I noticed smoke coming out of the 3 way switch. Looked at the insides and the wire from the cool burst switch connects to the three way switch and that terminal is burn out on the inside area of the switch. Could I just cut off this cool burst switch and still use the hairdryer or is this now a salvage item? I thought about mailing to conair this broken hairdryer with a note of what went wrong so they can update their design.
Thank you very much for the comment. I have a great deal of fun taking things apart that were headed to the trash/recycle and repurposing the parts for other projects. I have done several heaters and dryers and typically the secondary switches can be removed without issue. From what you are saying it is the contact point on the 3 way switch that came from the cool air burst switch that is the problem point. If pressing the cool air burst button is causing the overheating (smoke) issue then I think disconnecting the entire wire seems like a good idea since it essentially creates the situation where the button can never be pushed to create the smoke. Just to be clear though, nothing else is causing smoke just when you push cool air burst, right? Also, there are no other visible signs of overheating (including along the wiring all the way back to the plug), correct?
@@DialedInDIY Hi again.. So I've given your reply some thought and I really, really dont want to get zapped or have the hairdryer blow up in my hand due to my lack of knowledge😅 Is there any chance you could make a quick, complete newbie to electronics tutorial on that subject please? Any further help is greatly appreciated, thankyou😊
That is a great question... I am not entirely sure about the safety answer for a couple of reasons. I think that if the blade isn't too bad then the glue could help keep it together. What I am not sure about is if the glue would begin to chip off under that kind of vibration, rotation and heat exposure. If it did begin to flake then what ever gets free will hit the red hot heating element and possibly spark up. Sorry it is not a straight yes/no answer.
Hi, thanks for watching and posting your question. Which metal is burning? Is it something on one of your devices or do you mean does the cable I used end up burning? If it is the cable you are asking about, then no, I have not had issues with fire or burning.
Thanks for watching a posting up a question. Are you asking about fixing the GFCI outlet or a plug that has the third prong for ground? The third prong is added to appliances that will be operated outside or around water. It is a safety feature. Typically these are plugged into GFCI outlet. Generally speaking it is not a good idea to remove the third prong.
Yes it has the “test” and “reset” buttons onnit and the button won’t click in and my hairdryer won’t start... I wanted to open the plug but two screws are weird and I don’t have the tool to open it... what do I need to fix this ? Thanks
@@nonameno6690 thanks for the clarification. Many electronics have moved to non-standard screw types (it can be a pain... there seems to always be a newer type). Many are the "torx" screws; it looks like a star / asterix shape. One thing to try is unplugging the hair dryer and pressing firmly on the reset button, then plug it in and try turning it on. To be honest it does sound like the reset button might be broken which would require a replacement of the hairdryer or possibly the plug portion.
hmmmm.... I need to see if I still have the parts. If I can figure out what else was in there I will let you know. Do you remember where in the video you saw the part you were interested in? I am guessing it was among the switches in the handle.
Is it stuck on one airflow level OR does no air flow at all? If it is a sliding switch: many times the part of the switch you can touch is just a cover that has a post over the actual switch lever on the inside. That post can break and you will be able to slide a switch cover but not the underlying switch. Another option might be a disconnected wire. Does any of that sound close to what you are experiencing?
@@DialedInDIY Yes it's stuck on high so I'm guessing it's the wire which I don't know how to handle at all, I haven't checked if there's a cover for the actual switch lever, but I'll will.
@@azizoghamari9654 Stuck on high might also be a shorted connection (if the switch seems to move like it is trying to change speeds but there is no change in operation). I sometimes find that making sure there is clean separation between the wires connected on a switch helps fix this type of problem too. Was yours the same model?
Love your salvage videos!!
Thank you very much... I really appreciate you taking the time to let me know. I have loved taking stuff apart since I was a kid and the curious side of me has never left... it just evolved (now including re-purposing the stuff I dismantle). Thanks for watching!
I have that exact same dryer. This video helped show me how the back piece came off. Mine just had a poor solder point on a switch, easy fix.
I love to hear that kind of feedback... I am so glad the video was helpful. Thank you very much for posting your comment and for watching!!
Interesting, I hit your channel to see a different vid then saw this in the sidebar. I use a hair dryer for my forced air metal melter. The other day it started buzzing but no blow so...I dissasembled it. Now I have the parts, main interest is the motor and the 3 way of/hi/low switch. I think I know how the wires are going to work but will have to, ummm, test it-I'm glad it has a GFI switch. :D
Hi Mark, thanks so much for the comment. Were you able to get it to blow air again? I too am a big user of the "test to see" method of figuring out what is going on with stuff. Thanks too for watching my videos!!
My hairdryer motor burned out (the commutator) . I was hoping you would explain the purpose of the diodes. I believe the motor was 12v , so how is the AC voltage dropped to a suitable 12V DC?
So helpful thank you
Mine works good on all fan speeds but when i turn on the heat to med or hot . The fan turns off and the coils heat up. Whats wrong with it?
Interesting question/situation. If the issue was overheating the thermal cutoff switch should usually knock out all power; heat would not work if fan was cut off. Does your hairdryer have one switch with multiple settings? If the switch starts on air only but then pushing further also turns on heat then the issue might be a faulty switch. Since the heat and fan both work separately then I think the switch is the likely problem.
Fixed it! I forgot to put the coil back when i moved to put the fuse in. Ive ordered another fuse for another dryer i got too. I have third one its from the 80’s made in Hong Kong and there is no issues with it!
That is great! Amazing how one from the 80's still holding strong. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment.
i have a question about thermal fuses, I've replaced them in other scrapped home appliances, but do you know if it's appropriate to solder the fuse in a blow dryer? will the solder stand up to the heat? does it depend on the solder? will i have to make a new brass rivet?
I've seen mixed thoughts in this. Some say silver solder works but most feel the replacement should be crimped in.
How do I remove a fan that looks like that? I saw someone yanking it out on youtube, tried the same but it doesn't come out
You have a great question... Most are just forced onto the motor and should be able to pop back off but I have found some are forced on so hard that they can't be removed easily enough without risking breaking.
@@DialedInDIY Thank you
I apprecaitet you taking the time to show about hairdryers and fixing them and or salvaging parts for other projects instead of letting it go to the trash. I have a Conair small folding handle hairdryer with the cool burst switch. Lately when I pressed the cool burst switch I noticed smoke coming out of the 3 way switch. Looked at the insides and the wire from the cool burst switch connects to the three way switch and that terminal is burn out on the inside area of the switch. Could I just cut off this cool burst switch and still use the hairdryer or is this now a salvage item? I thought about mailing to conair this broken hairdryer with a note of what went wrong so they can update their design.
Thank you very much for the comment. I have a great deal of fun taking things apart that were headed to the trash/recycle and repurposing the parts for other projects. I have done several heaters and dryers and typically the secondary switches can be removed without issue. From what you are saying it is the contact point on the 3 way switch that came from the cool air burst switch that is the problem point. If pressing the cool air burst button is causing the overheating (smoke) issue then I think disconnecting the entire wire seems like a good idea since it essentially creates the situation where the button can never be pushed to create the smoke. Just to be clear though, nothing else is causing smoke just when you push cool air burst, right? Also, there are no other visible signs of overheating (including along the wiring all the way back to the plug), correct?
Is there a way to purposely stop a hairdryer heating up, so it just blows cold air?
Absolutely, but how depends greatly upon the type of hair dryer you have. [this part of reply edited] Thanks for watching and posting your comment!
@@DialedInDIY excellent, thankyou!
@@DialedInDIY Hi again..
So I've given your reply some thought and I really, really dont want to get zapped or have the hairdryer blow up in my hand due to my lack of knowledge😅
Is there any chance you could make a quick, complete newbie to electronics tutorial on that subject please?
Any further help is greatly appreciated, thankyou😊
@@gabslife7525 I will check to see if I have an old hair dryer around still and try to see if it is in good enough shape to do that.
PS: always good to know your comfort level and limitations. When it comes to electronics it is often good to be more conservative.
Hi, I have the exact same problem with the exact same blow dryer. Would it be safe to superglue that fan blade that is cracking at the bottom?
That is a great question... I am not entirely sure about the safety answer for a couple of reasons. I think that if the blade isn't too bad then the glue could help keep it together. What I am not sure about is if the glue would begin to chip off under that kind of vibration, rotation and heat exposure. If it did begin to flake then what ever gets free will hit the red hot heating element and possibly spark up. Sorry it is not a straight yes/no answer.
hi, can i know is it normal if the metal became burning like that?
Hi, thanks for watching and posting your question. Which metal is burning? Is it something on one of your devices or do you mean does the cable I used end up burning? If it is the cable you are asking about, then no, I have not had issues with fire or burning.
Can you do one on the GFI plug
How to fix it ? And also can you cut it off and put a 2 prong plug instead or is that a bad idea .. please help
Thanks for watching a posting up a question. Are you asking about fixing the GFCI outlet or a plug that has the third prong for ground?
The third prong is added to appliances that will be operated outside or around water. It is a safety feature. Typically these are plugged into GFCI outlet. Generally speaking it is not a good idea to remove the third prong.
Yes it has the “test” and “reset” buttons onnit and the button won’t click in and my hairdryer won’t start... I wanted to open the plug but two screws are weird and I don’t have the tool to open it... what do I need to fix this ? Thanks
@@nonameno6690 thanks for the clarification. Many electronics have moved to non-standard screw types (it can be a pain... there seems to always be a newer type). Many are the "torx" screws; it looks like a star / asterix shape. One thing to try is unplugging the hair dryer and pressing firmly on the reset button, then plug it in and try turning it on. To be honest it does sound like the reset button might be broken which would require a replacement of the hairdryer or possibly the plug portion.
whats the diode
hmmmm.... I need to see if I still have the parts. If I can figure out what else was in there I will let you know. Do you remember where in the video you saw the part you were interested in? I am guessing it was among the switches in the handle.
The high medium low speed button is not functioning, help
Is it stuck on one airflow level OR does no air flow at all? If it is a sliding switch: many times the part of the switch you can touch is just a cover that has a post over the actual switch lever on the inside. That post can break and you will be able to slide a switch cover but not the underlying switch. Another option might be a disconnected wire. Does any of that sound close to what you are experiencing?
@@DialedInDIY Yes it's stuck on high so I'm guessing it's the wire which I don't know how to handle at all, I haven't checked if there's a cover for the actual switch lever, but I'll will.
@@azizoghamari9654 Stuck on high might also be a shorted connection (if the switch seems to move like it is trying to change speeds but there is no change in operation). I sometimes find that making sure there is clean separation between the wires connected on a switch helps fix this type of problem too. Was yours the same model?