This is a really smart way to root fig!! Comparing my way: 1. No need water pot and worried forget to water it every day . 2. No need put the bag on top with rubber band to keep moist and reopen bag every few days to let the fresh air in and then close it again that is too much work. 3. No need to take out the dirt if you want to cheek the root already grow. 4. It is easy to move to somewhere if the weather too cold or hot. 5. No need big space and easy to replant. I am so happy to see this video. Thank you so much!!!
This video is pure gold, thanks for all the great info. I love growing figs myself but never knew about Figaholics and other places to buy cuttings from to start new trees. Time to start expanding my fig arsenal in 2020
Fantastic! I use zip lock snack bags on their sides. Cheap, and you can get a lot of cuttings in a small space. Cheap to ship. Easy to unzip and get the rooted cuttin😊g out. I snip off a small hole in the corners to submurge in a quarter inch of water if they need any during the rooting process. I then uppot into a 1 quartclear deli container. Again, you can monitor the roots and cheap to ship. Use a light mix.
Thanks for the tips I’ll try the budding tape next time,I just pot mine straight up with coconut coir compost and rock dust mix and I use aloe Vera jell for rooting hormone and water in with dilute inoculate and seaweed solution I get about 80 -90 percent success the tape should improve that cause it’s so dry here
I'm confused. At 6:42 it shows in the video "1/2 vermiculite and 1/2 perlite with a tbsp of mychorizae". But in your description below the video, it states "1. Fill a 6” x 12” plastic bag ¼ full with pre-moistened mix of ½ perlite and ½ peat moss and a tbsp. of mycorrhizae". Do I use vermiculite or peat moss?
Sorry for the confusion. The video demos what I did with the materials I had at the time while the description provides the optimum approach. I've used both and both work but the description of 1/2 perlite and peat is the more accepted better approach.
Moonlight D Correct; set and forget about it for 30 to 45 days. I forgot to mention that I keep the bin closed the first 30 days. I open the bin after 30 days. those that have strong roots get potted up and the others stay put.
On your video you showed that you would put a tray underneath your fig after it was spotted up how often do you spill tray with water that is a question I have but your video is outstanding I also live in Phoenix in North North Phoenix thanks so much
Thanks! In mid-Jan-Feb, I would provide 1 cup or so of water every day to 2 depending on the soil moisture which fluctuates with humidity and ambient air temp. You don't want to let the soil around the root zone completely dry out. Keep that moist/not soggy and you should be good.
When are the best times in the Phoenix area to take fig cuttings .......thank you for your help......i printed out your article fig propagating and now i wait ( stuck 25 ) have hi hopes🙂
Once the fig tree defoliates, it is dormant and you can take cuttings. As far as timing on rooting, I like to wait until late Jan. Root them in a bin for 30-45 days so that by the time they are ready for pots, cold nights are gone and they can harden off outside. There is no reason you can't root earlier as you have, but plan to keep them inside until mid-March or so under adequate heat and light to keep them happy and growing.
I enjoy your videos very much I've tried your method and it's working great for me I was wondering if you would recommend a time release fertilizer for are fig trees I'd appreciate an answer at your convenience
Hi! I personally like and use E.B. Stone Citrus & Fruit Tree Food (7-3-3). When I can’t find it, I go with Dr Earth Organic Fruit Tree Fertilizer 5-5-2
I'm currently trying your method with about 8 fig cuttings but without the heat may as my house is kept at 75 degrees. After the 30 days one has good roots (Nixon Peace), the others I will give them more time. When potting up did you then put the pots in the sun or shade? I'm in Chandler, so the same temps as you. Thanks.
Hello figmiesterette! I have a few fig trees in my house I am hoping to grow trees in Overgaard once I move there. Several varieties claim to be cold hardy but altitude effects them also. Celeste, Olympia, Green strippy , Texas, and a few others didnot make it. I just got cuttings from a man who says they are from his property in Up state Ny. Sadly they were delayed by the storms and were nearly dry and moldy. I washed them in diluted Vinager and gently scrubbed them. Any hints on how to save them?
Hi! Chicago Hardy and Marseilles Black (mt etna type figs in general) are said to be the most cold hardy varieties. You may want to try those. They generally can be purchased online as rooted plants. If your cuttings are wrinkled, they are goners. For saving moldy cuttings that are not wrinkled, you can try scrubbing them in 1 part bleach to 9 parts water, and rinse well. Before rooting, cut off the ends and let them soak in some water. Best of luck.
Usually, I up-size in spring though you could do it now since there are still at least 2 more months of growing time. Basically anytime except winter (dormant season) is fine. Winter is not a good time since the roots are not growing and the extra soil when wet could lead to rot.
Thank you very much for all your answers. I would like to know something, but before everything, my English is not very good, I am an old Mexican woman, but my question is, do not put any water before or after putting the fig cut in the plastic bag with the mix of perlite and vermiculite? After 30 days you have to see their evolution and that's it.
I added instruction to the video (about section) tonight on steps. You need to moisten your mixture with water before placing the cutting in the bag. The mixture needs to be moist but not soaking wet. Once you set the cutting in the bag and within the closed bin with the proper constant temperature, you can forget about it for 30 days as it roots.
I have a question, when one begins to try to root, almost half of the cut is put in the mix, but when they have roots, should be planted where the root begins or with a piece of trunk even if it does not have roots? Thanks for your very good videos. I'm learning a lot
You can plant the same way with half of the cutting covered in soil (both the roots and trunk). The soil covered rootless upper portion should form roots in time.
sorry to ask again, i never tried bottom/tray watering. is this effective if the roots have not reached the pot holes at the bottom. I just up-potted many of my fig pops using pre-moistened soil., but not certain how to water thereafter, turkey baster, bottom/tray watering, spray misting, etc
With tray watering, the soil wicks up the moisture with the wettest soil at the bottom versus the top. I find that helps avoid rot and encourages the roots to go down. You can alternatively be very sparing with watering from the top and water frequently. Misting the leaves is a good idea to keep them from drying out. I don't rely on moisture meters and tend to check on them every day or so to see if they look dry or not.
My fig cuttings are 3 months old and I want to feed them fertilizer how often can I feed them Miracle-Gro they're leaving out now and looking pretty good but I just wanted to give him a good shot of fertilizer please reply at your own convenience thank you
Thank you for this information. So interesting. I am wondering how you know what branch to cut from an existing tree. What do you look for? I think I would like to try this with an apple tree at my parents.
Thanks! Pencil thick to nickle thick is acceptable for rooting fig cuttings. I don't have experience with apple tree cuttings but the concepts are probably similar. I like a cutting that is 6 to 8 inches long with at least three inches below the soil and the rest above.
Do you sell locally? I believe I'm close to you. Only cuttings that didn't make it this year were moscatel preto and figo preto. I think was too much water. Rotted right up middle after it had good roots. Anyway I'd like to get these again. Let me know. Thanks
I've heard those are tough to root. I have easily grafted figo preto and will try grafting moscatel preto this Spring. I won't have either available this year. Maybe next year if all goes well. I recommend you get cuttings from Harvey next January; that's where I got mine.
Could you please tell me what the earliest time of the year I could take additional cuttings I have access now to some cuttings and I thought it might be good to take them now if there was a way I could either begin the reading process or put them in the refrigerator thank you
Hi! I only use parafilm to wrap the top because I live in a dry climate in Phoenix, AZ and they otherwise dry out in my experience. If your cuttings are being rooted in a humid climate, the film could make the cuttings too moist. I'm not an expert on rooting and there are lots of different methods. ourfigs.com is a fig forum and offers lots of options for rooting cuttings. You may want to check out the popular method there for your climate.
Hi. I have a question, use your method of rooting the figs and it was a success, but after months of struggle, my babies have multi sprouting, some have two but others have up to 4 or 5, my plants are very healthy and I just take them out 2 hours and not direct sun, but I have to cut those sprouting? I would really appreciate your answer. Thank you very much for your help. Your neighbor from Surprise
It's way too early to be pruning growth of your rooted plants. Let the growth be until Winter and then prune to shape. I'd suggest putting them outside in morning sun/afternoon shade. There is no reason to keep them indoors as we are quite warm now. All my rooted plants have been outdoors for the past month and are doing fine. Leaves will transition when going from indoor to outdoor light by drying up and falling but new leaves emerge. Just make sure you keep the soil moist when outdoors. They need plenty of sunshine and water to grow. You can also give it a light fertilizer like schultz cactus food 2:2:7 every two weeks until fully rooted and then it can take a normal fruit fertilizer.
Winter is typical because that's when fig trees go dormant and cuttings become commercially available to purchase or harvest from your trees. It's not too late now. The only issue right now is finding dormant cuttings--most everywhere in the US the trees are awake in Spring. If you have dormant cuttings then go for it.
You can get free fig cuttings from the USDA Repository at UC Davis, Davis CA. The Repository has over 300 fig cultivars and you can select which ones you want. Go to the website.
Hello I have fig cuttings in Phoenix Arizona that are about 4 months old or doing well but the summer is coming on and how much direct heat can I expect them to endure I'd like to have them outside they would get about two-thirds of the day of direct sun and then shade you think they would survive I appreciate it reply whenever it's convenient thank you
RONALD WISE we are quickly heading for triple digits. my experience tells me placement of young container plants is best on the east side of your home where they should be in shade after around noon. direct sun beyond that can be too much and you risk the plant drying up and declining. a little mulch on the top can help with moisture retention but plan to need to water daily once temps are into the upper 90s
I am new to Phoenix and your videos are awesome. I will be full time resident later in 2019 when I sell my home in Chicago and want to grow a fig tree. What type so you suggest?
Thanks! Everyone has different taste buds so it depends on what you like. I personally like berry type figs. My 2018 Fall Fig tour is descriptive of the various cultivars I have growing and I mention my favorites. th-cam.com/video/K-LpAnsO8QY/w-d-xo.html
I have used peat moss in the past but also have found success with different media. I did not have peat at the time I shot this--in the description is the go to method or pre-moistened mix of ½ perlite and ½ peat moss and a tbsp. of mycorrhizae. I find the most important aspect is the heating pads to get results.
@@EnlightenmentGarden its pretty cold here right now so i'll have to use a heating pad as well. but its several months in house before I can put them out so perhaps I'll wait to start rooting till the end of Dec
Thanks! Yes; for 30 days on average (or when the roots strongly form) in a closed container. Please read through the description where I list steps. My container is in my garage which stays between 60-70 F. You can keep the container wherever you want as long as in the end the container is in the range of 75-85 F. That's why I use a heat mat underneath the container 24/7 as it raises the temp by 10-15 F.
I find Parafilm M is not as stretchy as "Buddy tape." Buddy tape is what I used in the video (got it on Amazon). It costs more but is regarded a little higher.
Thanks! I sold cuttings in January but don't have any more to sell now. I will again next January. I will have rooted fig plants available in March on my etsy store--www.etsy.com/shop/EnlightenmentGarden
Yes--www.etsy.com/shop/EnlightenmentGarden. January is when I sell fig cuttings. I periodically sell frankincense plants (but sell out fast) and should have some rooted fig trees at the end of this month up
Best fig rooting video on TH-cam and trust me I've watched dozens and dozens
This is a really smart way to root fig!! Comparing my way:
1. No need water pot and worried forget to water it every day .
2. No need put the bag on top with rubber band to keep moist and reopen bag every few days to let the fresh air in and then close it again that is too much work.
3. No need to take out the dirt if you want to cheek the root already grow.
4. It is easy to move to somewhere if the weather too cold or hot.
5. No need big space and easy to replant.
I am so happy to see this video. Thank you so much!!!
Thank you for showing the cuttings from both sellers. I know where I'll get mine from next year.
This video is pure gold, thanks for all the great info. I love growing figs myself but never knew about Figaholics and other places to buy cuttings from to start new trees. Time to start expanding my fig arsenal in 2020
Fantastic! I use zip lock snack bags on their sides. Cheap, and you can get a lot of cuttings in a small space. Cheap to ship. Easy to unzip and get the rooted cuttin😊g out. I snip off a small hole in the corners to submurge in a quarter inch of water if they need any during the rooting process. I then uppot into a 1 quartclear deli container. Again, you can monitor the roots and cheap to ship. Use a light mix.
I'm jealous that you received your Harvey cuttings already. I'm waiting until Tuesday. Thanks for sharing.
Nice to see someone else in the PHX area. I know who to trade for local fig cuttings :) I think I will use the pop method also.
Thanks for the tips I’ll try the budding tape next time,I just pot mine straight up with coconut coir compost and rock dust mix and I use aloe Vera jell for rooting hormone and water in with dilute inoculate and seaweed solution I get about 80 -90 percent success the tape should improve that cause it’s so dry here
Thanks for the info .... just getting into figs myself..started experimenting with cuttings
nice video
great video
Figaholics. What a name.
Great Video!!!
I'm confused. At 6:42 it shows in the video "1/2 vermiculite and 1/2 perlite with a tbsp of mychorizae". But in your description below the video, it states "1. Fill a 6” x 12” plastic bag ¼ full with pre-moistened mix of ½ perlite and ½ peat moss and a tbsp. of mycorrhizae".
Do I use vermiculite or peat moss?
Sorry for the confusion. The video demos what I did with the materials I had at the time while the description provides the optimum approach. I've used both and both work but the description of 1/2 perlite and peat is the more accepted better approach.
Güzel bir paylaşım olmuş good video 👍☘️
Nice video Thank you.
You don't put holes in bag and so no need to water for whole month or so right ?
Moonlight D Correct; set and forget about it for 30 to 45 days. I forgot to mention that I keep the bin closed the first 30 days. I open the bin after 30 days. those that have strong roots get potted up and the others stay put.
On your video you showed that you would put a tray underneath your fig after it was spotted up how often do you spill tray with water that is a question I have but your video is outstanding I also live in Phoenix in North North Phoenix thanks so much
Thanks! In mid-Jan-Feb, I would provide 1 cup or so of water every day to 2 depending on the soil moisture which fluctuates with humidity and ambient air temp. You don't want to let the soil around the root zone completely dry out. Keep that moist/not soggy and you should be good.
When are the best times in the Phoenix area to take fig cuttings .......thank you for your help......i printed out your article fig propagating and now i wait ( stuck 25 ) have hi hopes🙂
Once the fig tree defoliates, it is dormant and you can take cuttings. As far as timing on rooting, I like to wait until late Jan. Root them in a bin for 30-45 days so that by the time they are ready for pots, cold nights are gone and they can harden off outside. There is no reason you can't root earlier as you have, but plan to keep them inside until mid-March or so under adequate heat and light to keep them happy and growing.
I enjoy your videos very much I've tried your method and it's working great for me I was wondering if you would recommend a time release fertilizer for are fig trees I'd appreciate an answer at your convenience
Hi! I personally like and use E.B. Stone Citrus & Fruit Tree Food (7-3-3). When I can’t find it, I go with Dr Earth Organic Fruit Tree Fertilizer 5-5-2
I'm currently trying your method with about 8 fig cuttings but without the heat may as my house is kept at 75 degrees. After the 30 days one has good roots (Nixon Peace), the others I will give them more time. When potting up did you then put the pots in the sun or shade? I'm in Chandler, so the same temps as you. Thanks.
Good call--some can take a while to root. I put them in morning sun/afternoon shade for the first few months after up-potting
Hello figmiesterette! I have a few fig trees in my house I am hoping to grow trees in Overgaard once I move there. Several varieties claim to be cold hardy but altitude effects them also. Celeste, Olympia, Green strippy , Texas, and a few others didnot make it. I just got cuttings from a man who says they are from his property in Up state Ny. Sadly they were delayed by the storms and were nearly dry and moldy. I washed them in diluted Vinager and gently scrubbed them. Any hints on how to save them?
Hi! Chicago Hardy and Marseilles Black (mt etna type figs in general) are said to be the most cold hardy varieties. You may want to try those. They generally can be purchased online as rooted plants. If your cuttings are wrinkled, they are goners. For saving moldy cuttings that are not wrinkled, you can try scrubbing them in 1 part bleach to 9 parts water, and rinse well. Before rooting, cut off the ends and let them soak in some water. Best of luck.
What time of the year should I
Upot my figs. They are 3 years old
Usually, I up-size in spring though you could do it now since there are still at least 2 more months of growing time. Basically anytime except winter (dormant season) is fine. Winter is not a good time since the roots are not growing and the extra soil when wet could lead to rot.
Thank you very much for all your answers. I would like to know something, but before everything, my English is not very good, I am an old Mexican woman, but my question is, do not put any water before or after putting the fig cut in the plastic bag with the mix of perlite and vermiculite? After 30 days you have to see their evolution and that's it.
I added instruction to the video (about section) tonight on steps. You need to moisten your mixture with water before placing the cutting in the bag. The mixture needs to be moist but not soaking wet. Once you set the cutting in the bag and within the closed bin with the proper constant temperature, you can forget about it for 30 days as it roots.
@@EnlightenmentGarden Thanks a lot.
I have a question, when one begins to try to root, almost half of the cut is put in the mix, but when they have roots, should be planted where the root begins or with a piece of trunk even if it does not have roots? Thanks for your very good videos. I'm learning a lot
You can plant the same way with half of the cutting covered in soil (both the roots and trunk). The soil covered rootless upper portion should form roots in time.
@@EnlightenmentGarden Thank you a lot
sorry to ask again, i never tried bottom/tray watering. is this effective if the roots have not reached the pot holes at the bottom. I just up-potted many of my fig pops using pre-moistened soil., but not certain how to water thereafter, turkey baster, bottom/tray watering, spray misting, etc
With tray watering, the soil wicks up the moisture with the wettest soil at the bottom versus the top. I find that helps avoid rot and encourages the roots to go down. You can alternatively be very sparing with watering from the top and water frequently. Misting the leaves is a good idea to keep them from drying out. I don't rely on moisture meters and tend to check on them every day or so to see if they look dry or not.
@@EnlightenmentGarden thanks. looking forward to testing a few options
My fig cuttings are 3 months old and I want to feed them fertilizer how often can I feed them Miracle-Gro they're leaving out now and looking pretty good but I just wanted to give him a good shot of fertilizer please reply at your own convenience thank you
For young starts, I would feed every 2 weeks but half the concentration for your young starts to avoid fertilizer burn.
Thank you for this information. So interesting. I am wondering how you know what branch to cut from an existing tree. What do you look for? I think I would like to try this with an apple tree at my parents.
Thanks! Pencil thick to nickle thick is acceptable for rooting fig cuttings. I don't have experience with apple tree cuttings but the concepts are probably similar. I like a cutting that is 6 to 8 inches long with at least three inches below the soil and the rest above.
@@EnlightenmentGarden Thank you so much. AZ looks so lovely. I am in Wisconsin and we have the Polar Ice cap now.
@@CrankyBubushka You are welcome and stay warm!
Do you sell locally? I believe I'm close to you. Only cuttings that didn't make it this year were moscatel preto and figo preto. I think was too much water. Rotted right up middle after it had good roots.
Anyway I'd like to get these again. Let me know. Thanks
I've heard those are tough to root. I have easily grafted figo preto and will try grafting moscatel preto this Spring. I won't have either available this year. Maybe next year if all goes well. I recommend you get cuttings from Harvey next January; that's where I got mine.
Could you please tell me what the earliest time of the year I could take additional cuttings I have access now to some cuttings and I thought it might be good to take them now if there was a way I could either begin the reading process or put them in the refrigerator thank you
Take cuttings when the tree is dormant before bud break--in a hot climate like Phoenix that is usually Feb
have you grafted in winter ? with success ?
Hi! Are there any other alternative aside from using grafting tape/parafilm to successfully root a fig cutting?
Hi! I only use parafilm to wrap the top because I live in a dry climate in Phoenix, AZ and they otherwise dry out in my experience. If your cuttings are being rooted in a humid climate, the film could make the cuttings too moist. I'm not an expert on rooting and there are lots of different methods. ourfigs.com is a fig forum and offers lots of options for rooting cuttings. You may want to check out the popular method there for your climate.
I actually use the bag upside down, with the zipper., which I close tight and leave no air at all.
Smart! I'll try that.
Hi. I have a question, use your method of rooting the figs and it was a success, but after months of struggle, my babies have multi sprouting, some have two but others have up to 4 or 5, my plants are very healthy and I just take them out 2 hours and not direct sun, but I have to cut those sprouting? I would really appreciate your answer. Thank you very much for your help. Your neighbor from Surprise
It's way too early to be pruning growth of your rooted plants. Let the growth be until Winter and then prune to shape. I'd suggest putting them outside in morning sun/afternoon shade. There is no reason to keep them indoors as we are quite warm now. All my rooted plants have been outdoors for the past month and are doing fine. Leaves will transition when going from indoor to outdoor light by drying up and falling but new leaves emerge. Just make sure you keep the soil moist when outdoors. They need plenty of sunshine and water to grow. You can also give it a light fertilizer like schultz cactus food 2:2:7 every two weeks until fully rooted and then it can take a normal fruit fertilizer.
Thank you for you very informative videos. Is there an optimal time to root cuttings? Is it too late to root cuttings in May in Phoenix? Thx
Winter is typical because that's when fig trees go dormant and cuttings become commercially available to purchase or harvest from your trees. It's not too late now. The only issue right now is finding dormant cuttings--most everywhere in the US the trees are awake in Spring. If you have dormant cuttings then go for it.
You can get free fig cuttings from the USDA Repository at UC Davis, Davis CA. The Repository has over 300 fig cultivars and you can select which ones you want. Go to the website.
Thanks. I've tried--they do not provide them to home gardeners--only universities these days.
How long can you store cuttings in crisper?
On average 2-3 months. Beyond that; viability is on the decline.
Hello I have fig cuttings in Phoenix Arizona that are about 4 months old or doing well but the summer is coming on and how much direct heat can I expect them to endure I'd like to have them outside they would get about two-thirds of the day of direct sun and then shade you think they would survive I appreciate it reply whenever it's convenient thank you
RONALD WISE we are quickly heading for triple digits. my experience tells me placement of young container plants is best on the east side of your home where they should be in shade after around noon. direct sun beyond that can be too much and you risk the plant drying up and declining. a little mulch on the top can help with moisture retention but plan to need to water daily once temps are into the upper 90s
I am new to Phoenix and your videos are awesome. I will be full time resident later in 2019 when I sell my home in Chicago and want to grow a fig tree. What type so you suggest?
Thanks! Everyone has different taste buds so it depends on what you like. I personally like berry type figs. My 2018 Fall Fig tour is descriptive of the various cultivars I have growing and I mention my favorites. th-cam.com/video/K-LpAnsO8QY/w-d-xo.html
you don't use any peat moss ?
I have used peat moss in the past but also have found success with different media. I did not have peat at the time I shot this--in the description is the go to method or pre-moistened mix of ½ perlite and ½ peat moss and a tbsp. of mycorrhizae. I find the most important aspect is the heating pads to get results.
@@EnlightenmentGarden its pretty cold here right now so i'll have to use a heating pad as well. but its several months in house before I can put them out so perhaps I'll wait to start rooting till the end of Dec
very nice. did you put the fig pop in a fully covered container? and also where did you leave the container?
Thanks! Yes; for 30 days on average (or when the roots strongly form) in a closed container. Please read through the description where I list steps. My container is in my garage which stays between 60-70 F. You can keep the container wherever you want as long as in the end the container is in the range of 75-85 F. That's why I use a heat mat underneath the container 24/7 as it raises the temp by 10-15 F.
@@EnlightenmentGarden thanks
how do we buy cuttings from you?
I'll list cuttings sometime in January when the trees go dormant on my etsy store -- www.etsy.com/shop/EnlightenmentGarden
my parafilm snaps when I stretch it ?
I find Parafilm M is not as stretchy as "Buddy tape." Buddy tape is what I used in the video (got it on Amazon). It costs more but is regarded a little higher.
Great video, great tutorial! Do you happen to sell cuttings or plants ?
Thanks! I sold cuttings in January but don't have any more to sell now. I will again next January. I will have rooted fig plants available in March on my etsy store--www.etsy.com/shop/EnlightenmentGarden
Do you have plants for sale?
Not at the moment. We had a very cold Winter this year. I will have some 1 gallon fig plants on my store in April but they are not ready yet.
Do you have a web site to sell trees?
Yes--www.etsy.com/shop/EnlightenmentGarden. January is when I sell fig cuttings. I periodically sell frankincense plants (but sell out fast) and should have some rooted fig trees at the end of this month up